June 19: Old Town of Lijiang Qingchenwudian I woke up, looked at the car window daybreak the scene: paddy fields, distant farms, a more distant blue mountains, as well as slightly blue sky background with one of a very quiet scenery. Dali, Lijiang area of relatively flat topography, open, fit for human habitat, many people in this propagation, becoming the past, "Caiyunzhinan" wild land in an oasis, Tibetan-Chinese economic and cultural exchanges as an important connection point in human history on a variety of civilizations are never forgotten here, leaving a footprint.
The scenery outside the window so I began looking forward to be able to revisit the past, take long trips to Penang on the way to see the village morning scene: the same is the blue of the distant hills and micro-blue backdrop as the background, village rises curl morning mist, it is like exposure to art throughout, beautiful rural scenery. . . . . . Unfortunately, this hope, the clock reached 7:00, cars moved into the county seat of Lijiang.
Our package Iveco has stopped at the station waiting for us. This failure of the sale has been very really let me ashamed: there is one to Kunming travel agents and chartered packages Mission Contact us something, I was ready to Lijiang was chartered after, but the matter of 12 persons Run is indeed a great one their minds, always keep an earlier peace of mind the idea of setting properly earlier, once the other party is given nine days of the 8000 offer, calculate with the budget is similar to the activities of the mind also - in fact, I made budgets are based on worst-case scenario to develop, so the budget too high - the last on the agreed down. Only later did I know: this car actually is a personal contract, and the driver Liu master eventually only got 6000, and the remaining 2000 were in Kunming, Lijiang, two travel agencies and tour bus driver where the service company divided, and if chartered directly to the driver if you can save a lot of money (of course this is also wise after the event, because we do not know how to find such a car).
Our driver is called Master Liu Yong, a husky fellow, the following 10 days, there are a lot of stories, there are special features on the future, not to mention here, for the time being pressed. Handlebar send us to the ancient city entrance, we started carrying a backpack trip to Lijiang.
Lijiang say more specific is the ancient town of Lijiang County, in fact, originally called should be called Dayan Town, which for example, hey a Shengping town became the county seat after Deqin County, called Deqin slowly, but No one called it the original names.
Dayan Naxi town is a stronghold, is their cultural center for the equivalent of Dali Bai status. Naxi is the Qiang 1, the original area of Sichuan and Shaanxi activities, the Eastern Han Dynasty replaced the Huns Qiang's position as the Han Chinese border on the greatest enemy of the Han dynasty to a large number of troops deployed in the north-west, repeatedly wipe Qiang - Sima Yi Sima's grandfather is right Qiang anti-war exploits achieved - at the same time warlords formed the expansion of the Northwest: Dong Zhuo was originally one of a nobody Longxi Lintao, relying on the gradual formation of the Northwest Qiang military exploit the region's most powerful military bloc, and finally wait until the Yellow Turban Rebellion this opportunity to pass through customs loyalist, and further to seize the central power; Dong Zhuo's east to north-west left a power vacuum, Han Qiang Ma took the opportunity to fill the mixed blood of this vacuum, and Cao Cao was a long time to become a unified country south Zhi elbow strength. Han busy with internal strife during this period, no time to West Gu, thus providing the conditions to flourish Qiang - Qiang in the Eastern Han Dynasty had already dying - and so to the Wei, Shu and the tug of war for forty years in the Longxi, the Qiang people to become The two sides compete for a strong military power, is obvious that the extent of its strong.
Western Jin Dynasty after the unification of China, Qiang Han Dynasty because of the long-term coexistence, long time no disputes with each other fairly peaceful, but unfortunately only for two Western Jin Dynasty King World have 8 chaos, the barbarians have included founding the previous form of the tragic situation of the barbarian invasions of China . Qiang naturally unwilling, separatism Qinlong area, but also out of a famous military strategist Yao-hsiang, is that it is untimely, was out of one than he Genghen the Former Qin Fu Jian break, destroy the country who are dead. Fortunately, Fu Jian, comfort has always been alien, and finally did not eliminate post-Ran Min Zhao-style ethnic cleansing; but Yao Chang Yao-hsiang's brother, it was a wild ambition of the people, Fu Jian save his life, but also promoted his charge of military power, he had to take advantage of Fu Jian Fei River water, established after the defeat of the state Later Qin Qiang - Former Qin from the date of the country like the same as if the successor is a perfectly justifiable in general - and a death sentence for Fu Kin Sang Sang. His grandson, Yao Hong, the Eastern Jin Dynasty generals Liu Yu the Northern Expedition, smoothly eliminate the Later Qin. This is pretty pretty good, after all, very few people like Ran Min Han ethnic cleansing as the habit of the Qiang people live their lives fairly reported; However, when Liu Yu anxious to go back and seize power left Chang'an, the Helianbobo Xiongnu led by Sheng Xu Entering, the situation is quite different.
If Yao Xiang, Fu Jian, a hero, Yao Chang was Jianxiong, then Helianbobo be described as fierce and ambitious generation. He has never needed to fight back, hitting where where to grab. He has built Tongwan City, Yi Zhang walls of each contract to a worker, ordered the soldiers after the completion of the wall with the spear stab, pierce the craftsmen who kill, those who kill the soldiers impervious to thorns, their cruelty so! Such were to break into Chang-an, accounting for 30 years, and Qiang Chang fate can be imagined.
Here to talk about one thing: Helianbobo after the massacre, cut off the heads were very artistic way stacked pyramid-style building, known as the "Skull Taiwan."
Since then, Qiang brought to its knees and never sang on stage in history, what the big show.
Said so much, can generally be inferred: Naxi as Qiang 1, due to the war and the southward migration, the time may be the Eastern Han period, is also possible that the early Southern and Northern Dynasties. I personally feel that is likely to be the former, because then Qiang Han Chinese cultural influence is not affected by the deep, ethnic relatively pure, it can feel the Dongba culture of Naxi.
Naxi Longxi along the western Sichuan, the Tibetan side of front-line southward, until the foot of Haba Snow Mountain, where water-rich, lush, thus becoming its ultimate goal to form a new nation, baishuitai also become their elite culture - Dongba culture -- originate. After the Naxi continue to move north to reach a small part of Zhongdian, towns and area, most of the southward migration, crossing the Jinsha River, defeating the Pumi and occupied the plains along the Lijiang area, economic patterns are transferred from the traditional nomadic for farming.
The rise of the Naxi from the delicate relations between the Tibetan and the attendant so-called Tea-Horse Road.
Sui and Tang dynasties, the rise of Tubo, Tubo, according to the time in Tibet, Qinghai, according to Tuyuhun. Tuyuhun was Hou sets, Li Jing Tang led expeditionary force fought Mandizhaoya, around the Qinghai Lake, xingxiu hai Mile, finally the whole nation Qing Jiang. Tubo have Tuyuhun as barriers without food to the Tang Dynasty loss, but take the opportunity to get rid of the dying Tuyuhun control of the Qinghai-Tibet. Tibetan brothers around the waist was also surrounded by animal skins, and Tangjun never dealt with successive I best in the world has quite the panache, and later at the border a few battles on the small scale and found that it is monolithic, that kind of feeling and large Japanese Imperial Army in the Far East Army Novo threshold Zhukov who hit exactly the same feeling of a badly beaten. Since then, Tibetan and Chinese people did not dare to fight big battles, only taking advantage of China's Shi Rebellion and the subsequent chaos of rival principalities of the western border to keep the encroaching expansion of the Tang Dynasty, Chang'an was once broken, and later also acted in Pingliang Golden Beach planes will be a class of play, fake alliance really laid an ambush for Khitan originator.
Fortunately, a few of the Indians nothing to do for the introduction of Buddhism in Tibet, the Tibetan spiritual opium from smoking, otherwise the Five Dynasties period, China's civil strife, the armed forces of the Northern Song Dynasty decadent, Sichuan and Shaanxi-Gansu Gansu back all the non-Han Chinese, and India also do not return to to the mercy of people or Mongolians.
Although the infinite matter, but can be described as Sino-Tibetan grievances have been Depth: Han Cutting memorable Tibetan cavalry repeatedly in trouble, full of painful memories Seogui Jinbo their children, but also afraid of the Tibetan psyche of the powerful prowess; Tibetans and needs the Chinese production of a variety of materials, but also understand their own cavalry could not break up the Han brick stone fortress, but can not conquer a higher culture of the Han nationality, once unified the Central Plains will never be wealthy and strong country own the Han Chinese rivals. Both sides is in this ambivalence of continuous curing of the mutual hatred and fear.
Political stand-off can not be severed economic exchanges. The geographical conditions of Tibet determine its backward productive forces and production, decided he needed a steady flow of supplies from outside input. West Tibet, mountains, desert north, east, although some flat, but it is facing the arid northwest China, only the south of Sichuan, Yunnan, you can enter, which are both fertile land, there are a large number of surplus goods through exports. Tibetan people and very difficult to deal with each other, in that all the conditions under which a so-called tea-horse ancient road have come into being: the Chinese to tea, silk and cloth sold Naxi Ren's caravan, caravans lasted more than six months to supply goods along the The Yunnan-Tibet Highway is now transported to Lhasa line, and then replaced by horses, fur and other local specialty, hands back to the Han to sell and profit from. Naxi Ren as a broker, as the ancient Arabic, or modern Hong Kong, Singapore, the role of natural lucrative, large study from the ancient city as the Tea-Horse Road is also an important part of the prominent up.
Dayan old city entrance is quite impressive: a white marble of the screen wall. Jiang's inscription engraved above the core of the "World Heritage Old Town of Lijiang"; next to gurgling water, water hobble around in three or four tall waterwheel, probably a symbol of "hard-working and courageous people of Naxi perennial"; water are bridges, call to Yulong Bridge, across the bridge is a relief, showing Naxi God-given sight of bumper grain harvest of men and women, next to the Old Town of Lijiang as a world cultural heritage, the introduction text.
Into the old city, and we went straight to the ancient city of pre-booked room youth hostel. Hotel is located in Mississippi Lane, Xinyi Street, from the ancient city close to the entrance, walk about five minutes. Does the hotel have laundry facilities, network equipment, it is a good spot along the river bar, full of travel books, chess magazines, of course, very clean bathroom - toilet, but a big topic, after slowly that - in short, is a typical . . 不. . The ideal youth hostel. We lived eight humans, is only 15 yuan per bed per night only, the whole journey in the cheapest prices, one of two hotels (the other is Daocheng County, Sichuan Electric beads family hotel, a very warm place 。。。。。 . wait until after Syria).
In the famous Moso girl Xiaojuan's help we will soon pick up Tingdang and began walking the ancient city.
Lijiang signs of water. The water comes from the foot of Heilongtan Yuquan, into the city was divided into three large tankers, the city cut into four. In any one place in the city, can be upstream to the city entrance, down the river is deep inside the ancient city. Currents were very eager and gurgling sound, water is never stale, Ching Kam people can be. Lijiang residents also heard that there is an agreement voluntarily: Kaleidoscope, or wash my tassels, or wash my feet, there are time slots. So, regardless of upstream or downstream residents, clean clear water all year round Jieyou available.
Shop streaky ancient stone streets, stone bridge frame. Walked the famous stone bridge is a great place to eat good, we are here to try the Lijiang Naxi Baba and bread, in fact they are the same material, but the former with the fried, the latter Braised water. Ate any special difference, maybe I naturally do not like the Noodle Bar.
After a large stone bridge is not far away is the Square Street, the city open space just a square, put the lap of the stalls chattering away with all kinds of crafts and bronzes under the sun was very bright. Square Street is said to Lijiang depends on the four faces: the morning vigor, midday popularity, lethargy and even the middle of the night at dusk the nimbus. I am a layman, it will only learn to see someone else's head colored Fan Tseng gas rich gas, then there are the four cardinal vices themselves, really do not see any particular qi Square Street. Maybe back to Singapore after the Falun Dafa may participate more bragging to Master Li to learn, we can release a large lump out of thin air mysteriously empty colorful things the bar.
After a Square Street, find the water's edge is a row of bars, restaurants, and we started from last night, no good to eat, and hunger not, so they are here to eat brunch. Sitting in an open-air tables, listening to the sound of running water, eating Naxi food, feeling really good. Only a number of expensive here, is exactly the same meal twice the Metro side, and later heard that eating here was bargaining in advance, you can cut off half of the past. I am a Nanyang natives, with a group of South Pacific natives, of course, do not know that.
Bean jelly beans eaten a pile of chicken, Lijiang casserole of rice, bought an exquisitely designed, value for money of the six pieces of money, hand-painted map of "Walking Lijiang", we left to the Black Dragon Pool. Black Dragon Pool Park, not far from the city, we were wandering about half an hour also arrived, tickets 20 yuan, there is no student tickets. Is said to 7:00 before the morning exercise for the convenience of local residents, no fees, we do not try; over and over again, said Liu chef can be a little door next to a slipped, and could not confirm.
Back Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Black Dragon Pool, the early spring season, wind blowing gently, water out of fashion, you can see the reflection of the Yulong Snow Mountain. When we went to is now the rainy season, although the day did not rain, cloud cover, after all, fog covers, and even look at the Yulong Snow Mountain is incomplete, much less talk about the reflection in the water. Moreover, the cool breeze blowing and the water rippled continuously on tourists can be described as cool and comfortable, in the mountains of the lake is greatly reduced.
The park has a Dongba temple, built on a hill, on so many points on the road actually let a few attractive men Qiannv big sigh hard, really let me fear that the prospects for the next few days. Into the temple just encountered a "Naxi Dongba the greatest." . . . . . Son, a very kind enough to us about the history of Dongba. Naxi Ren is to use religion to do the original carrier of culture, the Dongba religion is a kind of polytheism, the priests - or monks, the former is more appropriate because they do not out of production, families, and economic life, although the production is completed by women - called Dongba, while serving as the role of academics. Dongba is the person reading the book, that is, those who presided over the ceremony ritual, that is, the intellectuals.
Black Dragon Tan Li worth a visit are: Wufeng Lou, Ming Dynasty architecture, I do not know how to move here, and I do not know how to do is craft; Tak Yuet Lau, Qing Dynasty architecture, was built in the central lake. During the Cultural Revolution, a pair of lovers in this sentimentalism set himself on fire to burn down to an antique, and now the floor is rebuilt. Natives in my eyes seems to arson, suicide is selfish, extremely timid approach, but maybe now the new extreme advocates freedom of the individual human beings who would be the so-called "the pursuit of freedom" unlimited praise, simply does not will consider both of them seeking death would block the freedom of this world are so many people look at this other ancient architectural freedom.
In addition, Black Dragon Pool Park, can also be heard free of Naxi ancient music performances, as we all remembered the night, Lost Horizon, will be under the auspices of ancient music, where just sit on a short leave in a hurry.
Dayan Naxi Ancient Music will be located in Main Street East, played a 8:00 every night, seats were divided into four categories, the first five rows of five row after row of five, as well as side seat, the former three categories of fares 50,40,30, probably cheaper to get a seat. From the perspective of the front row listening to folk music is the best, but this is not wherever he goes, filled with nothing but two to three hundred people, so must rely on the latter point, or sit side seat will not affect too much. We bought the sixth row, that is, votes in the first row, the effect is pretty good.
Naxi Naxi ancient music is not folk music, but the Tang and Song Dynasties, and Taoist hole through music, ancient music, in the Central Plains long Sanyi, did not expect at this border town of fraternal peoples from generation to generation by word of mouth to vanish. More than an hour of Ancient Music will include instrumental ensembles, solo, as well as folk songs solo, can be said to cover the main form of folk music. In addition, the rhetoric is the host of the loose-tongued, Xuan Ke.
Xuan Ke's father is a Naxi Ren and his mother is Tibetan. His father to foreigners arrested when the wizard giant panda, which had learned English and had no small amount of savings, which for the Lost Horizon, the growth process of being a good music, culture and education to create the conditions. However, in 57 years the Chinese Communists in the anti-rightist campaign Purges, Lost Horizon, their family background, India's foreign relations, and remittance transactions involving funds in Taiwan spies were suspected of collaborating with the KMT have been involved. Political struggle is relentless, and Lost Horizon, sitting on this for 21 years in prison. After his release began to study, organize, introduced Naxi ancient music, and the formation of today's situation: every night there four different Lijiang Naxi ancient music performances at home and abroad flocked to a different color of people to listen to Lijiang, China 1500 years ago, Art.
Xuan Ke's chair can be described as fanciful, there is no taboo, one would be ironic swallow the naive one will ridicule the Erhu Principal of the Central Nationalities Orchestra Song Philippine Yaotouhuangnao when performed, and then began to talk about several moments of his friends in the past to those landlords encountered. Although his words are always amused the audience bursts of laughter, which also did for 75 years full of a variety of experiences with the free and easy feeling, but I always have such a feeling:
He said that had won.
Author: stallion
