The final enclosure
2095 winter, I walked the road from Yunnan to Tibet, Kunming, Dali, Hei Chau, Lijiang. And I love Y. All the way to complete the "Yunnan-line Journey," published a number of excerpts from the article.
Autumn of 2097, I walked the Qinghai-Tibet road Dunhuang, Jiayuguan, Lanzhou, Xining, huangzhong Tar. Travel alone. Walking and writing, completing his own favorite Anew "Dunhuang OK."
This time, I walked the Sichuan-Tibet road Luding, Kangding, xinduqiao, as well as the last Shangri-La - Inagi.
I have finally completed the final enclosure of Tibet.
The next time, my plan is driving the car, alone travel in Tibet.
Is a question in mind.
Preface
Independent travel has become used to it.
In many cases, by a corrupt and the depth of lingering emotional distress, I have想出去走走.
In many cases, feel that their life is very Long sunny, and even its own expression is ambiguous, I want to rephrase it breathe.
Very often, I feel that he has always sunny smile began to dim, always free polished personality began to be bored, I want to take the big natural, awaken their own natural.
Single trip felt like this before is always the background.
Like to travel alone.
Because freedom. Drift from the stream, arbitrary things. Can be excited when a man sat watching the sunset river, desert and Smoke; up to themselves and the natural seamless.
No one bothered. Occasionally disturbed only linger in the mind of those stories of the dead pieces.
The Wei-an and the vastness of nature, many of the story is just a grass ups and downs. Look, the tree sprouted new leaves, grass and blooming flowers; the end of the story into a seed buried also Bale. The coming year, bears flowers more beautiful fresh flowers.
The face of bleak land, do not think it had been relieved.
As a result, the quiet laughter, calmly; so brilliant.
People are very easy to the atmosphere of the.
Happy is that people can not keep up your rhythm.
There is no melody in tune with my people, the best on his own crooning of Chosho. Otherwise, everyone is tired, it is also hard.
The sweet, bitter, and flavored, and boring, bloated, wordy, and not clear-cut, drowsily, and all of the mess were one stroke off Hui. To point immensely.
Risk? In the city car to cross the road can also be easily killed.
I always felt that people died in the grass than die in a lot of asphalt, we should look good.
Dead in bed supposedly good, but it is best to have a woman holding tightly to you, tears in their eyes looking at you, kissing your lips, and then die.
Single trip only need to be careful, do not need Xieyi Shu.
Travel alone, the most have been shocked by the time that is seen, and sentiment of the immediate nature, and he is followed by the purest most natural time. Is looking for individuals to share their most happy time.
Think about it! The first person out of my mind, absolutely is a favorite.
If the thought of, there is no doubt that this woman I love her. Love deeply, because she is only alive in my heart above, I will not get the feeling of their most exciting dance with her. Would not hesitate to say I love you, never reluctant to say when, never hypocritical and natural as I have seen and touched with the nature.
If she knows, it will float in the clouds which float in呀.
I just want to pull one over her, to hold fast to her bones she crowded Lozhilozhi ring, pro, she a very tough battle, saying that even bad bite her a few mouthfuls.
My mind no longer impossible to escape to a person, they had to silence, like a cold stone.
Therefore, the most shocking single journey time, that is their most solitary of the most quiet time. Lonely and haughty, desolation and sadness, a downright wolf feeling.
The feeling is only in an instant rise in my heart, no Pei enemy, it can Mok Yu. Every this time, I always take my own throw nature, by them have the final say.
This is just heavy precipitation in the heart of the concept of independent travel.
In fact, a simple single brigade, the real happiness is enough.
The most willing to do, is to experience, to experience, to happiness, to quiet, to be moved, to be shocked. So simple as that.
As a result, a decision to travel alone, people immediately completely light of.
Wrong machine
April 30, the Beijing Airport.
I only spent half an hour, put themselves and their luggage all packed, and 8:50 flights flying to Chengdu.
Heart inside the strange, but my first trip alone option aircraft. People can not agree with the old, old, and the things it is easy to adhere to degradation.
On the taxi I was stupid, and Beijing still traffic jams.
This thing depends on me: I thought I did not go to work today, everyone, and I do not like to go to work. Members since it is not me, so we go to work. Let's all work, Beijing's roads will certainly not wide enough.
To this new version of create their own tongue twisters kept repeating N times, and angrily predicted that Beijing's Olympic bid will be dead by vegetables, or in the time of arrival at the airport, was always late but today quasi-point ventilation ruthlessly put down the aircraft.
Crestfallen in exchange for a 8:50 pm flight. It appears I should have to adhere to principles: never travel alone by plane.
Simply do not return to the urban area of the. Go to the airport bookstore and bought a "San Mao's Collected Works" to see if the thickness is probably enough to see the dark.
Chengdu, there are User, etc. I make a phone call, do not know that they Xiaodiao How many pieces of the Daya. - Appalling is that little girl called HTT, but also Internet gloating: imagine the non-Ichiro netizens now go to Beijing Airport!
Addition of a number of San Mao understood. It was an already Gone freedom that can follow the beautiful, is a world in the ideological roots of the beautiful language.
San Mao can be traveled thousands of miles, you can write a lot of shocked people's writing, in addition to her very strong negative personal characteristics, personality, it is important to have love. I know that her death: she is very self, she died of "nonself", died in the last paragraph completely not my life.
I suddenly remembered my second girlfriend, D, I would like to ask her to take a look at speed "with disabilities as a confidante to die." No, she should be allowed to look at the whole book.
San Mao are extremely intelligent woman, and Jose are extremely intelligent man.
They fully understand each other fly, they know how to fly a take-off and their own.
Many people are eager to romance, but often did not dare to romance. Always felt that it takes courage to do.
In fact, the romance does not require courage, just real. If you are a romantic person, and the living truth, you will have very romantic.
Decided to go to Inagi, simply because the sentence: Inagi is the last Shangri-La, is mankind's last piece of pure land. The rest I do not know, they do not know.
I have no plans, no development of line, program is actually tied his hands and feet of rope; I believe the letter: there must be road vehicles to the Piedmont.
He Shangshu, fell in love with San Mao.
Gathering Chengdu
May 1, Chengdu.
Chengdu, I've been to four times, and urban monuments inside the fundamental would have watched, feeling Hunhunee of vague, like other big cities like the inside of the scenery.
Had to go and see "human landscape."
Morning, get up, go visit Hsuan (network) Chengdu, renowned on three sisters: cold hands, magic perfume, rain ran; there is always made me feel kind of HTT.
Taxi drivers have told me: You have friends, a place to live, is an affluent area of Chengdu.
Rich area! ! I quickly scanned some of my clothing has always been casual. If they are a business wear, Yitaiwanfang, grace graceful, surely I was to give them embarrassment? Fortunately, I did not come deeply attached to each of the.
I rarely care about their own clothing, suits, or the work of the future you want to go abroad to participate in a formal negotiation to reluctance to buy a unique set of; that occasion Hen Langbei: Because every time a member of the negotiations have been neatly wrapped, and I was still full of Head sweat to energetically fight red scarf from his childhood the way to deal with quickly and drive me to the crazy but it must be of no use to wear, and that is called "tie" the damn stuff. At that time I have a beautiful girlfriend D taught me a lot of times, I am extremely smart in this respect is the easy short-circuit.
Impression that there are also really care once had his own clothing.
Remember that it was early winter, a dust days.
D model girlfriend to participate in training draft day contest, and she wanted me to accompany her to watch her to complete the show. I happen to have a design day of the transfer had to promise I'll rush to complete after the transfer of venue.
I braved the wind and sand all the way, sounded dust and recklessly broke into a fluttering in the venue immediately dumbfounded.
A roomful of beauties, heavy make-up dresses Streit. Each girl is gorgeous with the brand-name cosmetics and colorful clothes to enjoy their beautiful performance out of their own body beautiful exaggerated out of partially exposed ... ... watch the race of the beauties of a boyfriend who is also a suit-a quiet demeanor.
From them and their eyes can see it: I really "alien" is possible.
D Ben happily over, the "alien" adopt away, embrace when you spit tongue, said: "I have finished game, it is estimated played smash!" And then Accompanied by their "alien" look at the arm rest of the game together.
D is a pretty girl, taller than me one centimeters. D in training when I had proudly said: "I'm not the most professional, but looks at the inside edge it!." Take a look of that crowd of girls, I found my girlfriend really beautiful. There are models around the amateur photographers to prepare and D is about photos, so his own vanity at once infinitely inflated.
D looked very leisurely, it was no one to hand Accompanied by their "otherness" of the arm as he craned to see the rest of the game, I was no one to kissed her on the cheek.
Then D is beautiful; that moment she made me feel comfortable and really proud of.
Either to the wealthy, "alien" can also be memorable for several stories to tell.
First see the little hand and perfume, once grown in one breath: they wear very casual Well!
Is called the natural rain and moths. The gift to them: Give small hands and little creative perfume bottles of perfume each had presented; the shooting in Paris, a few first edition of photographs given to a small hand; remember the rain ran Posts which had complained to her lollipop I said, is always empty promise, so much to buy a pair of socks stuffed inside the lollipop given to her, and can be considered to mean what they say has. As for the moths had to do next life reborn woman, come take my gift.
We go for dinner. Perfume Point a eggplant, and we laughed, it is estimated that she was not seen me by the Posts - "eggplant."
Going to the park tea. Listen to me a bad person to endless. - Chengdu is really a very casual city, and the pace leisurely, and is unknowingly on the light a lot.
See the HTT. Online lovely HTT, a few words the beginning.
To go to bars. To see the zombies. Zombies, like me, are the words not the kind of endless startles the guy. This is just great, and drank a lot of wine. HTT, then finally increased recently. HTT sound pleasing to the ear, whether it is said that words of Mandarin, or Chengdu. Accompanied my arm, her hand Rourou, like, like her voice.
I asked everyone in the bar on the Chengdu Underground Rock-and-Roll, such as "Ashura," "Quake," "betrayal of pilgrims", "bleaching", "U235", "infancy" and "small Rou Rou", etc. Local bands, we do not know. The students said that Sichuan will be singing "inherent defects", "Surprise" Chengdu two classic rock songs, we do not know. (10 days later asking useless Sichuan University scholar, he does not know.)
I am glad that they are living in Beijing, the birthplace of Chinese rock and roll and center, the hotbed of Chinese rock and roll and pulse. Someday, Ebb Tide, China's rock and roll will be in Beijing, to become shining gold.
Dinner. Drink a lot of wine.
Go to karaoke. Perfume, HTT, the rain ran to sing very nicely.
Respectively. We hugged the side of the side 11 and I said with a smile: "Tomorrow you will certainly wrong car."
I laughed. User I have seen several times, but this time the most happy, and very jolly. Them and I imagine the same, warm, happy, light, refreshing. Although I am more "alien", but being slow, they have been easily pulled me into the their atmosphere. With wine, is not strange if Weizui! Weizui is simply not suited to blunt Chengdu呀!
HTT took me to find hotel, I gave her two CD. Because intimacy, to pass at the airport that they have read the "San Mao's Collected Works" is also given to her.
Easily find a hotel, went to sleep.
Wrong car
May 2, Chengdu, I completed the design of Peking University Science Park before deciding to bid alone brigade, and has accumulated a depth of fatigue.
Slept four hours, get up, the coachman.
South Gate to a new bus station is really huge crowds of people. I guess they should all go to Leshan, Dujiangyan, Qingcheng Mountain, Emei Mountain; or Jiuzhaigou and Huanglong. I have been to these places, they should not be crowding out of my seat, right?
Kangding no car to go to Inagi the car all day only trip, but also full member.
If you are a group of girls together "blessing" wrong car, then simply go to the station on the other; because it is simply by their final say.
Kangding bought tickets to go tomorrow morning, sadly back to the urban areas to find hotels.
Simply the first sleep. Up and take a bath, put a few days of fatigue, Beijing and Chengdu, last night's Jiujin are diluted. Or is it because I have this time to relax than in the past, but also confused by a group of beautiful, Chengdu, probably subconsciously want and happy with everything for the sake of their multi-bar. Mistakenly machine is the first time, travel time had almost no wrong car, This is just great, all caught up.
Hungry. To a HTT called shyly told her: "Really the wrong car."
Did not hear the microphone side of tread on the guffaw, I would have been more courageous: the "Come with me to eat for dinner?"
After dinner roaming the land, HTT to eat ice cream, I was busy watching the summer Chengdu beauty.
Chengdu's beauty are relatively plentiful, I love it. Also in the summer, natural wear less, I like. Um, um, clothes look good, this, this tall good-looking eyes and wanton ... ... search, their mouths mutter prayers, not knowing a satisfactory end the wolf had been HTT recorded Hsuan Doulou went out: "I certify that the non-Ichiro really like to see is filled with beauty . "
Phone call over the little hands together for dinner.
I know that the episode is over. From tomorrow, I would like to set foot on the road trip alone, same rate as before.
About Kangding
May 3, Kangding.
Leave the city landscape of the city, alone on the journey began in earnest.
As before, a calm and quiet joy from the deep bottom of my heart slowly Yan opened, changed my face. I think this time my demeanor was vivid.
Zuoshang Ju know, to more than six hours before they can to Kangding.
Drove it out of urban areas, with the blocks fed to a bag of plum: "Come on, try - you are to travel, right?."
Every single trip, others can see I was a tourist. Because many times the whole car as far as I an "alien." Is it that those people who travel with the group more and more?
A good-looking girl, modest plump and very healthy very cheerful appearance.
I tasted one, and sour.
She laughed, I took off the sunglasses.
Is really a "siege."
She is a girl Kangding, 51 to Chengdu to play. She said nothing Haoshua of Kangding, Chengdu is rather Haoshua. Wuhou Temple, Du Fu Thatched Cottage, what are Haoshua Qingyang Gong.
I said, good-looking girls in Chengdu, apart from tasty things on the little things Haoshua of.
She smiled rock with laughter. - Such a happy girl full of so you are likely to be infected, and I happy together.
"That you are a person?" She fed to a bag of beef jerky.
"Yes." This is unique for each trip was the most asked question, I smiled habitually, by the way smoking a beef jerky: "I used to travel alone had."
"A good many people, very lonely, and even had people do not speak."
", You know, you are now in and speak to me."
She also rock with laughter. Like magic, I found out that she, like her little Kunbao from the inside out all kinds of snacks. This girl is no doubt always easy happy.
In fact, a person to trip a lot of benefits, free casual, you can change the itinerary at any time depending on the circumstances. Because no one wound, feeling an exception will be keen. You have to climb snow-capped mountains to the half of the time, companions (if female) mountain sickness, and you must give up the landscape to take her down the mountain; you are to enjoy the natural, when excited companion suddenly said: You see, the opposite turned out like a mountain travel guide said the elephant is a penholder, I saw half a day to see it come out then! Or look at the non-screen wall should Jiulongshan 9 Long before give up far-fetched to find out, would not feel disappointed to grandma house! And so on and so forth, so by no means with the group, with the group is simply suffer.
Calmly, you have been impressed by the depth of nature and feel, when you want to sit down and have been looking at sunset, no one will keep urging you say: "'s getting dark."
Because of the natural beauty or you want to Duodai 12 days, no one said: "We are not planned out when the next one place to go today, it?"
More will not find the face of a natural time to do the first portrait photographer for a long time to see gang behavior among some, ravaging the natural.
Every time I travel a lot of roll film will be shot, wash out when the only inside their own 23. I rarely shoot their own reason: and landscape photo, not scenery ravaging me is that I ravaging the landscape.
I know people who really love brigade alone will never be the next best thing in tourism. In fact, even greater than tourism, including life, including love, including themselves.
"You're not afraid of a man?" This is fed back to the chewing gum.
"I am such a person makes a look, do not want to Na Daokan not want to eat, what to be afraid of?"
"But maybe there will be a time when travel dangerous." She laughed.
"Yes. For example, is said to Kangding of tourists each year, a few lost their lives; but people travel every year tens of thousands of Kangding. If I had luck meet danger, nothing can touch back to Beijing Sports Mark Six Lottery啦! "
This time she smiled while shaking his head disapprovingly while she will certainly be surprised that I actually have such a strange theory.
Me since I believe to be right, can in the city you live all over the world can guarantee their own invincible hand?
Besides, I also thought of living to 80-year-old insisted.
Remember that in North Africa, Algeria, once a person go to see slums. Because one would like to experience the second is that area of the capital Algiers, the Arab oldest residential area, there are many old houses.
(San Mao in the Western Sahara, worries about where the Sahara desert from Spain, after Morocco or become a trustee, or become a host country, Algeria. Algeria is Africa's second largest country, from colonial rule in the national liberation movements high period, Algeria, Africa, the center of violent resistance movement. is a former South African President Nelson Mandela Institute in Algeria blast, sniper. the country's anti-government terrorist activity has continued to this day.)
My Arab driver Aru Kuquan I do not want to take risks. Aru told me that even the locals rarely go to slums; in Algeria in terrorist activities directed against foreign journalists, when in that region had died at least more than 30 foreigners had.
Aru only dare to park in the slums entrance, his face worried that a cry: "Sa Hani Mani coaxing"
(God bless you), and then looked at me and go in big strides.
Here the old Arab houses really let me feast for the eyes, let me record the feeling of space everywhere from time immemorial has been extended to a long story now. But sit in the corner shadows of people inside the fragmented, with a very faded, or even slightly hostile eyes looked at me, coupled with the Arabs has always been deep-Jiong sockets did not ease people. I became a visual center of all ignored.
Sunlight is very violent, vision was cold.
A tiny little girl ran, and fell in front of me. I quickly stepped forward lifted her, patted her soil; looked at her little Zuiyi Pie, I'll have her come up with a sparkling package of chocolate. Little guys cry, and also with a small hand around my neck.
I hugged her and just stood up, he was a crowd of chattering children surrounded. Although they in rags, but like all the world like the other innocent children, live wave lovely. They are beautiful little face upturned, happy smile, crying, pulling my Yijiao, held my hand, and even gently pulling my hair ... ...
I let them lined up taking pictures and then I bring a small gift, candy distributed to them, and they followed me all the way jumping, crying. I suddenly found that faint shadow of coming from a corner inside the eye with the touch of smile, or at least is no longer blindly cold.
I have fantasies like wishful thinking, even with a sniper aimed at my heart robbed his heart to let me bleeding and I carried my little girl fell down along with his heart to let me stunned with the kids around with the most retained the memory of a lifetime of terror?
I therefore safety, I can shoot so many shots. At least I can think about.
Children have been surrounded send me slums, sent to the car. I saw the Aru smiled.
I always think that traveled the world only two conditions, one, you do not like to stray, you're a vagrant. Second, you have a wide love.
Traveled the world does not require courage, like the romance does not require the same courage. Only a true romantic, he would travel the world too, the real volatile out of their own, would be sufficient. You're not people who traveled the world, even with Jing Ke Ci Qin's courage, but also will not traveled the world.
Does not love those who simply must live in the space inside the autistic.
Does not love themselves, do not receive someone else's love.
Love nature, love nature inside people, and love themselves before they can walk the world.
Car up to 4175 meters through the tunnel of Erlang Mountain, just five minutes.
Erlang is the Ganzi Island gates do not link up in the tunnel when the Erlang Mountain road is a single-Jin (Tibet) pairs out (for possession) is. Car is only necessary to climb over Erlang Mountain spent a full day. Erlang is often under the Black Mist, Black Mist, when visibility is under only one or two meters. So on average every day, and out of Tibet and crosses a car plunged headlong into the abyss of Erlang Mountain ravine where no way no longer salvaged.
Lucky Erlang mountain tunnel just before the opening of less than a year.
Climbed over Erlang Mountain, you can see the mountain range extends over the snow-capped mountains Gongga had.
After Luding saw the Luding Bridge over the Dadu River.
How could the Red Army more than a dozen Panzhao can attack the root iron chain to the other side of the Dadu River? It really Kazuo When Guan Wan Fu Mo open terrain. I'm really puzzled, and the film may indeed太夸张了吧? The very least, attack is over, the Dadu River should be red.
I do not believe humans over nature. In many cases, humans over nature is just ignorant raving mad.
I do not like people say to "conquer nature", even if you board in excellent shape, you just enjoy nature. People up a flag in the top of Mount Everest is the conquest of nature do? Is really superficial.
People like arrogance, overweening liked the whole of mankind.
Reach Kangding.
To Kangding are still many people travel, so I took a lot Jincai found a shelter: hotel waitress Taining her duty room you let me live.
Good Paoma Shan inquire about the line, dropped luggage left. Is already 16 o'clock, and well-intentioned Tibetan lady said: too late, you are a man or tomorrow and then go!
I am used to the travel time to seize the time, in addition to the need of sleep, I am reluctant to spend time in the hotel restaurant, bar, or one's own bed.
Kangding City has 2560 meters above sea level, while in excellent shape and was more than 1.5 thousand meters Taishan, Mount Huangshan Heavenly Capital Peak also more than 1800 meters.
Climbed by half, began to sweat. Not only because of elevation, I have not eaten in a day. There are people who sing the song down to:
Happy Yo-hill,
Yo-Yo more than one cloud,
Yo-way photo at the end to end,
The city of Kangding Yo-Yo ... ...
Needless to say song sounds good, and sensationalism. This song ever since the 1952 World Youth Festival in Vienna, won silver medals, the Kangding city renowned at home and abroad, for this reason. However, Paoma Shan has not left me any good impression: climbing all the way visitors abandoned garbage. All the people this time, almost all downhill, and many ladies of the mouth down inside, talked spit out seeds Sazhe skin.
Whenever I see this situation, I want to give them 11 to wear a chewing child.
Unhappiness.
Climbed to the top of the time, burst mountain breeze, I heard the pines. Finer inward, sadly, without a break.
Few people, I am facing the mountain breeze deep breath and mind began to quiet.
Paoma Shan was originally called "Ram is," the Tibetan language means "Goddess mountains." Reportedly the eighth century AD, the seventies, the Indian master Padmasambhava to send his disciples came to be widely read texts, the book "Ram is" derived from Yamana. Lunar New Year in April of each year the Qing Dynasty toast eighth day mountain god worship and hold the Jockey Club, so people called Paoma Shan. Qing Dynasty scholar Zhang Shiyi, modern Chinese painting master Chang Ta-chien, Wu Zuoren, and so to come here in Suketo left handed masterpiece.
Paoma Shan has not horse racing, and caravans are banned for security reasons. Top of the hill there is a new lama temples, and a new white relic stupa, a reinforced concrete circular racetrack. These new things I打不起精神.
Happy Valley, on the sidelines a few Tibetans, many of them the Tibetan costumes for the tour were photographed wearing rent. A few tourists on the straight up the past, put on the stand in a row, and then because trust my hair, put the camera to me a photo shoot let me help them.
Is preparing to down time, a small Tibetan people in the tent shouting me: Uncle, come sit.
Inside their tents, was immediately surrounded by a few Tibetans. Q. I would like to card, leave me postal address. I put the camera to them so that they can take pictures and give them pictures. We are very happy, they also began to dance.
Two Tibetans ran a small girl, it is straightforward to let me photograph them.
Next to a tourist without camera is also very straightforward to me to ask: How much money one?
I did not sell it to him.
There are also two female tourists, there is no camera but would like to take pictures, they did not dare, and I struck up a conversation, and had to himself, with the hope I can take the initiative to help them in the past.
They are bad luck. They met a while enthusiastic, but I like to put it bluntly. I'll give Tibetans little girl took two photos, note the address; look at two Han Chinese female tourist to see I do not speak frequently on indifferently away.
Tibetan boys were happy, and surrounded by a I went to another tent. I sat on the grounds of the location of distinguished guests, the master with the sleeves rubbed sized, and then I pour a bowl of dark and yak butter tea. I just drained the thirsty.
They surrounded me began to sing their folk songs, we took turns singing. My turn, I can not sing the Tibetan folk songs, had to sing the first Stengel's "Mongol." I found that my eyes inside the Tibetans is make them feel warm, while outside in the tent looked at me astonished eyes of tourists, I would like a absolute "heterogeneous."
I said: I will send you pictures.
The deepening twilight, the mountain tops, the cold biting, pine billows inward. A man enough, singing Cui Jian's "Jiaxing Seng," swinging swinging down the.
Hungry. In addition to a full day on board a little girl a few mouthfuls of snacks, and Pao Mashan buttered tea bowls on the outside, nothing to eat.
Habitually to the two dishes, a bottle of beer, two bowls of rice. Ms. Nao Duzi asked to be afraid of a garlic, anyway there is no kissing of the task, eat garlic, What are they afraid!
A moment later, everyone inside a restaurant with the same kind of vision of the concept of watching a disheveled person gorge.
I am really grateful to my stomach. Every single brigade, it can be resistant to the hungry, how can one pass Meng installed. I remember seeing big in Dunhuang desert camel, I am very envious of. If I have the hump, each single journey before I can put it very full, and then do not eat along the way, the how good!
Because sleep duty room, knock on the door several times at night like the voice of awakened, and they let me send slippers, get water or something. Be disregarded.
Later, a woman is estimated to be a Banlaoxuniang, worked very hard to knock on the door to toilet paper, a disproportionately large voice. Voices inside his mouth, the amount spent over the natural, there is no courtesy. Really feel sorry for her husband often hear the genuine Kingdom by the Sea. I have no obligation to listen, so thick the throat soon as Duanhe: There is no waitress, only Tate's menfolk one!
Silence down soon - I expect her to clean the first ran away.
Tower of public grassland
May 4, Kangding.
Have no choice but to look at a person's car rental 110 km outside the tower of public grassland.
This is probably the single trip I can think of only drawback of the time: If the four car rental, each individual only needs to pay 50 yuan, I will have to pay 200 yuan. Sometimes stay the same. - But this point of trouble and the benefits of independent travel simply can not be compared.
Driver said to call on a familiar tower of the public to go along with a friend, for fear of public grasslands, Tibetan tower caravan.
I finally walking on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway.
In my eyes, the beautiful scenery is too much: Plateau's unique blue sky, the plateau of the mountain plateau of snow-capped mountains, Tibetan residential areas of the Baita village, road next to Mani Dui. Fortunately, the driver is always very patient, you can stop any time I ran out of pictures.
Suddenly I can not stand, and I decided the next trip to Tibet independence, the case must drive himself. Driving their own cars, the face of this winding mountain road maneuvers ups! I know that this idea soon emerge, it becomes a decision can not be modified.
Climbed to 4298 meters above sea level car folding mountainous, I started a slight ringing in the ears.
Heavy fog. In addition to roads, and the mountains full of snow, very cold. The opposite is the rolling snow-capped mountains, half shrouded by the haze of the clouds, half of the sun shone bright. Once the plateau was the site-specific landscape shocked. Inspired by the ankle you have not seen snow, I forgot to raise their cameras for a moment compete.
I will be watching all around the scene until the Peak Mani Dui next to a guy cry Kangba put forward to a colorful piece of paper filled with texts towards the sky.
Scriptures, clouds are all around us from my quick skimming.
Fold over the mountainous, that is the real Tibetan residential areas, and have a Shuizang, celestial burial.
I could not write this piece of text grounding in the beautiful wilderness. I only know that my heart opened, and the wilderness together, and high-spirited, bold and unrestrained.
All because my heart is warm at this time and they are the same as wild.
I am what has been a beautiful city of restraint has long been finally released from the room, followed by the wilderness with broadened.
Stopped many times car. Only several residential areas of the Tibetan villages, small bridges, the poplar branches Qiu Jin, poplars on the nest, the clear blue sky, perspective line of low clouds ... ... have been, I would revert to the film's on.
I know I could take a piece of the plateau. Complete sense in retrospect can only be excited again.
Front fork, a direction to the Ganzi Sichuan-Tibet Northern Line; one is to Litang, Sichuan-Tibet Southern Link Daocheng direction. After xinduqiao car into the Northern line, and soon went to the tower of public grassland.
Lhakang relying on a high mountain, mountain and stuck a streamer.
Lhakang Department of the Tubo period Songtsan temple built in 108, one of the Sakyamuni Buddha Temple of Bong-like, is said to Princess Wen Cheng when Tibet ? carried life-sized Buddha, like 12-year-old to stay in the monastery. Therefore, lhakang par with the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, the "worship Kozo lhakang Buddha as its merit is equivalent to worship the Buddha in Lhasa, as" theory. A large quantity of Sakya monastery classic.
Tibetan temples I've seen a lot, so I just turn full circle in the living room and ran out. Lhakang a lot of behind the pagoda, are the same shape, only color, detail, body mass, the construction of the time difference. Large and small, jagged put into a large stupa, that is spectacular. There are some old already collapsed pagoda, people in the mottled in pondering over the distant history of building a tower.
Tibetan family man; is not out to work, their mission seems to merely reflect on two aspects: the construction of houses and caravan. Past, for each possession of a house must have a man go to the temple to do Zaba, which is a monk. Zaba is also a sub-level is said to the former only a bona fide practice Buddhism, and traveled to India to study Buddhist Zaba, before they can qualify for the monks.
As a result, is expanding lhakang renovated inside, and many Tibetan women lining up to one unlucky with a big rock. People coming and going to work, which, almost without a man.
A very kind of Tibetan-old mother was finishing quarrying tools, the sunshine of her smile, very mild. Obtaining her consent, I gave her a photo shoot.
A very hoarse monks坐在台阶上leisurely sun, in the color saturation of the temple murals background, look solemn Renhe. But he rejected my shooting requirements.
Out of the temple, two Tibetan-old mother sat on the floor. Finished photos, old mother held out his hand at me. I gave her two dollars. This is fair, but they never say ask for numbers.
Meandering around the temple wall by turning the barrel of the gallery, the tower is an open public grassland.
Sunny. Grasslands have been snow-capped mountains encircling completely picturesque scenery.
Photographs, I found that looking good in front of a Tibetan girl, clothing, bright, red-scarred face, beautiful eyes. She was very generous to stand my camera, let me pass a jelly a cracking whisper. I gave her five dollars. She was 12 years old, has been a lot of Chinese would say, and very polite.
Photo shoot, I intend to ride.
Caravan drivers because of concerns over customers adverse impacts to fish in, and did not happen.马帮已经实现共产主义的管理方法了：客人自己挑选马匹，或者马帮头目帮着随机挑选；一天的全部收入按马头平均分配。这样一来，原来因为抢客势同水火的马主人，人人都是一副悠闲模样。
过来一个很汉子的藏民头目，身材彪悍，扎着长发，带着墨镜，面目严峻;一副“老大”风范。 “老大”下意识地扫了我一眼，就帮我选了一匹马。我要求把缰绳给我自己驾驭，却发现这是一匹乖乖马，根本不跑。
我跳下来，要求换马，换一匹能跑的马。
老大迟疑着挑了一匹高头大马。
马的女主人说：“摔下来我们不负责任的。”
I nodded.
“你这种鞋子，摔下来根本脱不了马蹬。你摔下来，马还会继续跑，知道吗？”
再点头。
马主人才把缰绳给我。我双脚一磕马肚子，做势扬鞭，马就一下子蹿出去了。
这是我骑过的最快的一匹马，我感觉我披散的长发已经被风扯直了，这种速度让我止不住大声吆喝起来。马快要冲上公路的时候，我开始勒缰绳。我记得在北京密云骑马的时候，最多勒三下，马就立住了。这一次我竭尽全力，勒了七八下，这匹大马才立住。公路上几个藏族小伙子一起冲我竖起大拇指。回头看看，马帮已经很远了。
拨转马头，再来一次。
一看是回马群，马儿更快了。真是过瘾呀，像飞一样。
勒住马的时候，它刚好一头撞进马群。费了半天劲才把它从马群里面重新驾驭出来，再一路奔出去，飞回来。
整个草原就这一匹马在飞奔，其余的马都被主人牵着缰绳，驮着游客，慢吞吞地溜达着。我飞回来的时候，发现几乎所有的人都在看着我。 ——这个感觉真让我舒服。
下马，面目严峻的“老大”这回是微笑着走过来。 “老大”第一个问题是：“你的头发留了多久？跑起来的时候很好看。”——接着我就被几个藏民和一群藏族孩子包围了，大家都在微笑着。我感到非常得意。
我和“老大”聊了一会，让我感动的是，“老大”一边和我说话，一边慢慢地把我刚才骑马时散开的衣扣一个一个扣好，一直扣到我自己从来都不会扣住的挨近领口的那两颗——高原上的人大多看上去比实际年龄大，也许他把我看作是一个小兄弟了。
“欢迎你再来！”——给“老大”拍了一张照片后，“老大”和我拥抱作别。
告别塔公草原，原路返回。翻越折多山的时候，还是忍不住下车再度驻留。下起小雪，很遗憾。如果天气好的时候，从这里就可以看到贡嘎山主峰了。
回到康定已经是下午四点半了。又是一整天没有吃饭。
先去车站购买明早去稻城的车票。售票员说：“还不确定明天有没有去稻城的车。”去稻城的车是隔天才发一班的，按说明天应该有；但今天是不提前售票的。好在我是一个不折不扣地相信“车到山前必有路”的家伙，所以没有买到票一点都不影响我晚饭的胃口。
晚上转转康定小城。
从雪山上汇集流下的河水在晚上发出潺潺的声响，将只有一条主街道的康定划分成两部分。小城的气息和我的出生地很相似，应该是十几年前的印象了。
小河对面有一个静谧的小酒吧，名字很好听：“西藏雨”。于是一头扎进去。
我看这个酒吧除了烟灰缸和我以外，其它的东西就无所不“藏”了：柱子用写满文字的各色经幡围护，顶棚是黑白两色的西藏吉祥花纹图饰，毛石和片石装饰墙体，墙裙是去皮后的白杨枝条。到处悬挂着牦牛头骨、哈达、藏族饰物。藏式书柜里面全部是宣传藏文化以及介绍四川、云南、西藏风景的书籍、图片。
我要了一壶酥油茶。藏族小姐赠送给我一份青稞米花。
酒水单背面有一段文字“西藏雨铭”：
“中国西藏文化乃文化之家园，藏语文化博大精深，为当今世界之瑰宝。藏民族崇尚文化，并将其誉为甘露。饮其不但能长智，而且能净心。故西藏雨意为藏族文化甘露。”
喝了几口热热的酥油茶，竟然微醺。
与北京的酒吧不同，这里很安静，也没有喧嚣的或者煽情的背景音乐。
有中国人的地方，大多是嘈杂的；每一个人的嗓音也很高。记得在不同国家的几个机场，旁若无人地说话声音最大的那一群人，总会是中国人；很多公众场合引来其它人群愠怒目光的那一群人，也总会是中国人。这好像不是用“民族习惯”就可以轻易搪塞过去的现象。
这里很难得：客人们都用窃窃私语的声音聊天，整个酒吧一下子就充满了柔美的情调。这让我想起自己在土耳其的一段故事。
我第一次去土耳其伊斯坦布尔，带着一个刚毕业的师弟。设计院唯一的两个长发飘飘，性情自是相投。
晚上一起去泡酒吧——径直去了白天就看中的那家。
酒吧在马路边的胡同端头，周围挤满了古老的土耳其式小楼，地面是随意的原始石块铺砌。马路上偶尔静悄悄停驻一趟有轨小列车，再慢吞吞地以伊斯坦布尔独有的悠闲与从容缓缓驶去。马车的的地从胡同的另一头踏着轻捷的鼓点，摇响着欢快的铃铛，就从身后清脆着“叮叮当当”地走远……
视线远处一面是赫赫有名的古老的圣索非亚大教堂，另一面是与之齐名的东正教十字大教堂。夜晚使这两个教堂看上去更加古老神秘。简洁的灯光设计把海面上的海鸥吸引过来，围绕着一根根高耸入云的伊斯兰尖塔盘旋。于是一群群白色的海鸥，扇动着翅膀，激活了整个夜晚的天空。
一切都是静谧的，所有的人都在窃窃私语，不管是英语还是法语。 Waiter的声音也一例软软的。
“我觉得这个地方太美太绝了。在这个地方对一个女人说我爱你，绝对一次性搞定。”我喝了一口啤酒，点燃一支烟,，发出由衷的感慨。
师弟点点头，然后怔怔地终止了谈话。良久，冒出这样一句：
“不行，我要使劲挣钱，说什么也要带我女朋友来这儿坐坐。”
我独身，所以我笑骂了一句：“靠！去你妈的！”
一起笑了，喝酒。
第二次去伊斯坦布尔，是和设计院院长。
晚上我带着他再一次来到这个酒吧。风景依旧，一切依然静谧。
院长说：“现在的人多俗呀，结婚都到新马泰蜜月。我看远不如到这里。”
看不出这厮还有些品位。我喝了一口啤酒，点燃一支烟：“这地方太美太绝了。”
院长点点头，然后怔怔地终止了谈话。良久，冒出这样一句：
“不行，什么时候有时间了，一定要带我老婆来这儿坐坐。”
我还是独身，所以我笑骂了一句：“靠！去你妈的！”
一起笑了，喝酒。
——这地方让他们如此如出一辙，所以创造了一个很有意思的故事。
虽然没有世界级的外围风景，但是“西藏雨”有一样的静谧。这让我一边喝着酥油茶，一边胡思乱想了很多东西。
当奔腾的热血冷却下来的时候，原来我也很想找个人一起分享：
独旅甘肃青海，曾一个人走向深深的大漠黄沙。一直走到所有的方向都看不见一个人，才坐下来看落日。沙漠冷却的时候，我的血也安静了……回到宾馆，抓起电话就打给了Y——在我的概念中，只有Y可以懂得我当时的一切；只有Y才是我遇见的唯一的心灵自然。那时候分手已经整整一年，可是那一次对话的感觉依旧宛若从前。
我带着Y去过很多地方。 Y很能吃苦，也非常自然。我们旅游的时候，感觉上的高度吻合，每每让我们在无言中紧紧拥抱；我们经常会因为自然，因为对方，因为自己，一起骄傲。
Y现在独身，每年至少还会有一次远足独旅。 1米58，腰围1尺8，长发过腰的小丫头片子，就这样一个人背着个大旅行包四处晃荡。 （我说过，独旅不需要勇气，只需要真实。Y只是做Y，就象我只是做我一样。）
一个通过爱我、分手让我飞跃了两次的女人，这一辈子让我撞见了一个；即使是到了白发苍苍的时候，我也依旧承认这是一次真正的幸运。
独旅山西的时候，在平遥的一个胡同口，昏暗的路灯下孩子们正在做丢手绢的游戏，老大爷们低着头下象棋。孩子们嘻嘻哈哈围绕着老人们追躲，老人们也没有抬起头轰赶孩子们。自行车的铃声又把孩子们分到胡同两边，倏然又跑到路中央打闹起来……
这真象我的童年。我静静地站在一旁，抓起电话打给D；我想让她听听孩子们的笑声。
D不在电话那端。在那个瞬间，我想告诉她我爱她。
回北京没过多久，D就成了我的女朋友。然而我从来没有带着她真正旅游一次，因为她最强烈要求的，是一种让我围绕着她急速旋转的二人世界；她甚至让我远离亲人和朋友，我们在一起的日子，我连做风筝的可能都没有。
D是个孩子，是个让我心疼却让我无能为力的孩子。
半年多没有联系没有一句话，可是这次独旅前的夜晚，D打来电话，劝我不要因为美丽的风景就一定要亲自走近体验，那样危险。
我苦笑着说着谢谢。
我知道D曾经深深地爱过我，也曾眼睁睁看着我这样一个人从她自转的空间里面甩脱。分手的时候D说她懂我了，其实，她仅仅是懂得了一个形式。
（在稻城的时候，我买了这次独旅唯一的一件礼物，为了临行前D的一句关怀。可是直到今天，我也没有让她知道。最后我决定还是不要送给她了。）
一大壶酥油茶已经喝完了，我终于想要找个人说说话。
把手机里面的号码检索了一遍，把口袋里面的通讯录检索了一遍，却发现这一次居然找不到一个人。
原来独旅的时候，把独身的号角也吹响了。
于是，我再一次体会到傲岸的孤独，孤独的傲岸。
走出“西藏雨”，外面已经下了很长时间的雨了。
扔掉烟屁，一头扎进雨中。
About Inagi
5月5号，川藏南线。
稻城位于青藏高原和云贵高原的结合部，这里不仅有粗犷的高原雪域，还有妩媚的江南水乡。境内最高峰6032米，最低河谷仅2000米。县城海拔已经3750米。藏民约占96%，康巴人信奉佛教，崇尚自然，是真正的大自然之子。
1928年，美国植物学家、探险家Joseph.F.Rock历尽艰辛，把稻城亚丁介绍给全世界。
亚丁，被誉为“人类最后的香格里拉”。
这次独旅的选择，仅仅是因为看到了这段话。
一大早跑到车站，有车去稻城，8：00钟出发。问问司机路程，答案是500多公里山路，翻六七座海拔4000米以上的大山；晚上8：00到。
两天一班的卧铺车上，居然还是坐不满。只有四个游客，三个来自汕头，另一个就是我。其余的都是藏民。
汽车在高原上爬上来冲下去，渺小的象一个甲克虫。没走多远，就经历了朗晴、大雾、小雨、大雪好几种气候。
一路上人烟稀少。海拔高的林区，松木上寄生着大量的淡绿色树挂。植物学上说：这种树挂只在空气无污染的前提下才可以生存；是天然的空气质量的测量表。太冷了，不然一定打开车窗，好好呼吸那高浓度的负氧离子。
汕头的一男二女睡了，我则一直把眼光瞄向窗外的高原。
很多美丽的风景，都在眼前倏然而逝。这更加坚定了我的梦想：将来进藏一定要有自己的车。
聊天的时候，“汕头组”和我的交流由对话变成了提问。我也不知道是从哪一天开始，自己变成了一个看似渊博的游客。他们问题的方向，涉及到风景的、旅游方式、旅游经验的问题，和涉及到舒适度、危险度的问题，五五开。 ——我觉得和“汕头组”交流没多大意思，仅仅是在消耗时间。
独旅时遇到过很多游客，主要是来自北京、上海、广东。我很武断地根据游客的主要来源地和综合代表风格把他们划分为三派：
广东派。
广东人大多是不明白旅游三味的游客，不管去什么地方都做不到入乡随俗。住店要把热水、厕所、餐饮、服务等等问一个遍，恨不得找到一个和自己的家一模一样的宾馆。吃饭时的口头禅就是“我们那里从来不吃这个”，“我们那里从来不这样做菜”云云。旅游的时候，拍自己是第一位的，并且造型多多。有缆车决不爬山，有马匹决不走路。爬山的时候一有头疼就掉头，回家告诉朋友们我去过了看到了就可以了，第一时间放弃体验。回家总结，总是把当地的住宿餐饮无情地彻底否定一遍。他们绝不冒险，绝对以夸张的态度怕死。
我觉得广东派们不如把自己的行李从家里搬到家对面的宾馆，打开电视旅游频道看一遍，再对应买些优美图片，用制图软件把自己种种造型照片制作上去就可以了。不必跑出来旅游。
我不喜欢广东派，偏偏广东派的游客全国各地最多。
不过广东的广东派，大多是大方的，容易接触的，热心助人的。旅游以外的时候一起聊天吃饭，也算是件轻松快乐的事情。
上海派。
上海派在衣食住行上和广东派大同小异。区别是愿意体验。如果50元门票包括登山上去高山反应一下，那么就一定去高山反应一下——除非死活上不去。这里面好象和上海人天生精打细算有关系。根据情况选择徒步还是骑马。拍自己和拍风景七三对开。回家总结，把当地的住宿餐饮无情地彻底否定一遍后，顺便赞美一下（如果确实值得赞美）风景。可以冒险，但是不够坚强。
上海的上海派，不容易接触。好在我也不想接触。
上海出了一个徒步天下的壮士余纯顺，相信很多上海派都会象余秋雨说的那样：“上海人应该感谢余纯顺。”——是因为余纯顺给上海人的外延上添加了一点阳刚之气。
北京派。
北京派可以入乡随俗，甚至乐意选择吃苦的方式。随遇而安，不挑剔环境和饮食。乐意冒险，最愿意体验，并且不怕死。拍自己是最次要的，甚至不拍。只要自己有脚就不坐缆车。回家总结，最先讲的是风景和苦中有乐的故事；回答别人提问的时候，才会轻描淡写地说说住宿餐饮情况。旅游时睡眠少，所有的时间都拿来享受旅游，享受体验。可以半个月不洗澡不换衣服。决不拒绝当地人热情好客时，递过来的一碗黑乎乎的奶茶，或者一大碗酒。
我喜欢北京派。
至于我自己，当然比北京派更高一个境界了：我是独旅派，或者简称狼派。一句革命口号就可以全部概括狼派特点：
一不怕苦，二不怕死，排除万难，去争取最后的胜利。
一看就知道，“汕头组”绝对属于“广东派”，和我这样的“独旅派”没多少可以兼容的地方。概念都不一样嘛！所以聊着聊着，大家就都缄默了。
“汕头组”继续睡觉，“独旅派”继续望着窗外。
汽车到达理塘，剩下的150公里，就全是坑坑洼洼的土路了。
月亮升起来，极亮。我只在甘肃的沙漠才看见过如此皎洁明亮的月光，那一刻，才知道“大漠沙如雪，燕山月如钩”的意境。
有一个美丽的地方人们都把她向往……
啊，香巴拉并不遥远，
That's our home.
前座几个藏族少男少女，唱起优美动听的民歌。藏民真是天生的好嗓子，我陶醉了，大叫一声“好听”，一个人使劲鼓掌。 （实在好听，后来我就跟他们学会了这首歌。）
他们要我也唱，他们说你唱一首我们唱一首。
好呀，公平！
我说民歌我会的少，唱摇滚吧！唱了一首崔健的《假行僧》。 ——他们一样大声叫好，使劲鼓掌。 “汕头组”也鼓掌。
他们唱了一首藏族情歌，我接着唱许巍的《故乡》：
天边夕阳再次映上我的脸庞
再次映着我那不安的心
这是什么地方依然是如此的荒凉
那无尽的旅程如此漫长
我是永远向着远方独行的浪子
你是茫茫人海之中我的女人
在异乡的路上每一个寒冷的夜晚
这思念它如刀让我伤痛
总是在梦里我看见你无助的双眼
我的心又一次被唤醒
我站在这里想起和你曾经离别情景
你站在人群中间那么孤单
那是你破碎的心
我的心却那么旷野
你在我的心里永远是故乡
你总为我独自守候沉默等待
在异乡的路上每一个寒冷的夜晚
这思念它如刀让我伤痛
总是在梦里我看见你无助的双眼
我的心又一次被唤醒
总是在梦里看到自己走在归乡路上
你站在夕阳下面容颜娇艳
那是你衣裙漫飞
那是你温柔如水
唱着唱着，就被自己感动了；更加喜欢这首歌。看着窗外披上一层洁白轻羽的茫茫高原，我幻想有一个女人，在月光下衣裙漫飞，等着我走在归乡路上。
她应该是我未来的女人。 （因为这个片断感觉，回北京写了《迷离》。）
晚上10：00，终于到达稻城。
找个旅馆，洗澡。所有的自来水管流出来的都是热热的温泉水，洗完澡皮肤很光滑。这该是稻城得天独厚的一面了吧！
下楼找点吃的，老板一家子正在吃饭。见我就一个人，他们便热情地邀请我一道吃；我就挤坐在他们一家子里面。
他们忙着给我盛饭、夹菜、倒酥油茶，老板娘还给我开了一瓶啤酒。他们分文不收，唯一的要求是让我多说话，因为他们想学普通话。
我就询问了亚丁的旅游方式。他们回答的很仔细。 ——这就是我从不精心制作旅游计划的原因，到了一个地方，真诚地和当地人交流一下，比什么计划都强。
稻城到亚丁还有99公里更难走的山路。亚丁的海拔已经有3890米了。
我打算明天就直奔亚丁。
走进亚丁
5月6号，日瓦、亚丁。
一大早起来，在稻城转了转。几步就从这头走到另一头了。
问问去亚丁的方式，只有包车。固定价钱：400元。 ——妈的！每次独旅都为了包车钱大为光火！要是进藏的时候不是自己开车，老子就不姓杨！
“汕头组”告诉我说，他们出来的时候上网联系好了接待人，负责给他们提供交通工具；我可以和他们一起走。
哈哈，叫我怎能不坚持相信：车到山前必有路！
出发前几个藏民向我们兜售冬虫夏草。我知道五月份采集的虫草是第一季，药用价值最好的时候；很想给父母带一些，可是他们都不在北京；这些虫草都是新采的，还没有晾晒过。只好作罢。
藏区的孩子们都有虫草假，一到五月很多藏民都会上山采虫草。虫草只有一根直径一毫米左右“发丝”冒出地面，极难发现。藏民们翻山越岭，运气好的一天可以采到七八根，运气差的甚至一根都找不到。而大一些的虫草才卖到两块钱一根。
算算这些数字，再看着孩子们红通通黝黑的脸庞，我简直难以对他们的一声“叔叔”说“不”。
四个人坐进了一辆越野吉普车。虽然只有99公里，司机说要走四个半小时。
吉普车在海拔4909米的兰央拿卡山腰爆胎了，好在离贡嘎朗吉岭寺很近。
朗吉岭寺是很标准的喇嘛庙，主殿型制严谨；柱式、斗拱、檩条、窗楞雕功考究，繁复绚丽，色彩斑斓，极具宗教特色。
“汕头组”一边拍照一边奇怪相机的取景框与寺庙的墙体难以平行。我笑了，我告诉他们，寺庙墙体的向内收分，是喇嘛庙的一大特征。原因有两个：首先墙体这样的构筑方法，是高原工匠积累下来的“抗震规范”，具备良好的实际抗震性；其二，建筑墙体的四面收拢，属于建筑手法上的“视觉设计”，这样的建筑视觉上比实际的显得高大——这和天安门的视觉设计手法是完全一样的。不仅仅是寺庙，外面的藏族民居，甚至所有的高原山地式民居，墙体都有向内的收分。如果去云南丽江看看民居，这种感觉就更加强烈了。
“汕头组”恍然大悟，摁快门的速度马上加快。
亚丁之后“汕头组”还要去云南丽江、大理。我告诉他们：云南是地震多发区。大理的民居大多是圆石砌就的，如果墙体砌好了象是铁板一块，地震一来就会倒塌；所以好的墙体的粘合很有柔度，也就是大理俗语所言的“好墙如豆腐”。 ——你们到了大理，可以拍拍看。这里面的道理，很有一些太极味道呢。
这番话之后，我就变成了“汕头组”的半个解说导游。
在日瓦吃午饭。
日瓦是个很小的藏族村庄。走出日瓦，就相当于走进The Last Shangri-La。
吉普车在俄初山上稍事停驻。
从俄初山可以鸟瞰到亚丁村，十几户人家，一种风格的藏式民居。远眺，就可以看见两座披雪神山：仙乃日，夏诺多吉。
眼前的风景让我深深静默了，我可以听见自己怦然的心跳声。
我的血液开始激荡奔流。
念青贡嘎日松贡布，就在眼前！
念青贡嘎日松贡布，藏语意为：终年积雪不化的三座护法神山圣地。
念青贡嘎日松贡布方圆千余平方公里，主体部分由三座完全隔开，但是相距不远的“品”字形排列的雪峰组成。这三座雪山佛名“三怙主”，在世界佛教二十四圣地中排名第十一位。
据历史记载：公元八世纪，莲花生大师为念青贡嘎日松贡布开光，以佛教除妖降魔的三位一体菩萨为三座雪峰命名加持：
北峰仙乃日海拔6032米，为观世音菩萨。
南峰央迈勇海拔5958米，为文殊菩萨。
东峰夏诺多吉海拔5958米，为金刚手菩萨。
据《三怙主雪山志》记载：
转一次三怙主雪山，相当于念一亿嘛呢的功德。
转三次三怙主雪山，能消除屠杀八条人马的罪恶。
在帐篷里面安顿好行李，暮色降临了。
仙乃日就在眼前。云雾缭绕，遮盖了雪峰的轮廓。坐在岩石上静静地看着山峰上的云雾一层层掠过，慢慢地看到了仙乃日的面容。
一轮即将满圆的月亮升起来。
傲岸的仙乃日此刻和我一样，沐浴着浓浓月色，深深静默了。
晚餐的时候，遇见“汕头组”和我来之前，营地唯一的游客。很亲切的是，他也是一个独行侠，来自成都。
太多的共同点让我们一见如故，真真“相逢何必曾相识”！
结识这个独行侠，是我这次独旅的收获之一。
回到北京，我才发现我们之间居然没有互通姓名，没有互留地址。我们的彻夜长谈，肆意放歌都是直奔主题；似乎把俗世的套路想也没想地就抛到了脑后。我们快乐的是：月光下、火炉旁，对面有一双互相知道的眼睛。
那两个夜晚，我找到了可以与我的感觉匹敌的朋友。 “惺惺相惜”的感觉和知音的感觉，让我不再孤独。
以前旅游的时候，即使有一些朋友做伴，我也会感到孤独；就象在城市里朋友们的聚酒一样，我的思想会在某个瞬间独自游离出热闹的氛围。那种时候，周围的一切都是轻飘飘的一派陌生。我象是一个面目生硬的木偶，心里面闪烁着冰冷的生铁气质。
Y和我旅游的时候，我从没有感觉到孤独。我们之间，一体的东西太多了。以至于很多朋友都对我们用过“绝配”的字眼，很多朋友都因为我们最终的分手黯然神伤。
一个留美的师弟说：“我从不相信生活中真会有“神雕侠侣”，你们让我相信了三年。”
一个学油画的维吾尔族朋友——他的作品在美国和加拿大很有市场——是我和Y几年共同的朋友，一次聚会居然当着Y老公的面问我们：“你们怎么会分手？你们就应该永远在一起！你们的分手让我痛苦。”
好几个朋友，在我忧伤的时候陪我喝酒，往往比我还要先喝醉。
我不相信还有这样的女人；至少，我不相信还会遇到。
以后，我就习惯独旅了。
独旅是肆意狂放的，贴和着我的深层性格。
独旅是孤独的和傲岸的。
独旅是我。
没有鲜花的时候，独旅就是最我的我了。
我总在心灵纯净的时候，想起我爱过的两个截然不同的女人；想起我和她们的一些动人的故事。 ——因为这个原因，我很喜欢朴树的《那些花》：
那片笑声让我想起我的那些花
在我生命每个角落静静为我开着
我曾以为我会永远守在她身旁
今天我们已经离去在人海茫茫
她们都老了吧
她们在哪里呀
幸运的是我曾陪她们开放
有些故事还没讲完那就算了吧
那些心情在岁月中已经难辨真假
如今这里荒草丛生没有了鲜花
好在曾经拥有你们的春秋和冬夏
她们都老了吧
她们还在开吗
我们就这样各自奔天涯
成都的这个小伙子比我小一岁，说话声音柔和而深沉；白天黑夜总是戴着一顶休闲遮阳帽。我不知道他的名字，游记中只好给他个代号，叫做“帽子”。
“帽子”来这儿已经半个月了，周围的藏民都认识他。于是晚上“帽子”带我和“汕头组”去拜访一处藏家，并且叮嘱我们带些小礼物。
亚丁刚开发了两年，这里拿钱什么也买不到。只好把自己旅行所带的药品拿出一部分来。 “帽子”告诉我说，这里的药品奇缺，药品是最好的礼物了。
没有电，也不需要电筒；因为月光足够光亮。
“帽子”甫一敲门，里面就传来藏獒凶狠的狂吠。 ——藏獒是世界上最凶猛的犬类。真正纯种的藏獒只认一个养它的主人，即使是主人的妻儿也一概不认，何况我们呢！
打开门，就看见藏獒做势冲扑，血红着眼珠子。拴它的铁链子固然结实，我只是怕铁链那一头被它扯弯的象一张弓的胳膊粗细的树不够坚韧。
“帽子”为了这次独旅，在成都的时候学了一些藏语，这下派上了用场。藏民把我们引进屋。
藏民居通常是三层：首层放饲料圈牲口；二层放佛堂，火塘，是生活起居的地方；三层存放青稞谷物。
这就是一家典型的民居。我们爬上二层，七八个藏民正席地围坐在火塘边；大家一起礼貌的“扎西德勒”后，我们席地坐在了待客的火塘右侧。 ——昏暗的灯火下，呈现的是几近原始社会的场景。
“帽子”告诉我说，藏民男子除了盖房子外基本不干体力活，所以一样有汉人的“重男轻女”。但是当家的一定是家庭里面的老大，不管是男是女。 “帽子”指指老大，我就把药品送给她。
当家的很高兴，站起来给我们现打酥油茶。看到黑黝黝的酥油茶桶，黑黝黝的杵杆，当家的黑黝黝的衣裙、手臂，打出来的黑黝黝的酥油茶；“汕头组”几个就只好“感情浅，舔一舔”了。我记得以前看过的书上说，藏民招待你酥油茶的时候，至少喝上两碗以上，主人才会满意。再说，我属于不折不扣入乡随俗的家伙，于是主人一客气用藏语说喝茶，我就喝。不知不觉喝了七八碗。
“帽子”告诉我说可以拍照，我就站起来拍了几张。火塘对面有一个藏族姑娘，十五六岁的样子，很漂亮。可是我一举起相机，她就遮住自己的脸。 “帽子”告诉我说，老在藏民家里串，前几日有人给说了一个藏族女孩，比这个女孩子还要漂亮很多。
我笑：“那就娶来做老婆呀！”
“帽子”也笑：“我正在犹豫呢！”——看样子，他好像还真的是在犹豫。
“帽子”指指火塘里面一大锅冬瓜，说是自己昨天送给他们的。这里除了土豆什么也没有了，所以亚丁的藏民们吃饭几乎没有菜，每天都是藏粑或者青稞饼，就着几口酥油茶。送其它的他们也不知道怎么做，所以就只好送冬瓜。
“帽子”说送点菜的原因，是因为那个十五六岁的藏族女孩子正在生病。
我问“帽子”哪儿来的冬瓜。 “帽子”说：每天他都给下山去稻城的司机一张纸条，托他们下次上山把上面写的东西再带上来。这样他每一次去藏家坐坐，都不会空手而去。就这样把这里的藏家转遍了，大家对他也都很好。
我知道，稻城也根本没有蔬菜，蔬菜都是从外面运来的。我忽然觉得，我应该尊敬这个始终戴着帽子的成都小伙子。
这家藏民的儿子有一个做了扎巴，是“帽子”新认识的朋友。正在聊天的时候，他回来了。是一个很帅的藏族小伙子，难得的是会一些简单的汉语。
“帽子”说这家伙最近不想做扎巴了，估计是爱上了一个姑娘。上次看见扎巴，扎巴还说想喝酒。
“帽子”象变戏法一样从怀里掏出一瓶白酒——无疑也是从稻城带上山的。扎巴把酒倒在手心里，舔了舔，笑了。笑的时候一口雪白的牙齿。
扎巴拿来几个碗。 “汕头组”不但不想喝，还想走人了。 “帽子”和我相视一笑，各自指了指自己面前的碗。
我记得书上说过：到藏民家做客喝酒，最开始的时候，要用右手中指蘸酒，向空中弹洒三次，然后满杯饮干。
扎巴，“帽子”和我端起碗，敬天敬地敬父母，然后一饮而尽。
主人家高兴了，扎巴也笑了。 “汕头组”唯一的那个老爷们儿，低头看了看那一碗始终没有喝完的酥油茶；又看了看“帽子”和我面前重新斟满的酒。
They began to eat.青稞饼从这边地上传递到另一边地上。
在现代人的眼里，他们的生活何止是单调清苦！可是，一家人围坐着吃饭的时候，每一个人眼里面都是平和而从容的；每一个人都是快乐的。我不知道我们这些现代人，还有什么无病呻吟的理由？
我们都应该感恩生活。
返回营地，夜已深。
“汕头组”第一时间钻进睡袋。我拿了烟，走到帐篷外的火炉旁坐下，给“帽子”一根烟。
顶着月光，围着火炉，“帽子”和我神聊。
“帽子”没有女朋友，和我一样不愿意存钱。存钱是为了提高生活质量，可是我们现在的花钱已经是在做自己最想做的事情了。 “帽子”的钱几乎全用在了旅游上。这一次他把辛苦工作了两年的钱全带出来了，并且辞去了工作。因为“帽子”要在这最后的香格里拉一个人呆到十月底，甚至呆到大雪封山前。然后下山去中甸、云南的丽江、大理、昆明；然后返回成都找工作、挣钱，再出来独旅。
我知道，“帽子”是用真正的全部家当，来完成这一次半年之旅。他把生命分为两个段落：挣钱纯粹是为了实现梦想的蛰伏期，旅游是点燃绽放了自己的生命，是自我意义上的真正怒放。
又一次：独旅不需要勇气，只需要真实。浪漫不需要勇气，只需要真实。如果你是浪漫的，你做你自己，你就足够浪漫了。
“帽子”到远处抱了一捆柴回来，把火炉的火加大。我们两个人的脸，都被火映的红彤彤的。
“帽子”把每天的日程都安排得满满的，几座雪山都已经爬了很多遍。这样各种天气下的风景都看过了。有时候还和采集虫草的藏民一道翻山越岭。
从山上下来，就去不同的藏民家串门。或者去山脚边那个只有小学一二年级的学校义务扫盲。 “帽子”说他最近去了几次学校，孩子们都上山采集虫草去了，一个人也没有。
我说，三毛在撒哈拉的时候，也帮沙漠的孩子们习字。
我知道，“帽子”在成都挣两年的钱实现这样半年的独旅，我在北京大概只需要挣半年；可是我没有过象他这样的独旅。
“帽子”不是在这里旅游，他是在这里生活。
我很羡慕“帽子”，我知道过不了多久，我也将以生活的方式进行独旅。
那一夜，我们交流了很多故事。
月亮从仙乃日雪山的头顶上，慢慢爬过去了……
（回到北京，曾经和KOKOKOKO一起去三里屯藏酷酒吧喝酒。谈及此事，KOKO说了一个观点：当地的人并不愿意在当地停留，我们之所以从容，是因为我们仅仅呆几天。这不是很严肃的。所以这样的旅游也并不纯粹。谈到“帽子”这样的方式，这位小轩的第一独行女大侠，很是钦佩，并且向往。
和KOKO聊天非常轻松，比如关于我所言的“独旅不需要勇气，只需要真实”，KOKO完全明白。
我答应过不可以宣传和我一起吃鱼头时候，KOKO是如何风卷残云的。于是小轩的读者要少知道一个可乐的故事。 )
念青贡嘎日松贡布
5月7号，仙乃日、央迈勇、夏诺多吉，洛狨牛场，牛奶海、五色海。
从营地到洛狨牛场有15公里的山路，通常是骑马。从洛狨牛场到海拔4500米的牛奶海、海拔近5000米的五色海，就只能徒步登山了。
骑马到了海拔3880米的冲古寺的时候，我发现自己并没有什么高原反应。索性下马步行，这样也方便拍照。
仙乃日就在身旁傲然端坐。
夏诺多吉也露出了雄健刚毅、神采奕奕的面目来。
天气并不好，不适合拍照。 ——我于是很想象“帽子”那样呆些日子，看看各个季节、各种天气下的念青贡嘎日松贡布。
马队到了洛狨牛场，那里有一片开阔的草原。
我又想骑马飞奔了。找了一匹马，结果怎么也跑不起来。登山的驮马已经不会飞奔了。其实人也一样，习惯了一种态势，就不容易再改变。
从央迈勇雪山上融化的雪水，滋润了这片草原的生机。草原上都是一群一群的牦牛。正在拍雪山、溪水、牦牛群，才发现面前有三个小牦牛正好奇地抬头看着我。最近的那一只，花白相间，很可爱——赶紧给它们来一张合影。
在洛狨牛场饱餐一顿，准备登山了。据说往返一趟最快也要五个小时。
刚才给我牵马的扎巴认识路，他打算带我们上山。似乎不用说客套话，因为对于信奉藏传佛教的信徒，“转一次三怙主雪山，相当于念一亿嘛呢的功德”。
营地的老板说自己想上去看看。他的两个小女儿也打算一起上去。
“汕头组”带着氧气袋，虽然一脸忐忑，也都信誓旦旦地说要登上海拔最高的五色海。
扎巴微微一笑，带着我们出发了。
我紧紧跟在扎巴后面，决定使用和他一样的步频。
还没有开始登山，仅仅走出300米，“汕头组”就叫“暂停”。如此几次，我已经不耐烦了。照这样下去顶多爬到牛奶海，天就得黑。
我问扎巴山路，扎巴说最好不要一个人登山，万一高原反应厉害了，周围没有人会很危险。
营地老板找到了一个折衷方案：扎巴、两个小女孩和我先上，他在后面陪“汕头组”。
就这样，把还没有开始登山就满脸通红的蜗牛们给甩了。
一直走到央迈勇雪山脚下，我和两个生活在亚丁的小女孩还都可以跟上扎巴的脚步。回首，“汕头组”已经变成蚂蚁了。
在山脚下最后一片开阔平整的河滩小憩。
有一对情侣请我帮着拍照。他们说上不去了，只好拍照留念了。我看见那个女孩子还有点精气神，老爷们已经一派萎靡了。想想他们出来也许并不是享受风景，仅仅是换个地方享受爱情，也就不为他们感到可惜了。
一个汉子满脸堆笑问我路，汉语还说不利索。好在我还会一点儿英语，终于给他讲清楚了。再一问，他妈的这个英语还不如我的家伙原来是个日本鬼子！
我说你要是早告诉我你是鬼子，我就不帮你了。
小鬼子一脸茫然。
妈的，在稻城看新闻，这帮王八蛋们正在修改日文历史教科书！靠，能怪老子说话不客气嘛！
Continue climbing.小女孩子看见刚才我讲了几句鸟语，就死活要学几句旅游日常用语。我说：“第一句，死啦死啦地！”
小女孩子们大笑。
我说：“第二句，DOLLAR！”并告诉他们专门对付鬼子用的。
她们学会了，转头就说：“师父，你住在我们营地，一天30块，我们也要DOLLAR呢！”
哈哈，这两个黄毛丫头！
说笑渐少，因为张大嘴巴已经不是为了说话了，是为了大口大口地呼吸。
头开始疼起来，两个太阳穴象是被锐器死死顶住了一般。扎巴步频依旧均匀，我们三个则是走走停停。
从山上偶尔下来几个游客，互相都会很礼貌地打招呼，相互加油。也许是因为纯净的自然，把人们都净化了；也因为出来旅游，人们都真实了轻松了。
终于到达牛奶海。海拔4400米了。
对面的雪山，一大半已经在视线以下了。茫茫雪原。
立脚处，零零散散的都是雪。抬眼，天似乎压的很低。觉得向上跳跳，就可以摸到一手蓝色。
一泓迷人的深蓝，令人难以置信地平躺在雪山脚下。很纯净的蓝色，因为没有污染，非常透明，清澈。
这就是牛奶海。据说到秋天，湖水会变成乳白色。
我沿着牛奶海走了一圈。走完了才发现我和扎巴走的方向刚好相反。我才想起，不管是进了寺庙，还是绕行神山、圣湖，或者摇动经桶、法轮，都应该顺时针。
一对雪鸭飞过来，落在湖面上。
再向上爬，就是海拔4800米的山脊，可以鸟瞰五色海。
登了没几步，就上气不接下气了。觉得头晕，太阳穴疼的厉害。心跳加速，同时恨不能多长几个鼻孔……
平时根本不在话下的几百米，居然要歇十几阵子才登上来。回头看看，牛奶海已经很小了。近前就是雪山。
如此贴近的雪山让我充满了触摸欲，如此贴近的天空也让我充满了触摸欲。我还要继续登高……
扎巴仰视着告诉我，我站的高度已经超过5000米海拔了。确实，我站的地方，已经几乎没有裸露的岩石了。仰望陡峭的雪山，厚厚的积雪在阳光下居然透出光泽神奇的浅蓝色；这种蓝色太纯净了，几乎是白色的神奇渐变。云就压在积雪上，和雪山一体。雪山的顶峰虚无飘渺，一派朦胧。
我还想更加接近，我要触摸！
雪已经没过脚踝，再向前走两步，雪就已经过膝了。我只好停步。我知道这看似平坦的雪面，肯定是越走越深的；不出几步，我就会被雪埋没。
我伸出手，抚摸面前的雪。
我扬起手，抚摸头顶的云。
向下看，就是五色海。因为山石的多彩，水色也多彩。
我走下来，坐在山梁上；看着四面环绕的雪山，看着天上悠悠飘掠的浮云；看着扎巴坐在岩石上诵经……
冷。扎巴说要下山了。
我看见“汕头组”才刚刚攀上牛奶海。
他们决定不再向上了，五色海太高了。让我等一等一起下山。
我连下山也不愿意和“汕头组”一起。
下山的时候，头依旧很疼，但是很快就回到了洛狨牛场。
喝了两碗热热的酥油茶，才算缓了口气。
进来一个藏胞，问我会不会说英语。原来是四个美国女留学生，和藏胞就住宿费讨价还价。互相之间谁也不知道在说什么。
呵呵，藏民已经优惠的一晚上25元的标准，老美的“美美”们还要20元才肯罢休。我其实很欣赏不少老外的旅游方式，前些天在康定，我正在享受晚餐的时候，看见玻璃窗外面一个身材魁梧的鬼佬在小摊上买了几个包子，顺势坐在马路牙子上猛吃。按说他们的生活标准比“汕头组”高，也没见他们挑剔。
可是我还是向着我的同胞。我告诉“美美”们有20元的，在山下，走路还要3个小时。 25元是我的朋友们的“LAST PRICE”。
“美美”们只好就范。回答了她们的一些问题后，我告诉她们最好还是带上氧气袋。 “美美”们居然全体摇头。她们说自己在昆明学汉语，从大理、丽江、中甸过来，已经基本习惯高原了。
等了良久，“汕头组”还没有下来，我告诉扎巴我想先下山了，我要去冲古寺。我告诉扎巴，有营地老板陪着“汕头组”呢！
扎巴似乎理解让我和“汕头组”一起游玩的差强人意，也知道我可以自己驾驭，就只好备了两匹马。
我发现扎巴再走过来时经过的玛尼堆的时候，总是选择左侧一边。这样其实每一个玛尼堆，扎巴都完成了一个“顺时针”。 ——因为自己骑马，这一回就彻底印象深刻了。
快到冲古寺的时候，扎巴遇见一群认识的马帮。于是下马歇息。
再度上马，才发现远远的，“汕头组”骑着马下山而来。
只好再下马等他们。
等他们下马休息，我才看见：“汕头组”唯一的老爷们，已经是口吐白沫了；一个小姐已经晕乎乎不知所以，只剩下一个胖一点的似乎还精神。 ——毕竟是一起上山的，心头一软，就决定陪他们回山下营地；明天再游冲古寺。
怕他们晕乎乎的会睡去从马上摔下来，下山一路上就不断地吆喝着提醒他们。实在不行，就只好扯着喉咙给他们唱北京摇滚……
忽然马帮停步不走了。一问才知道，营地老板的两个小女儿，在央迈勇雪山上捡了一块造型很奇特的石头；要带回山下营地。
扎巴面目严肃地说：神山上的石头是不可以拿走的。
营地老板怎么说，马帮就是不走。无奈，只好把石头留在仙乃日山脚下。
扎巴说：只要还没有走出念青贡嘎日松贡布，就没问题。
我带马过去，安慰了一下两个撅着嘴巴的小家伙，小家伙们也就不闹了。
我看见扎巴笑了，一声吆喝，马队继续行进。
走来一个徒步上山的女孩子，背着沉沉的旅行包；甜甜地和我们打招呼：“你们好！”
呵呵，感觉好极了！于是我大声说：“妹妹，加——油——呀——！”
女孩子也大声说：“好——的——！谢——谢——！”
回到营地，“汕头组”立即钻睡袋。
一抬头，才发现昨天被云雾笼罩的神山仙乃日，终于露出了山顶完整的轮廓。马上拿起相机拍下来。
我把钱交给扎巴，马帮的人就地席坐。分完钱，就拿出藏粑、青稞饼，就着一点酒吃饭。
扎巴说，你比他们强多了。来，喝点酒！
我也席地而坐，拿过酒瓶，猛嘬一口；然后跑回去拿烟，和他们分抽。就这样一直喝到“帽子”跑过来叫我回营地吃晚饭。
月光洒落下来，居然还飘着一点雪花。
“帽子”把炉火拨旺，递给我一只烟；问了问玩的情况。
我给“帽子”说了说我自己瞎分的三种旅游“流派”，“帽子”很是赞同。
“帽子”说自己今天去扫盲，“虫草假”已经结束了，结果学校还是一个人也没有。后来只好一个人跑到山崖上独坐了半天。
闲聊的时候，“帽子”告诉我说，过了折多山的新都桥，有天葬台。他自己去看过，但是没有赶上天葬。
I rely on!我要去看天葬台。
“帽子”还说可以拍照，包括天葬仪式都可以拍。
这下我受不了了，我马上修改了计划。原计划是回到稻城后继续南下去中甸，现在我决定返回康定，去新都桥看天葬！
营地老板的两个小女孩跑过来，和我们两个一起围着篝火。小女孩子要求我们唱歌，于是大家轮流唱。
越唱嗓门越大。我说：最好把“汕头组”从睡袋里面全唱出来，“帽子”和小女孩子哈哈大笑，连连点头。于是找了一首大家全会唱的《国际歌》：
起来，饥寒交迫的奴隶！
起来，睡袋里受苦的人们！ !
返回稻城
5月8号，冲古寺，珍珠海，稻城。
早上说去冲古寺，“汕头组”只有那个胖女孩响应。另外两个我看已经活过来了，却死活不愿意动了。
我不明白他们为什么不坚持一下，也许以后就不十分惧怕高原了。毕竟，冲古寺的海拔只有3880米。
看着我冲着他自己的马走过来，扎巴开心地笑了。
我告诉胖女孩，你今天选的和你昨天骑的都是一匹骡子，不是马。胖女孩下来，叫嚷着说自己来一趟，不可以连马都没有骑过。于是我帮她跳了一匹高头大马；看着她面带犹豫，我告诉她，越大的马越稳越好骑。她才敢爬上去。
冲古寺位于仙乃日雪山脚下，是一片断垣残壁。
传说，高僧却杰贡觉加错为了终身供奉神山、弘扬佛法，在此修建寺庙。因动土挖石而触怒神灵，灾祸降临四方百姓，麻风病流行。却杰贡觉加错终日念经诵佛，施展法力，乞求神灵降灾于自己，免除百姓疾苦。他的慈悲之举感动神灵，终于百姓平安；他自己则身患麻风病圆寂。为了赎罪，却杰贡觉加错临终遗言，要求把自己的遗体倒立着埋入自己建造的寺庙中。于是，寺庙僧人每日薰香念经，纪念他的大恩大德。
因为这段故事，我在进寺参观的时候，始终带着一种尊敬的心理。
还是典型的藏族寺庙，型制很小。传来很清脆的铃铛声，是扎巴又在转动庙里面的大法轮了。
走出寺庙，我发现窗台上摆放的玛尼石很好看，顶部的一块雕刻模仿人的头盖骨，就拍了几张细部。
然后，开始下雪了。
攀到珍珠海，雪已经很大了。
我记得从北京出来的时候，大街上已经有很多五颜六色的裙子了。出营地的时候我已经把所带的厚衣服都穿上了，还是冷。不由得想起白居易的一首诗：
人间四月芳菲尽，
山寺桃花始盛开。
常恨春归无觅处，
不知转入此中来。
白乐天开心是因为进得山来多享受了一季春天；我虽然稀里糊涂从夏天跑回到冬天，也是一样开心呀！
珍珠海周围就看不到什么景观了，白茫茫的全是鹅毛大雪。
湖边的大树上，缠绕着一些哈达、经幡；枯树枝伸进湖面，别有一番味道。头发已经全湿了，更加冷。
（回到北京洗出照片，才发现拍摄的雪景很象淡彩画。）
浑身湿透回到营地，赶紧围着篝火烤衣服。
只顾着和“帽子”道别，结果外套袖口上烤破了一个大洞。这件陪着我五进北非的衣服，看样子就此寿终正寝了。
想再看一眼面前的仙乃日雪山，大雪弥漫，什么也看不见。
别了，念青贡嘎日松贡布！
别了，最后的香格里拉！
坐上吉普车回稻城。我要求在亚丁村停一小会儿。
这是个有十几户藏家的村子，房屋大多是标准的三层藏式民居；只在窗子的洗部、入口的细部、屋檐装饰的细部上有些微差。很适合画速写，可惜我没有时间，也没有象从前旅行那样带着画具。
一户人家门口前面站着一个藏族小丫头，笑起来天真烂漫，一副落落大方又稍含羞怯的模样，很是可爱。马上遭到了我和“汕头组”的相机大围攻。
“汕头组”也有自己的可爱之处，他们大方，有爱心。两个女孩子马上把自己的零食一古脑地塞到小女孩手中。
一路大雪，其实很难看见路。
司机说，雪再大一点，就封山了。
99公里的雪路，走了六个半小时。下午五点，我们回到了稻城。
安顿好地方，放下行李就往外跑。天还没有黑，我还可以看看稻城的杨树林、看看稻城的河滩、看看稻城的藏式民居。
为了保护相机，只好买了一把雨伞。
沿着河滩溯流而上，四周全是雪山了。没有阳光，杨树林拍不出好的照片，只好折回城里。
城里的藏式民居明显比亚丁村的房子阔绰考究，院子也更大，窗户入口屋檐的装饰也更为繁复精细。但是由于拥挤，也少了亚丁村的闲适与从容。
我发现，如果天气好，在稻城能够拍摄不少可以出彩的照片。可惜，我这一路，大部分情况下，天气都不是很好。
我告诉“汕头组”，我修改了旅行计划：明天我不去中甸了，我要走回头路，回新都桥，看天葬。
晚饭过后我去订票。
然后打电话给公司请假，理由很简单：大雪封山，我回不去北京了。我不想讲太多废话。
在亚丁，手机是没有任何信号的。接收到老哥的手机短信，赶紧给老哥打电话，告诉他我还活着。
回宾馆的时候，看见街上有一家藏式茶室。我问宾馆值班，值班告诉我，那不是我想象的表演藏族民族歌舞的地方，就是歌舞厅；有小姐的歌舞厅。
我知道了，这不是类似康定“西藏雨”的地方。我已经听出来了，歌舞厅里面传出来的歌声，是腐朽绵软的靡靡之音。
值班告诉我，小小一个稻城，已经有八家这样的歌舞厅了。
也就是说，出租车都没有的稻城，已经有八家捷足先登的色情场所了。
稻城，开发仅仅两年的香格里拉，人类最后的香格里拉！
其实，人类已经没有香格里拉了。
如果有，仅存在于心灵。
索性不出门了，洗洗睡。
月圆之夜。
月光刚好洒在脸上，远处山上，传来几声狼嗥……
停驻新都桥
5月9号，新都桥。
一大早起来，天居然放晴了！雪未化，绝对是个拍照片的好天气。
拿着票我就开始犯犹豫：票是没法退了，走还是不走？
看看时间，还有四十分钟才发车；干脆不吃早饭，去拍照。
太阳光很刺眼，颜色很暖。月亮在西边山顶上悬挂着，有点无精打采的味道。因为光线强烈，景观层次分明。
也来不及讲究构图了，只有一通猛拍。反正我不是摄影高手，上帝会原谅我有时候要浪费胶卷。
7：30，汽车驶出稻城。
天边的云层压的很低，也也了了地延伸出一条长长的彩带。我几乎想叫司机停车了。
无奈，只好打开车窗，把风景草草记录下来。
旁座的老兄在如此颠簸的车上居然还在看微积分，实在是佩服。一问，才知道是稻城的小学教师，去康定参加成人高考。
他叫桑吉扎西。聊天中知道了几件有意思的事情。
有一次，桑吉在宿舍外面的草地上一边晒太阳一边备课，就在回屋子打完墨水回来准备继续的时候，发现一只牦牛已经把他的教材书给吃掉了一半。桑吉当时哭笑不得，以后就养成了把所有的书用塑料膜包好的习惯。
桑吉喜欢喝酒，往往不到月末薪水就用光了，就只好去河边打鱼吃。稻城乡下大约有50%的水葬，但是居然有不少鱼庄。桑吉说鱼很好吃，极富营养，也很容易抓到。但是吃的时候，绝对不能想。
（记得KOKOKOKO的西藏游记有一段吃鱼的故事，不知道她吃的时候想不想？后来回北京看见KOKO，问她，KOKO说：你吃鸡不？我说吃。KOKO说，那鸡还吃小虫子呢！弄得我张口结舌！）
桑吉教的是初中。有时候，女学生跑来请几天假的理由是：回家结婚。桑吉说自己总是不知道是该批准还是不该批准。
最后桑吉说，政府打算今年大雪封山前把稻城去亚丁的土路全部修成柏油路，那时候欢迎你再来！
汽车在雪原上蠕动，一路上有好几辆翻倒在路旁的汽车。
阳光强烈。我发现我的鼻子开始爆皮了。 ——这是不是独旅的又一个小小的缺陷？如果带上个小妞妞，估计一定有防晒霜用。
因为大雪，回去路上的风景，和来时路上的风景相比，各有千秋。
晚上5：00，汽车到达新都桥，把我一个人撂在路旁。
新都桥是从康定翻越折多山进入藏族聚居区的第一个小镇，沿着公路两旁布排了一些简陋的房屋，弯弯曲曲延伸了200多米。镇子上大多是服饰鲜明的藏民，女人们衣着鲜艳，男人们佩着藏刀。
小镇有一些藏式民居，却不够地道；汽车站附近都是两层的没有任何味道的简单建筑，混合在一起，构成了不伦不类的街道风格。
下雨了，我想找个藏家投宿。
问了几家，主人都笑着说，你还是住汽车站招待所吧！
自己也索然。站在新都桥上看下雨下雪后渐渐涨大的水势。良久，才发现身旁站着一个藏族小伙子，一直冲着我笑。
问候之后，才知道他是初中生，不想上课，溜出来玩。他带我找到了汽车站招待所值班室，他说那是新都桥最好的招待所了。
住宿条件非常简陋，除了床就彻底家徒四壁了。我倒是很满意那两床厚厚的被子，估计晚上我是不会受冻了。
问服务员，她说从没有听说过这里有天葬台。
我反笑：你是汉人吧？
吃过晚饭，问街上的藏民。回答是有，就在瓦泽乡居里寺旁边。离新都桥还有十几公里的土路。
小镇没有路灯，黑乎乎的。也没有兴趣再转转，于是掉头回去洗洗睡。
天葬台
5月10号，瓦泽乡居里寺。
我一点也不认为天葬是残忍的事情，因为完全用一种文化去评判另一种文化，往往是南辕北辙。但是我还是担心自己的生理机能没有这样的理性，于是就没有吃早饭。
包了一辆车去瓦泽，司机是个藏族小伙子。他说自己不愿意看天葬，看了心里受不了。我问：“恕我冒昧，如果让你选择死后的葬法，你选什么？”——他咧嘴一笑：“随便！”——倒干脆！
车一直开到居里寺山门，天葬台就在临近寺庙的山谷之中。
山顶上都是雪。走了几步，眼前有四座破旧的白塔，外皮已经斑驳剥落了。白塔正对面的草地上，平铺着一块六七平米见方的破旧的水泥台子，就是天葬台。
走近天葬台的路上，有不少很小的坟冢。站在天葬台边缘，我有一种怎么也形容不出来的感觉。
沉默中，我看着这个轮回的终点，轮回的始点。
一个小小的水泥台子，正中央有一块弧形凹陷的石头。应该是放置、肢解过无数尸身的地方。
弧形凹陷的石头一端，立着一块方形断面的长条石，高起台面40公分。应该是拴系脖子固定头颅的地方。
水泥台面靠近长条石的一角，是一块大石头。大石头上面有一个圆形的凹陷，应该是敲碎过无数头骨的地方。
天葬台边缘，零乱地放置着斧子、大铁锤、小铁锤、几把藏刀、几把剪刀。
再远一些的草地上，有几根长长的鸟羽。最大的一根，足有半米长。
破旧的天葬台，却非常清洁。
仰望天空，几只苍鹰缓缓盘旋……
我异样着说不出味道的感觉，异样着说不出味道的默然。然后拍摄照片。
远处，是或旧或新的玛尼堆、白塔、经幡。
一群牦牛缓缓从天葬台踱过，低着头，悠闲地啃着今岁刚刚冒出的嫩绿的新芽。
居里寺里走出来一位温文尔雅的喇嘛，在山坡上面候我。 （后来我知道他的名字叫泽仁扎西。）
我问：来这里做天葬仪式的藏民多吗？
泽仁始终是微笑的模样，他告诉我说这个天葬台管着折多山西边很大一片藏民聚居区。最多的时候，一天要举行七八个天葬仪式；但是有时候七八天也不会有一个仪式。
我很惭愧。因为泽仁知道我问这个问题的原因。
泽仁还是很敦厚地微笑着回答我其它的问题。
从泽仁的口中，我知道了一些天葬的具体仪式。 （考虑到对于藏民俗的尊重，我在本段文字不做展开描述。）天葬的时候，点燃佛香，四个喇嘛开始念经。山顶上秃鹫就会出来，有的慢慢接近天葬台，有的在天葬台上空盘旋。肢解完尸身，把骨头一一敲碎，混合着藏粑、酥油捏成团。然后飞鸟会下来吞食，先是个头最大的秃鹫，然后是老鹰，最后是乌鸦。大一些的秃鹫，立直身子大概快有一人高了，所以几只秃鹫就基本上可以把一具尸身吃干净了。
我问：“今天会有天葬吗？”
泽仁笑了：“不会有了。藏族风俗，如果有天葬，必须在天亮以前把尸身运到天葬台前停放。然后才到居里寺请我们来念经，主持仪式。”
我咬咬牙，继续问：“明天会有吗？”
“还不知道。只有天葬师会至少提前一天知道。”泽仁还是一派缓缓道来的语速：“你可以明天再来看看。”
放牧牦牛的藏民插话说：“明天早上有，因为昨天瓦泽死了一个藏民。”
泽仁说：“那么明天应该会有天葬。藏民习俗，死了人，三天就要安葬。”
我最后一个问题是：“明天我可不可以一边看一边拍照？”
泽仁说：“可以，但是一般不要拍人。不过，就你一个人也没有关系，明天我和主人家说说就可以了。”
牧民笑了：“你不知道吧？泽仁就是这个天葬台的负责人呢。”
泽仁带着我参观居里寺。
居里寺是藏传佛教里面的黄派寺院，我马上想起了独旅西北时看过的青海塔尔寺——是因黄派创始人宗喀巴大师的衣冠成庙，那是整个西北最大的喇嘛庙了。泽仁一听说我去过塔尔寺，毫不掩饰自己羡慕的神情；然后径直带着我走到宗喀巴大师的画像前面。宗喀巴大师画像旁边，就是极富爱国热情的班禅额尔得尼.确吉坚赞的照片，还有他曾来居里寺讲经坐过的诵经台法座。
居里寺建筑的序列感相当精彩，有几面整体收分的大面积山墙极具匠心；尤其是收分渐变的窗子，其比例划分完全可以变换材料使用在现代建筑设计之中。
于是，在天葬台和居里寺，不由自主地拍了好几卷片子。
主殿门厅处立着一块大木板，曾经是藏民磕长头的地方。大木板上深深凹陷着两个脚印，以及长长的两道深沟。这块木板，承接了多少藏民们虔诚的膜拜！
走出主殿，楼上传出金钹铜铃等法器之声。泽仁见我驻足倾听，就索性破例带我上楼去藏经阁看个明白。
几个喇嘛正在念金刚降魔经。正觉得不便打扰，准备下楼之时，泽仁却说可以给他们拍照。有意思的是，我把相机掏出来之后，几个喇嘛马上端正了坐姿，挺直腰杆，抖擞精神，同时提高了嗓门。
我偷偷地乐了，告诉泽仁：“我也想给你拍几张。”
拍完了，我让泽仁把地址写下来，过些日子会把照片寄给他们。
走出居里寺，泽仁说：“居里寺90%的建筑都是后来新建的，有一些历史悠久的寺庙，在文革的时候都被破坏了。”
又是文革！
我想起几年前在云南丽江，一位仙风道骨的纳西族老翁边看我画速写边告诉我：早先的丽江，有巧夺天工的排水系统。入夜，有专司其职的人在古城边的溪流下游关闸蓄水，让溪水渐渐漫上街道尺余；然后进出水平衡，绝不会淹过任何一家的门槛。天刚擦擦亮便提闸放水，于是全古城一天的污垢便荡然无存；加上丽江古城路面中央均为五彩石铺砌，荡涤之后，太阳一照，五彩缤纷，清亮爽目......
这个高明的排水系统最后的结局也是在文革时期被彻底破坏了，如今怎么也恢复不了！
“又是文革！操他妈的！！”——一愤怒，这句粗口就脱口而出。
这一回，泽仁大笑起来。
我也笑了，就这样笑着和泽仁扎西做别，并说好明天再见。
已经是中午了。饿坏了，回到新都桥先大吃了一碗面条。
然后在小镇四处转转。买了几件藏族饰物，挑了一个最简单的挂在自己的脖子上。
走出新都桥，去看看镇子外面的藏族小村庄。刚拍摄了几张照片，就被一群孩子们围住了。让他们排队站好，拍了一张照片；他们就叫嚷着一路跟着我乱转。
河边立着一道经幡，我知道，有时候那是水葬的标志。藏民相信轮回，因而水葬的时候，用白布把尸体包好，蜷曲成母亲子宫里面婴儿的样子。老年的死者因为骨头脆硬，还要打断脊椎骨才可以蜷曲。然后把尸体装进笼子，挂上石头沉入水底喂鱼。
当我向经幡走过去的时候，孩子们有意无意地停步了。
从河谷走上来，迎面来了一小队带着农具的驻守高原的战士。大声地问候他们，他们也大声地向我问好。
听他们的口音，来自不同的地方。他们就这样安于寂寞，安于平静。他们的生活方式，和城市里面忙忙碌碌的蝼蚁们的是截然不同的。
我从一个方式逃逸出来，来这里，也仅仅是一次体验。一次浅浅的体验，仅仅是知道了一点东西。浅浅的体验并不是严肃的，但是至少可以让我知道什么是自然；也足够让我看到自己的自然，到底是以一种什么样的方式展现并且偶尔跳出来狂喜的。
至少让我知道，在城市的背景下面，有时候我的颜色，并不是本我的原色。我不想分辨哪一种颜色绚丽，我只是知道自己喜欢在这里我自己所呈现的颜色。 ——把繁复的后天挂满的一部分不好的东西留在城市，就可以清清楚楚地感受到自己。
一次彻底的独旅，可以让我的感觉停止躁动，安静半年。
或许是童年的时候，成天奔跑在旷野的阳光下，沾染了太多的自然；我便始终做不到城市人们的方式：从一个大城市飞到另一个大城市，周而复始，没有尽头。
人类是从自然进化而来的，对于自然，理所应当有着天然的亲近感。有的人可以感受到自己的自然，有的人却只可以欣赏过于粉饰的东西。于是即使同样味道的漂泊，却有着不同的选择方向。
这种时候，我在安静中的纯洁，会感动我自己。
Burial
5月11号，瓦泽乡居里寺。摩西。
仍是早早起来，不吃早饭就跑到了居里寺天葬台。 ——太晒了，买了一顶草帽胡乱扣在头上。
还是没有天葬。我只好跑到寺里面找泽仁。泽仁告诉我，藏民死后安葬的仪式是要通过占卜定夺的。前天的藏民是被山体滑坡的石头砸死的，可能是因为意外暴死，所以不能天葬，占卜后选择的是火葬。
泽仁让我在寺庙里面住几天，等一等就会看到天葬。
我开始犹豫。如果是因为风景，我完全可以不假思索；可是住在寺庙等着看天葬，总不是好的心态:多少有一点变相的盼着死人的味道。我于是拒绝了泽仁的热心。
泽仁给我指了指山谷远处一家藏民居：“那是天葬师的家，你可以去问问他明天有没有天葬仪式。”
天葬师的样子很有一些出乎我的预料：并不是一个彪形大汉，相反，天葬师是一个精瘦的藏族汉子。
天葬师大多是以父子相传的形式延续解剖的技艺，是一个颇受藏民尊重的职业。但是现代文明总是要渗透进来，于是现在有的天葬师，执行完天葬仪式以后，有时候也要用酒精麻醉一下自己的神经。
这个天葬师说话的时候总有一种沉默的倾向，眼神也很散漫。他告诉我说这几天都不会有天葬仪式，因为没有死人。然后他看了我一眼说：“天葬没有什么好看的。”——这句话其实也是逐客令，我也就不再多问了。
走出天葬师家，忽然很茫然：我是走，还是住在庙里面一直等？
远远看见泽仁在远处向我招手，好像是示意我回去。
只好回到居里寺。泽仁说：“寺庙里面有天葬仪式完整的录像带，但是一般不给游客播放。看你很有艺术家味道，我拿出来给你看。”——这是泽仁第二次为我破例了。
我感激地笑了：“很惭愧，我虽然长发飘飘，可是我的职业即使成名了最多也只能算半个艺术家。我虽然拎着个相机，却也不是画家、记者什么的。我仅仅是个建筑师。”
泽仁带我进入一个黑乎乎的厅堂，在黑白电视上给我播放了天葬的录像带。
（考虑到对于藏民俗的尊重，以及不同阅读者的感受，我决定删除本段文字。）
看完录像，我告别泽仁，一个人走到天葬台边上坐下来，抽了几支烟。
... ...
回到新都桥，我径直走到汽车站。拦住一辆过路车，准备返回康定。
再次翻越折多山。
在康定刚下车，就有另一个司机问我：“去不去泸定，看看海螺沟？”
Went!反正还没有弹尽粮绝。
新都桥到康定有80公里，康定到泸定有50公里；海螺沟在摩西。摩西到泸定还有60多公里。
一路兼程，从新都桥直接杀到摩西，太阳还没有落山。
海螺沟是一个冰川森林公园，可以看到海拔7556米完整的贡嘎山主峰。
走到山门，值班人员告诉我，太晚了，不能进山了。
只好去投宿。宾馆的门卫拦住我不让我进门，我摘下墨镜，他才知道我并不是藏民。这也不能怪他，我头上胡乱扣着一顶草帽，一头乱七八糟的长发，衣服脏兮兮的，脖子上还挂着一个藏民饰物；满脸汗水，鼻子晒暴了皮，人也黑乎乎的不象样子。
安顿好行李在摩西古镇转了转，才发现这里宾馆林立，服务设施齐全，已经是深度开发的旅游区了。难怪从泸定到摩西的公路都很不错。而且，宾馆里有很多游客。
一打听，才知道这里的开发模式和九寨沟一样。在景区里面有一趟又一趟的旅游公交线路车，有导游讲解。我有点不自在，一路上都是自由行走，难道临结束的时候，要恶心自己一下？
摩西镇上到处是发廊、卡拉OK厅、还有频频向外张望的一双双轻佻的眼睛。
走着走着就觉得自己的这次独旅，应该终结在翻越折多山。跑到这里来，简直就是跑题了。
如果是单独来这里，我倒并不十分介意这些。可是现在从高原上走下来，从宽广的雪域走下来，带着自由的满足感，带着异样的感觉再来到这里，就觉得明天要做的事情，和一路上的感觉整个满拧。
来这里真是多余。又上了一次“大家说”的当。
我拒绝进山了。我决定明天一大早就返回成都。
就象崔健的一句歌词：
“突然一脚踩空身体发飘我孤独地飞了……”
End
5月12号，成都。
一大早起来。大队人马都进山，我下山。
近在咫尺的风景没去看，我一点也不觉得可惜。我不想破坏这次独旅完整的感觉。
背着旅行包，提着昨天买来的牦牛头骨，头也不回地走人。
从摩西搭车到泸定前面的一个大渡河边的小镇。坐在路旁准备拦过路车。
吃了一篮子樱桃，才拦到一辆去雅安的车。雅安下车5分钟后，就上了另一辆从雅安去成都的车。
下午三点，回到成都。
下午四点，定好了明天回北京的机票。
晚上HTT带我参加了网友楼兰组织的聚会。很热闹，很快乐，也很尽兴。在北京，这种气氛对于我已经是几年前的事情了；现在没有了。
只有独旅的感觉，一直没有改变。应该也不会改变。
总会有一些自己很坚持的东西。无论如何也舍不得修剪掉。
5月13号，回到北京，天热的厉害。车水马龙，万家灯火；即熟悉又陌生。
5月14号，去上班。做回忙碌的蝼蚁。
5月15号，把牛头和以前的一些民族饰物挂起来，于是我的窝更有味道了。然后开始整理游记。
回到城市就开始忙碌。虽然很满意自己还可以写得很长，写得很有感觉，游记也没办法集中时间一口气完成。
用了六天时间，把这次独旅的花费都给挣了回来；又用了九天时间挣了一笔可以再度独旅的钱。这使我想起还在念青贡嘎日松贡布的“帽子”。我愈发觉得，他的独旅才带有严肃一些的味道。而我，真的仅仅是一次轻度的体验。
我决定以后的独旅，也应该换个更彻底的方式。
6月10号，完成游记。
6月12号，修改，脱稿。
非一郎2001年6月12号，于北京。
Author: kokokoko
