This is the May 2000 I and a friend's trip to Lugu Lake. Looking back, had two years previously. Two years, there have been a lot of things, their life has changed a lot. Friends went to the United States to study, and I came to Shanghai from Chengdu, in the city forest continues from nine to five life. And friends, has almost no contact, each have their own life. However, when seen or heard the words "lake" three words, the period of good times will continue to rise in my heart. Article is written by a friend (I do not know whether he can see whether it has been forgotten), a person does not want exclusive, it would be posted to the Web, can be considered for that period of time as a happy memory.
Plateau Diamond - Lugu Lake
51 big fake really make people feel that the Chinese people to play hearts, but also let the day go to the market and anxious for the government and businesses suddenly discovered a new world. Of course, this is not a backpacker in terms of the benefits can be obtained directly. Crowds, blocked traffic, soaring prices, not what we are willing to face. However, it can not at home, on-line bar over seven days. So call, retrieve maps, query data, and finally set on the 6th of travel plans: Xichang - Lugu Lake.
A certain idea, we should start back luggage. Despite the harsh conditions, but time is precious, to get finally get the (accurate to speak with a friend one night queuing results) at 20:17 on April 28 of the 611 sub-Chengdu-Xichang train hard seat, the already excited, is necessary to leave the hustle and bustle of the city, 11-hour hard seat what they count!
Adaptable
There are some people underestimate the enthusiasm of Chinese people's holiday, is simply a replica of Spring Festival. Makes the air hot and humid cloudy overnight resulted in no small deformation, but fortunately already experienced the early morning at 7:30 the train station straight to the bathroom to clean himself, the station had not been big water, and refused to take a lot, immediately turn the next goal - long-distance bus station.
One to question, before we know the lake Xichang town yet to open direct bus can only transfer from the Yanyuan, so do not hesitate to buy a 11 o'clock to Yanyuan of the votes, the last two, is very glad of some . Only have time to thoroughly clean up the face, stretch their legs and look at bones. After a careful polish the mirror to see one, indeed a great change in his face, like with the weather cool!
Was found next to it with the finishing of two young monk, thinking that will be the same path, to know that backpackers go out, be good at communication, but a significant advantage. This time is no exception, and timely information so that we can then change the itinerary. It turned out that the traffic Xichang hotels (near bus station 20 meters) There is prepared to Lugu Lake FIT car fare very reasonable. What does hesitation, immediately retreated to the Yanyuan car to the traffic hotel. Do not let the word scare hotel, here also you can get to 20 yuan per person for pre-standard rooms, adequate hot water, which is hard seat night for people who can only use the word happy to describe it.
About Xichang
The next step is how to spend time in the afternoon. Xichang This is not do not worry, more recently, Qionghai, Lu Shan, far to have land forest, Luoji, Satellite Launch Center, can let you enjoy. Consider the time, spent six cents fare directly to Qionghai park gate. Qionghai is the third largest freshwater lake in Sichuan Province, reportedly the first scenery, but Xichang, Liangshan prefecture, as later, have not been effectively protected, once suffered severe damage, now strengthened with the environmental protection measures, have been restored. Qionghai broad waters of the lake vague shapes of the sky seems to be particularly whitish cloud, mist shrouded, wind waves roll so that the lake's Chuaner some thin. A moment later, then it began to rain, distant ship's tourists and fishermen are struggling to paddling, reminiscent of a certain man and nature a special relationship. May the Xichang this kind of weather was very rare, so I've met, and I do not know should be known as clever or mischance. Qiong seaside visitors a variety of boats available for use, may bargaining. If Qionghai reminded by boat across the riding, we must first talk about a good price for protection against the possibility of some unhappy things.
Qionghai is not far from the park entrance Lu Shan, Yi slavery museum is also one of the local attractions. However, we had to hurry because of weather conditions returned to the city, on the way encountered a well-meaning retired teacher, enthusiastically invited us to go home, Xichang taste characteristics of rice noodle, courtesy declined, the rain did not swim a bit big Xichang City.
Road
Eat sleep a night, early morning departure time to 7:00 most important destination for this trip - Lugu Lake. Yue Ling and crosses along the way, had long been cut off a major civilization seem so desolate Liangshan, until the afternoon after a Yanyuan county, car dealers in the valley, the scenery and pleasant up gradually, but the road is more dangerous indeed there are often signs of landslides in some places only one truck width. Dealers, when there have been slide down sand and gravel, it was a little nervous. Can be said that all the renovation is completed by the end of the road, which for most visitors should be a good news. Or finally encountered a situation: in front of a loaded truck in the corners on the wheels hanging over a cliff, the road all been blocked, I do not know when it can be opened to traffic. Seeing the sky early days, coupled with long-standing difficulties with the car began to back his luggage Erhuameishui on the highway rejection played a live leg.
Glory and with a bit bold, rugged road approached the soil line for two hours, finally saw a car passing from behind again set foot in our car, at 19 o'clock reached the big lake edge TSUI VILLAGE.
初识Haizi
Have been some night, and all of a sudden leap into the eyes of a surface of the water had not been in the aftertaste from the road out of all surprised that people had. "Lugu Lake," a soliloquy so that everyone instantly regained consciousness, Souchangguadu, a time known as the car is full of unknown rhetoric.
We are looking for a private inn, Sichuan side has not yet formally developed, the disadvantaged, even before electricity, natural lower price between the two can even be talked about 10 yuan per person below. Too late to their physical charge, rushed into the lake to lay down their backpacks on, anxious to put Hai Zi to see a transparent look.
Lugu Lake is located in Yunnan and Sichuan Yanyuan Yongning the junction of North and South because of long, narrow things, the shape of a neck gourd named. The lake elevation of 2680 meters, an area of 50 square kilometers, with an average depth of 45 meters, the deepest 93 meters, is China's deepest freshwater lake, is one of the second-largest freshwater lake in Sichuan Province. Stroll along the lake, wet clean air Qinru pores each place, wanted to embrace her with open arms, but could not help but timid, and sketched out the beauty of nature is so seamless, so all things can not be found next to and harmonious place to start. In a stone to sit down, wanting to calm down down. Distant shore, the lights have been flickering, darkness is coming, misty faint mist gradually concentrated, and a gift from God that Wang water, and finally become blurred. But for the sudden intrusion of several more Naxi girl silver bell-like laughter, I am afraid that it will be a fossil in the lake.
Side of Lugu Lake, Sichuan, according to the locals say is a long time ago moved in from the Lijiang Naxi Ren, and Yunnan is known as the daughter of one country - Mosuo people. Language barrier between us, smiling, and gestures Queshi not share your sense of the difficulties, hospitable people of his kind invitation to participate in the evening we will be singing and dancing. Plateau, the stars, the Haizi side, courtyard, we are hand in hand, Jianbingzhuojian, blazing bonfire reflected in the face, the beautiful girls, uninhibited of the small group who burst into song, singing, and everyone's cheerful dance. Here you can grasp life in another dimension.
Middle of the night after midnight, the music stops, only one bringing a lake on the moon dipped in transit will be a blue-hui scattered to the surface of the lake. At this time the lake is like wearing a sari girls Xingmou micro eyes, increasingly reveals a kind of Juesu's beautiful. Water to clear the mountain to the show, people from the United States.
Her body odor
Facing the touch of glow, according to the original plan, we rented on the good ship overflowing with mood toward the embarked in Yunnan. Narrow Zhucao Chuan, in the rustic Naxi boatmen of the masterminds, look so light and smooth, like willow light across the surface of the water, but somehow, the brain of the Dharma ancestors came a feeling of crossing the river a reed.
Really touching to her, you can feel that she is so clear, it's quiet, dark green of the water thrown up oily ripples, the reflection of the remote Sierra Leone is also dancing with the water up, veil no way around the Lion Rock Biao Wang rough defended by the feeling of lying quietly at the water's edge, the same soft, like the United States.
Lake islands is that you must visit the scene, because each place can give you a different perspective, closer inspection of Lake United States, the water show.
The Naxi people in a warm mother's initiative, we have played folk songs, over 40 of her voice remained the same, resonant, sonorous, to navigate among the clouds, which cut through the quiet hours, echoed in the quiet mountains , the people increasingly feel that landscape ethereal, as if the world is illusory if such a fairy tale.
Log in Yunnan
A two-hour trip, we went to the village fell into the water of the Caiyunzhinan. A decade of development, so busy here, as the city where the party was the Pure Land, IC cards, telephone booths, shops and exotic colors of the mini-bar, so that what you feel back to the real world. Everything is commercialized, and many more convenience and comfort, but a bit less natural.
The weather on the plateau as a child's face, just still some rain, and now suddenly clear up the. We climbed the hill, overlooking the whole picture of her, the sun planted, tile inlaid blue sky and white clouds, the lake is like a huge piece of precious jade, quietly on the mountains, then the harmony, just like a huge start to the oil painting - Renjianyaochi.
Tourism market is very standardized, of course, prices are quite bandits, to the same price (35 yuan / person) the next day and then transferred back to Sichuan is impossible. However, how the two or three times the price do not want to accept, so walking along the lake to the distant hope of reaping the benefits. About one kilometer east of the village fell into the Han village, we found a fisherman is willing to price of 20 yuan per person to send us to Sichuan, Zhao Jia Wan, on condition that there must be five or more people. Today, like-minded people who are really good looking, half an hour without getting out of four female graduate students in Sichuan Normal University, is pleased to Yuan Wang.
Daughter, says the country
Daughter of thousands of Moso country style, one of their generations living in the Lugu Lake River still retains the original matriarchal society of the extended family system and the men do not marry a woman does not marry, "Ashok walking marriage" custom; second Mosuo people, "Chong Mother statue Girls "cultural tradition, it seems that also affected the lake's landscapes show and misty to become the character. "Ashok" in Moso language where the meaning is the intimate partner, Ashok did not take the marriage is to marry men and women do not take the marriage marry marriage different ranks. Both men and women for life mother of all living home, due to emotional development, men's night to a woman's "Flower House" live in during the day they return to their own home, engaged in various productive labor, birth of children go woman. Such marriages often do not have the procedures and ceremonies between men and women Ashok do not establish a common economic life. Emotional breakdown, then the door is no longer male or female, behind closed doors will not receive, the relationship between natural end. A child living with her mother, an adult line "into the Lai-Lei Ting" after he has to know who his father was, but his father only a moral ties, from small to accept the mother and uncle, discipline, emotional and economic in nature are among the mother's home.
Mosuo people this morning from the night together men and women in marriage, it is called "walking marriage", Moso language called "life and life", meaning that "go, go." This "walking, walking" of the Marriage Customs as to the basis of the feelings of both men and women, there is no feeling there would be no marriage, it is not the law, religion, family, status, and economic constraints, women and men can make life more than A Xiao. Meng Meng day, day light, we can see that men and women Ashok Ashok hurry home to spend the night away in the evening after dark, that is, lovers get married at the good old days.
Ashok marriage as the reason to go the lake around the Moso households had no daughter, no man Qujin, are matrilineal family from generation to generation. This family has four characteristics: First, there was no one Wengxu-laws, sister-, aunts and other complex relationships, family relationships are more pure, and almost no family radical contradictions; Second, in general regardless of matrilineal family home, a family that is the mother under the leadership of an economic entity, although more and more households, but no family financial disputes, society has not isolated and street children; third ceremony of the mother within the family uncle palm palm financial, uncle and mother at home the authority and pillar, a few old sister of the family, there will be a particularly competent and prestigious has been selected as the "Darboux", by the exercise of her mother's powers. Men do not raise their children, but the need to "uncle" status upbringing and education of children of sisters; 4 Mosuo people are every where in the family and mother, brothers and sisters, accompanied by lead their lives, so Mosuo people are particularly and sentiments, especially rituals, but also has a thick, "worship mother" complex, courteous, harmony and unity into the family after the strong impression Moso.
With the original matriarchal family and to the woman walking marriage-based Ashok suited to the unique Moso "wood-leng child" housing, but also reflects the distinctive characteristics of everywhere. Lugu Lake Moso people's houses, is mainly consist of wood structure buildings. With logs or square wooden walls, log on the card at both ends of cut pile base wedge mouth formed the roof is covered with a thin cedar board top, the pressure rocks, the entire blocks of houses do not have a nail, they do not brick it not only Dongnuanxialiang, but also because the entire wedge is the title of the special anti-vibration frame structure, commonly known as "Wood Lenz child."
Mosuo people one a compound, usually four wood-leng ovary large homes surrounded by a well to form a courtyard. A typical wood-leng livestock sub-sub-housing stables, through the hall, protected and Masafusa four parts. The door is located inside that is called the gateway, upstairs put grass on both sides of the door downstairs is a livestock barn; the door being called upon in a room, upstairs is a temple for the Yellow sect of Tibetan Buddhism and the founder of cases of Aqaba ages Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama's statues, downstairs for the family or for an adult man, living room; the left one is called "Nizar Italy", also known as the greenhouse for the line-off "into the Lai-Lei Ting," of the adult male and female reception Ashok residential use, "Ashok" who have degrees in here, Good Night. Men can not enter without permission Flower House, matriarchal family man always to the female Ashok's greenhouse overnight, so do not even have their bedroom. If they do not go out to visit the woman Ashok, they do not have to sleep at a fixed, often only with the elderly and children are together in casual Shui Shui Huo Tangbian house or hostel in the livestock barn on the grass floor. Once the woman after giving birth have moved from the flower floor principal rooms. Main building, also known as the mother room, right in the courtyard, which is Mosuo family discussions, cooking and ritual places, but also the residence of the mother and the children. Main building complex structure, in general, after the door there is a long and narrow corridor, corridor house was again divided into three, the left, the housewives of the living room, the right to do big hearths, cooking food for pigs, or wine, and placed on production tools, can make the bedroom. Middle Zheng Shi, interior front and rear direction of the two is very thick beams, respectively, referred to as "Wadu Mei", "You Dumei" - the left column and right column, left column called M column, right column is also called Women column. This two column as a tree by the system, on top of the tree as a man-chu, the roots of a woman to make columns, Mosuo People's Bank "into the Lai-Lei Ting", the men must be men Zhupang line ceremony, while the woman In the women Zhupang line ceremony. Northwest and the southeast corner of a room if they had with the wooden wall parallel to the one-meter-wide high-pit shop on the left called "melon Ukraine", on the right called "bundle including at least." Ukrainian melon or a VIP seat for men, bar including at least compared to older women or Darboux seat. Both can serve as a bed at night. Ukraine and the tie in Guatemala include full apex angle should be placed at a shrine known as the "Secretary shame" for burning incense, put King water bowl and lit oil lamps use, including melons and bar full of Ukraine is high between the stove, commonly known as the fireplace, which have a three-legged iron pot village for used cooking, making tea, heating purposes. Room on the other side, Mosuo known as "Gurkha ancient", commonly known under the fireplace in order to house large beams for the community, there are slightly higher than the ground, wood shop, in the middle set fireplace, the same three-legged iron pot home village, but also to use for cooking, heating purposes. Guozhuang by relying on the wall, there is a clay or cardboard, on the painting (Plastic) moon and stars, fire, conch, gold ingots and other images, which is revered Mosuo people, "Ran Bala" Kitchen God.
Is a result of development of tourism, the majority of Moso village set up hostels at home, leaving the traditional courtyard structure has undergone changes, but in general still retains the traditional matriarchal mother behalf of the Housing (legal wife). "Mosuo style", "Moso House", "Moso" and other family hostels where the mother can visit the traditional room layout.
Caohai
The next morning we are party to the six who is about may be the reason many people, the boat shook his children along the way pendulum swing in water, and the day before the feeling totally different, a few girls talk about singing, laughter is indeed the daughter of the country of the , my bass male, redundant, redundant, silence is golden.
Zhao Jia Wan from falling into the water to about an hour's flight, while the abandoned boat after landing from the lake town (left of) there are about seven or eight kilometers of village road to go between the Territories. Some of overcast sky, not Shihai it began to drizzle, and good many people, to have fun lot.
To the town to address the Chinese food, they had embarked towards Caohai. Caohai practical and Lugu Lake is connected as one, the result of many similar named for reed grass. Two years ago, the local vigorously reclaiming land from lakes, making most of the Caohai has become a swamp. Grass past small fishing vessels can only imagine the scene in wearing only met with. Wooden bridge standing 100 meters on the distance, thinking, broad-minded nature can accommodate what kind of survival of human beings do.
Thought we should bid farewell to the beautiful lake the next day and would like to look at her, peer out of an idea - riding tour. The town is not a bike rental business, may be people here are extremely hospitable, I heard that the idea of our novel, after four to help us to find cars. A young father holding a child warm to 100 meters outside the house for us to obtain the vehicle. No deposit, do not rent, because trust is the cornerstone of people living together. Rode 28 heavier line bumpy road, the proud heart can not tell.
Back to the lake, and proximity to the ink landscape painting is intoxicated; a look back, stay forever in the memory. Do not, and Lugu Lake.
Back to Xichang
Lugu Lake town overnight travel guest houses, for the second day of a long bumpy early entry into a dream.
Every morning the town had to yanyuan CMB, about four hours to go, Yanyuan Station to the Xichang car a lot, takes about five hours.
Joint soil Lin Huang
Returning, the train is late the next day, one day time, of course, Xichang attractions as possible a clean sweep, it must be a forest land tour.
Earth Forest is located in Xichang, in conjunction Chengguan yellow, more than 30 kilometers away from the Xichang Seongnam, South Bridge Station in the city to keep a car.
Beauty of forest soil Qijue specific, unlike the ordinary pastoral landscapes temperature Yun Sau Nga, which is a big show out of the thick lines of a single color to the United States. Nowhere to be seen, the sun glaring yellow dirt, lurks in the forest surrounded by rolling hills, in the blue sky and white clouds rolling against the background of the Dai-color mountains, the spot mottled split, so that scattered forest soil appears eye-catching. The whole forest soil is due to the edge of the mountain I do not know how many years after the Department of rainfall, sun exposure after the formation of cross raging. The soft surface dust was washed away, and mingled with the gravel part of the hard soil residue stayed on his body full of wounds of the victims of the - fold, ravines, dark hole, some small, some are deep with shallow, ranging . Mother Nature to create very strange forest soil. Here, you can enjoy the appreciation, touch, or even climb, but the most interesting holes to be drilled ecstasy, and Men Suddenly in Black resilient, and truly let you experience a vividly.
Not far away from the Xichang, as well as the famous scenic spot Luoji, if sufficient time can also be a visit.
7 pm train returned to Chengdu
Reference tariff Tip:
Xichang - Yanyuan: CMB 30 yuan per person per Yanyuan - Lugu Lake: CMB 30 yuan per person per Xichang Transportation Hotels: two rooms (with bathroom, shower) 20 yuan per person per Lugu Lake Tourist Reception Center: two rooms 15 yuan per person a big TSUI VILLAGE, Lugu Lake inn: 10 yuan per person in Sichuan Lugu Lake Tsui - Yunnan fell into the water: Zhu Caochuan 30 yuan per person fell into the sea, Yunnan - Sichuan, Zhao Jia Wan: Zhu Caochuan 20 yuan per person in Yunnan fell into the water Village Inn: 15-20 yuan per person between the two proposed run-length arrangements:
D0: Night train to Xichang
D1: Yu Qiong sea, Lu Shan, Xichang City, overnight Xichang
D2: Take the morning before the 7:00 bus by Yanyuan turn Lugu Lake, overnight accommodation big TSUI VILLAGE
D3: by Zhu Caochuan rides to Yunnan fell into the sea, the village fell into the water overnight
D4: Zhao Jia Wan boat returned on foot through the Lugu Lake Township (left of) to Caohai, overnight left the
D5: travel back through the Xichang Yanyuan
D6: You soil forest or SkyCity, late train back Chengdu
Author: belinda741
