From Zhongdian via Tiger Leaping Gorge, Haba Snow Mountain to the next, and then on foot against the Jinsha River Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan is the most important section of the Northwest tour. Tiger Leaping Gorge - Yangtze River rafting team a starting point for the next drift.
Here, I would like to introduce my friends and our Tiger Leaping Gorge Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot walking route: According to the information presented, divided into the Tiger Leaping Gorge Tiger Leaping Gorge, in the Tiger Leaping Gorge, the next Tiger Leaping Gorge, full 30 km , Canyon Haba Snow Mountains on one side, one side is the Yulong Snow Mountain, the Jinsha River has been hijacked one of them, the river narrowest point only 30 meters wide, but also stands firmly in the central river rock - tiger jumped stone, to form a natural risk The Department must. We plan to Tiger Leaping Gorge from the bottom at the entrance to riverside village, that is, the Jinsha River Tiger Leaping Gorge, at the exit of the entire river on foot began to reverse in the evening in the Tiger Leaping Gorge Hetaoyuan places the next day an early start, arriving at noon from the tiger fight Gap jump the bridge in the town of 9 km to complete this journey.
August 13 evening, we are in the passenger terminal in Zhongdian county diagonally opposite to the price of 700 yuan to rent a Toyota cruiser. The driver name is Pan, Tibetan guy, 40 years old, middle one, Founder of "fields" characters face, skin color than black, looks kind-hearted and realistic driving experience nearly 20 years. We have an appointment tomorrow with the drivers, hotel door early in the morning 6:00 to eternal life, to meet catch an early walk, he will be home telephone numbers and pager numbers left to us.
The so-called us, me and a woman named Lu Yang of Guangzhou.
I was in Kunming, August 5 for the first time saw her, when I fly to Kunming, playmate SARA with his wife over the phone with her about a car terminal in order to perfect mountain climbing. Each other because of our on-line to build the organization joined the CTRIP.COM pond before contact on the trip. Four individuals with a tour of Dali, but also accompanying listened to the ancient Lijiang Naxi ancient music to enjoy the Meili Snow Mountain in the fog, got a taste of Shangri-La, after the Grand Canyon of the deep, now temporarily separated, I and Lu Yang to go on foot tiger jump Gap, SARA his wife first went to Lijiang and Lijiang waiting for us to the mysterious daughter of a country - Lugu Lake.
6:15 am the next morning, I and Lu Yang have the whole bag into the car like a good, set out.
Car walk through the streets, can not see the other pedestrians and vehicles, only if we are the voice of the car hitting the plateau on the ancient little town, through dawn Qinglie air. At this time, we can see the eastern horizon, appearing slightly brighter day Tuobo peak near upright and silent, despite the dim figure, but I know that she keep looking at their homes. Her highest point is a devout Tibetan people, stacked stone formed on the base, and then plug in the wind streamer hung horse flags, according to Tibetan introduction, every breeze blowing, and the waving of the streamer with a loud noise, Just read it again for their sixth mantra. Breeze forever, and sincerely forever.
Dealers half an hour, we are far away from Zhongdian County, and slowly into the mountains, when the sky has been brighter, you can see both sides of the road cattle horses, they are green grassy meadow on a leisurely way to eat the grass, and the most attractive is wearing long hair of the yak when you reach for the camera and casually Kacha few are human beauty.
Soon, we have driving on the winding mountain road, according to the driver introduction, from Zhongdian to our destination dealers riverside village, about 180 kilometers, if all goes well, can reach about 12 o'clock, half-way we will go through the Naxi Dongba culture, the birthplace - baishuitai, but we do not intend to stay straight through.
Jeep in the mountains on the road steadily forward, do not know how much climbing peaks and do not know how many corner Po, when the elevation reaches a very high Mountains Pass, the driver stopped the car by the roadside, telling We here can see the peak of the Haba Snow Mountain, today's weather, if passed here, after a foot of the mountain when you most likely can not see anything. So we have to get off time is 8:10 pm.
I and Lu Yang, each finding a suitable position became firmly established, to the distance overlooks the throngs of solemn Haba snow-capped mountains, snow-capped cover the whole mountain top, the hill section of the following is a dun mountain, then down is the boundless surging with boundless sea of clouds, clouds extending to our nearby mountains standing until fade. This scene was like a person from a large white hada half drilled in his head, his head still wore hada. YANG Lu said that this person must Xu, otherwise who would so many black faces!
Early morning sky clouds thin, exposing one has a blue sky, the sun from the clouds the gap in the shed, so you can see golden yellow, orange-red clouds dotted in white, light cyan into the sea of clouds, snow-capped mountains bring out more and more to the mystery and sanctity. Tibetan people's right to associate pay homage to the Buddha, I do not know human nature is subject to probation, or probation of human nature, so that the two so from the outside to the inner harmony. Through the eyes of Tibetans, I can feel their minds quiet, when they are around the bonfire, jump Guozhuang lively dance, the dance rhythms with a strong body, loud high-pitched clear more of the female vocal and forceful male cavity one after another, you to be quiet to hear, they do not feel that this is a sad place, only the blue sky, tall snow-capped mountains, green grassy meadow and scattered between heaven and earth horses cattle and sheep. Here away from the hustle and bustle of the city with the glitz, the real purification of the mind of your place, here called the Shangri-La.
YANG Lu began to greet breakfast backpack from the car the night before we took out some of the prepared bread, yogurt, jelly and so on, three individuals hastily opened to eat. Suddenly, YANG Lu holding a can of flexible packaging yogurt at me and asks:
, "How do you buy, so far away from Guangdong, the Guangzhou also bought a yogurt?"
I scan the hands of the box, yes, is produced in Guangzhou.
"Do you know where the local cattle in the alpine forests would be eating a lot of Chinese Caterpillar Fungus?" Lu Yang went on to ask.
"I know, but there may be pine mushroom." I added.
"I know why not buy local?" Started hanging face cream.
"I ran into that wife and children the supermarket, shelves, put a lot of dairy products, but I do not see any one local dairy, they readily took a few cans." Night time is very tight, so I to defend themselves.
"Really do not cow?"
"Flight attendants were careless," said
"Not only careless, and may even cattle were lost." I am sure the answer.
"... ..." She puzzled face.
"Supermarket was just as big, if there are cattle, I do not see the first, but also do not see the tail." I added.
"Legitimate," finished, she had several more cough.
"But I think you seem to have problems," I looked at Lu Yang.
"Me? A problem?" Looked totally bewildered.
"Is not your supermarket stealing cattle,"
"How do I steal other people's cattle, you have less slander people, and cattle there?"
"In your heart," I hint to her chest.
Shocked for a while, YANG Lu then come to understand, his eyes reveal a smile, they say "You're such a person really shameless!" Ba Touniu to one side.
Along the way, Shuiyuexiaoxiao unconsciously after baishuitai, 10 points more, our cars have been stopped at the foot of the Haba Haba Snow Mountain village. Miss Yang Lu is Ctrip "Insider" section of experts, so she Everywhere will carefully consider the routes of local travel, accommodation conditions, transportation, fees, etc. 11 he gave clear and recorded. Haba Snow Mountain is an excellent tourist destination, there is the Black Sea and other Haizi Yamashita, Haba Village is a tour of the rest, and thus we get off to get acquainted with the tourist information.
Side of the road there is a small inn, the owner of the room warm areas we visited, 10 yuan a bed, the primitive and poor hygienic conditions. 300 meters away from the village there is a "Haba Snow Mountain hotel" in the side of the road we have to an old lady dressed in Hmong clothes ask for directions, and she just has to go over there. The old lady sandwiched left arm following a big rooster, rooster's head was trapped behind, its tail curled directed at the previous high in long, colorful feathers because of walking up and down swing. Quickly into the hotel there is a wall hanging, "Zhongdian County Tourism Bureau designated foreign-related hotel" signs.
A hotel, a typical Naxi houses in the middle is a big courtyard surrounded by houses all the wooden structure. Elsewhere to come back soon boss greet customers, YANG Lu told her that we are to understand the situation and did not stay, but it can be learned information to the other to come here and play for friends. The proprietress is very straightforward and took us to visit the rooms, public shower rooms, and so throughout, the overall impression of much better than the previous one, the price a little expensive. When heard that we go to Tiger Leaping Gorge, she told us on the road in front of a large landslide at a few days, not commissioned. At that time. I have a cool mind, thinking that we could go home from here, would not be wasted! But the boss said that she was old groom (husband) is the local doctor, also responsible for managing the road workers may be able to help to us, then, quickly told the old man sent for her groom to come back.
The proprietress is enthusiastically invited us to a restaurant Quzuo, in fact, is also the owner of the restaurant kitchen, inside stove, fireplace, and two square table may be firewood reasons, very black smoke all around. Through the proprietress of the introduction, we know that Haba Village is an administrative village, by a few Miao, Naxi, Han, Yi villages composed of different ethnic groups coexist in harmony. Her husband and wife are the Naxi, the hotel bar where the village is called Gollum, Guangdong tourists often come to stay, she can arrange for horses, tents, camping, etc. so that visitors to the Black Sea. Chat not long after, she came back the old groom, 30 years of age, tall, tall, heard that we have to go through cave sections, the soon from a "word of the Field," on the torn page of paper to write a paragraph of text after the and handed me, and said that in the road, road workers, when they are responsible for the note to the person on the list. I carefully folded the note on the pocket, and my heart quietly pray that I get is an open sword every mountain. In order to save time, we say good-bye to the host.
Got on, we have a brief introduction to the driver about road landslides, he also knew that the villagers had just asked around, I had two of them had to explain my concerns, this note useful do? They say time Kanba. Car about 5 minutes away and began to enter halfway up the mountain road, one can see inside the top of the road by landslides over the traces everywhere, a short while we had to face came six carrying picks the guy, I guess that is of those road workers, when the car stopped near them, I ask them who is responsible, and handed them a note went up to the Han dynasty, tell him that we go to riverside village, ask them to help repair a Road repair period of landslides. Read the note, Erhuamoshui, as soon as he is the head of yo drink, open the door, six individuals all squeezed into the carriage. Will soon open to the cave at a car. All of them walked off the chaotic collapse rubble beside the road about 6 meters wide, completely covered with stones tumbled down, I expect landslides down the stone can be a Gold Cup 12 of the van the entire submerged. Looked down from the side of the road, about 70 ℃ until the bottom of the steep slope, at least 400 meters above the slope are all large and small, shining white rocks, and the surrounding green mountains in sharp contrast, startling and shocking. The main reason is the original road is estimated that demolition of a mountain, resulting in loose rock and then there is no reinforcement measures to encounter heavy rain, the wind is strong weather could collapse at any time down. Rise to the point of view, the Department has more than 20 meters high had fallen into a lot of concave, resulting in even higher at the rock has lost support when would it fall? Who does not know, maybe it is now.
I road workers 1, in the finishing of that pile of stones at the central road, hoping to put together in a pile of stones above 2 meters wide, relatively flat surface, so that the jeep washed from above in the past, this is the only a quick way through, if we put all the stones on the road have to move out, at least be a week. Fortunately, the workers have been so processed 3 days, because they are already found in the boulders lying in middle of the road, that is, carry 10 people, but also must not think of moving, only the use of explosives in order to clean up after shattering. I washed the car can have confidence in the past. About 10 minutes later, the driver began to move toward the rubble mound Pan launched sprint back and forth three times, due to tire slippage caused by loose stones, came back with nothing. I also carry a number of workers to re-also carry a large rubble mound of surface treatment. YANG Lu workers out bottles of water to drink, while the driver picked up the Pan tool, the car changed from 2-wheel drive 4-wheel drive. About 15 minutes later, the PAN driver to prepare a new round of sprint.
YANG Lu across the rubble early, reach for camera, to shoot scenes of this extreme adventure down, I also crossed the rubble, watching preparations for sprint car. I do not know of tension or a strong midday sun's sake, me non-stop sweating, Lu Yang asked me not to pay the workers some money, I think the wrong that they do not come as a reward, but do not want to spend some money to pollution of their purity, I do not know how my friends think you are?
Car has been launched, and go full steam ahead, Growl rushed forward towards the rubble mound height, four wheel like an old ox's foot, slowly moving, but also stop breathing heavily. Body dramatic swing, people worried look at the car went to peek into the road below the rugged slope. The hysteria after a brief struggle, Che finally climbed the highest point of the rubble! We are greatly relieved, down from a height much better, and soon cars have a smooth sail flat road, and we all cheered everyone up. I thank the workers ran fate, they are simple and honest in the smile, I told the person in charge goes on proposed note as a souvenir, he was taking from his pocket and gave it to me. Got on, we pay tribute to the workers, farewell, and they all watched us, the sun, I noticed the sweat on their heads. Good-bye, simple people, your kindness, enthusiasm would make me never forget, I sincerely wish you a happy life.
After this period, the road ahead is unlikely to have any obstacles, and small landslides have a lot of, can easily route around them. The car, my doctor's note will be launched, the above is written this way:
They are my friends, to help repair the roads pass, so that their car in the past.
Wo × ×
I only remember the doctor's name, and note I have already handed over to Lu Yang reserved. This is something me and Lu Yang are feeling: If we do not record information on hotels, if we just be satisfied with a record of information, it may not be the Bao-Gui Zhang's note, we may face in the rock for home . A small well-intentioned idea, so soon to be a genuine return on the Buddhist theory of causality of good and evil spirits really read.
About 12:00 minutes, we crossed the one peak, eyes suddenly see the light, looking ahead, a good big one foot of the mountain Bazi! Green Bazi, a yellow ribbon has been divided into two parts, the foot side of the Bazi, is part of Zhongdian County, riverside village across the river should be that big a town of Lijiang. Natiao Yellow Ribbon is the Jinsha River, one can clearly see that by winding out of a canyon, it must be exported under the Tiger Leaping Gorge, which is the starting point of our walk.
Car winding down, and soon reached the foot of the village, The strange thing is when the car through the village, went so far do not see one person, rows of cottages like uninhabited, Pan driver to see our doubts, we talk about played this one thing: a few years ago, not far from this valley there was a large landslide, the entire village was flooded, but fortunately casualties are not large, the Government has set a sum of money paid, and the selected piece of flat Bazi, unified planning, and built this piece housing and a primary school premises free of charge to those affected by the use of the refugees, but, a few years later, no one to live here, the results here become a no man's land, where the reasons for Pan drivers do not know. We were looking for someone to ask where the horses can be rented in order to walk, the horses can help us pack luggage, but the deadly silence of the place, reminiscent of Liao Zhai story, even in broad daylight, it scared people to heart.
The distance the foot side of the road there are several buildings farmhouse, it should be inhabited. Car ahead, turn right onto the road along the river, drivers say this road linking the Tiger Leaping Gorge, but frequent landslides, roads are mostly not make sense. We are a milestone in the 30 km to see a little girl, about 7 years old, Pan driver to stop the car, asked girls to use dialect, there are no horses, the girl said she sent for her mother came to, they crossed the road, the monastery's farm run去. The midday sun was very drying people, YANG Lu took out sunscreen to the face, painted a thick layer looks shiny shiny. Way to lead her sunscreen, and I painted his face and a thick layer, because the naked long-sleeved clothing, two arms are impeccably cleaned and shiny, and Lu Yang said that sunscreen is a French brand, expensive, and If so, then painted some more, then coated again, pained her to Wawataijiao, Fan Baiyan straight at me, I denounced the "shameless." Face painted with so much, Zuidu was stuck, "the shameless tooth" is also true that I do not mind it!
Well, not afraid of the sun, and I can pad around the telescope has looked. The Jinsha River in front of the surface not in Bazi torrent, but the surface is deeply carved a few tens of meters deep ditch, in the ditch channeling line, appears to restrain unruly Ao. North Korea Xiakou looked, a road a few hundred meters away from the height of the river bend in. The mountain valley was interlocking shape, line of sight can not reach too far.
At this time, the hillside little girl led her mother to greet us, want us to go up with them. Soon, we came to her home, three wooden house, showing her family was better, a dog from us there, we have been moving in our barking, the owner can check; a bright red crest of the big head cock seems to be particularly "majestic Britain issued" hold our heads up in the yard, YANG Lu praised it, admired incessantly, saying that "only the side of the cock was like a cock! home over there can also be known as the cock!!." I, too, but reminiscent of the newspaper often referred to as "China's men gone" argument, I feel very comfortable. Girl's mother, early 30s, it seems as if more than 40, she led us to her home kitchen. Log Dacheng independent a low room, inside and outside are very dark and smoke, the door is a big hearths, messy places where large wok filled with unwashed bowls and chopsticks scoop and so on, the door on the right there is a fireplace Cheung Wai in the four weeks of the bench, hostess warmly invited us to eat lunch at her home, and then she was ready to boil the water out of firewood. We would have wanted to experience life in the mountain home, but see the Full House flies lively dance dance to, it was decided not to eat here, they must go out to find the hostess, asking rent horses do. She said she was an old herdsman brought firewood in the mountains with a caravan, and soon came back, and wants us to wait for a while. We talked about everyday matters hitches a ride with her, she said her family is a Naxi, named Wo (we call her A Wo bar), she is a married come from the Haba village side, there are a son, a daughter, and so on, The driver asks Gap does not pass within the opening of A Wo said, because of which there were several landslides have been commissioned for several months. Then from the mountain rains caravan faint voice issued by the bells, she said she returned the old herdsman, and soon, we saw a lanky frame Jingzhuang the guy, led six Tuozhao Dry wood horse back, girls to help remove the firewood, with her old groom mention the things that we rent horses, man of the house to speak in of 100 yuan / day, this price including the driver think that's too expensive, we have proposed to the 80 yuan / day ( Haba rent in the village had asked the horse at a reasonable price shall be as follows: 60 yuan / day), but finally nodded his head before deciding on the hostess down, in line with the traditional Naxi women homemakers. She agreed with her, etc. After lunch on the departure, and then we backtrack 3 on the car side, come up with dry food, water, regarded as Chinese food. After dinner, YANG Lu put the money to the rental of 700 yuan a driver to join us in the three backpack taken down from the car, in which the smallest backpack to use at any time to put the two items, such as: food, water, medicines and so on, by my carrying the other two larger backpack away from the horse Tuozhao. Soon, Ah Wo holding a horse down the driver to help the two tied in the saddle bag, and then we bid farewell to Jiugen, he was to backtrack, despite more than we do know that the driver line, we still remind him of Guo landslides Department must be careful when he asked us: when the board had talc eyes, the head of the cliff towards the adoption as soon as possible. This guy quickly jumped on the Tibetan honest car, turned around the front, waved his hand, a step on the gas, running away with the.
Time is 1:15 pm, we have started a foot.