Tianshan unforgettable tour By: fzpwm
This year five, in June, the time when SARS epidemic can not be traveling, sit at home look at old photographs, can not help but recall this time last year, we are participating in Xinjiang, "along the Tianshan Mountains Photographic Tour." That for some time, although hard, are very excited, because every day has a different feeling fresh. WORM simply as follows, for intending to travel in Xinjiang friends as a reference.
The event was organized by the Xinjiang Hua Baoshe. Route is: starting from Urumqi, the East via Dabancheng, through the Tianshan Hougou Canyon, south Toksun by Bosten Lake, over Korla, and then westbound along the southern foot of Tianshan Mountains, to wheel sets, Kuqa, paid homage Kizil Grottoes, alone and went north bank road, through the Tianshan Grand Canyon, crossing the railway bought Tida Osaka, come and static in Bayinbuluke prairie, and then fold to the west into the Ili River Valley narat grasslands, and later, Shun kunas River, Ili sets and, after a new source, Gongliu to Yining city, and then by ho, over guozigou to Sailimu Lake, finally, along the northern foot of Tianshan eastbound back to Urumqi. Nine days time, and the hinterland of the northern foot of Tianshan Mountains south turn full circle, travel together over 2,000 kilometers. It is said that this is a golden tourist line in Xinjiang.
The first day (May 27, 2002)
May 27, 2002 morning, our small tour group and his party of 14 people, take a "Coaster," the coach set out. Peer's "tour", from Guangzhou, Zhongshan, Shenzhen, Tianjin and other places, are amateur photographers, but they are very professional photographic equipment. A group of like-minded passion and energy to make the trip a full and happy life.
Coach to leave the Urumqi urban area, southeast to the opening line, about half an hour after Chaiwopu, we are under the highway, take State Road 312 line of the old road into the wind power plant area, this is our first trip a photographic point. Chaiwopu - Dabancheng valley wind resources, said the highest in the nation, this in 1988 aided by the Denmark, initially more than a dozen typhoons machine environment-friendly power plants, has been developed for the current Asia's largest wind power plant, a row upon row of huge wind turbine tower, standing on the flat desert, the very spectacular. Heard that, when factory when a Danish engineer who died in a road accident here, and his wife came from Denmark did not make any demands to the Chinese government, only taking her husband's ashes. This matter, let us very moving.
Gobi Desert in the valley along the road and there were full of yellow clumps of camel thorn, in this dry, cracked desert, the there are so many gorgeous flowers, amazing tenacity of life. To listen to the driver master speaking, he opened a car for several decades, this picture is also rarely seen. I am afraid of rain since the spring of this year, year and more reason than usual bar! After all, the larger environment in arid areas, only the growth of this drought-tolerant desert plants.
Grass Lake coach in the next highway, over to the Nankai Toksun County, take State Road 314 gangou the northern section of the new line, called Subas ditch, roadside ditch the sand mountain, is our second shot point. Not witnessed the Gobi desert, the old broad who, despite the hot, excited to shoot without a rest.
At noon, after, and Shuo County uxxaktal, we have a line on the roadside a Muslim restaurant to eat noodles in Xinjiang, also known as "pull sliver" is a lamb stir-fry the noodles on the cover of a meals very tasty, but also is very resistant to hunger. After dinner, continue the road, through Yanqi County, 6:00 pm Beijing time (Xinjiang time 4:00), arrived in Korla City, first went to the urban north-east of Tiemenguan.
South-day extension of Shandong Tiemenguan offshoot kuruk Hora mountain and a valley between the mountains, valley stream Kongquehe wear, this 10 km-long gorge, ancient southern and northern parts of the pore is communication, but also military commander With Insurance a critical point of the passes. Jin dynasty (fourth century), which is based on this, with its solid-named insurance. Closed pre-rock walls inscribed with "lapel mountain belt River" four characters, is off floor renovation completed in 1932, when the moment. Previously, the road holding an Raoshan Uku Road ago, Tiemenguan is the gateway out of Korla. The floor is now closed for the past several years new.
Korla City is Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture capital, and we live in Swan Hotel. Subsequently, we and his party also doubled back more than 20 kilometers and crosses the east by the tash shops to Bohu County territory Bosten River, here is a small lake in southwestern Lake Bo, and develop tourism, the name "Lotus Lake." The growth of the dense reed lake can not see Hao-miao of the lake. Motorboat ride the shuttle in the reeds, somewhat as in the Baiyangdian where Guizi Bing deal with the taste. According to information on: Bosten Lake is China's largest inland freshwater lake, an area of 970 square kilometers, the lake elevation 1047 meters. Kaidu River from the northwest into the lake from the southwest corner outflow Kongquehe. Tour guide told us that this river flows through Korla city, according to Uighur pronunciation is "Kun its Adriatic," Uighur "Kun its", which means cobbler; "Adria" means river. Together means "cobbler River", the original, early years, the county nad a system of leather workshop, hence the name. "Kongquehe" is a transliteration of Chinese Ya-oriented, in the peacock has never been a place, yet there are a Kongquehe really interesting.
Sky Xiang Wan Unfortunately, we photographed the location of the poor can not be proactive to the lake sunset scene. However, our portrait photos, but added income into the large reed lake, bathed in the sunset.
The following day (May 28, 2002)
Morning, we shun away from Korla city driving westbound State Road 314, long the monotonous desert highway scorcher, and inevitably some sleepy, do not know who shouted: "Look! West-East Gas Project!" Everyone look at sub-excited, pipeline welding went off the scene, a quick photo for a while.
Our parking place, probably in the vicinity of Chur Chu. This is parallel to State Highway 314 the "West-East" pipeline laying site. "West-East," the starting point of the Luntai County town south of the wheel nanzhen, Tarim Basin rich natural gas from the pipeline exports to Shanghai. Not yet been buried underground gas pipeline, like the Gobi on a queue, to extend the distance quite a lot of momentum.
Move ahead, and came to Luntai County city 30 kilometers northeast of Yang Xia, which is a bustling little Bazaar (Victoria word meaning market). Everyone has to get off the ground war film folk customs. Here to when the traffic arteries, one to endure a roadside Fanpu, playing Nang (a scones), and roast mutton, do pilaf, and selling baked buns ... ... really attractive watering for a snatch. The most characteristic is the slide which pushes aside the stall Monopoly dried apricots, but also offers tailor-made cartons. Luntai County Specialties a small Bai Xing, singly little color BAI Liang, nuclear children small, flesh, taste honey sweet, apricot be called in Need, dry as dried apricots, more concentrated sweet, is said to be long-term preservation. Of the group, someone suddenly became a box bought dried apricots, ready to go back to Guangdong gift item.
Wu Liuyue rooms, it is the local Kuwako (Mulberry) mature season, under the mulberry street Yi Keke is covered with white, purple mulberry, it is ripe, after falling on the ground. Standing trees, mulberry rain from time to time like to play on the body. We open the umbrella, umbrella put upward, then a lot of mulberry son, eat his mouth, sweet water, one to sent to the mouth is even more enjoyable. Unfortunately, because they can not shipped out, had to feed the sheep, and even allowed to fall to the ground rotting.
Tour guide told us that Yangxia The name, the Qing dynasty history books where writing "foreign Saar," language is the pronunciation of modern peacekeeping. "Foreign" (also read "United Kingdom"), meaning a new, "Sal" (the correct pronunciation should be "co-Haier"), meaning cities and towns together, or new town is the Metro. Yang Xia, also the Chinese transliteration of Ya.
Luntai arrived at noon, stay "are protecting the government guest house." In 60 BC, the Western Han court in the Uzbek base city (today's northeast qedir Luntai County near the border), set the "Western Regions Frontier Command", which is located in the Western Han dynasty, the central government the highest military body. Since then, the vast territory of China was formally included in the Western Regions, the central dynasty in the Western beginnings of an effective jurisdiction and governance. Round of the Taiwan people are very this as the glory, but also the county seat where the best hotels named after the origin of this.
Hotel front yard, there is a group of Zheng Ji-based sculpture, the image is quite vivid. Zheng Ji is the first "Western Regions Frontier Command", that is the highest military and political Executive, then the Western Regions. "Han Zheng Ji Chuan," said: "Han's orders to ban the Western Regions carry on until the beginning of Zhang Qian made in the Zheng Ji." We have to remember the feelings, pictures of commemoration.
Afternoon at the guesthouse behind the orchard, the specialized agencies for our photo of the dance performances. Participate in the performance of the "actors" were, in fact, is a guest house where all the attendants.
The third day (May 29, 2002)
Freedom of the morning activities, we casually walk in the Luntai County town, the town gave us a good impression. Wide streets tidy, tree-lined, full of impressive sculptures. Heard that when night fell, the central square of the fountain open, people of all nationalities gathered here to enjoy the cool air chat, sing and dance, enjoyable. Local residents told us that the wheel sets of national unity in Xinjiang, one of the best counties.
After lunch, proceed to go to beat the Tarim Populus euphratica. South about 30 kilometers south of reach round nanzhen "Tarim Desert Highway," a starting point. There are also stretches of Populus euphratica, and then move forward, the green will gradually disappear, full access to the vast Taklamakan desert. It is said that the Tarim Desert Highway is the world's built in flow of the longest in the desert a highway from the round nanzhen to Minfeng County, opened to traffic in 1995, a total length of 522 kilometers. This is a flat straight road, as if sallow Sand Sea in a black long queue.
From the "Desert Highway" running south from near the roadside there are two tall poplars, Hu is said to have been a big man in this photo too similar, and now with the fence up. Southbound along the way to see built in the desert the "West-East," the first stop, and soon after the Tarim gas deep underground from here on out, leading to thousands of miles outside of Shanghai, thousands of households into the kitchen.
Our station wagon in the desert 46 km highway opened, came to the Tarim River Bridge. North Shore Road on both sides of the bridge, there are a dozen companies Fanpu the past, drivers, visitors to stay here to eat a lot also. Probably have entered the desert hinterland, hot afternoon of exceptions, the majority of peer-group members in a shabby hotel to relax, we have a few people braved the hot sun and more than 40 ℃, high temperature, came to the bridge. More than 600 meters long bridge, bridge and that his mouth a lot of sediment, as the same muddy water of the Yellow River, the Tarim River is the long-famous! Bridge near the river width of 200 meters, 100 meters under water part.
From the information inside that, the Tarim River is China's longest inland river, from the Aksu River and Yarkand River, Hotan River confluence of three rivers in the Awat County, only after the Tarim said. Originated in the Kunlun Mountains from the starting date of the Yarkand Heyuan a total length of 2179 kilometers. By Aksu River to the largest water. In the lower reaches of rivers branching and more flooding period of no fixed river channel, easy diversions. In the Uygur language, the "Tarim" in there "branch, branch" means. Tarim sides are distributed nationwide with the largest area of natural Populus euphratica, has been designated as nature reserves.
Sagittarius the whole regiment in the northern Tarim River to eat, rest to 19:00 Beijing time, the weather was cooler before filming started to enter today's theme: Populus euphratica. We are the regiment's group of photographers, in order to shoot Populus euphratica, in the intolerable heat of the boil had been 67 hours, and this time, they are about their masterpiece, like to put a fight. Populus euphratica side just a station wagon stopped, then we jumped out of car, carrying heavy equipment, the respective depths of the woods behind the sandbags go ... ... more than two hours later, the sun did not completely into the horizon, people reluctantly back to the masses to the car.
Hu Yang a "Desert King" laudatory title, legend it is "alive a thousand years die, die a thousand years does not fall, down a thousand years immortal." We are shooting is near the Tarim River dried up a do not know what the old course of the year, mostly dead tree Populus euphratica not be brought down. Populus euphratica alive, we must wait until the leaves yellow in autumn when the United States, is now only shoot those said to be "dead, a thousand years would not fall in," a dried tree. Indeed, many people appreciate this "tragic" and "desolate," said to have dignified sense of history. However, in this piece of legislation of Populus euphratica dry forest before us, we did not realize "dead but not down" and "Hero" spirit, can only feel for human nature's merciless revenge!
Guide told us about: Hu Yang, Uygur language is called "Tohti Lack," but some Han people to Xinjiang, Populus mistakenly known as the "Indus", turned out the people in southern Xinjiang has always been the dead wood of Populus euphratica to do to fight back, and Uighur firewood is pronounced "Oh-pass," Han people hear the pronunciation, the mistakenly believe that this is the real name of Populus euphratica. Populus heterophylla, also known as Yang, and its top or saplings is a long strip of leaf, while the lower part of the tree or adult tree leaves are oval-shaped, a tree two kinds of leaves, very interesting. Populus euphratica is widely distributed in arid desert trees, especially resistant to drought, salinity, fast growth, in the Tarim River, the lower reaches of the distribution of the largest along the river corridor-shaped belt formed.
Tour guide also mentioned that the meaning of the name of the Taklimakan Desert, he said: For a long time, many books on Chinese language introduced in Xinjiang, said, "Taklamakan is a Uighur 'go get out' means." In fact, Victoria where there is no language in this meaning, people incorrectly relay erroneous messages Bale. According to Uighur linguists study to date to see the ancient Uyghur literature, in a 18th-century manuscript written in the book, there was some Taklamakan The name. Dimensional language "Ma Dry" is a residence, house or home, meaning their homes; "Clara" has the meaning of or abandoned at the bottom, the two words together, can be translated as "buried in the ground housing" or " abandonment of the homeland, "escape the" past their homes. " As the flow of the desert, many of the ancient oasis and towns have been buried deep in the desert, past the homes into a vast Sand Sea, "Taklamakan" has become around the Tarim Basin oasis where residents of the ancient homeland of the bitter memories and a vast desert, Pan said that, as every piece of farmland near sand, then each individual's name. During this explanation, well-founded and convincing, specially recorded in this for friends who are interested reference.
We are at GMT 10:00 driving northbound, there is no Luntai County into the city, but Xiecha to 28 farms in Taiwan is still walking westbound State Road 314, arrived in Kuqa county, is already 1:10, and live in Kucha Hotel . Kucha, pronounced as "Autumn Zi", the ancient name of Kuqa area.
The fourth day (May 30, 2002)
Yesterday went to Kuqa, is middle of the night. To Ganpai sunrise, 7:00 GMT today, was barely dawn, but also set off to sleep less than four hours. 7:30 (according to the place where the operator only 4:30), arrived in Kuqa County, about 20 kilometers northwest of Yanshuigou scenic spots. Here is a "Jadin" Landform. Tilted rocks of different hardness, in the torrential rain and flood and wind erosion of working together, are carved into the rugged magnificent strangely shaped, it is just amazing here, Mother Nature. According to information on, there has always been Tianshan road in a traffic hub, Han and Tang period, from Kucha (now Kuqa) to Regardless of Mexico (now Akzo), Shule (present-day Kashgar) beyond, here must be passed through Rd. So far Yanshuigou area, but also left a lot of more than 2000 years ago, Feng Sui Shu Fort remains.
"Potala Palace" is a Yanshuigou the northern section of a scenic attraction, the opposite may be based on the shape of rock is named, the general coach is a driving and before, we dip photography travel light, where a good shot a while.
9:00 and more, we take the station wagon line of State Road 217 north, at noon, arrived in Kuqa County, 60 kilometers away from the Grand Canyon scenic area. Here is the offshoot Keziliya South Tianshan Mountain (Uighur means "red hill"), so-called "Tianshan Mysterious Grand Canyon", the original is red sand clay rock by large faults and the geological formation of the deep winding gorges, north-south length of about 4 ~ 5 km, 5 ~ 10 meters wide valley, narrow at less than 1 meter, there is running water. In recent years, new discoveries within the valley of the Tang Dynasty Buddhist Ruins - A Yi caves now become tourist attractions. Did not expect is that deep in the Tianshan Mountains, actually built a "Grand Canyon Hotel," located on canyon mouth. Guest rooms with standard rooms and 2 bathroom with a humble human, arranged for us to live in the latter, there is no television, not a bath, because the cool mountains, we did not feel called to. After lunch, fill up and feel asleep for three hours, we have several photographers with their peers, along the Kuqa River 3 km downstream more than take pictures agh Kuqa River middle reaches of the nearby village across the scenery. The red rock mountains, is a former South Tianshan mountain belt.
Front of this bright red hills and mountains, reminds us of the west of Kuqa, wood Sarter River Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves, caves around the mountain is so red, "Kizil", Uygur language means red. Kizil Grottoes is the largest in Xinjiang, save the better the Han and Tang Buddhist ruins, and its value after the Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. Original plan, we are going there this trip, the latter due to travel changes, did not go into. However, we have in previous years, met in the Kucha Caves Research Institute, stayed a few days, the major caves are visited. To not feel regret.
Night shelter "Grand Canyon Hotel," mountain fresh air, cool, and yesterday's hot and dry side of the Tarim River is simply two of the world, and we slept comfortably.
On the fifth day (May 31, 2002)
An early start, along the Kuqa Hebei Province, the ancient city through the Ayi, left bank of the Han and Tang Dynasties, when coal and iron sites, etc., were not stopping. Drifting high into the depths of Tianshan Mountains, winding roads and build, this is crossing the ice-Daban, southern and northern parts of the independent communication library (Dushanzi to Kuqa) highway, also known as State Road 217 lines.
OK to more than 2300 meters height, road side of the rain suddenly appeared a pool of clear water, clear bottomed out, and that color very much like a television picture of Jiuzhaigou. "Look, the small Longchi!" As the tour guide cry, the whole car up and people are jubilant. No wonder, since the departure Bosten later, we have never seen such a tranquil water features of the. Kuqa County, 140 kilometers south to where the lake 2,500 square meters, 2320 meters above sea level.
Small Longchi indeed a bit small, but her beauty is still to make our photographers are excited about the car just stopped, then we dispersed after choosing the best shooting position. In the little dragons pool beside the road, we are looking down from above and found that the surrounding scenery is more spectacular, did not immediately followed everyone down to the pool, first left a few photos, also left the mountains, wildflowers, as well as joy.
To leave the small Longchi, our station wagon along the winding mountain roads and on the library alone and jumped over a hill, a large leap into the lake fundus, which is heard so much about the name of the "big longchi." Great Longchi really big, 2.5 km from east to west, north and south 1 km wide, small compared to Longchi simply asked, really pale into insignificance. Lake 2390 meters above sea level. On the map marked as "Joan kul," Uighur language is "Great Lakes" means. There are marked on old maps as "dalaoba", and also the image. In fact, we have just seen the tiger pool of water, all from the big Longchi come from the ground and infiltration, and they are interlinked water up and down two lakes.
Tai Lung pool cool climate, fresh air, open lake, makes people feel good, and we simply get off on foot along the lake is very pleasant. There are many great Longchi cold water fish, small fish on board fishing people are out fishing. Cold-water fish because of the growth is very slow, especially delicious fish. Team leader at the lake bought a few dried salted fish, we narat dinner, please restaurant kitchens processing a moment, and indeed popular.
After a big Longchi, cars have been climbing along the mountain road, winding road was "in" shape, in the cliffs, after turning twelve, and finally to a single library highways of the highest, the most risky locations - Teary buy Tida Osaka, everyone's heart was hung loose down. 3400 meters above sea level, is a watershed in southern Tianshan. Daban (Victoria semantics of Yamaguchi, slopes), the top office, built a famous Highway Tunnel, this iron up to 1894 meters where Amat tunnel, I heard that engineers took two years to dig pass. Car passed through the tunnel, then enter from the Kuqa County, and static county. We stand on snow and ice did not melt the north of the tunnel mouth, hands holding flowers, or in the large dragon pool mining of it! Only between a few hours, we have gone from summer to winter season transformation.
Coming down the mountain, went to a vast prairie Bayinbuluke unparalleled. Knew Bayinbuluke big, really coming here, or by its "big" to Zheng Zhu of the! Full of wild flowers and grass, it is inspired with enthusiasm. To look for materials that, here in the Bayingolin Mongol Autonomous Prefecture in western Hejing County, is located between the northern Tianshan and South Tianshan. Ancient geological rift, forming a small Jules Meadows two basins (also known as Mongolian: Pearl Le Tusi, meaning the Magic Lamp, the stars), the amount of Corbin Mountain (also known as Mongolian: Al Wengen ula ) western separated the meantime, two things that each basin, about 100 kilometers long from north to south the width 20 to 25 kilometers, more than 2,400 meters above sea level. Open both the upper reaches of the river flow has to wear a small, large two basins, the formation of flat, lush Bayinbuluke steppes, an area of about 2 million square kilometers, known as the country's second prairie, but also an important animal husbandry base in Xinjiang. Pastoralists living in the grasslands is a 1771 from the Volga east of the river owned by the motherland and spit part of the Ministry of Er-Hu special descendants. "Bayinbuluke", Mongolian means: a wealth of springs.
At noon, arrived in Bayinbuluke located in an area, there is a north-south street, several small shops and restaurants, mostly in Mongolian people here apparently. After dinner, are prepared to climb into 212 small car to open both Swan Lake and River "9 18 bends", suddenly filled with clouds, with rain to the plateau on the weather, saying that as they please, scheme can not change, were dropped. The coveted "Swan Lake" did not go into, and perhaps foreboding future, we will come back. Kaidu River "9 18 bends," naturally does not become a film, with regret, we hit the road. Dealers Soon, suddenly, along the south side of the ditty flow, attracting everyone's attention, this is exactly like a "9 18 Bend," the scene, we are without any explanation, immediately get off the rain beat up and fight. Never mind that a few films, really a bit "confused as real ones." Of course, from the information point of view, the real "9 18 bends," a much larger scale than this, there is an open Miyakogawa middle reaches, the river have a broad number. In general, the flat grasslands of the river, the formation of such a meander metropolis.
Good-bye to prairie, station wagons in the mountains north of the amount of Corbin turned northbound, drove into the rugged mountain path, which is south of the northern Tianshan branch - narat Hill. From the data on that, there is an east-west mountain the trail is the famous "Tianshan Road." Turpan in the east on this road, westbound alagou, balgantai, narat, kunas, direct Ili. According to archaeological discoveries, from Allah to the Ili ditch along this ancient road, showing zonal distribution of many Cypriot tombs, ancient remains prompt us here valley, Yamaguchi, as early as 3,000 years ago, we printed our ancestors footprint. This is a shortcut across the Tianshan Mountains hinterland, the ancient some major military operations, such as the Tang Binh Dinh Western Turkic Khaganate Shabolüe Lu insurrection; the footsteps of Genghis Khan all the way; the Qing pacification of the Department of rebellion Junggar, are taking part in this Road to enter the Ili. Some people think that this mountain is also a branch of the Silk Road Prairie.
Road climb that La Tida Osaka, along with the height of the landscape to reduce the gradient, elevation 3,000 meters from top to bottom, is the alpine meadow grassland, vegetation low. Auto winding around a few bends, roadside valley exposed spruce trees, go down, he saw the tree waist, and progress downward, roadside tree full of thick, straight of the spruce forest. Information on, this is "Schrenk spruce" pure forest, is the Ili region of Tianshan mountain ranges of each species unique to the crown narrow, tall and sturdy as the characteristics, distribution and at an altitude of 1400 ~ 2700 meters in Zhongshan band, in the dense forests , tree height up to 50 ~ 60 meters, trees are in three or four hundred years or more rated the most of Xinjiang. Schrenk's spruce and are located in the eastern Tianshan Mountains Bogda Mountains, such as "Tianshan spruce" comparison, in the shape there are obvious differences, the latter open, such as canopy crown. Guide in particular tells us: a lot of books, when discussing the Tianshan Mountains, regarded spruce mistaken for a pine tree. In fact, the Tianshan mountain vegetation, there is no pine trees.
Kunas continue down along the valley road, in the spruce forest of the lower edge, you can see the forest there are also some broad-leaved trees such as birch, maple tree, Populus, etc. to form a so-called "conifer." Spruce forest edge and many volts the growth of creeping evergreen shrub climbing to Bo (also some data to write to "climb pine", scientific name Sabina vulgaris Ant), heard that, Kazakhs with its branches smoked horse intestines, unique flavor . In the mountains and forests of the sunny slope between the distribution of a mountain meadow grasslands, grazing, wild flowers everywhere, here is the renowned kunas grasslands, is a new source of county main summer pasture. The way down, it began to rain, water vapor diffuse in the spruce forest, such as fog and like clouds, white sheep on the pasture from time to time in the car window flash really picturesque!
6:00 pm GMT more than 217 national highway through the line and 218 line of intersection of two roads, turn west to go 218 lines, not far from reaching the "narat Prairie Village," the source here in the new county a very east kunas Henan Coast River floodplain, the elevation is about 1,500 meters. Turn left from the 218 national highway cross the bridge into the resort area, there is a jeep stopped at the bridge, to close tickets per person 20.
Surprisingly, a Pilates go there, the rain live, the sun came out. We are a car person, like Genghis Khan of the expeditionary force arrived in the year to climb over snow narat Daban, as Han Qi not help but loudly: "narat! Narat!" (Mongolian, meaning "sun" . Qing Dynasty literature translated as: Na La special. investigation, "the Western Regions with the Man Chi" has note said: "quasi-language, Hiiro Zhao Lin of that.")
We just get off, there is a lot of the local Malay Kazakh herdsmen holding to solicit business, saying that the money could be 10 to ride 3 to 5 miles, but also to bargain, they speak some Chinese cities. It appears that tourism has gradually become an important part of these generations pastoral income.
Our great surprise, in this piece of Kazakh clan has lived in the grasslands in pastoral areas, it is not only built the resort, there are well-equipped standard rooms, there are the Han Sichuanese restaurant business. The past few days, we finally ate one meal of meat and stewed big PIG ELBOW, coupled with the cold-water fish to buy from the big Longchi and cold vegetables, really makes Jie Chan!
On the sixth day (June 1, 2002)
In order to seize the best time for photography, was barely dawn, I heard the faithful group of footsteps in the corridor and the low murmur, and we rushed up and around the resort looking for subjects. Here the morning, "mountain breeze" strong, there are always five or six bar.
Resort to the north kunas river, the river width of more than 50 meters, the mountains yesterday, rainfall, river water turbid and turbulent. Ullas river opposite the village of Taiwan, Mongolian meaning mountain poplar place. Guide give us, in Xinjiang on the map, there are many "Ullas Taiwan," The name can usually be judged, that area is often inhabited by Mongolian herders in pastoral areas, or had lived in Mongolia, where herders names left .
The morning, we have great interest with several of the group 8 km ride up, to Forestry Department owned "national" "Forest Park" into a look, disappointed. Under the original only in the slope forest edge, open a straight road, repair a number of accommodation, catering premises, and nothing more. From the "forest park" killjoys come out, we and two of the group, gang rented a "taxi" into the mountains (did not think, in this far from the town of grassland pastures, yet there are taxi!), Speak a good price, on the down from 25 yuan, it is estimated that about 78 kilometers. We ride on the "taxi" along the newly repaired disk mountain, board Peak. The car, we can not help but cheer up, our eyes are one of the picturesque scenery: distant sky is the snow-capped mountains, the sun shining shining; opposite hillside there is a large flock in the slow movement, there are several hundred feet , as if a cloud and landed on the grasslands; we own are full of wild flowers exposure to the grass, next to a few head of cattle and camels grazing leisurely; Kazakh yurt on Piaoqi curl smoke, a number of pastoralists are to the new base Nang pit (roasted Nang stoves) wiping mud ... ... it is indeed there was a sense of reverting to simplicity.
Back to accommodation search map, I discovered that the rolling mountains of snow, is kunas between the valley and its river valley north of Kashgar Abu Gelles Hill (on the map marked as follows: Awulale Hill. Qing Dynasty literature, said: Ulan kutu Ridge), belongs to a section of the Tianshan Mountains to the Eastward high, about 4,000 meters above sea level. Data said that this mountain metallurgy and mineral-rich, as early as the Spring and Autumn Period has mining, smelting, still has ruins of the mountain had also found that many of continuous distribution of ancient rock art created by pastoralists.
Hillside, there is a profusion of herbs, celery leaf-shaped, called nettle (sound qianma), its stems and leaves birth to tiny hairs, careless hit, the skin will be their primary concern unbearable, it is those containing formic acid villus reasons. Did not expect that the day of a dinner salad vegetables, surprisingly enough, the top of the nettle leaves do, taste is also very delicious! Attendants presentations, is to use water boiled, then mixed with spices Serve. It is said that there is nothing wrong occasionally eat less, eat would be poisoned. In addition, if the nettle Citeng, can be close to pulling a number of humilis, crumble to bits repeatedly rubbing pain, they may eliminate their primary concern.
Afternoon, the tour has been originally planned to hire a local herders show "horse race", "Diaoyang" and "chasing girls" for all shooting. Heard, the charges are 800 yuan. Unfortunately, so the riders were well organized, has changed a venue, was delayed more than an hour, and the heavens overcast down, but also between a light rain, the photographic effect far from ideal.
In the evening, most of the group braved the rain up the hill to waiting for the sunset, sunset shoot. We see overcast days, did not follow to go after dinner back home, turn on the TV ready to watch soccer's World Cup coverage. Suddenly, the open windows on, there has been a blur of reflected sunset, the horizon clear up the! We all got together to bring cameras, Duomen out, heading straight for the southern resort of "viewing platform",抢拍sunset. Viewing platform location, in the left bank of four river kunes terrace high on the slope, with the resort where a relative altitude terraces, about fifty or sixty meters. Along a small brook, there is a water fender paved narrow road, through top of the hill, this is the resort "infrastructure" is one.
In order to reach the top of the hill in time before sunset, we are anxious to step forward two steps and make straight tired out of breath. Coupled with the trench spruce, dense forests, deep silence, I find the sky dark, but also generate a bit of fear. Come to an end paths across Xigou small bridges have been washed off flash floods, thanks to a falling tree and became a temporary bridge. After a stream straight to the side of steep slopes, there are hundreds of stairs, climb, we feel that all seemed to jump out to a Xinzi. Half an hour to catch a mountain, and finally into the distant hills in the sun without the first 5 minutes, stepped onto the observation deck. This is a flat the size of a football field high ground overlooking the valley kunas.
Then, in the western sky, the golden day round the lower edge, are spit out from a cloud inside two minutes, the entire Japanese side all significant, suddenly golden light jet. Just at that time, fast, less than 3 minutes, the sun slowly sinking into a distant ridge. At the moment, is Beijing 9:55. We photographed the entire process of the sunset, finally a worthwhile trip.
The seventh day (June 2, 2002)
Leave narat morning, shot a decent resort inside the sculpture - both hands and milk tea Kazakh girl. Hospital there are several statues of "Prairie Shiren," imitation, this ancient nomads of art, style Guzhuo, ruggedness. It is said that the Tianshan and Altai Mountains in the vast grassland, scattered with many of these stone carvings, is erected in the tomb of the deceased's full or half stone, large over 2 meters high and weighing nearly 2 tons, a small 1 m high and more hundreds of kilograms of weight, all with large boulders or pebbles carving is made great archaeological value.
Village next to the marsh there are more than a dozen camels, has been head down in the grass, the old is not gaining ground, as if deliberately not let us shoot a shot with head held high, a small camel, eating her mother's milk, we had to wait for a long time, it only raised his head, gave us a face. In fact, more than a camel, grasslands, we saw cows, horses, sheep, are nonstop to bow their heads in such a non-grazing, also like to spend their life. At this point, we secretly for himself as a fortunate person.
9:50 am Beijing time, left narat along the right bank of 218 kunas River State Road westbound, due to the north line of road, from the Croatian town of Shui Taiwan south via a new source of county and then to the west, changing to go 316 provincial highway, At noon, over the Turks River Bridge, after Gongliu County, the picked up 220 provincial highway, cross the bridge from the Yama Figure Ili, over Yining county, noon, 3 pm Beijing time, to reach the coveted city of Yining living Ili River Road, Taoyuan hotel.
The afternoon, to the downtown area and "Chinese Street", etc. tourism, this in order to "Garden City" famous Ili Kazak Autonomous Prefecture, city dirty, disappointing, we have absolutely no interest in photography. Also to the Ili River Bridge, the river, was a "turning wave," but the bridge at both ends of the shore, restaurants, entertainment facilities, smells, visitors crowded, dusty, stay a quarter of an hour, they also inadvertently shot, only very few pedestrians on the bridge to take advantage of of the gap, took a "tour this one", on the bus back to his hotel. In the famous city of Yining, leaving only a photo!
第八天（ 2002 年6 月3 日）
一大早，在蒙蒙细雨中，离开伊宁市。出市区走国道218 线向西北行驶，北京时间10 点，拐进霍城县的惠远乡，参观清代伊犁将军府遗址的“钟鼓楼”。此城楼位于该地十字街心，保存较完好。
据资料，清乾隆年间，平定北疆准噶尔和南疆大小和卓叛乱之后，重新统一新疆，于1762 年设置“总统伊犁等处将军”（简称“伊犁将军”），统辖天山南北包括巴尔喀什湖以东以南及帕米尔高原的广大地区，是清代新疆的最高军政长官。伊犁将军府址设在伊犁河北岸新筑的惠远城，这里是当时全新疆的腹心地区，此后120 年间，惠远成为全疆的军事、政治、经济、文化中心。当年的惠远城内商号林立，市面繁华。在惠远城四周还先后建了8 座卫星城，就是历史上有名的“伊犁九城”。
1871 年沙俄侵占伊犁地区，惠远城被毁。 1882 年清政府收复伊犁后，在旧城西北5 公里处，另筑惠远新城，布局一如旧城。其后，惠远新城也曾盛极一时，电灯、电报、电话、照相、汽车的引进，曾居内地之先，是“西陲一大都会”，被誉为“小北京”。
到民国初年，旅行家谢彬在其《新疆游记》内记述，旧伊犁将军署仅存“败瓦颓垣数十间”，“满目荒凉”，有“不胜今昔之感”。 1937 年以后，伊犁地区的行政中心迁至宁远城（今伊宁市），惠远城这个二百多年前新疆的统治中心，渐次废弃。
今天看到的，只是一个极普通的乡镇街市，我们登上钟鼓楼，凭吊四野，已经很难想象出这里往日的辉煌。北街东侧一院内，有古树若干株，传说系民族英雄林则徐流放伊犁期间手植，可惜院门紧锁，围墙又高，未能进去。
离开惠远乡继续沿国道218 线西北行，由霍城县城西侧经过，未进城。至清水河镇，上312 国道，折向东北行。国道312 线东起上海，西至霍尔果斯边境口岸，全长4825 公里，长度仅次于上海至西藏的318 线，在新疆境内从星星峡镇起算为1431 公里。
一路小雨，进入果子沟依然雨雾蒙蒙，行至新二台附近，天顶突然放晴，周围山头，云汽涌动，瞬息万变，大家欢呼着下车拍照。
据资料介绍，果子沟，清代称塔勒奇沟，又称塔勒奇达坂，是北天山西段一条东北—西南向的峡谷，长28 公里。此沟形势险要，自古为天山北路通往伊犁河谷的咽喉。沟侧山岭间遍布野果林，野苹果最多，春夏之交，山花烂漫，有“万花谷”的美称，果子沟由此得名。 1218 年，成吉思汗西征中亚， 30 万铁骑奔驰伊犁，命次子察合台汗率军开凿塔勒奇通道。 《长春真人西游记》记载此事称：“二太子扈从西征，始凿石理道，刊木为四十八桥，桥可并车。”果子沟成为从蒙古草原通往汗国都城阿力麻里（在今霍城县境）的重要孔道。到清乾隆年间以后，果子沟的交通地位更为突出，自峡口到精河县境，曾设5 座军台驿站，在沟内有头台、二台两站，负责传递朝廷政令和边务军情。后来，头台到五台这些军台名称，演变为地名，保留至今。现在沟内的公路道班等设施所在地，叫新二台。
我们下车照相的地方，就在新二台桥边。 1946 年，当时主持新疆的张治中将军与三区代表，曾在新二台派出所门前合过影。我们在一本叫《往事回眸——20世纪新疆图片纪实》的书里，见过这张照片。这里的景致果然不错。果子沟里，并不如我们原来想象的，漫山遍野长满了果树，山坡上还是以云杉林为主。在云杉纯林的下部及林缘，混交生长有白桦、红桦、山杨、天山槭以及野苹果、山杏等野果树，这些阔叶树多沿河沟分布，从公路上看过去，往往最先夺人眼目，尤其在花季，或许因此才有“果子沟”之称。
中午，我们的旅行车到达塔勒奇达坂的最高处——松树头，由其南侧可俯瞰果子沟，谷内云杉林苍翠，山巅云雾缭绕。站在松树头南坡的观景台上，遥望脚下的群山，微风拂面，十分快意，感觉赏心悦目。
北京时间12 点半，旅行车翻过松树头山口，一片开阔湛蓝的水面突然出现在我们眼前，全车人齐声欢呼起来，“赛里木湖！赛里木湖！”湖畔茂密的野花，让我们的脚步再也无法挪动，大家一个个扑向草地，忘乎一切地拍摄起来，几位团友索性躺卧在花丛中，去尽情享受这塞外美景。
导游向我们介绍：赛里木湖位于北天山西段一个完全闭塞的高位山间盆地内，在博乐市境西南角。从地图上看，略呈椭圆形，东西长30 公里，南北宽20 多公里（不少书刊把这两个数字搞颠倒了，还以讹传讹），面积454 平方公里，湖面海拔2073 米，最大水深约90 米。这个湖，没有河流注入，湖水由周围坡地集水、湖面降水及地下水补给；也没有出口，水量去向全靠蒸发。水量收支基本平衡，近50 年来，湖水位并无大的升降，稳定的岸边线就是证明。湖盆积盐过程缓慢，属微咸湖。湖滨是广阔优良的夏牧场，山坡生长着茂密的云杉林，湖周环绕积雪的群山，湖光山色，美不胜收。这里是新疆旅游景点中，又一绝佳之处。 “赛里木”，据说是哈萨克语，祝福、平安之意。
国道312 线在赛里木湖东南湖滨延伸20 多公里，是从乌鲁木齐往来伊犁的必经之路。东南岸边有清代设置的军台驿站——三台，因此，湖名又俗称“三台海子”。旧日的驿站，早已难觅踪迹，如今，沿湖公路旁，新建了许多餐饮、住宿等旅游设施，还见到游艇码头，颇有在此大力开发旅游资源的架势。
我们下榻处，安排在湖西南岸边一度假村里。下公路左拐向西沿湖滨土路开进去5 公里左右，草场斜坡上建有几排红顶的木屋便是。系由博尔塔拉蒙古自治州旅游局开设，有大小木屋数幢，大型蒙古包式餐厅两座，厕所亦是一小木屋，偏于一角，可同时供男女各一人“洗手”。
午饭是在大蒙古包内吃“纳仁”，即手抓羊肉加捞面条，据导游手册介绍，这是哈萨克族的一种饭食，不过服务小姐的确是蒙古族。
午饭后，我们从蒙古包出来，准备回小木屋的房间休息一会儿，正顺着斜坡的台阶往下走，突然见到一群骆驼沿湖滨拥来，我们赶忙向度假村大门口奔去，一边跑一边掏相机、对镜头……可惜驼群已经走过，只拍到了几张背影。过去以为骆驼都生活在戈壁沙漠上，不想在这山清水秀、草木茂盛的地方，却见到了这样大的驼群。
整个下午，我们都在湖边、草地、花丛中，尽情倘样，一个个都象孩子般天真、兴奋……
第九天（ 2002 年6 月4 日）
一夜大雨倾盆，电闪雷鸣，我们住的小木屋多处漏雨，半夜起来挪床，木床沉得拉不动，只好掉过头来睡，几乎彻夜未眠。都知道新疆是极干旱的地区，可是听说赛里木的夏季，几乎天天晚上下大雨，也许，这正是赛里木湖水的重要来源。
清早，天刚现鱼肚白，我们就抓紧时间去湖滨拍照。出去以后才发现，我们的团友们早就在湖边支起了三脚架，等着日出呢。因为东方云厚，没能拍到“日出”，但染上朝晖的雪山，还颇有气势。
拍了几张自己还满意的照片，有：“日出前的赛里木”，一片寂静，羊群还在圈里酣睡；偶然抓拍到一张“羊吃牛奶”的有趣镜头；还有一张是趴在雨后的草地上，弄湿了全身才拍到的“雪山下的野花”。
早饭后，我们一行离开赛里木，踏上了归程。北京时间10 点半发车东行，沿湖滨公路绕行约半小时，过三台后，即向东一路大下坡，经四台，过五台，方进入准噶尔盆地西南边缘；下午1 点过精河县，3 点半在乌苏县城外公路旁午饭，过奎屯河后，随即上乌奎高速公路，一路小雨，下午7 点抵乌鲁木齐市区。至此，结束了这次令人难忘的天山旅游。
这次九天的摄影旅游，三度翻越天山，沿途经过22 个县市，住宿7 处，几乎一天换一个地方，行色匆匆。但是，天山南北的美景，给我们留下了深刻的印象，尽管我们只接触到很少的一部分。一年后的今天，依然让我们回味无穷。
Author: fzpwm
