In 2002, from August 12 to August 22 10 days time, I lingered in Yunnan, Lijiang, Zhongdian, "Shangri-La" and between Kunming. Life for the first time travel for so long, so far, and perhaps this is my long-awaited trip to freedom, and perhaps this is my idea of a pilgrimage - towards my dream paradise, where I can forget the sadness, back life is about to lose courage. It is with this belief, I embarked on a Caiyunzhinan, lost in the ancient town of Lijiang in small bridges, the lost in the Yulong Snow Mountain in the luxuriant pine forests, grasslands Boundless lost in the ira between water waves.
My traveling companion want to go to Lijiang has been a year and a half years. Last year, 51 students have two to play for a week, let me envious, but the then cash-strapped and can only give up the idea, until this summer, can only take place. Advertisements posted in the building for a few days look for companions, has incurred a beautiful girl in Chengdu, and her friend Lee-feng, knight three walk began. Although the peak is the only man, but in no way put scarcity value of the shelf: he way thankless, backpack, camera, sleeping floor, invited him to dinner invariably take the lead; even more interesting is that he brought a digital camera and several Zhang memory card, let me and Lee both put enough pose, in particular, benefits, Huo Tuotuo a professional camera killer: The soft white Keren on, whenever the peak hand from machine flash, her cheeks once more thrown Enchanting smile, beautiful. While the hard-working Quefei peak boring old ox, there are always countless jokes along the way to disperse because of the rain brought a lot of frustrations. But bargain Both are masters, so I often sit back and enjoy. Thank you two companions, to make my trip more than a lot of apathy in Yunnan.
In addition to the advantages and peaks in Chengdu, the Amos and it can be half a traveling companion bar! He came from Israel, the three-year-old, and it still seems like a playful spirit, laugh a little boy. Know him by accident: He and we ride with a long-distance bus from Lijiang to Panzhihua bumps, and we rely on close sleeper. I have seen some foreigners, not good close to his face often hung out of disdain, it is my impression of foreigners Huotuo Tuo's "Pride and Prejudice." So at first I have not Zhengyan Qiao Amos, thinking perhaps that this foreigner is a China hand, do not need the help of others, without self-knocked.
Panzhihua strange way to Lijiang to go all the way bumpy muddy, if not called luxury sleeper car is too narrow and crowded inside and the air was dirty and worn-out dirty bear, which ups and downs may also be regarded as a cradle-like pleasure. Starting from 12:30, went to the evening 78 points, the car stuck in an unknown valley of Yunnan, the front of landslides, the car has been unable to move forward. Amos did not understand why cars do not go, shop around to find, followed by a big man, speaking in English, but a half-day half-baked not explain that this way, I took the words to tell him cause and effect. He immediately put me very happy to talk about them: far apart from his travel routes, Israel and the Palestinian question, Israel and the United States, religious war, has been talking about Chinese Confucianism and Judaism differences. Amos is estimated to China on a long time since there is no such communication with others, so Tanxing particularly thick, could not bear to let it go. Lee and the peak in the side of the mad Lianting Li, and sometimes completely contrary to the understanding of the two, we have to discuss a dispute about it, and then laughing incessantly. Peak to the Amos took a digital photo, and then pointed at the photo on the beaming Amos said: "He may be the most happy the car tonight, a man of the bar!" We are tickled pink.
Amos is a smart Jewish man who studied hard, in addition to Hebrew and English, in addition, but also speak fluent Spanish. He is also a Chinese one not, holding a travel guide on the Hebrew alone broke into China, and really do not Gao Ren Yi was bold. He plans to use a month's time to get some well-known scenic spots traveled: Tour of Beijing, flew to Sichuan Jiuzhaigou Huanglong, to Lijiang, then go to Dali, Guilin has been followed by way south to Hong Kong. He learned to speak Chinese "Thank you", we feel that sound like "hee hee," he even learned to say the Chinglish (Chinese English) - I said to him, "hee hee," he said, grinning: "no hee hee!" In the coming days, several people in these two words become our mantra. The most classic or in the Yulong Snow Mountain, he was very interested in several of the Tibetan girl, I taught him to say two words: "male" and "beauty." From then on out of control, telling everyone that he called "male", "US-Niu" (because he was unable to pronounce the female characters sound)! When he was facing the one, whether from any point of view, no matter how tolerant are the observer perspective can not be called handsome guy in middle-aged man shouted handsome guy, we all can not help but heave a deep sigh of his aesthetic. Then finally one girl responded to his good name him handsome guy, he was excited to say: "I came to understand, ha ha! She called me handsome guy!"
Amos is indeed the Jews, is very thrifty smart, he explained that the reason why the bus ride to Lijiang, in order to save money instead of flying. When the mud the next day we walked several hundred meters to go Yongsheng dangerous slope ride to Lijiang in China and Pakistan and then the coachman, he also said, grinning spent sixty dollars sat two dozen hours of bus is simply too cost-effective, and let We have to admire his "revolutionary optimism."
Amos is not only a thrifty Jew, or a very pious Jews. Because of his piety, made him unable to join us to enjoy casual dining and Saturday trips, I am sympathetic to him, but more often admiration. Who does not know the circumstances, he is still clinging to maintain his own beliefs and principles, such persistence, not everyone will be there. In Lijiang, he stayed with us two days later, they left went to the Dali, before leaving, but also gave each of us as souvenirs. Lee is a national embroidered backpack, embroidered peak is a wallet, my brother Art Space is a production of wood craft Dongba paper disc, Dongba context of "all wishes come true," God knows how he do not understand Chinese know how to pick these auspicious words? He also wrote a "Thank you, Champion", it really touched me. Two days after the three of us from time to time referred to Amos, it has a childlike innocence smile and eyes of the foreigner. Such naive, in a three-year-old human beings, not so common, why it seems valuable and unforgettable.
We live in Dongba inns, some distance away from the Square Street, but the distance just in a quiet and tranquility so that we spent a lot of good days. Inn is not, a small two-storey Mulou courtyard houses, rooms clean and tidy. For the convenience of guests, the landlord is also specially built two bathrooms and two toilets. Landlord teachers and Zhao Shen enthusiasm and care to give us a warm home-like feel. Inn is a pont a door and a tall bamboo Magnolia tree in the courtyard of many kinds of flora, an arch left hanging after a full pear fruit, but the tenants are very conscious, and they never Quzhai fruit . In short, the entire Inn with the landlord, are very user-friendly.
Town have been thinking about, a small town, why do so many far apart to attract tourists? Many others in the online search of information described in ancient town of Lijiang, indeed fascinating, but let me quietly worried that expectations are too high, will not be disappointed also deeply? Fortunately, Lijiang in her quiet beauty of inclusion, in response to my disturbed heart. Indeed, such as our predecessors have said, surrounded by ancient town of Lijiang in the Metro. Walk in the Park, the town can not help but worry about the name than in reality; however, when we are under the leadership of the landlord through the Metro cement tiles, along the stream into the stone walls of the town when the Red House gray tiles, then a fresh , the fragrance filled the feeling in the air, gently, and faint, but it is firm, penetrating to the whole life, not only because that alley floor on both sides of the courtyard full of flowers, there is then a kind of quiet breath, and the old buildings, idle water, let me relax nerves stretched to the limit down. I remember last night huddled in filthy stench of the bus where the neck Shengteng sleep, I also suspect that when they could put an end to torture; Now, to this encounter with the Lijiang, I am willing to endure that inconvenience; as to a glorious love, we may have to spend Hundred Years of Solitude.
Just go to the morning was still raining, and we began to clear up the arrival of the afternoon, and so we lose no time to teach you ancient town. Rain has just stopped, the multicolored stone stone-paved path of the light given oily, extremely easy to step on the foot. We are holding a map, all the way from 71 Street, wander the Square Street. Sure enough, people are coming here to go to crowded. Street full of a variety of shops, all kinds of handicrafts, souvenirs, silver shops, ethnic clothing stores and so on, but it appears to be through well-developed tourism industry and the breeding up, is not unique to the Naxi customs, loses its special features. Daoshi sitting in a corner flower cloth hood, and Kao Yumi Naxi grandma who let me feel warm, they wear traditional Naxi clothing - daytime vertical and horizontal face gully filled with vicissitudes. Morning and evening, there will be a number of old ladies gathered in the Square Street Plaza, next to the flower bed edges, small groups, using words chatter Naxi lives on, laughing, the clear sky.
Gone through a closed door, the water suddenly big sound together, and every household weeping willow springs pictures of every family was finally completely unfolded before our eyes. Street of restaurants, bars hanging strings of red lanterns, a river of wood connected at both ends of some urgent water potential, but it is very pleasant, it seems that the pulse of the town is so full of life on the passionate beat. However, it is unpleasant to the whirlpool rapids play in swaying a few mineral water bottles, let me once again suspected of tourists to Lijiang, in the end to bring something. What impressed me most were those eyeful of flowers in full bloom the street, in the rain more Qingli bright. With red and yellow colors are mostly gray tone in the town under the very eye-catching and harmonious.
The first night spent in the rush of shopping. The lively crowd, hovering lotus lamp, laid-back air, slowly flowing water, river laundry Naxi woman, when the night falls the river and the shiny red lantern clubbing people, reminding us of scenes dream. However, the favorite, or a person slowly read the ancient town of Lijiang in free and relaxed, regardless of the direction of how there are roads left, often come to the courtyard and the delicate simplicity of a smile go. This is the next day to find the real. Yulong Snow Mountain from the back, Lee and the peak to the Park to enjoy hot pot, Amos Inn is back to make their own dinner, I went to the sunset of the evening a man brought a map of wandering in the streets of the town. Ms. Anna me the most residential areas than more than gardens, its unique and sophisticated let me breath. Patio, screen wall, gallery hand, carved pillars and even doors and windows are elegant without being flashy, quaint brick walls without being clumsy. In this way, I am a person in the twilight years have gone through numerous alleys, each saw a flower-decked courtyard to dig into a quick photo a pass photo, like a suffering from unrequited love of the young man suddenly caught up in the water side of the Mai, Hen Buneng a football in the bosom, from appearance Sishou. Hospitality of the host family often invited me into the tea inside, and look at me, smiling like an ignorant child looked around.
In Lijiang, the last day, I saw the morning of the town. Sunny day, compared to the rain and dusk, but also different kind charm. The streets were far fewer, probably taking advantage of sunny spots to play around, while the town and the small river near sanyanjing, Kap Shui Mun, vegetables, laundry people have increased recently. Asaka Liuniao old marched dressed leisurely pace, leisurely stroll in the lanes. Knew that Naxi men living a happy day: the man inside the female controls, the Naxi woman's smart and able to create a generation versed in literature, the Naxi men, it is they who let circulated a few thousand years of Chinese ancient music can be preserved. Although the self-proclaimed them to the farmers, but those to refund the ecological system of the elderly, to where the one-stop, there is a kind of placid, magnanimity and wisdom, grace and magnanimity that is archaic accumulation. And allow them to such archaic Yayun than to maximize performance of the Naxi ancient music. That morning at the White Horse Longtan Temple, saw a group of such senior elders dressed in robes, holding qin, pipa and other traditional musical instruments, sat opposite lake pavilion, is like a landscape. When the three hundred Qiming, melodious music to play the flourishing school of meteorology, a very old Yaotouhuangnao, eyes Weibi, hit festival songs, high voice loud and revel in their own world, two things I forgot. He sang the Naxi language, nobody knows its meaning, but the song has already disclosed the share of impassioned let me intoxicated. I sat in the pavilion next to the sound of music sometimes like to listen to, kept trained on the gentle breeze, sometimes like swing excitation currents, sometimes as thin rain, my whole entire inclusion in, tears quietly streaming out, it seems that the heart has been suddenly have a struck a chord, it is a long-lost feeling both strange and familiar, both sweet bitterness again. Say that music can wash away a person's soul, and I, in this music, it seems to have found an invisible force. Or is that these musicians for the elderly, so that the ancient music is more of a steady and impressive.
People may have been to town would buy the last hand-drawn map of Lijiang ancient town bar, above, there is a saying when he said: the beauty of Lijiang, not water, not in flower, but in people. It is these simple and hard-working Naxi people have created the town's past, today, but also the future. Without them, the water of the odd? What is odd to spend? This is not the natural beauty of the resort, but an artificial construction of a small town. Let the town has become so attractive, it is that antique Naxi culture, culture and customs, exactly the kind of leisure and tranquility of the Naxi people, for thousands of years to cultivate leisurely temperament, the kind of simplicity and goodness is the Naxi people's life skills way.
Let me worry is that tourism has brought prosperity to the Lijiang new things, has brought economic development, but also brought a strong commercial atmosphere. Simple integrity and morals can keep it? When a shop owner and I chatted gave an example: There is a famous person to flowering plants, very early on, when there are tourists to visit their flowers, and sigh, they live hard, to give some of their tour fees, was that they refused, even chase out the door is far better to send money back to visitors; And now, they swing-up of the national costume at the door, letting to tourists photography, into the courtyard to visit the flower should Contributions. Many tourists are from the city came to town, here is relaxed and easy to praise, and many town's young people are yearning for a distant city, impatient with this piece of land. How to save the ancient Naxi culture continues, and it is not subject to excessive pollution of modern civilization, or it can continue to maintain its own characteristics, it would be a very serious problem.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain: one lake to the next day in Lijiang, the weather good, the morning sun will have a meaning. Amos and our peers, four packets of a Xiali, went straight away Yulong Snow Mountain. The driver is very enthusiastic about along the way to us about folk customs, but also to the place we recommend a good camera. The first attraction is Ganhaizi. At that time surrounded by mountains in a large meadow, a long with umbrella pines, the original in full bloom on a small yellow and purple wildflowers, when the sky comes surging, sometimes dark clouds swept over distant mountain ridges, grasslands, also appears to quiet silent; sometimes clouds drifting past the days to open, the sun just lit the whole Ganhaizi surrounded by gloomy mountain grassland will be surrounded by a shiny, like when a pair of open eyes closed, when the engageante eyes stare brilliance.
From Ganhaizi continue to proceed on the road also see the confluence of three rivers valleys of the majestic cliffs of the momentum, we finally came to the foot of Maoniuping. Wait lasts an hour, I Amos ride on the Maoniuping, Lee and the peak was to sit ropeway up the mountain. Road is very muddy, but the ride up the mountain there is a lofty sentiments indeed, I am dressed head one night buy wool shawl, hands holding the reins, and consciously high-spirited, quite Touch of Zen style. On to the Maoniuping, the four of us to join wood-paved berm after the marching away to the Peak. Arrayed along the way there are many stalls selling Tibetan handicrafts, or snacks, such as the yak milk, yak meat and roasted potatoes and so on. Things Daoshi prosaic, attractive girls who were standing on the roadside Tibetan singing aloud, singing mildly high Shashi moving. Passing through the hillside and on the stalls, has been embarked on to the Peak, with the higher mountains, breathing more and more rapid. Lee has given me a ginseng tablet, taste very bitter, but through its effects, I ran up the hill one go, all the way ran to the hilltop, then suddenly dumbfounded.
Under the dark sky a bright line. I jump out of Plank Road, bolted forward, bright-line into a plane: It was a lake, the locals called it, "Jade Pool." According to legend, this is Queen Mother, or fairy-like wash basins, some people say the Naxi ancient times young men and women in order to resist their parents arranged the marriage, they both jump Lake sentimentalism here. Later, some people feel that this is not worth the sacrifice, he walked out of the Lugu Lake, they believe marriage should not have a fixed, depends on two people in love can be, so there will be a "walking marriage" system and caress family. But at this moment, I can not remember the legend of mad men Yuannv; this quiet mountain on the emergence of a calm lake and the lake as a mirror bits and pieces of yak grazing let me grabbing cardiac Shen Yao, suddenly disappeared. Slowly, my mind conjures up Chi Yu's an old songs "side of the lake": "Some people say / alpine lake on the / is lying on the earth's surface tear / Then say / My pillow River of Tears / is to hang in your the heart side of the lake / side of the lake ... ... "a scene that no longer can be described as other words. Moment, the surrounding mountains, clouds, lakes and pine trees have become so passionate. Lake lover's tears really do? The original love, you can also love being so beauty, so aesthetic, so ethereal purity and refinement, ah!
? Shangri-la Zhongdian Tiger Leaping Gorge to the day of the big rain, roads are very muddy difficult to use. But those who on the Shangri-La - the legendary "Xanadu," the yearning, we were still duty-bound to set out. 10:00 first of many Tiger Leaping Gorge. On both sides are marble mountains, scenic area is also from local materials, a narrow street for visitors they were all sitting on a bench made of marble, we are not even that luxury, but my mind was like to knock back a few rocks Chengdu resold. Because of the time, we have only to jump the next tiger, but the rumbling sound of the water has enough thrilling. Water potential is very dangerous! Stared at the pale yellow of the waters, you will find hard to move in the channeling wave, a wave broke, far, and cold-called a wave would hit the front of uproar blasting, the splash of a splash, Jiang surface holds up the Lao Gao Lao Gao of the mist. The sky in the rain, water waves at the foot of the embankment in the tireless efforts should smash into the mountains to block this avenue is also volume level. There was a moment I would like to jump into the water, and together they go to hit that high mountains, drifting along toward the distant, or in storming smash into molecules, atoms ... ... Milan Kundera for fear ? disease is high because people standing on tall buildings would be on the ground to attract, there is an impulse to want to jump off, it creates a sense of fear, in fact, of the waterside stand violent Pentium will also be attracted by the power of that endless, This forces people to shudder, but also awesome. Our fear often comes from the desire but not reach the helpless bar!
At noon we continue to proceed to Zhongdian, the rain is still the next. Master Wong has 20 years of driver to drive to and from the vicinity of tourist attractions in Lijiang experience, he confidently tells us, the day in July ninth day, it will be the next day of rain;, but will definitely be sunny the next day. After several hours of bumps into Zhongdian, we have a wide and straight onto the highway, suddenly there is a "vessel has passed thousand mountains" easy. Road on both sides are golden yellow and green woven fields, the yellow ones are barley, oats, green is. Dacheng the fields there are many wood shelves are used to drying of grain. Walking along the street, the most common view of the valley than in the embrace of a wilderness, Didi De trees, rivers and ground water levels in general, divided into several teams in the wilderness on a meandering flow; cattle, sheep, and horses in the original on the leisurely eating Grass, the former covered with yellow wildflowers on the ... ...
Afternoon we drove to the Songzanlinsi - Yunnan's largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, "Little Potala Palace," said. Its architectural style and is somewhat similar to the Potala Palace, is built on mountains, the high level has been leading to the main hall. I am not a believer, but entered the main hall, the kind of deep sense of religion, let me breath deeply moved. Hall hung with exquisite embroidery curtain, mantle, statues everywhere, monks were devout face and solemn expression of awe me. So, I also had a burning incense, praying silently: "Please let my father rest in peace rest in peace as soon as possible! Let me take heart from the pain bar!" Also thought of just lost his father, the dream often saw his shadow, Sometimes he told me that he did not leave but rather to a distant home, and sometimes they saw him jump off the cliffs, I cried to the choking - never really thought of heart pain, but this more than a month before I know the heartache taste! So I have come to Yunnan, and put himself immersed in the town, snow-capped mountains and grassland, began to learn to calm review of his own pain, once again aspire to their own future.
From Songzanlinsi out of the sky late, the more rain the next larger shoe almost all wet. The night we live in is known as "the plateau first soup" hot spring hotel, so that spring wash away the fatigue of the journey of the moisture and rain. Highlands Night cold pressing, though covered with a thick blanket, still frequently wake up cold. The morning, the valley wind whistled, I still shiver dressed in wool shawl - This regret it when I packed my things without a sweater just how lazy and stupid behavior.
This is the second day of Zhongdian, the weather turned sunny, we went sightseeing in the Bita Lake, and in accordance with La Prairie. Bita Lake is a plateau lake, located in the lush pine forest at the foot of the mountains, Plank Road are thick logs with Dacheng. And we go the same way along with a tour group, Lijiang ancient town on a map, Mr. selling denigrate them as "grass on the fly" - come and gone, nothing's worth nothing to play bad tourists. There are a number of "grass on the fly" (including a number of able-bodied men) actually fight back, holding the oxygen bag! Oh, where is the plateau of 4000 meters above sea level. The three of us proudly to the "Golden King" itself to these "grass on the fly" is called "distorted the battery." Who knows the way back, Lee also began to shortness of breath, pale, wielding all the way up the mountain, she complain incessantly. My Touch of Zen, when significant side style: hand-held cameras, is a scenic stupid madman, Shangcuanxiatiao right place to find the sun through the pine shoot抢拍was mottled barge under the shadow of plaque scenery. To see if they go farther, he strode to go to catch up also Mianbugaise heart does not skip; they had to heave a deep sigh: "No way, the Yunnan-Guizhou high a priori conditions of the original Duracell is good!"
Although the general view Bita Lake, but that is because rain water into a vast ocean of the ira prairie is amazing beauty. On horseback, a distance is a clear water reaching the sky, wave on the Han Yancui, approached, and surprisingly fleet of blue sky, white clouds surprisingly, water is also suffused with blue light. There are huts built in the water during the dry season, pavilion, Baita, low trees and wooden drying of grain is scattered. At this time the brilliant sunshine special, but according to La Prairie still seem extremely quiet, water out of fashion. Dismounted We climbed to the water's edge of the hill sat quietly on the slopes rocks everywhere, a group of white sheep, one say that people come, have upward retreat. We are contented watching the endless expanses of water, and never want to move. One can imagine, there is no rain flooded grassland when the sky must be Grass, flowers, such as oceans, streams slowly, cattle and sheep flocks, as well as riding a horse galloping in the Tibetan grasslands, rough voice echoed around. Here is the Shangri-La: calm water, quiet mountain, mountain sheep grazing a quiet, slowly flying birds in the water ... ... obviously there have been voices, but I find it particularly quiet. Shangri-la is that it is it?
Perhaps there is no real paradise in the world bar, in particular, tourism development to the place. What we see is very different, and our daily lives, see the scenery and people, we are tired of the Sound and the Fury accustomed to life, so eager to calm, yearning to "take the Chrysanthemum Tori, the leisurely to see the mountain," the tranquil, this can be called a "paradise" complex. However, we understand their own feelings, as the local people, how they view their own lives? They think they do live in paradise? The number of people to care? In many areas may now be eagerly looking forward to seize the opportunity to develop the tourism industry out of poverty, to develop, to change the present life. The tourists who are often self-righteous came, and shot a pass landscape, but also self-righteous way to go. Yes, tourism is a relaxation, a vacation, but it would be a opportunity to broaden their horizons. Broaden their horizons, in addition to see the great mountains and rivers all over to learn folk customs, it should really go to the local people who care about the survival of the state bar.
Epilogue After returning from Zhongdian, Lee and Feng went to Lugu Lake, and I lingered for a day in town, and then Road Kunming to visit a friend. Kunming City is not, but it is clean, the streets were not many, is a laid-back city. Just autumn, I spent three days there in the rain for two days, I once again was cold shiver. Kunming was indeed four seasons are like spring, a Yu-Cheng Dong ah! Back to Chengdu, but also saw the lid in general clouds, gray sky, as well as scorching of the sun, the hearts of even some stranger. Tourism is this: to leave a place, go to an unfamiliar environment, you should soon foreign land for home, you are back to square one. Everything seems no change, but seem to have changed, you feel a strange thing in my heart flowing, you miss the places visited, but you should also knows that he must return to return to. Since then, there is a longing heart, longing for the next trip, in a certain period of a day ... ...
Author: beyondwall
