Feel the sun - My Travels in Tibet
0, determine a person to Tibet
"A number of people go way to become a true man." - Bob. Dylan
Decide on a person to Tibet, just a excited, this has been a long absence of emotion. I have tried to maintain this excitement and leave it, I will lose courage, loss of passion, loss of forward momentum.
Decide on a person to go to Tibet, is a choice, choose the means to give up. I chose the free, we must go it alone to face possible difficulties. Hopefully the positive will be less prepared to leave some regrets.
Decide on a person to Tibet, is also a reservation retained more space. The space will be moved in the run-length, frustration, desperation and hope that the fill, which is the true happiness of travel.
1, fly to Lhasa
(Picture: the air overlooking the snow-covered plateau)
Alone in the Hongqiao Airport Terminal, when I was blowing in the road in silence, I think of Dawn of the parents off for my presence. But when the plane takes off, all sorts of emotions are dissipated, leaving only excitement.
Plane from Shanghai, via Xi'an, Xining, to Lhasa, is taking the Tangfangudao. String out of the window a sea of clouds and fog, landscape transformation: southern green straighten out the ridge, the Central Plains green rolling hills, dry ditch northwest of yellow beam, the Qinghai-Tibet mountains snow-white-Song Poly. I am in the air and imagination, the routes these four cities and the Chinese civilization linked.
Shanghai is the representative of modern Chinese civilization. Of modern civilization is an objective reality and all experiences are intuitive and transparent. I do not know one does not produce any legends of civilization is not a true civilization, but at least it's not pretty and worthy of nostalgia. I remember a movie in the lines: "When yesterday became the story, when the story is history, history became legend ... ..." Yes ah, the real in people's minds, is not left their mark on the legend of those hazy do? I flew up into the pursuit of a legendary journey to the beautiful snow-covered country to pick the most-lai Buddha legend.
The first stop is Xi'an Aircraft, the capital of Chang'an in ancient times known I was so familiar with. Huaqing Hot Spring, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Famen Temple, which still remains of Tang Dynasty about the Yang Yuhuan, Tang Xuan Zang and the pagoda relic story. Incense smoke and the deafening sound of a drum, the Chinatown of Simon opened slowly out of the car expel Princess Wen Cheng, and she's Les Yeux good stare in waves with the sadness, or hope, it is sad or happy has long been known , but we do know that Datang less an ordinary princess and more a sacred Tibetan White Tara.
The second stop is the aircraft Xining, Xining side of the Kunlun Mountains, the ancestral mountain of Chinese Dragon that lived on the mist-shrouded peaks, West Queen Mother, Yamashita vast Qinghai Lake is the legendary Yao Chi. Cloud surge tide and westerly Manjuan the Yellow Emperor and Chi You took me to the battlefield, a critical moment in the war, the Western Regions Qiang female chiefs led by the Department of the West Queen Mother of the public to help the Yellow Emperor defeated the Chiyou, so the image of the West Queen Mother to stay in the Chinese myth world, at the same time leaving there is a totem - Phoenix.
Accompanied by legends and clouds all the way I fly to Lhasa, where there is a place where singing King Gesar, there is Songtsan kings place, there is Padmasambhava macro France where there are cases of Aqaba missionary work place, where the landscapes, grasslands, monasteries, monks and herdsmen ... ... There are many fascinating legends are there to attract me. Finally, I came.
2, Lhasa Impression
(Picture: Lhasa's largest iron chain bridge; from Square to see the Potala Palace; Jokhang Temple in 10000 butter lamps)
Far saw the Potala Palace, I know that is indeed going to Lhasa. Any city can not look at one, or one by one from my experience to feel Lhasa bar fragments.
2.1 Raksasa female heart, the Jokhang Temple
(Picture: Jokhang Temple gate; Deer, and Falun; Jinding)
Jokhang Temple can be said that Tibet's most sacred place, is a legend in the temple, because it has a legend for each one brick. I arrived in Tibet after a place to go is the Jokhang Temple, Tibet before leaving the last one to go places or the Jokhang Temple, the former is the morning trip to the latter one was in the evening.
I know the first person in the Jokhang Temple is the door selling tickets for the monks - Nyima Tsering, Tsering mean that the longevity of this name very common in Tibet, but Nima is not ordinary, where much of the well-known in the Jokhang Temple is the Jokhang Temple, deputy director of the Management Committee, according to his words, "deputy director of the gatekeeper." He's known because he can use English, Japanese, Chinese and Tibetan introduction to the Jokhang Temple in detail, but also very familiar, witticisms, such as beads, according to an online guide introduction, he heard dozens of times to explain Nyima, but no one was repeated. I got up early to catch a Jokhang Temple visit him, ask him to give me introduce the Jokhang Temple. In the "far-Sang" in the blue smoke and the "buckle of the long head" who I saw a pair of Nima, but he could not find one so I can only people who have visited the Jokhang Temple. In the evening the day before leaving Tibet, I once again go to the Jokhang Temple, Nyima is still busy in his post, and he asked me to tea with him and introduced me to a piece of paper to the Jokhang Temple, although the two do not have the opportunity to listen to him on-site to explain Jokhang Temple, but from his conversation I have benefited, but also to avoid me two tickets.
Jokhang Temple hall entrance to the right of a mural on the wall and complete the construction of the Jokhang Temple tells the story of Princess Wen Cheng Fengfo Tibet from the beginning, to a small goat filling the Temple, built up a series of stories, and almost every story are looking to the remains of the Jokhang Monastery. One of the most well-known legend is twofold: First, the main worship Buddha Sakyamuni, the origins of, first, Princess Wen Cheng to construct a temple town of Rakshasa woman legend forever.
Legend in the Buddha's lifetime there were craftsmen based on his eight years old, 12 years old and built a 16-year-old looks like the three life-sized Buddha, Sakyamuni Buddha himself open for this three light. Experience of thousands of years of catastrophe, like a 12-year-old life-sized pass across the sea spread Tang Princess Wen Cheng was again taken to Lhasa, the Jokhang Temple worship has preserved, while the other two are not go down the drain that is brutally destroyed. Therefore the hearts of the people of the world the sacred statue of Sakyamuni Buddha extremely efficacious daily pay homage to his endless stream of people line up. In order to construct a temple dedicated to Buddha is said to Princess Wen Cheng of yin and yang master, she surveys the entire Tibet is a sit-in Rakshasa women (there is such a Thangka Tibet Museum), the Jokhang Temple is the location of the heart of Rakshasa woman, when the Here is a lake. Land filling the back with a small goat-made temple can quell Raksasa female Paul You Lasa peace forever. The corner of the hall there is a well put ears on top to listen to, different people can hear different sounds, some gurgling sound of water, some Rakshasa woman moaning, everyone heard the difference of their fate is different. The mysterious legends and monuments contrast was even more sacred Jokhang Temple. Here does not belong to any one sect (Tibetan Buddhism is divided into many sects), each one dedicated to a Buddhist sect's founder, and it is common to all monks of the temple worship. After my first visit to the Jokhang Temple fails to catch up with the Red Sect sensitive beads to use the Jokhang Temple Monastery monks held a grand of law will be.
Compared to dark, crowded hall, I prefer the dome over the Jokhang Temple, Every time I go I have to stay for a long time the gold-roofed platform, one night early in the morning sun drying my warm, brilliant golden dome is very dazzling. Jinding in the Tibetan Buddhist temples there is a special status, each one has a golden dome under the main Buddha or Lama, which has played a logo position and shelter against the elements of the double effect. Jokhang Temple, the Golden has unparalleled glory, other temples and even the Potala Palace, can not compare with that. In the monk's permission, I boarded the highest level as the Golden area, here, is not opening up. Visitors in general can only be seen from afar Jinding top of the porch, I went to live next to Zai Zai Jinding saw a thin enough. The golden yellow is actually the roof of copper tiles, outside wrapped in Gympie, in particular the roof of stigma in a variety of decoration, such as the lung, type, deer, etc. that is, there are Tibetan-Han-style, and shape forceful appearance. Stroke with these historical gold tile, listening to the monks under the eaves reading, Laibai Wutai Mountain in Shanxi Province with a mountain overlooking the monks together, he saw much of the Red Hill is the high Potala Palace, my heart not help to bloom out of a Duo joy peace flower.
In the Jokhang Temple I also met the Pomi living Buddha, who is currently the president of the Association of Tibetan Buddhism. He personally from Emperor Qianlong imperial gold signed bottle valve selected Panchen Lama, while ordained ordained as the new Panchen Lama, Tibet's most famous senior monks at present, has more than 80 years of age. I went into his quiet and modest little homes, dedicated as a gift on his arrival he was a hada, he touched me and gave me one of the top-knot and a Diamond amulets. Although I am not a Buddhist, but the Romans do to experience is not bad. Tibetans living environment is difficult, and thus a psychological dependence that were even worse than in other parts of Buddhism have prosperous basis. Later theocratic system was further strengthened influenced by Buddhism. Maybe in Tibet has the world's most loyal followers of Buddhism everywhere you can see three steps a kowtow to the ordinary Tibetans. Living Buddha Empowerment although not allow me to get a deep understanding and wisdom, but the long period of Reading and the hint of sandalwood do people feel calm. I am a layman, inconvenience more than disturb living Buddha Kiyonaga, hastily say good-bye.
World Buddhist center in Tibet, the Tibetan Center in Lhasa, the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, the center, this is by no means an exaggeration. In the Jokhang Temple can not only experience the culture of religion, but also can be seen in Lhasa streets and marketplaces of life. , The street around the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa's old city, but at the moment has become a tourist goods distribution center, but deep into one of the alley can also find a trace of awakens. I came across a private house was being renovated, and finally saw the "beating Al Gore," a group of people singing neat lay a solid roof, a pleasant voice that infected me. How should I say, perhaps only this time I really have a sense of Lhasa.
2.2 boarded the Potala Palace
(Picture: From the Chakpori see the Potala Palace; Potala Palace "is loaded" like; from the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, Golden Summit view)
Each one direction from Lhasa can be sight of the Potala Palace.
Chakpori the early morning to see the Potala Palace is the best point of view, I and a number of photographers waiting for the sunrise at the summit, this time only a gray outline of the Potala Palace. Originally Chakpori and the Potala Palace at the foot of Red Hill this is one, because the construction of gates and roads will be two separate mountains, but it is very auspicious, so with three Sule Pagoda and the two streamer will connect the two mountains. Lhasa is a sudden sunrise, the sun suddenly out enthusiastically, immediately exudes tremendous heat and light, heaven and earth bright, the Potala Palace exceptionally clear.
Abdallah is the Sanskrit transliteration, meaning that Putuo Mountain, that is, Guanyin Bodhisattva practice of Buddhist worship. Because of the Guanyin human self-proclaimed reincarnation of the Dalai Lama, so that another stands on the high snowy played a second Putuoshan. Potala Palace from the bottom up is divided into three parts, namely the "Snow", the White House, the Red Palace; were a symbol of Buddhist scriptures in the Three Realms that the desire realm, color sector, Wuse Jie; its function as a Tibetan Tibetan government venues, the Dalai Lama hearings daily life places, the Dalai Lama and the Buddhist temple and pagoda. From the bottom up is a secular religion, gradually leading to the ladder. The combination of political and religious highest in the world this palace has a mysterious color saturation. It stands majestic in the snowy plateau for centuries, has become a symbol of the whole of Tibet.
I got it from the mountain lane to enter the Potala Palace, which is the line of tourists, while the Tibetan pilgrims is the former hill up the stairs. It should be said that the long stairway up along the more taste, more than ever sacred and revered, but several hundred years of wind, frost, making this ancient palace has been badly damaged, although the restoration of the Government's strong overall structure is still no guarantee that the deterioration of the . Not long ago, I went to Lhasa in this sacred ladder collapsed due to ground water gushing, and being repaired. After the hill from the rear door of the White House, the former White House East Garden Hill out of the entire tour route was counter-clockwise, while the Tibetan Buddhist tradition is time to shun. Although the order of some problems, but a sincere heart is zero, the Buddha should not blame the bar.
All the way tour, up and down, it is tiring. Block read is a pagoda, a temple between, there are many Buddhist statues, Thangka, murals, treasure ... ... but the real record does not remain in the hearts of many. I am most interested is the Goddess of Mercy and the time Bunsen wheel mandala.
Bunsen Guanyin (as if this name) is said to be a natural grown tree, the concept of audio and video, when the trees were removed from the openings Shihai spoken, so it is supernatural, is the Potala Palace, Zhu Gong Buddha and the town of Temple treasure. To Tibet for a long time it was found, the original parts of Tibet's temples and altars have this so-called naturally formed statues of Buddha. My attitude is to respect this tradition, some visitors like the story of a rather scornful tone, in fact, he did not understand that this is the Tibet tourism lies its charm. Not to mention that these myths in the past the role of politics and religion, even to our journey to add some color is also good. Guanyin Bodhisattva is very popular in China, he represented the mercy (another important Buddhist Bodhisattva Monju yes, he represents wisdom). Then he made up his crossing to make the world of all suffering, or will be willing to own the heart of the fragmented into 1000, but the endless suffering of this world can not be crossing finished, and he is sad to shed tears, tears fell on the ground crumbled into 1000, and his heart with the The pieces and 1000. Amitabha, his teacher so that the 1000 to display their magic broken heart into a Qianshouqianyan, so human mercy Guanyin became the embodiment of mercy. I, like most people, the concept of audio and video before the prayer, prayer of my father and mother were healthy and long life.
Kalachakra mandala that I have seen in Tibet, the largest city sports a copper-li. Mandala that is the legend of Tibetan Buddhism, Tantric deities practice sites, the time when the wheel is a wheel, when the wheel mandala is dedicated to the deity Kalachakra Buddha. There is the ancient legend of Shambhala kingdom in northern India, namely, the Western Paradise, by amending the Kalachakra Tantra, you can enter the kingdom of heaven Shambhala. In fact, this mandala is to study the knowledge of astronomy and the calendar tool, in the past have used it to project the Tibetan calendar each year and the solar terms, is believed to be accurate. Tibet Tibetan Medical College also offers such a course of specialized study round calendar. I marvel at the ingenious design of this mandala, but also marvel at the exquisite craft of Tibetan artisans.
I was the Potala Palace, a narrow winding steep wooden stairs effortlessly climb, reach Jinding not feel that this is the highest in the Potala Palace is the most open places, from the dark narrow the child in the temple and go through the shelves of this, the naturally has a very refreshing. Days is the gem of the blue, cloud, such as silk, white, Autumn in Lhasa City, to do in the fundus. Toyama is the snow-capped peaks, near the Lhasa River is golden, or yellow or green trees interspersed in the housing streets, many of the roof are simmered with Tibetan Buddhist smoke curl, Zhang by the colorful pennant. A gust of wind too, as if sent to vault of heaven in the eagle's ringing, and I could not help the wind and the call - Hello, heaven!
In fact, heaven is not what we really bright earth, not what we are happy free mind.
2.3 Drepung Monastery and Sera Monastery
(Picture: Drepung Buddhist temple in; to talk to the monks; for End of funeral rites by monks in the sun)
Tibetan Buddhism is known as the snow country that is not an exaggeration, many of the numerous Buddhist temples and thick atmosphere may be so numb and tired of tourists in general, but after stripping out the Buddhist culture, You can only take a look at the Himalayas are also the product of snow and the flow of the Brahmaputra. Let us pause deities come and go and listen to the voice of experience bar. In addition, I traveled in Lhasa, the Potala Palace, Jokhang Temple, also visited the Drepung and Sera Monastery carefully. As the effects of altitude sickness, I only went to a temple every day, and only slowly come to stroll, but it made me able to learn more about these two important temples.
Drepung Monastery is said to be the world's largest Buddhist temple, this is not a bubble. It was jammed with heads of state, the western suburbs of Lhasa, the root Pei Wu mountain side slopes, shag layered as m-poly (Drepung Monastery in the Tibetan language is the "m poly" means). From the mountains outside a hope and a seat Zhacang, a seat temple, Yanjiaogoulian, group F, Song Zhi, Nongmo public color, magnificent. There are thousands of monks before liberation, owned numerous estates and pastures, as the Dalai Lama's fundamental, its economic strength and political and military role of the other monasteries in Tibet before and after is unmatched. Along the left-hand side of a quiet cul-de Terakado I slowly up the hill, next to a creek and a row by turning the wheel, one of the turning wheel is to use stream-driven, long-turn I do not know Falun world has experienced several years of . To promote these turning the wheel, wooden wheel has been through the mill nothing left shiny, carefully listening to axle friction "Knowing Karma" sound and the people worshiping the population of First Instance of the sixth mantra recited, consciously or unconsciously, will be pouring a kind of reverence holy emotions. Few visitors, only the steady stream of pilgrims who. I and one from the Xikang Tibetan pilgrims from afar who keep company, ask them all the way there, the customs, despite the verbal obstacle is not small, but it reverberates feet designated to talk about is very energetic. Tibetans are easy-going friendly, little wary, because the relationship between the Buddhist devotees are more kind-hearted goodness. This Xikang's family came to Lhasa, pilgrims herders, there are over seven-ten days old grandmother, there are about five years old little girl, and even their home Shepherd has come together.
The most important architecture in Drepung Monastery Ganden quite a chapter (chapter is quite a palace), measures Chin hall and four Zhacang (Zhacang is the abbey), the left there is a sun temple Buddha units here each year when the Sour Milk Drinking Festival Sunning the Buddha ceremony will be held. Lhasa said drying out under each of the different Buddha Thangka can be inferred that year's harvest, in fact, this is joke, the monk said that there are three Buddha Thangka temple every year on display a rotating, reflecting Foguangpuzhao spirit. AD 1642 (the Tibetan Year of the Horse of water), the Fifth Dalai Lama in Mongolia Gushi Khan with the help of the gandan Phodrang established regime, called the "Gandan Phodrang regime", in the Potala Palace built here prior to the completion is the political center of Tibet. Here the existing the Dalai Lama's throne, and his footprints (monks and the Buddha's footprints everywhere in Tibet, but also a huge exception). Corner of the windowsill in the hall I saw a little monks are learning the Chinese language (in the Tibetan monks can not be generally known as lamas, monks is the meaning of Guru is a monk and the Living Buddha of the honorific). So the initiative came up approached, I would teach him the correct pronunciation of Mandarin, he took me to visit and introduce gandan Phodrang in his permission, I have also taken a lot of free pictures a lot. (And people in Tibet must be lot of contacts, in order to have pleasant surprise.) In the gandan Phodrang Dalai Lama's Buddhist temple that I most admire in one side of the Buddhist goddess Kuan Yin Statue 10, quintana Golden Manufacturing elegant, yes I have seen similar statues in a particular draw. 10 side in the Tibetan Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, there is special importance to the head is divided into five levels of Guanyin, the following three on each floor on three sides, in order to Guanyin wears, the fourth layer is the Goddess of Mercy, like anger, is unique to Tibetan Buddhism, Tibetan Buddhism, the first five-story that is the top layer of the Buddha's head, which means actually care body Bodhisattva Guanyin Buddha. Multi-Hand Guanyin face more than a symbol of the merciful salvation of all beings; but this world is not fair to so many things, so the Buddha Jiuji wicked one angry face; but, after all, Bodhisattva Bodhisattva, compassion, or main duties, in order to put additional staff Tears come into 21-degree earth mother, Princess Wen Cheng is one of a White Tara.
At noon I saw a lot of monks have gathered to Coqen Hall, they went along with them, ask them what the answer is chanting, to know that this is lunch. Monks take off their shoes at the entrance into the hall, we do not have the laity. Steady start with the really loud chanting, and then filed into the fire of a few barrels of Ti Zheda monk monk points one by one for each meal. At noon to eat bread and meat, Tibetan monks is the meat, and vegetables and relatively rare here, do not eat meat is not OK, and therefore had no choice but from the right doctrine. Take advantage of their lunch break and several monks shared with me (and they were eating quite fragrant, but I empty stomach). Drepung monks eat three tons a day, this, and Turkish monks NFAM different breakfast meals, and yak butter tea, lunch to eat bread and meat, boil barley porridge for dinner, it seems worthy of the Yellow Sect in the first Temple, treatment, or good. Total does not bother to eat more easily, I was in the hall alone measures Chin tour. In the hall on the left there is a quiet room, hanging above the "women's banned," the plaque, such that every Buddhist temple has a Buddha Hall, the general is a more sacred place, because Tibetans believe that woman was unclean, sacred things are contact with a woman can lose its effectiveness, he met a female guide to the monks, by phone, the monks refused, saying: My cell phone has never been a woman touched it. This quiet room was a retreat where the Dalai Lama, for the one Palden Lhamo, like, there is a nosebleed drawn with the Dalai Lama Palden Lhamo. Palden Lhamo is the patron saint of Lhasa, Tibetan Buddhism is also the only female law-enforcement, faces ferocious, riding a long tail on the donkey with eyes. The Dalai Lama Palden Lhamo a year before the New Year should be God's mercy for divination in this year's good or bad fortune. This is only a round face and a mysterious temple monks repair esoteric, the table filled with a variety of instruments used, I speak to him for advice the usage of these instruments used, through his introduction of Tibetan Buddhism, I know that would be clever temperament the introduction of self-cultivation and spread the law of the process, greatly enriched the religious rituals and acts of expression. Qin measures outside the corner of the hall there is a pit hole of the base of a wall, only allow a person to enter, that is ancient Drepung pool bar (chair) closed-door place. Cave Village is very small, only three statues painted wall. This is the first time I see the real closed-door cultivation areas feel in mystery.
Drepung can look at things very much, I slowly took one day to see almost everywhere are out of color mural of lintel, but fortunately more good Drepung monk, I am willing to help. I was in one of the monks, led by a careful look at Tantric hospital visit.
Sera and Drepung, whose fame is that it's salad hill northern suburb of Lhasa, is the last establishment of the three major monasteries in Lhasa (and a temple was the first Yellow Sect monastery Ganden Monastery). It is named after the source has it that they hail, there are said to be wild roses, but I am most interested in is another name for it - "Tibet Shaolin Temple" because it is to train the local monks. A total of two of the three major monasteries in Lhasa, monks 30000, than was the Government's Cangbing Kashag more than the same time, there are weapons in the hands, it should be said that the Dalai Lama, the hands of a major armed forces. Sera to debate the current economic activities of the most well known.
Monday to Saturday to 15:00 on each side of the debate on seat Zhacang are held by the House debate on economic activities, such activity was not a show but the monks daily homework, they are rising through the debates on the status of their own, and even access to Geshe degree. I chacang watch the debates by the House debate by the monks, the whole debate by the House surrounded by green trees, spread a little stool, high and low are different. 3:00 ago this was empty, the monks had 3.1 visitors who keep coming almost to a huge courtyard filled. At first the monks have sat on the floor gently whisper, suddenly fierce that some monks to stand up in a clap of the monks began to sit asking questions, and debate the scriptures thus begun. A question-answer, 221 group, asked serious, A. tension, sometimes to answer a smile, and sometimes can not answer frown, got it wrong to be beaten, or being punished. Those who argue exceptionally input to see people with relish, in fact, we the audience do not know what they debate, but still excited, it is estimated to see so many monks crowding together all the more desirable, not to mention those who question the very sound slap shot action to open All very, very ornamental. To the audience is busy for photography, a pair of shuttle in people, and sometimes I think to see if they still fun than going to debate the scriptures. Temple idle dogs look at this scene too many self-serving to the side basking in the sun. I was a stone bench in terms of excitement, but felt someone tap my shoulder, looked back and a roll pad sandwiched the young monk, the original teacher's seat, I put them to account, and quickly got up your seat to a full the first white-haired old lama. A teacher, after all, a teacher, there is no exchange of interest and I just sat with the vision of scholastic debate in the inspections of each monk. Are feeling bored, I found a large number of red monk wearing Tsing Yi, a mainland monk, hastens approached chatted. He was walking from the Shaanxi Zhongnanshan Laibai Mountain Buddhist monks in Lhasa, a total of ten months away (admiration!). Monk about his early fifties, gray beard, his face weathered rattan carry a backpack, to see me sitting on the floor, remove pieces of cloth from the backpack will let me Dianzhuo robes. I asked him for advice a lot of problems, very instructive, we might note the paragraphs and to share.
"Why not the temple monks practice Zen?"
"In the temple on the road reading, and reading no difference. Instead of the temple to worship Buddha, it is better on the road-degree ordinary people."
"Everybody Is not worship Buddha?"
"Buddha to worship, but also to relieve people."
"You do not are degrees me?"
The "degree of you."
"Oh, I have parents to feed and will not enter a monastery."
"At home and life as a monk is no difference. Ah you are very filial piety"
"Filial piety can not say, but I always bless the parents in the face of peaceful deities.
"Instead of the Buddha more than one is willing to Xu, parents at more than one thing."
... ...
"Modern high work pressure, I often read the Buddhist scriptures to pursue what the feelings of calm, but results are not satisfactory."
"Buddhism as a prescription, the patient is unable to read prescription disease optimistic, but also according to the prescription fill a prescription medicine Cai Xing."
... ...
"You're very hard along the way ah?"
"Heart is not bitter, who is not bitter."
"That's how you solve the cost of the road?"
"Thirsty bowl of water to drink and eat bowls of hungry, tired, take a rest under the eaves."
"I donate some money to give you it, you continue to move forward easier."
"I do not have money, money can make walking easier, but can not make it easier to practice Buddhism."
... ...
He and I talked for a long time and eventually he did not take me to give him the money and instead gave me a "Diamond Sutra" and the "Heart Sutra", saying that I was destined and Buddhist people. Whether the affinity with the Buddha I do not know, but unless the old monk of altitude sickness after I was miraculously disappeared.
2.4 stroll Linca
(Picture: up to quite a long time Dan Ming Zhang; Long palace; Gesang quite Chapter walls)
A bright autumn morning, I came to a quiet Norbulingka. "Rob" is "Baby", "Linca" is a "garden", Norbulingka is the Dalai Lama's "baby garden", this former royal garden is now a paradise for people, in the corner of Norbulingka There is also a small zoo, you can see from afar the monks and pilgrims and those monkeys in front of pointing laughter. Linca each year there is a section of Lhasa, who started from the Tibetan calendar to May 15 of May, after a long winter in Lhasa were put on a beautiful spring came to Norbulingka the family Picnic, which is what a wonderful picture of ah Unfortunately, I missed met.
I am a man wander in Norbulingka, Susai the trees are tall and lush, and always have crisp coming out of the birds, the sun slanting to sprinkle the leaves on the trail, while the visitors yet to come. Gesang rather chapter Norbulingka's first palace, that is, Norbulingka since then has become the Dalai Lama's summer palace, I was easy stroll from here onwards. Perhaps it is because the most built a long time, Gesang Phodrang is an ordinary three-story Tibetan architecture, and some dilapidated, and only a door bolt the exception of two magnificent Tibetan Mastiff, I do not see anything in Tibet and the Tibetan Mastiff purebred , said to have been rare, and this two can make up to my regret, pity that they see too many people who, for me there is no interest in self-serving pot licked in the "breakfast." I had helped the staff clean the side of the courtyard of the fallen leaves, while listening to him Xie Gesang Phodrang story. VII of the Dalai Lama has skin like hot springs bubble here, while here just delicious herb, landscape Jia, simply on the fence to catch the tent alone to enjoy, and later built as a summer office Gesang Phodrang Chief place. He moves even as far away as Beijing, have learned of the Kangxi Emperor, but also underground in a special decree allowing the Dalai Lama to here as the summer palace. Since then, almost every Dalai Lama, Kelsang Phodrang are built around their own rather chapters, one of the most famous is the Dalai Lama, 13 chapters and 14 gold rather Dalai Lama is quite a long time until dawn tomorrow chapter, after one or two hundred years before and after the construction of the continuous expansion of Norbulingka increasingly perfect, finally it is today.
13 Dalai Lama gold Phodrang Gaisang Phodrang from the form and quite similar to, but also Tibetan three-tier architecture, but a number of large, open courtyard and main hall is surrounded by white marble carved à ?, looks a bit like the Royal Palace a. The most interesting is inside the exhibition with the British gave the Dalai Lama's three carriages, we should know that in Tibet before liberation, but the only manned vehicle wheels. Lhasa, then there is no car to go way, only "road" - horse path was very muddy and rocky, which also three cars never come in handy. Its open-ocean carriage Britain was the seven dirty dirty eight elements, the Dalai Lama was willing to take people carrying a sedan chair, so the coach can only become a toy of the Dalai Lama.
XIV Dalai Lama is quite a long time until dawn Ming Zhang was built in 1952, using Western-style villa built (in the old buildings in Lhasa, the real exception), a total of two in front and a fountain (again a pioneering work). Went up to Dan quite a long chapter out within literally walked into a mural of the Grand View Garden, the walls of the small temple draw the general history of the whole of Tibet, from the monkeys changed into Princess Wen Cheng to Tibet, from the construction of Samye Monastery to the case of Cameroon Sopa followers, everything, every piece is a story, but also marking a text description (It is a pity Tibetan), a bit like a comic book. While in a large Buddhist temple and then draw the whole Buddhist Jataka stories, even the US-Lun Mei Kan. Layout of the Dalai Lama's personal life is also significantly different, and the Potala Palace, crystal chandeliers, flush toilet, bathtub, sofa, electric fan, and so are numerous. How should I say, compared to the East Hall and the sun is quite a long time until dawn tomorrow the Dalai Lama and chambers in Chapter 2, I really do not know which one is true which is false, but if all furnishings, according to the Dalai Lama wrote in his autobiography, his life was not very optimistic about the mice every night has his friends come to the Buddha as offerings before the rations, the Dalai Lama excitedly watching the well-being of these children dinner, savor the joy they bring, or even tolerate the rat urine dripping in their own huddle up on the blanket.
Dan stepped out over a fairly long-Ming Zhang straight ahead is the dragon palace, the palace is not a real dragon palace, but the garden of the garden Norbulingka. The main body of the dragon palace is an artificial lake, the lake, there are three artificial islands, the island has two bridges connecting the construction and use, and the other islands is independent of the water only to plant a tree. I like it here, because it is Tibetan and Chinese co-wall style. Three islands of the three fairy mountains, symbolizes the sea, which is commonly used in the Han style fable, in addition to many of the details is a common architectural style of the Han, like the stone fence on the lotus stigma, like the curved stone arch bridge, Then there is the whole set of buildings painted in Fukurokuju Samsung picture, while the bold use of color in turn is entirely Tibetan tradition. The Dragon King Palace, I sat still for a long time, look in the Swan, together with the swimming pool water. Plateau autumn sunshine of my body warm, deep in our hearts warm.
The article seems to me here in Lhasa have finished the main traveled, but does not seem to finish, there was Chakpori the stone, the museum's collection, Square Tibetan performances, Dragon King of the reflection of the beautiful lake, etc., let me stop and linger. And more in my mind these are not freezing mark on the history of Lhasa, but vivid lives of the people, those kind-hearted people tell me, countless legends, those who turn a rapid pace and by the rotation through the wheel, red Chant of the monks of the scriptures, Buddha lit with many lights ... ... Even the Barkhor Kamba woman sly harmonic smile when bargaining is also a lot of flavor. Lhasa is definitely a memorable place where people here can talk about each of the windows a beautiful legend, where every alley is circulating distant history, here is the story of every people do not come the same, I put my story written down, but a friend of your story is waiting for your arrival and write.
3, Ben Mu Xiang Tianhu it wrong
(Picture: That wood the wrong side of a lake; it wrong streamer wood; Yamdrok Lake)
That wood mistake I've seen the most beautiful pristine lake, is simply a heaven lake. Chartered on the plateau on the fifth day I went to there. Because the day before the adventure took a bath, altitude sickness began to afflict my brain, but even so I was "Ben" Xiangtian Hu.
Lhasa early morning come early, a moon still hung high, fresh morning light has been dyed the mountains all over the Susai. Yang, lined the way out of the city shake the bell full of gold should be in the harvest field, and the hatchback rick heavy song. Lhasa is a pickled lazy river, and yawned slowly flows around speeding cars are not aware of it, and only awakened by the wild flowers in the Manshan slope run around.
临时搭伴包车的朋友遥指远方说：“西藏的云要多神奇有多神奇。看，还有竖立着升起的。”司机师傅瞄了一眼窗外说：“那是羊八井地热温泉的水气。”满车都是欢笑，笑这个“傻”家伙。其实他说的一点不错，西藏的云真的很神奇。如果没有了这些千变万化的云朵，西藏瑰丽广阔的蓝天也少了许多韵味。云呵云，到了西藏更觉得你的好，想编一个传奇献给你：
你是天的眷侣，却让大地妒忌，高擎起山的矛，笔直向天刺去。
是你温婉回眸，解开层层罗衣，轻轻将山罩起，干戈零落成雨。
爱是如此神奇，你是如此美丽，融去恩恩怨怨，天地永在一起。
我们一行是幸运的，云淡风轻。在念青唐古拉山山口，清晰的主峰峰顶屹立在面前，真就是那位神话中白盔白甲骑白马的勇士。连绵的雪峰平缓，宽广的草甸温暖，这个山口温柔的让人不敢相信，只有一座巨大的玛尼堆和无数飘动的风马旗标志着山口的威严。我跟司机学着将五色风马的纸抛洒向空中，藏族人会边抛洒边念诵长段的祈祷词，我们学不来，就大叫着“索索索索索索……”凑数。这里是主要的夏季高原牧场，如今草已经黄了，有的地方还有积雪的痕迹，牦牛无奈地啃着枯黄的草根，等着主人转场。剩下的帐篷已经不多，看来他们很快也要走了，等到明年春天一定会有更多的牧民赶着牛羊来到这里。望着草原和群山，我突然想唱歌就干脆唱起来：“美丽的草原我的家……”，周围的牧民听着我唱呵呵的笑，不一会远处就真有一个年轻的牧羊姑娘也唱起来了，她的歌声真悠远嘹亮，虽然我看不清她的面庞，却能听出她歌声中的快乐。
翻过纳根山口就可以望见那木错。真不敢相信远处的那木错是一抹如此深邃的蓝，平静的蓝。纳木错是西藏三大神湖之一，也是藏传佛教的著名圣地，意为天湖。相传这里是密宗本尊胜乐金刚的道场，信徒们尊其为四大威猛湖之一。即使在这里远远一瞥，那种纯净平和还是深深地植进了我的心。我站在山口久久的望着，头顶是一片蓝，脚下还是一片蓝，不觉人有些迷离，难道我在空中飞翔吗？一只鹰从身边飞来，向更高的山顶飞去。纳根山口海拔五千四百米，不宜停留，幸好一路下山都在那木错的身边，我的目光一刻也没有离开她的身影。对她的迷恋让我心弛，竟忘记了去扎西半岛这条出名“搓板路”的颠簸。
到那木错一定要去扎西半岛，这里是观赏那木错最美的地方。近处看那木错感觉又不相同，天是晶莹的，云是晶莹的，山是晶莹的，水是晶莹的，完全就是琉璃世界。湖水无色，映入蓝天却比蓝天更深湛；湖水无声，融进山风却比山风更汹涌。一排排细浪欢腾而来，拍击在岸上却无比轻柔，碎成无数的珍宝比阳光还耀眼。传说中念青唐古拉山是英俊的男子，那木错湖是美丽的妇人，他们山水相依爱到永远；现实里也正是念青唐古拉山冰雪的融水汇成无数的溪流滋养着那木错湖，这些清澈流淌的小溪正是他们万年不变的爱语，点点滴滴，如诉如泣。在扎西半岛优美的弧型岸边眺望对岸，从念青唐古拉山的白，到草原的黄，再到那木错的蓝，色彩纯粹而绚烂，简单而明快，是一幅天工的织锦，再配着凝固的白云做花边，流动的黑牦牛做流苏，更加难描难画。忍不住低头掬一捧湖水洗脸，冰冷地让人打个颤。司机告诉我说这是圣水一定要喝的，多喝多福。我浅浅一尝，感觉不到咸水的苦涩，反倒有一丝甘甜，真是一个奇怪的咸水湖。许多藏族人还用水壶盛了这水带给远方的亲人。
环湖而行，走在无数信徒用全部身心趟出的转经道上，头上三尺有神灵，天空与我如此接近。今年是藏历马年，信徒大多去转岗仁布钦山了，据说今年转神山一圈相当于平常年份转十三圈。而到了明年，藏历羊年则是转那木错湖的好时候，据说到那时无数的神仙将在这美丽的天湖中聚会。我不是虔诚的信徒，为了摄影也转上了一段，恰好碰到一位藏族老者牵着一头牦牛在转湖。老者三步一叩首缓缓前行，黝黑的额头上有着明显突起的老茧，是长年跪拜的结果，听说一个西藏人一生至少磕十万个头，为十万个菩萨每人磕一个。磕头讲究五体投地满心虔诚，每走三步一定要磕一个，如果路途中经过河流不能就地磕头，也要数清步数过了河之后补齐。老者前行、匍匐、跪拜、起立……周而复始，不紧不慢，他的牦牛驮着行李跟在后面同样的虔诚和庄严，似乎也知道转湖的神圣。我注视了他们很久，忍不住走上前去攀谈，可惜他根本不懂汉语，只能冲我微笑，我掏出巧克力给他吃，他就吃；我倒出热茶水给他喝，他就喝，一点也不拘束。在西藏我学着善待他人，多留一张笑脸，少存一份戒心，感到每天的日子变的简单而和谐。临别老者送给我十颗绿松石，我也没有推辞。虽然始终没有言语，但我似乎也明白了他们的生活，我用仅会的藏话向他告别：扎西德勒。
那木错海拔四千七百米，气候变化很剧烈，在这里过夜会加重高原反应，我此时身体反应已经比较剧烈，头疼、呕吐、气急让我每走一步都很困难，我只能取消原先湖边夜宿的打算，祭过玛尼堆后就匆匆赶回拉萨。错过了那木错湖晨昏的瑰丽景色，不能不说是一种遗憾。别了，那木错，我和你有个约会，等到青藏铁路通车后我们再相见。
４、 跟着尼洋河到林芝
（图名：尼洋河风光；尼洋河的晨雾；巴松错和错中寺）
从拉萨到林芝走的是川藏公路的一段，四百多公里的路，海拔却相差了近两千米，如同顺着大地的阶梯而下。沿路风光，从雪山到草原，从荒漠到丛林，逐次变幻，仿佛一道画廊。
站在海拔五千多米的米拉山口，听山风在身周旋转，看群山在脚下铺卷，阴云四合，荒原千里，唯有雄鹰在更高的天空翱翔。翻过山口就是高山草甸，一倒倒雪山融水汇成的溪流顺着山谷聚在一起，涓涓向前。牧草已经枯黄，但仍有星星点点的兰色野花盛开其间，藏纸就是用这种花作成，因为花有毒，所以藏纸不被虫蛀。海拔渐低，树木渐多，漫山坡的灌木，丛丛金黄；满河沟的树林，株株青绿。眼前的风光变换，天气也变个不停，一忽而阴，一忽儿雨，转瞬间是一阵冰雹，突然又开出了太阳。阳光真是神奇，有了它的点染，万物生机昂然，连河水都欢快起来，闪烁个不停。尼洋河一路跟我们走来，从淙淙到滔滔，穿过狭窄的峡谷，来到宽广的平滩，河水一下子散开来漫开来。河滩真美，水绿山青，石白沙黄，红色的屋顶，金色的佛塔，黑色的牦牛，白色的骏马，五彩的经幡，风景到此无比绚烂，海拔到此也就降到了两千多米。
公路边的树木是越来越高，越来越密，公路上见到的动物也越来越多。我们的司机非常幽默，把这些动物统统称做交警，什么“牛交警”，“马交警”，“狗交警”，最有意思的是“猪交警”。这里的猪不是白白胖胖懒懒的那种，而是黑黑瘦瘦，小腿跑的很快的那种。藏猪长不大，渴了喝泉水，饿了吃野果，所以肥肉少瘦肉多，据说还有一种淡淡的香味，中午我们在工布江达的餐馆里尝了尝，味道确实不坏。这些“交警”不断提醒着往来的司机们小心驾驶不要超速，大多态度不错，偶尔也有一些占着路不肯走的，司机只有用车头轻轻地推它一把。
这条路上还有两道风景值得一提。首先就是一队队的军车。长的军车队伍有上百辆，一色的军绿，车型相同，车距也相同，迎面开来很威风。我挥手窗外向他们致意，他们也一辆接一辆地和我鸣笛致意。这里的军车风纪很好，司机师傅说他们从来不欺负地方上的车辆，如果遇到坏在路边的车辆还会主动帮忙。我很钦佩这些高原汽车兵。而另一道风景更让我尊敬，那就是修路人。进藏的道路有四条：青藏线、川藏线、滇藏线和新藏线，路况都不好。尤其是川藏线，经常塌方，往往是用推土机推推就算一条便道，几条木板搭搭就是一架便桥，整条公路都在修修补补，沿途也就有了许多修路人忙碌的身影。他们为了进藏干线的畅通做出了巨大的贡献，如今的西藏建设的非常快，很多道路都已经翻新成了柏油马路，甚至是高速路，这其中也凝聚了修路人的血汗。据说当年修青藏、川藏路每修一里就牺牲一个人。我们的车每遇到一处修路现场都会放慢速度鸣笛致意，修路人也会停下来向我们招招手笑一笑。萍水相逢的人们啊，祝你们平安幸福。
一路走走停停，拍摄尼洋河的风光，参观千年柏树王，还到藏族村寨家访，收获很多，只可惜由于修路没有翻过色季拉山到鲁朗林海。傍晚十分终于到了八一镇。八一镇是林芝地委所在地，由福建和广东援建的，完全就是一个新城，它引不起我什么兴趣，但对西藏人来说这里却是“小香港”。这天正好是十月一日，夜晚的深圳大道霓红闪烁还真有一点沿海城市的味道。
第二天清晨晨雾还未散去，我就踏上了去巴松错的道路。八松错是林区中的一个高山堰塞湖，藏族人称其为碧玉湖，传说湖里有水妖，莲花生大师用手中的金刚杵投入湖中变成一座小岛，镇住了水妖。后来人们为了纪念大师，就在湖中小岛上建起一座寺院。我很喜欢八松错的宁静，山环着湖，湖环着岛，皑皑的雪山倒影，青青的松柏小径，人称高原小瑞士。一道铁索连着岸和岛，一个老人拉着木筏往来渡人。我帮着老人一起拉木筏，他也给了我一个惊喜，告诉我岛上有一个水葬台并指给我方向。水葬是藏族地区五种葬法之一（塔葬、火葬、天葬、水葬、土葬），主要是对夭折儿童的葬法，水葬台就是一块大石头，周围插满了经幡和旗帜，面前的水流要深要急便于尸体下沉。有专门的水葬师操作，他们将死者剁成几块绑上石头投到水里就完成了，此外就是念经祈祷，整个过程死者家属不能看。我站在水葬台上试着抛一段木头到湖里，果然聚来很多的鱼。整个小岛主要就是一座寺——错中寺（在藏语中，“错”就是湖，“拉”就是山，“错中寺”就是湖中寺的意思）。它供的是莲花生大师，属于红教宁玛派。红教是藏传佛教中最古老的教派，“宁玛”就是“老和旧”的意思。他们有一种奇特的密宗修行方法，该教派的活佛采用阴阳双修的方法得到圆满，双修中男的象征“智慧”，女的象征“慈悲”，当智慧和慈悲交和就达到了无上的圆满，双方都可成佛。我不知道现在他们是否还保存着这样的修行方法，但红教寺庙的确还保留着对生殖的崇拜。在大殿的两侧各有一个象征着男女生殖器的木头雕塑，男左女右。如今的错中寺只有四名尼姑，可不要小看这些尼姑，红教的尼姑往往是练瑜珈功的高手，据说可以盘膝飞腾数尺。我向她们询问，她们却笑着跑了。
围着八松错走走才真正感到林芝是西藏的江南。这里海拔较低，河流纵横，气候温润，植被丰富，春天桃花分外妖娆，秋季杨柳一片金黄，河滩地开垦出块块良田，农民们赶着牦牛翻耕着田垄，村舍间鸡鸣狗吠炊烟袅袅，不是江南，胜是江南。
５、 从前藏到后藏
（图名：白居寺十万佛塔；江孜宗山城堡；扎什伦布寺）
西藏有两大活佛系统，一个是达赖，一个是班禅，一个在前藏拉萨，一个在后藏日喀则。
我从林芝返回拉萨后休整了一天就踏上318国道前往日喀则。 318国道走的是拉萨和日喀则之间途径江孜的老路，现在已经有一条直达的柏油新路。新路比老路节约2小时行程，但老路沿途有羊卓雍错和江孜城都很值得一看，风光是新路无法比拟的。从拉萨出来过泥塘大佛到达曲水大桥走的都是机场路，一过大桥道路就分成三股，向东的高速路通贡噶机场和山南，向西的柏油路是去日喀则的新路，向南的土路就是318国道。我们的越野车扬起一路烟尘驰上盘桓于山岭间的土石国道。
5．1羊卓雍错
在到达甘巴拉山口前一路都在山岭间盘旋，路陡弯急，灰尘很大。虽然颠簸，倒也不算难走，和前几天没有翻过的林芝色季拉山口的道路比起来，简直就是阳关大道了。路的右边可以看到羊湖电站。羊湖（即羊卓雍错）与雅鲁藏布江相隔一山，最近处仅宽６千米，但两者的水位高差竟达８００余米，水力资源非常丰富。世界上海拔最高的抽水蓄能电站——羊湖电站就坐落于此。夏季羊湖水从管道中流向雅鲁藏布江进行发电，冬季再将雅鲁藏布江的水抽一部分回羊湖积蓄起来，总体保持羊湖的水位平衡。目前羊湖抽水蓄能电站和羊八井地热电站都是拉萨周边重要的电力中心。这条路上还有很多骑车旅行的“驴族”，大多是老外，他们在崎岖的山路上奋力前行，衣着装备很专业，看上去挺幸福，但吃土的滋味想来也不好受，每每碰到这样的人，我总让司机师傅开的慢些尽量少扬起些尘土。同在旅途的人们相互之间一个微笑一个点头也是一个美好的祝福。
甘巴拉山口海拔五千多米，是观赏羊卓雍错全景的最佳地点。羊卓雍错在藏语中是天鹅湖的意思，也是西藏三大圣湖之一。从地理上说是高原堰塞淡水湖，周围雪山的融水滋养着它，湖中盛产无鳞鱼。从山上看下去，羊湖杈港众多，更象是一株珊瑚。湖水湛蓝，雪山洁白，头顶云朵缓缓掠过，在平静的水面上投下深浅不等的倒影，湖水也就显出浓淡不均的蓝色，愈发迷人眼目。极目远眺是层层叠叠的雪山，其中一座雪峰特别显眼，山型如锥，直插云天，司机说它是宁金抗沙峰，意思是“夜叉神居住在高贵雪山上”。在羊卓雍错的南岸有一座著名的佛寺——桑顶寺，是由西藏唯一的女活佛主持的。她目前是西藏政协副主席，庙里除了她都是男性僧侣很有意思。听说在文化大革命期间，她被迫还俗嫁人生子，文革后才又重新回到了寺庙中。
从甘巴拉山口下来到浪卡子县都是沿着羊湖而行。近观羊湖更觉其静，湖面微有涟漪，偶尔还看见湖中大鲤鱼翻起的浪花，原来圣湖里的鱼没人吃，后来却被吃的差不多了，好在政府出面严禁捕捞，如今稍有恢复。与那木错相比，这里雪山相隔太远少了一分雄伟；与巴松错相比，这里几乎没有树木少了一分灵秀，惟独黄土连绵荒山纵横，多了一分苍凉。在一座废弃的小村旁我们停车小憩，一个人走到湖边，阳光太耀眼，我眯着眼睛看湖光山色，朦朦胧胧，心中涌起一种“高原如梦”的情感，久久不能平息。
围着羊湖一走就是六七十里，车子过了浪卡子县才和羊湖作别。浪卡子县名字很有趣，意思是“白色的鼻尖”。这里有一处卡惹拉冰川，距离公路非常近，下车走上一个小土坡它已经在眼前了。我第一次和冰川如此近距离的接触，真把它仔细看了够，冰峰、冰谷、冰舌、冰塔林，晶莹的冰雪在阳光下泛着幽蓝的光。这些年气候变暖，冰川已经缩小很多，也许不久它就会完全消失。
上午这一程，给我留下最深刻映像的不是羊湖风光，而是环境的破坏。西藏不是净土，这里的自然条件比较恶劣，生态环境也更加脆弱，一旦被破坏，恢复是十分艰难的。真希望每个游人在欣赏美景的同时也能关爱疲惫的自然。尘土追逐着我们的车轮，午饭时候我们赶到了江孜。
5．2 英雄城江孜
江孜地处拉萨和日喀则之间，是西藏第三大的市镇，许多印度来的货物也从乃东运到这里集散，于是江孜纵横南北，沟通东西，成了商业大镇。同时又位于后藏平原，也是产粮大镇。正因为地理位置特殊，两次抗击英国入侵的战役都发生在这里，涌现出许多英雄的故事。电影《红河谷》就以这里的故事为背景。片尾抗英勇士点燃炸药与英军同归于尽的一段是艺术的夸张，当时藏兵们打完最后的一枪一弹就集体从宗山城堡跳崖自尽了。驱车登上宗山城堡。城堡已经破败，残存的遗迹昭示着历史。
西藏的统治结构以“宗”为单位，整个藏区共分十八个宗，相当于省或者县。江孜就是其中之一，每个宗都有一座城堡，江孜的宗山城堡就是其中保存相对完好并对外开放的一个。从远处看宗山城堡，有点布达拉宫的味道。传说建造宗山城堡时，宗主的确派工匠到拉萨摹仿布达拉宫，可惜这个工匠是在一个萝卜上雕刻的模型，等他返回江孜的时候萝卜干了，于是模仿出来的城堡就成了现在这个样子。这个传说很不足信，宗山城堡虽然体量较小，但气势上一点也不比布达拉宫逊色。想来将宫殿、庙宇建筑在山上的风格是西藏的通例，这样有效的加强了政权和神权的威严。沿着宽大的石板台阶慢慢上行到炮台，从这里四围一望的确险的可以，可能是因为太险要了，敌人攻不上来，自己的运输队也上不来了，当然敌我力量过于悬殊，最后也只能是弹尽粮绝可歌可泣了。如今硝烟早就散尽，眼底下是望不到边的良田，一片金黄充满着收获的喜悦。
当年的农奴是无法享受这份丰收喜悦的。在帕拉庄园（目前唯一开放的农奴主的庄园）我看到了农奴悲惨的生活境遇。帕拉庄园的主人是十四世达赖喇嘛的传令官和卫队长，他们家里还出过噶伦（西藏地方政府执政官，共有四个，三俗一僧），可以说是达官显贵。帕拉庄园是他们家十几处庄园中最大的一个。庄主夫妻两人，住在一幢三层的藏式楼房内，里面的布置仍保持着庄主随达赖喇嘛出逃时候的样子，有许多器物都是当时从英国进口的，比如点心、烟酒，还有一双旱冰鞋。藏式的房屋大多阴暗狭窄，这里也是一样，只有一间佛堂和日光室还比较象样，但比起农奴们的住房那简直就是天堂了。帕拉庄园周围村子就是一个朗生村，所谓朗生，就是家养奴隶的意思。现在还保存着一个当年的朗生大院，大院里住几十家上百口人，院子周围一圈都是大小不一的土房，非常低矮，即使在室内也无法直立。只有结婚生子的奴隶家庭才可以住进这样的小土屋，其他奴隶则睡在院子里。朗生大院和庄主大院之间仅隔着一条土路，却隔着两个世界。
在江孜最值得一看的还是白居寺。白居寺在西藏很特别，它不属于某个教派所独有，而是四个教派共有。寺内各个教派的喇嘛僧人和平共处，遇到大事则在错钦大殿中协商解决。一派平和喜乐的景象。寺庙中野狗也占上了这份福气，到处都看得见它们在懒洋洋地晒太阳，可能是酥油吃多了，一点都没有野狗的颓废像，反而油光光的很强健。可惜寺庙曾被英国军队毁坏过，主供佛像大菩提佛身上的包金全被剥光。不过错钦大殿中一堂佛像还是很棒，十六罗汉，四方菩萨，三世佛祖均采用木雕，而且造型古朴优美，很有印度和尼泊尔的风格，与中土的佛像完全不同，中土的佛像大多端然稳坐宽袍大袖，这些佛像身材婀娜丰乳肥臀，闪烁着人性的光芒。此外白居寺的十万佛塔也很有特色，佛塔底座五层四门十六面成方型，上部四层为圆形，顶部为镏金光明顶。走进塔内，共有一百零八个门，每个门内都有一组佛像泥塑，并在所有的墙壁上都绘有壁画，天常日久岁月留痕，徜徉其间细细审视仿佛走进了佛的世界历史的长河。听僧人说整个佛塔共有十万个神佛的塑像和画像，是否真有那么多无法点查，但确实林林总总各有千秋。
白居寺和宗山城堡比邻而居，是江孜城的骄傲，当我们的车在平原上奔驰出很久以后，仍然可以望见它们。历史就是历史，那过去的岁月已经匆匆而逝；而现实的生活永远在继续，农民们开着载满青稞的拖拉机奔驰在通往日喀则的路上，愉快地唱着歌。我更热爱这美丽的丰收的秋天。
5．3 赶上扎什伦布寺的人潮
西藏地广人稀，很难碰到人潮汹涌的场面，在日喀则的扎什伦布寺却被我遇上了，这当然要感谢十一的长假。四面八方的游客把偌大的寺庙挤的满满腾腾。对于要摄影的我来说这可不是好消息。只得收好相机，努力跟着人流往来于佛殿之间。
日喀则是后藏的中心，扎什伦布寺是日喀则的中心，扎什伦布寺的中心则是班禅喇嘛。班禅全称班禅额尔德尼，意思是大智慧，原先只知道达赖是西藏的政治领袖，其实班禅在历史上与达赖的地位不相上下。根据牙含章所著的《达赖喇嘛传》和《班禅额尔德尼传》，达赖和班禅历代互为师徒，分别统治着前藏和后藏。但九世班禅时期，达赖喇嘛在英国人的支持下逼迫班禅离开西藏流亡内地，从而成为了真正的西藏之王。一九五一年和平解放西藏后，班禅重新回到了日喀则，也恢复了流亡前的政治地位。历史风流云散，英雄总被雨打风吹去，今天不论是布达拉宫还是扎什伦布寺都已经成为人民心中的圣殿，是属于全体教众和游客的。
站在扎什伦布寺的广场，看层层殿宇次第上升，特别是四座佛殿格外引人注目。从左到右依次是：强巴佛殿、十世班禅灵塔殿、四世班禅灵塔殿、五世到九世班禅合葬灵塔殿。这四座佛堂红墙鲜艳，金顶灿烂。与其它三座灵塔殿不同，强巴佛殿里面供奉着一尊铜制强巴佛像，是九世班禅主持修建的。整个佛殿共有五层，四周墙壁画满强巴佛像，两条长经幡从殿顶一直垂到地面。铜强巴佛端座在九品莲台之上，宝相庄严，珠环翠绕，金碧辉煌，通高十几米，堪称数一数二的大铜佛。强巴佛就是内地所称的弥勒佛，也就是未来佛。西藏的佛像都是法相，头带毗卢冠，而内地的弥勒佛总是坦腹大笑的样子。绕佛一周更感叹西藏人民的艺术和技艺。可惜参观的人实在太多，我被拥进佛殿，又被挤出佛殿，匆匆与佛别过，只好敲一下门口的铜铃知会菩萨一声：我来了，我走了。
三座灵塔殿比邻而居，四世班禅灵塔殿处在中间也是唯一的历史遗迹。可能四世班禅在后藏人民的心中地位特别崇高，他的灵塔殿在文化大革命中被保存了下来，在西藏历史上四世班禅的确也功绩非凡而且为人谦和受到广泛的爱戴。本来五世到九世班禅都有自己独立的灵塔殿，可惜在文革中尽数被毁，灵塔中的干尸也被红卫兵小将们拖出来丢在河里，干尸遇水就烂成许多碎块，被周围的善良民众拣到家里供奉起来。后来十世班禅修建五世到九世班禅合葬灵塔，重新把百姓家里的遗骸收集起来葬在一起，算是功德圆满。不幸的是十世班禅在举行五世到九世班禅合葬灵塔开光仪式后第三天就圆寂了，于是在四世灵塔殿的左侧建起了十世班禅灵塔殿。班禅灵塔与达赖灵塔造型上有不同，达赖灵塔是菩提塔，而班禅灵塔是神降塔，区别在于班禅灵塔多一架梯子，传说释迦牟尼佛圆寂后又重新顺着梯子从天而降普度众生。另一个区别是班禅灵塔为银制而达赖灵塔为金制，只有十世班禅灵塔是个例外为金塔，而且比所有达赖的灵塔都大。
日喀则市是上海和山东援建的，参观完扎什伦布寺我就在市区里转转，不知道为什么一看到上海广场和上海大厦，马上就有了一种想家的感觉。日喀则的工艺品市场值得去看看，比拉萨八角街容易砍价，一些银制的工艺品做工也更好，可以收藏，日喀则附近的拉孜所出的藏刀特别有名。这里是海拔最高的城市，也是与天最近的城市，夜晚我静坐在窗前看星空，真美啊！群星闪烁，分外明亮。在天幕中流动的星河里，我努力寻找着属于自己的那一颗。
６、 渡过雅鲁藏布江
（图名：雅鲁藏布江中流；桑耶寺错钦大殿；桑耶寺佛塔）
我在西藏去的最后一个地区是山南，却是西藏历史最为悠久的地区。传说中西藏人的祖先是猕猴和罗刹女的后代，而山南的猴子山就是这个传说的发源地。如今山南地区区委所在地——泽当——在藏语中的意思就是“猴子戏耍的地方”。这里有西藏的第一座宫殿——雍布拉康，第一块青稞地，第一座藏王墓，还有第一座佛法僧三宝俱全的寺庙——桑耶寺。我的山南之行的重点就是桑耶寺。
佛教如今在蒙、藏地区占统治地位，但在藏王松赞干布（及以前）时代却盛行着原始的“苯教”。苯教一度是吐蕃的国教，起源于原始人类对自然的崇拜。由于政治的需要，统治者逐渐引入了佛教。佛教与苯教的斗争，实际上就是统治阶级政治斗争的反映。松赞干布和文成公主建起了大昭寺，用来供奉佛像却不供养僧人，所以还不是真正意义上的佛教寺庙。直到松赞干布的孙子赤松德赞请来尼泊尔的莲花生大师传法，兴建起桑耶寺并收取七名弟子开始，西藏的佛教才有了第一座佛法僧三宝俱全的寺庙。说桑耶寺为藏传佛教的祖庭一点也不过。桑耶寺名字的由来也很传奇，传说赤松德赞最先请来宏法的是印度的寂户大师，但寂户大师经念不错法力却没有几分，根本不是苯教巫师的对手。他设计并主持修建的寺庙总是不能成功，刚造起来就坍塌。于是他赶忙介绍莲花生大师给赤松德赞。所谓莲花生就是说他真是从一朵莲花中诞生的，来头不一样，手段自然不同。莲花生大师一进藏就和众多苯教巫师一一斗法，全藏到处都留下了战斗的遗迹，诸多苯教神魔统统被收服反到成了佛教的护法神。在莲花生大师站稳脚跟后重新开始修建寺庙，而且先在手心中幻化出寺庙建成后的模样，估计赤松德赞从来没有见过这么“高科技”的玩意儿，于是惊呼一声：“桑耶！”，其实就是“啊呀！”，这样建成的寺庙就干脆以“桑耶”为名了。
去桑耶寺有两条路，一条是从甘丹寺徒步翻山，一条是从泽当渡过雅鲁藏布江，我选择的是后者。趁天没亮我先赶到雍布拉康准备拍摄日出景象，可惜碰上了阴天只好放弃，调头直奔桑耶渡口，却看见太阳露出了头，真是郁闷。幸好碰上了一家好心的藏族人答应让我挤进他们包的船，这样就避免了我和船夫为包船而讨价还价了（据说这里的船夫很“黑”），心情也转情了。木船可不管我的心情怎样，“突突突……”地起锚开航。
雅鲁藏布江是西藏的母亲河，在这里也的确象个慈祥的母亲，宽阔而平缓，静地几乎没有波浪。真想不到在大峡谷，她却换成了愤怒汹涌的另一种模样。这里的渡船其实就是一艘木船外加一个拖拉机用的柴油发动机，开的很缓，渡河要用一个小时左右。我独立船头，凭河临风，看一江水去，两岸山来，悠悠然忘了南北东西，只任心中花开花落。坐在船舱中的藏族一家人已是四世同堂，共同到桑耶寺来朝佛。一问得知他们也是首次去桑耶寺，据说藏族人一生要到桑耶寺三次，死后灵魂才会认识去天国的路，看着他们我感受到什么是虔诚。
我对桑耶寺的兴趣则是它独特的建筑风格。整个寺庙设计成一座坛城，正中的乌策大殿呈四方三层象征着世界的中心，四角建四个佛塔各成一色代表着东南西北四大部洲，还有四座小的佛塔意思是春夏秋冬，并在东西两侧还建着一个日殿和一个月殿，在外由一个圆形的铁围墙，不是真的铁墙只是称作铁墙，在佛经中代表着世界的边界，围墙上每隔一米建一座小白塔，又在四面各开一个门。这样的建筑完全按照佛经中极乐世界的坛城样子建造，坛城一般是铜铸石雕，或者沙堆纸画，象这样切切实实建成寺庙摆在世人面前的倒不多。全世界这样的寺庙共有两处，一个在印度，一个就是桑耶寺。乌策大殿也很特别，殿分三层，最下一层是藏式，中间一层为汉式，而最上一层却成了印度尼泊尔的风格，于是它的金顶也与众不同。这样一座传说中的寺庙令我心驰不已。
渡过雅鲁藏布江，再坐一程拖拉机，一边吃着尘土一边欣赏途径的村落，颠簸着到了桑耶寺。见面不如闻名，我对桑耶寺的第一眼印象并不很好，主要是因为在乌策大殿旁建起了一栋招待所和几家小餐馆，破坏了桑耶寺建筑群的整体风格，而这恰恰是桑耶寺最值得称道的特色。把这些碍眼的建筑摆在铁围墙的外面就好多了。我并没有急着步入大殿，而是顺着四方型的转经道先看了一圈。这条转经道包围着乌策大殿，上下两层，下层是整齐布置的转经筒和壁画长卷，上层是僧舍，格局与大昭寺完全相同。我一个个的抚过黄铜的转经桶，木制的手柄被岁月磨的溜光，配合着墙壁上古老而班驳的壁画，很和谐。顺着木梯上到二层，感觉大不相同。每间僧舍的房门都是一样的，门口种植的盆花各有各的不同，三三两两的僧人在走廊上晒着太阳读着佛经，也是一份和谐。我很莽撞地询问他们是否会说汉语是否愿意做我的导游，他们微笑地示意听不懂我的话，直到我找到格桑次仁。
遇到格桑次仁的时候他正在读一本地理书，好象是中学的课本，汉语的，这让我很感兴趣。当我向他发出邀请，他稍微犹豫一下点点头答应了。格桑的脚步很快，跟着他我走进了乌策大殿汉式的二楼。所谓汉式，其实就是斗拱的结构，这里的斗拱还很老式，辅助支撑的柱子还有，在内地古建筑中这样的柱子已不多见而是蜕变成了“牛腿”（一种支撑屋檐作用的建筑构件）。大殿曾经被毁，里面的佛像是后添的，观赏的意义不大。接着我们一起上了三层，三层是印度和尼泊尔样式的，但在室内也感觉不出来什么，只是觉得很低矮，象个阁楼。格桑让我低着头围着当中二十一根木柱转三圈，二十一根木柱象征着二十一位度母，转上三圈可以永保平安。入乡随俗，我弓着腰围着柱子转，一抬头就撞到了楼顶，怪疼的，旁边的格桑看着直笑。转完三圈我们又从另一边返回二层，格桑带我走进一间很小的密室，里面只有一个宝座和一个佛龛。这里原来是达赖喇嘛在桑耶寺时住的地方，宝座也是他的。佛龛里供着的不仅有佛像还有拐杖、石头、脚印和其他法器，据说这些都是莲华生大师的遗物，也是桑耶寺的宝贝。乌策大殿的一层是藏式佛殿的传统风格，我们到的时候恰好赶上有信徒为主供的大光明如来布施涂金。一个工人站在梯子上用毛笔蘸着金粉细细地在菩萨脸上描画，几名僧人站在佛像前念经祈福，许多信徒跪在佛像脚下把头埋进成堆的哈达里，场面神圣肃穆，一个女子跪在旁边嘤嘤地哭。仪式比较长，我悄悄退出去看两个僧人在一角制作酥油花，格桑说明天桑耶寺要召开一个法会，酥油花就是为法会准备的。酥油花的制作完全是手工，僧人们在冷水中把酥油捏出造型，一层一层地贴在模具架子上，通常五、六朵为一组。酥油花的题材很多样，大多是花卉，也有飞禽走兽，甚至人物生活的，青海塔而寺的酥油花制作最出名。我称赞制作酥油花的僧人手艺好，格桑把我的赞美翻译给他们听，他们摇摇头示意这些并不出色，就带我到一间佛堂中打开一架木橱给我看，里面摆放着更大型更丰富的酥油花造型，非常精湛。走出大殿，格桑告诉我在藏历新年的时候才是酥油花制作最好的时候，那时候忙起来几乎每个僧人都要参与到酥油花的制作中。
格桑的佛学知识很渊博，汉语说的非常好，碰到他真是幸运。介绍完桑耶寺格桑把我带到了他的宿舍。宿舍很小，里外两间一套，外间是厨房，里间是卧室。所有的陈设都很简单，格桑说这里所有的家具摆设都是他的父母所布施。桑耶寺名声虽大但交通不便，信众虽多但布施不丰，所以寺院不富裕，只能提供僧人住宿，至于吃穿用度都要依靠僧人自己家来解决。格桑是初中毕业后出家为僧的，出家完全是因为对佛教的信仰，八年来他已经修完显宗开始学习密宗了。我问他为什么读地理书，他说想有一天能够到处走走看看。他们的日常生活非常简单，吃饭、念经和睡觉，除此无它。作为感谢，我把自己的许多旅游经历讲给他听：白山黑水、江南丝竹、七彩云南、塞外戈壁……他听的分外认真，真诚地希望他的愿望能够早日实现。
告别格桑，也告别桑耶寺，再次渡过雅鲁藏布江。江水仍然滔滔，青山依旧隐隐，似乎什么都没有改变，只有我的心中增加了许多的记忆。
７、 感受阳光（图名：雅鲁藏布江岸边）
人快乐的时候，时间就逃地特别快，觉得自己才刚刚来，已经到要走的时候了。
这些日子里，我行色匆匆地走过西藏的拉萨、日喀则、山南、林芝和那曲地区，领略了雪域高原奇伟而瑰丽的自然风光，古老而神秘的文化遗存，朴实而亲切的民俗民风。所经所见的一切都让我迷恋而沉醉。在玛吉阿玛餐厅里我度过了在西藏的最后一个夜晚，翻阅着厚厚十多本的旅游者留言，无数画面在我的脑海中回闪。当我提笔想在留言簿上写些什么的时候，所思所感纷纭杂乱无从下手。
西藏到底在我的心目中是什么呢？是大昭寺，是布达拉宫，是那木错，是雅鲁藏布江，还是我在西藏结识的朋友们呢？是又不是，他们太具体。在来之前朋友告诉我：在西藏你可能找到天堂，在西藏你可能发现理想，这些我都没有体会到，他们太抽象。西藏真的在我心中留下了什么呢？推开窗望出去，想从窗外寻找答案：八角街熙熙攘攘的人流、暮色中大昭寺的背影，老城区闪烁的灯火，天幕中渐渐清晰起来的星辰……总觉得似乎少了什么。少了什么呢？我努力地想、努力地想，终于发现的确少了一样东西，那就是西藏无处不在的阳光。突然我明白，原来西藏在我的心中就是那一团明亮祥和的阳光。
西藏的阳光是具体的：
每天照在我的身上暖洋洋，感受阳光让我幸福；
每天照在寺庙顶上金灿灿，感受阳光让我崇拜；
每天照在雪山尖上白亮亮，感受阳光让我开朗；
每天照在江水浪上明闪闪，感受阳光让我欢畅；
西藏的阳光是抽象的：
那阳光是西藏神奇的传说，感受阳光让我沉醉；
那阳光是西藏悠远的文化，感受阳光让我痴迷；
那阳光是西藏动人的风景，感受阳光让我留恋；
那阳光是西藏善良的人们，感受阳光让我回忆；
经历沉淀为记忆，记忆书写成文字，文字传播着感受。我的朋友，请您和我一起感受阳光。
(End)
作者：KANGKANG1975
