Caiyunzhinan Pleasures ------ Yunnan Travels
2001's "11" had finally achieved the long-awaited trip to Yunnan. The selected line is the Kunming - Zhongdian - Lijiang - Lugu Lake - Dali - Kunming, before and after the trip a total of 7 days.
--- The legendary Shangri-La Zhongdian to Kunming airport, not delay and, after finding a long-distance bus to Zhongdian, three in the afternoon starting bell went straight to Zhongdian.
"Sun shine in the first place, construction of the East Tong, human most Most Excellent place, is breast River Shangri-La." Englishman James's novel "" Lost Horizon "" depicted in the Shangri-La has attracted so many people longing, according to research, the Shangri-La in essence refers to Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Yunnan, Zhongdian is the capital of the state (above the text of the "building pond" shall be Zhongdian county).
Kunming to Zhongdian more than 800 kilometers away, a total of 14 hours driving, less than 6 o'clock the next morning to the Zhongdian county town, the day is not yet dawn, surrounded by a dark and had to lay sound asleep on board to continue. After dawn, in the terminal found a nearby hostel, accommodation, fairly cheap, 15 yuan per person per night. Eating breakfast went to the bus terminal to find bound Bita car. Zhongdian did not expect the traffic is very convenient and usually do not set the terminal line. So try to find counterparts at the station who in order to partner chartered to go. Come from a small group met in Chongqing, his hand, trying to tell us to go with him one Meili Snow Mountain (he had bought the tickets, half an hour is necessary to set off), and the first day he said that he had just been to Bita Lake, boring, If you've been Jiuzhaigou, Zaiqu Bita definitely be disappointed. However, we still do not listen to his advice, then take the one to baishuitai of the CMB, way far away from the place where Simon Bitahai off.
Bita tickets 30 yuan. At the gate an understanding of the situation is stupid: This is Simon Bita Lake and 7 kilometers away from the foot to go get two and a half hours in the past. Can also be riding forward, back and forth each 65 yuan, but said that the landscape well. In order to save some silver, but also to test some of my physical, so resolutely decided to stroll down to Bita Lake. Departure is the 10:00 o'clock. Along the way on the plateau walk through the mountains, surrounded by lush green trees, quiet valleys, turbulent river water can be seen from time to time open and flat plateau of meadows and peacefully grazing horses and yaks, this beautiful and original non - plus any carved the landscape seems to only see only in a dream, people are excited.
On the road to see oncoming In addition to carrying a pair of professional photography equipment, his wife, is an almost did not see other pedestrians. Stream over the mountains, the meadow has been swamping many places very muddy path, and some sections simply wood Dacheng Plank Road. Diqing an average altitude of 3300 meters on the road to a hill extending to almost 4,000 meters above sea level, they increasingly feel fatigue, shortness of breath, heart beat violently and had to break for a while, it tries to add points of energy. This was very difficult to climb over mountains and feel pain like the heads have to fall before they realize that it is altitude sickness and can only grit one's teeth to climb.
12:30 finally turned over the hill, not long, like a lake like a mirror in front of Bita has finally arrived. Bita, Tibetan, meaning oak tree into the carpet, because every year when the azaleas in full bloom the mountain form a "cuckoo Drunken Fish" and "black bear Lao Yu" is known for the magical landscapes. But, unfortunately missed this season, did not see the scenery, and Jiuzhaigou in comparison, but it covers a vast area, lying quietly among the mountains of the plateau, occasionally lake there are unknown birds fly, lake-rich in the levels: dark lake, light green grass swing, verdant meadows, surrounded by a variety of shore wildflowers in full bloom, but it also has its own charm.
Wandering around the lake for a while then by speedboat to the lake's southern end. Is pleased to wear Tibetan clothes pictured riding a yak, a guitar-toting young Tibetan side to help me take off his clothes while humming the Tibetan Tibetan songs, yes I am familiar with the melody, it surprised and asked: "You will sing the Fall A ( Jiuzhaigou is famous for singing a Tibetan singer) song? "his not very fluent Mandarin to tell me that a Dole was his cousin, he would have Jiuzhaigou in Sichuan is also the other side, is then over the mountains to come here. I see. Then he plays guitar singing "" miraculous Jiuzhai "" a song, rough and wild voices floating in the valley, in the songs I walked to him waving good-bye: "Good-bye, Kham guy."
In the top of the hill on the South Side, a people finally take a package of CMB, in the evening of that trend buses to Zhongdian Pahai. Arrival was dark down, only to see a flat grassland and magnificent sunset on the hilltop. During the day visitors come here to ride, unfortunately too late, unable to experience the feeling of riding gallop plateau. Napa Hai even more so special is that rare animals are said to be every winter flocks of black-necked crane fly habitat nourishes here.
The next morning, the bus terminal in Zhongdian County, a hard-hearted to spend 260 yuan package of the vehicles surface, and intends to visit Tiger Leaping Gorge and the Yangtze River First Beach, and then went straight to Lijiang. Master more than 40-year-old driver, surnamed Zhang, very talkative, enthusiastic way to introduce the customs Zhongdian, the attractions of the situation and to talk about the TV drama "Princess Wen Cheng" crew in this Paiwai Jing's been, and his father joined the Red Army march to fight things. Enjoy the road enjoying the beautiful scenery of Zhongdian. Just rained, well, the clouds floating in the mountains, surprising that the cloud is so low, very close from the ground, as if within reach. Groups of cattle can be seen on the lawn and a piece of a toxic red plants, decorate with this beautiful plateau. Khampa people's yards on the shelf before the wooden piles of barley Liang Zhao, surrounded by exceptionally quiet and harmony, all as one would dream of the Garden of Eden --- Shangri-La.
Tiger Leaping Gorge --- the magnificent Yangtze River bowel popular 2 hours, 11:30 to the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge scenic area. Zhongdian Tiger Leaping Gorge is located in the southeast of the junction with the Lijiang, Wan Li Changjiang River split off wins in this crumbling, in deep gorge in the surging waves surging, legendary Tigers leap over boulders with middle of the river, hence the name.
Tiger Leaping Gorge tickets for 30 yuan, jumped into the tiger, the tiger jump tiger jumped the next three sections, the tiger jumped the entire section of the narrowest canyon. Who are otherwise very far away from two, only to the tiger jumped a visit. Tiger Leaping Gorge, a deep, from the top down along the steep stone steps very carefully, I heard a huge roar and saw the river of majestic. Gap Kuanjin a few meters, middle of the river there is a 13-meter-high boulders, like Koho processes, turbid water and boulders Fighting Jinsha River, the valley thunder, water, gas filled the air, imposing extraordinary. The shore can be seen everywhere in the Yi children dressed in national costume sat there waving to passing tourists, visitors may be a group photo with them, so long as to give them a dollar or two tip can be, these children became the Tiger Leaping Gorge Yi a landscape.
Is said that many Chinese and foreign tourists choose to walk Tour Tiger Leaping Gorge, Tiger Leaping Gorge to watch all the thin style. It does have a challenging tour, after a total of more than a dozen kilometers away, take two days.
Shek Kwu magnificent Yangtze River town --- First Beach 14:00 minutes to reach the town of Shek Kwu. Shek Kwu town 53 kilometers away from Lijiang County, thousands of miles of the Yangtze River where Raoshan turn big bend, but make it known.
Tickets here, including a total of only 3 yuan Shigu memorial. A small town, most houses are concentrated in the Phoenix hill is such a humble little town it seems there is a certain historical background. According to legend, Zhuge Liang, who often had mishaps to overcome, the set diameter of 1.5 meters, 0.7 meters thick drum-shaped white marble stone tablet, hence the name Shigu Town, Lijiang toast Mu Gao Ming dynasty conquered the two Tibetan rebellion and later left the text on the drum. Drum cracks, there is war crack, Taiping consistency theory. Here is a north-south transportation hub since ancient times, Kublai Khan, "Cross-Phascolosoma yuan," Anti-Japanese Red Army are in this cross the river north.
Shek Kwu pavilion stood a small courtyard, within the text on the drum has been some mottled, while the pavilion has also been years of remarkable vicissitudes of life, paint had fallen off, Ting Zhu plaque on the left is a couplet, entitled: "Jin Jiang non-painted muddy as painting, Shek Kwu silence speaks. " Pavilion next to an old alley, the alley is very narrow, grass-grown stone steps, both sides of the dilapidated old house, residual canopy soil wall, as if to tell the town's history and changes. Climb the stairs, came to Shigu Memorial.
In April 1936, the Red Army in the He Long, Ren Bishi, etc., led from the town crossed the Jinsha River Shigu achieve strategic shift of great victory. Red Army in 1977, built the monument and the local farmers to help ferry ferry statue of the Red Army crossing the river quietly stand in the hillside, facing the river, in the next four weeks against the background of Castle Peak particularly solemn solemnity. The monastery is surrounded afar, the immediate surrounds of Castle Peak, Hunhuang the Jinsha River water turbulence and persistent, a good one magnificent landscape volumes.
The roadside stalls throughout the town selling the local hand-woven goods and yellow fruit called the green fruit, in fact, oranges, appearance Zhouzhoubaba very sour and somewhat bitter.
Mountains and water and beautiful scenery is a good place, coupled with First Beach is located in the Yangtze River, there are certain human values, so that the town is quite different Shigu unusual flavor.
--- Customs million species of Lijiang Dayan Old Town from the town of Shek Kwu starting a half hour drive to the fascinating Lijiang.
Lijiang Dayan Old Town was founded in the early Yuan Dynasty, over 800 years of history. Here antiquity is like the old days of prosperity is still faintly visible, and to "every family imkye every household weeping willow" and famous, known as "Oriental Venice", "Plateau Gusu." Here is the heart of the ancient Naxi Kingdom, Dongba culture originated and retain this date, national heritage conservation Baisha murals, known as the Tang and Song Rhythm "living fossil" of the "hole through the Naxi ancient music," and hailed as the world's only a living hieroglyphic Dongba characters are the world's cultural treasure house of treasures, which the ancient city full of history and culture.
According to on-line information prior to contact the local Naxi Ren-opened family hotel "Dongba Inn", because in time for National Day, before talked about a cost-effective price, 15 yuan per person per night. Inn is located in the ancient city 51 Street Lane, sandwiches a more partial lots, had gone through quite some trouble to find. The owner, his wife 40s, was warmly received us and and we engaged in small talk. I did not think that this has 18 beds of small Inn actually a collection of travelers from many countries, mostly two hundred twenty-one pairs, respectively, from France, the United States, the Netherlands, Australia, Japan and South Korea, from China Only two of us and a few family guy children (he and other Japanese and Korean people are together), Could it be that this Inn has been famous at home and abroad of fragmentation? owner, employed one of two waitresses Dai, one is Mosuo tribe from the lake, they will speak English. "Same world backpacker, reunion why deja vu," visitors to different countries sit together in the small courtyard in the sofa, feeling for this little Naxi style homes, each with different accents of English speakers, but also laughing.
Features in the alley at night to eat snacks, there are Lijiang rake rake, Ersi and bridge noodle, straight eat a twelve bread. And then patted his belly, straight Square Street, where a bonfire party every Thursday night. Square Street is the city's most famous and most crowded places, shops everywhere, Yourenruzhi. Some Naxi men and women dancing hand in hand with national costumes, there are also a number of visitors continue to arrive in high spirits to join their ranks, around the campfire Huantiao, people were immersed in an atmosphere of joy.
To leave the Square Street, casual stroll through the city, there are many roadside stalls selling folk items, including the Dongba culture to reflect a variety of handicrafts, it is not put it down, dizzying. Flashing lights came to the bar street, all kinds of style bars on both sides of the distribution along the crystal-clear streams off from. Singing of the brooks, the ancient stone bridge, whirling of the shadow, distinctive old houses, casual sitting leisurely chat under the river Awning visitors from various countries, the river occasionally do not know who put the lotus lamp quietly drifting away , shore lights in and the reflection in the water lights in together into one, a scene that people feel like being in the bustling southern Gusu year, which is probably the large number of foreign tourists in Lijiang to make an important reason for wandering from bar.
Lijiang is a need to gradually taste can only place where a deep understanding of its charm. Leisurely stroll in the town the next day for a whole day, others revel in the small bridges, old houses into situations guxiang stone road. Actually, I'm much ancient city, in some places the day unknowingly turn on the three or four laps, and he plans to buy more items of folk phase. When the evening found a back street imkye restaurants, restaurant on the second floor Lin Chuang sitting position, point a rake rake (no way, this stuff is too tempting for me but to eat once), a Fried Erkuai (which is typical snacks), plus a fried river snail, when a fried green, side windows to enjoy the ancient city of beautiful scenery, listening to the gurgling sound of flowing water, while the United States and the United States slowly and enjoy. Twilight in the city do not have some attractive scenery. Touch of magnificent sunset horizon, the banks of streams came melodious music shops, several Naxi women in the stream side of laundry, visitors to the stone on the road leisurely shuttle, occasional weather-beaten Naxi woman Beizhao Bao slowly through it, a few the birds stopped on the opposite side quietly resting on the roof by wind and rain erosion of the old house's eaves patchwork, in this beauty in the meal, true after all one of the greatest pleasures in life ah.
There are a pleasure: a bad night, carrying her to wear sandals to repair, and alleys in the rural areas Gala Li shoe repair old man from Sichuan Shenkan a while. Although he could only understand 7%, 80 of the thick Sichuan dialect, and the remaining 2%, 30 had not even Mongolia with a guess, but it also chat too have thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Spur of the moment, poor imitation of Sichuan dialect asked him: "Sichuan people's lives all right?" "Well, all right." He was pleased to again and again nodding, simple and honest people touched by the simplicity of the look.
It is worth mentioning that the ancient city is said to a large number of separate ways in the pool with mad, hermit in the ideal world, such as the edge of the ancient city or sway sentiments, or emotions declared diarrhea, maybe you accidentally broke into the small courtyard which will be meet by accident几个.
Inn from the collapse of the ancient city walls introduction to jot down the following words to myself and others:
Lijiang Ancient City Ten Things:
1. To the eternal floor to listen to birds, and Lijiang old man accosted; 2. To eat a bowl of soy surface; 3. To see Square Street of the four face; 4. Find one of their own lanes; 5. Called a hermit or a madman ; 6. Lijiang, an old lady standing in the distance observation; 7. Lijiang, a well water to drink; 8. fortunate to have a "Lijiang card"; 9. each to buy a different type of Lijiang rake rake; 10. into a yard trance.
Yulong Snow Mountain near Lijiang and Black Dragon Pool, are also well-known attractions, but the trip has not been arranged.
Lugu Lake --- a mysterious matriarchal society seems to be very mysterious and famous places are located in the partial provision of the journey far away, Jiuzhaigou so, Lugu Lake also do so.
From Lijiang to Lugu Lake, there are two ways of old and new, take the old road to the lake via Ninglang Xian City, take nine hours and walk a new path to 6 hours. Lijiang variable weather conditions, Unfortunately, the first two world a few periods of heavy rain, mudslides said the proliferation of many new roads have been destroyed, which were caused traffic disruption. Only the starting day of the new old fork in the road before finally deciding to go a new way to save some time.
Steep road anomalies, CMB car has always hovered in the valley, sometimes walk through the valley bottom, sometimes driving on the mountain ridges. The vehicle is invisible at the end of the Jinsha River into the abyss or the Pentium. Sometimes cars were surrounded by thick fog, a vast expanse of whiteness, low visibility, it is car into the clouds, the real "clouds." The debris flow destroyed the road along the way can see the situation has really horrifying, there are dozens of hundreds of large and small debris Office cliff on the debris will be uprooting of trees and grass, pouring down, blocking the road, track maintenance workers to clear a way out to the temporary ensure that traffic in some places by the end of the cliff has fallen off by half, the other half of the remaining vehicle from the passage of almost Liang Qi down slowly suck. The Jinsha River water Hunhuang bear Yamashita, foreigners that China is a land of river flows, there is no exaggeration, we can see in this the problem of soil erosion on the plateau of Yunnan Qi serious, serious soil and water conservation issues Qi.
Dealers of 4 hours, 12:00 to Ninglang Xian City, then transfer to a Pakistani to Lugu Lake. And another two from Sichuan, the couple counterparts. The driver is a small group children, claiming that the village of Lugu Lake River Luohe Moso tribe (but he apparently has finished a), his family opened a "Confucian Heng Inn", so four people decided to live his home, 15 yuan per person per night. Also after 2 hours Raoshan "go around", and finally reach the lake.
Jimuyuantiao from the hills, lakes and mountains panoramic view of the lake, such as the Dai-Aoyama encircling the emerald lake, scenery and Tianchi compared favorably with, like a fairyland, live here, also seems to have its own refined sense of extraordinary can not help but like the earth there is still such a wonderful place to go and laments isolated.
Into the village of Lugu Lake's Luohe tickets 30 yuan. Direct arrived quays, and the other right from Sichuan wife (who drove over from Panzhihua, Sichuan) with Rent a Zhucao Chuan (the name suggests, like the pig trough the same boat), one of the islands towards lake birds Island, along the stone steps up the island, which two were purchased to use fishing nets in the vicinity. Birds on the island, not many saw a lamasery will return to the vessel. Few fish the lake, then two empty-handed. Surprisingly clear lake, ferry's Mosuo said the girl would like to see better days underwater 15 meters.
Moso tribe wear the shore by the mountain scenery pictures of clothing, and then to a Mosuo people to come to home visits to understand the custom of walking marriage. That house a total of 10 people (almost every family has such a large-scale), there are many houses are wooden, in the middle of the most impressive place to live is one long, the girls have their own boudoir. Warmly welcomed us into the old lady to the post-room house, her group of children and grandchildren, granddaughter watching television around the wood pile, in which a daughter from a fire set aside baked potatoes to entertain us, because only in this remote plateau long two kinds of potatoes and sunflower crops, potatoes, naturally became their most common food. Random chatter of the chatter, everyday matters, to the 10 yuan of money to the table thanks.
Bonfire night party just by staying in our inn courtyard within the house hold, Moso tribe young men and women singing and dancing performances for tourists. Almost all songs are sung "do over microphone," one asked and found out that this phrase a number of Italian, the table all kinds of good wishes and the "Love" "like" and other means, the most widely used. Moso tribe is not only a language text, but now, with the development of tourism, the frequent exchanges with the outside world has largely accepted Han culture, the village's elementary school is also taught in Chinese. Now 30 percent of the people began to abandon the traditional marriage system of walking, choose to get married. I do not know Chinese culture as the penetration of their own unique customs of the nation will gradually disappear, a number of years, people will still go see the retention of peculiar marriage customs matriarchal society?
After the rain the lake Chile Dun evening barbecue, roast beef and the lake was produced by the fish, It feels very little meat, fish and seems to simply eating fish flavor.
Dali ---- romantic day of the Shangri-la back from Lugu Lake Lijiang, and then take a luxury bus bound for Shimonoseki, late 9:00 and get off at the ancient city of Dali.
Dali Bai is a place inhabited landscape of "romantic" one said, that is off the flower, Shimonoseki wind, snow and Erhai Cangshan month, there is a song "good scenery of Dali in March," on an excellent description of the Dali's style. Here is another Shangri-la in Yunnan, Jin Yong's martial arts novels of several master's impression has been referred to Dali, a martial guise of Gao Ren haunt this shows that also have to taste for a master. Fen Dali Dali Old Town and New Town of Shimonoseki of two parts, both 15 km intervals.
In the ancient city of the famous road洋人街protect the country to find the one called "洋人街Inn" hotel, accommodation standard room per night 50. 洋人街night lights, colored bars all over the roadside, bubbles inside turned out to mostly foreigners, there are a lot of people visiting the selling tourist souvenirs and local specialties in small shops, its bustling scene of no less than the famous Sanlitun Bar Beijing a street.
Lived in north-east flavor Inn next to a restaurant, see the name of the dish listed on the entrance sign was quite warm (I his home in north-east), then went into dinner. From Heilongjiang beautiful proprietress more than 30 years old, moderate and typical of the north-east, then let me feel warm and can not help but think of his sister to his home in Liaoning. Arbitrary point of the two dishes is the boss himself under the cabinet to do, taste and the former is almost in the home to eat, a total of only ten or yuan. Could not help but secretly admire the boss to leave his home to distant Yunnan battles courage. The next day to eat breakfast, noted that some of her lame, while the store owner (her husband), is a limping people with disabilities, can not help but to them is even more awe.
Noon, began to travel, to spend 5 yuan to take the carriage Cangshan park, ropeway ticket plus a total of 35 yuan per person. Cangshan indeed well-deserved reputation of the United States, a towering looked handsome and very vigorous. The top of the mountain was shrouded in perennial erratic and unpredictable clouds in quite a bit Xian Qi. Cangshan other side of the Erhai Lake in the other side of the mountain short and plain, clouds are also few with no features, Computation! The ropeway leading to the mountains is very long, full of more than 20 minutes before marching to. Mountain spring water all over, a few scenes for me this has been quite a bit famous too many people who Daomei attractive, but may well be self-cultivation, ignoring a good place to relax.
Down from the mountains to spend triple rent a reflection of Moldova to the Dali Three Pagodas Park, Chong Sheng Temple of Three Pagodas from the park about a mile way, (no way, with three towers which required 30 yuan per person, or save some silver bar). The garden has a pond, said sunny weather, the water can be seen reflected upside Chongsheng Three Pagodas, with blue sky and white clouds, tower pavilions, green trees, flowers, towering Cangshan each other, they have "the landscape world is close by home, frame style folk Lake" in features. Unfortunately, we catch up with the cloudy days, can not see the reflection in the water, only three towers in the distance viewing. A large two small, three-story stone pagoda has become a representative building of Dali.
Come out with a good open-mo-speaking 4 yuan Qian drove to the pier side of Erhai Lake. Street is a large expanse of rice paddies, and some not yet ripe, and some have been harvested, and Bai farmers busy crafts with one of the charming scenery of the fields. Dali Yishanbangshui, beautiful scenery and pleasant weather, rich in ethnic customs, with historical cities, but also land of plenty, a good one won a place of natural grace, no wonder people, including foreigners, have fascinated, Liulianwangfan.
Seen too many of the highland lakes along the way, I felt Erhai have no great spectacle, and by boat on the lake fishing point of view (with the Osprey to help) to me seem to have some appeal, but time is limited, only the story and go beyond that , and then take buses to Shimonoseki.
Yuemo half an hour to Shimonoseki, had already evening, here's busiest streets, busy, rich in modern and no different from other ordinary city. The square in the middle of the street park can still see the majesty of Cangshan, the Peak was filled with dark clouds. In the street and turn unable to find a suitable place to eat, Fang Huang Wu date is October 1, National Day and Mid-Autumn Festival double unity amid a festive shops closed early. Finally, in terminal to open next three Chuanmei Zi used a small restaurant meals.
Dangye 11-point return to Kunming by long-distance sleeper bus fare is 40 yuan. Waiting time before departure, full car smoke-filled, carefully looked astonished as the car all the men are at the same time in the "puff", so feeling worthy of Yunnan province for producing tobacco, smokers of the congregation before me expected less.
Dali There are several well-known place: Butterfly Spring, Small Putuo Mishima, Hei Chau compound, Nanzhao Dehua Stele and so on, failed to go to, there is no time to watch Bai with local characteristics, and three tea dance performances.
Kunming - Four Great Towers of Daguan Lou traveling night and dawn arrived in Kunming. When the rush to pass, but return only a morning visit Grand View Park. Park was built in the Ming dynasty, the Qing Emperor Kangxi Thirty-five years to build Daguan Lou. Da Guanlou Four Great Towers of China, one of Qianlong, the commoner bearded poet Aung Sun Teng Tai Guanlou, the emotions proudly write 180 word length together, play shows the landscape and the Dianchi Lake in Yunnan Province for thousands of years of history, writing a long-linked bian amount on both sides of the door hanging in the Daguan Lou, long associated more so Daguan Lou notoriety in history, a lot of literati are footprints left behind on this.
Daguan Lou stood 800 years Dianchi Lake, facing the lake. Unfortunately, Dianchi Lake has not been well protected lake has been polluted already clear there is no past and lost spirituality.
12:30 departed Kunming, Yunnan end of the journey.
The bank's biggest regret is that time is short and a tight schedule while the feeling of not fully have thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Indeed, the greatest feeling was wonderful magic in Yunnan, a worthwhile trip. Greatest hope is that in the future have the opportunity to re-visit some old haunt, particularly in Lijiang and Dali in two places, scenery great features, though not in front of us are but it will often appear in the mind and the kind of dream.
Author: zbin25
