Northwest Yunnan tour of the incomplete manual (in Summer)
Snow pig Renqing Hui had just returned from Yunnan, 15 days ran Lijiang, Diqing (Shangri-La, Deqin), Dali, Kunming, Guizhou, also went in front of Maling River rafting, felt Zhang relaxation, fun. The way we want to experience a variety of feelings about the experience and you have been or intend to go to the Mix to share, hoping to travel from a friend can get help or inspiration, find suitable games are played.
A line of chapter 15 days to talk about our itinerary bar. We are starting from Guangzhou 6.29 Guangzhou 7.13 back.
6.29 am 9:58 Guangzhou - Kunming railway.
There is a trip from Guangzhou to Kunming, Nanning-Kunming air-conditioned express line is to go through the post will go through Guangxi, Guizhou Xingyi (马岭河峡谷location), Yunnan Luoping (mu rape) and Shilin (which I do not say bar) and other tourist attractions, very suitable for walking and playing. 9:58 am sending this train, Kunming arrival time is 15:30 pm the next day. Because our two donkeys with July 1 in order to Kunming, so we intend to play one day off in Guizhou Xingyi, to the Maling River drift and then to Kunming and join them. 马岭河峡谷Earth Qiqianwannian Yanshan movement before the cracks opened a total length of 74.8 kilometers, to sew are 130 meters high, there are more than 100 waterfalls, known as "the most beautiful scar on the planet." Two floating line has been developed --- Middle Valley leisure rafting, from Ma Zhen to the canyon bridge, 11.8 kilometers long; stimulus type drift downstream to sew, from the canyon crossing the bridge to Zhao, long 22 kilometers. 98 years, had been held in international canoe drifting competition, by the National Sports Commission referred to as "China's first drift."
6.30 Maling River rafting, overnight Xingyi City.
Xingyi City, Guizhou northwest side, adjacent to Yunnan, Luo from the more than 1 hours before the train. Nanpanjiang, maling the river flows through here, Guizhou wine factory is here, still remember that "scenery out of wine," the ad bar is here any more. Xingyi city, Maling River Ma Zhen and middle reaches of the Star scenic basic triangular distribution, are both a few kilometers away.
9:00 am train arrived in Xingyi (time-ting the right bar), Ma Zhen drifting from the point of the railway station 4 km, we are carrying luggage, hit by a motorcycle converted 3 car, 10 yuan to Ma Zhen. To the drifting company's ticket so far today, we are told, there is no other guests to drift, nor has it received team orders, such as the two men had to pay a five-member charter costs - 650 yuan, we feel that is too expensive to require wait and see , conductor said yesterday, more than 200 drift, probably later today, there will be visitors bar. The staff politely asked us to sit among the rest, and brought us two cups of tea and drifting. Waited for half an hour, still not seen any other guests, was a little anxious. Would have to ask, say you want to drift on the pack of boats, 400 yuan is the rock bottom price. Come to think far behind, though very expensive (often drifting in 100 yuan / person or so), but it's no problem. We demand that the baggage car to the end of the exit, they agreed, this decision proved wise anomaly, or else the whole luggage was washed away. For the rain off the boat when the gloomy weather, my husband took off a lot of experience demonstrates good hiking shoes with plastic bags tied tightly enclosed boat and put on slippers. It was brought to us two thin coat to wear, supporting the Rotary has been fixed with rubber bands put on glasses, wrapped in, well, then get going. Zhu Shao light point, one leaf vessel downstream. I saw the cliff Jiajiang and Zhi, when Fei Liu Mashimo, this is my first time ever drifting, and I feel difficult to calm. We are all the way through the horse, rhinoceros, Tamron three urgent Beach, where the most dangerous Tamron. In welcoming skilled boatmen passed 10000 to avoid re-ship between the mountains, although the body is less wet and more dry, but the near misses, sir, that is not stimulating enough, the boat features a move swaying the body, boatman, agreeing completely, in the final of the Proton Longtan enable us to lead a handful of addiction. Now call fun, fleet in front of the emergence of a more deep gorges, well looked, group waterfall Dropping stirred mist obscured more than half of Canyon. Star boatmen say that it is scenic, but where the water is too rapid, may, at Gap pier dock, can not continue floated. The exit from the pier to the bridge is a mountain of stone steps, rafting companies in the export outlet has a life jacket, and our luggage did not that there are enthusiastic and responsible contact person to call to send packets, or about the entrance to the Star Valley Scenic Villa, see . 10 minutes walk to the Hill, see here for quiet, some buildings are being renovated, and the time before 12:30 noon, still early enough, gradually give up the idea at this accommodation. Waited for a while, and our luggage delivered, the end of the motorcycle frame, but also covered with plastic sheeting, moved to send luggage to stay together for dinner, was turned down. Responding to this place human good, simple and sincere, although the days Buzuo Mei, Xi Li rain is still great interest in order to candles for light, both Chile Dun candlelight lunch --- Guizhou cuisines Suantang Yu (fish famous Bala, local kinds, very tasty), fried pepper, shredded cabbage, a can of Coke, plus two rice, 60. Bi rice is 2 pm in preparation for scenic view of Center. Villa consent luggage deposit office. Scenic area there are two entrances, one in the upstream bridge (ie, the upstream floating completion point), a downstream Villa. Disembark after a fork in the road had just been through the scenic area can be from the Villa out, and now we go this way is anti-direction. Scenic length of 1.7 km, mainly landscapes are the Three Kingdoms period of Ancient Plank Road, Waterfall, travertine mural. This section of the road in three steps of a small waterfall Wu Buyi waterfall, walk through the meantime, pour you a Earned amused. As for the murals, alone, to imagine, compared with the heart is the. Has completed this road is already 16:30, and nearby 10000 peaks, Wan-feng Wu, Ying-chin's former residence, etc. spots, the column is not our goal. Back to the Hills took the bag, stopped on the road back to Pakistan, Xingyi City, 5 yuan / 2. To see the streets of urban taxis, see the public was in civilian clothes who put dishes hailing from across the hand, like most with the fitness. Asked a dozen here in the city are 3 yuan. We do as the Romans have a taxi to the sea of clouds and hotels, 56 RMB / standard room, can wash hot water algae, but also to borrow electric heaters to bake Shiyi shoes, nothing more. Local excelled Huajianggourou to eat dinner is a pot form, ingredients using mint leaves, and elsewhere, different. Our point is that dog meat broth, taste very good, 30 yuan / jin.
7.1 Xingyi 9:00 am - Kunming Train, 9:00 pm Kunming - Lijiang long-distance sleeper.
Xingyi city is about 17 km from the railway station, playing because they have to pay toll, take 30 yuan, too expensive, and Terminal - Station of the CMB is the time-fare --- 9AM ago, 3 yuan / person;, the 5 yuan / person; evening, 10 yuan / person. We ate early in the shop intestinal wang face, take the CMB to the train station, the day ticket sale at 8:10, to Kunming, hard-seat air-conditioned fare 46 RMB / person, vehicle quite empty, do not worry can not find a seat. To Kunming in the afternoon 15:31. Get off later, we went straight to the convergence place South Kiln Terminal (in the case at the station next to). Mix well see two of our appointment, we cheer heard, rushed to seize the time to buy tickets the night to the Office of Lijiang sleeper cars, 119 yuan / person. When buying tickets constantly Lake Zi asked us what we are not going to Lijiang, said that he could buy cheap tickets, we are totally unfamiliar, were not ignored. Till bought their tickets to the station yard to look at cars, Lake Zi said, is not the ride of his car? Was listening to the driver who had Paochang Tu said that these Lake Zi is no longer being deceptive, they vote because they themselves are the untold stories behind the driver, who money to the ticket office to buy, only buy a short distance, such as to buy Dali, Lijiang, he only votes, anyway, under long-haul trucks is not only on the half-way, drivers know what's what, so you sit way in Lijiang, while the difference between the passengers and drivers are sub - a. Kunming to Dali and Lijiang is not only so, in the northwest Yunnan tourist shuttle bus between the two places can do it, if the self-help can save a lot of travel, then silver. Bullish car, ready to deposit luggage, the driver said no-deposit, and put the car bar (until 8:40 p.m. start). One also, so placed a big bag, the back and small, to dinner. As the clock was 16:00, time too early, we went to Tai Guanlou first hit cars, tickets 10 yuan / person (no student discount Kunming within the park, followed by the scenic student ID may for saving us a huge amount of silver). Da Guanlou faces 500 years in Dianchi Lake, to 180 words of the first long joint famous for. Denglou overlooking, it could clean up our hearts. Just do not go to the lake by boat, lake, green, and even splashes of the waves is also a green, pollution, heavy ah. We took the speedboat Lake, (bargain to 20 yuan / person, from the foot of a return to the West Daguan Lou, about half an hour) a broad deep lake, not knowing then we just found out DH-hill overlooking the area of 340 square kilometers of Dianchi Lake, a small corner of the punched a turn. Swim park, we take the 52 bus to the West Gate Road, cross the bridge garden bridge brother Jiang Zemin's regime in the nearby rice noodle. 10 yuan a can on the lounge and watch dance performances, although here the soup is too thick, there is MSG suspects, but the environment I was not very elegant to say. Eat noodle Bong also a number of paper towels, tea, my evaluation of Kunming, the catering industry are increasingly high. Guangzhou peer from which to learn it. Wiped mouthful of shiny finish, and we walk to Green Lake. Green Lake Green Lake Valentine Lake, along the lake there are many fine pubs restaurants, not expensive at all (this is the Kunming approachable), take a look at a lot of people bring dogs to take strolls around, and we cried out in alarm as many species can do Dog Show . Kunming, summer evening breeze, weather pleasant, unwittingly walked night falls, we Yangshou strokes car, hit the back passenger terminal. Columbia is a good-hearted people, see our shuttles like to remind our attention to the safety of night-long-distance car with robbery. We get off thank him for reminding, that he wished a safe journey home and then we with uneasy feelings, alert eyes and weary eyelids, in the vast darkness of night towards the Lijiang.
7.2 arrived in the morning Lijiang, day trips, overnight in Lijiang night bus stop-go, we Shuishui wake up, finally and safely arrived in Lijiang bus terminal, the time in the morning 7AM. According to the ancient city of residential telephone line introduced Inn (Tel :0888-5120066) to find, and aunt, and soon her husband opened a car to meet us. His home in the ancient city of 51 Street Lane, sandwiches, quiet quiet, away from the Square Street, (the ancient city is not that far away from that is 5-10 minutes walk, so "stay away from," had become its merits) lintel letter to " plowing the fields at home sound, "because the age-old, and some writing has been vague, wooden door, a bilingual book," the ancient city of residence Inn old town folk house inn ", which Zhaizi啦one hundred years of history, have a lot to talk about the story , "Journal of Tourism and Culture," also contained an article said that this Zhaizi gateway to it. You enter the courtyard, see the full House orchids, graceful gesture, but still no flowers this time, the owner told us here, orchids, but smells good. I have heard that Portland will have to be opened in the deep valley fragrance, where able to open, it is gratifying. From the hospital right now turn the corner in front of a small courtyard is the backyard of the hospital in a pool, Pan raises goldfish, is a screen wall around the pool side, side, two rooms, as well as take one side of the flower is also filled with orchids. And the home is the Naxi, on the Naxi residential architectural features, you can talk about a lot of space on the back we once again return to Lijiang, the only time to listen to the owner 11 years, it will pick the room we are busy at this time is less than the tourist season , five rooms only one was occupied, we have asked for a working hospital upstairs 2, 20 yuan / bed. Bathroom in the back yard, solar hot water 24 hours a day. To do the laundry, with washing machine, 5 yuan / cylinder, not yourself, very easy. This point very important to note that when asked to find accommodation and related costs for this service. Finishing baggage to prepare the next step. Mr. sneak in, take advantage of our upstairs bathroom where I packed my queue empty when a person sitting in the backyard flower under the sun to enjoy the gentle morning breeze. Wash finished, we asked the night before, and aunt, Mr. Xuan Ke Naxi ancient music from the speaker (this point is very important), they asked her on behalf of the Mai Menpiao (35 yuan / person) and took a small Zangyi to the gas workers, and then Dashiqiao Duodao leisurely breakfast. Shops in a city within the colors next to one (in handicrafts, wood carvings, bell majority), to attract our eyes and feet, so we had to remind each other and then stroll back to buy. In addition, restaurants everywhere, mostly small in size, occupy a good position imkye decorated small fine, packed with all kinds of people of color, in English and Chinese to exchange their experience of the experience of feeling seen and heard on the street head of the philosophy ... ... As a result, You not help lamenting this is an international town. Pick a imkye table, point Lijiang specialties --- soy noodles, rice noodle casserole with Lijiang Baba and a two-acre land (corn kernels fried green beans), a total of 25. Meals do not need to be constantly asked car rental, there is need to negotiate, no hint of the smile, shake their heads, what they need, do not feel disturbed by. It was observed that the attitude of people here are mostly modest, not a friendship in the sale, it should not happen force purchases and sales of unhappy events. Eat rice, we have agreed upon the prices of Lijiang day tour packages, 70 yuan / day, with trunk of the leased vehicle (TJ7101), the driver named Yang (mobile 13,908,887,357), the Naxi people. Many nearby attractions in Lijiang city, but more dispersed, there are buses to the city Yunshan Ping, fares 18 yuan / person, but there is no public transport connections between sites, so chartered is the most economical time-saving option. Based on our own preferences and time has made a choice, first went to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, tickets 40 yuan + city construction cost 20 yuan / person, students half price ticket voucher (Graduate Certificate also enjoy the discount). Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is located 35 kilometers north city, the main scenic attractions such as the back of the printed ticket "includes Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Ganhaizi, baishuihe, Yunshan Ping, Maoniuping" (and here I want to praise Yunnan tickets, illustrations, printing, most of beautiful, both practical and collection commemorative value. Yulong Snow Mountain has the ticket count times.) Ganhaizi is the snow-capped mountains at the foot of the meadow, this season full of small yellow wildflowers, here and built a big rope on the Glacier Park Tickets 110 per / person. Is the furthest MAONIUPING attractions, so we opened the first car to Maoniuping. From the parking lot side of the road or a cable car ride up the option, riding 63 yuan / person, cable car 60 yuan / person, we have chosen horse (mule). Up the mountain takes about half an hour, they arrive at a Maoniuping. Under the mules along the paved in front of a wooden plank road while walking to a platform, where the best place for overlooking the snow-capped mountains. Looking around us see the cloud lock mountains, snow-capped mountains refused to reveal face, we can only imagine the altitude of 5,500 meters of the crystal grace. Wooden Plank Road we walked into the distance along the direction of snow-capped mountains, meadows of wild flowers on the hill and dale, open was very arrogant. See diagram, this nearby Tien Chi, Yao Chi, Snow Lake a few spots, but is not marked distance, Plank Road had not sign. Only one other group of Luo Fu continued to tell you that far-yet, and come to the stage, and riding it, 20 yuan to take you to the Snowflake Lake. Zaiqu Tianchi? Plus 20! We feel that here, somehow, even the Plank Road repair also was strange to run a lap around a hill and does not lead to any attractions. We took a disappointment down the mountain. Then went to baishuihe, on the front of Yunshan Ping, is a deep valley, water from the Yulong Snow Mountain of melt water, so it is clear, cold Lie. Here you can take a small rope on Yunshan Ping, fares 40 yuan / person. Because they have been to Maoniuping, Yun Shanping we have no up, and return the way it began to rain out the door Huyou scenic sun shine. Through Yufeng Temple, 10000 Camellia flowering period elapsed, the monastery is not worth a. Dinner in the outside Fanzhuang meals, five points, ham, chicken soup Ukraine, known from the Black Dragon fish, bacteria ? ? such as a large table food, drank wine and plum wine of papaya, 160 yuan, a luxury one, rewarded in the past rushing day, but also for tomorrow will begin the hard savings point of nutrition, we've made up their minds like to take this tour to eat around here, the food. After dinner at six, but the ancient music began at eight o'clock, too early to take advantage of the weather, we went to the wooden palace, (Tickets are 35 yuan / person, means a block, students half-price, same below). Lijiang, when Turkish chieftain by the emperor in the early Ming Cixing "wood", built toast House, Xu Xia-ke "the palace of Korea, to be with the king", the original building has been destroyed by war and the Cultural Revolution, we see the buildings is 96 years after the earthquake reconstruction. Palace base built on mountains, climb overlooking the whole city. Lijiang Old Town Museum, its implication as a cultural core, you need time to gradually come to understand. While we are still wandering wood House, Yang master his family into the hospital come to us because of the opening hours have passed, large door, and they specially come to lead us out from the side door. We see Young chef responsibilities seriously, the new car, the price is reasonable, decided to continue to pack his car to the lake (500 yuan, 3 days, cheap bar). An appointment tomorrow to pick Inn, for which they specifically identify with us back to residence doors, was very moved. Back to the Inn had been 7:30, and get on, and aunt bought us the tickets, had to leave, she advised the umbrella and umbrella Didao our hands, this move is full of the feeling of affection (strongly recommended to live family-style Inn!). Xuan Ke is an ancient music to listen to talk about interesting things, he himself is an ancient city landscape, strongly recommend everyone to buy a hand-drawn map of the city, 6 yuan / copies of a special mark above his home. A sudden heavy rain hit the finish at a time, give us the magic of projections and Aunt admiration everything together. Originally all the Ting Lei, but walking the streets in Lijiang Dazhao San unconsciously, or turned into a café. Yunnan, a small mill to a cup of coffee, cheese cake taste good at here, to see the rain outside the bursts to hit the red lanterns hanging from the eaves to be printed on yellow paper, hand-drawn map of Lijiang spread on the desktop point of view, the last sleepy , and he plans to return to the Inn to sleep, which in itself is the story of Lijiang bar.
7.3 Lijiang - Lugu Lake, overnight Rigby Island, 8 am starting to Lugu Lake, where they intend to play for three days. Lugu Lake is about 200 kilometers away from Lijiang (Lijiang, 112 km to the Ninglang, Ninglang to the Lugu Lake 82 km), located at the junction of Yunnan and Sichuan, altitude 2685 meters, the lake area is about 50 square kilometers, with an average water depth of 45 meters. Because Mosuo people (a branch of the Naxi) to retain the walking marriage customs, which were outside "the daughter of country." Lugu Lake tickets 38 yuan / person. The general bus from Lijiang to Lugu Lake to go 6 hours, Young Master is the first time to take this road, so we spent a little more than usual time, to 5 pm before our destination Rigby Island. Lugu Lake has lake road, which connects Lake Luohe village Rigby Island, mouth and other villages in the village. Among them, the village of accommodation Luohe the best conditions, and location of being a broad lake, but the color is no longer re-Moso tribe. Rigby Island is located on a peninsula north of the lake, the island had not been developed to retain a more primitive style. We are prepared to live in Young island main home in the forefront of the island, the guests an exclusive corner of the room is a row of bungalows. When we went to the head of one only at the East lived in Qinghai to retreat a lama, no others. Here the cost of room and board, 15 yuan / person / bed, dinner 10 yuan / person, breakfast 5 yuan / person, condition poor, there is no formal toilet, no running water. Lugu Lake, the water very clear, all the locals, including tourists, domestic water (including the brush face) are all in the lake directly to scoop, at least so far no problem. But here are very suspicious of health beds, I slept one night after the whole body plays a prurigo is estimated to be some kind of bites dry. To lay down their luggage, we braved the rain to board a small hill behind the house to enjoy the lakes and mountains, this time twilight Tetraena, enveloped in the Rain in the Mist of the lake appeared to be very quiet. We invite the island main sister, Mary Albi, 6:00 dinner, dinner to eat in hosts who looked the Huotang Bian. She made a table of vegetables, eggs, tomatoes, fried potatoes, silk, fried mushrooms, grinding taro, green peppers fried Zhu Biaorou. Zhu Biaorou Mosuo people is hospitality dish is bacon, hung in the fireplace on the long years smoked, and we eat that quite fragrant, and will not talk as difficult to swallow. There is another table to eat with the students look like tourists, they just arrived from Zhongdian over, claiming that there is nothing fun, the way rain, bad road to go, one asked if they only went to the Napa lake, and Bita the sea, are all lakes, Deqin a no go. It appears they are right here, very disappointed, so after dinner to transfer them to a more commercial fell into the water village, where the bar should be consumed in excess energy. Yeliangrushui, surrounded by dark, we have four in the dim light under the porch playing cards. Young chef dinner drink here in咣Dang wine (homemade corn liquor, free of charge, but it is strong), walked everywhere, from time to time over the report of satellite TV is very yellow, next door to the living Buddha in the seat like playing real-time horizons Let us secretly laugh.
7.4 morning, the lake at night when the companion case of landslides dawn Xiaoping, high fever, night slept, ground temperature 39.3 ℃, hastened to give her dose of two anti-fever drugs, cover quilt, advised her to drink plenty of water handling wipe their sweat, sleep on the sleep. Taking advantage of dawn we climbed the small hill to see Dawn under the lake, island main house dog dedicated to follow us. As soon as we go out, it followed, not noise is very well-behaved, he is a good dog. Then we went to the neighbors "Lack hotel" after the walking trails near the lake. Lack house two floors of a place to live than we seem to be clean and comfortable, with gravel paths bordered by a lake side of the puzzle, but also species of the willow, weeping willow Yiyi, the lake is clear and the lake shore, open sea of white cauliflower, breathtaking scenery. So, to choose to live in Rigby Island, then, here might be more appropriate, although Yang island main a very polite and good. 7:30 breakfast, baked bread, buttered tea, barley noodles, boiled potatoes. There is no noodles rice porridge, but it is their own kinds of potatoes, and fresh and full, quite good to eat, we'll take a few potatoes to Apin. Next, plan the three of us sat Zhu Caochuan Lake (40 yuan / person Rigby to the distress, if it is not the words of the lake island on the 30 yuan / person), Xiaoping Yang master's car sitting in the drowning villages and we are converging Then back to Lijiang rest. We returned to the room, drug has already played out the effect of Deng Xiaoping sweat out a fever after the withdrawal, and eat something with us but also by boat. 9:30 We sat Zhu Caochuan say goodbye to Young Island, the island main and Rigby embarked village fell into the water. There are several islands in the lake, we have on the locals of "Snake Island" tour, the island is very quiet, in the island's highest point overlooking Lake District, we see Rigby Island, in a far away, is a territory of Sichuan mouth clouded over the village. Planning to leave the island the ship fell into the water to go boating Mosuo pleasant girl singing love songs, singing as clear as water. 12:30 Here we are involved "Gorm Mountain Villa", which is a resort and health conditions are fairly good, scenery is not bad, faces a lake and neighbors, view open (where the lake than in Rigby open). Accommodation is not expensive, did not specifically ask, but here, the line price is 15 yuan / person, you can bathe. Fell into the sea is a tourist zone, complete living facilities clean, convenient, and Rigby, different characteristics, Feel preferences according to interests. Return the way, we are right in the observation deck overlooking the lake made the final, I think that this is the best from here to see a taste of its quiet, such as Shangri-la's incredible. Because Lugu Lake as a lake, but also a lack of overall co-ordination around the lakes and mountains, scenic areas within the natural landscape of human history no other than a single, near the water very clear to see only know a distance, then the mountain form of vegetation cover and lake with very general. So, is the best point of overlooking, it is recommended to come to the lake through the viewing platform overlooking must first look at the lake in this picture, from the best angle to enjoy the beautiful Lugu Lake.
12 o'clock we began to return. Go back to the way the rain had never stopped, opened three and a half hours later returned to Ninglang Xian city, we ate a delicious rice noodle casserole, resumed their progress. Out of town more and more bad road to go, there are several small landslides, fog also took the opportunity to run out of trouble. We began to worry about dinner and still not catch up in time to eat in Lijiang. Finally, we confirmed that the fear of being completely, away from the tree at the end of the village 5 kilometers, we encountered a large cave. Paragraphs of the road ahead was blocked sediment washed down the mountains, as well as vehicles trapped in the middle of a dilemma that way with two passengers can not be exchanged. We had also optimistic about the playing cards in the car, and later heard that bulldozers bad I do not know when to tune to a new, wilderness, hungry, not any cell phone signal, we decided to walk to the tree to discuss the end of a meal, contact Young Master family报平安, if necessary, spend the night at the end of the tree. Young chef is to remain in place, large luggage left in the car, and so on road leads to the base of the tree after the cellular phone. So, we left him chocolate and a bag of plums fill their stomachs with thirst, he again explained his family ties, they may contact the car to pick us first return to Lijiang. 19:00 is not yet dark, and we back the water, chocolate and a few necessities of life, bring flashlight Sheung. Other people on the wagon to follow suit, the way is not quite deserted. Walk about an hour, Tianquan dark, the rain began to become big, just see the front of a light. Came closer, is a stay at the hotel rooms, brightly lit inside voices, the original walk down from the hills who were all here. We decided this should first eat of the. Outside the room full of people, rain road black, continue to follow the insecurity, tonight I am afraid we can only appear on this before. There is still no mobile phone signal, the store not any phone, can not, and the outside world, Yang master's family must urgently bad. Side of the a la carte, while looking for folks to be two beds, see the whole store from top to bottom the child is too busy for our request was answered only a minute arrangements. We look at the situation grim, aiming out of a corner of an empty couch, and quickly occupied occupies a Zhuoyibandeng prepared to fight night tractor. Had just fastened our nest arranged neat and smooth comfortable, Hu Ting Huan-ming, outside speakers, the crowd unrest. We quickly ran out of a view, a local known as the "boss" in front of the loader rumbled open, blocked traffic in single file followed. Guwahati, road leads to the! Suddenly the whole restaurant was filled with festive and cheerful like, you can go home啦. Young Master is really when we see into and shops, there are the long-awaited reunion feel, they are actually separated for two hours. We rushed him to a bowl of Egg Fried Rice, the account knot out (50, 4 dishes plus a bottle of Dali beer, stores, and there is no looting), continued on our way. After a tree at the end of us encounter two major landslides, clear the roads and spent more than three hours, the evening, we are masters Yang car before. The rainy season in Yunnan, so we must be psychologically prepared to Lugu Lake, where the road due to geological reasons, the rain easily congested Although there is no danger, but it will delay the time.
7.5 Lijiang, break 4:00 am, after untold hardships finally returned to Lijiang. Sweet dreams the ancient city is still asleep. We knock on the door several Inn, no one should be, go to the terminal intends to wait for dawn. Who knows even the bus terminal is also the door closed, no way, see the street there are a few eateries open the door Showmanship, and we unloaded luggage, in this settled. Had to pay the fare, we are in charge of Master Yang expressed his gratitude, he opened the night on the car is still pulling everywhere we turn, there is no Nanse, we are very moving. Asked for a mung bean porridge, rice noodle casserole for breakfast, we Sibuzhiwei just pass the time. It was only 6:30 and gave her a taxi to the city, walking in the ancient city are familiar with streaky stone pavement, quiet had only heard his footsteps, most people have not got up, and we can not help but sigh relaxed their lives. To Dashiqiao Inn (of course, on啦stone bridge, where you can listen to sound sleep Well water in Lijiang), actually closed the door, knock on the door, but fortunately, it was the door is the earliest date the attendant (at that time had been almost 7:00 a). However, she did not tell us that the empty room. Are contemplating to find another residence, it was check-out, on the second floor & Poor's, the 30 yuan / bed, and immediately to the next. At the same time that heavy rain last night, flying Lijiang flight cancellations, travel agents booking empty, today still do not know whether or not to. Pre-emptive, and we hastened to again one of the booking to be over, smaller rooms, double rooms, a large bed, 50 yuan / rooms. Settled after we took turns taking a bath, big stone Inn is also the residential areas, courtyards, there are nine rooms, the west room on the water's edge, especially on the first floor of the room, there is a waterfront balcony, sitting there, not only can be seen Dashiqiao landscape, their people will also become a landscape, but there is only one public toilet and bathroom. A very good waiter, opened a standard room vacant Let us use the bathroom. And employers are more terrifying. There are no washing machines, to provide laundry services, 3-5 yuan / piece, giant expensive! We got near the Zang Yi International Youth Hostel, where there is self-service laundry, 8 yuan / time. We wash my bath consistent sleep until 14 o'clock to eat lunch slowly, this time we, like most of the people of Lijiang leisurely walking hurriedly hurry to get somewhere, rather than a traveler. Lunch point is the Lijiang dishes --- m enema, blowing the liver, chicken bean jelly beans, mushroom ? ?, coupled with a pull-city, sea shell fish, crucian carp, 126 yuan. Frankly speaking, the taste of food in Lijiang and the price is really no surprise that wins in the environment is comfortable first-class ambience. After dinner we were browsing through Square Street, Guangyi Street, will enter every shop, do not buy Well also take a look. While the desire to try to control the shopping, but when we reached the eternal hands still raised floor, a variety of Dongba artefacts and tea (tea leaves here, sweet sweet taste, well drink). Vancomycin floor, in order to Lijiang City, the high ground and take a overlooking snow-capped mountains, overlooking the ancient city. The five-storey, wooden structures known as China's first floor. Tickets are 15 yuan, visitors rarely surrounded by lush forest has much rustic charm. Dengloushiyou rain, we carry high quality goods with fun - playing cards, upstairs in the eternal war, until meatballs are cooked, it was great! There is also a city hospital Jiaoren and big houses, is the consort prince Chieftain House, the alleged TV series "Money King" In this film, there is a full-time instructors introduced the Naxi courtyard architectural features at a cost you have in the ancient city of protection fees (to the Yulong When snow-capped mountains to) be paid, and in addition there will also ask you to listen to the Tibetan medicine and pharmacology of the mystery and magic, a famous Tibetan medicine free medical consultation, As you pay any attention to Tibetan medicine here is decided on by you. Then went to sanyanjing, drinking well water a Lijiang. Turning turning the sky was dark unconsciously, we are not browsing enough, but the stomach began to raise a protest. Eat Western food bar, the streets of Lijiang, half foreigners, Western easy to get. Xinhua street is the city a great place to eat Western food, restaurants and bars all along the river, weeping willows beside a slide arrayed rattan tables and chairs, covered with a colored tie-dyed cloth, and some even casually put a bottle of flowers, where some are stout Beautiful flowers ah. Sitting under a tree, lanterns reveals a warm candle, a lamp Qifu rains the river Wishing Lotus lamp, showing each person's face slightly tipsy (which is intoxicated with the drunk, not drunk alcohol, drunk), I can not help but stupid, and as if involuntarily melted, and just want to stay in time, I can solidification in this space. Here are the Western, the price is not expensive, a person to a mere 20 eat well, and strongly recommended.
7.6 Lijiang - Tiger Leaping Gorge - Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot baishuitai today, and 7 o'clock the morning together, Lijiang intermittent rain, the road washed shiny stone, the Inn next to the stream of water would have been especially Great. Packing to leave the inn, the first to find a snack bar for breakfast (4 yuan / person), and specifically bought a 10 boiled eggs, eight corner one, climbing to eat fine.
Out of the ancient city north gate (large water tankers), Office of appointment of the master text of Zhongdian drivers and Jane have been in the parking lot waiting for us. Here to mention that the road from time than Zhongdian Lijiang, poor road conditions, if the car rental if the driver is important, a good driver allows you to save time and be assured that it is not looking at the price. His car is light blue Jetta, car is not new, but maintained well, a strong horsepower, the most important thing is, and master technology, well, sitting in his car felt very stable and will not be dangling, and the Jetta than Xiali spacious rear seat three individuals will not be crowded. We rent and master's car four days, day 400. General price is OK Lijiang - Zhongdian (including Tiger Leaping Gorge, Zhongdian baishuitai and around) a day, 300 yuan to 400 yuan per day Deqin. We have an old brain thrown into the trunk luggage (car rental there is this good), playing straight horse troops on Tiger Leaping Gorge.
Here we first set foot plan.
Tiger Leaping Gorge section of the Yangtze River upper reaches of the Jinsha River, the middle and lower sub-three paragraphs. Lijiang state and Diqing (from which has been renamed Shangri-La County, Zhongdian County, Deqin County and the composition of Weixi County) on the two sides in the River to River as the boundary state of the Yulong Snow Mountain in Lijiang, Haba Snow Mountain in the Diqing , sub-Zhi canyons on both sides, Jiajiang relative. Tiger jumped on the upper reaches there is Tiger Leaping Gorge, that bridge the town, in the Diqing side belongs to Zhongdian, the tiger jumped on the tiger jumped on stone and tour called Tour Tiger Leaping Gorge is also refers to here; the middle of The tiger jumped in there Hetaoyuan town, also Zhongdian side, the famous summer spring, mountain white-faced hotel is here. Downstream is a large town in Lijiang there. In Zhongdian Tiger Leaping Gorge on this side there runs through the whole valley of the road (only this year) but there is now only go in Lijiang jumped on the tiger, and the tiger jumped from the Gap to the previous section of stone which is a new way, only be able to walk or ride horse, vehicles can not pass. Therefore, if only want to see tiger jumped stone, the two sides from Zhongdian to Lijiang, or can be, but would like to walk in the tiger jumping, Haba paths and other places, it is always on the side of Zhongdian.
Trekking Tiger Leaping Gorge in general there are two traditional routes, one starting from the big a first side of the transition to Zhongdian, and then against the river along the highway up to the Hetaoyuan town, and then go to the riverside under the mountain, You thin strip of sky, sky full of stars such as the tiger jumped the landscape and continue to go up in the Chang Shan teacher's house, Tian's inn (ah? you heard of these places, then you walk Tiger Leaping Gorge呀.) Branch line back roads ，再继续爬山到Halfway旅店，走哈巴小路，最后从上虎跳下到公路。另一条是从桥头出发顺流徒步，路线与上一条正好相反。若觉得我说得不够清楚，在丽江大大小小的餐馆酒吧里都可以索要免费的徒步虎跳峡手绘地图，先要一份研究研究就是了，可惜我们忘了拿，不能扫描出来供大家参考。由于现在已经有了贯通全峡谷的公路，有白水台到桥头往返的班车，所以如何安排徒步行程比以前灵活多了。我们的计划是先游览上虎跳，然后乘车到张老师家，从那里下去游中虎跳，从核桃园上来，继续乘车到白水台。
言归正传，从丽江到桥头的路基本都比较好，约2.5小时车程。丽江与中甸之间横跨金沙江现在有2条公路桥--松园桥和继红桥，继红桥旁边还有一条叫伏龙桥的老桥，传说是贺龙元帅的红二方面军当年长征经过之地，现在已不用了。从继红桥渡过金沙江，路况就差了很多。到桥头镇后有两条路，一条直接去中甸，一条去虎跳峡，翻越哈巴雪山到白水台，兜个大圈到中甸，但景点都在这条路上，我们走的就是这条路。
过了桥头就是虎跳峡的收费处，30元/人，学生半价（又省60元，嘻嘻）。一路到上虎跳的停车场，从停车场下去就是虎跳石了。这里现在已经砌了水泥台阶，也就几百级的样子，上下一趟半小时足矣。不过要小心这里的轿夫，他们经常在山路上横冲直撞，粗鲁得很。我们下到虎跳石处，因为是雨季，江水汹涌澎湃，被两边的峡壁紧紧锁住，只能暴怒地冲击着江心的礁石，荡起阵阵水雾，并发出隆隆巨响，蔚为壮观。
从下面上来回到停车场，再驱车到中虎跳，已是中午12点。张老师家就在公路旁，在这里找了张老师的堂兄做向导，和师傅的车就到核桃园那边等我们。由于中虎跳实际上并没有公家修建的旅游道路，山路都是当地的几家人自己分段开出来的，要收一点费用。路不好走，向导是必要的，向导费包括几个点的过路费10元/人，向导还会帮忙背行李，绝对是合理的收费。
这一段是真正的山路，有点艰苦，但下到江边，景色实在美。一边是一条水量充沛的溪流从山上飞流而下，山脚下是几丛翠竹，对面是赭红黛青的峭壁，还有一条小吊桥凌空横跨在溪流上。中虎跳江水的气势与上虎跳相比不遑多让，江边景致则更胜一筹，而且可以跳到深入江中的礁石上照相，这些也是上虎跳不及之处。中虎跳有人家在此开的茶亭，光留言簿就几大本。我们吃自带的干粮，休息了一阵之后，继续向一线天进发。
这里好些地方其实是没有路的，路是相当于在岩石山壁开一条槽形成的。特别是一线天那里有个地方是一个开阔的斜坡，山上会时不时有飞石掉下来，注意是“飞石”，就是说石头不单会沿山体滚落，而且会凌空砸下来，我们经过的时候就不断有石头飞下来，我们就象当年八路军过日寇封锁线那样，得在向导指挥下，一个接一个，瞅准机会飞奔过去，十分刺激好玩。所以这一段不是览胜，而是在探险。这也是只游上虎跳的人不能领略的虎跳峡的另一面。
过了一线天，路就好走了，基本上是一些当地人牧羊的山坡。看近处恬静吃草的羊群，脚下汹涌的金沙江顺着峭壁一路奔腾到远处的峡谷出口，而峡口处已经展现了一片湛蓝的天空，又是另一种迷人景象。
哼着歌一路走，路边开始有些包谷地，最后走进一片核桃树林--核桃园到了。穿过树林，大家一声欢呼，公路就在眼前，和师傅的车就停在一棵大核桃树的树荫下等我们。随身带的水喝完了，我们到山白脸旅馆的小卖部去买水，老板娘果然热情和善，东西也不贵，名不虚传。休息了一会儿，又和向导合影留念，我们的虎跳峡徒步胜利结束，中虎跳徒步总共走了四个多小时，从我个人观点来说，顺流徒步比较好走，因为这样难走的路基本都是下山，最后向上爬时路又比较平缓。另一个感受就是游虎跳峡一定要来中虎跳，才能领略虎跳峡的美。
16:30，我们坐车从核桃园启程向去白水台。车行不久，就经过下虎跳，见到有名的下虎跳景观--滑石板。这里是页岩构造，滑石板其实就是一大片平滑裸露的页岩岩体，一直向下伸入江中。滑石板的对面就是大具渡口，从公路上可以清楚地看到，徒步下虎跳就是要从大具那一边走“之”字形的羊肠小路下到江边，过渡后又再爬上这边的公路，周围其实并没有很多风景。我觉得除非是对步行特别痴迷，否则徒步这一段实在没必要。如果有这样的时间和体力，不如到碧塔海和硕都湖去徒步环湖栈道。
车出了虎跳峡，就开始翻越哈巴雪山。这里的路现在通车已经没有问题了，虽然路况不算很好，但反正我们一路也没有被堵。路上经过几个看哈巴雪山的最佳观景点（云南旅游就有这个优点，好的观景点都设立了专门的指示牌）。可惜由于是雨季，云雾使我们无缘领略哈巴雪山的真容，成为我们这次云南游唯一经过而又没见过的雪山。
从虎跳峡到白水台要走三个半小时，幸好高原上天黑得晚，晚上20点我们到白水台时天还没有完全暗下来。白水台景区的门口就在公路边，景区周围有些店铺、饭店和旅店。我们在一家叫“逍遥饭店”的地方住下，20元/床，床铺不算干净，不能洗澡，将就吧。晚饭也在这里解决了。因为考虑到今天挺辛苦的，晚上要补充体力，所以晚饭专门要了一个炖土鸡，味道很好，不过忘了和老板娘讲价，被她宰了一刀，80块钱一只。其它菜价钱不贵，菌炒肉15元/份，菜的味道做得都不错。这里的饭桌都是直接取大树桩的一截来用，有天然野趣。晚上没电，不过旅店蜡烛免费不限量供应，在烛光下狼吞虎咽，有趣。吃完饭老板殷勤地给我们备好茶水，我们点着蜡烛，在白水台的雨声里打牌。周围虽然漆黑一片，但空气凉爽自然，大家打打闹闹，诚乐事也。
7．7 游白水台，碧塔海，硕都湖，夜宿香格里拉县晨起，有雾。白水台的售票处未有人，我们沿着楼梯进入景区。沿路铺了木栈道，我们慢慢地走了大约25分钟，到了。层层叠叠的钙华池，波光闪烁，果然名不虚传，虽然大片池水已干涸，但可以想象盛时一定美不胜收。这里的景色据说和四川黄龙有相似处，但池子的形态多样性是黄龙所没有的。可惜我们准备拍照时雾越来越浓，雨也渐渐大起来，更让人哭笑不得的是售票处一小工冒着雨喘着气以千里追凶之气势从山脚跑上山腰来追讨门票，我们并无逃票之心，此处只有一个出入口，出去补票就是。看他又是汗又是雨的，真不知该不该可怜他。门票30元/人，照例学生半票。同行者自我安慰称之·白水仙雾雨中游·。下山时一路有朝圣的老者和我们点头示意，说“你们真早啊”。据当地人称7月雨季刚开始，等到9月水量最充沛，这里的池子最美了。回到饭店，我们请老板下了面条，煮了稀饭做早餐，结帐居然要60元，好贵，没法，吃都吃了，于是解嘲般和他的”大砧板”合影留念，这是一张饭桌，状如砧板，正好比喻我们的处境。带着遗憾带着憧憬我们离开白水台到碧塔海， 这一段落路面相当好，铺了柏油，但拐弯多，所以有很多人在这一段晕车，我们就看见对面开来的一辆车里坐的一车乘客对着塑料袋吐个不亦乐乎。中午12点钟到达碧塔海售票处，全票30元/人。从售票处到停车场开车还要十几分钟。碧塔乃纳西语意栎树成毡的地方，这里海拔约3539米，四五月时可见“老熊捞鱼”“杜鹃醉鱼”等奇观。下车时雨小了，从停车场到海子边要穿越2公里长的成片的原始森林，森林中修有专供步行的木栈道。我以为这一段景色最美，空气当然也是没说的。树干笔直的松树上挂满松萝，各色野花盛开，其中有些品种是兰草唐昌蒲一类，摇曳幽雅，风姿可人。走在其间只希望这样的路永远没有尽头。走着走着，雨停了，甚至还露出几缕阳光，想到这个时候的湖的美丽，我们加快了步伐。看到了，一面湖水，是躺在地球表面的一滴眼泪，我唱着这首歌，走近它。湖面据说有150公顷，我们通常看到的只是它的四分之一，坐船游湖可饱览全湖。我们没有坐游船，在码头开了个小小的野餐吃干粮。这里的藏民天生一副好歌喉，不经意放歌就能让你赞叹歌声如此悠扬嘹亮，就连马队里也是卧虎藏龙。景区里有马道，为了体验另一条路上的风景，我们回程骑马，费用单程25元/人。如果你有的是时间我建议来回都走木栈道，因为马道的景色差远了。我们运气不错，雨只在我们到达湖边的时候歇了一会，回程时又下起来了。
离开碧塔海我们前往硕都湖，这是另一个高原湖泊，面积15平方公里，两者相距不远，车程一小时。和师傅告诉我们硕都湖一带是当地人周末野餐度假胜地。售票处到湖滨步行5分钟(这里门票15元/人)，雨下得大了，我们在湖边驿站避雨，网上有推荐这里的烤鲤鱼，于是要了一份，2斤重，果然味道鲜美。有兴趣的还可以租用工具自己烤，15元/斤。环顾四周，墙上挂了几幅《文成公主》剧照，这里是拍摄外景地。躲雨的人很多，其中有一群文质彬彬的老者，看样子经过长途跋涉，原来他们是考察三江并流景区申报世界自然遗产的专家， 路上走了四天，骑马翻山，穿过原始森林，从四川来到云南。我们报以敬佩的目光。等了约半小时，雨小了，我们离开驿站沿湖漫步，这里的湖面比碧塔海开阔，据说秋天层林尽染，景色最美。对比碧塔海和硕都湖，我认为两者春兰秋菊各擅胜场，两个湖都值得花时间欣赏。硕都湖距香格里拉县城30公里(今年五月中甸改名为香格里拉)，晚上我们经和师傅推荐住电信公寓，80元/标间。哇，这里简直正点得要命，我们历数三大优点:第一，地理位置优越，地处长征路旺地，邻近客运站，县城两大商厦出入方便购物悠闲。第二，设施齐全，房间配有中央恒温!!!双层玻璃窗，TCL彩电，安吉尔饮水机，按摩喷头沐浴板!!!!再加上落成使用才两年，物件都很新，简直把我们美死了，一进房间就不停地惊叹，哇，有按摩浴喔，有中央空调喔。第三当然是价廉物美，物超所值啦。晚上，我们的同伴临时接到单位通知要在10号赶回广州，计划要作调整，我们在德钦只能呆两天，后天上完冰川后赶回来他们坐晚上8点回昆明的夜班卧铺车，15个小时到昆明正好可以赶下午班机飞回广州，我们则第二天坐车回丽江，之后再去大理。晚饭在长征路上一家饭馆吃，四菜一汤，70元，然后回旅馆美美地睡去。
7.8 香格里拉-明永村，夜宿明永村早上先到客运站买好到昆明及丽江的车票，票价分别为142和27.5元。在客运站旁吃碗米线。 8:45AM我们向德钦出发。车一出县城，和师傅就指给我们看了松赞林寺和纳帕海（依拉草原），这两处离县城很近，有公交车前往，车资2元。纳帕海是个季节性湖泊，其实就是一大片草原，雨季形成滩涂就有了湖，可远观，可骑马。看到香格里拉的草甸上恣意开放的野花，我忽然明白为什么叫七彩云南。德钦县城距离香格里拉县186公里，再到明永村40公里，这一路都在修，非常难走。大约11:45到金沙江边的奔子栏镇，一般到德钦中午都会在此休息用午饭。我们点了40元/斤的江鱼做汤(这里吃江鱼是比较便宜的) ，还有四个菜，110元，味道挺好。吃完饭在旁边的农贸市场买了个小西瓜， 和师傅说这里的西瓜好吃。看它小小一个居然有6斤，我想应该很甜。过了奔子栏就开始翻越白芒雪山了，先是经过藏传佛教有名的东竹林寺，再翻过海拔4500米的白芒雪山垭口，一路继续走了三个多小时，下午4点多我们到了梅里雪山的第一个观景台，此时山岚聚散不定，雪山在我们期盼的目光下若隐若现，在等待的过程中我们把在奔子栏买的瓜吃了，果然非常清甜，味道纯正。天色渐渐暗了，如果今晚不下雨，明天我们就可以见到梅里雪山。为此我们发大念力，祈祷明天的好运。车子一路行驶，穿过德钦县城后经过飞来寺观景台，这里是远眺梅里雪山的最佳点，但我们仍然没看到卡瓦格博峰著名的金字塔形山峰。路上还跨过澜沧江，这是我第一次见到这条著名的河流，红色的河水奔流不息，先生赞叹它是条有血性的河。明永村就在江边，晚上7:15我们终于到明永村。这里有并排的几家旅店，价格服务其实是差不多的，不用怎么挑。我们住的叫“明永藏家风情园”，有两层楼，一楼20元/床，二楼稍贵。现在还没有热水供应洗澡，但看到已经在拉水管，房顶也安装了太阳能热水器，要不了多久，也许你来的时候可以洗上热水澡了。让我们感到惊喜的是它的餐厅临着小溪，溪水是消融的冰雪汇集而成，水流湍急，在水边吃饭别有风味，如果逢月朗星稀，怕不要感叹这良辰美景，人生的乐事？郑重推荐这里做的牦牛干巴，非常好吃。今天出发前每个人都吃了红景天，所以状态不错，即使翻4500米的白茫雪山也没有出现高原反应。这里气温较低，不过有件厚一点的外套也够了。晚上我们枕着溪流入眠。
7.9 观明永冰川，夜宿香格里拉昨晚下了一夜的雨，今早雨停了，雾还没散去。我们一大清早就起床准备上冰川。明永冰川位于梅里雪山主峰卡格博脚下，是当今陆地上海拔最低纬度最低的现代冰川，全长11.7公里。骑马上冰川太子庙来回80元/人，需时4小时。若去莲花庙的话加35元。上山的路不难走，只是需要体力，体力充沛者可考虑步行。由于知道马夫平时8点才会出来，我们昨天和旅店老板商量想早点出发，他说最早就7点，估计时间足够，于是由他请管理处的人帮忙，管理处的人也很爽快地答应为我们联系。 7:15我们到售票处，管理处的人很抱歉地说已经催了几回，马夫们现在才来。好在都是村里的，一会儿就来了。门票60元/人，学生半价。拿着马号各自上马，这的马个头高大，坐着特威风， 正顾盼间发现只剩先生一人立地踌躇，无人过问，发问无人应答。正在疑惑，一位胖胖的藏族妇女拉着一匹小马兴冲冲小跑而来，众人指其谓“上马”。上马出发，才没走几步，就要换马，那小马根本驮不住先生，我们大笑，明白刚才众人皆不愿带较重的游客。我们三匹高头大马健步如飞，小马换了身轻如燕的小平，仍走得歪歪扭扭，最后我们不忍心，干脆一人走路，让那匹小马歇口气。 9:00到太子庙，这里修了凌空的栈道，方便游人近观冰川，。我们经马夫指路，走岔道去触摸了冰川（路难行，有点危险，来回需半小时）。我们赞叹晶莹剔透的冰川，赞叹大自然的不可思议。从太子庙往上走是莲花庙，为观卡格博峰的最佳位置。昨晚下了一夜的雨，雾气很大，我们没有奢望可以看到雪山，就在冰川旁的栈道上拍照留念。 10:30原路返回。藏族妇女已经另外拉来一匹马，下山很快，40分钟就下到山脚。吃过午饭，11:45我们回程，天渐渐放晴，和师傅说19:00可以回到香格里拉县城。一路走，天气越来越好，居然露出蓝天，蓝得是那么纯净透明，那么可爱，这是著名的云南的蓝天和白云呀。多得这好天气，我们终于看到了梅里雪山和白茫雪山，而明永冰川远观益见雄伟，回想刚才不过我们只不过是在它的脚趾头顶礼膜拜。快到纳帕海时，我们见到一条硕大的彩虹横跨草甸，是一条接近尾声的虹，我们在山坳转了几圈再出去时它消失了。一路的好心情在快到中甸时被冲淡了，和师傅告诉我们，虎跳峡镇一段路严重塌方(那一段是从中甸南下必经之地，当然到虎跳峡镇还有新开通的公路，就是我们来时走的，但路远且险，不足取)，这几天都无法通车，今晚的夜班车取消了。机场加飞了几个航班，但恐怕票也紧张。回到县城正好19:10，民航售票处关门了，询问客运站只说明天早上会加发往各地的班车，到断路的一段自己步行过对头凭票搭同等班车。到底退不退掉手头的车票，要不要向单位告假，正举棋不定，和师傅提出可以帮忙找他的大嫂想想办法买明天飞昆明的机票，她在航站工作，也许能加座。我们付过四天的车费，对他的精湛技术再次表示了感谢，挥手告别。刚回到房间10分钟，同伴就接到和师傅的电话，说立刻下楼去买票。再过十分钟就见到同伴乐呵呵拿着两张机票回来，一脸感动地说和师傅的姐姐正好在观光饭店陪领导吃完晚饭，一听这事，立刻就让和师傅来找他，带他去买票。问题解决了，我们一起去客运站把去昆明的车票退掉，然后到武警路吃口袋鸡。口袋鸡的做法是把一只鸡塞到猪肚里，配以党参，沙参， 杞子，莲子，红枣等八种药材熬汤，味道极鲜美。口袋鸡在这里是作为火锅的汤底。武警路上有好几家馆子以此为招牌，我们吃的一家叫“邛崃川味饭庄”，120元一锅， 讲价后送青菜。我们放开肚皮，喝了无数碗汤，可惜肚子容量有限。青菜只吃了两种，白菜和豆苗，特别嫩，真想把桌上的汤啊菜啊都装到肚皮里。但最后只能望汤兴叹。我们吃的时候已经很晚了，整个馆子只有我们这一桌，难得服务员殷勤招待，送水加汤，一再说“慢用”，最后还送一碟店里特色点心窝窝头，美味加美意，我们吃得酣畅淋漓，快意人生。今晚只用两个字来形容，感动。
7.10 香格里拉-丽江，夜宿丽江一清早我们两人就起床去客运站坐7:10的班车，我们的两个同伴是11:00的飞机，这个时候还在梦中呢。昨晚已经道过别，交换了托带的行李，今天各自上路。到客运站人真多，因为有昨天滞留的部分旅客，所以班次有些混乱，反正都买了票，大家都到同一个地方就得下车换乘，所以有车就上，客满即开。 7:30我们离开香格里拉，9:00我们的车被拦在一桥头，说前头塌方段施工，下午1:30放行才放行。百无聊赖地等，我们开始怀念四个人的日子，起码可以打拖拉机打发时间。好不容易等到1:30，车继续开了大约20分钟，下车，翻越一段山路。这一路挤满过路旅客，人人都拿着几件行李，路窄难走，要抓着路边的灌木树枝来稳定步伐，整个象逃难的队伍。走完这段路花了30分钟，下到公路，我们象逃亡一样只求快快离开，手里那两张还有用的车票想都不想，看到一辆回丽江的中巴，叫价20元/人，我们毫不犹豫就上车。司机也很能理解我们的心情，一路狂奔，两个小时多一点回到丽江。重新走进古城民居客栈那个耕读家声的院子，我们就象回到家一样。这次和家院子几乎住满了，有来自安徽的独行女孩，有放假回家的广西女学生，还有个外国姑娘，祝这些不知疲惫的旅行者好运吧，而我们要做的只是洗尽尘土，在窗前读一篇关于和家花园的文章，在一次次恍然大悟中领悟院子的玄机，比如四合五天井的结构，正中天井的圆石，变体寿字，四蝙蝠图案所蕴藏的圆满、福寿的美好意味，用暗八仙手法砌的墙体石脚。一个院子有一串故事。香格里拉，丽江，一个绚丽多姿一个柔媚文静，它们有自己的特质，不可被别人替代，也不可能互相替代。晚上我们在东大街的”丽江驴窝”吃，这里的菜价钱便宜份量足，味道也不错。在丽江吃了几顿，数这里最好吃。老实说，古城里吃的环境和服务没得说，味道和价钱就很一般。饭后疯狂购物：朋友委托的藏药、兴义街的木刻（可惜钱少买不起“啊东”的）、新华街的披肩桌布、一面湖水的手工台灯和T恤（会掉色，小心）......
7.11 丽江-大理，游大理古城，苍山玉带云径，夜大理-昆明列车早上8:20AM丽江客运站乘开往大理的高速快车，票价50.5元，里程203公里。下关风上关花苍山雪洱海月，这是千古传唱的大理风花雪月，勾动过多少人的情思，存在于多少人的心里，仿佛一个永恒的召唤，你不由自主就会被吸引来到这里。当车窗外出现一大片湖面，你知道那就是洱海了，而和它相望的就是苍山。 11:40车子到达下关”大理汽车客运站”(注意，下关有四五个客运站，名字相近，需仔细区别)。我们问清往昆明的车次很多，最晚一班车是23:00，看来时间充裕。把大件行李寄存在车站，3元/件，在门口乘4路公共汽车往古城，此线路较长，故票价1.2元/人次，其余市内公交票价0.5元/人次。大理古城和丽江比，又是一番景象。白族民居的浅灰色照壁前一律开着巨大的鲜花，如月季、玫瑰等，颇有特色。在古城南门下车，走进去，这里有点象一个步行街区。商店里多以出售大理石制品，扎染布为主。这里是扎染的产地，价钱比丽江便宜了一大截，我们这才感到丽江有些东西的物价还是挺贵的，难怪有网友称在丽江购物，砍去开价的2/3才考虑。这里也有很多别致的酒吧餐厅民居客栈，尤以洋人街为多，风格类似丽江，食物比丽江好吃多了。我们在洋人街一小店吃砂锅米线，3元，还有免费泡菜自己取食。古城人民路上各家银行集中，我们用从广州带来的建行储蓄卡提款，感到非常方便。在古城有很多土导游向我们兜售一日游，我们只想去苍山。上苍山一般要乘索道上到半山腰，然后再步行到景点。索道有两条，一为感通索道(大索道)，往返80元，可打折至60元，从此上山到清碧溪，七龙女池等主要景点很近，另一为苍山索道(小索道)，往返35元，没折扣。我们只打算走走玉带云径，享受山中清静，就跟导游买了小索道往返票，她带我们到古城北门找了驾马车送我们到索道口。马车颠颠地穿过三月街歌市，歌会时这里人山人海，现在仅仅是几排铁条棚架子，如同空置的市集。 “大理苍山索道”六字，是金庸题的，因为苍山又名点苍山，在金庸的武侠世界中这里发生过许多故事。索道用那种开放式的双人座位缆车，速度不快，正好从容欣赏大理全貌。乘索道，走玉带云径一路可俯瞰洱海，是观赏洱海的最佳位置。苍山有十九峰十八溪，每一个都有美丽如梦幻般名字，十九峰马龙峰最高，海拔4122米，其余十八峰海拔也在3000米以上。玉带云径缠绕在山腰，基本是平路，舒服好走。我猜想这名字取自苍山著名的玉带云。路上人极少，时有溪涧流过，难得清静。走没多远是凤眼洞和龙眼洞，最新港版电视剧《天龙八部》就以这里作为灵鹫峰的外景地，要体验苍山的险可从此入。在山上的小亭，我们要了一盘炒螺一盘炒海菜花，螺是洱海的螺，个头大肉质饱满，很爽口，海菜花就是我们在泸沽湖见过的开白花的水生植物，价钱不贵，所费21元。路上碰到一对扬州来的老夫妻，他们也刚从迪庆丽江玩过来，现在住大理青年旅馆，才10元/床，很干净，明天晚上坐火车回昆明。他们的话让我们灵机一动，对呀，我们也坐火车回昆明，火车也是夜班，22:02及21:50各有一趟，是空调的，比起汽车安全、舒服又经济。 Wonderful.我们没打算在大理过夜，不过大理的住宿也不贵，我们看中一家叫“榆安园客栈”，在洋人街最东端，苍山脚下，50元/双人房，日式小庭院设计，有小木楼的餐厅，有免费Internet和洗衣服务，有兴趣的驴友可以去看看。索道关闭时间是19:00，回到古城继续逛街，这里的桌布比丽江便宜，15-20元/张，不过木刻制品就比丽江贵。晚饭当然吃小吃，什么米凉虾（1元/份），烤乳扇，凉鸡米线，又好吃又便宜，依依不舍中我们离开古城。路上看到一轮月牙挂在洱海上空，是洱海月呀。到下关火车站已经是21:00，买22:02 到昆明的卧铺票还有很多，坐位就卖完了，下铺票价96元，中铺86元。现在还没到旺季，票较充足，旺季时把票预订好较安全。想到可以好好睡一觉，明天就到昆明了，为这临时更改的决定而得意。
7.12昆明，游西山，夜宿昆明
6:30AM抵达昆明站，乘2路公交到小西门，再打的到翠湖南路的海鸥宾馆。上次在翠湖游玩时，我们就看中这家酒店地理位置优越，特地询问过价钱，120元/标间，这回是老马识途。一走近大门，只见高处挂着横幅大门摆着几块牌子，写欢迎**会议代表，欢迎**会议在此召开的字样，心里有点担心，到前台一问果然不出所料，房价升到180元。我们说上次来咨询过，这回是特地前来，前台才勉强把价钱降到140元。这里临着翠湖，步行5分钟即小西门，多路公交在此汇聚，交通四通八达，旁边大观商业城内有沃尔玛超市，可谓消闲，购物，出行都在门口了(我的语气怎么象卖房地产的?)。我们先在小西门的金穗大厦一楼商场门口买了一瓶促销的松花山泉，1.5升1.6元，全国最便的水，而且有把手便于提带。这也是我们强力推荐购买的旅行最佳饮用水。然后我们坐5路公交到市政府站，先到茶花宾馆买明天回广州的机票，然后回过头走一点路就到了著名的尚义街，这条窄窄的貌不惊人的内街是昆明的重要花市，时尚发源地之一。真是奇怪在昆明在云南我们看到的花长的都特别肥硕艳丽，即使谢了也不露败象。玫瑰一把20枝4元，百合一把10枝20元，据说品种好的如粉红的芭芭拉公主，白里带尖尖粉色的钦差和白色的西伯利亚要40多元。这里看得我心痒痒，不顾行李已经超负荷要求明天来买两束带走。逛完花市有些饿了，走到东风路樱花假日酒店斜对面就有振兴饭店，这是一家老馆子，米线做得不错。我要了10元一套的过桥米线，感觉这里的汤味道比较清淡，有鸡汤的香味，口感则较过桥园纯正多了，我把汤全喝完。吃完饭日头正大，我们决定先回宾馆午休，下午再去西山。从小西门到西山，可以乘坐到六路站场的车如5路61路等，然后换6路车到终点站高尧，到西山龙门还有7公里，可坐私营中巴，单程票价5元。另外有一趟51路途经火车站的，部分车次直达龙门部分只到高尧。在西山可领略滇池的浩渺，也可随俗摸龙门三摸，祈求带来好运。在我们眺望蓝天白云碧池之际，遗憾地发现昆明的天已经没有我七年前见到的那么蓝了滇池的水还是绿得异常，显然是富营养，藻类过多。难道要看蓝天只有到迪庆了吗？我们一路游玩到日落西山，游人渐稀少，山间的小松鼠出来觅食，带给我们意外的惊喜。昆明一到日落天就转凉，我们再次回宾馆添加了外套长裤，然后坐车到关兴路食菌一条街吃野生菌。挑了一家生意最火的”野菌园”，点了乌鸡汤做锅底，再加三份菌和青菜。哇，这儿的乌鸡真香，比起我在广州吃的打着什么走地鸡招牌的鸡好吃几十倍。菌的份量十足，同样的价钱在广州大约只能吃到1/3份量，难怪说昆明是吃菌的天堂。美美地吃了一顿，心满意足回宾馆，路上先生在翠湖南路拐角的点心店买了一份刨冰，3元满满的一盘，铺着一层红豆黑豆和不知什么豆还有西瓜粒，虽然已经很饱，可仍然觉得很好吃，我想是因为用料足，材料新鲜吧。
7.13 昆明购物，下午昆明-广州飞机。
一路走一路购物，我们的行李又长了，先生决定先把大件行李拿到机场存包，接下来可以轻装继续购物。于是睡了个懒觉后我们背上行李坐52路公交，我中途在市政府下车到尚义花市了解行情，先生则坐到终点站民航机场存包。趁着等的空当，我找小食店吃越南小卷粉，7年前我对这种食物留下美好记忆，现在这记忆驱使我去寻找。可是当我满怀喜悦满怀期待拉着先生一起品尝时，却只有失望了，不过，我坚持认为是我没选对地方吧。在花市我们买了两束玫瑰一束贝壳花(开绿色叶子花，在广州没见过)，用纸箱装好，15元。拿着花我们赶回宾馆，正好在中午12点退房。没有大件行李，我们步履轻松到小西门，逛逛广州没有的沃尔玛顺便买特产回广州送人。这里的环境不敢恭维，光线暗暗的，货品摆放也不突出， 比起百佳差远了，激不起购买欲望。转了一圈，感觉这里的东西不见得特别便宜，最便宜的要算蚊帐了，带支架的宫廷蚊帐才158元，是广州的1/3！ !可能这没蚊子吧。买了牦牛肉干，云南红我们又坐车到近日公园站，步行穿过花鸟市场就到了景星街，福华园过桥米线在此。仍然要10元一套的，买了票，有人请我们上二楼雅座，很快送来一套米线，一喝汤，名不虚传，香浓淳厚，比之振兴饭店的汤，这里厚重些而且火腿味浓。总结昆明三处最好的吃米线的地方，价钱都是一样的便宜，过桥园环境最舒服，味道则中规中矩；振兴饭店和福华园的味道更好些，一个鸡汤鲜淡，一个火腿浓烈，大家可各选所好。提醒一句是过桥米线吃10元的就好了，更贵的就只是奢华，反而会没了本色。难得昆明的名小吃都这样价廉物美，公交也一样，1元的公交就坐到民航候机楼。下午16:30我们坐上波音767离开了昆明云南。一出机场就体会到广州熟悉的喧哗闷热，其实昆明也一样车水马龙，但不知为什么它却是出奇的安静，没有了蓝天，它仍然有宁静让我怀念。
二费用章本次旅游费用共计8,000 元/两人。其中交通费（包括五折机票，火车票，车票及包车费）3750 元，餐饮费1320 元，住宿费（包括洗衣费）640元，门票（包括漂流、骑马、乘船、缆车、向导）1560元，其他杂费（如置办行装，采购礼物）800元。
综合分析，其中在云南的长途汽车交通费可以采取委托司机购短途票的方法降低约100-200元费用，具体视搭乘长途车的次数。餐饮及住宿就丰俭由人，弹性极大。门票方面带上学生证（研究生证也同样有用），可节约一半费用。
三提示章
1.以我们的经验以下是重要的随身物品：
² 药物--肠胃药（如黄连素，腹可安），感冒药，清热解毒药（如王老吉凉茶，牛黄解毒胶囊），抗菌素，维生素C，B，红景天（上雪山前在当地购买即可）
² 巧克力--迅速提供能量，补充体力
² 风筒--在一大堆湿漉漉的衣服鞋子面前，深感其重要，否则有无鞋无衣穿之虞
² 手电筒--夜间行动时的必需品，泸沽湖和白水台都会用得着
² 雨伞--云南即使在雨季也不会连续下雨，但同时又随时可能下雨
² 绳子--一段尼龙绳，可以晾衣服
² 扑克牌--打发无聊时光的最佳娱乐品，强烈建议四个人同行
2.地理气候云南5-10月是雨季，较潮湿。气温通常在20℃左右，很宜人。即使在梅里雪山等较高的地方，夜间也不会觉得很寒冷。另外与四川不同，这里绝大部分景点海拔都不高，一般在3000米以下，所以也不用特别担心高原反应问题（四川的川西地区可真的会连续几天在3500米以上呢）。
3.衣食住行关于衣，昆明乃至整个云南西北地区地处高原，盛夏气温也不高，日间可短袖衣轻便的运动裤牛仔裤，入夜及清晨要加外套穿长裤。夏季无需带很多衣服，有长袖衬衣、一件较厚的外套，再加一件保暖内衣预防万一就足够了。无论如何，风衣是必备的，一件防水风衣防水性能好的风衣，衬薄衬里，令事半功倍。鞋子呢则切记要穿防滑性能好的，不要穿跑鞋。
吃和住方面，云南旅游发达，即使在偏远地方吃住都不会很困难，条件最差的泸沽湖等地方，顶多也只是晚上不能洗澡完全不需要露营睡帐篷。
至于交通，上文已基本讲到了，有班车，也可以租车。昆明大理丽江中甸都会有很多人主动问你租不租车，价格都可面议，旺季与淡季不同。人多的话租车当然划算，人少的话，如果愿意，在丽江的多个驴窝、酒吧和青年旅馆都不断有人贴帖子征同行伙伴，可以共同租车。
4.民风与拉客滇西北的民风很好，丽江人温文守礼，中甸人则热情豪爽，都很乐于助人，以我们的所见所闻，并不是惟利是图的。虽然到处都有很多人拉客，有时开价会很高，但不会骗钱或强买强卖。比如租车，通常是不用付任何订金的，都是最后才给钱，凭诚信做生意。只要事先做足准备，自己拿定主意就行了。
好了，唠唠叨叨这么多，希望我们写的东西对大家游云南有所帮助。如果大家看了觉得好，或者还有什么想相互交流的，欢迎发E_mail：rqhcaac@163.net <mailto:rqhcaac@163.net>
作者：rqhcaac
