Time: 4 Jan 20 - May 4 JCP 15 days
D1 (4 Yue 20, clear): Japan: Beijing → Kunming night: Kunming → Lijiang long-distance car from last year's 11 I began to design this line of Yunnan Tour this year, finally have time to be realized, because we break the marriage .
13:40 noon (Aircraft delayed 1 hour) aircraft took off from Beijing Capital Airport, flight 3 hours and 10 minutes 16:50 pm to Kunming Wujiaba International Airport. Airline tickets (5.5 fold) 860 yuan / person. To Kunming, the knowledge of the Guangzhou and online Mix david dong couple contacts know that they have been again later today to Kunming to fly to Lijiang from Kunming, Lijiang, see our appointment. A taxi to South kiln terminal, buy evening 20:00 to Lijiang, the long-distance sleeper ticket 121.5 yuan / person. BAO Cun Station 5 yuan / bag, a taxi driver introduced us to the bus terminal near the bridge noodle eaten jixin garden, three kinds of rice noodle points 20,40,80, we believe that too expensive, only the points, the most expensive 20 yuan / people (with dance performances, received 10% service charge, noodle taste in general, as the coachman had not seen dance.) dinner after a taxi back to the South kiln station, take luggage on the train. The last row of upper berth, 8:00 p.m. until 8:30 p.m. start the car. Since I have stretched tall stature is not allowed, no way to endure it, stopping numerous times at night, the driver should have supper.
D2 (4 21, clear): Day: Lijiang night: next morning, drive to the Lijiang Lijiang Banwo far in the distance of the car to the blue skies of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, so we have a night of bumps of the pain left my back. 8:30 am arrive in Lijiang. (Long-distance passenger transportation center, Lijiang has two long-distance station, a station is "Red Sun Square Station" and the other station is "long-distance station, central station", where gates farther away from the Old Town of Lijiang, a taxi or bus to the ancient city of St. mouth, Lijiang where the taxi is not going to play within the table, are 6 yuan.)
Call the owner of the garden houses Inn Zhao Lei, a moment he would come to meet us. Garden houses Inn Address: Guangyi Street, Lane 54, Guang-bi (Muwang Fu and passenger transport centers or Sen Long Hotel, between a few minutes walk or to). Tel :0888-5124414, 5162017,13988870508. There are solar energy and water heaters supply hot water to keep 24-hour bath, bathroom facilities and clean white sheets. Garden Inn is the key to protect residential dwellings, small courtyard, planted with flowers and trees, flowers summary report, sitting in the small courtyard in the very comfortable, accommodation fee is 25 yuan / person / bed. But the only disadvantage is that here, far from the city, went to Square Street takes about 15 minutes. From here, close to the Drum Tower Muwang Fu and Wan, Mu Wangfu we did not go in, is a post-built cultural attractions, and tickets for 30 yuan is too expensive.
We live in Garden Inn next to a residential cul-de went to 10000 Drum Tower, Zhao bosses say no Denglou may not buy a ticket, but we spent 15 yuan per person boarded the eternal building (and later he heard a student card can be free of charge, we have a hammer to regret his departure from Beijing, specially by the two student cards, student cards, but later helped us save a lot of silver.). Drum Tower in the 10000 can be overlooking the ancient city of Lijiang, Yulong Snow Mountain and overlooking the whole picture. 10000 Drum Tower, under the ancient city that we walked along the highway at the entrance, a distance saw the symbol of the ancient city of Lijiang Dayan - large water tankers, marching along the waterways in Lijiang streaky stone of stone-paved road into the ancient city of great research. City more beautiful than I imagined, I have been to Zhouzhuang Water Village is also a small bridge others water, but the absolute Mo Fabi Zhouzhuang and the Old Town of Lijiang. Today, cloudless, the weather was very good, walking in the ancient city of stone on the road, ears Yunnan Ethnic music, far may also saw the Yulong Snow Mountain. In the ancient wandering, walked Square Street bar street found a place to sit down and eat linshui to Lijiang after the first meal, chicken bean jelly beans, Lijiang Baba, fried Erkuai, casserole of rice, a total of 41 yuan. Chicken bean jelly beans taste I like, so that later in Lijiang almost every meal I point it. Enjoy the small bridges people, eaten enough after the break after lunch, we walk out of the ancient city, to the mouth not far from the city shopping center, traveled to 100 letters Wenfeng Temple (13:30 open, 16:00 return ) fare is 3 yuan / person, Wenfeng Temple tickets 15 yuan / person no student tickets. There are lamas for your explanation, I see Lama recommend 130 yuan a large incense of our Guide are concerned there is no necessary.
Returned it after a bath, Mu Wangfu direction along the ancient city, and Guangzhou david dong couple arranged to meet 19 o'clock in the Square Street stone bridge. Met eaten after a meal (40 yuan / double), they listen to old Mr. Xuan Ke under the auspices of Naxi ancient music, we continue visiting the ancient city of Lijiang in the night, his wife began a frenzied shopping, Bunun bell (male and female 75), root carving, hieroglyphs Wall Picture, etc.. The hand-drawn map of Lijiang ancient city must buy, it has a collectible value 6 yuan / Zhang. To the Northwest Yunnan Insider BBS Moderator Naxi Ren Qiu Lin I called on the phone, did not think he remembered me, and is willing to meet me. We sarasara bar to meet his wife happened to Guangzhou, david dong pass on listening to Naxi ancient music to sit down to chat with. Qiu Lin is an enthusiastic tour guide, since April 22 that his team has already booked his intention to re-contact vehicles to take us four individuals to participate in Northwest Yunnan on the 11th of his tour, but contacted without success. We both finally to change his plan tomorrow, and davide dong first couple to Lugu Lake, because of their international youth hostels in Lijiang BBS has found the return journey back to Lugu Lake, price, and ride the bus about 50 yuan / person (bus 57 yuan / person), but one 17 of the CMB. Qiu Lin's group is also starting tomorrow, to Lugu Lake, we plan to come back from the lake and then go to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (although Qiu Lin said that if, after reading Meili Snow Mountain, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain do not look worth mentioning, but I am worried that if they do not Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, in case Meili Snow Mountain can not see the words on the tragic,).
Qiu Lin who is really a good self-tour guide, he gave us a lot of recommendations after the trip, although he should tour starting tomorrow morning, but still insisted on sending us back to the inn, because he said we lived from the ancient city back to the inn's on the road unsafe, there are drug addicts who ask for money. We Qiu Lin strangers, only one side on the right today, we are so concerned about me and his wife were deeply moved. Since our trip has changed, so often encountered on the road after Qiu Lin, and become friends.
D3 (4 22, clear): Day: Lijiang → Lugu Lake on the road late: Lugu Lake Rigby Island, early morning wake up 6 o'clock check-out, few people take advantage of the early morning and photographed a few pictures of the ancient city of Lijiang, photography-loving friends to Lijiang Old Town of Lijiang in the morning must not be let go. To the international youth hostels, and David dong convergence to large tankers at looking after the driver Chef Wang. David dong package than our larger (60L), both men's dress more professional than our waterproof pants, hiking shoes, and later learned they are also chat married last year, out of honeymoon, the equipment is new home of .
7:45 We start from Lijiang to Lugu Lake, Chef Wang's car was a 17 in Pakistan car, four of us can sit comfortably, and tired, can stand up. Master Wang Xing Wang called North Korea, the telephone 13,988,816,550, is a real Mosuo who went to school in Kunming, culture, and people are very good, along the way and talk with us, give us the lake, the "walking marriage" inside, but the He said he has not gone through marriage.
Lugu Lake is not very difficult way to go, most of them paved with asphalt, and also is a gravel road in some places, but the road dust larger motion sickness of a friend you had better worry, because an average of one every minute is necessary to bend Po . Car climbed over countless mountains and along the way we talked and laughed, and, where appropriate parking camera, 4 hours later, at around 11:45 noon we arrived Ninglang Xian, where lunch (12 RMB / double), we invite King Master and we dine together, but he persisted in his refusal, and his driver friends to eat. As the Chef Wang's grandfather passed away last night, so he will not be able to take us directly to the lake Rigby Island, he gave him we have arranged for a friend, had specifically let us sit in front of the location, he and together we car, halfway down the car. Along the way he and I Liaolehenduo to tell me a lot of attention to the Lugu Lake issues and to help us arrange Rigby Island residence, contacted Rigby Island Young island main then we live in his house. Chef Wang were nice, we went to the Rigby Island, he was still worried us, call us asking if we found the Young island main. To leave the hustle and bustle of the city, beautiful scenery along the way so I can not self-sustaining, wasting a lot of photography with, so Ms. Yu Meili Snow Mountain remind me to stay for more photography with relented. Lugu Lake tickets are 40 yuan / person, but Wang said the master chef and the driver is good, if help us free riders, each of us to master the driver 20 yuan, the results of the success of free riders, but also saving 40 ocean.
Car climbed over the last hill we saw a lake, four of us all excited, looking from above Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake is like a piece of jade in the mountains, so beautiful! About 16:00 or so of our car reached the destination - Lugu Lake, Yang island main car at the roadside waiting for us has been a long time, and we sat Yang island main car 10 minutes into a neighborhood on the island grid. Rigby Island, stretching from the lake is an island, the island only a few families, we lived in Young island main house is located in the front of the island, the tourists on the island is only four of us, free men can be imagined . Young island main's sister Mary Albee received us (Tel :088-5881050), Yang island main and we chatted for a while went to his days Asha home. Young island main home is a real Mosuo people, where people are still honest, sincere, business-oriented climate is not heavy, we took out a door at home than in the best Zan Ma-harrow, fruits, wines brewed in咣pendant entertain us. Here as the standard in residential accommodation: 10 yuan / person, dinner: 15 yuan / person, no one arbitrary charges, because if complaints from tourists, his family would be eligible for the permanent abolition of tourist reception. Because this tour has not yet fully developed, so where accommodation is limited, not a bath, there is no formal toilet. But Lake wash basin, laundry situation, I think you must be very memorable tried. Island main ancestral house of wood-leng ovary more than 200 years of history, and did not use a nail, but still solid. The threshold of the house is very special with fifty to sixty centimeters high, but the door is not high, tall high-Mix you had better take notice. Island main domesticated a number of poultry, chickens, pigs, dogs, horses, I have 11 video tapes of their intake at home for the elderly is also good pictures taken with us. Night we tasted the prestigious "Zhu Biaorou," Zhu Biaorou is so well-known productions: to kill a big plump pigs, the organs and bones removed, placed in a large number of pepper, salt, and then stitched up the status quo ante the pig, looking for a well ventilated place to the one in 2035 - was done out of mummy, no one can bite mummy was moving, so speculation must first be placed before the water bubble, bubble to the not so hard of a chance to fried or broiled . Each of us just try a 12, a little bacon flavor, but too hard, too tired, finally, no one moved. "Zhu Biaorou" But Mosuo people entertain guests the best food, listen to Mary talk about their more than only the death of the Chinese New Year or the elderly when it is eaten. We are sorry to bite off the rest, but fortunately the dog than the Ma family helped us a great favor, ladies and eat the gave it. Since then, we see the meat for every meal of the mind will be conditioned reflex, "Zhu Biaorou." Eaten dinner, we walk around Rigby Island, take a lot of the island's landscape photographs, sunset under the Rigby Island is too beautiful.
Qiu Lin I called to the phone, knew that he lived near us, "Tashi home", and invited us to busy busy. 10 few minutes walk along the lake to "Tashi home", Tashi is very famous on the Internet at home, admiring the backpackers more, Tashi is a very handsome young man, he had seen world wide, have helped too much television camera Lugu Lake Ministry of the series, very talkative, he gave us a foot Lugu Lake, Inagi Aden and other places a lot of experience, finally, I posed for pictures and Tashi. Qiu Lin Today, some drink, and more than 40 degrees咣pendant countless cups dry wine. Tashi and his family folk music sing very good, I think flavored than those of popular singers to sing more. Back at home than Mary, we have an appointment tomorrow, and Mary help me more than two horses, we plan to Rigby Island, the village on foot to the mouth, and then sit back to Zhu Caochuan Lugu Lake to wear the village fell into the water - again Qiu Lin piracy trip tomorrow, and our luggage entrusted Qiu Lin pulled the car fell into the village to help us. (More than Mary's A Note to our feeling not so good, we put our luggage entrusted to him by Rigby Island, fell into the water pulled village, he wants us to 40 money, we feel that is too expensive, Qiu Lin later looked for help.)
D4 (4 23, Partly Cloudy): Day: Walking the lake late: get up at 6:00 the morning the village fell into the lake, using lake water, wash face, brush your teeth, eat a bit casually bring their own dry food, climbed inside Georgia Island, the highest point to watch the sunrise, but the fact that some cloudy, sunrise results are not satisfactory, but the lights photography into. 9:00 or so four of us embarked on the village to the mouth, we rented two horses 40 yuan / piece, mainly because my wife and David dong wife to ride, I have almost no riding, I mainly want a warm-up for the Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot, and photography, photography is easy. Lugu Lake to experience the beauty of not less than a foot, and all the way along the lake walking and looking, good weather, beautiful scenery plus I murdered a lot of film (washed out, people say the most beautiful lake scenery). Lugu Lake, the color of water varies with the weather, clouds for a long time, water the color of dark blue, cloud came from a water on was blue. Lugu lake 2680 meters above sea level, surrounded by mountains, walking in the mountain in terms Lugu Lake, more like a huge emerald. Qiu Lin has been with the team behind us. Around 12:30 we reached the mouth around the village, the village has been part of Sichuan Province mouth. 3 and a half hours on foot, Qiu Lin said that we walked almost 10 kilometers, Qiu Lin team, each person riding a horse, but I do not ride do not feel very tired, my foot and give us skill to Qiu Lin Qian Ma had repeatedly praised the eldest sister of Moso.
In the mouth the village lunch 25 yuan / double, 14:30 we sit Zhucao Chuan Qiu Lin's team fell into the water to go through the village of Lugu Lake, shipping costs 40 yuan / person. As the afternoon winds and waves greater insecurity by Zhu Caochuan, we sat Zhucao Chuan is an imitation of the ship, of course, be drawn manually, and the lake is not permitted inside the ship's OK with the engine. In the absence of contamination of the lake water is clear, calm lake when the visibility is up to a few meters, water and specialty silver fish, silver fish is very precious, in order to prevent over-fishing, is also the deadline to implement the policy of the closed lake fishing, so we have not tasted whitebait. Our ship of men and women to draw from the six Mosuo and paddled out to the village fell into the water to more than two hours, due to unpredictable weather, the lake surface, and so this time we are on the lake has experienced sunny days, overcast, rain, storms and other climate change. Moso is not the time for our men and women singing "Tibetan Plateau" and some local folk songs.
About 16:30 pm in the afternoon, our boat arrived in the village fell into the water. Fell into the water village is the lake of the Tourism Development Zone in Rigby Island, here and there not the same, the lake covered with a number of so-called "Mosuo Manor", "daughter of country style garden" sort of resort and tourist merchandise stores, mainly receiving tour groups of tourists, but there was a lack of Rigby Island, the kind of quiet, the original sense of strong business atmosphere. We checked into a company called "Moso matrilineal Park" resorts, but fortunately, there are showers (electric water heater, hot water is limited), and quickly took a bath. Accommodation here is not expensive 15 yuan / person, very clean, with TV. To eat dinner in the resort can also go outside to eat, but very few outside the restaurant, only a few bars. We went outside, leisure walk along the lake and found a place to eat. Here are more Sichuanese, so Sichuan is relatively common, we have tasted the lake where the carp, crucian carp, because we have not tasted the whitebait season, less than a dinner 30 yuan / double, eating dinner when I went out to buy a bottle of Ma Su-mile liquor 12 yuan / bottle, which is said Mosuo people's beer, alcohol degree is only 10 ℃, each of us a cup of taste, texture has become.
After dinner we went to the famous lake-line tea-drinking Mix think they strongly recommended Yunnan arabica coffee (10 yuan / cup), is now grinding, and taste good. Coffee tea room, look at a few lakes thought Big Ben Mix travels, varied, Chinese, foreign languages has everything, but I will read all these travels is not Big Ben may not be enough time for a few days. Here we saw the boss Tang Bin, and chatted with him a chat, because bar a lot of people, the boss went to take care of business for a while, and he let us into his study to look around. The original bar next to the back room is a study, there are many books can easily see, the wall hung pictures of people of many scenic lake. The distinctive bar, there should be a good time to take a ride. We did not go to Moso people Guozhuang party (10 yuan / person), I heard no meaning, then people who read the group Qiu Lin also said that there is no meaning, is very commercialized, people who really want to take the marriage is purely a dream.
From the bar come out, we found that the lake shore up a lot of barbecue shack, anyway time is early, we have casually looked for a tasted grilled carp (1 yuan / string), taste in general, very late before we go back to sleep.
D5 (4 Yue 24 Nichijo): Day: → Lijiang, Lugu Lake on the road late: Lijiang, Lugu Lake River is the morning for at least the time, but also a good time to photography. As we sleep the past few days late starting as early are more tired, so I am the only morning to watch the sunrise together. Support a good tripod I was in the lake, after waiting about 6:45 or so, the sun came out, I seize the opportunity and captured the most beautiful lake sunrise. Photo washing came out, everyone said that is more classic. Eating breakfast (5 yuan / person), we Zuoju Hui Ninglang. Back to Lijiang, Lugu Lake Ninglang are generally required to transfer, it is recommended not sat down to the bus terminal Ninglang car, because many people would be uncomfortable sitting, or so help you contact the owner of Inn look in the morning the lake to Ninglang the car a lot. We are the day before so that the tavern owner to help us in touch with a car to go Ninglang 20 yuan / person is very empty Gold Cup car, sitting very comfortable. I let the driver instructors in the observation deck to us pause, the driver is very warm in our parking and so on for 20 minutes.
Go to Lugu Lake, viewing platform parking must let the driver wait for you master photography, panoramic viewing platform that overlooks the lake the best place, where do not mean film. Master said that the driver to listen to the viewing platform to see the best panoramic lake time is morning and evening, we went to about 9:00 or so, when is the best time to read the lake here, I think everyone will be heartfelt laments more than 200 kilometers over the mountains to see her "value!." 8:30 departure from the village fell into the water At noon, 11:00 to Daning Lang, bought a ticket at 12:30 back to Lijiang 26 per / person. Ninglang back to Lijiang, the car every half hour intervals, the latest class is at 15:00. We had lunch 12 yuan / double, about 16:30 in the afternoon arrived around Lijiang.
International Youth Hostel next to an inn called the River Hostel stay there, but also a small garden-style homes, 20 yuan / person, there are washing machines, just a few days of our dirty clothes washed. We went to eat dinner Dashiqiao Lijiang, the most famous soybean face, but face limited supply of soybeans, it has long been sold out, due to relatively prime these days, so we eat a dinner in Lijiang, 35 yuan / double. Tomorrow I and my wife plans to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, David dong his wife have been to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang ancient city where they want to stroll in the day, we go well the pull-David dong couple to the Yulong Snow Mountain of the van driver pulled tomorrow we go to the master Tang Yulong Snow Mountain, International Youth Hostel and then made a Posts looking for someone counterparts, share a low fare. Mix at a pair of Guangxi, and are willing to contact me and we went together to the Yulong Snow Mountain, we have an appointment tomorrow morning to meet large stone bridge. Lijiang Old Town at night is a good time shopping, my wife, and David dong's wife, naturally can not let go.
D6 (4 Yue 25 Ri cloudy): Day: Jade Dragon Snow Mountain nights: where in the ancient city of Lijiang After breakfast, and Guangxi 2 Mix after that meeting, four of us sat Tang master's car to the Yulong Snow Mountain, Tang master car is a small cars van, since we are friends come to Guangzhou, so the fare is 60 yuan / day.
Yulong Snow Mountain's into the mountains tickets 40 yuan / person, since we are out the door by the two student identity card, half-price tickets, but the city maintenance collected here, each 20 yuan, students do not have half-price, another vehicle into the mountains toll 5 yuan also you to dig. Master Tang Yulong Snow Mountain tours that morning many people, so let us first go to Maoniuping, Maoniuping is the top of the hill, a meadow, here is a good place to Lex Yulong Snow Mountain. There is horseback riding and sitting on the MAONIUPING two kinds of rope, we have chosen is riding 63 yuan / person, horse riding is also more formal, according to numbers line up, each horse has a groom. Riding up the mountain through the virgin forest of about more than one hours went to the top of the hill. By the end of April, the grass has been green Maoniuping Peak, but the length is not high, the roadside rhododendron is not completely open, but yellow-green of the grass is still blooming with yellow and blue flowers, like the little bit of the stars . The MAONIUPING on me and my wife rented a two national costume photo (5 yuan / body). As today is cloudy, Yulong Snow Mountain's main peak has been blocked clouds do not see snow-capped mountains picture. There are a number of Tibetan MAONIUPING barbecue shed, Tibetan women singing the Tibetan Plateau, to solicit business. We also sit down to personal stereo to try grilled chicken yak (1 yuan / string), yak milk (3 yuan / cup) and butter tea (3 yuan / cup). Riding down the mountain came to baishuihe, baishuihe clear and bright and clean water, cold and biting, as it is the Yulong Snow Mountain snow after the snow melts, water purity, without being polluted. Baishuihe with white pebbles for the end of water on it, hence the name. Baishuihe downstream is black r., because underwater pebbles are mostly black, water on it, water the color of the corresponding black, hence the name black r.. Due to time reasons, we did not go black r.. Baishuihe Department tour visitors a lot of only one restaurant nearby, we saw many people, food prices are also extremely expensive, so it does not at this dinner, according to a few photos, let the Tang master pull rope we went to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain big .
Yulong Snow Mountain cableway ticket office at noon on almost no one, big ropeway fare 110 per / person (round trip). To large office needs to take the first cableway ride buses, bus free of charge. Ropeway at many tour groups, those who rent down jacket bought oxygen tank, we feel that is not necessary. Guangxi lady Mix is really powerful, wearing only a long-sleeved cotton shirt on the last snow-capped mountains, and she say no cold. By cableway 3356M above sea level at more than 20 minutes on the mountain has an elevation of 4506M's Peak, in the middle although the very short run time, but we are experiencing a sense of the four seasons, a strong seasonal variation, landscape conversion, so we are more than excited, glaciers, snow - soon at hand.
Yulong Snow Mountain is called the fan steep peak, elevation 5596M, which is the world's lowest latitude in the northern hemisphere, the highest mountain above sea level. Peaks arranged in 13 snow-capped mountains from north to south, these 13 peaks, Peaks snow is not based, like a row of Yuzhu Site Atlas, snow-capped mountains in the backdrop of the azure canopy, like a jade dragon flying in the volley, it said the Yulong Snow Mountain . Yulong Snow Mountain has remained a virgin peak, there were 17 domestic and foreign mountaineering expedition to climb failed. Although the two of us Beijingers, the snow had been accustomed to seeing is not strange, but so close contact with snow-capped mountains is the first time. From an altitude of 4506M Department, there are wooden plank road to climb up to the 4680M Department, but for a few days ago because we just did some snow, snow-capped mountains on the snow is very thick, wooden Plank Road also has snow, so Plank Road Department has posted armed guards to prevent the , I have some regret that out of previously promised himself and his colleagues will climb 4680M. Snow Mountain is not a cold, but strong winds, Huang's wife, or to rent a piece down jacket, we have four bodies are good, no one mountain sickness occurs only in the climbing a little bit of shortness of breath. As the weather clouds large, the main peak is still not fully see, but the snow-capped mountains on the clouds and unpredictable, while clouds and some proliferation, while also locking the first peak. Just when we are going down, we found that peak clouds gradually disperse, fan steep peak near at hand, when the hearts of a strong sense of shock arises spontaneously, snow-capped mountains themselves have been deeply impressed by the majesty and beauty. We have snow on the crazy pictures, so that the murder of all the finished film camera only think of it this is our last roll of film to carry. When the people were waiting to board down the mountain cableways are more, due to the room where the air is not good, my wife some mountains to reflect, I immediately let her with the two "Rhodiola", out of the room she immediately had all right.
After 15:40 pm or so has been down, we lose time to the jade water village, tickets 15 yuan / person, no student tickets, some expensive, but there are guides for you to explain. When we went to have little visitors, tour guides only took four of us. Jade water village is a beautiful little cottage, the most famous landscape is Shenlong 3 Dieshui, in fact, clear water flows from top to bottom three Bazi form similar to the waterfall scenery. Yulong Snow Mountain where water is melting snow through rock filtered through a spring flows out very clear, tour guides said that the ancient city of Lijiang Black Dragon Pool and the water outflow from here. Less than an hour on the tour after this little cottage, small cottage is indeed beautiful, In addition, we also heard in the cottage where a free Naxi ancient music.
17:30 Don pulled our master today's final in one place - beam Kawamura, also known as Longquan Temple. Here is a more old villages, the quaint villages and in no way tarnished by the business. It is also a similar Dayan Old Town Square Street town square, also known as beam River Square Street, is said to go to the market days was quite a crowd, a former fur trading Lijiang distributing land. Here the road is also a green stone of stone-paved road, we went to River Square Street when the beam is re-laying road surface, feel for, the Old Town Square Street does have a number of beam replica of the river, I believe that in the near future there must be a second Old Town of Lijiang. Along the waterways upstream, and soon you will find the source of streams, "Jiuding Longtan," clear and transparent lake, day and night, springs, beam river were regarded as a, Shinsen, here is the Longquan Temple. Tickets 5 yuan per person, four of us to the porter's Aunt 10 money, not to get votes. When we went to, there have been no tourists, only four of us. Longquan Temple is small, half-hour tour enough, Longtan really beautiful scenery, in particular, almost dusk, even more quiet, deep. Beam ancient river so I'm Sticking with the original, due to fear of the Tang master waited too long, so we only visited the river in the beam about an hour. We come out already 18:30, but the Tang master said nothing remains, and we talked and laughed, soon brings us back to Lijiang at large waterwheel. Get off to pay off the fare, I feel a little embarrassed, and Tang master so that we are still on his behalf to a friend david dong Guangzhou wife to apologize, because they pull on the Yulong Snow Mountain that day, as he did not pull them to the final emergency Yu shuizhai . Tang master's simplicity and sincerity so that we touched, it is strongly recommended to Lijiang donkey who pack his car. Master Tang don dry full name, cell phone 13,988,875,072.
We originally planned, and David dong the morning his wife get up and go to 6:00 the morning to see the Yulong Snow Mountain Black Dragon Pool Park, the reflection and the Lei Yue Chi Guazai, as is said to 7:00 in order to move forward Heilongtan no fees Heilongtan tickets 20 yuan / person, but because of we have not myself, so today's the day David dong couples go, they went after Taihushangdang tickets expensive scenery also is not good, Heilongtan water dirty and did not see the reflection of snow-capped mountains, Lei Chi Guazi also vanished. They said to go there for all package tours who wave they wave. Afternoon, two had rented a bike to the beam Kawamura, resulting riding more than an hour, sounded several times, had not found, the result returned to the (beam River is not very far away from the city, but the road turn left, turn right hard to find). 7:00 pm david dong ago, we should first couple of Naxi ancient music to help us to buy tickets to the withdrawal of (we bought 30 dollars or pedestal), as we heard yesterday, Guangxi Mix said that they listen to, the Lost Horizon, said, he tomorrow to go out a few days, and today we have heard in the jade water village of Naxi ancient music for free. Because ancient music to buy tickets in advance, so many people were waiting for a refund, well back, perhaps a lot of people do not know Xuan Ke is not here today.
Today is our last day in Lijiang, we have four individuals to a large stone bridge near the waterfront shops Eating a meal, 31 yuan / double. Then began the final shopping, tomorrow we'll go on foot of the Tiger Leaping Gorge (david dong to us in advance to the bridge have bought a ticket, 12.5 yuan / person). Girls born love shopping, my wife and my wife can be said to david dong with similar interests, a shop in a store to stroll, so much so that few of us are scattered, and in the Lijiang Old Town at the entrance to a smoke shop, I actually bought in Beijing Zhongnanhai cigarettes, so I am a great surprise. Finally found them both, I saw that both men is a rewarding experience.
D7 (4 Yue 26 Ri Cloudy between the clear): Day: Tiger Leaping Gorge evening: Tiger Leaping Gorge HALFWAY Halfway GH
Good morning from the Old Town of Lijiang Lijiang at a taxi to the long-distance passenger transportation center of the car ride to the Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge 8:30 Town, Guangxi, two friends called me last night, hope to join our journey on foot Tiger Leaping Gorge, we of course welcome. Because it is a long car ride, so the Yangtze River Bay and Shek Kwu first town we have to see it. Around 10:30 in the morning to arrive around the town of Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge, bridge is no longer the town's police station to deposit packages in, but we found opposite the police station an international youth hostels, we have big pack there is an international youth hostels, 5 yuan / day / pack. Fancy tiger jumping and then chartered to the Gap Tina's Inn (90 million). We chartered a driver called Leslie, so Leslie gave us enough to drive cattle bar! Leslie Cheung Mobile: 13,988,728,084.
Tiger Leaping Gorge tickets 30 yuan / person, students half price, we have saved half of the spots after the student card you will find more and more advantages. Bridge to jump on the tiger while the road asphalt, but the road is very narrow, but there are lots of landslides. We arrived around 11:20 on the six tiger jumped. Tiger jump on people who are more, especially those who tours up and down canyons but also sedan chairs, in fact, the steps on the tiger jumped a very good way to go, when you walk slowly up something, there is no need for sedan chairs. As the flood season is yet to come, so the Jinsha River flow is not great.
Tiger Leaping Gorge, known as "the best in the world Gap." Jinsha River from the "Yangtze River First Beach" suddenly swerved flow of about 40 kilometers north, entered between the Yulong Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain, chuanshan cut rock, Pichu one of the world's deepest narrowest of the most dangerous of the Grand Canyon - Tiger Gap jump. Tiger Leaping Gorge from west to east down the river in turn are divided into the tiger jump tiger in the tiger jumping and dancing under the three sections of a total length of 18 km, gap (referring to the Peak to the river) was almost 4000 meters, 12 arranged in the gorge rapids scattered , the waves rolled Amoy, soul-stirring, the two sides peaks towering steep, thrilling Qi Jue. Tiger Leaping Gorge on the tiger jumped at the entrance, visitors must shun the stone steps down from the gravel road for about 15 minutes to close contact with the mighty Jinsha River water. Before reaching the mountain pass, the Jinsha River flows relatively flat, a tiger jumped into the last, immediately becomes a narrow river, combined with a larger drop, the river roaring down, can be described as magnificent. In the tiger jumped the Jinsha River at the entrance, there is a huge rock lying middle of the river rapids from the rock only 30 meters wide on both sides of the flow is not wearing off, Ocean Waves skies, whitecaps rolling, often relying on middle of a river rock legend Tiger jump on the other side, hence the name Tiger Leaping Gorge. Tiger Leaping Gorge bridge west of the town, belonging to Diqing Zhongdian County, east of a crossing large belong to Lijiang area. Lijiang highways pass these two places, as to go to Zhongdian, a highway bridge pass Zhongdian, and large compared with Haba snow-capped mountains along the barrier, you must turn the snow-capped mountains, and have a baishuitai only road leading to Zhongdian.
Walk the line a lot of Tiger Leaping Gorge, one from Lijiang by car to large tools, and then going back under the tiger jumped the Jinsha River upstream; second car from Zhongdian, Tiger Leaping Gorge bridge to the next town, and then along the gravel road along the river downstream ; third lane from the bridge to go walk to the Hetaoyuan Haba village, but also to continue exploration on foot, crossing the Haba snow-capped mountains to baishuitai. Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot is the most self-help travelers especially the "foreigners" of the beloved, and now somebody has to include one of China's top ten tourist routes on foot. There are two paths inside the Tiger Leaping Gorge to choose from, one is the so-called High Path, is a traditional backpackers path winding throughout all Road; the other one is the newly opened along the gravel road to go, also known as Low Path, better to go some, also a straight road, but the scenery a lot of poor, dirt lot, but also greatly reduces the pleasure of crossing on foot, but also the first Rolling Stone during the rainy season there is the possibility of landslides. Along the High Path through the Tiger Leaping Gorge Haba Snow Mountain and then crossing the physical exertion of this line is said to quite large, quite challenging. Our line is a combination of foot for more than three lines, and Mix the essence of the recommendation of its own alternative arrangements designed a line: from bridge chartered to jump on the tiger, tiger jumped on the tour and then to Tina's hotel in the gorge, the next in the tiger jump, fancy After the tiger jumped back Tina's, do not live directly Tina's half-way up the mountain to live Halfway Inn, the next morning to go to the High Path Haba trail bridge, and then traveled to Zhongdian, or chartered to baishuitai.我们这条线路属半程徒步虎跳峡，但却没有错过最美的景色，由于往桥头走哈巴小路下坡多，尤其28拐是下坡，所以体力消耗不大，是不很能走的驴子们的经典徒步路线，而且只用两天时间。
站在上虎跳的虎跳石边，身边江水激流翻滚，山谷回响起震耳欲聋的涛声，真可谓气势磅礴、震撼人心。但是真正的虎跳石并非此石，而是中虎跳的虎跳石。
虽然高原海拔高，但一百多级台阶对我们不算什么，从上虎跳上来，我们没有休息直接坐车去Tina's的中峡旅店。由上虎跳再往里走，道路就十分难走了，由于正在修路所以路上尘土飞扬，但沿路风景不错，不过听张师傅说贯穿上、中、下虎跳峡的盘山路7月份就要修好了。大约下午1：00我们到了Tina's的中峡旅店，我们的车一到，老板娘Tina就热情的出门迎接我们。我们六只饿狼赶紧点了饭菜，因为听老板Tina说马上就有一个团队上来。客栈的菜单是竹简制成的比较有特色，饭菜便宜得会让你对Tina更肃然起敬。 Tina的客栈墙壁上贴满了驴子们游中虎跳的照片、体会、游记，在等饭菜上来之前我们仔细的欣赏并和老板娘Tina合了影。刚刚吃过午饭，Tina说的那个团队就陆续来了，原来是邱林他们，一看那十几个人的样子就知道他们累得够跄，他们是早晨就从核桃园出发下中虎跳，走过一线天到中虎跳石，然后再爬上来的，邱林说他们用了5个多小时，并且还有一半人没有穿过一线天。
吃完饭2：15我们将包集中寄存在Tina's客栈，又和临桌吃饭的两男两女四个游友结伴下中虎跳。邱林提醒我们注意时间，这里八点钟左右天黑，因为我们和他们一样晚上要宿Halfway，从Tina's到Halfway还要爬两个小时左右的山路。我们十个人找了一个当地的村民当向导，本想到张老师家找张老师，但张老师家离Tina's还有一段路，结果我们还是在下山时碰到了张老师的爱人，她说张老师不在家，然后又说这条下中虎跳的路是他家自己修建的，我们说我们几个人回来后再去张老师家坐坐（后来也没有去，不好意思）。下中虎跳的路边坐着两个女孩儿，她们在等下去的同伴，她们说下去太危险了，所以她们没有下去。但是我们没有被两个女孩的话所吓倒，既然来了我们就是要体验一下中虎跳的险峻，但是另外四个人中有个女孩穿的是双软底网球鞋，走路一直在打滑，下中虎跳肯定是不成，结果我们九个人和向导开始向谷底走去。一路上大家相互提醒相互帮助着小心往下走，也许是我和老婆经常爬山的缘故，我们俩都认为下去的路并不是很难走，只有一个地方有些陡，下去时需要拉着铁丝。随着谷底水声的越来越大，不到一小时我们就下到了谷底。金沙江两岸是陡峭险峻的玉龙雪山和哈巴雪山，江水咆哮奔腾，撞击着山崖江石，激起万朵浪花，如万马奔腾，中虎跳石峙立江心，傲然无惧。沿着张老师搭好的简单木梯，我们爬上了虎跳石，坐在虎跳石上看着雄伟、壮观的虎跳峡心中涌起一种强烈的震撼感，感叹大自然的鬼斧神工，人类生命的渺小。远观一线天发现有人在走，原本没有计划穿越一线天，但发现时间还早，又不想走回头路，所以我们临时决定穿过一线天再爬上公路。我们从虎跳石开始向一线天进发，这时我们发现另外那两男一女中的一个男孩儿找不到了，害得大家好一阵担心，结果向导回去找时碰到张老师的爱人，她说看到有一个男孩儿上去了。一路上我们大家开始埋怨这个男孩儿的个人主义行为，不和任何人打招呼（包括他的女游伴）就自己上去了，不具备自助游者的道德品质。当我们爬到一线天入口时，大家都已累得气喘嘘嘘，下中虎跳时一口水都没喝，可这时大家都在大口的喝水。稍做休息，我们开始穿越一线天。开始一段路实际上就是在悬崖峭壁上人工开凿的一条隧道，只有一米多宽，我们尽量靠岩壁里面走，大家正说着一线天不过如此，忽然发现前面的路开始更加险峻。小路开凿在峡谷的峭壁之上，路宽仅可容足，抓着钉在山壁上的一根简陋的铁丝，紧紧贴着山壁，背后就是深谷悬崖，铁丝大约7、8米也没有了，身子只能完全紧贴在崖壁上，一点一点往前蹭。老婆就走在我的前面，让我一直担惊受怕，但还好她身体比较娇小。这里的山并非石头山，而是粘土的，十分光滑，连棵草也没有。崖壁的上面比下面突出，所以个儿高的驴子就比较麻烦，站直了身子都是后仰。精神高度集中，我们一队8人全部走过了一线天。过了一线天我们遇到一男一女两个老外，穿着拖鞋要过一线天，我们都对他们这种冒险精神所折服，回想起下中虎跳时遇到的四个每人都背着五六十升大包的外国人，真不知道他们是否也是从一线天过来的，由衷感叹老外就是生猛。十分后悔过一线天后没有将一线天的险境摄下来或照张相片，不过广西的驴友说过一线天后他照了张相片，我们后来互相留了地址，他说好回去后给我们和david dong他们各寄回一张。过了一线天一直开始上山，一线天都走过了，后面更多的从前想都不敢想的路，就那么眼都不眨地走过去，但是我们大家体力消耗都很大，爬不多远就要歇一会儿。
最后，经过三个半小时，大约在下午17：45我们又回到了Tina's中峡旅店。老板娘Tina看到我们又累又渴的样子，立即给我们沏上茶，我们确实急需补充水份，两暖瓶水让我们连喝带灌全报销了。我们不敢耽搁太久，休息了半个小时，18：15我们告别Tina从Tina's中峡旅店向山上的Halfway进军。 Tina真是个纯朴、善良的好老板，她给我们寄存包、茶水都不收钱，难怪网上的驴友对她评价非常高，果然是名不虚传，Tina's中峡旅店电话0887-8806638。由于我们还要爬两个小时的山路，加之我们刚刚上下中虎跳体力消耗较大，所以我们六个人租了一匹马驮行李（40元/匹）。开始的多一半儿路程都是爬山，剩下的路基本上都是比较平坦的山路，路上有几处塌方地段，小心点过没问题，不过这条路遇到雨季一定非常难走。我们边走边欣赏山中的美景，越走天越黑，我们加快了脚步，最后终于在20：20天完全黑的时候走到了Halfway，爬了两个小时五分钟。 Halfway的人很多，除了邱林他们的团，还有不少老外，我们见到了大名鼎鼎的冯老板，令我们不悦的是我们虽然昨天已打电报订了房间并且下午在Halfway又打电话确认过，但一点用也没有，这里的住宿是先来后到，订房根本没用。为了补充体力，我们要了一只土鸡，可是由于我们上来是最后一拨人，饭菜上的很慢，鸡也炖了两次才炖熟。住宿就更成问题了，好不容易给我们六个人分拆在不同房间，david dong的老婆和我老婆与两个老外住在一屋，广西驴友住一间屋，我和david dong被安排在一个十几个人大屋，这里的住宿并不贵10元/人，我们的这顿晚餐花了108元（18元/人）。由于我们吃完饭已十点多，洗澡水是现烧的，所以我和老婆都没洗上，只是用热水泡了泡脚。听了邱林的建议，我们决定明天徒步到桥头后，包车去白水台，住白水台，第二天再去中甸，这样一来，第二天看完日照白水台后，再往中甸走，路上可以游碧塔海和属都湖，和我们行程的天数是不冲突的。我们和邱林聊到很晚才去睡觉。 Halfway客栈的被子真是不敢恭维，而且又短，但是人已十分疲惫再加上明天一天还要徒步18公里，也就不在乎这些了。躺在床上翻来覆去睡不着，先是旁边的几个女孩大声说笑，后来脑海里满是过虎跳峡一线天时的惊险情景。房门开了多次，山风不停的往里灌，我的床正好对着门，懒得起来关将就着睡吧。
D8（4月27日多云转晴）：日：徒步虎跳峡晚：白水台早晨6：30起床，发现还好自己没有落枕，享受了一下驰名中外的“天下第一厕”，确实不错，面对玉龙雪山的墙只有半人高，玉龙雪山抬头就可望见，十分壮观。 Halfway的平台是观看玉龙雪山的最佳地点，清晨日出正是摄影的最佳时间，这里聚集了很多人。
7：40吃过早餐（6元/人）灌满水壶，又买了一大瓶水我们六个人背上行囊开始上路。沿虎跳峡我们走在哈巴小路上，这条路上的客栈越来越多什么五指山客栈、茶马客栈，由于山里人告诉我们走这条路一般要六、七个小时，所以我们尽量赶路很少休息。总的来说这条小路并不难走（也许没到雨季），没有太多的陡坡，鞋子不是非常专业的登山鞋也成，但一定要舒适、防滑。路上最好找根拐杖，一定会帮你节省不少体力，一路上红色的路标明显根本不用向导，不过我们和传统徒步路线行程相反，所以一路上路标都是反的。沿途风景没有太多令我心动的地方，徒步完全是一种锻炼意志、自我超越的行为。我们六个人有说有笑倒不寂寞，不久我们就从高路上看到了我们昨天到过的上虎跳，沿着盘山小路继续往前走，翻过几座山梁，穿过一片树林、竹林，我们来到了28拐。 28拐实际上就是因为这里的山路曲折连环，山路上坡度陡直，类似从Tina's下中虎跳一段，但是这里路程较长，据说这里号称徒步杀手，幸好我们的徒步路线到这里是下坡路。老外一般都是从桥头出发爬28拐，可想而知那些徒步者在28道拐痛苦煎熬的情景。下了28道拐，有一个岔道口，不要下山穿过一片松林直接走，12：20我们用了4个小时40分钟到达naxi family纳西人家客栈，一个山民家庭客栈。我们赶紧点了菜，因为邱林的队伍也要到此吃饭。吃过饭（10元/人）下午14：00我们告别纳西人家开始向桥头出发，走在路上我联系了一下昨天拉我们进虎跳峡的张国荣师傅，我们计划包他两天车，他满口答应，我们砍价到460元两天。吃过饭后感觉走着更轻松，一个小时后我们就下了山，穿过一个村子到了碎石小路，结果我们发现张师傅已经在路口处等我们了，我们六个人集体将手中的拐杖抛向天空，欢呼徒步虎跳峡成功，由于到碎石公路还有一段距离，所以我们今天徒步哈巴小路大约15公里。
坐上张师傅的车，车到桥头后两位广西驴友下车了，因为他们的装备不够不能跟我们去中甸了，他们要回丽江，再去泸沽湖。我们与广西驴友分手后，到国际青年旅社取了行李，15：30开始从桥头出发去白水台。去白水台必须穿越虎跳峡，途经上、中、下虎跳，颠簸的路面十分难走，但沿途风景很美，我们四个人坐在车上又最后欣赏了一番虎跳峡全程。途中david dong的老婆有些感冒了，吃过药后她昏昏沉沉的睡了，马上就要去中甸了，那里的海拔3000多感冒可不是闹着玩的。穿过虎跳峡途经哈巴村，在这里我们停车观看了哈巴雪山的全景。
大约在晚上20：15太阳下山前，我们赶到了白水台。白水台这里住宿的地方很少，只有一家名为白水山庄的客栈比较大，一打听，邱林的团队也是住白水山庄。白水山庄的住宿15元/人，还是不能洗澡，晚饭我们被宰了一刀，这里的什么江鱼60元一斤，而且也不过是一乍长的小鱼，白水煮的鱼没尝出来怎么好吃，其他的菜做的也比较难吃，并且米饭还是糊的，这顿饭就花了我们四个人100元。由于今天体力消耗很大，所以吃过饭我们回去洗了洗就睡觉了。
D9（4月28日晴间多云）：日：碧塔海、硕都湖晚：中甸早晨6：30起床去看日照白水台，我们住的地方距白水台的售票处很近，白水台门票30元/人，学生票半价。白水台，位于中甸县城东南100公里的三坝乡白地村境内，海拔2380米。白水台是碳酸钙白色沉积物形成的岩溶地貌景观，占地约3平方公里，是中国最大的华泉台之一，有“仙人遗田”的美称，同时也是东巴文化的发祥地，有“不到白地朝圣，不算真东巴”之说。从白水台的下面看白水台只觉得它是一座小山，根本看不出有什么特别之处，顺着木栈道，20多分钟爬到台上，景色截然不同，日照下的白水台景色十分漂亮，一层一层梯田形状的泉台，金光闪闪，如同仙境，“仙人遗田”的美称真是名副其实。台上有一潭泉水名曰“仙女浴池”，潭水清澈见底，远山倒影其中，在此照出的相片洗出后，去过九寨沟的人都说和九寨沟内的海子十分相似。白水台的水是从山上的一个泉眼流出的，邱林说个泉眼就是东巴文化发祥地的象征。
9：30我们从白水台出发，11：30到达碧塔海，路上我的头有些痛，下车时司机张师傅也说每次来这里都有些不舒服。到了碧塔海入口处看介绍才知道，原来碧塔海的湖面海拔就达3539M，停车场的海拔估计有3800M，我有了一些高原反应，但适应了一会儿也就没事儿了。碧塔海的门票也是30元/人，学生票减半，售票处到停车场很远，坐车也要20多分钟。停车场距碧塔海也有七、八公里，可以骑马进出，但是我们还是选择徒步，因为骑马照相比较麻烦，并且对于走过虎跳峡的我们来说这点路也不算什么。我们沿着圆木铺成的栈道向碧塔海走去，一路都是下坡，没有感觉累。栈道修建在原始森林中，路两边都是参天古树，树上全是苔藓和一种叫“树胡子”的寄生植物，地上满是松针落叶，踩上去松软、舒适，比走在木栈道上舒服多了，不过据说这里下雨非常难走，栈道就起作用了。走在原始森林里的感觉非常好，幽静深邃、空气清新，给人以心旷神怡的感觉。大约用了一个小时穿过原始森林我们才真正来到了碧塔海，刚刚走出原始森林远观碧塔海时风景非常美丽，嫩绿的草甸上的牦牛、骏马和远处深蓝色的碧塔海及蔚蓝的天空、白云勾勒出一幅完美的风景画。由于是高原湖泊，这里的风很大，草也刚刚发出绿芽。靠近湖边，木栈道两边有很多家藏民唱着藏族民歌招揽骑牦牛照相的生意，他们的歌唱得很好听，牦牛也都个个非常好看。碧塔海湖边的游人很少，由于所处位置的原因我们不能看到碧塔海的全貌。曾经看到过许多驴友徒步碧塔海的网文，但是我们没有时间体验了，也就更看不到什么“老熊捞鱼”、“杜鹃醉鱼”的奇特景观了。由于赶时间去属都湖，所以我们回程是骑马的，骑马单程30元/人。碧塔海停车场吃饭的地方很少，所以我们又直接驱车来到了硕都湖，到达硕都湖时已经是下午14：30。硕都湖门票30元/人，学生票半价。硕都湖是中甸境内的另外一个高原湖泊，海拔3450M，湖面约5平方公里。进入硕都湖走在松软的草甸上，很快就来到了湖边驿站，在这里又遇到了邱林他们，他们也正在吃饭。邱林他们从白水台出发比我们晚，但是他们没有去碧塔海，因为邱林认为碧塔海有的硕都湖更好，而硕都湖有的，碧塔海有些却没有。我们在这里尝了烤鱼，硕都湖里的活鲤鱼，非常鲜美好吃，以至于吃完一条我们又加了一条（强烈推荐），这里的烤牦牛肉也不错，真正的牦牛肉，味道也是十分不错。对了，这家店里有一只藏猫，十分肥大、彪悍，个头比家猫大很多，老板说这只猫不用喂，自己去抓野兔吃。吃过饭我们开始沿湖边慢走欣赏硕都湖美景，由于这里风很大我们没有坐船游湖。门票的背后画着一条硕都湖景区的环湖游道，沿着湖边的原始森林徒步，那才能真正感受到硕都湖的美丽。但是由于我们时间不够，所以没有徒步。我们来的季节不对，据说硕都湖最美的季节是深秋，门票上漂亮迷人的照片就是在深秋时节拍摄的。
16：30从硕都湖出发，17：00左右我们到达中甸县城，我们去了网上推荐的永生旅馆，现在改名为永生饭店，但是感觉不是很好，张师傅又热情的帮我们找住处。最后在他的帮助下我们找到了一家名为宏达酒店（地址：长征路中段0887-8228585）的地方住下，因为这几天中甸晚上的温度接近零度，再加上我们已经几天没有洗澡了，所以我们腐败了一下，第一次住进了带卫生间、空调、电视的标准间，100元/间。安排我们住下张师傅又和我们一起去客运站买5月2日晚回大理的长途卧铺车票，由于中甸县5月6日更名香格里拉县，到时候吃、住、行一定十分紧张，所以我们计划从德钦回来后就不住中甸了而直接回大理。长途客运站还不卖5月2日的票，但是我们和卖票的大姐说了无数好话，再加上张师傅的帮忙，最后大姐同意让我们先交钱帮我们订5月2日回大理下关的车票（62.5元/人）。张师傅在中甸住一天，明天就回桥头了，他又热心联系他的朋友，让我们包他朋友的车去香格里拉大峡谷和德钦。同时我也打了几个网上驴友推荐的包车司机的电话，先了解了一下包车的行情。张国荣师傅一会儿就将他的朋友张正君带到我们住处，经过一番商讨，我们最终决定包他的车去香格里拉大峡谷和德钦，包车4天，去香格里拉大峡谷1天，小轿车300元，去德钦3天，吉普车400元/天。
一切都安排妥当，我们开始洗澡，20：30我们才出去吃晚饭，中甸县城很小，这里的海拔3300多米，不过我们都没有高山反应。沿着中甸县最繁华的街长征路走，街边饭馆不多，晚饭随便找了一家25元/双人。吃过饭后我们直接回酒店休息了。
D10（4月29日晴间多云）：日：香格里拉大峡谷晚：中甸宏达酒店斜对面的路上有一家狗不理包子铺，那里的包子挺好吃，不过去晚了人很多。 7：30我们从中甸出发去香格里拉大峡谷，让我们失望的是所谓的轿车原来是辆夏利。去大峡谷的路几乎全是盘山路，山路上灰尘十分大，加上夏利车的底盘底，密封又不好，下车时我们个个都成了土猴。这条路路面较差，弯又多，下雨一定十分难走。去大峡谷的路上你会看到整座山整座山的原始森林被砍伐，令人十分痛心。路上会看到一座蓝色的山，十分漂亮，据说这里就是英国作家詹姆斯·希尔顿所写的小说《消失的地平线》中飞机失事的地方。
车行103公里三个多小时，于11：00我们到达香格里拉入口处。香格里拉门票20元/张，学生票半价。我们在入口处吃过午饭（25元/双人），11：40开始进峡谷，进峡谷有徒步和骑马两种，骑马完全没有必要，徒步才能真正领略峡谷的美丽，并且照相又方便。一进入香格里拉峡谷，我们就为她的迷人景色所陶醉了。香格里拉峡谷又名碧融峡谷，地形地貌与《消失的地平线》中所描写的蓝月峡谷如出一辙，十分相似，所以这里又被称为香格里拉峡谷。峡谷两岸危悬壁立，直耸云天，一边称“香格”，一边称“里拉”，蓝色的溪流从中穿过。峡谷内古树参天，怪石嶙峋，满目绿色。北京近郊的这个潭那个谷我去过很多，但是都无法和这里的山这里的水比拟，山是那么的清秀，水是那么的幽蓝，不由的让我认为这里就是香格里拉。沿途风景可以称得上一步一景，转过一道山弯你就会发现一个新的景色，回过头，你也会感到刚走过的那段又是另外一番景色。就这样我们走走停停，照相、摄影随意自在，可苦了那些骑马进谷的人，不停的上马、下马。大约走了一个多小时我们到达了导游路线图上所描述的第三座桥，骑马也是到此，再往里走就要开始爬陡峭的山了，导游图上所描述的主要景区也就是在第一座桥到第三座桥之间。马夫说里面的路很难走，而且要走很远才能看到更美丽的景色，我们也知道大峡谷全长120公里，全部走完没有野营用具是不可能的。回来的路走的很快，14：20我们回到了停车场。在接近入口处的路上我们又遇到了邱林的团队，除了邱林他们每人骑一匹马，看着他们骑在马上悠闲的样子，我想，这种游法肯定和我们的感受不同，结果果真如此，这是后话。我们出来后天开始阴沉，路上下起了零星的小雪夹带着小冰雹，我们都为邱林团队在大峡谷的游玩担心起来。
17：30我们回到中甸县城，听说我们要买牦牛干巴，张师傅把我们拉到一家牦牛干巴的专卖店，我们发现这里的旅行团人很多，并且这里牦牛干巴48元一斤，不过我还是给朋友们带回去两袋。这里的日落时间晚，所以我们又驱车去了距中甸县城很近的噶丹·松赞林寺。从县城到松赞林寺也有3路公交车前往，车票2元。噶丹·松赞林寺，是藏区格鲁教派最负盛名的大寺之一，又名归化寺，有小布达拉宫之称，也是云南最大的藏传佛教圣地。松赞林寺的门票10元/张，学生票半价。松赞林寺是一所依山而建的藏传佛教寺院，远观有些布达拉宫的味道，但没有布达拉宫的雄伟气势。由于我去过藏传佛教的发祥地青海的塔尔寺，所以认为松赞林寺的建筑群落比较一般，很多的建筑比较破落，而且正在维修。从松赞林寺出来已近黄昏，司机张师傅介绍我们去武警路上的一家“老字号口袋鸡”吃晚饭，味道不错，汤更是十分鲜美，以至于爱喝汤的广州david dong两口子喝了N碗，这顿饭比较腐败，连司机五个人花了120块。由于今天坐车吃够了土，所以吃过饭后我们去药店买了口罩。
D11（4月30日多云有雨）：日：中甸→德钦晚：明永冰川明永村由于张师傅的吉普车没有找到，他想用夏利拉我们去德钦，但是我们知道去德钦的路况非常差，没有同意，结果早晨他又找了开北京2020S吉普车的刘师傅，让刘师傅拉我们去德钦。这个刘师傅今年才20岁，但是已有6年驾龄，驾驶技术确实娴熟，这是后话。
8：20我们将行李装车由中甸出发去德钦。车行至纳帕海也称依拉草原，我们下车骑马进草原看纳帕海（30元/人）。纳帕海是一个季节性湖泊，在藏语中是“森林背后的湖”的意思，这里海拔3266M，夏秋时节这里将是花的海洋。由于雨季还没到，所以纳帕海湖面很小，我们骑马向草原深处走了很远也没有看到纳帕海，其实这里没有必要骑马，又贵马又老，根本不跑，比北京坝上草原的马差远了。
上了车我们继续前行，中甸到德钦这段路确实非常难走，由于正在修路，路面很窄，弯又多，而且还要和很多大车会车。 2020吉普车比夏利强多了，虽然有些颠但是坐着比较舒适，昨天买的口罩也没用，因为太小了，根本戴不上，吉普车里也没有那么多灰尘。
中午12：00左右我们到达奔子栏，去德钦一般都要在这里吃饭。在这里我们又尝了金沙江江鱼，比白水台的便宜一半，而且鱼很大，这顿饭我们花了70块钱。吃饭时遇到两个从德钦回来的人，他们说那边一直下雨，梅里雪山没看到，听了他们的话我们开始担心我们是否也看不到梅里雪山。吃过饭，我们上车继续走时看到邱林他们的车刚到奔子栏。车过了奔子栏就要翻越白马雪山（又叫白莽雪山），一路上山，并且180℃的U形弯越来越多。由奔子栏出发，两个半小时后我们到达白马雪山垭口，刘师傅停车让我们拍照。雪山上的雪比较多，但是天比较阴，雾也很大，没过多久又下起了雪。在雪越下越大之前我们翻过了白马雪山，要知道雪天在这种路上开车是很危险的。
下午16：30左右我们到达了德钦县城。德钦县城海拔3600M，是一座很小的县城，但它是看梅里雪山的必经之地。在德钦县城我们找到一家名为交通招待所的地方，房费不贵60元一个标准间，但是刘师傅建议我们去明永冰川住，在那里可以住到藏式风格的客栈，而且也不贵。于是我们驱车过德钦县城去明永村，车经过飞来寺（德钦县城到飞来寺9公里）时下着小雨，漫山雾气，根本分不清梅里雪山在什么方向。刘师傅说梅里雪山是座神山，看得到看不到就看我们的运气好坏了，梅里雪山在跟我们捉迷藏。
由盘山公路下到明永村这条路很险峻，很多地段出现塌方，下雨这条路一定非常难走。 18：00我们到达明永冰川脚下的明永村。明永村这里的客栈很少，只有两三家，司机刘师傅给我们拉到“藏家风情园”的客栈，一看就知道他和老板很熟。老板开口要我们90元一个双人间的房费，我们觉得太贵，david dong他们去旁边家看看了，双人间60元，但是电热毯只有两条了。我们觉得这里有问题，和老板一个劲儿砍价最后60元成交，每人给一条电热毯。这里不能洗澡，吃饭也比较贵，我们晚饭只要了几个素菜就花了60元，既然已经来到这个地方也没有办法。吃完饭天还很早，我们向里走了走，来到明永冰川入口处，看到明永冰川门票60元，学生票半价。骑马上到明永冰川太子庙60元/人，到莲花庙85元/人，骑马下山20元/人。由于我们觉得这里海拔较高，爬山既浪费时间又消耗体力，所以我们决定明天骑马上山。我们住的地方正好临着一条溪流，晚上我们听着流水声睡着了。
D12（5月1日小雨转晴）：日：明永冰川、观梅里雪山晚：德钦昨天晚上下了一晚的小雨，早晨雨停了，8：30我们出发骑马上明永冰川。明永冰川的马道修建的十分好，比较平整，没有什么陡坡。马（实际上是骡子）穿行在原始森林中，雾虽然没有散去，但梅里雪山时隐时现，杜鹃花、兰花争奇斗艳，沿途景色非常美。
骑马一个多小时后，我们远远看到了冰川和风马旗，太子庙到了，这时天又开始下雨，冰川被笼罩在雨雾的朦胧之中。因为我们的衣服都是防水的，所以我们冒雨沿太子庙后面的小路去看冰川。明永冰川，是世界上稀有的低纬度低海拔季风海洋性气候冰川，从卡瓦格博正中海拔6000多米发源，往下延伸消失在海拔2600M的密林中，是一处长达八公里的冰川带，太子庙是观看冰川的最佳位置，再往上走七八公里的莲花庙是观看梅里雪山主峰卡瓦格博的最佳位置。雨越下越大，看到冰川上的栈道有块前方危险进入后果自负的警示牌，我们就没有再往里走，只是冒雨照了几张冰川照片就回太子庙了。马夫们都在藏民家里烤火，我们也进去休息了一会儿。
11：00雨一会儿停了，有的人认为今天看不到梅里雪山了开始下山，我们没有犹豫继续骑马上莲花庙。下过雨后的原始森林景色更好，漫山翠绿，空气中散发着植物的芳香。越往上走雪山看得越清晰，天逐渐晴了起来，太阳也出来了，梅里雪山要起床了。
11：30我们到达莲花庙，一到莲花庙，我们就被梅里雪山的景色吸引住了，忙着下马拍照、摄影，此时我们也犯了一个失误，这是后话。虽然云雾没有完全散去，但是梅里雪山的身影若隐若现，梅里脚下的冰川在这里看得更清晰，在这里又少不了谋杀胶片。由于太阳出来了，冰川的冰崩开始频繁出现，轰隆隆的冰崩声不绝于耳。一个小时后，梅里主峰卡瓦格博紧锁的云雾开始逐渐散去。此时我们才想起让马夫下山，自己看完主峰卡瓦格博后步行下山，但是已经晚了，马夫说已经等了我们一个小时，下山也没有生意了，执意要等我们下山，没有办法，为了不扫我们的兴致，我们只能同意，结果上下山马费每人就花了105元。开始莲花庙只有我们四个人上来了，后来逐渐又有三个人上来了，其中有两个是北京来的一对夫妇，我们大家一起等主峰卡瓦卡格博出现。
梅里雪山平均海拔在6000M以上的便有10多座，故称“太子十三峰”。卡瓦格博是梅里雪山的主峰，藏语中是白色雪山的意思，海拔6740M，为云南第一高峰，是一座典型的金字塔形的雪山，被誉为“世界最美之山”，迄今无人登顶。 1991年中日联合登山队17名队员全部遇难。卡格博峰是藏传佛教的朝观圣地，传说为宁玛派分支伽居巴的保护神，位居藏区八大神山之首，每年的秋末冬初，有大批从西藏、青海、四川、甘肃来朝圣的香客千里迢迢而来，匍匐在梅里雪山脚下朝拜她，她是藏民心目中的神山。
我们等了一个多小时，已经过了吃饭时间，这里没有饭馆，还好我的兜里有一块压缩饼干，给大家分后吃了。
下午13：15分卡瓦格博开始向我们展露真容，我们每个人都兴奋起来，因为藏民都说只有有缘人才能见到卡格博峰，早晨听明永村我们住的客栈的老板说前些天有个老外，住了二十多天都没有目睹卡瓦格博。也许是我们千里迢迢来看她感动了卡瓦格博，又过了十几分钟卡瓦格博的面纱完全揭开，真正展现在我们眼前，每个人都不停的按下手中相机的快门，记录下卡瓦格博的真容。梅里雪山和我们开了个玩笑。
13：45我们在卡瓦格博脚下合影后开始下山。下到太子庙因为天已晴朗，我们又去栈道看明永冰川。这次我们穿过了警示牌，小心地走在还没有完全固定好的木板上，向高处爬去。雨过天晴的明永冰川更加漂亮，冰川在阳光的照射下更加洁白耀眼，冰缝则呈现出淡蓝色，冰崩在这里时有发生，我开启摄像机、老婆则用照相机将明永冰川的美丽记录下来。马夫们好象等急了，上来催促我们，我们不想闹出些不愉快影响今天的好心情，回到太子庙后就立即下山。我们到太子庙时发现邱林的团队上来了，看样子他们是徒步上来的，这么累肯定没有时间去莲花寺了。
下山很快，16：00我们回到明永村的客栈，刘师傅已经在此等我们很着急了，他说听朋友说奔子栏处明天要放炮炸山，所以今天他要走夜路赶回中甸去。开始我们认为，两天赶回中甸可以省一天的车费钱，梅里雪山卡瓦格博也都看到了赶回去也无所谓。可是上车后刘师傅对我们说今天赶回去也要交三天的钱，这与我们所想象的相差很大，可是在车上四个人没有办法商量，于是两个女孩子在后面互相说着，并发着牢骚，司机听了我们的话脸色变得越来越难看，车里的气氛也很僵。路上远观梅里雪山太子十三峰十分壮观，汽车经过飞来寺观景台时司机没有减速停车的意思（上车时我们跟司机商量在观景台停车以便我们照相留念，他也同意了），由于对路况不太熟悉，我们怀疑地问司机那里是不是飞来寺，他骗我们说不是。结果径直开到了德钦县城，我们也非常气愤了，强烈要求要在德钦住一晚再走。由于我们早晨在冰川时给交通招待所的老板娘打电话订了房，所以我们直接住在了那里。司机刘师傅彻底和我们闹翻了，又是让我们交齐两天车钱，又是说明天去飞来寺还要单加钱，把我们气坏了，给中甸的张师傅打电话，但也找不到张师傅，结果经过一番谈判式的交涉，刘师傅同意不涨车价，明天早晨6：00来接我们去飞来寺，然后回中甸，如果路上因为炸山封路我们回不去中甸，损失由我们承担。后来我们问了招待所的老板娘，她的丈夫就是修路的，她说没有听说炸山要封路，并且即使炸山封路政府也要通知的。这事儿后来我们越想越不可能发生，今天就是五一节，正是旅游的黄金时间，不可能炸山修路把路封了让游客进不来出不去。
大家生了一肚子气，出去准备吃饭，路上正好碰到邱林他们刚回县城，结果我们和邱林及他们的两位司机师傅还有一个上海女孩一同去吃火锅。我们滔滔不绝的向邱林诉说我们今天的不幸事，邱林团的两位司机师傅也不相信有这事儿。结果邱林向我们说了一件比我们的事儿还不幸的事儿，他团队里的三个上海女孩没有向他打招呼偷偷溜走了，把邱林后面的安排全部打乱了，邱林订的一个标准间没有人住结果只有自己花钱住了（因为我们已经在交通招待所住下了，所以帮不上他了）。更可气的是这三个女孩没有给邱林一分钱导游费，而且邱林还帮他们买好了丽江回昆明的车票，邱林这回赔大了。我们四个人一听，这事儿更气人，一齐痛骂这三个上海女孩的不道德行为，她们也是受过高等教育从大城市里出来的人，素质如此低下，真是让我们都替她们害臊。我表示回去以后一定要在网上痛骂这三个冒充自助游者的上海女孩，真是给我们自助游者的脸上抹黑。
就这样我们一起聊到很晚，最后只剩下邱林和我们夫妇俩，因为我知道这是我和邱林见的最后一面，明天他们就直接回丽江了，而我们明天则回中甸后去大理。虽然只是和邱林匆匆见过几次面，但是从丽江开始他一路上给了我们不少无私的帮助。他是一个真正热爱自助游的人，他真诚的希望把自己总结的认为最好的“香格里拉”告诉给大家，让更多的人和他共同分享这份快乐。我很欣赏他，同时也庆幸我们有缘成为朋友。我们俩干了最后一杯酒，在小饭馆的梅里雪山太子十三峰风景画前合影留念。
D13（5月2日晴）：日：德钦→中甸路上晚：中甸→大理长途车上早晨我们5：30就起了床，6：00刘师傅还没有到，我们在招待所旁的早点店等他，县城里的早点店开门也比较晚。大约6：30他才来，他说起晚了，为了赶时间过桥米线，差点儿把我们的嘴烫起泡。
我们本来没有奢望今天能够看到卡瓦格博，但车行在盘山公路上转了个弯，我们便惊喜的发现朦胧泛青的天边正是我们心中期待已久的卡瓦格博“日照金山”——金黄色的雪山。我们四个一下欢呼起来，大家的心情无比激动。我被这突如其来的状观美景惊呆了，出行之前就朝思暮想的“日照金山”来的太突然了，让我来不及准备，我打开摄像机将这一珍贵的镜头记录下来。为了尽快赶到飞来寺观景台，我们没有让刘师傅停车，刘师傅也好象了解我们的心情加快了车速。飞来寺观景台此时也已聚集了一二十人，每个人都在不停的按着手中的相机快门，对于我们这些千里迢迢赶来只为了看一眼梅里卡瓦格博的背包者来说，能够看到“日照金山”只是我们对梅里的奢望。
我们有些来迟了，站在飞来寺观景台前放眼望去，太子十三峰已全部披上金色的外衣，连绵的雪山象被火点燃。这种雄伟、壮观的美景用人类最美丽的词汇来形容都显得那么贫乏。我只想说，这就是我心目中的香格里拉。
我们的运气简直太好了，昨天看到了卡瓦格博，今天又看到了“日照金山”，梅里神山展现出她最美丽的容貌算是对我们这些虔诚的背包者的回报。这是我们旅途中最为精彩的时刻，也是最为幸福的时刻，我们四个人在梅里雪山前留下了全家福。
太阳渐渐升了起来，雪山逐渐恢复了她原本的银白色，看了最后一眼梅里，心里默默的说着梅里再见！卡瓦格博再见！我们上路了。
刘师傅的心情好象今天的天气，也逐渐好转起来，路上他在梅里观景台、白马雪山又给我们停了几次车，车厢内的气氛逐渐缓和起来。一路上没有碰到炸山封路的情况，刘师傅没有在奔子栏停车吃饭，他径直开回了中甸，从聊天中我们得知原来他明天就要拉五个客人去稻城。
下午13：30我们就回到了中甸长途客运站，付给刘师傅包车余款后，他对我们之间发生的不愉快事有些不好意思。到售票处去取提前订好的晚上回大理下关的长途卧铺车票，那位大姐没在但她把票委托给了别人，一看票都是靠前的，我们连连道谢，很遗憾没有当面感谢那位好心的大姐（我们取票时到大理的卧铺车票早已卖完了）。车票是晚上20：00的，还有很长一段时间，我们开始逛中甸县城。
中甸县城很小，但海拔有3300M，我们沿着最繁华的长征路走，又去超市采购了一些牦牛干巴之类的特产，比那个旅游商店便宜多了。五一时节中甸的人开始增多，由于5月6日中甸县正式更名为香格里拉县，中甸要有庆祝活动，所以这里的所有酒店现在已全部被订满，我们前几天住的宏达酒店现在的标间已经涨到220元。大家都对那天吃的口袋鸡十分满意，最后我们又走到武警路的那家老字号口袋鸡，和老板商量了一下，80元又吃了一顿口袋鸡。味道真是不错，强烈推荐。
晚上20：00我们坐上了开往大理下关的长途卧铺车，车上搭车的人很多。
D14（5月3日多云有小雨）：日：大理晚：大理→昆明长途车上大约凌晨4：00我们的车就到了大理下关车站，我们继续在车上睡到天亮。坐10路公共汽车来到大理火车站，买晚上22：00回昆明的火车票，但是火车票卖完了，五一节嘛没有办法。我们在火车站碰到一位大运客运站的杨大姐，她说可以安排我们坐晚上21：00回昆明的卧铺车，我们和她一起来到大运客运站，她给我们安排了一辆回昆明的卧铺车，我们把行李放在这辆车的行李箱里便坐上去大理古城三月街的专线车（2.5元/人）。
“三月街”又名“观音街”，是当地白族一年一度的盛大民族节日，类似赶庙会，每年农历3月15日至20日一般持续7天左右。我们一路上为我们能够赶上这个少数民族的节日庆幸，结果到了三月街让我们大失所望，这里的三月街完全就象一个卖百货的集贸市场，人山人海，人声嘈杂，我们逛了一会儿就赶紧返回了。
由于天阴雾气很大时间也较紧，所以我们没有上苍山。远远的看到大理崇圣寺三塔，我们由三月街走着去崇圣寺三塔。由于路途不熟悉，我们又租了一位老大爷的小马车，拉我们到三塔倒影公园和洱海，再回到大理古城，说好车费10元。没想到拐个弯，不到两分钟就到了三塔倒影公园。由于三塔公园的门票是30元/人，而三塔倒影公园的门票才4元/人，所以我们也听从网上驴友的推荐去三塔倒影公园，而没有去三塔公园。其实三塔倒影公园的景色已经很不错了，没有必要到三塔公园在三塔面前照相，在那儿照出的效果也不见得好。在三塔倒影公园照过相出来，赶马车的那位大爷听说我们到洱海不坐船就不拉我们去了，要去还要加钱，把我们气得简直肺都要炸了，这么大岁数的老人说话出尔反尔，为了挣钱一点儿道德都不讲，我们不愿跟他再费话，给了他四块钱走了。难怪驴友们对大理评价不高，就这样怎么能和丽江比？我们花10元又包了一辆三轮摩托拉我们去洱海，并且说好回到大理古城再付车费。到了洱海我们依然比较失望，码头全是拉客人坐游船观洱海的人，船费也很贵，我们只是在洱海边逛了逛没有坐船，洱海的水也很脏，说实在的看过泸沽湖后什么海也不用看了。剩下的时间我们就开始在大理古城打发，蝴蝶泉，蝴蝶奇观自五十年代以后就没有了，我们对它更不感兴趣。
走进大理古城我们发现这里的古城和丽江古城不可同日而语，古城里满是卖玉器、珠宝、扎染的店铺，没有什么特色，人也比较多。开始两个女孩逛得还比较起劲，但后来就连店铺都不想进了，千篇一律总是那些东西。不过大理的小吃到可以尝尝，烤乳扇、凉虾、竹筒粽子、洱块，味道都不错。中午我们慕名来到网上驴友推荐的梅子井酒家吃午饭，又让我们再一次失望。这里的服务态度极差，我们进门很久问了多次有没有位子也没有人招待我们，就在我们一气之下转身走时，才有人招呼我们坐下。在这里哪里是点菜，连菜单也不给，就一个劲儿地向你推荐这推荐那。吃饭时砂锅鱼里吃出头发，服务小姐连声对不起都不说，更可气的是，结帐时两包纸巾和一小碟泡菜竟然也要收我们四块钱（纸巾和泡菜是他们主动拿上来的），结果刚要和他理论他说这四块钱就打折免了，这顿饭花了我们65元。饭菜味道不过如此，真难以理解为什么刚出了一点儿名的小饭馆就如此待客。由于云南天气变幻无常经常下雨，下雨时我们在一家小店里避雨，老板的脸色比天气还阴沉。
在大理洋人街闲逛我们找了一家酒吧坐下来休息，这时让我们对大理的失望事情又来了，我们要了一杯巧克力奶昔，而他们给我们上了一杯香蕉奶昔，我们告诉他们上错了，结果他们把香蕉奶昔里放了一些巧克力又给我们端了上来，我们再找他们告诉他们又上错了，结果他们说我们这里没有巧克力奶昔，我们把他们自己的菜单拿给他们看上面有巧克力奶昔，这样他们才给我们重新做了一杯巧克力奶昔。 （幸好有菜单作证！）一件一件的事情让我们对大理的印象越来越差。在酒吧里耗了一个多小时后，我们出古城坐车回到下关。回来时我们差点儿没找到大运客运站，因为大理的客运站实在太多了。大运客运站也很奇怪，到售票处不卖回昆明的车票，要你自己去车场找回昆明车的司机，后来我们才发现这里的车好象都是私营的，根本没有正式票据。在客运站附近我们在一家白族饭馆吃过晚饭后上车，在车子的颠簸中我们回到昆明。
D15（5月4日多云有小雨）：日：昆明，晚：北京卧铺车很早就到了昆明新南站，我们在车上一直睡到天亮。我们感觉昆明客运站也挺乱的，乘客上厕所收费1元，收费够五星级厕所的钱，可是还没有水洗手，早晨到达昆明的乘客要想洗脸刷牙，就要再交洗脸的钱，真是可恶之至。作为中国旅游的重点城市，真应该注意注意这些小问题！
我们从新南站坐公交车来到南窑客运站（昆明火车站），将包寄存在客运站。我们和广州的david dong两口子分手了，他们是晚上21：00的飞机，所以他们计划去趟石林，我们是中午12：00的飞机，所以只有几个小时在昆明逛逛。
就这样我们从南窑客运站坐3路公共汽车去昆明市中心的金马碧鸡牌坊照了几张相片，在附近的老滇味饭馆吃了20元一份的过桥米线，感觉味道比刚来昆明时在吉鑫园吃的好。随后我们打车到尚义街花卉市场买鲜花、干花（80元），这里的鲜花比北京便宜多了，玫瑰8元/20支，百合2～4元/支，要不是我们时间紧老婆还不知要逛到几时。打车取到订好的飞机票（1100元/人），回到客运站取了行李就往机场赶，还好昆明的机场离市区很近，虽然我们没有晚，但飞机又由于机械故障晚点50分钟才起飞。飞机起飞后，我的心情久久不能平静，脑海又回想起十五天来遇到的人、看到的景，心里默默的说着云南再见！香格里拉稻城再见！ 15：45我们到达北京首都机场，结束这次难忘的云南之旅。
Cost:
两人共计花费：10050元。
交通费：6305元；门票663元；吃饭：1003元；住宿费：580元；其他费（骑马、租船等）：614；购物（包括买、洗胶卷）：1155元。
看过的驴子们请提些宝贵意见！
作者：lcz8888
