My trip to Shangri-La
2002 Nian April 28 to May 6, together with my colleagues and I went to Yin Li, Yunnan Lijiang, Zhongdian and Lugu Lake, this trip we Liulianwangfan. I returned to Beijing, we want to complete the trip record of their knowledge, but each time ready to begin writing, it also feel that their writing is bad, I got to June 2 until all the articles will be finished.
April 28, 2002, Sunday, sunny Beijing - Kunming - Lijiang
Yesterday, 22:30 just to get a ticket from Kunming to return to Beijing (1180 million), although the discount is not good from Beijing to Kunming (1020 yuan), but Li Yin and I are very satisfied, we decided to go to Yunnan to leaving a total of only 3 days time, can buy discount tickets very lucky.
This is my second trip to Yunnan. Last year, the Spring Festival and her husband went to Yunnan, "Kun Dahlia" standard first-line (Kunming - Dali - Lijiang), and finally went to Xishuangbanna, self-help travel, all travel with the tour group more than more free food and lodgings conditions Ye Hao, all the way down the four-star hotel stay, very comfortable.
Lijiang, the United States to its name, either because the husband used to entice me, Xishuangbanna, I really want to spend a few days more. So this time, I am an "over people" in his capacity as told Yin Li --- to Kunming, you will feel good, sunny, everybody in town flowers; to Dali, you will feel beautiful marble, there are Cangshan, there is Erhai Lake, There Butterfly Spring, there is a "romantic" and "Five Golden Flowers" a beautiful story; but when you get to Lijiang, you will feel really should not waste time in Kunming and Dali (Of course, this is only my personal feeling) . Yin Li fully listen to me, who told I have experienced it!
8:20 am the two of us ride the plane departed from Beijing, Kunming, arrived at 11:30. This season, Kunming and Beijing's climate is almost, but some of Kunming, the air should be clean, some days are also basket. In Kunming airport, we would like to take a chance, see if we can buy a day ticket from Kunming Lijiang. In the waiting hall, both of us are claiming to be a warm reception centers FIT guided the young man came to the first floor of "FIT reception center," he said, be able to buy the discounted tickets, booking hotels, and arranged for travel agents. (In fact, we later learned, buy air tickets on behalf of the business is not profitable, because all the air routes within Yunnan Yunnan Airlines from the monopoly of the basic travel agents can not get discounts.) That he in fact wanted to get our house pulled years, and then, with his silver tongue to convince us a hotel, letting us join the tour. Who is invited to, we are well prepared for his introduction of the "Kunming Day Tours", "Queensland - Great - Korea" first-line tour and the "Xishuangbanna Tour" were all not buy it, to assert that only buy two from Kunming to Lijiang ticket, even Kunming map, I have to carry, want to make our money is really too difficult! The poor sales, angry to death, face extremely long. Next to the one sold just signed a big single to persuade a couple took part in more than 3,000 yuan a month what regiment, he also grin happy to take our sales, a run on him (I felt very proud, and Yin Li). Richard for a long time in the computer the day the aircraft flying Lijiang only 17 o'clock and more flights there are tickets for other flights were full. While the need to wait a very long time (and more than five hours it), but also will, and we both Jiaoliao Qian (420 yuan each), luggage storage in the reception center, decided to eat lunch in Kunming, afternoon Kunming area to play for a while.
Out of the airport, on the taxi, went straight to "Da Guanlou" away. Da Guanlou little fun fact, according to my words, it is "the appendix in Dianchi Lake," because it is connected, and Dianchi Lake, the park's most famous photograph of even a hundred and eight-character couplet of (sorry, I am back is not down). The morning to come, will see a lot of seagulls, you can feed them with bread in the afternoon less than a seagull terms, they all flew, "Green Lake Park" went to. By taxi from the airport to Daguan Lou takes about 20 minutes, 25 dollars or so. Kunming taxi more standardized, the car should carry a table, little cheating phenomenon (which may be okay Expo governance). Where we are approaching Daguan Lou out of the car along the roadside there is a "soil family restaurant," looks pretty clean, we decided to lunch here. Li Yin vegetarian, but she took great care of me, and know that although I am not very greedy of meat, but there must be some meat dish, so we Hunsu, eat fairly tasty, I there are still a small Jinhua Bai sing, Yi "small Meimei, "a toast, we have had some smug. Yin Li surprised when the checkout told me: "only 17 of money," it seems like making a much cheaper, I'd be mentally prepared to tell her, "If local people to eat, then a bowl noodle, belly full of it to spend 12 money. "
Da Guanlou going kite exhibition, a door, saw the large and small, the park covered with all kinds of kites the main thoroughfare, there are a lot of people doing kite-flying competition. The park can always see some older people playing poker or playing mahjong, surrounded by fresh flowers, green trees set off, the really very pleasant.
Chinese mahjong be a unique landscape, there are Chinese people in place, some playing mahjong. Impression that the best mahjong Shu, Sichuan, and even a lot of mahjong parlors, but also conducted a mahjong contest it. I think that in Sichuan, street people who play mahjong as "perpetual motion machine", they are always there, playing cards, do not eat nor drink, never tired; Hangzhou, the best place for people to play mahjong should be considered "jiuxi Yan Shu, "Osmanthus fragrans opened the season in October, sitting in the sweet-scented osmanthus trees of the stone table, stone stool, smell the refreshing scent of sweet-scented osmanthus, sometimes there are sweet-scented osmanthus flying the fall, not strange if drunk! If arty such occasions, the next set Go is simply returned to the ancient ...
Embarrassed, pull up too far, but for Daguan Lou is nothing to say.
Back to the airport, the time is still too early (see, for Tai Guanlou boring, turn left one will be finished), the terminal where we stroll, look at the airport selling flowers, the price is much cheaper than in Beijing decided to return to Beijing again to buy some (in fact, had not even bought back the time, this is something). Finally boarded the plane to fly to Lijiang, the two of us on the plane was also thinking that the sale of travel agency affiliation downcast face, burst the hearts funny (enough of evil bar). From Kunming to Lijiang, more than 300 kilometers, flying time 45 minutes. About half-past six, we arrived at Lijiang. Off the plane, I give them a stay of the Naxi houses we will be calling the landlord. Play in Lijiang, we must live in the Naxi houses, but also fun and inexpensive. This accommodation is my brother's colleagues described a Lijiang Naxi. Our landlord called and the dragon, the Naxi people (Naxi the two clans --- and, wood), in Lijiang government, hospitality. His home is a standard Naxi houses, neat quadrangles, with Beijing's courtyard is different is that Naxi courtyard are booming. Clean, spacious courtyard, the house is carved doors and windows. Naxi people is a love of life, hygiene and environmentally conscious nation. Mr. and cherry trees is raising a big tree, a dog, a cat, a bird cage, a fish pond and a courtyard of flowers, Naxi Ren so every family. We arranged for the husband and son's room, just to thank the next luggage, the two of us on the minds of irrepressible excitement, decided to go to Old Town of Lijiang to go around.
Place that we live in big city next to the Institute a few minutes came to a large research the town, I feel a lot of visitors (in fact, when people still not over it, 51 more people may have after the walk). Came to a luxurious decoration called "Hou Chun," sit down restaurants in preparation for dinner. In this restaurant, we eat on a project called "chicken bean jelly beans" and delicious snacks, in Lijiang day, I eat chicken Dun Dun bean jelly beans, but only the best to do this. Chicken beans are produced from an altitude of 3,000 meters above the plateau, because the size of the chicken's eyes, it is called chicken beans. Chicken is chicken bean bean jelly beans processed by grinding after the crush (I and Li Yin was also personally practiced a chicken bean grinding it, I really have to have arm strength!), And coupled with crushed peanuts, chili oil, minced garlic, vinegar, coriander and other seasoning, a delicious chicken bean jelly beans on the do the work.
Eaten, they began to stroll in the ancient city. Where there is water, there are Aura; the water off the city, there is taste. Water Lijiang, Lijiang's water clarity bottoming out. The ancient city, there are many waterways, walking in the already raw shiny stone on the road, beside the flowing from the Yulong Snow Mountain millennium snow, water is a reflection of red lanterns on shore. Then you will feel close to is a flow of poetry, people sitting in the water next to the bar, eating, chatting, and everything is so harmonious ... I really feel bad literary foundation, so that a beautiful poem wants to it up.
Time unknowingly already 23:00 o'clock, we had to go back. On the road has also lost her way, thanks to a high school student sent us back. Later that Dayan's old town is designed and built according to gossip, how can I be so easy Let us find a way ah!
The house of Mr. and new bathroom and toilet repairs, the condition is also good, 24 hours hot water it! We are very fragrant at night to sleep, because tomorrow should climb Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Travel Tips:
1, in the Kunming airport can in fact be on the 2nd floor directly buying tickets from Kunming to Lijiang, but do not discount, what to buy are the same. But if you do not have time right at the airport waiting for flights to be the case, might go to a floor, "FIT reception centers", the cheek, only tickets and other services without requiring. Because here, you can storage luggage, this way we can liberate the hands.
2, in Lijiang live in residential areas must be living in the city center the best, and what the "big stone bridge Inn," "Old Town Flower Malaysia Inn", conditions are good, but also on the water's edge, the price is not expensive, but the the basic set is not on the tourist season. While we are on April 28 to Lijiang, but all over the ancient city where the inn, so the edge of living in the city, the price is a room 100 yuan / day (low season 30-40 / day). Old Town Village inn prices similar to standard double rooms, with TV, toilet, hot water 24 hours. Lijiang residential Inn was very clean and sheets changed every day, though rest assured.
And the Long Address: Guangyi Street, Old Town of Lijiang in Yunnan Province Optical Pitt Lane 71 (Sen Long Hotel Lijiang, Longtan aside the direction to the city 100 meters)
Tel :0888-5126720 (home) 5100949 (office)
Phone :0888-6685798
3, arrived in Lijiang airport, can take the airport bus, 10 yuan a person, you can reach the Lijiang city center, very convenient. Does not recommend taking a taxi, because last year I was an opportunity to fleece a return to the airport the driver usually does not hit the table. However, in Lijiang city can take a taxi, in cities, were all six of money. Lijiang city there is a light (Mini Bus), extension of circular motion around the Old Town of Lijiang, a money to spend, as long as you like, make the number of laps were OK (who is so boring).
April 29, Monday, sunny Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Maoniuping, wood House, the Dongba Palace, "Phonon"
7 am, I woke up and Yin Li, and holding a basin to wash your face brush your teeth, chattering as happy as when you live in a dormitory on the University of the girls (sorry, Zhuangnen!)
Wash finished, our drivers have also arrived. Tall, dark, called Liu Jiangfeng, looking about three years old. We call him Xiao, and it is to help us, Mr., and said one of his relatives. Today, we have to pack his car to the Yulong Snow Mountain, and a number of attractions along the way, saying that the price of a good chartered 100 yuan a day (price fair, anyway, who are earning money, it is better Zhao Shuren, but also off his personal emotions). Go out a look at the car pretty good, is a red Jetta. Xiao that we should first pull a northerner with small restaurants, with breakfast. Fried dough sticks, steamed buns, porridge, 4 money, Sa eating belly full, Sheung!
We come to buy votes in the Yulong Snow Mountain's cableway. To ensure the safety of the ticket office is located in the Yulong Snow Mountain in Lijiang city, so that people can control the flow per hour requirement can only allow a fixed number of uphill, in order to avoid congestion occurs on the phenomenon of snow-capped mountains, ropeway ticket per person 110 per issue. We should know that a place at an altitude of 4,500 meters, the construction of ropeway, the difficulty can be imagined. Xiao told us that in the repair cableway, when there is often an avalanche, but also killed a number of migrant workers do. Migrant workers back a bag of cement up the mountains, need two days time, wage is 600 yuan a bag of cement, such a high wage, imagine how much more difficult.
Last year, when the Spring Festival to the Yulong Snow Mountain, but the wind was too large, snow-capped mountains on the tramway stop, and the poor we are alive at an altitude of 3,000 meters at 3 hours after arranging team, but finally came back with nothing. Do not ask me foolish ask what do they climb the mountain, Yulong Snow Mountain peaks still remain in order to make her maiden it! Depending on the local Naxi Ren Yulong Snow Mountain as Kamiyama, do not want people to be able to conquer her. In fact, I would like for a climber, conquering an elevation of more than 6000 meters of the mountain there will be no temptation to conquer Mount Everest so much. Moreover, the Yulong Snow Mountain of climate variability, the ice is unstable, why take the risk, if their boat capsized in the stream ditch ... (This is personal opinion)
In order to reduce our reaction to the altitude, named Xiao Liu suggested that we first went to Maoniuping, it is a broad plateau meadow, elevation 3,000 meters (Lijiang city is more than 2300 meters above sea level). From the foot of the mountain to the Maoniuping There are two ways, take the cable car, or riding. Of course, we chose to ride. Mountain hard to walk in some places steep slope to see little Yunnan horses, Yin Li seems to have some doubts whether this small Yunnan Ma Tuozhe our mountains, I have no hesitation on the horse, because I know that, do not look Yunnan Ma heads small, leg muscles can be really good, I remember when Wu Sangui gallop in Yunnan, as well as Wei Xiaobao escort Jianning princess in Yunnan, Yunnan and horse riding are all bar ... sorry, pushing them far away.
Ma is a kind of spiritual intelligent animals, it can feel the backs of people who do not will be riding (because we can not very well grasp the body center of gravity). Encountered novice, well-behaved horse would slowly walking, pick some good way to go; if accidentally catch a naughty horse, it will Tuozhao you flew up, and sometimes even to the trees fall in., horseback on the unfortunate from is likely to be a branch D down ... Fortunately for us, is a character caught up with two fairly docile horses (horses, visitors can not be selected because all of the horses through the numbers catch up with who is who). I am riding a seven-year-old bay, Yin Li played a five-year-old riding the white horse. Two years older is not the same, Yin Li's white horse is always trailing behind in my bay bottom.
The green grass on the plateau of late, yellow, and if 7-8 months to come, it will look much more. Originally, I thought that this would see a lot of yak, but the surprise is not a yak, but rather everywhere selling yak meat, roast, there are fried, as well as yak meat, we are without food I do not know how to taste.
Suddenly, spreading waves of voices in song - <<Qinghai-Tibet Plateau>>, that without the sculpted, natural sound people feel very comfortable.
Suddenly, we feel that, if able to practice yoga on Maoniuping lying must be a sense of the kinds of a sight to behold! Think about it, every time we have a large group of people crowded into an underground layer of Sigma, smell the scent of feet of each other, but also take a deep breath! Here the air so fresh mind is so calm, not what a vain attempt to reach the realm of the kind we do? (From Yunnan came back, every time I practice yoga, all imagination is lying in a meadow on the Maoniuping --- This is called meditation).
Yunnan horse ride down the mountain, the snow-capped mountains and along the way to go through one called "baishuihe" attractions. Which is known here, is because there has been a test of men and women a place of love. Because this water is melting snow on the Yulong Snow Mountain, bone-chilling, if the man can adopt a beloved woman in cold water for 15 minutes, then stops, it means faithful to his love. We can not see standing in the water a "lack of eye-", we are only washing hands in the river is said to bring good luck (I wonder if our good fortune and the subsequent hand-washing are not linked).
Finally arrives at the foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, cars parked in the parking lot at the foot of the mountains, where interchange with all major Bus ropeway tickets purchased with visitors transported to a place 3,000 meters above sea level, and then sit cable car to reach an elevation of 4,500 meters, "Glacier Park. " Xiao said that the past few days Fortunately, people do not so much if it reached 51 days, exclusive 4,5 hours of team is not unusual for him (indeed verified his words, several of my friends in May 2 to the Yulong Snow Mountain, a look at so many people, just no up). We are very lucky along the way, sitting train, riding ropeway no queue.
Snow-capped mountains on the cold, the wind, but for those of us who went from the north, not what is, Beijing's cold winter. But here, high altitude, Yin Li, and I was not one will chew the legs being insipid, dizziness, slow reaction, but also it would not want to say, we realize that this is the "altitude sickness." Norwegian heavy pace, we came to the lounge to two glasses of "Dian Hong tea" to ease our discomfort. This is my best so far tasted sweet tea, we decided to return to Lijiang, we must buy some Dian Hong tea and back to Beijing (bought Daoshi bought, but always felt that there is no snow-capped mountains at an altitude of 4,500 meters on top of drinking tea It tastes).
On the way back to Lijiang, in fact there are a number of attractions, Baisha murals, Dongba God Garden, Yufeng Temple, and so on, in my proposal, we discarded these places. Along the way, I and Li Yin figured tomorrow's arrangements, we also plan to Lugu Lake and Zhongdian, but transport has not been resolved. If our common thought can continue to pack Xiao car, do not make things easier it? After some bargaining, ultimately to 1,300 yuan turnover (even if this price is cheap, and if during the 51 day, at least 1,000 dollars), Lugu Lake and Zhongdian 3 tour, named Xiao Liu also responsible to help us in this 2 Contact dwelling places (of course, is that we pay). Arrangements for a few days after the trip, and we Dungan easy.
Lijiang ancient times known as Yeosu, a city without walls. In ancient times, local officials in charge of Lijiang, known as "toast," the local Naxi people of Lijiang has two surnames, one is "and" is the name of the poor; the other most common surname in the "wood", wood toast on the last name. Because toast surname wood, so fortune-teller said, Lijiang can not have walls, or else not to become a "storm" is the word it? As a result, there is no wall Lijiang. Lijiang City, the most interesting places is the old city, called "Dayan Town", all the stone road, there is no dust. Lijiang ancient city where the houses are wooden structures, old houses are few, and most of Lijiang re-built after a major earthquake. Municipal unified planning, design and style, it looks uniform. "Wooden House" is the official residence of Wood's toast, I remember when Xu Xia-ke came to Lijiang, wood toast and there is not even invited him to appear on the home. When the curious Xu Xia-ke Lion Rock in the wood after the government see the whole picture when the wood House, immediately understood the reasons for not inviting him. Because the size of this toast is too magnificent House, and went so far as is an imitation of the construction of Beijing's Forbidden City, though the scale is not as big as the National Palace Museum, but also richly ornamented, but also an excellent feng shui, it is very worth seeing the place. On our side tour, while the luxury of the wood's toast more than amazing.
Tour End "Wooden House", another important task is to watch the "Dongba Palace" show. Lijiang Dongba Culture is a unique cultural phenomenon by the hieroglyphs, <<Dongba>>, Dongba painting and the Dongba dance music composition (Note: The "Dongba" is "wise" means). "Dongba Palace" in the town of Temple treasure must be said that a 94-year-old Dongba, and every day he has to perform, singing and dancing, did not look like a dusk old man; on the contrary, we have in him to feel infinite vitality, he also has a child's innocence and abundant wisdom. In an impromptu singing of songs old Dongba, he sung: "13 the moon does not look good, but a few days she has to fulfill; 15 the moon look good, but a few days she was missing. Full Moon On absence, as the same life. "
After reading performance just 8:30, we started wandering Dayan town (and later we have summed up the characteristics of the trip --- eating, drinking, playing, visiting). Just aimless wandering, we found a shop selling T-Shirt, there hung a written Dongba hieroglyph of the T-Shirt, suddenly attracted our attention. The owner is a young man, early 30s, live painting. We really like his work, chatting with him that he is from Shandong, learning art, and three years ago, came to Lijiang, the first one is the Lijiang Dongba pictograph with the painting in the clothes of people (and we became good friends, this is something). His T-Shirt prices range from 50 to 90, we Ruanmoyingpao, that is no less than cut prices to, as he said that his T-Shirt worth that much money. In fact, our hearts know that his paintings did better than others, so also recognized now, the two bought a total of 4,5 cases.
Happy with fruitful, may rest as early as possible tomorrow morning then have to walk far!
Travel Tips:
1, to Maoniuping must be riding, cable car ride being insipid! Riding the park a person from 45, the unified management of all the horses are not taken in the.
2, to the Yulong Snow Mountain in Lijiang if they do not, it seems a little disappointed. But if you catch up with the tourist season, I advise you not to waste time queuing, and 4,5 hours, than in the more than walk around the town of Dayan Lijiang, Yulong Snow Mountain seen from afar anyway, look to the United States much more than in the past.
3, if they do not want to hire buses to go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, you can also participate in the Yulong Snow Mountain Day Tour, prices cheaper, Lijiang all of the travel agents can sign up easily.
4, painting T-Shirt of the painter called "phonons," Home Address: Lijiang Dayan Town, 71 Kwan Mun Hau Street 6, Tel :0888-5125551. To the Lijiang Dongba culture must buy some things written in hieroglyphs of T-Shirt is a good choice.
April 30, Tuesday, sunny, Tiger Leaping Gorge, Zhongdian, Napa lake, Bita
Got up early, 7:30 we set off from Lijiang. In order to easier to move forward, Yin Li, and I focus on two people's luggage into a box to put together a two-day necessities of life, another a box to stay in the house of Mr. and, anyway, back still living here. Before I left when the trees from their own husband and picked some cherries for us (this is the first time I saw the cherry tree), each crystal clear. Back in Beijing saw the cherries, I think husband and family tree.
Today, our main destination was Zhongdian. Zhongdian from May 1 to 7 large-scale celebrations held to mark the Zhongdian County was renamed to "Shangri-La County", all of the hotels all fully booked, but fortunately we have morning till the day, there is a place to live.
The way to Zhongdian, we first went to visit "Tiger Leaping Gorge," county town 60 kilometers away from Lijiang, Yulong Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain is located between the Jinsha River which flows from the canyon to wear off, this is one of the world's deepest canyon . Tiger Leaping Gorge is divided into upper, middle and the next three paragraphs, can be reached by car is the tiger jumped on the back foot of the two required. Was said in the next tiger jump tiger jumped over the previous imposing, but it is not in our plans. Many foreigners carrying a mountain of luggage and walk tiger jumped, and we really do not like courage, Tiger Leaping Gorge length of 16 kilometers, and take up very tired (and not the flat Yo)! One woman came to Australia in the tiger jumped after being deeply moved by the local beauty, decided not to go, she and a local Naxi young man married, but also opened a inn, foreigners who are flocking.
Tiger Leaping Gorge parking lot in the hillside, we need to from here walk along the stone steps have been down, come to the end of Tiger Leaping Gorge (more than 3900 meters deep gorge it!). Has just reached half of the Tiger Leaping Gorge to hear that thunderous sound of water. The more down to go, the greater the roar of water to the bottom, and the earth were trembling. I have been deeply shaken by the forces of nature, the great people at this time is so explicit small, pale and without being able to ...
We are feeling the Creator of the gods, suddenly found several Yi kids, they stood at the roadside dressed in brightly colored costumes sang songs to us smile, Shashi cute! We just have to come up with the camera take pictures, to see a child suddenly behind him yelled: "Daddy, someone gave us camera, come collect the money"! Really scared us hop.
Lijiang, Zhongdian distance of about 100 kilometers, is the capital of Diqing is an elevation of 3300 meters of mountain basins. Here has always been an important pathway leading to Tibet, the ancient road which is called "Tea-Horse Road", in this path, tea, cloth goods, and other necessities of life continuously transported from the Mainland, Tibet, in Tibet, after the change of horses return to the Mainland, when the need to travel from Lijiang to Lhasa 3 months time. Now, Tea-Horse Road 204 State Road has become.
British writer James Hilton in his novel Lost Horizon has been depicted in an eternal paradise of peace and quiet, he said that that place is called the "Shangri-la", while in the Tibetan, Shangri-la is the "heart of the sun and the moon" means . However, the Shangri-La in the end, where is there is no conclusion so far is generally considered to be from Lijiang to the northwest, has been to Diqing somewhere in the region. But I said, why should hard to find, as long as where do you think is good, where is your heart Shangri-La.
At noon, we reached Zhongdian's Napa lake. This is a seasonal lake, is also a mountain basin. When the dry season, here is a vast steppe; when the rainy season, the grass was under water and became lakes. We are at this time is actually quite dry, so to see is a large grass, but grass is not very green. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the grass dotted with yaks, and horses. Here you can ride, we need to hurry, we only walk on foot here.
Leave the Napa lake, we came to Bita Lake, which is an alpine lake surrounded by mountains. From the parking lot to Bita Lake, 7 km away, you can ride, but also on foot. Li Yin and I consider themselves superior physical strength, but also for people who will not be riding, horseback riding is also Tinglei, so we chose to walk. However, at an altitude of 3300 meters this place can be considered high altitude train. We followed the path of wood Dacheng keep going and going kinda fast, our pride (which is downhill, uphill're not quite so comfortable)! In the dense woods, forced march for 20 minutes out of the forest, before your eyes are an open lawn, Bita had sight of. Street there are many Tibetan men, inviting tourists dressed in Tibetan clothing photography. One of them looks like Stengel, each has a visitor to his booth camera, he burst into song, although singing is what we do not know, but we have been infected by his enthusiasm. Some Tibetans blowing flute, melodious whistles carried by the wind away, and as a music landscape.
We MAONIUPING time no see yaks. But in the Zhongdian, along the way to see a lot of yaks and horses, do not know whether the wild, anyway do not see herding people. I remember at Stanford University to see a lot of horses are also no grazing, they are free to graze in the mountains, no chewing mouth son, no reins on the neck, almost like Bima Wen in the Royal Horse Tianma kept in prison, and the general free men.
Bita lake from the back parking lot of the 7 km walk up is some difficulty, because it is uphill. Beginning we also Shuishuoxiaoxiao later do not want to speak. More or less a bit of altitude sickness, especially in the violent activities of the more obvious when the sense of feel a little headache. In the final two kilometers, I have been in a leading position, followed by Li Yin on me, not help, she said: "It seems that there is no practice or ballet practice taekwondo body good", I am really proud of!
18:30, we returned to Zhongdian city, to eat supper. The past few days have been eating the rice, for me this northerner who, a little too comfortable, in particular, would like to eat pasta, so I suggest eating a dumpling. Looking for a long time to find a man opened the Northeast Dumpling House. Unfortunately, Li Yin vegetarian, could eat meat dumplings, had no choice but to eat egg noodles, I'd eat quite in cool! Last year, Chinese New Year in Xishuangbanna 3 days, I and my husband also found a north-east Dumpling Hall, Dun Dun dumplings (I really do not like to eat in Yunnan Rice Vermicelli).
Originally planned to be a guest of the evening to the Tibetans at home to watch the Tibetan folk performances, but we went in what the Tibetans have just had passed away, is the funeral, family members said that being at home chanting monks, release souls from purgatory souls, and we were dropped.
Zhongdian has entered the Tibetan areas, housing areas and the Lijiang Naxi homes vary greatly. Tibetan houses are mostly two-story, livestock on the first floor, people living in the second floor. However, due to health reasons, now have a lot of families "separated humans and animals" the. Tibetans want to know whether the money, take a look at his family house pillars on it. The more thick columns of families more money, think about the Hall of Supreme Harmony Forbidden City will be able to understand.
8:00, we return to the hotel. This is our entire trip back home the first time, because there is no place to go to Zhongdian city, but also very cold at night, the wind was great. The room was also very cold, and we entered the room, even the coats are reluctant to come off. Fortunately, there are blanket, plug in first! Other electric blanket with the warmth, Zaiqu bath, out of the bathroom directly to bed, cold. Yin Li wash his head again stand the cold, her little towel on their heads, was I ridiculed as the "children's jump rope" (a monumental piece of towel and bedding negligent Yin Li landed the hotel, as in the Dean eternal memory).
TV is simply not available we can see that no number of sets of boredom but to sleep!
Travel Tips:
1, go to Zhongdian (now known as Shangri-La) must take the thick clothing, Zhongdian high elevation and low temperature, but still very cold at night.
2, the road from Lijiang to Zhongdian should bring water and snacks along the way selling is hard to find water.
3, if you think you do not have enough physical strength, it is proposed should be riding Bitahai of 7 km, or at least should be riding a section of uphill. If you believe that your body is also good, walk Ye Hao, focusing on experience Well!
May 1, Wednesday, sunny Songzanlinsi, Lugu Lake
While living in hotels in Zhongdian just opened a brand new, breakout You Qiwei, interior features was so flattered, the only gratifying thing is to have 24-hour hot water. The morning, Li Yin and I feel a little tired, not right, we are afraid of the cold, everyone built two very thick quilt, a good heavy. However, the scenery outside the hotel is really good, the window will be able to see the Snowy Mountains.
After breakfast, we check out the hotel. 8 o'clock, by the Songzanlinsi, also known as the small Potala Palace, is the head of Tibetan Buddhism in Yunnan. Tall temple silhouetted against the white clouds in the blue sky under the imposing look. Mountain temple was built, layer upon layer upon layer, patchwork.
In fact, I have always been a kind of Tibetan Buddhism, the feeling is both mysterious and daunting, because a child read some description of the Tibetan serf persecution movies, and some psychological disorder (children are often subject to a number of incentives to stay in the shadow of the psychological, educational children's time must pay attention to). Into Songzanlinsi the main hall, I heard chanting in a low voice, that voice does not ring, but a kind of deeply shocking, given shape appears to come from inside the chest. I could not help fighting a cold war, Li Yin was very calm, she is a Buddhist devotees, and was very devout; I on the contrary, although the Christian's parents have repeatedly told me preaching, but I still have no religion. I am waiting for fate, I believe with the heart that one day the call of what I might believe, but probably no more than that time. Suddenly remembered one of the Lama Temple in Beijing, my husband said something about the Buddha's ill, a friend of mine once said: "Do not Bangfo." My husband immediately opposed it, saying: "If the Buddha is not the fear that I am slander; if afraid of me slander, then it is certainly not the Buddha. "bar is very philosophical! Sorry, pushing them far away.
Baiguo the Buddha, we are out of the hall, main hall is an open square outside and wanted to be a place for the Law Council. From a small hallway out of a lama, he dressed in purple-red gown, Li Yin and I spontaneously said that if the monks in some more, then take a picture should look great. Bodhisattva spirit appeared and a large group of monks rushed forward to take over, they all stood on the steps, simply waiting for us to give them like a phase according to the collective! (According to out really good photos, we also do self-appointed photographer.) In fact, "see the magic in the mundane" is a very difficult thing, it seems to evaluate the level of an accomplished photographer is to look at how he should seize the life's most mundane moments, like this beautiful and picturesque place, even we can拍出好照片.
Leave Songzanlinsi, our next goal is to Lugu Lake. Zhongdian, Lijiang and Lugu Lake is like an inverted location of the isosceles triangle, Zhongdian at 300 kilometers northwest of Lijiang, Lugu Lake in Lijiang 300 km north-east, from Zhongdian to Lijiang, Lugu Lake have to go through. Around noon, we returned to Lijiang, where ate lunch, continue to work towards the lake.
I know that because of Lijiang Lijiang Naxi ancient music and the earthquake, but heard that the lake would like to say what the two cars that Beam, and she wrote <<out of the daughter of the country>> and <<go back to her country>> is really Lugu Lake in this remote place to do a very good publicity.在泸沽湖居住着摩梭人，据说是纳西民族的一个分支（但摩梭人自己并不承认），因为人数太少，目前也只有不到1万人，所以不能算作一个民族，只能叫做“摩梭人”。这里的摩梭人至今还保留着母系社会的生活方式，男不婚、女不嫁，各自居住在母亲家，晚上进行“走婚”活动。
去泸沽湖的山路非常难走，都是盘山路，非常陡，好在尹莉和我都是上车就睡，倒也不觉得难受，只是难为了司机小刘。 5个多小时之后，当我们的车转啊转啊，泸沽湖终于映入眼底的时候，兴奋之情溢于言表。在绿色群山环抱中，泸沽湖象一颗美丽的蓝宝石镶嵌在中央，美不胜收。像这种山中环抱的湖泊，我还见过千岛湖，但远不如泸沽湖这般自然天成，水质也差得多。泸沽湖里只有一条烧柴油的警察巡逻船，其他全部都是手划的“猪槽船”，所以没有污染。湖中水最深处有90多米，能见度在12米。
我们住在湖边的一个摩梭人家，这里环湖的摩梭人家全部改成了旅馆。摩梭人的住宅与众不同，一定有一间“祖母房”，当家的女人住在这里，是个单间的平房，家里其他的人都住在两层的楼上。为了招待旅客，二楼的房间都改为了客房。
尹莉和我被安排住在二楼的一个三人间，于是我们花90块钱买下了这三个床位。屋内的设施很简单，但还算干净。唯一不适应的是窗户是透明的，窗外就是公共的过道，虽说玻璃是深蓝色的，但还是有点不自在。
在泸沽湖，晚上唯一活动是参加篝火晚会，在一个大院子里进行。听司机小刘介绍说，摩梭的姑娘小伙在篝火晚会上对歌，游客也可以参与。摩梭人是很开放的，如果小伙子对某个女子心仪，就会抠她的手心；如果女子觉得小伙子也不错，就反抠他的手心，那么就意味着双方可以建立情侣关系。
不知是好奇心的驱使还是没地方可去，反正天还没黑，心急的游客们就挤在了篝火晚会的大门口。这时来了一个身穿艳丽民族服装的女孩，看上去年龄不过十七八岁，有点腼腆，五官清秀，就是长得黑（像我们每天抹那么多防晒霜，还被晒黑了呢，更别说他们整天风吹日晒的了）。她的名字叫“嚓儿”（是音译，汉语里没有这个发音。），多好听！好容易大门开了，大伙鱼贯而入，分别挑选座位坐好。接下来又是等待，演员们好久才出来，表演集体舞，一个摩梭小伙子吹着笛子，一群姑娘小伙围着中间的篝火又唱又跳。后来游客们也加入了，但是游人太多，五六百吧，领舞的才20来人，比例太悬殊，有点跳不起来，于是尹莉和我离开了这里（晚上太黑，没发现抠手心现象）。
出了大门，立刻感到神清气爽。泸沽湖的晚上“月明星密”，这种景象只有在我很小的时候见过。湖水轻轻拍打着堤岸，周围是那么宁静。沿着湖边有很多摩梭人在做烧烤，烤鱼是一定要尝的，是从湖中捞来的鱼，没有污染的，味道鲜美，才一块钱一条，便宜吧！吃饱了一结帐，40块钱，以为算错了，一问才知道，鱼是1块1条，可是土豆啊，西红柿啊，每个5块钱（鱼是湖里自产的，可是蔬菜需要种植，成本高）。
泸沽湖实在是情侣们的天堂，安静、空旷、美丽如诗，两个人偎依在湖边说说情话，一起看月亮，一定是件很浪漫的事情。尹莉和我沿着湖边走了几个来回，感叹了一把，回到客栈准备睡了。蓝色的透明玻璃搞得我们俩很是尴尬，还时不常的有人从窗外经过，于是我们坐在床边，准备好睡衣，“一、二、三拉灯”！
旅行小贴士：
1、前往泸沽湖一定要雇当地司机或者跟随当地的旅行团，自己开车实在不是一个明智的选择。因为泸沽湖位于宁蒗彝族自治州，路上沿途都是彝族人，可能会碰到敲诈的情况。彝族人经常赶着牲畜走上马路，倘若你不小心伤及一头牲畜，把麻烦就大了。轧死一只鸡，要赔800块钱，一头羊赔3000块，要是一头牛，惨了！要赔2、3万块钱呢！要是没有钱，彝族人会把你的车扣下，反正车子更贵。我们从泸沽湖返回丽江的时候，还真的碰到了一起交通事故，一个倒霉蛋轧死了一头羊……
2、在泸沽湖住在摩梭人家是很有味道的，可以参观摩梭人的建筑，了解他们的生活，那都是我们闻所未闻的。唯一的不方便是洗澡，只有几家酒店提供24小时热水洗澡，但是都不在湖边。
3、篝火晚会呢，去不去由你。去了可能觉得没劲，不去又觉得遗憾。
4、手电一定要带，晚上泸沽湖的灯光较少，而且客房里是没有卫生间的，需要到楼下的厕所去，一路上都需要照明。
5月2日，星期四，晴 泸沽湖、丽江
清早起来，我们来到了泸沽湖边，参加游船活动。乘坐摩梭人自制的长长的小船，我们来到了一个小岛上，岛上倒没什么好玩的。摩梭人的小船很是可爱，窄窄长长的，还都漆着鲜艳的桔红色。船上一般是三个船工，两个划船的，一个掌舵的，至少有一个是女船工，因为这里是母系社会嘛，女的掌管财政大权。我们要求一个船工小伙子唱歌，他一点也不腼腆，想了想，放声唱了一首«背水姑娘»。相比少数民族而言，汉族人显得没什么特点，没有民族服装，没有民族歌曲，又不能歌善舞，表达感情的方式也含蓄的多。
下了船，时间还早，尹莉和我看到湖边有很多马匹，热情的马夫们上前推销，反正我们也没别的事可做，于是又上了马。和马夫聊天才知道，如果是男游客，那女马夫就会过来；反过来，我们的马夫是两个小伙子。在泸沽湖不会有争抢客人的情况，因为这里实行收入均分，每家都会派几个人出来，划船、骑马、晚上去篝火晚会唱歌跳舞，所有的收入平均分给每一家人，有点像“原始共产主义”。马夫牵着我们的马上到半山腰，这里在下午的时候会有男女对歌和摔跤表演，可这时候才上午10点钟，只有我们四个人。我们在山上照了很多相片，把泸沽湖的美景收入到相机中。
骑着马回到湖边，尹莉和我还不甘心，软磨硬泡地说服了船工老大，上了一条船。其实我们也没什么目的地，只是想在水面上漂一会。船工看出了我们的心思，干脆把桨交给了我们俩，趴在船舷上睡了，我们倒也自得其乐。和掌舵的小伙子聊天，他去过的地方还真不少，北京、大连、广州、深圳、青岛…可是他说，他还是最爱这里---泸沽湖，在外面闯荡了几年之后，又回到了这里。更有意思的是，这里的摩梭人非常喜欢他们“走婚”的生活方式。只要男女双方愿意，就可以建立“阿夏”关系（有点象“对象”），可以走婚，而且同时可以有几个固定的阿夏，互不干涉。如果双方感情不好了，可以解除这种关系。由于这是没有婚姻关系的，所以当然也不存在离婚，这是中国婚姻法中的特例。如果一个人同时拥有的“阿夏”越多，证明她/他越有魅力，是很值得骄傲的！
泸沽湖最有名的酒吧叫做“大狼吧”。一个广州女孩3年前来到了泸沽湖，被这里的美丽所吸引，并且爱上了一个当地的摩梭小伙子“大狼”，大狼也深深爱上了她。于是他们结婚了，这在摩梭人中是很少见的，这意味着大狼必须放弃自己走婚的生活方式，对这个姑娘从一而终（当地很多摩梭小伙子对这种婚姻关系很是不解，而且还同情地说那些结了婚的男子“真可怜”）。他们开了个酒吧叫“大狼吧”，就在湖边上，媒体对他们报道得特别多，所以非常出名，每天生意都好得不得了。大狼吧布置得很别致，木屋、木桌椅，还有好多介绍泸沽湖的书籍。在这里吃中午饭，还很幸运地见到了大狼夫妇。
我们离开了泸沽湖，又要返回丽江了。一路上，我想，泸沽湖的魅力一方面在于她的自然风光，另一方面大概也在于其神秘的母系社会生活方式，有些事情是我们这些过路客永远也不会理解的。
傍晚，我们又回到了丽江。在灯火通明的河边街道行走，和昨天晚上泸沽湖的夜色反差是那么大。我们还有一个任务就是要找到那天看到的卖T-Shirt的小店，尹莉和我都认为那天T-Shirt买少了。可是找啊找啊，怎么也没找到。今天的人显然比五一前多得多，摩肩接踵。一个老外在路旁打公用电话，我们分明听到他说：“I've never seen so many people in my life!”
T-Shirt店没有找到，倒是找到了一家福建人开的卖茶叶的商店，蓝贵人和滇红都是我的最爱，一定不能放过。 （现在我特别喜欢泡上一壶香茶，听着自己喜欢的CD，晒着太阳看书或者写点东西。我的这些篇游记都是这样写出来的，你能听到我的文字中飘出的音乐和淡淡的茶香吗？）
拎着茶叶，尹莉和我放肆地在街上行走，那种久违的无拘无束的感觉真好！
旅行小贴士：
滇茶是很有名的，蓝贵人、滇绿、滇红、普洱等都是明智的选择。但是一定不要在很小的商店买茶叶，虽然价格便宜，但是有可能买到假茶叶。
推荐我们买茶叶的地方叫“四方街茶艺中心”
地址：丽江古城东大街玉龙茶艺674100，电话：0888-5187985 13708829500， 联系人：施丽昆。我已经尝过了买回的茶叶，味道不错。
5月3日，星期五，晴 丽江“茶马古道”之旅
虽说是闲逛，但尹莉和我每天都会找到一个闲逛的主题。又来到了大研镇，发现很多地方都有“茶马古道之旅”的旗帜飘扬，于是我们今天的主题就是“茶马古道之旅”。
丽江在五一期间挑选出一些有代表性的民居，每个民居里展示一种能够代表旧时“茶马古道”或者丽江特色的内容，如丽江小吃展、铁器展、手工艺品展、造纸术展等。
按图索骥，我们在大研镇中穿行。装满了一盒丽江蜜饯，我们又去参观手工艺品展。进入院子，一大群纳西妇女围坐在院子里正在刺绣，她们绣的是纳西妇女背后的“七星伴月”的图样（代表着纳西族妇女披星戴月的劳作）。一位70多岁的老妈妈坐在一台古老的织布机旁边休息，应我们的要求，她又兴致勃勃地给我们表演起织布。她身着漂亮的民族服饰，头上、手上都带着装饰品。当双手双脚在织布机上忙碌的时候，手镯清脆的撞击声和织布机的声音有规律地响起来，这哪里是在劳作，分明像是在舞蹈，我体会到“劳动着是美丽的”这句话。
走着走着，迎面发现了画T-Shirt的声子，真是踏破铁鞋无觅处，得来全不费功夫。声子也认出了我们，他正要回家吃中午饭，看到我们是他的T-Shirt的爱好者，就邀请我们去他家参观，原来我们已经到了他家门口了。声子是山东青岛人，学美术的，曾经独自走过阿里，去过西藏。 3年前来到了丽江，就在这里住下了。声子的姐姐也是学美术的，和声子一起画T-Shirt。声子的太太是个爽快地东北人，夫妇二人在这里租了个四合院，知道租金是多少吗？说出来吓你们一跳，一个月才1500块钱！他们的儿子刚刚四个月，叫“大汉”，是个活泼的小东西，精力十分充沛。
声子家里有很多他在阿里拍的照片和自己创作的艺术品，很有艺术氛围。声子邀请我们在他家吃午饭，我们也不推托。饭桌支在院子中间，围坐在桌旁的除了声子夫妇外，还有一位从北京来的女孩，名字叫小魏，是声子太太的朋友，她的儿子“臭蛋”正在楼上睡觉。虽然我们只是刚刚相识，却像老朋友一样，谈天说地。
吃过了饭，应我们的要求，声子带着尹莉和我又来到了他的店里，我们也不含糊，又挑选了好几件T-Shirt，又是满载而归！
今天的晚饭是云南野山菌火锅，味道好极了，到云南一定要尝一尝！
5月4日，星期六，小阵雨 丽江黑龙潭、树河古城、白龙潭、于涌
今天我们6点半就起来了，要去古城大研镇里拍照片。本以为我们算起得早的，好家伙，每个拍照的地方都架满了相机，想照一张没有人的风景真是难！
天很快就大亮了，我们步行来到了黑龙潭公园。黑龙潭位于丽江城东北象山脚下，入公园后便是一潭碧水，清澈见底，倒映着玉龙雪山，景色十分优美。象山半山腰上有一个“东巴文化研究所”，我们有些好奇，就走了进去。院子里面有几个小东巴正在切磋功课，我唐突地问：“能不能用东巴象形文字写出我们的名字”？回答是肯定的，小东巴在纸上写下了我们的名字。后来了解到，东巴的象形文字远没有汉字那么丰富，像描写比较抽象一些的文字，就无法用象形文字表示。我的名字，就没有相应的象形文字，只是用相同发音的象形文字代替。尹莉和我决定让声子把我们的名字在写到T-Shirt上去，反正是象形文字，装饰性很强，别人也不认得写的是什么。
听朋友强烈推荐，说离丽江县城不远有一处名叫“树河古城”的所在，还保留着古城风貌，先前被称为“东方威尼斯”。我在旅行手册上并未看到对树河古城的介绍，但是去去无妨。乘坐出租车20分钟，就来到了树河古城。其实这里叫“树河村”，与丽江大研镇相同的是玉龙雪山的水也从这里流过，在这里居住的都是纳西族人；与大研镇不同的是，这里的房屋比较古旧，不象大研镇里的房屋都已经经过了装饰。而且这里的游客并不多，很安静，做生意的人家也不多，甚至想找一个饭馆都不容易。
尹莉和我突然发现了一个还算有味道的卖纪念品的小店，就走了进去。屋子房顶上悬挂了一个旧窗棂作为装饰，着实吸引了我们的注意力，我们和店老板聊了起来。开店的是一个24岁的女孩，很健谈，没聊几句，就邀请我们去她家做客，说她妈妈在家里可以招待我们午饭，于是我们一同前往她家。同去的还有两个快乐的小姑娘，十二、三岁，我们没问，她们俩就自报家门。原来她们是丽江孤儿院的学生，上小学6年级，开店的女孩叫李云风，是她们的英语老师。小姑娘们一点也不害羞，直截了当地说：“我们是孤儿，我们孤儿院里有好多的孤儿…”原本以为孤儿们心灵上会留下阴影，结果她们的坦诚反倒使我不知所措。
到了小李家，她妈妈不在家，她一看就不干家务，连鸡蛋都不知道放在哪里。小李告诉我们，因为村里有一家人结婚，在办喜事，她妈妈过去帮忙了，她还提议我们也可以参加婚礼，只要交20块钱的份子钱就可以了。我们很兴奋，运气真好，还能见识一下纳西人的婚礼，于是欣然前往。院子里面坐满了人，新娘新郎正忙着给大伙敬酒、点烟。纳西人很重视婚礼的排场，婚宴是一定要摆的，在自家院子里，摆上十几、二十桌，全村的人都来参加。参加婚礼的人除了要备20块钱的礼金外，还需准备一些礼品，传统的礼品是一盘大米和红糖，时髦的年轻人送什么的都有。
我们站在院子门口等了一会，因为人太多，没有座位，需要等这拨人吃完了以后，我们才能再入席。怕等的时间太长，我们礼貌的告辞了，决定回到丽江吃中饭。小李临别时一直在嘱咐我们说，她的小店还没有起名字，想让我们出出注意，尹莉提议叫“古窗”，小李说想叫“又见炊烟”，我更喜欢“古窗”，又见炊烟有点像饭馆的名字。
打车回到丽江后的另一项重要的任务是需要购买明天到大理的长途车票。买了票，天上下起了毛毛细雨，我们走过一处叫做白龙潭的地方，突然听到了阵阵悠扬的纳西古乐的声音，于是不由自主地走了进去。进门就见到一个大水潭，这就是“白龙潭”，水潭的一侧搭建了一个舞台，十来个乐师正在那里演奏纳西古乐，舞台后面就是丽江著名的狮子山。环水潭有茶座，还有茶室，非常古朴典雅。叫了两杯茶，我们落座倾听纳西古乐，喝茶的人不多，很清静。
这几天，我看到了太多美好的东西，我简直无法用言语来表达我的感受，但此时此刻，我有一种冲动，一种弹琴的冲动。我走上了舞台，对谈琵琶的女孩说：“我也会弹琵琶，可以让我试试你的琴吗？”她欣然应允，于是我谈琵琶，她改弹古筝。她的琴是自制的，做工简单，无法作为独奏乐器，指法和品位都比现代琵琶简单得多。纳西古乐已经有着数百年的历史，悠扬、舒缓，不靠个人的弹奏技巧取胜，而是靠整个乐队的集体配合。古乐演奏者都是来自丽江当地各个村子的农民，在闲暇时间进行排练演奏，是一种自娱自乐的活动，不象我们现在的乐器已经发展演化得相当复杂，指法也花样翻新，表演性也增强了许多。我们合奏了几首纳西古乐，我和这个弹琴的女孩已经很熟了，还互相切磋了一下指法和心得。从小到大，演出参加了无数次，但是在这样的环境里弹琴还是第一次。蒙蒙细雨使丽江显得别有风致，舞台前面的一潭净水有鱼儿缓缓游着，悠远的琴声，苍翠的松柏，我不禁想到“人生至此夫复何求？！”
走下舞台，兴致依然。一位男士上前搭讪，一问才知道，他是这里的老板，叫于涌。刚才看到我在舞台上演奏，很是好奇，所以过来聊聊天。他是台湾人，几年前到丽江来投资，租下了白龙潭这块地方，现在正准备在狮子山上建立一个“丽江民俗旧器私立博物馆”。于涌有一条小狗，圆滚滚的，黑色的毛，异常好动，我们被小狗的活泼可爱所吸引，问他：“这是什么狗啊？”“藏獒”，他的回答吓了我们一跳，难道这么可爱的小狗竟然是大名鼎鼎的藏獒不成？这条小藏獒才一个月，名叫“小熊”。据于涌说藏獒半年就可以长成，那时他就不是这样一个小东西了，就该…他是打算用小熊看守博物馆的，这可比雇一个保安管用多了！
天色渐晚，我们又来到了声子的店里，让他在T-Shirt上写上了我们的象形文字的名字。此时的我们已经在大研镇里很熟了，每一条街道都走了好几次了，连饭馆的小妹都认识我们了。
闲逛时，一家挂满了“中国结”的商店又吸引了我们。进去后发现，这里不光卖中国结，还有好多小装饰品，玉的、琉璃的、石头的、玻璃的、珠子的…有项链、手镯，还有手机链等等。店老板长着大胡子，突然想起昨天在声子家，他们谈论一个叫“胡哥”的人，说他家有很多好看的石头，于是我就问：“你是叫胡哥吗？”他诧异地回答：“我姓王，我的外号叫大胡子”，看来我认错人了。 “大胡子”是丽江第一家卖中国结的，当然现在已经有不少卖中国结的店了，但是他店里的东西做工最好，价钱最低，当然生意也最红火。我们在大胡子的店里一面挑选手镯和项链，一面帮着他维持秩序，店里的人太多了！当我们从大胡子的店里出来的时候，腕子上已经带了一大串手镯，就象80年代卖走私表的表贩子一样。
这是我们在丽江的最后一个夜晚，我们很珍惜，于是溜达到很晚才回到和先生家，心中不免有点淡淡的惆怅。
旅行小贴士：
1、李云凤13013384155， pp78729@china.com.
2、于涌，丽江民俗旧器私立博物馆馆长地址：丽江大研古城白马龙潭寺电话：0888-5188098
3、“大胡子”卖中国结的店在丽江古城东大街
5月5日，星期日，晴 丽江、大理
这是在丽江的最后半天了，我们去大理的车票是下午两点钟的。再次来到了大研镇，走到了四方街。我们慢慢地走，用眼睛贪婪地环顾四周，好像要尽可能多的把丽江记录下来。
不知不觉地，又来到了昨晚大胡子的卖小首饰的商店。大胡子正在店里忙活，我们又挑选了一些小玩意准备带回去。看到我们恋恋不舍的样子，大胡子一个劲地嘱咐：“下次再来别忘了来看我呦！”路上又碰到了声子，可是这回没有时间在去他的店里聊天了，他正和太太在买菜；酒吧的小妹见到我就上来热情拥抱，说到：“再来丽江还到我家来吃饭!”茶叶店的老板和伙计们正在店里准备着，上午生意不多，他们就把每一个存放茶叶的罐子都擦得干干净净；离开和先生家的时候，他邀我们吃了他家自制的汤圆，香香甜甜的。他说：“下次你们再来还住我家吧，有朋友来也可以到我家来住！”和先生一直送我们出门，迎面碰上一个小伙子，和先生对他说：“这就是我跟你说过的那两个爱玩的北京女孩儿！”原来小伙子也是北京的，他竟然已经在丽江住了一个月了！拖着箱子向车站走，阳光慵懒地照在我们身上，好舒服！又路过白龙潭，伙计在门口认出了我们，说：“于老板在里面，你们进来坐！”我们向里面望了望,“下次吧”。
登上了开往大理的长途车，可是我却把记忆留在了丽江。客栈老板和先生、画T-Shirt的声子、司机小刘、树河村的小李、卖中国结的大胡子、开博物馆的于涌，快乐的孤儿院的女孩，热情的酒吧小妹，童心未泯的织布老妈妈…还有玉龙雪山、鸡豆凉粉、晶莹剔透的樱桃、四方街的石板路…一切都那么清楚地浮现在眼前。
我问尹莉：“还想来丽江吗？”“当然”。 “什么时候？”“听你的！”
在车上我睡着了，一觉醒来已经快到大理了。我们订的酒店是“大理宾馆”，在大理古城里面，距离大理县城还有20分钟的车程。到达酒店的时候，已经快6点了。大理古城虽然比丽江古城要有名，但是因为没有水，显得比丽江缺少灵气。古城里最有名的街道就得说是“洋人街”了，这里整条街道都是工艺品商店、酒吧和好多老外。
被音乐声所吸引，尹莉和我走进了一家卖CD的小店。这里的老板一定很有品位，陈列的CD张张经典，有很多是在北京都很难买到的，我们挑选了两张Andrea Bocelli的CD（当我在写这篇游记的时候，听的就是其中一张）。
天色渐晚，进了一家具有西藏风格的酒吧用晚餐，这里的老板一定是多次游历西藏，而且是个西藏的狂热崇拜者。酒吧里充斥着浓郁的西藏气息（这里提供酥油茶，所以无论是精神上、还是肉体上，都可以感受到西藏气息），唐卡、转经筒、哈达、木图腾，还有介绍西藏风情的书籍，最令我们惊叹的是老板自己在西藏拍的照片，张张精彩！
旅行小贴士：
1、丛丽江到大理的长途车很多，每一小时发一次车，建议乘坐高速大巴，车况很好，最差是金龙，还有大宇、奔驰、沃尔沃，50多块钱。从丽江到大理大约需要3个半小时的车程，也可乘飞机。
2、到大理要住在大理古城，晚上浏览古城风貌。
大理宾馆地址：大理古城复兴路277号，电话：0872-2670386，传真：0872-2670551。大理宾馆是二星级，五一旺季价格是180/天，淡季60-80/天就可以拿下。
3、如果住在大理古城要去大理市区，出租车相对较少，可以让酒店帮忙预定，价格是统一的，一般是单程30元。
4、如果还想游览大理的苍山、洱海，可以参加“大理一日游”，到大理各旅行社都可以报名，很方便。
5月6日，星期一，晴 大理、昆明、北京
由于要从大理市区的长途车站乘坐8点钟的长途车前往昆明，我们7点钟就从酒店出发了。从大理到昆明350公里，大约5小时的车程。
坐长途车，到昆明。下午2点的飞机，又飞回了北京，回家了！
我们的香格里拉之旅终于结束了，这次旅行使我感慨颇多，于是提笔记下了旅途中的点点滴滴。其实心中的感受有时是用言语很难形容的，每当想起丽江、中甸、泸沽湖、大理，我心里都会荡漾起轻轻的涟漪。
其实人生也是在游历，但时间久了，一切就会像退色的老照片一样会淡忘，于是我记录下了这短暂而美好的时光，期待着在若干年后读起自己的文字，还能拥有那份兴奋与感动。
我还计划着下次再来游云南，路线是丽江-腾冲-瑞丽，愿意与我同游吗？
彭怡Penny Peng
2002年6月2日完稿
2002年6月8日整理
Author: 00,597,531
