Flying in Yunnan, I am the sky
--- "My Shangri-La Tour" continued
This is the third time I go to Yunnan. "Yunnan in the end there is what attracts you?" A lot of friends have asked me this question. I think everyone in this world to find that one of their own sky, is like looking for his lover in general, about the plot of my days there in Yunnan.
Remember in my last article "My Shangri-La Tour" at the end, once wrote, "Next time I will go to Lijiang - Tengchong - Ruili" do? I came again, but the trip there is a little adjustment, Beijing - Kunming - Lijiang - Tengchong - Yingjiang - Baoshan - Kunming - Beijing, a total of 10 days, all spent 5600 yuan / person.
Re-record the travel diary to share with you.
September 27, 2002 Friday, Beijing - Kunming - Lijiang Lijiang rain
Yin Li and I took annual leave early, so everyone is still sitting in the office when the pitch darkness, we have boarded the plane to fly to Yunnan Province. 7:50 am the aircraft took off, and shows that we travel anxious, 10:30 arrived at Kunming. This experience, and direct air ticket to the second floor, one asked around and found really nice surprise, 12:30 Lijiang flying aircraft, do not stay long at the airport. "A good beginning is half, it seems this time we will travel very well!" I Yin Li, said she has a look of pride, "That, of course, before they come, I worship the Buddha, has promised the would like to do ! "No wonder, it seems too would also like to go back she would have had.
At the airport to Lijiang and I called in Mr. Long, Mr. Xiang He informed that we will arrive in Lijiang in the afternoon. In fact, I give them a few days ago, husband and made a phone call, and heard the two of us have to come to Lijiang, and husband and very happy and give us leave the room. Ah, one of Mr. heard and Lijiang accent, I felt exceptionally warm and feel from the Lijiang has become increasingly closer.
13:30, we again set foot on the land in Lijiang. Blue sky, white clouds, snow-capped mountains and the Naxi people dressed in national costumes, those who often appear in the dream scene alive again, jumping into my eyes. I am deeply breathe in the air this long absence, but the familiar mind meditation: "The Lijiang, I'm back!"
Lijiang has been raining the past few days, so the weather a bit cold. Sit down at the airport to the Lijiang airport bus, half an hour later, came to Lijiang county. Glance right and left between the last time we suddenly found a chartered driver Xiao, Li Yin called out the sound, "named Xiao Liu, named Xiao Liu." Unfortunately, little Liu busy driving, did not find us.
Long-distance out from the station, we are very familiar with and considered Lijiang, there is no taxi, we walked towards the direction of Old Town of Lijiang. Results do not know how to actually engage in the wrong way around in a big circle, and only to the house of Mr.. Way too Chung "green snow fasting", the found that many students are lining up to the castle. His "Folk Museum, the old device" was finally completed, and to see so many people, the hands of another luggage, we decided to come back another day, anyway, it had to wait for several days.
Mr. and went to work, and only his wife at home, are packing the room. Naxi Women's really hard work, a huge courtyard, there are more than a dozen rooms upstairs, downstairs, all rely on one sweep, but also Ben clean! We have considered tourists come in earlier, and there are some of the rooms empty, and his wife so that our own chosen at random. We looked at some up and down and decided on the second floor settled. Mr. and renovated family room, new for the Simmons mattresses, even quilt and sheets are also new. We are on the road a bit cold, to see the soft quilt, feel a burst of warmth to the heart, a kind of feel at home.
From the second floor looking down, and the house of Mr. yard, put a lot of pots in full bloom, and only in a garden in order to see the orchids Fang-rong; pomegranate tree also end up with fruit, leaves hanging drops and shimmering turquoise. Everything in the yard so familiar with.
Was settled when the husband and come back. Upstairs, heard his loud voice: "Xiaopeng, you have come!" Not too many greetings, and we already had an acquaintance.
Today, we have two important tasks, it is necessary to the terminal to check there from Lijiang to Tengchong long-distance car, second is scheduled to fly from Kunming, Baoshan ticket. After the study, I think we should be No. 6 or No. 5 early evening flight from Kunming, Baoshan, so as to catch up with us on the 6th at noon on the plane back to Beijing from Kunming.
In the house of Mr. and brief rest, we have to go out. At 6 o'clock to come back, because husband and said he wanted us to do meal authentic Naxi style meals, we are also not finding a way out of.
Sky fluttering misty light rain, a slight coolness. To the long-distance passenger transport center, query results, there is no direct access from the Lijiang Tengchong car, but there are two kinds of moves to reach the Tengchong.
Line a ride from Lijiang Ruili, the sleeper cars bound for the next day, start the evening, via Baoshan, we learned from Baoshan to Tengchong sub-car. From Lijiang to Baoshan take up to 12 hours, Baoshan to Tengchong, there are still about 3 hours. The fare from Lijiang to Baoshan, with 52.5 million cars from Baoshan to Tengchong a lot, you can a few people to fight a small van, about 20-30 yuan a person.
Advantages of this rail link: compare car at night to save time, went to sleep one night, and not to delay play during the day.
Disadvantages: Happening less secure, especially our two girls;
Driving at night can appreciate the scenery along the way;
Poor road conditions, need to climb Gaoligongshan, compare turbulence;
The next day start, we are scheduled to leave on the 30th of Lijiang, just no car;
Without high-speed express train, condition poor.
Summary: whole journey takes 15 hours (not including transfer time), the fare is about 80.
Line 2, first by car from Lijiang to Dali, train number is very large, one-hour intervals, travel about 4 hours, 50 of money. And then take the car from Dali to Tengchong is said that "Big Paul (Dali - Baoshan)" high-speed road soon in the "11" This is the opening a few days, but the specific date for opening is not known. If you take the old road, then, from Dali to Baoshan need 8-9 hours.
Advantages of this rail link: from Lijiang to Dali's condition, and road conditions are very good;
If the majority of the opening of Paul, then from Dali to Baoshan only 3 hours, condition and road conditions are also very good.
Disadvantages: Big Paul did not know the specific time for the opening and can not journeys.
Summary: whole journey takes 10 hours (to go Great Barrier Road) ,12-13 hours (take the old road), full fare is unknown.
In the case of incomplete information, and we think we should inquire again about to look up flight information, if direct flights from Lijiang, Baoshan, it would save a lot of time on the road.
To leave the terminal, we went to look for air ticket. "Look! Look! This is Who?!" Yin Li finger along the direction of a look, even on the roadside discovered the "phonons," he is still the same as before, wearing comfortable sweaters, foot sandals, but less head hat, appears to lean a little. He also recognized us, and quickly stepped forward and shook hands. Phonon next to a fat President, I heard from friends from Taiwan, ready to go with 11 after the phonon Tibet collecting folk songs. "How? You two ready to Lijiang after the long-lived?" Phonon asked us, me and Yin Li laughed, "Maybe!" "Tea at night to my family, my wife and son were at home then!" Phonon invites us, "will, will, we just arrived, had to wait for several days then!"
Flight query results are not from the Lijiang Baoshan fly the aircraft, it seems we can only take long-haul truck had; but bought a 5 nights from Baoshan, Kunming, flying aircraft, Return regarded as basically implemented.
6 o'clock, we returned on time and the house of Mr., one into the courtyard, a surge of food scent on the face descend quickly, greedy get us straight Yankou Shui. Good a sumptuous dinner table! I was surprised that the original "chicken soy flour," not only can be made into "chicken bean jelly beans," when the cold weather, but also to eat fried, fried with eat, eat a good variety. We quickly brought the camera, in this table have not become our food belly meal time, rushed down according to their never included.
Somehow, as long as one to Yunnan, my appetite on the Xian Zhang, Yin Li is the same. We are laughing, eating, even went to husband and lives on a chatter. Food to eat over, Wolia decided not to go out tonight, and talk talk to Tengchong line, an early rest, starting early tomorrow.
In Lijiang, the house mostly from wood, and resistance to earthquakes is an important reason! Mulou, wood, wood floor, lying on the Wenruan wooden bed, leaves the listener sent light rain fell on thin Susu voice, I am pragmatic and sleep.
Travel tips and related information:
1, our flight information, Beijing - Kunming, CA1303, 7:50 AM/10: 30AM, Tickets 940 yuan (6 fold). Kunming - Lijiang, FM451, 12:35 PM / 1:20 PM, Tickets 420 yuan.
2, this time we only know that if you are in the airport transit aircraft, as long as two flight intervals of not more than 8 hours, even if you leave the airport, when you do not need to re-check to purchase the airport construction fee. As we last came to Yunnan, in Kunming area played more than 5 hours, and then back to the airport check-in, when in fact no need to buy airport construction fees, but no one told us, the airport did not identify, white花了冤枉钱! ! !
3, from Lijiang airport to the city from 22 km, take the airport bus each 10 yuan, about half an hour can be reached.
4, from Baoshan, Kunming, the aircraft flying a daily, 3Q4492, 8:20 PM / 9:00 PM, Tickets 440 yuan.
September 28, 2002 Saturday, Lijiang - Wooden Classic Inn, Fuk number, Square Street tea houses, the green light rain Sessai
Morning, 9 o'clock, and we sleep the natural wake. And his wife had breakfast ready for us now branded Lijiang Baba and Zhuji soybean meal. Wow thiophene, that incense! We eat a two Lijiang Baba. This round Lijiang Lijiang Baba is the most common form of staple food, raw materials are flour, add sugar or salt, in the baking pan in the Lao Cheng. Zhuji soybean meal is mushy, like porridge, have a hint of green, pollution-free food is healthy.
Chibaohezu, Li Yin and I are out the door, the sky is still inundated with rain, the air damp, and cool to. 51 years time, the air is very dry, so this time we also brought along a deep moisturizing cream specially appears to be of no little use for a. After a "sanyanjing," there is a roadside inn, called "QIAO Jia-garden." And went in, which a few friends kind enough to greet us, Tingkou Yin, or northerners. 1 inquiries, one of which Peking Man, but also out of his own jeep, and drove all the way to play all the way from Beijing to Lijiang, has been more than in January, and envy! There is also a young man today to go to Tengchong, I heard that we are going to want to go along together, but we arrived in Lijiang, have to spend a few days of small, time is not coincidence. Asked him to Tengchong line, he has taken is my summary of yesterday, on the 2nd line. And this bit "Mix" back to us with an important message - today's "Big Paul" formally opened to traffic, it was a big good news! I decided to call directly to the Dali long-distance bus terminal, so that you can confirm this information is accurate.
House next to the wood, there is an Inn called "Wooden Classic Inn." In fact, 51 years, we have to commute from here have gone through I do not know how many times, but they did not go off once. Psychologically, people are sometimes very subtle, such as entering into a vegetable market, each selling the same things, but usually will not buy things at the first pitch. "Wooden Classic Inn" is located at the entrance to the ancient city of Lijiang, probably this is the reason we never visit the bar. Then rained some secret, so we go in rain. Oh, this is located but it is still pretty good! In particular, worth recommending is the second floor of the tea-room chic decoration. Yunnan unique "big hat" into the shade, the old pattern of the door cover on the hollow glass as a table, the room floating thick scent of lily. Two packages, the "concept of comfortable" and "enjoy freedom", I flew into a couplet with these two, "comfortable view of Lijiang, free to enjoy leisure," which is exactly what we feel in Lijiang. Now in the morning, few people in the early morning to tea room, so no guests, but said many guests the afternoon. Looked out from the second floor is a wood outside the government, in the middle twin appointment in a path, the same architectural style, and something like a wooden part of the government.
In the rain washed shiny stone on the road, we slowly forward, in front of an old umbrella caught my attention, he wore a sleeveless jacket design is very beautiful, is a traditional bat bai shou patterns, workmanship is also very particular about the most important thing is that his behavior somehow so different, laid-back, aloof but solemn. Go to the side of an old look, you guess who? ! Who is a 94-year-old Dongba! "Quick, quick, quick camera!" Woliang become like groupies, like take pictures quickly to stand beside Dongba. Unfortunately, the old Dongba know the Chinese language, or else I really wanted to talk to a few words, and the wise man will certainly benefit.
Through the Square Street, we go to the "big beard" selling Chinese knot of "Fu" series, the store's younger sister said that he went out for dinner, and one will return. Then go near the "Square Street teahouse," tea bar, in addition to that we have recognized the father and son owner of Fujian outside, and there are a small owner, the original co-father with two sons take care of business. When the tea at the end, our paper bags are stuffed full of tea. And then came the "blessings" series, "beard" also came back to see we are very pleased to have invited us to sit down and chat. He is now growing in booming business, not only in Chengdu opened a special jade processing factories in several cities to open a branch, but also by the end of October to participate in the China Arts and Crafts Masters Competition. Right sex, the beard of his works are about to play out to show to us, and we Zai Zai to enjoy the thin one piece, the store attracted a lot of customers have stopped watching, there are a lot of asking price you want to buy . Beard is very stubborn, "these are not selling! These two are my friends, I did give them a look." ('s Nice to feel privileged!)
Today also think of at the Bay "green Sessai" to see, in 51 years, he is preparing to establish the "people of Lijiang Old device Museum" has now officially opened to the. If you have not been to Lijiang, may I say there is no concept of these names. Is that, outside the Lion Rock at the foot of the ancient city, there is a reservoir, known as "white Longtan," the people of Taiwan in Chung --- one came here, it will be white-white Longtan Longtan, together with the adjacent semi-permanent seat at the Lion Rock contract down and built one at the foot of the mountain named "green snow vegetarian," the tea-room built halfway up the mountain is still an "old device Museum." This time the point? Yu Yong and our warm greetings, but the yard a lot of workers are moving things, he does not rest assured that away, called one of his buddy took us to the museum to visit. Are hill walking, I started worrying about Natiao named "Bear" Tibetan Ao. " 'Bear' grow it? Would bite it?" We asked folks, "grown up, several individuals of the Du Yao!" (Later I asked in the Bay know, there are several people in the "Bear" to eat something When it is funny to see it ignored, on the old funny it was "Winnie" was finally given funny urgency. I think these people are self-inflicted, funny what is wrong, but why tease Tibet Ao!) In order to be safe, Yu Yong devoted to the "Bear" repair of a small house, and presented a small courtyard and a 10 square meter! It is in the house to sleep in the yard running. Six months of age of the "Bear" really grown up a lot, but not yet grown into. The last years, when it is love bite shoelace, and now love to bite the bones. Perhaps it was because childhood together with people, so we do not see from its eyes Xiong Guang, but we dared to touch him. Yu Chung museum show was acquired from a nearby rural areas to some of the old objects, most of them for daily, visitors can understand Lijiang's past lifestyle and customs. There are many things that are hundreds of years, "said Bear," the mission is to protect these cultural relics, it is very competent.
Went to the dinner time, we came to the bustling "bar street" artist "phonons" has a Menlian on this street, but he is not in the shop young girl told us again and that phonons Mr. bit fat out, "he does not always make good business, it is always thinking about playing the game" mantra that the young girl. Lijiang, our friends a few inside phonon is the only one not good at doing business. He also maintained that the artist's unrestrained lifestyle, open a shop just to provide him with a steady income, a rest period of time, he too eager to go to Tibet to collecting folk songs, and comes back with new inspiration, the accumulation of new material, re-creation of new works. It seems to artists and businessmen to find a balance between the parts is not easy.
One day to find old friends are busy chatting in the evening he come not to the terminal Dali call tomorrow will certainly be completed!
Travel tips and related information:
1, the last to buy drinking tea yet, so this time I chose not to buy some of the previous species, and wild mountain tea and roses. Mountains and the blue and elegant tea and taste somewhat similar, but slightly short, I prefer the kind of sweet, savory tea. Rose said to have beauty of the effect, I do not know how it beauty, but the roses after brewing, not only emit fragrance flowers and flower buds slightly open, looks like a very beautiful, fun to watch, and I feel good about also reached a the effectiveness of beauty!
2, long-distance passenger Dali Shimonoseki Tel 0872-2125532, you can check Shimonoseki Station departure of long-distance car information.
3, in the Lijiang area there are two untapped tourist attractions, one called the "Dawn", one called the "Laojunshan", there is a newly developed scenic spots, called "SHI Bao-shan." Dawn and Laojunshan all roads, this time we can not go, but reportedly very beautiful scenery. SHI Bao-shan known as the "Stone City", the entire village is built on the hill, home Zhuoyibandeng are also stone. These days it rains, the road unsafe, so we can not go. Sorry to be leaving more to my next exploration!
September 29, 2002 Sunday Lijiang - clubbing rain
Morning wake up, Yin Li and I talk over with, and if it does not rain today, can be enough. Open the curtains look, the sky is still gloomy, still do not clear up. After breakfast, we are lazy to go out pacing, walking to go there today to discuss the final decision to go Paojiu Ba.
The way to the Square Street, we have witnessed the love of clean Lijiang how clean the streets people. Square Street is before the Lijiang river where the flow of water to clean streets, first downstream river stuffed, so the water will be up on the diffuse, diffuse-off streets, so that the whole Square Street would have been washed clean, the method followed for several century. But now the downstream section of the gate is broken and could not closing disconnect the water supply had to use high-pressure hoses washed in the. Lijiang Old Town shops are stone, the more to the "Square Street," walking the stone the more smooth, flat, smooth surface according to the degree of the flow of people will be able to judge. (Is nonsense!)
We have to prepare some snacks in the bar to eat on the road to a shop and bought a packet of Lijiang preserves. (51 years, when live performances making preserves, but 11 is not producing fruit season, there is no preserves are done.) And from the street, where a Naxi old mother bought two money white melon seeds, she uses a small a small cup scoop of glasses. (Start We are also too few results to eat, it was discovered, how it seems more like sharpen, even not eating for three hours after eating. Is this the old mother of a small cup Shi fragmentation of the magic? The next day I would get angry, and mouth also played a bubble.) to find a bookshelf filled with a variety of travel magazine bar and sat down, quite cool days, and we dare not sit outside, they hid in the house. Under several consecutive rainy weather, and air humidity great, even on the bottle of pepper sauce are compaction, we next to the table of the two foreigners holding a small pepper bottles, then shake again Akira, that is not quite out of .
Asked for a pot of Dian Hong tea, unlimited renewal of water. We are a local reading travel magazine, looking forward to the next one to travel goals. Time went by land flowing past, and my heart is so safe, the noise on earth is so far away, like the rest of life in general. Since marked with a writing travels later, as soon as I go out, my friends told me: come back later to write Travels Yo! 51 and 11 the middle, I did go to some places, but I do not know why, I always find kind of spiritual feeling of the collision, so there is no passion to write anything. A friend told me that this book has described those who go to some places there will be déjà vu, past lives, and there may be some indissoluble bond. I do not know why, every time to Yunnan, I feel I belong here, a kind of inexplicable sense of belonging, and Yunnan Could it be that I have some relationship to people? (Incidentally, I have no origin in Yunnan Province, the father Department of Anhui Province, and her mother the Department of Peking Man.)
11 and 51 of the Lijiang Lijiang great difference. 51, when the sun in Lijiang over the dance, as if also the flow of air, jump, and lively; and 11 of Lijiang, shrouded in rain and fog, the air is swampy, static, and the entire city has become quiet the . Even today, visitors are still few, however, stores have begun preparing for 11 tourism golden week, and the shop began to load, decorated, even the bars of the young girl is also wearing the national costume.
I will give Dali Shimonoseki station, playing the phone confirmed, "Big Paul" has indeed been opened, and the Shimonoseki Tengchong has also added a direct high-speed express train a day as early as the first group of 10 o'clock start, the latest group of 7 pm start. So we make up their minds to take my summary on the 2nd line, and leave for tomorrow, Dali, Dali places at night, the day after tomorrow morning from Dali to Tengchong. Dali hotels quickly scheduled, or that home "Dali hotels." Some of the arrangements in place, we continue to enjoy a single minute in Lijiang.
When I was writing this article, when Xi Wen "big beard" won the Third China Arts and Crafts Competition Bronze Award, and the rookie for his happy, Cheers!
Travel tips and related information:
1. "Bearded", whose real name is Wang Hongbo, his shop is called "Fu" series, there are many shops beard beautiful Chinese knot art decorations, inexpensive but very good design and process, you will definitely not empty-handed and return.
Address: Lijiang Dayan Old Town Lane, Xinyi Street, No. 28 Mississippi Tel :0888-5184931
2. Is now quite popular for interior decoration with hand embroidery, and we find a a good one, called "Hing Cheung and apparel embroidery craft shop", female boss named He Yao is Yao people, to speak crisp, never not clear-cut. Her shop has a lot of embroidery and ethnic crafts, arts and crafts if you are interested in the nation, we might go have a look.
Address: Old Town of Lijiang Guangyi Street, Crown Homes, Lane 67 Tel :0888-5105266
September 30, 2002 Monday, Lijiang - Dali clear
Lijiang Bus Station the morning to go buy two 14:30 to Dali tickets, today we will be left for a Dali.
Eaten lunch, Li Yin and I pulled the box on the left and the house of Mr.. And the husband wanted to send us, by us declined, dragging a box slowly Lijiang is also more time to savor. Finally sunny days, and very, very blue, very beautiful. The left Lijiang, when the heart no longer melancholy parting, because I know that I will come back.
In the long-distance car 3 and a half hours down for us, is not tough to see two movies went to the Dali had. Out of the car, and we place in the long-distance railway station to buy a ticket tomorrow morning to Tengchong. 28 "Big Paul" the opening, so now increased from Tengchong, Dali direct non-stop high-Express, full time for five and a half hours, seems to choose the second route is definitely a wise move!
Western Yunnan city of Dali has always been, whether you are going to Lijiang in northwest Yunnan - Zhongdian - Diqing, or go to the south-west Yunnan Baoshan - Tengchong - Ruili, if by land, then, are the only way Dali.
Dali hotels we stay at night, inside the ancient city of Dali. This hotel is too old, but this is the only one able to travel on the books I get this hotel. Therefore, we洋人街wandering at night in addition to, it also collected some information on accommodation in Dali. The洋人街, you can easily enjoy the various tastes of food, Chinese food, Western food, everything. Night, I do not know where to emerge from so many foreigners are gathered in the street, they chat, drink beer, the Internet, a great clamor,洋人街then becomes a "bar street", and later the more popular the more wang .
Also found洋人街the end of that house shops selling CD, is still that young girl to sit quietly and listen to the music. Listen to, she said, the boss has gone out of travel. From the young girl's mouth, we know that bosses are not very old, 20-something, often a group of friends out to travel, came back once a month or two. Out from the store, I took a look at the names of shops, "Heaven ladder."
We did not play late into the night and return to Dali, a small room inside the hotel, lights dim, we are a sleepy.
Travel tips and related information:
1. Lijiang to Dali, 180 km, take a long car trip of about three and a half-hour, high-Express fares 53.5. Train is very large, every half hour trip. But the high-Express only three classes a day, other cars Driving Status somewhat less certain.
2, Tengchong, Dali to the entire 345 kilometers, ticket 83.5 yuan, the journey of five and a half hours (to go Great Barrier Road).
3, Dali Dali Shimonoseki Station to the need for a taxi for half an hour, 30 money, do not bargain.
4, Dali, Dali, Man Wah Inn accommodation recommended strongly recommend that the room is very clean, the waiter service is not bad. In particular, there is a beautiful leaf called Sheng Li Bai "Little Golden Flower," I do not know how and we then hit it off, glitter with big eyes, holding my hand and we chatted for a long time is also unwilling to let go, really cute! (To be honest, Bai Naxi girl than the girl was pretty.)
Address: Dali City, Dali culture tubes Tel :0872-2661568
Standard Room Price: 80-100 yuan low season / peak season between 260 yuan / room
Red Longjing Hotel Address: Dali City, Dali Honglongjing Tel :0872-2660200, 2660201,2660202
Golden Flower Hotel Address: Dali City, Dali, No. 306, Fuxing Road, Tel :0872-2673343洋人街junctions, 2673344,2673846
October 1, 2002 Tuesday Dali - Tengchong clear
10 o'clock the morning long-distance trucks to the station only know that because of these past few days with heavy rain, just the opening of the "Big Paul" There are some parts of landslides, cave-ins, so some sections closed. Car from Dali out of the first two hours can take the old road, traffic is not very good, very bumpy, seeing that new highway nearby, that they can not go up, be envious!
Previously, from Dali to Tengchong have to climb Gaoligongshan, 8,9 hours by car to reach the Baoshan, and then 2,3 hours drive from Baoshan to Tengchong finally arrived. The road down, people have almost all fall to pieces of. Now do not have to climb Gaoligongshan, and save a lot of time, but also appreciate the beauty of the mountains can not. Gaoligongshan is a north-south mountain ranges, if you stand on the summit of towering mountains, east is the Eurasian continent, west India's mainland, billions of years ago after the two met squeezing the rise of continental drift in this mountain range. Exploration Gaoligongshan enjoy the Nu River valley is one adventure, some friends of his own off-road jeep to experience such natural beauty and ethnic minority customs, read some reports have a high evaluation of this route. We did not this condition can only be a distraught sigh!
After nearly 7-hour drive, we finally reached the Tengchong. To Tengchong, I had booked the hotel, but unfortunately, did not in the famous "hot sea" hot spring scenic area which sets out the room, because these days just is "the third Tengchong Tourism Festival", so visitors particularly high. Fortunately, we have done a book, or accommodation became a problem, said a lot of tourists are only dozens of kilometers away in the small hostels forbearance night. We live in hotel called "Le Conte Hotel", quite new, the room condition is not bad. Front desk attendant asked what the night can go to crowded places, and she recommended to us, "Center for the Performing Tengchong County," said this evening there are performances, we naturally can not miss.
Tengchong, Yunnan is located in the southwest, directly under the Baoshan area, has a unique group of volcanic and geothermal landscape, Sino-Burmese border trade has always been an important towns and military hub, or the famous hometown of overseas Chinese in Yunnan Province. "Vault" is the Tengchong in the Western Han Dynasty, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties of several major titles, so often heard people say "good one vault state" argument; she is southwest of the ancient Silk Road in China's last stop, the ancient Silk The road also known as "Shu-Hindu Road," North from Chengdu, Sichuan, Yunnan, south by Dali, Baoshan, Tengchong out by Burma, reached India, Pakistan, Iran and Afghanistan and other countries, is an important overland trade routes.
Tengchong warm climate, than in Lijiang and Dali to be warm this season during the day wearing a short-sleeved T-shirt, a jacket can be added at night. In many people hearts, volcanic somewhat mysterious, we are no exception, always want to be able to see the volcano's graceful bearing as early as 1:00. Only later did I realize that what we where Tengchong County is located in "to Fengshan" volcano remains on a city, the county seat is 1 km south crater remains.
Tengchong is an emerging small cities, roads are wide, bi-directional four-lane, car little ride quality is very smooth. Middle of the road there is the wide green belt along the roadside are all newly built houses. Overall assessment --- clean and tidy.
To the performance center, Goodfellas! But with the huge crowds of people to describe the absolute points, a huge open-air venue, packed to packed audiences. We have already impossible to find a seat, and so he sat on the floor in the front row, but also quite good, see also made it clear it! Heard that is not performing normally, and only at important festivals when they could Yibaoyanfu, today is "11," Not only are we able to see a strong local flavor of the song and dance performances, but also be able to witness the Lisu "sea of fire down the mountain on the knife "feat. For the many performing arts content, Yin Li, and I'm just looking busy, starting booing and found who Goof, we both would secretly laughing. (The bar was bad enough!) Has a sketch is to introduce the Tengchong of a famous local snack "big Jiu Jia", and so I gathered more knowledge. Accordance with the sketch inside saying the late Ming and early Qing Dynasty Emperor Yongli dire straits came to Yunnan, hungry and cold when the Tengchong eat "fried Erkuai", fed by Lulu empty stomach, so Long Yan Tai Yue, Yu Ci This is delicious as a "big Jiu Jia. " I do not know whether this story is pure fiction anyway "big Jiu Jia" This name is left. (Later, I looked up some books introducing Tengchong is so written).
"Knife down the mountain on a sea of flames" It's breathtaking! Erected in the square two high pole, pole cross-tied 72 sharp knives to the edge overturned. (In accordance with Lisu customs, a very sharp knife should be raw, and never adulterated!) Lisu warriors boarded in bare feet, "Tachiyama" and lose, loss. Place on a campfire, Lisu girls around the campfire to sing and dance, the warriors drank alcohol, barefoot into the fireplace. Moreover, also picked up the burnt red of the wood by hand, or simply to eat charcoal red mouth ... ... boy, really for them Nieyibahan! Lisu tribe do not know what to practice kung fu, anyway, we have been not smell the barbecue flavor.
We plan to go tomorrow, Atami, take a bus to go. Because it is still not very familiar with Tengchong and morals, is not assured chartered, fear of people slaughtered.
Travel tips and related information:
1. Tengchong Ersi is Tengchong region's major food, using local pulp processed meters, there are two kinds of boiled and fried eat. Boiling water boiled with the Er Si, together with shredded meat or eggs, accompanied by pickled cabbage can be eaten. Our 4-ton Tengchong eat breakfast eggs cooked meal Ersi, even without food greasy! (Wrote here, I had another gluttonous.) Fried food is to Erkuaiaiqie into pieces, plus eggs, pork, tomatoes and other seasonal vegetables stir-fry made "fried Erkuai", also known as the "big save drive. " To eat "big Jiu Jia", one must not forget to bowl Suantang This is the authentic eat. In short, boiling and frying Erkuai Ersi taste of the two approaches are good, you come to Tengchong must taste, each restaurant has.
2. Tengchong driving a taxi in the city, late 10 before 5 money, and 10 points after 10 yuan.
3. Take the bus to the so-called hot sea, 5 yuan per person fare. Asserted that it "so-called bus" because the bus is not really that great, but little bread, a few people to fight a car. Tengchong is not a bus stop poles, if you want to travel, the traffic police need to inquire about the location of stations. Of course, you can take a taxi to the hot sea, one-way 25 yuan, Xiali, and Santana is a price.
4. Jindi Hotel Address: Tengchong County Weather Road Tel :0875-5186678
Standard Room Price: high season 300 yuan / Inter (11 this year, many people travel to Tengchong, and even the hotel's KTV private rooms were turned into a standard room)
Off-season can be said that less than 100 dollars
October 2, 2002 --- Wednesday, Tengchong hot sea, Shun overseas Chinese, Dieshui River Falls, the National Memorial Cemetery clear transfer of small rain showers
Tengchong the weather good, our spirit is also very good. Out of the door of the hotel, walking contemplating going there for breakfast. Then just 7:30, the street is not over, there are some lug pole of the hawkers have started selling vegetables door to door delivery of fresh vegetables to the restaurants, and two baskets hanging in the pole 2, the basket inside the clean, fresh vegetables piled have to take a sharp, closer observation of these plants, are unfamiliar faces, most of us do not know. Came to a hotel where we lived not far away from the Muslim restaurant to sit down, to the two bowls of egg Er Si. To ask how the taste? 4 consecutive days since we eat the same eggs Ersi. How would you say taste?
Good to the traffic police yesterday asked Where can I take to go from Atami bus, so very well today, to find the station.
Tengchong is one of China's three major geothermal areas. Billions of years ago, was once the sea, and later the Indian mainland and Asia and Europe where the collision with the seabed uplift of the momentum of an extraordinary Gaoligongshan, while the Tengchong orogeny in this area is the most intense part, leaving the world's most densely volcanic group and thermal Quanqun. Atami is located 10 kilometers south Tengchong, Tengchong County, Atami is located in the geothermal heat center is state-level scenic spots of geothermal volcanic.
Less than half an hour, we came to Atami scenic entrance. This time, very few tourists, the weather is also cool. Atami first entered the door, we found one like the movie "Jurassic Park" where the dinosaur-infested bushes, but also the steam, such as blue smoke usually emerge from the bush from which it is to heat-hole, we are excited to take pictures. Yesterday arrived in Tengchong, we have not found intensive volcanoes and hot springs, is finally able to witness.
Due to thermal Sea region rich in geothermal resources, high temperature, so the growth of some tropical plants here, there are many I have seen in Xishuangbanna. A lot of hot sea plantain tree, Musa has not yet fully mature, cyan, Yingying, and heavy to hang on the trees, bending the branches, the branches also fall with a huge dark red banana flowers.
How far do not go half-way up is the famous "big rolling pot", which is the highest temperature of the sea hot boiling springs. "Pot", everyone must have seen, but such "big roll pan," Oh, surely you are unheard of. Although I have read before to Tengchong, a number of Atami described "big roll pan," the article and photos, but when I stood in the "big roll pan," next time, I can only use two words to sum up --- "spectacular." "Big rolling pot" diameter and 6 meters and 1.5 meters deep, the water temperature as high as 96.6 degrees, around the clock rolling boil violently. Boiling springs surrounded by eight stone slabs into the gossip graphics, steam high into the sky, like clouds travel fog, the water is clear and transparent, suffused with a touch of blue. I think the hot foot, bent down touched the stone, the boy, turned out to be hot! It will make use of local Tengchong geothermal resources in boiling springs surrounded by a number of holes, it is built into the pit for its topography, natural heat steamed rice, boiled eggs, peanuts and other foods, especially delicious flavor. Some local people banding into a strip of straw, each string of five eggs, as hot water tank, 5 minutes and cooked. The strings of eggs, which is "strange Yunnan 18" in a strange --- the "egg with the grass wearing a sell." We bought some steamed sweet potato, sweet and delicious.
Just the "big rolling pot" down, there is a group of women to greet us to do, "their feet, cupping, massage." We both had been consulted before he came good, climbed them all tired after the mountains have to enjoy the hot springs here, their feet can be when the morning before 9 o'clock, the time too early. But the women looked very sincere, the price also offers a lot, people are few, so we sat down. Feet or the water is from the "big rolling pot" where playing up, of course, not just playing up, or else we have to "faded hair" of. Using local resources, the "big rolling pot" water is a natural, alkaline water, skateboarding, and is said to rich in a variety of trace elements beneficial to humans. Bubble the feet, another women are beginning to give us a massage. I have done every week of systemic and foot massage, that is the kind of traditional Chinese medicine acupuncture. A comparison would be to know that these women are not really superior technology, but also recover from fatigue a lot. In fact, they had previously been a local farmer, and now more and more people travel, hot sea scenic keeps them organized, set up a "massage team" also be diversified. I've never tried cupping, this has also tried a "pull tank." Women put to a bucket of boiling water, buckets filled with a lot of floating "small bamboo", a pick with chopsticks and a bamboo tube was picked up and the water rejection toss gently to the need for cupping the site a place, just a few seconds , small bamboo tube to firmly pull on the body. In fact, the idea is very simple bamboo where the original hot air, after pre-cooling, air volume contraction, pressure smaller, thus sucking in the body. The latter two of us to pull back, densely filled with small bamboo tube, such as narrowing of the "Plum Blossom piles."妇女问我们要不要在太阳穴上也拔两个罐，说可以治头痛，我们答应了。呵，这回尹莉和我简直不敢对视，互相一看就笑个不停，两个太阳穴上顶着小竹筒就象水牛角似的。拔罐的时候尽量不要乱动，否则皮肤会被揪得生疼。 （拔完罐会在皮肤上留下一个圆圆的紫红色的印记，我回到北京以后，脖子上还有印儿，被同事们发现后嘲笑了一回！）竹罐除去后，我们躺在宽大的长椅上，不时地叫按摩的妇女给我们的洗脚盆里续热水。 （按摩是计时的，但是泡脚是不限时间的。）此时来按摩、泡脚的游客越来越多，刚才空荡荡的椅子现在已经坐满了人，躺椅没有了，后来的人就只好挤在长条板凳上。待板凳上的人后背上通通拔满水罐后，个个鼓着后背，几十人一溜，密密的好几排，这上百人同时拔罐的景象也真让人开眼！
“大滚锅”旁有一条路可以通到“老滚锅”，前去一探，有点失望，因为“老滚锅”被严实地遮盖了起来，已经开辟成温泉浴池了。一路走一路观瞧，热海里几十处热泉沸沸喷涌，一缕缕蒸汽袅袅升腾，随着呼哧作响的喷发声，大股浓烈的硫磺气味扑进鼻腔。整个山谷，气浪熏熏，影影绰绰，喧喧嚣嚣，如“太虚幻境”一般。热海里有名的沸泉还有“珍珠泉”、“蛤蟆嘴”、“怀胎井”、“鼓鸣泉”和澡塘河瀑布等，各有风格。热海里还有多处温泉浴池，有一人一室的，两人一室的等等，都是将沸泉里的水打上来，经冷却后注入澡池中，据说能够医治多种疾病。每个浴室门口都排队，我们也就没去凑热闹。还有几处温泉游泳池，人非常多，象煮饺子。时近中午，天气越来越热，我们开始汗流浃背了，整个景区就象，不，就是一个“超级桑拿房”！
出了热海大门，我们和另外两个年轻人共乘一辆小面包车，他们去腾冲县城，我们去“和顺侨乡”，正好顺路。
和顺乡位于腾冲县城西南4公里，为一山青水秀群山环抱的小盆地，是著名的侨乡。云南与缅甸接壤，和顺的华侨也以旅缅华侨居多。和顺地区气候宜人，冬无大寒，夏无酷暑。侨乡大寨倚山临水，绿树掩映之间屋舍层层，呈现一派江南风貌。和顺民居是侨乡中很有特色的一景，和顺民居多为清末民初所建，虽然几经战争和动乱，但是大部分保存结构尚好，象毛泽东的哲学顾问艾思奇故居、地处大石巷名为“弯楼子”的李家院落和刘氏宗祠等。此外，值得一提的是和顺还拥有全国最大的农村图书馆---“和顺图书馆”，管内富藏古今图书及地方文献，含多种善本、珍本书籍等。在图书馆里，我们看到一些和顺当地人在里面读报、读书。环境优美、民风古朴、文化积淀深厚，难怪和顺侨乡是云南省四个典型的文化生态村之一。
来和顺之前看过一篇文章，说来到和顺，如果自己不是这里的华侨后裔，只会平添思乡哀愁，我们没有这种感觉，倒觉生趣盎然。
从和顺出来，坐出租车去位于腾冲县城南端的“叠水河瀑布”。听介绍说这里是全国少有的城市瀑布和少有的火山瀑布，是大盈江从北向南贯穿腾冲，遇一巨大的断层石岩，从46米处跌落而形成。但是说实话，看到之后多少有点失望。瀑布倒是有，落差也挺大，但是水并不清澈，而是黄色的、污浊的，有点煞风景。 （相片照出来还行。）
叠水河瀑布出来很近就是“国殇墓园”，是纪念“二战”时期国民党远征军部分阵亡将士的纪念地。本世纪40年代的腾冲抗战，是这个被誉为“极边第一城”的县城在建成后最惨烈的一次攻坚战。国民党远征军第二十集团军经过40多个日日夜夜的搏杀，9000多人的流血牺牲，取得了全歼日军的彻底胜利，最后终于光复了腾冲。在这次战役中，曾经固若金汤400余年的古腾冲石头城毁于一旦，腾冲古城中的一切建筑全都荡然无存，是名副其实的“焦土抗战”。 （我在查资料的时候发现，全歼日军的数量是6000人，而我们却损失了9000多人。这是因为在战争初期，传说日军非常神勇，远征军士兵有种畏惧心理，认为自己打不过日军；而且日军又占领了易首难攻的高黎贡山作为天然屏障，所以远征军在初期损失惨重。但是后来，日军在高黎贡山上补给严重不足，远征军奋力猛攻，最终全歼日军。）进入墓园，我们顿时被庄严肃穆的气氛所感染。正对大门的“忠烈祠”里有蒋中正题词“河岳英灵”和“碧血千秋”，祠内外立柱悬挂何应钦及其他一些远征军高级将领的题联，还有大量记录性的碑记，我们还在祠内见到当年远征军的老士兵敬献的花圈。在忠烈祠后苍松翠柏的掩映下的圆锥体小山坡上，自下而上小墓碑林立，每个墓碑下均葬有阵亡官兵的骨灰。深深地向这些民族英雄致敬！
天已近黄昏，我们准备返回县城了。在国殇墓园门口，叫住一辆出租车，于是认识了我们后几天包车的司机---李其堂，一个精神的小伙子。我们看他人很实在，就谈妥明天包他的车去云峰山和火山公园，早上7点半到酒店来接我们。交通问题解决了，我们又踏实了许多，晚上到一家吃野山菌火锅的饭馆饱餐了一顿。
Travel tips and related information:
1. 如果你运气好能够住在热海景区里面的酒店，那是很爽的一件事。早上起来到热海以外的地方玩耍，晚上回到热海，去“大滚锅”旁泡脚、按摩，或者顶着星星在温泉游泳池里游泳、泡泡温泉浴，洗尽一身疲劳，晚上睡个好觉。热海里面有两家较大的酒店，“热海明珠大酒店”和“热海大酒店”，推荐住宿。
热海明珠大酒店强烈推荐。条件好，而且酒店里面有自己的温泉游泳池、按摩室、热蒸房，可以泡、蒸、熏，干净又不用排队。
电话：0875-9250380
标间房价约在250元/间左右。
热海大酒店一进热海景区大门即到，比明珠酒店稍旧一些。
电话：0875-5150366
2. 如果你像我们一样，没能住在热海，那么一定要赶在一清早去热海景区，趁着天气凉爽的时候游览。景区内地热丰富，温度很高，如果中午前往，恐怕有点吃不消。 “公共汽车”前往热海车票5元/人。热海门票30元/人，原来是20元，十一刚刚涨价。
3. 我们做的全套泡脚、按摩、拔水罐服务，大约1小时，泡脚可以无限制地续水，两人一共90元。
4、从热海去和顺没有直达车，可以几个人拼一辆出租车，小面包车的价格是20元，不到半小时即可到达。和顺侨乡门票20元/人。
5. 从和顺到叠水河瀑布出租车5元，叠水河瀑布门票10元/人（不推荐，除非你有的是时间，又想走遍腾冲所有景点）。
6. 国殇墓园门票10元/人，返回县城出租车价格5元。由于叠水河瀑布和国殇墓园都在城边，所以出租车都按照县城内5元的价格，收费合理。
7. 几个人拼成一辆车也可以前去云峰山和火山公园，但是需要等人凑满一辆车才走，时间不灵活，但是价格相对便宜。我们则愿意自己掌握时间，所以包车前往，包车的价格是260元/天。
司机李其堂手机：13987573833
8. 洗温泉的浴池在腾冲有很多处，当地人还有一些“自留地”，分单双日分别对男女开放。腾冲地区还有一些毒气水塘，如“扯雀塘”和“醉鸟井”，其实是天然的毒气孔，冒出的气体中含有大量硫化氢和其他强毒性气体。 “扯雀塘”位于县城北曲石乡小鱼塘村附近，一米见方的一个浅坑，并不起眼，我们未去。
2002年10月3日 星期四 腾冲---云峰山、火山公园、柱状节理 晴转阵雨
尹莉和我又到回族饭馆吃鸡蛋饵丝作为早饭，刚吃完，司机小李就来接我们了。他开来了刚买2个月的黑色桑塔纳2000，说他太太这几天在县城里开那辆夏利跑出租，我们走远路就坐好一点的车。
云峰山位于腾冲县城西55公里，海拔并不很高，2445米，相对高度650米。山不在高，有仙则名，云峰山是滇西名山，又是有名的道教名山。我们来到山脚下还不到9点钟，天气凉爽。有两种上山方式，自己走上山，或是乘坐索道缆车。你以为我们会选择那条路线？那还用问，一定是自己走上山啦！刚刚踏上石台阶，就有几个人对我们说：“自己走上去？多累啊！”我们淡然一笑，“慢慢走嘛。”（其实我对他们这些人十分不解，上山吧，不走，要坐索道，又不是七老八十地走不动了。旅游，是放松，是体验生活。不要告诉自己今天一定要去多少个景点，要问问自己今天玩得好吗？快乐吗？）
云峰山有著名的“三折云梯”，将近2700级石台阶（确切地说，是2683级台阶），蜿蜒曲折一直通向山顶。 （我在来之前从网上找到某“驴友”之文章，说“云峰山一共有1000级台阶”，我们在攀登了几百级台阶后，觉得怎么离山顶还那么远？询问一脚步轻快的当地人才知道，这才走了五分之一！可见，写旅行游记一定要实事求是，力求资料详尽且准确，否则真是“害人不浅”啊！）除了2700级台阶以外，每200级台阶左右，还会有一段土路缓坡，所以爬云峰山比我们想象的确实要艰难一些。尤其是到了最后的500米，台阶又陡又窄，须手攀铁链，小心前行。早上起来云层很低，随着我们往山上走，太阳渐渐升起来，云也开始向上蒸腾，象是在跟我们赛跑。最终，我们站到云海之上了，那种胜利者的感觉恐怕是坐索道者永远体会不到的。但是我们的双腿由于和云彩赛跑经受了艰巨的考验，在今后的几天里确实给了我们点颜色看看---非常酸痛！即便这样，那种“一览众山小”的感觉还是让我们很满足。
用2个小时上山，而下山只用了23分钟。
前往火山公园的路上，小李带我们去看了两个小小的火山湖，当地人叫“大龙潭”和“小龙潭”，也就是“顺江姊妹火山湖”，湖水清澈，但是湖面却不大。听小李说，其实他们以前也不知道腾冲地区有这么多火山遗迹，科学家们来考察以后，发现腾冲处处是火山，在这广达260平方公里的土地上，共有90多座火山及熔岩流遗迹。一路上，我们看到当地人就地取材，很多民居的屋基、桥墩、巷道，都是用蜂窝状的熔岩泡沫石砌成，别有情趣。
腾冲地区的火山大多是死火山或者休眠火山，为我国西南最典型的第四纪火山。位于县城西北10公里的马站、固东一带，有数座火山锥，被开辟为“火山群国家公园”。其中大空山、小空山和黑空山象姊妹三个排成一排，而“打鹰山”是腾冲地区最高的火山（2595米），也是保留最完整的一座火山，位于腾冲火山群的中心地带，据说熔岩表面无风化层，流动构造相当清楚。我们不是地质工作者，就选择了已经修好上山道路的大空山。在爬过云峰山后，有些疲惫的我们就连上大空山也气喘吁吁的（大空山不算高，相对高度也就50米）。
真正见到火山，和我的想象还是有一定距离的。我原以为，火山表面应该满是岩浆泡沫石，火山口里是碧蓝的火山湖，而火山脚下是岩浆流过的痕迹。其实经过亿万年的风化，古老的火山表面已经被风化，山上长满了大树（火山上长的树相比其他山上的树来说，长得矮小一些。），熔岩流的痕迹也被风化，地上也长满了草，还有，并不是每一座火山口都会形成火山湖的，大、小空山和黑空山都没有形成火山湖。登上大空山，当年的火山口已经长满了灌木，有几个喜欢探险的朋友还走到火山口底下去一探究竟，但那亿万年前地球的出气孔早已经关闭了。从大空山上看小空山一览无余，形状与大空山无异，都是属于“截顶圆锥状火山”，打鹰山也是此形状；此外，火山还有“盾状火山”、“金字塔火山”、“低平马耳式火山”等，我们到处找寻着，只要一看到平顶的山，就问小李：“那也是一座火山吧？”小李却说：“这里火山太多了，我也说不清哪些是，哪些不是。”
待看到“柱状节理”时，我再一次被大自然的力量深深震撼了。这是一种喷出岩在岩浆冷凝过程中形成，以玄武岩柱状节理为多见的奇特景观。在熔岩河谷断裂陡壁上，6棱状的柱状节理有的水平，有的垂直，有的倾斜，有的弯曲，自然地组合成一幅幅壮观的巨型浮雕作品。自然界的力量如此伟大，当自然震怒时，人类渺小的身躯是何等的不堪一击！地震、火山、洪水……人类无法与之抗衡，人类不是万物的主宰，只是万物世界中的一员，是特殊的一员，仅此而已。
返回县城的路上，开始下起阵雨。云南的天气多变，正是所谓“气象万千”。一会是乌云低低地压着，豆大的雨点打在车窗上啪啪作响，不一会，又雨过天晴。原来听说罗平地区的油菜花很美，当金黄色的油菜花绽开之时，层层叠叠的梯田就像洒满了金子一般。一问小李，他说，我们这里也种油菜，但不是这个季节。现在是麦子成熟的季节，黄灿灿的麦子压弯了腰，农民们在田地里收获着，这景象宛如一幅画卷，很像是俄国画家米勒笔下描绘的《拾麦穗者》。我们不停地按动快门，司机小李不解地问我们：“这有什么好看的？”我们笑而不答。
云南不但马儿个头小，连骡子的个头也不大。我总是“指骡为驴”，被小李纠正好几回才改正过来。自然界的进化也真是有趣，哺乳动物到了南方个头就小一些，可是其他动物和植物到了南方却长得很大。北方人常在花盆里栽一种带刺开小红花的植物，叫“刺梅”，但是我在西双版纳见到它的时候，确是2米多高的一株巨型灌木，连名字都变了，叫“霸王鞭”。 Good magic!
Travel tips and related information:
1. 书上说，当年徐霞客来到云峰山，十分留连，还曾在山上住了两宿，有些“驴友”也推荐可在山上小住一晚，我们就去考察了一下住宿情况。结果是这样的---如果你是那种头一沾枕头就能睡着的人，或者是对于住宿条件无所谓的人还可以考虑住宿，否则劝你就别想了。
2. 这一天的行程下来还是挺辛苦的，要是能住在热海就好了，晚上回去还能泡脚、按摩……放松一下。
2002年10月4日 星期五 盈江、腾冲---坝派巨泉（出水洞）、荷花乡 晴
早上照例去回民饭馆吃鸡蛋饵丝，司机小李准时来接我们，今天我们计划先去“坝派巨泉”。碰巧小李就是荷花乡人，而“坝派巨泉”就在荷花乡，他非常熟悉。小李看上去很腼腆，但是慢慢熟了，发现他也挺爱说话的。他个子不高，黑黑瘦瘦、大眼睛、高颧骨，典型云南人的长相。尹莉和我坐在后排叽叽喳喳地聊天，时不常问他一些腾冲当地的情况，他就一一解答。
腾冲是我到过的唯一没有老外的地方，甚至连云南省外的旅游者都不多。据说，每年来腾冲旅游的人90%是云南人，而这其中又以昆明人为主（十一这几天腾冲的汽车很多，一看牌照，云A的占绝大多数）。所以当我们说是从北京来的时候，小李还奇怪的问我们：“你们怎么知道腾冲这个地方的？”其实，这还是我们出来之前的的准备工作做得细致，我在网上查询了很多有关腾冲的资料，所以不但我对腾冲这个地名并不陌生，甚至连旅游景点我都能够如数家珍般地通通说出，有些地方和资讯甚至是他也不熟悉的，这令小李惊讶不以。 （在我们即将离开腾冲的时候，小李还特意复印了我的几份旅行资料，我也答应他当我写完这篇游记的时候会给他寄去。）聊得兴起，小李突然问我们：“你们在家里也这么说话吗？你们说话就象电视里面的声音一样标准。”逗得我们哈哈大笑。 （北京人这点很吃亏，各个地区的人都有方言，俩人在一起说方言，别人就听不懂了，可我们说什么别人都能听得懂，一点秘密都没有。）聊着聊着，“呀！我们走过了！”得，尽顾着聊天，忘了看路了。 “那我们这是朝什么方向开？”我们问小王，“盈江，没事，我调个头，再开回荷花乡去”。 “算了吧，既然已经走错了，干脆就去盈江吧，反正也不算太远！”我们将错就错。
盈江在腾冲西南大约100公里，属于云南省德宏地区（“德宏”一词傣语意为怒江下游的地方）。虽然距离腾冲并不很远，但是气候却有很大不同，潮湿、闷热，属于亚热带雨林型气候。德宏地区有很多大榕树，德宏人称之为“大青树”。榕树的气根入土又能长成新的树根，新跟老干纠缠在一起，整棵树、枝连枝、枝连根，构成一个整体，洋洋洒洒一大片。在德宏地区，就有“独木成林”的奇观。我们在盈江看到很多大榕树，虽然不是那棵“榕树王”，但是其巨大也足够让我们惊叹的。
我在旅行途中一直都随身背着几本旅行图书和从网上打印下来的“驴友”的文章，书上介绍盈江县城东南15公里有一佛塔，名曰“允燕佛塔”，从照片上看去觉得不错，就要求司机小李直接开车前去。允燕佛塔是因为其坐落在允燕山上得名，主塔高20米，周围还有40个小塔，佛塔造型精致，是东南亚传统的佛塔建筑工艺。从车上下来，车外的热浪让我们错不急防，差点又把我们推回到车里去，我就向尹莉介绍：“西双版纳就是这样的天气。”
允燕佛塔的旁边有一片比较开阔的广场，在广场边上的大树下，很多傣族人正在玩一种具有浓郁地方特色的赌博游戏，小李说那叫“拉老刀（念二声）”。在一个用床板支起的支架上，有三个巨大的色子，色子的每一面都画有一种动物的图样，参与者随便押宝在某一种动物图案，待色子从床板上滚落，押中色子向上那面的动物即为赢。只听得先是“轰隆轰隆”大色子从床板滚落的声音，然后就是欢呼声或是叹气声。这种游戏大家玩的都是5块、10块钱，所以赢输都不会伤筋动骨。
广场另一侧正对着允燕佛塔的是允燕寺，寺里供奉着云南省最大的汉白玉佛。据小李说这里有一个德高望重的高僧，当地傣族人非常敬重他，尹莉在庙里拜了一拜。我们看到不远处还有一块空地，中间竖着两根高高的画有鲜明几何图案的的立柱，我在北京的“民族园”曾经见到过，这是景颇族进行“目脑纵歌”的广场。 （“目脑”在景颇语中是大家欢聚、唱歌跳舞的意思。）景颇族人很豪放，每逢节日或婚丧嫁娶，都要举行“目脑纵歌”的仪式，大家一起唱歌、跳舞、喝酒，场面十分热烈。小李坦白说他曾经有过一个豪爽的景颇族女朋友，跟汉族女孩很不同，大块吃肉、大碗喝酒，敢爱敢恨，但是后来他发现，俩人性格差异太大了，所以还是分手了。 （小李现在的太太是一个娇小的汉族女孩，很是温柔。）
过了正午，尹莉和我终于来到了荷花乡的“坝派巨泉”。腾冲地区地质地貌多姿，除了火山地热之外，还有不少地下水和暗河。在那些处于休眠状态的火山脚下，分布着许许多多地下水。位于和顺侨乡附近的“马鞍山”山体内就有两条神秘的暗河，一条在火山熔岩下的暗河已经干涸；而另一条暗河位于山体底部，水却从十几公里以外的荷花乡附近大盈江边涌出，荷花乡人称这泉水为“出水洞”，而现在它也有了个更加体面的名字叫“坝派巨泉”。此泉水是罕见的低温热泉，因出水量大，所以称为“巨泉”。
我们沿着乡间小路蜿蜒而行，农民们正在收割水稻，一捆捆水稻整整齐齐地堆在田边。我慢下脚步用手轻抚水稻的叶子，轻触那叶子边上小小的倒刺。在上小学前我曾经在农村住过，也曾在田地里嬉戏玩耍，甚至被稻子叶上的倒刺划伤了手指。现在再不会了，再不会发生叶子划伤手指的事了，经验就是在时间的慢慢流逝中不断积累起来的。
荷花乡不象热海和火山，到处能够让你体会大地的气息，这里风光秀丽、宁静，郁郁葱葱的芭蕉林从巨泉中长出，蕉叶肥大、极其茂盛。清泉从岩缝里、沙石中钻挤而出，水绕蕉流，蕉伴水生。人若是经常泡温泉能够驱除百病、延年益寿，看来植物天天泡温泉也是益处多多，能够长得葱郁挺秀。小李说他小的时候常在这里洗澡、游泳，我们没带游泳衣，又不愿玷污这清澈的泉水，于是就跑到巨泉出水口，掬一捧甘冽的泉水入口，让旅途的劳顿消失殆尽。
流连在这美景之中，小李用手指向对面的山坡：“那面就是我的家，你们想不想到我家去做客？”顺着他指的方向看去，层层的梯田和大片茂密的竹林掩映之处便是他的家了，看看时间尚早，我们接受了他的邀请。小李有个姐姐，和我年龄一般大，而他又和我弟弟同岁，纯属巧合，他打电话约上姐姐一起回家。小李虽然就住在腾冲县城，距离荷花乡很近，但是也有一年没有回家看望父母了。现代人就是如此，得到了很多，唯独疏远了亲情。小李家在荷花乡杏塘村石崖脚，汽车只能开到村公所，剩下的一公里需要步行到达，这本难不倒我们，只是昨日爬云峰山，今日双腿十分酸痛，走一会就好多了。村里很少有客人来访，我们这两个外地人的到来引起了不少村民的注意，尤其是我俩纯正的北京口音，让杏塘村人感到十分有趣，他们总是找些话题让我们开口说话，然后象得到印证一般互相点点头，说：“她们讲话真好听，象播音员一样！”弄得我们还真有点不好意思。现在，我门现在已经能听懂部分腾冲话了，就是一句也不会说，只能说标准普通话，一听就是外来人口。
小李的姐姐个子高高的，大眼睛、挺漂亮，很疼爱自己的弟弟，言谈话语中总是流露出对弟弟的关心；她还带来了自己的女儿，这个漂亮的5岁小女孩一点不见外，没一会就和我们烂熟了，总是“娘娘、娘娘（一声）”的叫着；小李的父母是本分的农民，60多岁了还每天下地干农活，看上去身体硬朗，而且显得很年轻；小李姐弟二人都在腾冲县城安家了，只有一个弟弟还留在荷花乡，24岁了还没对象，着实是父母的一块心病。弟弟想讨一个漂亮的、身材好的媳妇，可是父母和哥哥姐姐都认为漂亮不能当饭吃，应该找一个能下地干活的媳妇，双方争执不下。 （希望小李的弟弟能够早日找到一位既漂亮又能干的媳妇，如果你认识这样的人选一定别忘了推荐！）
小李的父母和姐姐在厨房开始忙活着做晚饭，小李和他弟弟带着尹莉和我，再加上那个5岁的“小尾巴”一起到菜园去摘菜。我们用小刀从地上割韭菜，小李拿到泉水旁去洗净；我爬到石头上去摘藤上的“佛手瓜”，摘下来扔到地上，尹莉再把我扔到下的瓜装进篮子；小李的弟弟到地里给我们砍甘蔗，于是我们人手一根削过皮的新鲜甘蔗……晚饭很丰盛，除了有我们刚刚采摘的新鲜瓜果外，还有尹莉和我爱吃的腾冲酸菜。在腾冲，当地人几乎餐餐都要吃这种自制的干腌菜，我不必告诉你如何腌制，只要你记得来腾冲一定要尝一尝就够了。
晚饭后，又有几个村里人照例来小李家串门，看到我的数码相机觉得很神奇，几个小伙子脑袋挤在一起看我这几天照的相片，还啧啧称赞着，一直看到电池完全耗尽连镜头都无法收回为止。
Travel tips and related information:
1. 盈江其实没什么太好玩的，不太值得专程去一趟。听司机小李介绍说芒市还不错，可以直接坐车从腾冲出发，经梁河到芒市，大约130公里。我没有去过，不好评价。梁河也是一个县城，距离腾冲大约50公里，有“南甸土司衙门”，不值得逗留，我们路过没有进去，只是停下来照了张相。
2. 荷花乡坝派巨泉距离腾冲城西南32公里，门票5元/人。
2002年10月5日 星期六 腾冲北海湿地-保山-昆明
早上在回民饭馆吃了在腾冲的最后一顿鸡蛋饵丝。这时，我们和老板娘也已经成了熟人了，她用浓重的腾冲口音问我们今天去哪里，还要住几天。我们告诉她，上午去北海湿地，下午离开腾冲去保山，晚上坐飞机到昆明。
司机小李照例准时来接我们。
北海，是国家级湿地保护区。 （相信大多数人和我一样，对于什么是“湿地”可能不太了解，于是我查阅了《不列颠百科全书》，答案是这样的---“湿地（沼泽），路上的生态系统，特征是排水差，因而大部或全部时间内有缓慢流动的水或滞留水渗入土壤中。通常根据土壤和植物区分为酸沼（酸性沼泽）、草本沼泽和森林沼泽。”现在你明白了吧？湿地其实就是沼泽，北海湿地是草本沼泽。）北海湿地是由青海和北海两个天然湖泊组成，青海在北海东部的中山之间，是典型的高山湖泊，是世界上仅有的三个酸性水湖之一。我们没有去青海，只去了北海。
看到网上“驴友”说到“青海无底北海无边”，我以为北海一定非常广袤，一望无际，到了才发现，没有想象的那样大，是能看到边的。站在岸上，没发现北海有什么特别之处，不过是青山环抱之间的一大片美丽的草地而已。而当进入到她的怀抱中时，我们才真正领略到她的与众不同，她的身躯是如此柔软！北海的水面上覆盖着大片的厚一米的草甸，草甸之上生长着茂盛的野草、低矮的地衣和各种野花。草根密密地交织成一个整体，象一张巨大的草网，能承受很大的压力。工作人员在草甸比较厚实的区域作出标记，并且拉上安全网，叫做“湿地体验区”，游人可以踩到上面。踏上这厚厚的草甸，就感到大地在晃动、在下陷，水从草甸下面渗上来。移步前行，草甸又恢复如初。虽说在这里应该是很安全的，但我还是有点害怕，生怕这千人踩、万人踏的草甸万一有些不结实，断裂了，人掉下去都不会被发现。于是尹莉和我边走边商量着，万一有险情，就赶紧躺在草甸上增大压强，人就不会马上陷下去了，好在有惊无险。原本听说这里有“划草”比赛，就是将草甸割下一米见方的一块，人站在上面，用桨划着走。询问了工作人员，说这个季节没有，因为草根开始腐烂了，不安全。据说在每年4、5月份的时候，北海水面上漫布一种叫做“北海兰”的小花，那时北海就像一条巨型花毯，很美。而且那时草很新鲜，也可以划草，我们现在无缘体验了。
在腾冲的最后一顿午餐是在小李家吃的，他邀请我们去他家，他的丈母娘、太太、3岁的女儿以及姐姐、姐夫和外甥女都在。我发现腾冲人很是好客，虽然我们刚刚相识，已熟识得像老朋友一般了。小李向他姐姐介绍说我有好多介绍腾冲的文章（都是我从网上打印下来的），我就拿出来让他们看。小李姐弟边读边笑，还挑出了一些他们认为精彩的文章去复印，说以后可以向游客做介绍。
下午2点钟，坐上了从腾冲开往保山的长途车（我在丽江的时候就已经买好了保山飞昆明的机票了）。从保山飞昆明的航班每天只有一班，是从昆明飞来保山再折回的航班。我们的飞机晚点一个多小时，抵达昆明的时候已经是晚上11点半了。吃了夜宵（其实是晚饭，因为保山机场实在太小了，连餐厅都没有，我们就一直饿到这时候！），四下问问，知道我们住的酒店附近有一个大型花卉市场，于是想好明天一大早去逛花市。
Travel tips and related information:
1. 到北海湿地一定要准备拖鞋、短裤和毛巾。我们听了小李的建议，是有备而来，换上短裤穿上拖鞋，去体验草本沼泽，不怕湿了裤子和鞋，回来还能擦干净。有些人穿着长裤就惨了，满是泥水，又脏又湿。
2. 从腾冲到保山坐长途车需要3个半小时，多半都是中巴，票价35元/人。
3. 从保山市区到机场出租车为25-30元，我们乘坐的出租车收了40元，想打电话投诉，但是十一休息，没人值班。
4. 从芒市飞往昆明的飞机航班要更多一些，机场也要大一些，而且从腾冲前往芒市和保山的时间也差不多，建议走芒市。
5. 在昆明的酒店是昆明威龙酒店，标间160元/天。
2002年10月6日 星期日 昆明---北京 晴
尹莉和我都不是贪睡的人，一大早，我们就收拾停当，出了酒店前去花卉市场。
昆明是春城，一年四季鲜花盛开，昆明的花卉市场也的确不同凡响。快到花市的时候，就看到不少人已经满载而归了，他们或肩扛、手提，或把花绑在自行车上，还有的装满汽车，看得我们心痒痒的，不由得加快了脚步。一进花市，我们就淹没在了鲜花的海洋中，各种鲜切花、盆栽花应有尽有！最夸张的是价格，便宜的差点把我们俩乐背过气！ 20支一束的康乃馨3块，玫瑰5块，百合、蝴蝶兰、火鹤等等也都便宜得让人咋舌！我们顿时很是同情北方的男孩子，到了情人节的时候，买一束花给女朋友怎么也得上百块钱，一支玫瑰还能卖到好几十呢！人家昆明男孩子得多幸福！
到了昆明花市不买花简直就对不起自己！我们毫不含糊，一人挑了一个大纸箱子，就是能空运的那种，掰着手指头，这种来些、那种要点，没一会两个箱子就装满了，我们竟然还未尽兴！没办法，实在拿不了了！一算账，两箱花加起来还不到100块钱呢！ （后来到机场，好多游人说机场的鲜花便宜，我们一看价格，心里这个美就甭提了，相互击掌表示庆祝！）
旅行结束了，我们又被拉回到了现实世界中。
每个人都会在这个世界上找到一片属于自己的天空，就象是在寻找自己的爱人一般，别强求，一切顺其自然，大概云南就有我的那片天，你找到你自己的那片天了吗？
放飞云南，我的天空。
End
Xiaopeng
完稿与2002年11月24日星期日
Author: 00,597,531
