They say, do not Ali, not been to Tibet.
They said that Ali's visit can only use two words to describe: Dream.
Suitable for their dreams of people.
I hit the road before we know the dreams were so many people.
(A)
Heart of Tibet has always been a dream, doing for too long, they did not remember whether Hsu had dreams of their own commitments. The dreams for the season set in 2002, I do not know the long-term desire, or impulse.
Does not always delay. Have been very dangerous, I can actually trip to Tibet and standing arrangements for the affairs of ordinary excursion plan to work together on the calendar to measure calculations show that fast did not know had a dream look.
Come along, taking advantage of Tibet there is a little vague admiration.
Of gold in September to leave her. I started at least six months in the unit spread rumors: I'm going to Tibet啦! The purpose is to let the leadership know that I am determined to make things difficult when you do not - although I know this is going to share my work colleagues is not enough loyalty.
And also to harden their resolve.
By August, almost everyone knows I'm going to Tibet, and meet with surprise and asked how do you not go. Look at the posterior has been extinguished, and I finally began to seriously inquired about Tibet travel information.
In fact, I was not clear on the concept of Tibet, I thought I can only in Lhasa, Shigatse-turn.
And then saw Ali information.
Everything on the decision. Dream look back. Although in this before I did not know Ali, where I do not know Ali is a city or a region, or even do not know Ali belongs to Tibet.
But now, Ali is Tibet, Tibet is Ali.
Ali decided to found a big problem: As a separate trips have become accustomed to the free, and did not think it is very difficult to Ali, one of Sheung Road. Tibet was originally and very routine trip to the eyes, I shouted for so long failed to impress others, it is evident. So the old way would have been intended by his own fly past, even walk around in Lhasa, Shigatse, and how to say is on the snow-covered plateau ah.
But I am Ali, love at first sight, so how can I do? There can not fly, shuttle is not fixed, I do not have to be so leisurely time waiting. I've been a long time not to deal with travel agencies for help, only to find Ali is so remote, there is no travel agents to ensure that there are a sufficient number of a corporation - although this basic need is three to four.
Even long-distance telephone call to the same travel agency in Lhasa answer. Down has been haunted by buzzing echo microphone, I am somewhat confused: Is it so give it up?
Mix the first to find, day and night to soak on the web.
This found that Ali so popular, the original Ali tourism in 2002, the original Tibetan Year of the Horse in 2002, to a letter from Ali Mt Zhongqiang endless.
The strange thing is the context in such a busy fellow, I actually can not find companions. Many people want to go to Ali, many people and contact me, but our time, Sheung way, the specific schedules and routes are always there are some details of the differences. No one seems willing to accommodate my plan, and I seemed reluctant to change a little bit.
Only later did I discover, to Ali, who has not a few not so stubborn. Or, it was a dream, how to complete this dream, each person has their own way of fantasy. Who is willing to let others modify their own dream, who have the ability to influence other people's dreams come true?
Sitting on the plane to fly to Chengdu, the mood was very calm. Shuangliu Airport in Chengdu to see many, like me, carrying a large backpack looks very professional visitors, and some on the outside is also stuffed with moisture-proof pads and tents, sleeping bags, we know that Tibet has left me far away.
Must be in Chengdu Zhuyi Ye. This is an exclusive monopoly of Lhasa, Southwest Airlines routes a result, passengers have no choice. I settled in the hotel after the city first thing is to get tickets in advance through the leadership that is the relationship between the care of a friend set out in Chengdu. The friend said polling had been very nervous, but fortunately booked in advance, otherwise we can not time to Lhasa to Ali's plan was probably wasted.
, Before arriving in Tibet, Tibet has been a difficult feeling.
Internet users a day to Chengdu, the next day with a flight to Lhasa. After a two-hour flight, close to Gonggar Airport. Through the plane window, see the following towering mountains, distant mountains still capped with snow, we know that Tibet to the plateau to the mountain homeland to the world's third pole is up.
Feet foot Gongga airport moment, and not tell what kind of mood. This is Tibet, which is in Lhasa, which is what I did for many years dream Mody?
September wind, cool but not biting. We stood very small apron, waiting for the doors to open into the airport. Gonggar airport is small, surrounded by mountains, navy's. Distance faint white mountain. Such an environment, no one would suspect that it is in Tibet.
Many people in the excitement camera, it must be early plateau.
My companions, as a right. "Is there something?" "No."
Lhasa, I came. Altitude sickness? No way.
Gonggar Airport may be the world's farthest away from the city airport, 90 kilometers away, a half-hour to get to. However, the scenery along the Brahmaputra is really good, pale green waves of the river Shiba, sometimes meandering, such as jade belt, sometimes flat, such as shop Kam. There is a particularly good color, green river quietly flowing, bright red plants riverside paved the way, there have been extended to the distant poplars, cone tree full body suit of armor is a bright-yellow or red leaves. This is a unique autumn colors, the colors of Tibet in September. I can not help, take off the sunglasses, because I do not want a layer of dark-colored glass, this strong and weakening the pure color.
Peer to actually playing sleepy. He said the landscape of the future will be so beautiful. Later proved, he said, is not very right.
Tibetan women in the river along the way to see the laundry, next to the innocent children, naked bathing in a river. Only later did I know, the shower two days before the holiday began.
In the middle of the river farther, I saw the leather was rowing boats and boat people. Travel books at the moment a little bit of text into a true picture of the present, so I am not sure, I'm really into Tibet had.
Lhasa is really a special city. Foreigners more people than the Chinese, Tibetans than Han Chinese. Everywhere on the streets to see the transfer begin to walk in through the tube, especially a reservoir serving the old Aunt. The strange thing is that many people here, dogs, and sometimes see the same people who brought the two of Prayer wheel single-handedly pull puppy, white pekinese, very strange mix.
Days always blue, clouds are white. Especially in the past from the days of the plateau's sake bar, spacious feeling of the sky in particular, do not be able to see a similar rise. My favorite Natiao street in front of the Potala Palace, standing on one looked, according to a strict perspective effect of the street further away gradually closed, and in the splendid Potala Palace and the plateau above the city is a vast limitless blue sky, very blue is very blue, and blue was completely pure, bright and have a high degree. Large white clouds on blue sky, the magnificent, like special effects in Hollywood movies produced by convective clouds pavement from the high days of feeling. Incomparable atmosphere.
At night it will rain, and sometimes last until dawn. But the sun came out, the entire city is warm, and sometimes very hot at noon. However, a significant drop in the evening the temperature on the plateau of the climatic characteristics. The first day I simply did not fall asleep at night, my mind still looms a bit of pain, thinking that the excitement caused by the road, and then I should be the symptoms of altitude sickness. But the next day is still as lively as ever, but since has had no sleep-case scenario. The so-called altitude sickness, in my impression that only three obvious symptoms. In addition to Lhasa, the first night of insomnia, that is, in Lhasa on 1st Dayton because of the stairs before dinner resulted in a hurry points a few minutes the feeling of dizziness as if drunk.
Then there's that had to Namco.
Nam Co, "Heaven Lake" means, one of Tibet's three holy lakes. This is truly the days of Lake, to reach 4718 meters above sea level, is the world's highest lake. Qinghai Lake, as second only to the country's second largest saltwater lake in the broad boundless self-evident. Light green vastness of the lake, clear, cold tentacles. 4 Xue-Feng Zhou surrounded by the whole environment there is a beautiful and peaceful atmosphere.
There are many lake gravel base up in a small heap. This is my place in Tibet was quite puzzled and possession of land often have strong winds, strong winds blowing from Department streamer fluttering manner, but even the smallest stone base up in the smallest Mani Dui, they were not blowing nothing. Or, this is brought about miracles pious.
Nam Co in Damxung County, from Lhasa in the past, usually chartered several people. We spent a few days in Lhasa to Ali, the matters have not been implemented, wants to go to Ali, before the meet about - after all, is only 3,700 meters above sea level in Lhasa, but Ali is the "roof of the world's roof," an average elevation of the entire region are in more than 4,000 meters. Decided to first go to Namco.
Luck that day in particular, can be said that it can be said Qi Jia Qi bad, hit the "mountain has four seasons, ten-mile different days," the scenery. In the night after the rain, dawn and piercing winds of Lhasa, the first time I wore a down jacket. Departure, and days has always been gray, and no blue sky and clouds usually chic style. We Damxung lunch, fried barley with a particular fragrance, but I looked at the gray days, thinking cloudy, Namco look nice? This car has a number of companions is to stay there to watch the sunrise, so do the days to see the sunrise?
Surprisingly, noon, and days and gradually opened. The more driving in the car along the higher mountain, we can already see the distance like a jade belt, Namco, and everyone is excited. After 5200 meters of the Nyainqentanglha pass, the driver to stop let us down camera. It was about as bright bright sun, pass wind so big, cold, straight through my down jacket, so to speak, let me curled. There is a great Mani Dui, five-colored streamer hung a long way, the wind drift. Later I discovered that whenever a big pass in Tibet have such a large-scale Mani Dui, it seems that can be used as a symbol to determine pass, while the pass wind, usually will be very, few exceptions.
Nam Co Lake in front of us around for a long time before we arrived in front of her. Then dark clouds have been dispersed, the sun warm and genial, really be wonderful, but the. We are here to stay two or three hours to see the distant sky gradually clouds gather again. Go back on the bus and began the sky was calm, and later went so far as it began to snow coming! Suddenly, the car window, Castle Peak were all turned into a vast expanse of whiteness. Suddenly, outside the ring snapping sound as if there are stones in beating the windows. Under the hail of! Days, in this life I hail the second time to see it.
So just-do, called the driver to stop, and we have go on with the hail, "a group photo taken." That is not really large hail, but it hit your face like the hurt body, each is a photograph of a hurry, they also quickly climbed the car. Did not have, snapping the voice ceased, replaced by intermittent rain. Rain they have not as long, clear sky again. Mountain snow began to melt quickly, well looked ridge threw a piece of the Pied Piper of mottled.
Because of a weather incident, way back in the face of the auto insurance quagmire situation. Narrow road in front of the car stuck in the mud could not walk, the latter also can not move forward. It took a good series of setbacks, our car stalled in front of it to bypass the convoy continued on our way. Namco trip to the weather and road conditions, let me right after Ali's trip has been more specific psychological preparation.
The time has been spent a few days in Lhasa, the Potala Palace has been panting to climb, and that has overcome altitude sickness, in fact in the 5200 meters of the Nyainqentanglha Yamaguchi had not felt, in the Nam Co although there a little bit of a headache, thinking much better than this. Who would have thought way back in the headache worsened, and his forehead like a man with a fist, beat off like, I have come to realize that the plateau 1,000 meters every 100 meters or there really a threshold.
Fortunately, I got the car close to Lhasa to ease a headache, then was almost completely disappear. At this time, I saw the car window a few flash knock long head of the shadow.
"Stop!" Companion has been pre-empt cried. I have some hesitation, with others, I would also like to go to their pictures, but feel that this impetuous, seemed to give some money to be good and do not know for how many do not know these pious Tibetans would not accept it. Asked the driver, the driver just waved me down.
I hesitated to give the lead ten dollars, he took over, but also bent a waist to me. It is a natural attitude I sighed with relief, we immediately retreated to the roadside, called stupefied on the ground that they continue, then we pops to press the shutter.
Two adults, two children, hands tied insole, waist surrounded by rubber ring under the step by a vote of five bodies, the steps to strict action norms, and even the two children had done meticulously. Drivers say that they are a family of four, from Nagqu come, they should go to the Potala Palace. Alas, they are such a step in a creeping walk from Nagqu Lhasa? They have walked many days?
Just remember the snow when sharp-eyed person can see the snow-covered steep cliff there are two slowly moving shadows, dressed in long braids pulled skirt Pulu Tibetan women began to have a kind of nation hard to explain feeling.
Lhasa.
Pure play, then this city do not take too long. So the total is only about a few spots, the Potala Palace, Drepung Monastery, Sera Monastery, Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street, Norbu Lingka, we all went, and also one or two days of work. For are not familiar with Tibetan Buddhism is not very interested in people, most of the temples are roughly the same, even if the temporary brush up some of the temple's religious significance, I am afraid it will be seen a lot of confusion.
However, there are still reasons to look at.
Potala Palace goes without saying, this looks from the red and white of the "split-level grid" consisting of the construction status of high, making those who come to Lhasa, the general can not be bypassed. Fabric Palace is a treasure palace, although many treasures are not ordinary people can understand. As the Golden Palace is probably the fabric under the sun, one could see the direct wealth. The light is not how good a palace, the Dalai Lama in gold, silver, pearls, agate, coral and a variety of precious stones to build up the pagoda, tens of thousands of volumes of precious historical documents, Buddhist classics, probably would be difficult to estimate the value of a.
Palace gave me a cloth in any case too heavy feeling, perhaps after entering the room who felt very close. In contrast, I think the layout is much more simple and open, the Jokhang Temple is more intimate, and perhaps think of Princess Wen Cheng of the reason. The Jokhang Temple in Barkhor Street, from the second floor looking down, can see the pious believers kowtowing, but also can be seen bustling with buyers and sellers, so the Jokhang Temple takes on a somewhat more plain belongs to this world.
To the Drepung Monastery and Sera Monastery, more share of religion in order to feel the atmosphere. Drepung morning to go to catch up with the collective chanting monks. Knelt by the huge hall where a lot of row wearing a red cassock of the monks chanted in unison that we did not understand the scriptures, complete set of tourists around the camera and camera guns regardless. Some young monks watching us, tourists, a serious expression on his face was chilly, and I think they thought had flew into the solemn and sacred land of another bar.
Sera Monastery in the afternoon to go, but also directed at debates on time. This is the morning and feel completely different experience. One area is not large in a small courtyard, planted a few trees. Lamas in twos and threes laughing and joking together to gradually come in, soon formed a small circle, began to warm debate upon. Questions raised by monks are usually very excited and very rich facial expressions. They often do a classic "to help potential" action: the legs before and after the inter-opened, a Yang-body backward, and then quickly rushed companion sitting on the ground in front of crisp, powerful clap their hands. The people sitting on the floor looked up and looked at him, eyes so clear and focused. Concentrate on their answers to his question, and sometimes will turn into a heated debate, both red in the face, but suddenly will blossom pleasant smile. I could not understand a word, the voice of a Danjuewuwa crowded.
Most people have invested in the fierce debate the scriptures, but there are a few of us turned around and looked at one side to watch the tourists, apparently this is a deserted. In fact, the debate after debate in a free manner of the Buddhist work, no wonder most of the monks are young, some are still in school. There are also some look older and, perhaps nearly qualification, maintenance for many years yet Shengban, but the debates themselves whole-heartedly, like, when conscious of the Buddhist understanding is correct, the face smiles like a child-like innocence, like. I think they are really cute.
Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama's "Winter Palace", Norbulingka is "Palace." Linca in fact the park, Lhasa is not a lot of green city, so this tree-lined park has become a tour of the office can be. Inside Gesang, gold, Ming and a long three palaces, namely, "rather chapter", which is quite a long time to next chapter of the most magnificent, also known as the new Temple is built by the current Dalai Lama 14.
Barkhor in Lhasa after the same is to have a place to go, though to where I found really aroused my desire to purchase something not many. But I still bought two knives and a lot of jewelry. In fact, these crafts is not the possession of land may be produced, but after all I was buying in Tibet, and the price really cheap - of course, can be harsh choice to bargain in the circumstances. This is not difficult to see where the stall owners desperately to persuade customers posture, we know that apart from the seller is a Tibetan, the goods are mostly outside the Tibetan crafts and specialties, all the way to do business with the mainland is no different - including the "Wumart inexpensive, "the opposite of boasting and practical.
Namco has a go with the girl, said she went every day during the stay in Lhasa Barkhor. This is not surprising, Lhasa own special appeal. I Hachiro school hostels to see a message which reads: "Existing and two men trapped in Lhasa, boredom, Wanted drink with like-minded friends, chat, or a trance."
I would like to, even if the trapped, but also willing. This is a long time ago people unwittingly become dependent on a sense of place. When I returned to Lhasa from Ali, a person covered with the sun in the streets of Lhasa Guangdang, we also suddenly feel that the plateau city on I had a familiar and cordial.
But before I go to Ali spent a full 56 days in Lhasa, but not my wish for.
Ali did not expect to go really hard, even if the person has come to Tibet.
And I flew to Lhasa trip with friends called Xuefeng, yes I have given up from the Internet to find peers who own the idea and is ready to leave the last minute to contact, and there is one called a pen is just the opposite was the first contact. Farmer has been insisting to come, but always engagements will be deferring the date of departure, I went to Lhasa, he phoned me waiting for him. But the next day a telephone call that dragged a week after the ticket, it seems I can not be so for him.
Ali is generally four to rent a丰田越野车. What started as a need to find one person, now looking for two people. Thought that this is not a very difficult matter, logically there should be many of both men came together. But we learn in the Hachiro hotels, Asia hotels, hostels as well as the auspicious day of those in Tibet travelers self-service bar the door at the places where tourists have come a few days, copied from the message boards a lot of contact telephone number, has also posted up a lot of note, the results of are still with me prior to departure on the Internet looking for someone similar to the situation, always a result of a specific scheme can not be exactly the same can not compromise.
Only go to Namco such as short circuits can easily find people with the car rental, Ali, after all, is too personalized lines of. That way there are so many landscapes, how to choose, not everyone has their own prior to departure and eat it.
Finally, at the urging of frequent long-distance telephone, called Xuefeng boy had to leave before the plateau peaks everywhere, he must go back to official work. I would not want this and Ali missed, so call back side of the unit of stress that I am determined to complete the journey - more than just loose a few days holiday to take one side and the fish will soon be starting a couple links - did not take long to Lhasa to meet them, and Ali travel plans and is very close to my original vision, but they are going to turn mountains, for no reason to spend two days work, my time may not be able to afford. And when we hesitate, they have a friend joined.
Fortunately, only a friend, and now I have time. Small fish that they readily accepted me. So at the last minute to find a place in time, I boarded a car bound for Ali.
I sighed with relief, secretly happy with my luck, looking forward to the upcoming dream trip.
(B)
Ali went through Shigatse, we certainly will not miss the peak of the world's largest gathering place. Moreover, as Shigatse, Tibet's second largest city in Tibet after the center itself, there are people to stay in this qualification.
From Lhasa to Shigatse, the day can reach. Walk a new path will soon be, three to four hours to go. However, the tourists had never visited here, usually take the old road, from Nagarze around to see Yangzhuoyong Lake to see if the pull card glaciers, to see baiqoi monastery of the hundreds of thousands of pagodas. Our September 16 after the early morning departure from Lhasa along this route forward.
Comfortable and fast new way better than old, winding Road winding, but the nice scenery. Yangzhuoyong Lake in my memory is a bright spot, from the hills overlooking, like to enjoy a graceful fairy lying on the peaks of the arms. Lake blue color is blue, as in fairy tales and fantasy colors. Yang Zhuo Yong is also one of the three holy lakes, meaning "Swan Lake", the lake than Namco broad Hao-miao, but the beautiful meandering arc indeed somewhat elegant swan. The car all the way down the mountain, we walk all the way around the lake, close contact with sheep crystal lake becomes all the more charming.
The snow-capped mountains and card gamba la rola glaciers have a clear impression in my memory, perhaps because it is the only way to see the first appearance of snow-capped mountains. This representation of the snowy scenery, in a later trip gradually become commonplace.
Because the "Red River Valley", visitors to the Gyangze general will have to stay, take a look at Zongshan Anti-British fort. Fort built in the mountains far, only overlooking. The ridge on the wall almost a whole mountain to the Circuit up. We never did find out at such a high and steep terrain to build a fort of local significance. Our main destination Gyangze baiqoi monastery, for which we are the Siwai road and get off at the sound of marching smashing stone and sand and dust come a long way. Baiqoi monastery looks very ordinary, the only eye-catching is the hundreds of thousands of pagodas. This tower is not high, but looked very glamorous. Temple of the Buddha is said to tower up to 100 thousand, so I believe hundreds of thousands of pagodas. I did not denta, because unless the delivery of 20 yuan camera models are not allowed to bring a camera into the court. Holding hung his companions asked me to keep the camera, I turned into the baiqoi monastery. Temple dim light, but dimly see a wall of small black square box, it is very certain years of the classics, and also verify that this set of Yellow Sect, the Red Sect, white teach, teaching of flowers, and Bon in a Buddhist temple in extraordinary power of words.
The camera I looked at some of the heavy bosom envy, in order to streamline the luggage before leaving with only one compact cameras with, I think the beauty of Tibet, even without specialized equipment, can also shoot out. The results of a left Lhasa, the camera on the bad, the film according to exhausted does not automatically rollback.
I know what this means. 1 Xigaze, the road there can be no decent towns and villages, there is absolutely no camera stores and repair of the camera this story.
Higurashi arrived in Shigatse, when, unable to see the outline of the city. After breakfast the next day straight Tashilhunpo, visiting for a long time still only cursory to read a small part of the hall, large enough to permit Mingzha Temple. I found the big temples in Tibet have a characteristic appearance is a flat horizontal asymmetrical house, is not high, like a big box up there is no base building blocks, a block of land next to comfortably loose, lying on a large land, probably Tibet, the land is large enough, can support this calmly. To enter the go, like into the maze, a temple of Buddhist temple will not be large, like are also similar with each other connectivity does not seem to like the mainland side is strict Buddhist temple, but closely fit the terrain looks like it makes one feel a natural random, in the disclosed eclectic Smart casual.
Any travel book will be an introduction of Tibet's status Tashilhunpo simply stated clearly that the Panchen Lama驻锡地. Tie Temple and the Panchen Lama, and the relationship between Shigatse, is equivalent to the Potala Palace and the Dalai Lama and Lhasa relationship. There is a belief of a nation, and this belief is divided into two sets of leading diffractive system, whenever more than one leader, there will be a variety of subtle or overt and covert interests, which in my opinion is an interesting thing. Do not know why such a simple people of faith will create a simple administrative system is so inconsistent, and perhaps this is not caused by ordinary Tibetans, I do not know. Tibetan Buddhism really is to know me, right Tashilhunpo deepest impression is that it is just like a mirror of the Potala Palace, looked golden.
Lunch continued on our way. The road is a boring, until the driver told us that in front of Nazuo flickering in the clouds and peaks is Mount Everest, we are suddenly excited, one after another off camera. In front of us far away, there is also a car tourists taking pictures, but they seem to no longer go forward. Many of the tourists hurry, and Everest's fate will come here. But we are to continue to come to Everest base camp, and it is an ordinary tourist can access the most recent from the Everest.
Memorable night at the Everest, too many for the first time.
For the first time sleeping in such a shabby room: the space between each other only four for one person to stand rough wooden bed, the bed facing the door of the foot of the bed came alive again in a door can be encountered in a simple Basin Series wood shelves, the room has had no extra space. The "floor" is a rugged dirt, if not in such a cold season (but maybe not here, not cold when the bar), I am afraid that will be stirring up dust than stomping feet past.
Without water, even cold water, wash your face with wet paper towels to solve, take a bath, of course absent. Is no fire, the basin stood a length candles, but no matches, then we have borrowed from the fire only then to others lit candles. Investigated here, no sense or not clean the quilt, sleeping bags for the first time come in handy.
This room, one bed close 40.
However, this is the foot of Mount Qomolangma, the world's highest monastery Rongbuk. People like me, how many opportunities to sleep at an altitude of 5200 meters of the place, out of the window starry, cold air infiltration in each molecule. Rare that I sleep so fragrant, altitude sickness has left me completely away. Of course, the little one "plateau health", should be considered contributed, at least gave me enough confidence, though proved a good mood is the treatment of altitude sickness is indeed the best medicine.
Start here for cell phone did not signal, here to investigate the border card, where each person has to pay 65 yuan management fee, the car has to pay 400 yuan in fees into the mountains, where no water or electricity and piercing winds, where my hands start to become a tree skin generally rough, but what relationship? This is Ali, a prelude to the truest journey, and we come here for is to look at the world's highest Mount Everest!
The first insight that the "candlelight dinner": In a ten-square-meter wooden house, put a few of the most primitive wooden long tables, each table lit 12 candles. Dozens of Chinese and foreign tourists, they crowded into this room, waiting in line here, can provide only the same dinner - noodles - a bowl from the kitchen out of a bowl of ground delivery. Dim candlelight, even the person sitting opposite face was legible. But this room who have a high spirits, they use Mandarin, Cantonese, English, French, loudly whispered conversations, it was even in the candlelight playing card to! I found a seat left by others, magazine, above all German words. Do not know that apart from the foot of Mount Everest, where else could such a small space for such a simple gathering such a high density of "United Nations forces."
Narrow space from time to time flash flash, is foreigner in the photograph. I suddenly realized that fun, pick up my camera to shoot a stretch. Result is of course is a waste, these films all exposed - in fact, if not exposed, I have no way to fool machine to capture even my eyes are dim candlelight scenes look unclear. Moreover, as the camera can not roll back the fault, I had to manually remove himself under his blanket film. This small fish known as "clutch." Everest is my first "clutch" in place, lack of experience, anxious at a time when the sun not yet down on the quilt wrapped around the camera operation; technology is poor, a full 20 minutes only then pulling the film completely pull out, exposure is inevitable in the natural.
After the "clutch" technology becoming more and more skilled, a maximum of two minutes to complete, and can be considered for this trip, a harvest. However, as in the dark make it easier to operate successfully, I was forced to end a day according to a roll of film, so the final out of the picture there are more than 400 copies, they chose not a real good photo's.
Poor living conditions, but the excellent location of our room, the window is on the Everest, is willing to do even the doors are not out, opened the window you can take pictures. But we certainly do not dormant in the room, the window only to Mount Everest blindfolded, we observed the clouds have dispersed facilitated.
Rongbuk forward to the 8 kilometers to Everest base camp. Look here is the name of the environment and its head is not proportionate, the reasons may not be climbing season, surrounded by only a few scattered tents roof. Which is actually a post by, which has a very handsome young Tibetan, as well as postcards. Junior 1 1 give us a postcard postmarked cover, a large beautiful circular postmark, he was just like they covered impartial, Everest logo and the "Tingri County, Tibet, Everest base camp," the words are very clear , but just to avoid the write place, is clearly very professional. Therefore, we are all safely postcards to him. After half a month, my postcards and I am also back to Guangzhou.
Everest base camp on a hill above the streamer and Mani Dui inserted. I did not think it looks that only 10 to board-meter-high hill so difficult, but also to the top only to find this is actually a draft, the wind rolled frighteningly large sand hit your face, I began to regret not buying a mask. The sunglasses rack, put the hat pulled down clothing is still necessary to hand firmly pressed on the head, hat will not be blown off. Fish is not up, I and two photos of a few men rushed to hurry down phase. Photos came out, I discovered that everyone has become not only the masked heroes, and even our hands up some of the streamer, but also by the wind into cloth!
This hill is the closest to Mount Everest in places, but the angle is not as good Rongbuk and Everest has been covered with dark clouds, I still hold partly concealed, that is, with no success.
But we eventually get luck on him. In the Rongbuk, we have to wait until the clouds dispersed the moment, Everest, this haughty goddess, and finally reveal the face of it is charming. But also in the sunset and sunrise is even more graceful manner showed off the body suit of armor golden Xiapei. Golden Everest so miraculous actually let me memorable. Has never been on Everest did not look like the concept of me, from a look at the picture of Mount Qomolangma will be able to accurately identify them.
Everest few sunny days, not everyone has the opportunity to run into. We had enough time to see a variety of expressions Everest, perhaps indicates that, luck, from the way it will follow us.
(C)
Tingri is a veritable mountain village, 8000 meters above there are four peaks. It is remarkable that most of them a line, and our car in the winding of the Hill hovers over this series of peaks Huzuohuyou to always appear in our field of vision, but also under the care of the fine weather is absolutely The most dazzling scenery, it is worth the murder of film. Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Everest blatantly favoring either side of the hand. Pyramid-like peaks Lhotse has a sharp, very easy to identify the extent that in some point of view will find it even higher than Mount Everest.
来西藏前正值北大学生在希夏邦马峰出事的消息传得沸沸扬扬，无形中增加了这座山峰的神秘感。希夏邦马峰在聂拉木，那是通往尼泊尔的地方，许多游客走这条线，其中不乏我们在路上见到的或单枪匹马或三五成群的骑自行车的老外。我们不去尼泊尔，不过也远远看到了希夏邦马峰。天气很好，希夏邦马看上去很安稳宁静的样子，想象不出风雪交加时的恶劣。
高原风貌苍茫辽远，阳光映照着远处的山峰，宁静的湖泊碧蓝如玉，如同一面镜子镶嵌在闪着金光的草原中。山羊跳跃，牦牛行走，黑颈鹤在草甸上从容踱步，肥肥的旱獭在荒漠和戈壁上钻洞，还有狐狸、藏羚羊和老雕，不时给我们带来惊鸿一瞥的刺激。
每天的景色都差不多，却有百看不厌的感觉。极目所至，都是茫茫大地，遥遥高天。乌鸦在天地间自由飞翔。这一路上到处都是乌鸦，有黑嘴的，红嘴的，白嘴的，每一只都很肥硕，或展翅飞翔，或从容漫步，姿态都很优游。没有人去管它们，不知道在藏人心目中这些是不是也属“神鸦”？我想，若来世不能为人，做一只生活在藏地的小鸟，也是一个不错的选择。
树木和庄稼已经很难见到，只有稀疏的野草，和高原特有的紫色红色甚至蓝色的小花。这该是高原强烈日照的产物，我爱煞这些色彩独特的高原花卉。这些花不多，而且不起眼，倘若不注意，是发现不了那些细节的美的，像清晨的高原，伏地的小花小草上会结满晶莹的白霜，可我知道它们还快乐地活着，这本身就是一件挺快乐的事。
高原的人和高原的山，高原的水，高原的花花草草也是一样的吧。这一路上除了偶尔会遇见骑马的康巴汉子和修路的道班工人外，很少见到人的踪迹。康巴汉子头上挂了个大大的白玉圈，系着鲜艳的红头绳，黝黑的脸上满是骄傲和沧桑。道班工人是隔一段路就会遇到的，去阿里的路简直不能叫路，但如果没有他们经常的整修，恐怕早就不能走了。我想这份工作也许是世界上最枯燥的，要不然他们不会在见到我们的车子时，早早就停下手中的活，等我们的车子从他们身边经过，他们就高高地扬起手，向我们挥舞着，脸上的笑容灿烂得像一朵花。我从未见过这么“礼貌”的民族，也许在这荒无人烟的地方，日复一日在寒风中挥锹的他们太渴望见到人的面孔了。但我在他们脸上见到的没有悲哀，他们的笑容那么自然，让人无法不相信他们的快乐。
有时远远的，会见到几顶藏民的帐篷，但不知道里面是不是还有人。随着季节的转换，到处迁徙，于藏民是很普通的事，别说帐篷，有时连建好的房子也不用拆。想来也有道理，人是流动的就行了，需要太多的行装吗？我们曾在路边一个藏式茶馆小憩，茶馆其实是一个小帐篷，在山脚下搭建。里面有一个中年妇人，一个十八九岁的女孩。女孩皮肤黑，但是五官很精致，她熟练地打着酥油桶，不多说话，腼腆地笑着，一种让人心动的笑。司机说这茶馆是流动的，冬天就走了，因为太冷。
司机认识她们。我们的司机叫米玛顿珠，我们叫他大哥。大哥风趣健谈，我发现这一路上的人他居然都认识，原来他每年都要往返拉萨阿里数次。一路上我会给一些藏民照相，他们有的乐意，有的勉强。一次，大哥有意无意地说：“以前经常有人给他们照相，说了会给他们，结果都没给。”我说我想给，但不知道如何送到他们手上，大哥说给他吧，他可以送到。这样的任务也能够承担，或许只在藏地有这样的事吧。
越往西走，高原气候的特点就越明显。太阳约摸8点出来，晚上8点才日落。白天阳光很明亮，中午时分还很温暖，但一入夜，寒冷就不期而至。我至今对在马拉道班过的一夜深深不忘。那本来不是计划中的住宿点，但因为我们多赶了半天的路，只好在这里住下来。道班很简陋，只有一个纺羊毛的老人，一个做饭的中年妇女，一个小孩，男人据说出去修路了。家属住的房间里，火炉上的水壶突突地冒着热水，让人感觉很温暖。女主人在酥油桶里打酥油，小鱼先生决定试一试，结果刚打了一下就把半桶酥油洒了一地。
女主人并不见怪，通过米玛大哥交代我们可以在道班工人休息的房间过夜，不过那里除了靠墙的木板条搭成的“炕”和被子，什么都没有，如果我们受不了，我们可以到她这温暖的房间来。
没有人打算再打扰。我们就在道班工人房里住了一夜。门是透风的，门外呼呼的风声一阵比一阵紧。我没想到这个在高原上孤零零的道班条件这么艰苦，夜晚是这么的冷。临睡前冒着寒风在门外的水池洗手，发现水龙头里出来的水已经被风吹得横流！而这水龙头足足开了一夜，主人交代不要关，为的是怕结冰。果然第二天早上起来，发现水池脚边已经结了一层薄冰，用手触摸那水，也跟摸一把冰刀差不多了。这是在9月，阿里最好的季节。米玛说，等到真正的冬天来临时，这个道班的人也要撤走的。
这是一路上住的最“糟糕”的一个地方，但我仍然睡得很好。反正道班里被子有的是，不管干净不干净，我在睡袋上压上三床被子，在摇曳的烛光里，同伴的读书声和外面呼啸风声的伴奏下，沉沉地睡去了。
这个地方，海拔4700米。
20日中午，经过拉拉渡口。这是途中经过的唯一的渡口，一根钢绳连接河的两岸，所谓摆渡就是利用水的流动方向将渡船一点点从此岸拖到彼岸，看起来不用一点能源，真的很环保。我们运气好，说是有军区的领导要来，渡口马上要封锁，而我们恰好赶在封锁前过了河。
随后就到了萨嘎，一个相对有点气派的大县城。所谓有点气派，是指街上的建筑多是钢筋水泥的了。虽然手机还是没信号，但在这里总算可以打长途电话。我们每个人都打了电话回家。我是如此兴奋，以致放下电话才想起忘了对父母说中秋快乐。第二天就是中秋节了，我已经连续12年没有和家人一起过中秋节，而这次是离家最远的一次。
萨嘎和帕羊可以作为阿里线上“较大的县城”和“较大的镇”的代表，二者的区别很明显，一个是钢筋水泥建筑，当然，楼房一般不超过两层；一个基本上就是建在草原边上的土坯房屋群落。帕羊最辉煌的建筑，也是唯一的钢筋水泥建筑，门前挂着武装部的牌子，里面还有篮球架。但帕羊的规模的确不是一路上零零落落的帐篷、道班能比的，尽管在那些帐篷前面就有路碑，指示这是某某“宗”，也就是某某村的意思。
在深入那片草原近距离观察那群黑牦牛以前，我登上我们住处的房顶作一番远眺，结果发现眼前赫然便是与住所紧挨的露天“房顶厕所”。这也是高原特色之一，夜半如厕，头顶便是满天星斗，只要不太冷，还是别有“风味”的。
21日，中秋节。下午经过了马攸木拉，日喀则地区和阿里地区的交界，从此就真正进入阿里了，地广人稀的圣地阿里，平均海拔在4000米以上的“世界屋脊的屋脊”。 30多万平方公里的土地上，只有6万人口。但每一年，都有络绎不绝的信徒从世界各地长途跋涉到这里朝圣，这里是印度教、藏传佛教、苯教、耆那教一致尊崇的“世界中心”。
这个世界的中心，就是神山冈仁波齐峰，许多人到阿里的唯一目的。
冈仁波齐在普兰县。阿里地貌在历史上被概括为“三围”：冰雪围绕的“普兰”、岩石围绕的“古格”、湖泊围绕的“玛宇”。过了马攸木拉，就进入普兰境内。普兰，“独毛”的意思，地位却相当超然，因为神山圣湖都在这里，普兰的吸引力无与伦比。
下午4点多，到达一个特别的经幡群，第一次见到在平地上也有这么巨大的经幡群，我有些奇怪，直到米玛大哥指着前方说：“那就是神山。”我才恍然大悟。米玛开着车，绕着经幡群转了一圈，又走下来，虔诚地朝着神山的方向跪下，深深地磕头！ ——第一次见到我们的藏族司机做这些动作，我终于明白神山在藏族人心中的地位！
神山、圣湖离得不远，在这里就可以一起远眺。这个时候，神山被大片乌云遮盖，显然正在下雪，而圣湖闪着悠悠的光，很迷人。
我们照米玛的建议，在一个叫基乌的小村子住了下来。基乌的意思是小鸡，但是五脏俱全。确实如此，这里甚至有温泉洗浴。虽然一个人要20元，浴室里湿滑的地面连青苔都有，而且低得不合情理的水龙头让沐浴成为一件颇有难度的事，但自从离开日喀则后已经连续4天没有洗澡的我们毫不犹豫地把钱交了出去。洗完出来正好碰见下冰雹，但居然不觉得冷。
基乌这地方确实不错，村子旁边有一座小山。早上，我气喘吁吁地爬上这座小山，发现小鱼先生和另外一个旅友——一路上背着长镜头和三脚架，用相机而不是用眼睛记录风景的“色驴”早就在这里了。他们的确选了一个很好的观景点，在山上举目看去，四处都是风景。一边是麻雀虽小五脏俱全的基乌小村，安安静静地在山脚躺着；一边是波光粼粼的高原湖泊，在阳光下放出迷离的色泽。就在山上，也有一两个小垭口，挂着五彩经幡，在风中猎猎地吹。山上还有一个小玛尼堆，上面端端正正放了一副牦牛头骨，我正讶异于这难得的端正，才知道这是小鱼先生刻意摆放的得意造型。
我们在山上逗留了几乎一个上午，然后回到村里吃午饭。吃完午饭，米玛没有马上出发的意思，他甚至和一个藏族小孩踢起了一个破烂的足球。我就在门口晒太阳，猛晒了好一阵，晒得整个人暖洋洋的，脑袋有些晕晕乎乎。高原的太阳很厉害，晒得我不得不低下头，把衣领翻起来护住脑袋。但我却不想走开，也许是很久很久，没有试过这种很悠闲很悠闲的感觉了，在阳光下晒着，什么都不用想的优游。
然后就出发了，先到圣湖旁边的鬼湖拉昂错。这里没有一个人，湖水在周围雪峰的映照下显得异常平静，蓝莹莹的。在地图上，鬼湖的形状就像一块狗啃的骨头，尽管和圣湖咫尺之隔，它却一直被人们所排斥。据说这里常会无风三尺浪，但是我觉得这里很宁静啊——当然，是有些阴冷。鬼湖边上是石子滩，五颜六色的石子如此漂亮，每个人都忍不住拾了一堆。后来我才发现，阿里高原上漂亮的石子到处都是，如此张狂的诱惑，对我不加重行李负担的旅游准则实在是很大的考验。
看过鬼湖，再到圣湖玛旁雍错，对比格外明显。倒不是说湖水本身有很大差别，圣湖当然很美，颜色淡蓝如美玉，四周同样围了一圈雪山，但鬼湖的风景也不遑多让。只是圣湖和鬼湖的地位实在是一个天上一个地下，作为“世界江河之母”，玛旁雍错东面有马泉河，南面有孔雀河，西面有象泉河，北面有狮泉河，而这四条河流又分别是恒河、印度河、萨特累季河、雅鲁藏布江的源头。唐玄奘在《大唐西域记》给了她“西天瑶池”的美称。和鬼湖的冷清形成鲜明对比，圣湖边热闹非凡，我们见到一大群藏族妇女正在欢欢喜喜地磕头、装圣水。而这里阳光和煦，完全没有鬼湖那种阴冷，不知道是凑巧，还是人气也给圣湖加了分。圣湖边不再是荒芜的石子地，长满了一种红色的水草。
米玛大哥在这里再次发挥幽默本色。他告诫我们，不要太贪心，圣湖的水一个人装一个小矿泉水瓶就够了。我正琢磨着这是不是很严肃的讲究，一回头发现米玛已经从驾驶室拿出了他自己准备装圣湖水的瓶子，居然是一个2升装的空可乐瓶！
在圣湖可以比较清晰地看到神山。乌云散去后的冈仁波齐，露出金字塔般的标志山形，我们甚至可以比较清楚地看到山上隐约的佛教万字符，据说那是天然形成的雪梯，的确神奇！冈仁波齐海拔仅仅6656米，山形也不见得险峻，但至今仍是一座无人征服的处女峰，足见宗教地位之崇高，毕竟，神山的地位，已经延续了4000年。
冈仁波齐距离玛旁雍错20公里。当天下午，我们就赶到了大金——神山脚下的转山起始点。
(D)
大金是音译，也叫塔钦，塔青，转神山冈仁波齐，就从这里开始。其实在我看来大金不过是一个由转山的信众和游客临时凑成的聚集点，流动的帐篷比固定的建筑还多，但因为大金特殊的意义吧，进入之前还要经过一个边检站。就跟上珠峰一样，这里收费也奇贵。米玛说老外在这里扎一个帐篷都要交120元。名气很响的冈底斯宾馆，几乎所有旅游书上都提到，但我觉得还不如一路住的藏式旅馆舒服，却要收50元一个人！同样的价位，旁边正在兴建的玛旁雍错宾馆相对还算物有所值。玛旁雍错宾馆的老板也是个摄影发烧友，和“色驴”相谈甚欢，还送了“色驴”一幅自己拍的神山冈仁波齐的镀膜照片，我在一旁也叨光得到一条链子，链坠同样是老板自己拍的神山冈仁波齐的照片。我怎么看怎么觉得这照片跟“冈底斯餐厅”墙上挂的差不多，也许神山就这模样，大家都习惯了从这个角度拍摄。 “冈底斯餐厅”跟“冈底斯宾馆”一样名过于实，只有两个四川人在操持，上菜奇慢，品种极少，味道也很普通，当然，价钱却不便宜。
反正不愁没生意，这里是永远不会冷清的神山脚下。神山冈仁波齐，是冈底斯山脉的主峰，“宝贝雪山”的意思。冈仁波齐就像一座圆形的金字塔，峰顶终年积雪，直插云霄。围绕神山转圈，据说可以消除罪孽。转山一圈，可以洗清一生的罪孽，转山十圈，可以避免下地狱；转山百圈，就可以在今生成佛升天了。而在马年转山一圈就相当于常年转13圈，也许与释迦牟尼诞生在马年有关，也许与著名的黄教、苯教大斗法的传说有关，据说黄教大师米拉日巴就是在马年和苯教大师相约神山斗法，结果用计战胜了苯教。
神山的转山道上，各种宗教的信徒加上各种目的的游客，不知道会不会像赶墟一样热闹。今年恰是马年，从大金云集的卡车、帐篷就知道人气有多旺。这样的气势会使人的兴致和勇气都大增，一直怀疑自己体力的小鱼，在最后一刻也决定加入转山的行列。而从来就无可无不可的我，在最后还是坚持了不转山的初衷。
说不出理由。对于不是佛教徒的我们，转山与不转山都不需要太多解释。也许是听过太多转山的辛苦与枯燥，却没听到多少转山的乐趣和风景，我轻易地给自己编派了无需凑热闹的借口。转山全程57公里，据说是分为三段的，最艰苦的一段需要穿越5700米的卓玛拉山口，山上只有两个住宿点，因此如何安排时间和体力也是要考虑的问题，因为一般人不可能一天之内就转完，通常总要两至三天。当然超人总是有的，米玛就一直津津乐道一位自己背着行囊还健步如飞一天就把神山转完的神奇人物。我的同伴不是超人，背夫还是要的。旺季行情看涨，平时60元的价格，现在居然索价一人一天100元。讨价还价的过程不算愉快，甚至有同伴打算自己背包。
不过问题最后还是解决了，敲定一天90元，付给两个背夫。同伴们愉快地踏上转山之旅。我相信是愉快的，因为就连最后回来的小鱼都兴奋地叽叽喳喳说个不停。看来马年转山真的不愁寂寞，山道尽是“八国联军”，什么人都有。不知道那样的氛围会不会激发人的潜能，反正同伴们回来的时间比预计的要早，大约花了一天半就转完了。后来我才发现大部分人是可以在两天内转完的，也就是实际上的一天半。包括无奈“爽约”的农夫，一个从来只有城市旅游经验，提起转山脸色都会变的胖高个，后来也比我们迟了几天到达神山，花了两天工夫转了下来。
农夫回到广州后第一件事就是打电话给我，大喊大叫：“你的好介绍啊，居然玩什么转山！累惨了！”可我听出来了，他分明还处在亢奋状态呢。
临阵退缩的居然是我了。总好像不大光彩，最后我发挥起“说理”的特长，自我安慰地找出了两条冠冕堂皇的借口：一，做人当问心无愧，如果没有做什么愧事，便不必转山赎罪；二，做人当一力承担，有了罪孽只好接受因果报应，也不必转山逃避。
唉，“我不下地狱，谁下地狱”。
不知道是不是凑巧，转山的人似乎也自成一拨。我们到达的那天晚上大金如一锅沸腾的水，到处是跑来跑去寻找背夫和忙忙碌碌打点行装准备上山的人，但第二天我起来时，所有人都走了。所有人，约好了似的，一起去转山了。而我在山下无所事事等待的两天里，居然也没有新的转山者来到大金。
没有了转山者，大金显得很安静，剩下的是为数不多的不转山的人。这是相当悠闲的两天，我和一个深圳女孩一起，到处逛荡。我很快发现，这里几乎是一个大垃圾场，垃圾是络绎不绝的转山者制造的，他们下了山就走了，大金没有专门留下来进行清理和建设的人。而大金本身，纯粹因为转山而存在，一个建立在“流动”基础上的地名，面貌乏善可陈。到处是临时的帐篷、卡车和废弃物，唯一的风景是远处的纳木那尼峰。纳木那尼，神山对面的“神女峰”，在这里可以看得非常清楚。这是一座蛮漂亮的蜿蜒有致的雪山，但给她拍下n张玉照后，我也终于乏味了。
无事可做。无法洗澡，无法洗衣服；房间很冷，厕所很脏；长途电话一分钟一元钱，下午4点才开放，而且打一次也够了；小集市东西不多，一目了然，没什么可逛。就连米玛大哥也不见踪影，躲起来跟他的同胞打麻将去了。我和深圳女孩相对发闷，唉，这么好的阳光，这么浪费的光阴！
没有风景，只好看人。几个藏族妇女朝着神山虔诚地行五体投地大礼，丝毫不理会我们对准她们的相机。一个辫子上挂满大大小小各种银币的藏族女孩，一句汉话都不会说，在我示意下就大方地和我一起合影了。几个穿着艳丽的藏族服饰的姑娘，却羞怯地避过我们的镜头。而另一个穿着牛仔衣裤的女孩主动和我们说起话来：“她们是从改则来的，我也是。”
“你为什么不穿这些衣服？”
“我不穿。”女孩摇摇头，没解释。她的神情有些无所谓，她的嘴角朝下弯着。
不饿，但我和深圳女孩早早就坐在了冈底斯餐厅。反正尽管只有我们两个，上菜也要等老半天，正可以坐在这里发呆。
午饭请两个香港女生一起吃。其中一个普通话说得纯正无比，她从喀什过来，一路搭车。本来是雄心壮志要转山的，现在我看她满脸酡红，一副病怏怏的样子，就知道她实现不了这个愿望了。她却还想当天赶到普兰去，然而晚些时候，我又见到她和她的同伴，她输了液，普兰大约还是去不成。
晚饭请一个老外中国人吃。这个家伙很有意思，一进门就独自坐在桌子旁，不说一句话。别人都吃得差不多了，他的面前还是空空如也。我们问餐厅老板，他点的什么菜，老板说不知道。这个长着纯正中国面孔却一句中国话也不会说的家伙，居然傻傻地等着老板主动给他炒个什么菜。于是我们请他过来一起吃，这才知道他来自法国，是个BIOLOGIST，所有的中文水平，集中在他歪歪扭扭写下的三个中文字，他的姓名。他姓张，名字也是典型中国式的：虎明。他们一行八人，只有他一个没去转山。我们问他为什么不去转，他只是摇摇头，像那个来自改则的女孩一样，嘴角朝下弯着，没解释。
后来转山的人全回来了，我们在吃饭时又不期而遇。张和他的那些兴高采烈的“八国联军”的同伴一起，显得很沉默。他们在吃饺子，还给我们送了一碟。
在半天瞎逛加半天睡觉的第一天过去之后，我和深圳女孩决定第二天去转神山小圈。转小圈也有固定线路，同样很有讲究，据说要转够39圈大圈才有资格转小圈。不过转小圈简单多了，听说半天足够。于是我们一致认为为了打发时间，我们不必理会什么资格不资格。
或许是不容许我们这样胡来的缘故吧，尽管我们事前充分查阅了资料，出发前又问了人，还把画有线路的书也带上了，但走了老半天就是不能确定正确的方向。眼看时光飞逝，我们终于放弃“小圈”的目标，改为随兴登山。
大金其实并不挨着神山，在它与神山之间还有一座小山。我们就直截了当地冲上山。天哪，那真是一次难忘的登山历程！那么一座看起来不起眼的小山，在平原上如果想上去肯定是不在话下的，此刻却是如此严峻的考验！没有盘山道，我们是直线从山脚往山顶爬，每上一段，实际也就十来米，就感觉气都喘不过来似的，非得停下来歇歇。要命的是，原来山后还有山，爬完一座，又一座……也不知道爬了几座山，直至到达最高的山峰——呵，我们终于得到了回报！
高处总能看到平地看不到的风景。先是大金变成了小沙盘的模型，距离增加美感，垃圾看不见了，一顶顶白色的帐篷就成了开在山脚的一朵朵小白花；然后我们久寻无着的小圈之路也清晰地呈现在视野中，和路上的庙宇以及几个移动的人影一起构成一道风景。而现在，现在，神山冈仁波齐第一次那么近距离地呈现在我们面前！感觉上，我们不用再仰头，就可以平视地欣赏几乎整个神山的正面。
金字塔般的神山，披着一身的白雪皑皑，佛教万字形的冰格格外清晰。我们等了一会，居然等到神山顶上的乌云散去，蓝天下的神山，白得耀眼。运气真的一直在眷顾我们，后来又看了一些旅游书，才知道我们歪打正着地选择了不转山时最好的行动。在这里看神山是最好的，转山的人反而看不到。实际上，所谓转山，其实转的并不是冈仁波齐，而是冈仁波齐周边的许多山峰，一个大圈。照米玛的说法，藏族人说神山“兄弟姐妹”多，而转山转的其实就是神山的“兄弟姐妹”。
我们虽然没去转山，却看到了神山最美的一面。而且还是没有被云彩遮住的神山全貌，据书上说，这也是比较有福气的事。不过任何美事总有代价，在这一览众山小的地方，山风之猛足以和珠峰大本营上的媲美。尽管阳光无比灿烂，冷风却也无比刺骨，身上每一个毛孔都能感到明显的寒意。从这里开始，我的鼻子就一直带着血丝，深圳女孩更惨，唾液里都带着血。
心情却仍是兴奋的，至少验证了我们不乏可以转山的体力，而且见到了独特的风景。下山途中经过一条清澈的小溪，两边长满红色的小花，然后又遇上突然的冰雹，阳光下的冰雹，若有若无，几分钟后就消失了。尽管第二天我的双腿和转山回来的人一样发酸，这半天的旅程却让我有了和他们一样的充实。
如果我去转山，这一节将是整个梦幻阿里最亮丽的部分，一如许多人的阿里之行就等于转山体验，那是一种朝圣的感觉。不过即使没有转山，我的阿里之行仍有一个最亮点，那是在随后到达的札达。
从大金赶往札达，路况除了一如既往地狭窄、崎岖、颠簸还偶尔加点泥泞外，更多了一重险峻。一路都是山，车子忽而在高山之巅，忽而在悬崖旁边，忽而又要涉水过石头河。但风景总能弥补艰辛，毕竟在我们普通的一生中大概没多少机会看到喜马拉雅山脉和冈底斯山脉在视野两侧并行。而接近札达时连绵壮观的土林铺面而来，更是让人有难以抑制的激动，尽管米玛告诉我们——事后也证明他的正确——这样的土林景观在札达比比皆是。
札达应该是阿里地区的一个另类，海拔3900米的县城，而且还有一条水泥街道，而且街上还有淋浴，似乎与一路上已渐渐习惯了的阿里的艰苦有些脱节。在这里我们终于找到愿意帮我们洗衣服的人，虽然收费不便宜，不过我们已没有多少干净的衣服了。
札达的风景更是另类的独特，这也是我们怎么也不肯放弃札达的原因。事实上因为去札达的路比较麻烦，在拉萨找车时会有一些司机不肯去的。米玛却是驾轻就熟，尽管到达札达县城的当晚他的一条腿被另一辆车夹伤了，一瘸一拐的，他却坚持第二天天没亮就出发，熟门熟路地把我们送到了古格。
在古格的一天，是我们行程中最丰富、最有价值的一天，至少对我来说是这样。古格离札达县城18公里，我们到了那里天还没亮。而日出的古格，美得难以形容。金光一点点地移到古格王国顶上，移到四周天然的也许已经静默上千年的土林上。除了蔚然成“山”的土林和同样建在土山上的古格王国遗址，这里别无他样风景，然而来来回回从不同位置不同角度拍摄，已经足够费去半天甚至一天。我们碰见几个西方游客，其中一个来自斯洛文尼亚的摄影师就是从前一天夜里开始守侯的。他已经在中国待了六个月。
这里的气候一定非常干燥，否则土林难以如此完好地保存千年。在这里我第一次看见如此深蓝的天空，而且天空竟然一丝云都没有！一片广阔的深蓝，蓝得像深海一般。难怪回到广州后把这色彩描述给一位同事听，他的反应是这样的天空很“恐怖”。实际上我在任何别的地方也没见过这样的天空，确实蓝得有些古怪，而且直至正午12点，月亮还高高地挂在天上，日月同辉，可是一点不假。
不过和古格的气氛倒蛮契合。神秘的古格王国，建于中世纪西藏兴苯灭佛时期，为藏传佛教的后弘作出重大贡献。而17世纪的突然灭亡更增加了古格的神秘色彩，外族入侵也好，王室内讧也好，自然灾害也好，总之古格一夜之间就消失了，连同10万古格子民，忽然间人间蒸发似的。要不是古格的遗址分明就在眼前，的确难以相信这里曾有过那样辉煌和曲折的历史。
古格的外表看上去几乎是废墟，里面却内有乾坤。洞穴处处，曲径通幽。层次分明的建筑，从上往下依次是王宫、寺庙和普通民宅，所谓王宫现在看来也很小气，而且我们不大理解当年古格王每天要经过层层阶梯上上下下的必要。至于那狭小的民宅，基本上就是山洞，让我想起北京的古崖居。
整个遗址似乎没有特别的保护。我们是中午进去的，门口没人把守，如果要逃票也不太难，只是不买票的话是看不到古格著名的壁画和雕像的，因为售票的人同时负责给我们打开各个殿门并进行讲解。度母殿、红殿、白殿，一一打开了，千年的壁画和雕像呈现在我们面前。不可否认确实精美，但我更深的印象是破坏太厉害了。许多壁画已经脱落，完整的雕像也所剩无几，特别是红殿一堆沙土上的一个佛头，见证着文革破坏的力量，让人觉得既滑稽又悲凉。破坏当然很容易，然而破坏之后也没有什么保护和建设了。售票的讲解员俨然便是这里的主事人，殿内虽然照例摆着禁止拍照的牌子，但当小鱼先生给了他100元后，他也就不坚持什么原则了。
看壁画不知所云，倒是钻地洞相当好玩。外表是一座平凡土堡的古格遗址，内部四通八达，暗道无数。瞭望哨口到处都是，绕来绕去的洞穴和暗道，简直可以打地道战。里面不少地方黑不隆冬，而且必须弯腰行走。典型如我们去钻的冬宫，我就在里头很放心地拆开相机后盖换了卷胶卷。有书上说冬宫是古格王幽会妃子的地方，但实在难以令人相信，妃子若住这暗无天日的地方，岂不比冷宫还冷宫？这地道尽头是封死的，只能原路返回。冬宫的实际用途，因此就跟古格本身一样神秘。
还有我们慕名而去的干尸洞，小心翼翼走了一段狭长的山崖小道才找到。洞口很不起眼地嵌在山崖上，像我这样的小个子必须依靠同伴的帮助才能爬上去。上去之前我做好充分的心理准备，预备鼓起最大的勇气去与一大堆吓人的古代尸骸近距离照面。然而结果却令人失望，洞口虽有一股恶臭扑鼻而来，里面却只是一具不知是人还是动物的骸骨。骸骨下面好像是破烂的麻袋，后面还有一个洞口。我们谁也没有继续进去的意思，全都看一眼就退了下来，然后一路狐疑这是不是真正的干尸洞。就是书上说的放了成千上万古格战士和俘虏尸骨的干尸洞？不过后来回到广州，同事看了在洞口拍的那张照片，便说这确实是干尸洞，因为中央电视台西部频道刚播过相关节目，在那麻袋下面，便有密密麻麻的尸骨。
干尸洞的历程不值一提，而寻找“擦擦”的经过却让我们重拾孩童般的乐趣。 “擦擦”是一个个的小泥坯，上面捏有佛像或经文，据说古格时代人们到处供奉，因此现在的游人随处可以捡拾。但我们四个人八只眼一路留意，在古格王国遗址也只发现了一个。幸好后来又碰见斯洛文尼亚人，告诉我在对面的土坡有很多，那正是我们上午逗留拍照的地方。于是我们再次穿越那片青青草地——准确地说是一条沼泽地带，在那些山洞里分头进行地毯式搜索，结果果然在几个洞穴中找到大量擦擦。当我在一个山洞平台上发现摆放得整整齐齐的几十个擦擦时，别提多激动了。犹豫了好一会，我终于全部收起，走到同伴那里，他们也找到了一个有很多擦擦的洞窟。我问了一声：“全部拿走算不算亵渎神灵？”“当然算了！”异口同声的回答吓了我一跳，立马生出负罪感。于是我们挑出一些，剩下的放回原来的山洞，并且藏在隐蔽之处，以免再被老外拿走。
带走擦擦，我们不敢告诉米玛。不知道为什么我心里总是有些忐忑，好像自己太贪心了。小鱼说擦擦带得太多的话，是会给自己带来坏运气而不是好运气的。事实上一直没出什么问题的车子，从这以后就事故频生，车子一上路我心下就惴惴，既担心行囊里的擦擦被颠坏，又担心一不小心又来个轮胎泄气什么的。
擦擦来得太多太容易，后来我们研究，断定这些都不是古物，应该是现代的虔诚信徒朝圣放在古格的。 Anyway，仍然有特别的意义，因此这一天的探险仍然令人激动。札达成了阿里之行的高潮，风景、历史、探险、收获，一样不缺。在土山、土洞和沼泽之间来回奔行，每个人都弄得灰头土脸，脏不拉唧，我也在松动的土坡上摔了两跤，尽管我已经小心翼翼，手脚并用了。回到县城，前一天刚换的衣服不得不又全部换掉，鞋上的泥巴也费了几条毛巾才擦掉。一人20元的“天仙淋浴”为什么能够存在，我总算明白，因为当晚我们就集体光顾了。
札达让我们念念不忘。小鱼预言，5年或10年后札达会修机场。说实话，这样的地方不来的话太可惜，但若真修了机场，那靠了干燥的气候维持千年的土林风貌是否还能继续壮观，就难说了。发展与保护，总是永久的难题。
走过札达，直奔狮泉河。一路风景依旧，路的难走也依旧。很多地方都是山路，司机的技术在此得到很好展示。很多时候，米玛不走看得见的盘山路，而是直直从山上冲下，样子有些吓人，但省了不少时间。有时我会觉得，去阿里的人至少心脏不能太脆弱，否则光是车子走险路的样子已够让人吃不消。
高原的气候也越来越凸显。代表温暖的阳光和代表寒冷的冰雪同样强烈，给人的感觉居然是一种特别的和谐。我们时常会经过浅浅的小河，正午时分阳光极其猛烈，而河边的冰渣却依然未化。
狮泉河，阿里重镇，地区行署所在地。风景乏善可陈，只是适合休整。这里的规模跟内地一个小县城差不多了，手机也有了信号。有洗衣店可以洗衣服，我们也奢侈地吃了一餐“大盘鸡”。
日土离狮泉河不太远，这个小县城有着一条笔直的水泥马路，马路尽头是一座皑皑雪山。雪山一路都见到了，水泥马路此时却显得很豪华，直至以后发现小北线的县城大多有这样一条马路，才知道南线不如小北线“发达”。
我们到日土是为了观赏最后一个目标景点：班公湖。这是我的阿里之行中到得最远的地方，需要边防检查。班公湖有好些独特的地方，一是属于跨越边境的国际性湖泊，湖西伸入克什米尔境内；二是极其狭长，东西长155公里，南北仅宽40米到15公里；三是半咸半淡，西部是咸水湖，东部是淡水湖，中间是半咸水；四是有著名的鸟岛，据说每年5月至9月，大批白色候鸟在这里栖息繁衍，把几百平方米的小岛盖得严严实实，游人根本无法插足。不过我们到达的时候，当地人说观鸟季节已过了，送人去鸟岛的游船也没人看管——老板走开了，我们也就没法去看鸟岛；五是出名美味的湖鱼，这里还出产西藏特有的裂腹鱼。藏人一般不吃鱼的，因此这里的鱼也特别肥硕。我们在“班公湖鱼庄”美美地吃了一顿。一人20元，数量不限，管饱。我们吃掉的是一大盆酸菜鱼，一大盆红烧鱼，还有一大碟清蒸鱼。
其实撇开班公湖的鱼，光是碧蓝的湖水，映衬着周围一圈雪山，在我看来此地风景已很赏心悦目。而这里的湖水是如此清澈，我实在忍不住，尽管米玛大哥在一旁笑话，我还是装了一瓶子水。
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从小北线返回，很多时候会生出与南线风景迥异的感觉。
更少的人。阿里的路不能算好路，然而在雨季过后的晴天，在没有人也没有车走的沙石路上驰骋，也会有某种一马平川的联想。而且人迹稀少带来一个意外收获，我们大饱眼福地看到了许多野生动物，虽然谈不上亲密接触，但近距离的邂逅已够让人惊喜。
回程的第一天就开始目不暇接。从日土到改则，我们走的是一条新路，米玛说走的人还不多，所以野生动物还愿意在这里逗留。事实上一天下来我们几乎没碰见什么车子，倒是直到上午十点还姗姗来迟，从容下山喝水的藏羚羊和藏野驴们让我们激动不已。藏野驴很有趣，喜欢和车子赛跑，但车子一停下来它们也就停下来，而且绝不靠近。米玛便慢慢将车子提速，顿时两边的藏野驴护驾一般奔跑过来，而且越跑越快，最后还意犹未尽地从车头前横穿过去！恐怕它们真把我们的车子当成一只和它们比赛的动物了。傻头傻脑的藏野驴惹得我们很开心，至少这一来我的傻瓜相机也可以近距离地拍到一两张。
而藏羚羊就很胆小敏感，我们远远地向它们走去时，它们就开始不安地移动。当感觉到威胁时它们就发足狂奔。藏羚羊体型优美，细长的腿跑起来更有一种腾云驾雾的轻盈，姿势真是伶俐跳脱，优雅曼妙。可惜除了“色驴”的专业长镜头，普通的相机没法清晰地捕捉这仙子般的姿态，距离太远了。有时透过这长镜头望过去，会发现镜头中的藏羚羊都是屁股对着我们的——已经开始逃窜了。
也有例外的时候。从措勤向桑桑行进的那天，简直就是“藏羚羊日”。我们一路上见到许多群藏羚羊，少则三四只，多则十几二十只。难得的是这些藏羚羊不怎么怕人，有时我们甚至可以很近距离地观察它们，它们似乎也没有躲开的意思。这一天见到了站着的藏羚羊，跑着的藏羚羊，卧着的藏羚羊，甚至打架的藏羚羊，真是大开眼界。
野牦牛、野马、土狼、秃鹫、狐狸、鹰，还有我们已经很熟悉的乌鸦、野兔和旱獭，就算小北线上别的风景都欠缺，能在这些城市动物园里看不到的高原生灵身边经过，已经“值回票价”了。
何况小北线的风景也自有独到之处。
阿里南线自然风光固然出众，络绎不绝的朝圣队伍和到处可见的经幡、玛尼石堆构成的人文风景线也独特。而小北线就简单纯粹得多，依旧是草原、雪山、湖泊的景象，但经幡和玛尼堆少了很多，可以想像越往北，到阿里大北线一带，就真是人迹罕至的无人区了。我没想到这次阿里之旅经过的海拔最高点竟在小北线上。那是在措勤经过的一个山口，米玛说这里海拔已是5600米，真是让人难以置信。我就这么经过5600米的高处了，一点反应都没有，这个时候已经完全适应高原。何止适应呢？上了高原我还活蹦乱跳，就差没跟小鱼一样患上“高原亢奋症”了，而平时在海拔不过以百米计的广州，我常常连上楼梯都会头晕。有星座书说双子座的幸运位置在高地，这一点看来对我倒蛮正确。
在小北线这么高海拔的地方，周围的雪山甚至都显得不那么高了，有时显得很近，很平。我在西藏见到最近的一座雪山，不是珠峰也不是神山，而是改则到措勤途中一直在车子前面出现的一座大雪山，那么近，扑面而来的感觉，持续了很久很久。那时我有些幻想置身于动画片中的冰河时代，四周一片庄严的白色。沉默的雪峰且行且随，有一些气势，有一些沧桑，形容不出的感觉，我只有心中默诵：呵，西藏！
小北线也有不少的高原湖泊。扎日南木错应该是比较著名的，“措勤”就因它而命名，意思是“巨大的湖泊”。但米玛不认得路，只知道跟纳木错一样，远远能看到，却要绕一圈又一圈的山路才能到达。这一路上我们已看到太多大同小异的湖泊，于是也就罢了。和扎日南木错的缘分，便仅限于我们在到达措勤的当晚住进了“扎日南木错旅社”。
其实途中曾经停留的达瓦错、达加错也够可以代表西藏的湖泊了。一望无际的浩淼湖面，车子走了好久都能看到。阳光下闪着碧蓝碧绿的光，湖边红红绿绿的草坡，野马、牦牛悠闲踱步。看起来都差不多的高原湖泊，然而也是怎么看都不厌倦的自然画卷，色彩和构图天然地完美。
而盐湖则有些特别，那是一个很大的湖泊，边上确实是白色的盐碱，远远望去一条白线。这个地方出产盐碱和硼砂。
小北线上最好玩的当属接近22道班时的一个温泉，在这高寒地区居然有一个热气蒸腾的温泉，感觉非常奇妙。米玛介绍，这是一个间歇性的地热喷泉，80年代的时候喷起的水柱高达10米，老远就能看到，但现在已经低了很多了。我们在那里逗留了很久，把鸡蛋放进泉眼加热。水是很烫的，有一个鸡蛋掉到也就十来厘米深的水中，我急着去捞，蛋没捞上来，皮肤已被烫得红通通热辣辣的。温泉附近的石头很漂亮，全是红色的，上面有一圈圈的花纹。
22道班几乎在所有旅游书上都出现，到了那里才知道缘故。这显然是一个比较“气派”的道班了，整齐的砖墙漆着白漆，道班的标志鲜红夺目，有饭店有住宅，难怪可以作为一个落脚点了。从这以后道班一路都是，白漆黄漆的外墙都很新，完全不是南线上艰苦的马拉道班能比。但不知为什么，我老是想起像是隔绝人世的马拉道班，那一夜彻骨的寒风深深地印在记忆里。
不仅道班，事实上整个小北线的县城也比南线上的“繁华”得多。总有一条比较宽的水泥路，道路两边就是旅馆、饭店、商铺和浴室，有的地方甚至有路灯。当然浴室通常是不开的，但手机一般都有信号。小北线给我的感觉是一段一段的，有人的地方是单纯的聚集区，像内地最普通的小乡镇；没人的地方是单纯的风景区，茫茫高原，苍鹰高飞，羚羊奔跑。而南线风景和人是分不开的，人也是景的一部分，而且人也创造了风景，那风中摇曳的经幡，那精致沉默的玛尼石。
渐渐接近城市，人气越来越旺，通讯越来越发达，道路越来越好走，风光却越来越差。从日喀则回拉萨走的是新路，虽然也是山路，却比来时轻松好走得多。风景欠奉，我抓着相机，整个半天只在途中拍了一只牛皮船，再就是山崖间紫蓝色的高原小花。其实觉得缺少风景是走过阿里之后的一种暂时性“心理停留”，又见到大片大片的青稞田了，还有树木和房屋，房顶插着经幡，藏族小姑娘背着箩筐，好奇地向我们张望。这样的景致，出发前也曾为之激动的。
最终，回到拉萨。
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想去西藏，就去吧。
出发之前在网上搜索，才知道有那么多的人憧憬西藏，而当中更有不少已经去过不止一次的。想去西藏，就去吧。有人发出召唤。确实，去西藏不用理由，只要还能感受，还分得出梦的色彩。
阿里不是秀水青山的地方，去过的人容易走极端，要么心有余悸，要么情有独钟，但要忘记恐怕不那么容易。回来之后我在网上甚至看到一条点评：“我要和我最爱的人一起到那里，让神山圣湖保佑我们一辈子生活在一起，相爱直到生命的尽头。”爱到极致了，怕是梦里亦萦绕千百回吧。只是不知那“最爱的人”是否也有同样的愿望？不管人们给她赋予怎样的色彩，阿里总是阿里，从来就在，山水未改。我们走过，我们只是过客。
花一万多元完成的这次旅程，回来后总被他人提及。或是客气，或是敷衍，或者暗地不屑，或者真心羡慕，但没有人问我原因。或者大家都知道这个道理：想去西藏，就去吧。
上阿里，必要的准备是少不了的。御寒衣物、睡袋、头灯手电一定要，转山还应该备上好的登山鞋和登山杖；不是雨季，雨伞不一定用得上，装垃圾的塑料袋却应该多备几个；怕麻烦的，干粮帐篷可以减免，反正到了高海拔的地方火机也打不着火，司机老马识途也会指点路上的食宿，只是阿里山高水远物资缺乏的缘故，高成本使一切基本消费也和服务质量不成比例地昂贵。比如一个味道极普通的炒青菜就收10-15元，一间没水没电除了4张破旧木板床外什么也没有的土坯房就要价100或更多。而且碰上旺季真得预防就这样的房间都会住满。
有一件东西一定要带，就是药物。这或者也是西藏旅游的特点之一，除了专门对付高原反应的药物之外，每个人还会带上一大把专治头疼脑热拉肚子的特效药，却不是针对这些常见的旅行疾病，而仍然是防范高原反应——高原反应是因，果却是各种各样的不适应，失眠头痛，恶心呕吐，耳鸣眼花，都有可能。
都说上高原时碰上感冒是很严重的事情，动辄可引发肺水肿，弄不好生命就贡献在高原上啦。我平时没事都会隔十天半月地闹一场“例行”感冒，一年下来感冒如影随形地总要犯上二三十回。因此出发前格外小心翼翼，并带上一大包感冒灵、感冒茶冲剂、速效伤风胶囊、百服宁上路。待上了高原才发现神志清明，顿时信心大增。一增就疏于防范，阿里高原的寒风最终使我的这些药物全部消耗殆尽，但那时应该就是纯粹的感冒了，与高原反应无尤。我把“红景天”从广州带到拉萨，又把“高原康”从拉萨带回广州。看着抽屉里这些吃不完的蓝色小胶囊，会想起我和高原的这场缘分。来之前看很多旅游书都说心情愉快是治疗高原反应最好的药物，那时不怎么理解，亲身上了高原就明白了，当辽远的景致在我面前绵延地展开，快乐是如此充盈，根本想不到还有高原反应这回事。
交通工具也有一定的关系。我自认不是爱吃苦的旅游者，旅游的过程是方式，旅游的结果是风景，在省钱体验过程和花钱享受结果之间，我毫不犹豫地选择后者。坐飞机进藏和坐汽车进藏哪个更容易产生高原反应，一直有两种意见。但这次的经历让我相信，健康真的可以花钱买。体质强健的，或许根本无须长途公路的“热身”便可适应；体质虚弱的，经过山高高路迢迢的长途跋涉后，只怕还没到西藏便已萌退意。从拉萨启程前往阿里的那天，亚宾馆门口站了一个面色苍白的女孩。见小鱼捧着一个氧气袋，女孩嘟哝说吸氧根本没用。她刚从青藏公路下来，汽车不幸在海拔最高的地方堵了两天，纵使她抱着氧气袋拼命地吸，脑袋也如炸裂一般地疼。
氧气袋是对付高原反应最后的，理论上也应该最有效的一招了，再不行只好下到低海拔地区。吸氧仍不见效？至此我真的相信情绪的愉快比一切药物都好了。小鱼的氧气袋是起心理安慰作用的，结果一上路就开始漏气，小鱼在珠峰狠劲吸了几口，仅仅为了不浪费。我至今不知道吸氧是什么滋味，或者真的与高原有缘。
西藏是世界上最接近太阳的地方吧，这里最不缺的也许就是阳光和阳光一样无所不在的虔诚信仰。到处都能看到简单的太阳能炉子。从东部到西部，日出日落的时间相应推迟，我们在阿里已经习惯了晚上8点半天还亮着，但回到拉萨不到8点已经华灯初上。但整个城市的节奏依旧是从容的，和缓的，甚至有些慵懒。出发前我在广州找旅行社办的边防证，临上飞机前才拿到，竟然发现证上的有效时间填错了，算起来我在阿里途中就会失效。匆匆忙忙，旅行社只好长途电话约好拉萨的人补办。到拉萨的第一天我就联系办证人，答复竟是公安机关办证的人没上班，等第二天吧。第二天再问，回答是办了，但公安机关的人没上班，这证拿不到，等第三天吧。第三天，人还是没上班，电话那头的人还安抚我：“我们这里的办事效率是不能和内地比的啦。”我哭笑不得。好不容易到出发前一天傍晚，边防证终于送来了，我赫然发现我的名字三个字里就错了两个，连姓都改了！证件是打印的，无法修改，送证人一再强调：“没事没事，身份证号码对就行了。”那时已是星期五，我深知以此地的“办事效率”，我绝无可能再办一张证。只好揣两张有问题的边防证上路了，到达班公湖正好第一张证到期，我把两张边防证连同身份证、工作证一起交给边防战士，并且准备认真解释一番，谁知年轻的战士早早看明白了，也不需要我解释就放了我一马。我悬了一路的心至此才落了下来，暗暗庆幸我长得还像良民。
边防证是一定要提前准备好的，保险却是一种可选可不选的心理安慰。出发前我在广州买了平生第一份意外险，原本想向家人证明我的并非鲁莽，结果却让固守传统的母亲担心了好一阵。我办保险是针对交通事故，事实上阿里的路况证明买一份保险并非过分细心。一路走的山路、泥浆路、沙子路、碎石路、冰渣路，崎岖不平，“陷阱”处处。雨季行走显然非常困难，难怪在拉萨有些司机都不肯来。碰上米玛这样有经验的司机，应该也是一种运气。车子在路上颠簸行进时，每每看米玛用熟练的技术化险为夷，我就觉得上阿里找个好司机从某种程度上比找部好车子还重要。我们就在途中目睹一辆吉普车陷在泥中出不来，米玛试图施以援手，但把钢绳扯断了都没能把这部丰田62拉出泥沼。后来来了一部搭载朝圣藏民的大卡车，马力强劲，这才救出这部小吉普。
米玛的丰田4500开了7年，外观已经很旧，一路平安无事几乎使我忘记了阿里路难走的事实。然而就在回程途中，这部老爷车开始频频报警。尽管小北线的路况比南线要好，我们的车子却从离开札达开始，频频出事，几乎天天有问题。路上一共出故障5次，修车3次，换胎2次，补胎2次，故障包括不同部位的轮胎扎破、不同地方的减震器失灵等等。我一边暗自庆幸已经到了相对“繁华”的小北线，县城有修车的地方，一边疑惑正如小鱼所说，都是我们带多了“擦擦”惹的祸？
终于回到拉萨了，住进旅行者吧旁边的龙达觉萨家庭旅馆，这是“色驴”介绍的好地方。整洁明亮，房间的布置藏味十足，连桌上的小摆设都透出一份用心。栖息此地，我又在拉萨逗留了两天。小鱼他们去纳木错了，我在街上闲逛。八角街、布达拉宫，街道现在都很熟悉了。还有西郊，也去见识过，很豪华，规模大，食肆超市娱乐场所一应俱全，但看起来就跟内地普通的城市差不多，找不到西藏的味道。我还是喜欢拉萨的旧城区。
闲来无事，加上心急，就在拉萨把所有照片冲洗出来，结果证明这是一个很大的失误。拉萨的冲印费奇贵不说，质量还不怎么样，视野中那么有震撼力的蓝天白云，雪峰明湖，在照片上黯然失色。倒是有两卷局部曝光的胶卷，带回广州冲洗后，色彩明丽鲜艳，可爱之极。
于是每每把照片拿出来给人看，都不忘加上一句：“你要加多一些想象力。”生怕糟糕的相片扭曲了阿里的形象。然而心底是清楚的，我在很对的季节，去了一个很对的地方。家人看我最爱的札达，说像阿富汗，于是我明白不是每个人都爱走进阿里。但我很运气，那样的辽远、开阔、苍茫、质朴，那山的故乡，鹰之乐园，正正是一个纯真而美丽的梦。而我，在梦里飞了一回。
2002.12.12
作者：fannylian
