In ten years ago, I did not know this place Pingyao. About its memory, as opposed to Suzhou, Lijiang and other places, in fact, started very late, almost to the university only two years after, when the wave of the traveling wave of those who returned from a four, the total could eventually finding to hear about it things, walls, streets, houses, city floor ... ... their description of me always thought that the ink only in the pages exist in the middle of incense into real fortresses. I look forward to, along with those of sporadic growth in the quoted 1.1 points - in particular, from the south to Beijing, to narrow the distance between people suddenly - the kind of the starting impulse is increasingly out of control, my Pingyao journey, so hours in this peaceful take place in early summer.
The whole trip, take the road all the way no words. Pingyao is the evening. Station where the new city without even the peculiarities of a station is not large square in front, blocks a few buildings is not very high buildings. Although the sun has been downhill, but still hot air blowing and stirring up the dust, filled the town's mid-air, taking a little Dry soil smell, distant passers-by and thus do not see the shadow real, some imaginary, as I feelings of the moment I do not know whether it is well into the preparation of Pingyao. No Huiguo Shen by immediately arrested people had gathered around looking for customers to pull, etc. I go to the ancient city. Also do not have to start thinking about the case, you can walk around their own, seeing more people get more Chung, Chattering and go hand in hand, lift knee a few steps away did not seem to have become the movie's leading Sa Yazi Mile Forrest Gump, no matter whether matter whether is called a storage battery car bar. Fortunately, this little episode did not affect my mood down, the only concern is caused by too many tourists will - want to come is also interesting, while she thought to be a hearty, "Xiuse" on the one hand it does not allow other people to "encroach" such exclusive psychological, almost par with the love of the human. West along the ancient city walls, a moment they arrive at the west gate, from the openings to cross, that into the "City" in awareness, an unprecedented strong, not as to other cities (even if there is a wall of Xi'an, Nanjing), just think By only.
Evening daylight is gradually dispersed the darkness of night in the ancient city filled bit by bit over the West Street on both sides pay attention to a little inn, restaurants have to hang lanterns will illuminate the front of its own font quintana-clear, Yuguang invested in uneven slate the streets, so that little bit of polished stone reflecting the cold-hui, like countless eyes, looking at the body surface of these divergent Da footsteps stepping on people. The ancient city where the hustle and bustle during the day with a vigor of its inertia, but also extended a little into the night, still there are a lot of pedestrians, while visiting the look, prompting both sides of the store could not help but another burst of a yell, jump the queue stays, one should be evil; pasta pastry shop placed directly on the front of the store Taner, there are several varieties of fragrant, while the bike is forced to walk through the streets ringing bells, when tight slowly, and looked at the pedestrian out of the way of the gap; Ganqiao again to a pull coal cars, they created a minute later the traffic jam, and so on to let Jean, and the Norwegian's Norwegian, and mule driver saying anything of the old man shouted, donkeys children Mianbugaise, drip drip Tuk Tuk calmly pulling coal cars to go.
Turn the two blocks, finding good accommodation. Then taken out of the sky is already black, and the activities of Heaven and Earth as a huge set, I just my own eyes the markets slowly being evacuated to the background tinsel, and all like the flow of water, scattered omitted. Pingyao quiet down, and occasionally heard some door panels store, issued a clear sound. Everything attributed to silence, even the air of dust seems to have much less, standing inside the middle of the street south gate, Pingyao outline of the night began to clear, large and small font size signs, Jiu Qi, etc., but also the convergence of the sun where aggressive merchants gas, combined with the Shen Yuan walls, emitting a long familiar atmosphere. For the memories of the past, we increasingly rely on search from the written word, but the stagger of the buzz and is fascinated by the night, I found that Pingyao is best written chapters.
This chapter is carefully written part of the walls of Pingyao. Night waking, through the whitewash again greet visitors to the Ming and Qing Street, the north is Main Street East, to its end is the city's East Gate. East Gate City, who rarely posted on several of our people standing on top, so walking along the wall looking as though he has become the past when the value of inspections Shizu. However, this Embrasure has no flags fluttering outside, Jin Ge iron railings, the city is a quiet scene Enron: those who mottle is still a complete quadrangles under the tree looked intently to see the old and young chess, loess children traveled alley house or a woman ... ... the present authentic picture of life, as the time of metamorphosis of the whisk, to give the offensive and defensive wall into a full-Sisha distant memory. Central China since ancient times more than the war, when the northern plateau horse national Huige south, winds showers general, the walls of the use, within the walls is no more than a mere 1:00 to take the defensive side of the resist Bale; a real solution in my view, not hoplite, cavalry , they are not walls, but it is during this period of the legend on the wall. Pingyao's city walls is reported, there are Embrasure 3000, watch tower 72, are combined in the 3000 disciples of Confucius, sage 72 of the number. Is it really true, I would like to not have to go down them one by one, so to say, more is made clear the strength of a culture - think about how many Central Plains of the successive use of force, Xi Cheng Han customs, gradually been here assimilation of civilization and eventually combined into one, into this piece of land. Began in the Western Zhou Dynasty, Pingyao city wall, built by the military can be considered after the flames, but it is when the thorough understanding expeditions things Yanwuxiuwen to Confucian disciples onto the past is indeed a no way to be the entrance exam.
I would not help remember the Golden City, passing the church before the accident. Because it is Sunday morning, just a mass. Have seen a number of western learning things, from the end of the Ming, Shanxi is the rapid spread of the Catholic areas (there are believers Pingyao south puzhou Han Han), but in this church inside, a number of details, was really interesting. The most used in the West, to the number of portraits of Christ Church of the middle of the couplets on both sides, I remember not very accurate, seems to be such a 2:
The Gospel of Christ the world is God's mantra of mass 10000 mass China early in the morning to do a lot of people, as late as even a few can only be outside. Worship is our rows and rows have been sitting in the benches, but here is a bit different, a few rows behind the believers are kneeling prayer, if it was not such an environment, would be delighted similar to the traditional Chinese festival ancestors or Buddha scenes. Far to the Catholic, though peacefully go beyond the walls of Pingyao, where a foothold now, but was witness to this mass with Chinese characteristics, I understand what is regarded as the collision of different cultures. In order to better chanting monks from outside, even in the face of some of the decline of the Central Plains forces still had to make some compromises. In fact, the decline of our culture that may not be correct, at least with my own pessimistic, but the people in Pingyao people gave me the face of a hit, as came to those courtyard courtyard at the top also question some of the "Jyuren" , "Deese", "Corning" and other words of statecraft, such as the Meiyu Jian distributed pedantic, clearly makes you feel kind of the same strain and the endless vitality.
Pingyao to talk about a number of votes. Deng wall if it is nostalgia, then visit the Rishengchang is entirely directed at the business year Shanxi myth. Ticket number is located in West Street, is a three-yard quite complete, non-branded Rishengchang the name of the head is quite common class in a wealthy town Zhaizi, no significant mountain will not dew, subtle convergence. Not immersive, before I heard about it a lot of praise, such as the administration's first open joint-stock first of its kind, separation of ownership and management, ticket numbers linked to business and personal interests, etc.; now on the ground around and watching while listening to , almost 11 confirmed, for the year's steward Ray Lu-tai its people, his vision, courage, and began to have a clearer impression.
After Lei Lu Taihe his successor of painstaking efforts, as well as ticket numbers Rishengchang industry's peak, you may be able to summon wind and rain once it comes to the point where the image to be an analogy, this article might be called the West Street end of the Qing's "Wall Street" . However, I do not want to repeat it once again had a brilliant, because in this compound, despite the birth of a "Land of Wealth" in the consortia, but I feel more lonely, not admired. This is so because I see Rishengchang is not a modern enterprise, which grew out of farming moneybags, treasurer, man, in the operating profits, they have smart, and modern business is no different; but for the hand silver, small-peasant mentality that they are driven to buy a house of their home, the wife concubinage, guarding a large garden deep Zhaizi their own entertainment. In addition, that is, make elite, long-term "heavy agriculture and light industry" to bring them into a kind of early innate inferiority traders (in fact even greater than the early traders), climbing on the nobility, six officials, get a paper Patent life, handwritten, etc., be considered good and bad into the body in the gentry elite, and, collusion, Pong on a patron, no need to worry do not come more silver?
From the Tao-kuang period to the early Republican era, the situation between the time when it will, change continuously, led to Rishengchang number of votes, there was much chance for reborn, to expand their strength and become a true sense of the finance and banking. Unfortunately, such a long time, only to ticket numbers have been growing in Shanxi litter only when there is a huge vote No. manager Li Wei-ling. This new breed of people argued for the reorganization of the province's major banks, Allied vote in order to counter the growing number of foreign commercial capital of banks. Helpless one person around, after all, difficult to complete the matter. Enclosed in conservative inner circle, holding towards the tomb of the Qing court's thigh, then wait for the consortium, only sadly out fate. The silver shining white water poured into Pingyao City in general, but also diffuse to the water in general, nothing left. So, really to say that the benefit of Xiang Zi, Deese future generations, I Nantong, Zhang Jian have a deeper respect.
Rush a tour, not a wish to melancholy under discussion actually given birth to so many. Pingyao is a good place.
Author: eric_cj
