The first one to go, not Lijiang, but the most favorite is there. To Lijiang Dayan Old Town, is the evening time. Coming down from the car, you can see is Zhouzhuang, I really have suspicions it is Zhouzhuang. But in my mind, Zhouzhuang is a touch of ink, and some taste of yellow paper. The Lijiang ancient city clean, bright, open, kind of like the Naxi women in full-bodied, that Naxi men's leisure, it is far from comparable Zhouzhuang. People say that the ancient city "is not worth a southern and south", even in the eyes of my south, but also feel that is fair.
City building, is indeed the taste of south of Yangtze River. Square Street is the old city center, surrounded by stretching out to a number of streets, roads are paved with stones of streaky. Yulong Snow Mountain has become a natural source of the ancient city, snow-capped mountains on the snow melt-down, flowing along the street side of the ravine, so although located in the plateau, the ancient city there gurgling of running water, no wonder the "plateau Gusu" the reputation of the . The hard-working Naxi people, will be periodically flowing water block, water will diffuse over the street from the high and low erosion of stone streaky. So here, the streets are always crystal clear and Guangrun, and into the night, the vague shapes of the moon, the moon will dim the same color. In the rain, as long as one stays Xiao San, the more everywhere are poetic.
We live in a place called Hope Kurau. Square Street west, cross a stone bridge, along the mountain road going up to three minutes. Han and Wang Kurau Inn courtyard style, there are the characteristics of Naxi their homes, doors and windows are the original color of wood and carved with openwork patterns, there is a black dog in the yard. You live in Xiao-wu previously scheduled (I was willing to call him Xiao-wu), do not ask me who said, Xiao-wu, and I said sure. As long as you have seen his face, especially his speaking demeanor and face to which the 56 cm long scar, you do not feel that he is just a simple past people. And I like very complicated history.
Time to put things in the Inn to see the door stood a Nordic girl, back a long backpack, very white skin. I greeted her and asked her not to live here. She asked here is "guesthouse" do? "Guesthouse" in Chinese the word she was saying. I can not say, because it really is not an ordinary hotel, but can not think of words to describe this particular yard. So I used Mandarin to ask the owner is not there an empty house. The owner is a young twenties, he thanked me, but with very fluent English and makes me ashamed, and that European girls to talk up, I was surprised to express my eyes wide open, the owner smiled at me gently, I also will carefully go to the ancient city.
Naxi women in the "daytime" reputation, Naxi girl, not necessarily good looking, but be diligent and intelligent. Naxi man's life is "literature, Poem and Wine Flower", there are hermit temperament. Naxi have a word to say "like a bee, like labor, like a butterfly, like life," said the same meaning. Think of the hands of that butcher knife Naxi women and men in the hands of carrying the bird cage, or great taste.
The Naxi people on both sides of the street is, there is a very nice wood and silver to sell, small silver bracelet, and whether or not pure silver, lights flashing on the most beautiful patterns carved again be so meticulous, and most important thing is price, it is it is fair could not have been fair. According to me, in order to counter-offer, you can only ask not to sell your points. Then bought a 10, Fenzuo hands, rattled to wear.
To the ancient city of the first day of the night, just to catch up with the Naxi's bonfire party. Square Street Middle ignite bonfires, Naxi women dressed in national costume, arm in arm, danced the ancient Dongba ethnic dance. The air was filled is a kind of lively, original but the air is full of peaceful music, a simple sense but can not tell. I saw that girl is also in Europe where there is a very big old wearing a blue hat the United States. I also began to join the circle, but it is only hand waving was chaos on the bracelet ring, caused not live next to the Naxi Granny says: wrong, wrong, so so. She is a conscientious teacher, and I am an intelligent student, it was not long before she is satisfied, began to teach jump on.
Naxi dance, it is simple. Place the middle of the bonfire smoke emerge, rising very high. The moon that night, I remember very clearly, it was full moon, but discontent is the water will be full, round and months will be clear, and the best state. Square Street point of view the moon, large and clear implication of the many meaning. I think I will not anywhere else to find such rich meaning of the moon.
Slowly, the circle dance, has joined the many people. I saw the aunt, as well as Xiao-wu have come to sit and watch. Xiao-wu's daughter, Yao-Yao also dancing, and she is only nine years old. We are in hand, and the music, shouting, "Yiyahaiyo, Yiyahaiyo" gather to the center, and stomped back. Each turn circle, I can see Xiao-wu, he wore his red cap, very eye-catching.
Skip to the body fever, leg cramps almost time, I have no choice but to retire in rivers and lakes. A person down in water, reached the stone bridge. In the ancient city is not afraid of getting lost, and in any place not recognize, and to observe the water, and then going against the direction of flow, we can come to the source, which is the ancient city entrance.
There are many ancient bridges, are mainly two kinds of wooden bridges and stone bridges. Woodbridge is a chestnut wood, Jigen horizontal together a bundle of wood it wants, it seems simple and plain. Ishibashi is often some time, but one can only say that a bridge is "My grandfather's grandfather's grandfather's time to have a" do not count a person of a specific age.
Ancient city shop at night and all of them hung with red lanterns, and chestnut wooden bridges on style consistent. Water under the bridge, reflected upside with red lanterns and snow of the moon, nine points Roumei and a sub-human feelings, coupled with a sub-solemn, a refined point. Liu Yong is the word.
There are a number of city bars, the door was written in English menu, it also brings a well-hippie style, like Shanghai Hengshan Road coffee bar. Through the brown of the windows, you can see the inside Zhuojiao candlelight, rough wooden walls, as well as a clean tablecloth. Many young people, foreigners and tourists will come to indulge in the inside jokes that are "a lovely group of Weizui alcoholic." Or Lin Chuang small sitting, watching the water above the rickety Candles paper boats, water is mobile, is too clear, paper boats made of lotus shape, darkness with a candle inside, as well as the aspirations of promise, but also water flowing.
I walked on the road, a Naxi women do not understand with my listening to the words of the Sachet introduced me to them is the Lijiang Naxi Te handwoven cloth and some herbs do. Because I like her dim lighting like selling something, I do not counter-offer on the buy 10. Such feelings do not know whether the excessive, but I was clear that this a place that some people, this one night, feeling again in the future is not a. So many people lingering in the ancient city which is not willing to go back. In actuality, I was unwilling to be shackles of man, so in any case, I had to go.
I do not know this city, in its eight hundred years of history, is how to reconcile the vicissitudes of the wind and rain inside is the same as how the backbone of the mountain into a stream, but also how to make the Naxi's daughter, from generation to generation willing to be turned into gaunt Granny how it in such a long time, cleverly accommodate the essence of the alien will become live but their flexibility. In the city the night walking in the river, listening to running water, you can deeply feel the flow of life, many things have died inside the ancient city, but a lot of things are alive are still stubborn. If a guqin, has been repeatedly toggle the strings, but also continue to be remembered as long a long time ago, as memory and distributed rich aroma.
Many people, is a lonely state of mind down to the old town, and then lived down, not left. Some people are like me, have come is to leave. Are actually the same, there are those who which to leave the city, in the heart was not in love with her?
In the guide map, saying it was in the ancient city there are 10 things worth doing, in my opinion, some things could not make the event, in Lijiang everyone may have their own "ten things." However, there are a few samples, I thought in the ancient city had to do. For example, to get up early to listen to bird calls eternal floor. Do not have to early, very early on when the city has not yet awake, the time difference between the ancient city, almost an hour slower than that of Shanghai. In a little less than eight o'clock when the city was also quiet and can be an eternal people to climb up the tall stairs. Banko House in the mountains, where they can see the ancient city of picture, as well as the famous wooden House. I went to see the wood House, a look at the door simply thought it was the Forbidden City, so Wood House was called "small Forbidden City," read the Imperial Palace in Beijing everyone should go take a look at Wood House. Want to eat good things go stone bridge, soybeans surface has been called "Lijiang first side" surface is a translucent, the soup is You Ziwei, eats chewing surface soybeans, soybean, or brittle. Lijiang Baba, though I think the general, but also to taste, there are a good variety, it is best to buy one. Chicken is my bean jelly bean not used to just go over there, or eat, and other places to eat less. There is a Naxi ancient music, there is a chance, then we must listen to, although I listen to Lost Horizon, personally presided over a longer, but the music itself, there are still places worth listening to, Maner Voice of the Tang Dynasty. I took a band far panoramic view, and comes back washed out of it is the feeling of the old calendar and butter, paintings, photographs inside are like the ancients.
There is a story, saying it was a Naxi old, he learned four pure English, namely: Hello. You come from. It was a beautiful place. 再见. This lovely old by virtue of this a few words of English in the streets looking for foreigners approached, each time with a proud smile trick of success to return home.
This is the only thing I heard about the ancient city where "people" story. Before hearing the story, I thought in the ancient city where a person is just one of many people, seems to be insignificant. Later on, I know, in a Naxi old people, can see the long shadow of the years. After all, wrinkles on the forehead is carved not come out, but also erase.
Because of high altitude, Lijiang is a bit cold. Back to Wang Kurau, inns, there are a young girl in the Kaohuo, she summoned me also went Kaohuo: baked warm, and sleep early bar.
Black Dog have always lived in the yard, and lived here guests call black or dark. One day I and Yao-Yao playing shuttlecock, careless kicked the mouth black. Black mouth on the bite, thinking what delicious things. Throat, strangling its host in the past, the shuttlecock pull out. So dog is extremely depressed, the master left, has been spun in situ, we all laughed shouted: dog crazy.
It was time to leave the ancient city, there is the urge to cry, someone shouted, "I do not want to leave, this is my paradise." When I left, walking very quiet. Xiao-wu has arranged our trip, I had little disturbed areas. Only after eating breakfast Baba, it is nostalgia inn the little dog. But I know in my memories, I would still cry for the Old Town of Lijiang. Perhaps tomorrow, perhaps when I grow old, such a crying silently, but the words sounded hoarse .----- cotton on 2002.03.11
Author: a5453
