Meet Wuyuan
Mu kept trained on "China's most beautiful villages" of good reputation, my friends and I came to Wuyuan. Rumbling of the train crashed through hazy night with our drive to it when driving, everything was just imagination and speculation, and even doubt. When we travel-worn set foot on the land in Wuyuan, I discovered that in this noisy world, there is a nostalgic one, such as Xu lies. Bridgestone old house in the quiet of the evening where elaborate historical, flowing curl of smoke in the mid-point of people dyed pale watercolor. Long Street alley next to the horse that the high wall, in the most inconspicuous place Retention past the scene. Our four-day trip I truly lively touch to a Wu-Yuan.
Playing bridge Wuyuan Wuyuan come from far, half is to look at the bridge. As early as heard Wuyuan bridges everywhere, the most famous town where the number of Tsinghua Rainbow Bridge, so we rented from the city of Ziyang Town, Wuyuan County has a Moroccan town of straight Tsinghua. The tractor-plowing road all the way rugged summit toss, buttocks, and is bold enough to bend Bay, a narrow gravel mountain road after another to accept a severe test, I would have been screaming, and oh the way the wind blowing. However, passing in front of a mountain, a Road of water, one by one Daiwa powder wall Aoyama clear water of the village, made me feel as if walking in the ink inside, to forget the fatigue and tension.
Upstream along the thing that catches my eyes the bridge innumerable strange things. Or a bridge or quartzite bridge, attached the two sides of lush grass under the bridge is a matter of Sha Chau and Fang Dian, hanging tree branches along the river, under a tree or walk or Bantang of cattle and sheep, ducks around half-naked old roots find it a pleasure playing in the water, green moss and aquatic plants in the underwater swagger. Villagers to Taguo day, a quartzite of the road extends to the front, set off in a village in the verdant green horse faintly exposed corner of the wall, and then further to see is a winding, such as the Dai-Aoyama. Each will be formed over a waterfall Tang Yan, Tang Yan-ping on the waves like a mirror, smooth and mellow, like combing the hair too. This accidental discovery of the beauty of the roadside so that we linger afternoon a memorable one, would like to become a Baiya floating on top, careless slipped on a happy surfing.
By Qinghua town, the road along the quartzite slowly but OK, come deep long lane, and finally came to the Rainbow Bridge, there were a wooden structure, covered bridges, like a brick tombs of ancient, icy cold to Tuozhe deck , lie in the flood of students on the Punta humilis. Bridge Gallery Pavilion by seven inlay made with the bridge 140 meters long, 7 meters wide, four old pier, Zhu Lan black tiles, mottled old booth there was light caress the stone table and stools for people to rest Shigu. Li Bai's poem is not "two folders mirror of water, Shuangqiao down rainbow" depicts scenes that do not let me linger along the afternoon a memorable one for all kinds of crosses several bridges. I can not help a bit disappointed, on the road to remind me not to have too much hope for the bridge reported that a friend was very proud of his own speculation.
Daoshi surface of the water under the bridge filled with misty river attracted me. After crossing from the vicissitudes of the ancient board small bamboo rafts, Penny's ups and downs Department, which glitters flip, shadow boat swaying in the clear river, the green of the plants in the Rourou to swagger. A group of children in the river off the clothes in the water splashing and happy little girl is holding a small shrimp nets carefully Laozhuo. Creek under the bridge quay, peasant woman in the Kap Shui Mun Bridge wharf where vegetables while chatting inside the short side of the Lut bladder homemade laundry bar hammer Te-shan of the ring. This scenario logical pits, starting at dawn, in the rainbow pass, in the way we travel through the village and had to wear a small stream, day after day played out. However, with the increase in tourism and opening up and pollution, which is almost the same as the ancient history of the village crossing not take in 2012, perhaps next year, may be passed their prime, or even gone forever. Each one built, they had gone through hardships, but every once destroyed, they at your fingertips.
Wuyuan has strange things in the house although the bridge and river, but Wuyuan lot of money in a pure rivers and lakes, it retains the original style of ancient Chinese village. The ancient architecture, the Wu-source is preserved ancient buildings in China today the largest and most complete one of the places are still well preserved Ming and Qing Dynasty of ancient ancestral 113, the ancient mansion of the 28, the ancient houses and 36 bridges 187 Block. Although the order to Huizhou ancient architectural features to maintain continuity and form a larger landscape, the county government now ask for the construction of apartments, restaurants and homes, are purely for the Ming and Qing style architecture, but I think a large number of tiles, glazed tiles and glass curtain wall use has destroyed the ancient architectural complex of the ancient charm. In particular, closer to the traffic away from the city of Wuyuan County village more convenient, because open early damage are greater. The most objectionable to a friend in the extension of the village, thinking mouth and so on, almost every village of our ancestors in the old house selling fake relics under the portrait of a surprising Paizhaoxiongfu said that it was their ancestors left behind, and slow and expensive . But a lot of things in Shenzhen East Gate of the finders everywhere, and we travel was worn away, hastily cursory trouble.
However, from the famous group of elite government officials rationale pit house is worth a go, where the most representative buildings. It is black and white style of the old house is the solidification of the Huizhou. Stream sides in the old house the same color of the powder wall gray tiles, while the gray tiles with the passage of time has become a Dai-color, black and white style of Eau transferred out of a sense of beauty, like black and white pictures depicting the history. The roof of the horse wall Yan Jiao Fei Qiao, in the azure sky, the outlines residential wall and the sky contour. Old House are all brick-wood structure, from the dilapidated houses common to the three dark-opened three-crafted eunuch living room, the style is uniform in general style, "Huizhou" style. Randomly opened to "Sima Cap", "the doctor first," the old house, they entered the building sculpture art galleries, cornices Qiaojiao door cover, under the door Fang prostrata column on the beautiful brick, stone carving, wood carving is extremely exquisite, carved Engineering is also very particular about, there is relief, deep carving, double hollow carving, deep big, performance but also a greater depth of field, and some have prospects, medium shot, vision of the points, and meticulous craftsmanship of the other people marvel. Some are meticulous logo stands for "Fu, Lu, Shou, Xi" and other auspicious words; some people recounting a scene of an old story. Unfortunately, most of the figures carved on the head have been artificially destroyed, and the history of the Cultural Revolution left scars Cang shocking here. Wet years old grow a thick layer of moss on the wall, Mo Shangqu soft, flexible, such as natural wool carpet, old wall, that the mottled color of these things like painting in general. Walk in the roadway on both sides is a tall wind firewall, Ma Tau overlay the wall, the wall is a Cuicao dead leaves, moss Cang-yin, at the foot of a quartzite of the Trail, prints deep, coupled with "cock mulberry summit , bark Shenxiang China ", at this moment you will have a return to basics, and floated want to sen feeling.
We accidentally walked into a residence, it is not a tourist visit point, but people are still the owner to give us a good smile, to express their welcome. This used to be wealthy side of the Huizhou florist, the current owner who was a 70-year-old woman, the old life does not seem to change, halls, corridors, courtyard are still raising a lot of flowers, but not as early as a living out of. We gently enter the old one of the hall, one case, a few, a bottle of the past, merchants are all disclosed to the quiet life of desire. When their hometown glory, homecoming, the poor very civil, to build a sophisticated blocks of residential buildings; With the growth of wealth, a time human bird, the Huizhou culture had a glorious era. The folklore of the "official non-descendants of happiness," "rich, but three generations", in that it is an excellent validation. Flower tree in front of verdant, old age and the old one increasingly dark chilling; that symbolizes the five mountains overturned gable, can not help Yaran. The old one dark, rusting door ring in time quietly watching the erosion; only exquisite carvings in the memories of the rich past; mottled horse wall, standing against the breeze, still recounted by Fenghua; and scattered on the roof of the Qingwa a faint whisper oh, pioneers, the tear-jerking ballad. Reason to leave the pits, I was silent a.
Wucheng far away mountains and rivers in the Wucheng Jijing the venue, walk the mountain trails in Wuyuan, jagged tree, after another winding river, In little villages, charging spots better than open our eyes and footsteps of presence.
We Tsinghua packets of a new town, a small farm truck to go Changhe Li Hang. From Tsinghua University - Tuo River - Li Hang - Zhejiang source - rainbow off about 4 hours, after several bargaining, finally set to talk about 100 yuan. Is tens of miles Shashi Lu, narrow roads and many bends and bumps. Drivers of bad road conditions such a small group can get going fast, and sometimes the wrong car, he did not even slow down for a minor from the Well, a description will be chatting with us. Friends can not help but praise from the young driving skills, after learning that a small Changhe Zheliang bought 15 days, a friend gave me was very proud slower to catch, it seems to say: "Look, I am able to find such a Zheliang new car, We were very lucky in very good shape. "But he has not yet reveling in the maintenance of 30 seconds was to combat without a trace. Because the young man went on to say: "I drive have only 15 days, and no official learned." My friends and I unanimously quietly cut the sound of hearts playing the snare drum. Wu-long is not only remembered the day we arrived, due to certain drivers covet your neighbor beautiful scenery, inattentive Santana fell to the mountains from the Great Barrier. Car 5 Shanghai photography enthusiasts and drivers buried in the valley, in addition to two people who have found a skull, several other bones no. Of life in regret, I can not help but sigh Wu-long scenic charm.
Fortunately, the spring beside the surging stream of water once again attracted our attention. Water, vast and mighty, it seems that the world's rivers are starting from here, no wonder the place names Wuyuan also made many Zhe River, prettily River, floating river, Jeju Creek, and each one of the villages are in the river head, water River, there is wu mouth, think mouth, Akiguchi, Wang mouth, to keep the human in accordance with the pattern of the water door. San-ching Shuilv, the endlessly rising clamps the shore arrangement I expected, a mountain stream of the springs, but most let me ecstatic, quickly get off the feeling that it's pure and sweet. Ju Yipeng spring water to drink, then sweet and straight into the bottom of my heart. Drivers will also be small group Wahaha mineral water to the off, and put on a full bottle of spring, it is proudly said to me: "We are far from the water Wucheng sweet bar!" Speech in his hometown to do is love and pride.
Jiangling, Wuyuan is a friend in the eyes of the classical pastoral scenery. Coming out from the pit is the official Wu-Yuan, one of the most difficult way to go. Very inconvenient because of traffic in the morning 6 o'clock we sat pit from the official farm dump truck drove to the road in the Wuyuan heavy peaks of folded mountains, crevices, and twists and turns of the bend as if no end. The road is extremely narrow and steep-grade pit with pits, body and car seat chairs high collision frequency, magnitude was my first experience of his life. More than 70 miles of our farm dump truck opened more than two hours. Is said to meet a heavy rain or snow can not have any means of transport into the mountains, and in winter often can not be opened a few weeks, those who work outside the home of the child returned home for the New Year coming across such a situation, only the first car to the segment Xin Township, and then walk together 50-60 years (about 7-8 hours) mountain could return home. Fortunately, the driver is a skilled guy, and from this mountain every day and transported out of the village tea, back to the town of goods. Horrible thing is that the car's horn button on the steering wheel broken, and every time he was a turning loose a grip the steering wheel must be hand to press the shift rod horn switch, looked at a few hundred meters deep valley, we have can not help but scared. Mountain Road to do when you are poor, but suddenly a bright eyes, - that row upon row of black tiles and white walls of the village land lying still on both sides of the river in the Pallas-like, enveloped in the thin morning mist, as if to sleep for a thousand years! If I had served in the grounds dump pit exquisite exquisite ancient architecture, and now I marvel at the layout of residential areas in this valley and a landscape of natural harmony and integration of the. They all set off among the trees at Castle Peak and to the mountain tops, clear spring as partners, no matter from that point of view, can be found in the United States. Really "outside the village and another village, 1000 shade trees and old trees 4:00 spring." Repose in a valley into which layers of terraced fields, both smooth lines and rich colors. I have a deep nostalgia of those strange colors, paint in the box that is not out of tune. Thin, come to think of those colors, gray, green, red, black, white, yellow, green, and blue, gold, deep, shallow, thick, and pale, and even and orderly, and mottled of ... .... As long as you can think of have done, and even more, and each color has always been so harmonious, and both subtle color around the benefits of physical surroundings to create, but also in will not be overwhelmed by the surrounding colors, unique beauty. Standing on hillside overlooking the terraces and farms multi-layered, jagged, near and far bias input on taste, a strong sense of space makes the tension of the full screen. If it is in March in a cauliflower surrounded Huang Cancan, presumably all the more stocks can not tell the glory of the gas. This beautiful mountains and rivers and lakes, and only made the words of uncanny workmanship of nature could create. Only passed this mountain, seen here, Wei thick green trees, vertical and horizontal stone torrent stream, rolling tea Barry slope, layout, exquisite villages, gentle simplicity of the villagers, I realized the true beauty of Wu-Yuan.
Wuyuan's would have been an ordinary tourist, to see Napian God created the natural lakes and mountains and found the scenery more beautiful, or the lack of people of color can not. All images are the most vivid brush strokes. No one's landscape, beautiful, or in a lonely, so I watched a scene, at the same time read the story of a group of people.
Wuyuan people tends to be honest, although there is very underdeveloped nature, even the people are. This trip so that our best memories is the old man a 68-year-old Kim. We read the first car arrived in Hong Guan-chang, has decided to climb the mountain on foot to the official pit accommodation. Shut down much at home in the rainbow lunch is 14:00 o'clock, according to the villagers is estimated that we probably should take four hours to reach the destination. Da-a home that fat proprietress soliciting signs the name of the Internet, although the taste of burning the food in general, the price is also more expensive Qinghua town and Wuyuan County town, but she was quite help us find a good guide, that is, the local villagers thin fine Shuo gold old man. He was wearing a pale blue work clothes washed, trouser legs rolled up high, a pair of shoed Jiefang Xie, uppers, has already broken several holes, dark skin and eyes of charity told us that he is a very simple and kind-hearted people. Elderly physically very tough, but the left eye suffering from glaucoma can not see, and it did not affect lead the way he has given us.
Our old man carrying the heaviest travel package (about 30 pounds), Hill Road, are quickly walked tens of miles in front of us. He is very rhythmic footprint Taguo quartzite puzzle of the trail, there are tap sound of sound ear. Looking back, Huishang who is along these quartzite Lu Tam Dan Zhao full of tea in exchange for the silver wrapped around his waist, Doraemon, a scholar, after studying so hard for a decade Hanchuang once they go in exchange for prominent hometown glory after entering political stratum. The Millennium wind and rain played, quartzite remain absolutely still, but truly beautiful the stone surface of the lines, vaguely recorded the traces of years.
I just started looking around the way, arbitrary camera placed POSE make friends, but soon the excitement was hot and hard completely conquered. Both large and small quartzite mountain, is just fine to go, but many of them hide in the weeds where the. We also met a group of mountains near the opposite direction over nearly a dozen young people in Shenzhen, our two groups so that they can surprise. Gold old man told us that there are some 20 mountain ridge, the next mountain is like to go some, but we are really in the mountains of the. Mountain climbing has always been half of a good friend since the plume strength almost could not lift kicker, let alone me. As the rugged mountain walk along the way we see that there are many abandoned farmland has been left for traces of a number of wild boar. Yangjiang grip a friend to buy machetes in hand, the courage to add one to let himself, and secondly, to protect me. But I think if there is really nothing to attack, I have a Paobu Dong. Kind of awkward to see our tired, old man smiled from time to time to stop and wait for us, and still chat with us break up the monotony, the local dialect is very hard to understand, every time he said, never tire of repeating a word several times. We have booths along the way to rest on two occasions, in fact they are old Station Road pavilion pavilion, there is wood, and brick, the poor, but simple and unsophisticated. Kiosk in ancient times has someone said to burn tea for porters along the passers-by thirst. When we go down the mountain, the old world for a while heavy rain. Hoary old trees of the rain soaked into the deep Zhi Gan Dai-color, twilight cows go barefoot children walked through the breeze brought the fragrance of the soil, carrying baskets tea, tea-picking sister came back from the hills, the new pick buds remained the mountain spirits souls, shrouded in rain and fog in the official pit plume of smoke rising curl. Our fatigue in this time to alleviate a lot of rain, the old man very happy, went so far as we sing our local minor, "Meng-jiang woman." Sing back to us for each section to explain the meaning of lyrics in our request, the old songs have been floating around from the hillside to the foot. This is my experience of Wu-long and crosses the line of the most memorable, a place of beauty of what is often tapped by the travelers themselves. Beautiful scenery and give us the memory of a long-term, while long-term memory, there are always many things that will be deposited on a lively mind, moved, or comprehend.
Finally to the official pit, the old man afraid we did not understand the local language, and insisting on us to find somewhere to live in the village turn two laps without results, after we went to the village party branch, where there is close examination of new mining village of tea. This time has been more than six, and the mountains dark early, and cloud top pressure storm is approaching, we fear that too late to go back to the old man a man is dangerous (he also approached the four hours of the mountain, to the rainbow off to nearly 10 pm points), give him 40 yuan let him go back earlier. The old man to see the money first response is received as an explosive, almost jumped up and loudly shouted, "What has to be so much money that good on the 20 Well, you make money is not easy ..." last barely close of the 30 money, and leave the eyes seem to be showing no apologies for us to find housing. I am reminded of another encounter at Qinghua old town. When we went to Rainbow Bridge, a friend and get off to buy batteries, shop next to an old man and chatted up the driver of Moldova, evidently they are familiar. May be estimated that I did not understand the local dialects, they talk about nothing to fear. When the old man to tell we are tourists in Shenzhen, the driver of the motor machines should award the dark: "They come from Hong Kong and Shenzhen have money, they want to Where you drag them where to go, they will return with them to want money ... .. "I could not help laughing a.
Wuyuan's official pit is what we live in the land market to the most weak sense of place, but also the poorest. The entire village has more than 500 households, 1500 people, all the young have gone to work outside the mountain to stay in the village are mostly young and old, women and children. The villagers pointing in the village we found under the sole of the hotels, in fact, a common farmer, the owner is a humpbacked old woman, was washing clothes, one heard Needing to stay, the first elephant Bo Langgu shake immediately, " a man with a woman ... .. then how OK! I will not have! you go to party secretary arrangements. "This is the town at the Tsinghua University and several other farm in the village gracious accommodation in stark contrast.
Embarrassed to return to the village party branch, the team of the fifties or sixties is a little two-story brick building, which is a wooden structure, next to the tea, plus workshops and the village's only canteen. The small things that little store, cola and mineral water is simply not. Waiting for "organizational arrangements", the friend of his to carry out public relations activities, bite the bullet and fed the first three laps Kim Sung (reportedly the best tobacco in Jiangxi), he took the keys from the hands of Hong Shuji, secretary of the situation Cut to tell us their true intentions: "This is the best room in the village, specifically leaders of the township who used to live down the inspection work ... ..." The room at the team's two buildings, secretary of the office next door, about 7 square meters, the room filled with a Mei Qi, dilapidated floors and paint the windows shows the sparse traces of the years. An old-fashioned desk, a square stool, two wooden beds, a mat, a system has been factory printed XX green Army would be, a hand-stitched red cloth pillows, there is a dim light made a 25-watt light bulb the village is "the most sophisticated hotels," all of the belongings of the. The toilet in a remote village and, of course, is that two board a pit latrine in rural areas, simple. From the village party secretary home after dinner is the silent fields, such as water in the moonlight. Village branch of tea downstairs workshop is being acquired through the night in the production of tea during the day. We are also of great interest to learn the craft of tea they do, I was making tea when a return to work. Since only know the processing of tea, the restaurant can no longer drink the tea that we had.
It could not withstand the day to late at night to go mountain fatigue, asleep fully clothed, but the aching muscles quickly wake up pain, while the thick hard wood top of the bones were whole body is rigid. Kun pains of tired and half awake in between the extreme I can not help but miss the benefits of modern civilization, soft Simmons, beauty salons massage massage, if a hot sauna bubble bath, simply boundless happiness. Friends more Yiyewumian, I cried out to look at early morning scene. The sky will be white, people Sheng Jian, the Morningstar Liaoluo, chicken Bark-ming, Kwun Hang, early morning is so beautiful. Quartzite along the road until you come in to the mist shrouded fields, the fields, while the small yellow wild flowers and red berries still unknown last night's dew dripping, green rice seedlings Long Zhao layer veil, looking back slightly bright dawn villages and in dimly the outline of distant mountains are the Dai Qing's ink marks in the fresh air Baotou deep breath, let the fragrance of grass and fields of the fragrance retained throughout one's mind. Let me all this way and the journey is so worth the hard work last night. This deep sense of nostalgia for the rural rhyme and natural gift of life and tests people's imagination Meaningful and long, deep.
Wuyuan Wuyuan eating many remote villages there is no restaurant. Personal feeling is not good to eat peasant food, sanitation situation is particularly worrisome, in the small bridges, Li Hang, the villagers eat and drink all at a width of 2,3 Lazard m small enough, because the Lee County belongs to the lower reaches near the pit, the water was relatively dirty and very many visitors go to almost all homes have dragged you to their house to eat "peasant food", I have personally seen an old lady in the water's edge Wash Mop, a small girl washing toilet brush, in their lower reaches to 10 meters, there are ceramic chickens are vegetables and rice, it seems the local people, has already used to it. Wuyuan partial taste spicy, inexpensive, meal Shenzhen rice cost less than 1 / 3. yuan money more than two people can eat a full stomach alcohol round. may be due to less pollution in local dishes reasons, do not put MSG taste for cooking is also very good, deep impression are the following points:
Bacon: the local people all homes have their own system after castration. Local meat do not with the Hunan bacon, smoked shorter periods of time, and put in a lot of spices, so pale Run-wei shiang meat, cut into small pieces with green pepper or garlic that is copied may, in Wuyuan Dun Dun few days I hardly eat it.
Paste Tofu: Use the local white tofu, vegetables, mushrooms, diced Suimo cut out after the boil, the county's approach followed the rainbow off a little bit different, but the taste is pretty good, mm would be more like, Oh.
Purse red snapper: known as the most delicious local specialties, to take out insurance before the time of a broker (exactly the locals) to us highly recommended, she said that authentic purse redfish is red, two sharp, body ± a ± a, non - large, only about a palm long, thin thorns less meat and delicious. Wuyuan, but I saw everyone in the pockets of fat redfish the first big ears, at least have a pound; it was only in remote Hong Guan (village), thought of here, counterfeit, the fish should be relatively small, so should be a minimum, one that has a pound. burned the tables to see how the park is also like a lychee red carp, ate two and then did not want to stretch on the chopsticks, to be fair tastes to go off.
Qingming fruit: a package of a variety of green vegetables and rice group, appearance a bit like dumplings, steamed, more good-looking, his girlfriend ate one line of rice is also said to lamb: a sticky surface and will be mixed together so Roumo steamed, there is no taste.
Vegetable: What water, celery, water, vegetable chunks, not to mention delicious, try a fresh.
Steamed stuffed bun: surprise is to discover here buns even taste very good, tall, small, average price of 0.20 yuan / month, as everyone in vain Nennen Jiangnan MM, Xiu Xiu gas gas, along the fairly good performance; What impressed me most is that in Jiangling Reservoir drivers, we go to that house shops, there are two kinds of lean meat and vegetables, vegetarian stuffing, there are pumpkins, tofu and so on. and then installed a small packet of chili in the coming bubble point, sword bean, ginger, local pickles do not scattered salt Sichuan, and Hunan is not spicy, oil are more exact to my taste, I really regret it until the city bought four Wuyuan County Bridge Construction Bank's backyard financial restaurant. tasty, the price level. weight foot, two people eat two dishes could not finish.
Qinghua Hotel opposite the small town of Venus couple blocked, according to boss said that her husband turned out to be a chef's chef (PKN times), tastes decent, a good knife. Impressed me most was that Chinese cabbage, it really is small!!!
Experience: Do not go to what is designed for visitors to open the food stalls, more steps will be able to find a way for local services in order to enjoy the authentic restaurant services.
Author: zgyx