Summer went to Yunnan, from Dali, Lijiang and then Zhongdian, Deqin, 20 days of time reminding us of scenes clouds, from the initial flat to later surprise, everything is there beyond my expectations. Originally did not intend to write travelogues, but always have a friend who wanted me to give them some information. So the next thing was to do with the Notes from finishing, perhaps they will help Mix Bar!
July 22 Shanghai - Kunming at noon 12:42, K79 to deliver the car, my trip to Yunnan is also the beginning.
I do not know how many times on board long distance trains, and only remember two years ago this summer is also in this the first time I boarded the long-distance trains, destined for Xining, Kunming, this time it is. This time will probably be my last long journey, and I feel a little lonely.
The train speed along the road King flies. Through the home, feeling that some strange, but I do not know why.
PS:
K79, Shanghai - Kunming, China and lying: 506
Meals: 15
Sub-total: 521
July 23 Shanghai - Kunming noon to Huaihua, and then enter the Guizhou. So together, look at this I have never been to the provinces.
The tunnel one after another, as if there are an infinite number of off endless cave, seems to be "in no three feet flat", that is not the slightest exaggeration composition; mountains gradually, more buildings, wooden structures, there are always bright red in front of couplet; the water is very clear, there are a lot of kids playing inside; buffalo is a leisurely soak in the water; layers of lush terraces, some probably Miao women, wearing rain hats and carrying a child walking on the ridge.
Guiyang is the night, half an hour late.
PS:
Meals: 20
Sub-total: 20
July 24 Kunming - Dali, 8:00 am, the train stops on time.
Out of the station turn right, a few minutes to the bus terminal will be able to buy a first class into the marble of the car, the fare is actually more than 100, how was that not until later that crazy expensive, this is something for the!
Although known as "high-speed passenger" cars, which opened like a snail-like, until 3:30 p.m. to Shimonoseki. This is from the city and 10 km. If you have strong financial background, you can play, and the cost is not known, estimated at around 20; if you do not fight, then there is a site right out of station, sitting 4-way car, can be the ancient city of 1.2 Yuan per person. A very good side who took the initiative to help bring back the empty bag into the car at.
In the South Gate to get off what would have also wanted to MCA, but I have three days without a bath, and so close to living next to the "Three Friends of the Inn", 20 / person. I showered, leaning against the bed, one will sleep later.
Is already up more than 6 points, and plotting to洋人街dinner. Innkeeper kept highly exaggerated lucky, because today is precisely that they Bai's Torch Festival. Oh, really unexpected outbreak!
Dali some unworthy of the name, most buildings are new, nine years after the earthquake is said to be new, the antique city known more appropriate bar.
The sky dimming, have not yet found洋人街, then casually looked for a sit down.
At dusk, the Torch Festival of the atmosphere has gradually emerged, originally erected in front of a giant torch from each to the people's hands, the Torch Festival of the adventure makes me a little by surprise!
Between each of the hands of the street everyone would take the same things, some people are torches, and more people will be a bag of rosin powder, the general situation is to take a torch followed by a group of loose powder. Every time someone close to passing a torch, the latter in due course people will throw a loose powder, so a person or body on the side sprang a fireball, or a mixture of several more screaming, howling! ! When the whole city is full of such scenes, as well as with repeated shouts of screaming, my feeling is: It looks more like a riot! !
In fact, of course, there is no such terror, those who "arson" is a must have in the veteran can always grasp the sense of proportion, and will not hurt someone else. However, there are ambulances all night shuttle forward, and still see someone gauze around his head. Said to have a girl holding a torch because of the posture is incorrect (which seems to still have a lot of knowledge of the!!), Was burned half the hair I do not know really. But I also, unfortunately, caught during the period was certainly, but fortunately, relatively rugged pants, causing me to feel sorry for quite a while, bought a new quick-drying pants several times not to wear it! !
Right in the torch left suddenly flash, experience, and after the second false alarm, and finally tight encirclement, Khan! !
Throughout the Torch Festival can be a word to describe: crazy!
Eleven more to sit outside a bar in洋人街FB, "torches were" gradually calmed down, the street boys and girls began to play a different game, with the injector (also commonly used in the kind of wedding 94) chase each other, injection, either do not know whether the other side. After repeated observation of comparison, I concluded that: the most found that the bubble is long of the most ... ...! ! Should be can not be wrong!
Back to the Inn and found that I do not know when, the camera lens was sprinkled with loose powder, heartache: (
PS:
Kunming - Dali: 101.5
Bus: 1.2
Dinner: 28
FB: 20
Calling Card: 25
Live: 20
Sub-total: 176
July 25 Dali - Lijiang said to be "romantic" is from Dali, and that "on the customs of the wind, a flower of Shimonoseki; Cangshan snow, Erhai month."
Cangshan is now estimated that there is no snow, and moreover there are Yulong, Merrill waiting for us then, so would just like to go to Lake Erhai. Choose Erhai Another reason is that I want to see Xu Wei songs of Erhai what sort of!
Eight, 2-way car ride to the Erhai Lake edge transfer "ideal" cruise ship fee is 25 / person, and later heard other people say is actually on board 60, even 80 / person, the Zhengou injustice.
Erhai Lake is more I am disappointed, of course, this is also inevitable, because it is more object is Namco. Similarly, because of Nam Co, last year saw Cypriot Satoki, the heart is also rising disappointment. Namco do not know why I was actually so obsessed!
Several islands are also Erhai mediocrity, but added an Island (Kam Sho, Elvin Island) on the Hope Primary School was impressed, very nationalization gate. It is said, what exactly is the Dongba days, the island has a lot of old lady in the burning incense to Buddha; on the island still has not sold a herb that is obscene chinensis fruit, shape, and its functionality can be said to complement each other! !
On the island to try the "fairy fruit," produced cactus. I think it's bad, there are a lot of seed. People may prefer tropical fruits would be interested in it!
Perhaps because tourism development is too serious here, people are more sophisticated, and feel bad.
12:30 back to shore, two road vehicles to switch to 4-way car park to the Three Pagodas reflection. The reason not to Three Pagodas Park is said to be 52 Tai Yuen ticket, which is something that can be astronomical for the park, and What film is the reflection of Three Pagodas Park is better. Tickets 4 yuan / person.
3:00 carriage back to the ancient city, by the way sent a postcard, ate two kinds of cold drinks, there is a similar to the jelly can be.
4:00 riding Shimonoseki to Lijiang car, ticket through the inn-keeper set of the votes, not numbers, so early on the train. Behavior of women in the car a real insight I had, "bitch," this category. Actually has a lot of women, it looks like early 20s, but I still think that using this term more appropriate. Men should not be to her father, who had it, as the labor contractor look!
8 pm to Lijiang, with a pedestrian crossing a food market to the city, and this is a real ancient city of. But there are too many people, the ancient city should have a kind of quiet here is elusive and ambition, and perhaps to the low season for tourism would be better bar!
The tourist season brought about another problem is not easy to find a place to live Moreover, again in the evening to the. After a series of several, after a well-intentioned boss brought his friend to help it. This is a shop selling handicrafts, the boss named Zhang, to produce their own heat transfer sell. He said his room is the reception of foreign artists come, and usually did not receive guests, but now just empty. Oh, also appears to enjoy a return to the artist's treatment, really rare!
To lay down their backpacks, scrubbing a bit hasty, hurried out to fill their stomachs.
Walking in the bustling crowd, a little bit lost their sense.
Finally found that well-known "mom paid" hotel. After a long while, I point pizza finally come up. Although I have always been particular about eating nothing, but I have to admit that this group of Sa ... ... distasteful to the extreme! !
PS:
Erhai Lake Cruise: 25
Snacks + Map: 10 +6
Postcards: 22
Dali - Lijiang: 35
Live: 20
Lunch: 5
Dinner: 25
Tickets (Kojima + santa reflection of Erhai Park): 8 +4
Carriage: 5
Sub-total: 165
July 26, today you want to just stroll the ancient city of Lijiang, it was up more than 9 points. People are still a lot. Wandered a shop plastered with photos - "Shadow Friends of the Salon", the boss surnamed Peng and others, commonly known as Doris said to engage in photography for many years in this, you can help contact chartered, so with him about the car to the Lugu Lake, 60 / person. In fact, if bargaining can be 50, but I have always been the teacher has added the title of respect, but also no also, seems to have changed since changed!
Unwittingly walked into a named "Jianhua Leisure Inn" hotel, a street in the Square Street bar above the attic there are rattan chair, you can sit to see the ancient city of picture, so moved it lived. Later, they lived in Lijiang, this Inn's 20 / person, the boss is Sichuanese, as early as a year in Lijiang to play, then stayed in that of the. In fact, most of them are operating Lijiang outsiders, while the locals are坐收rent, the living Yau Yau planted planted, envy ing! !
Afternoon, go to the market to buy a watermelon, people here seem to eat very little fruit, nor was there a city used to sell fruit and can only go so far to buy pain: (Shun Bianmai the Naxi ancient music of the votes, then listen to the boss that they are If given a discount ticket !!:((
And then went to the Huangshan park, viewing platform, which can see the ancient city of picture, but not tickets.
19:00 to go early to account for the location of listening to ancient music, because buying is not the kind of grades, but accounting for the location of A and so on than many to be good, making a:)
Naxi ancient music will Xuan Ke is a hero, according to his own words, he is now a world-class celebrities. (It seems I have enough uninformed, and sweat!!), But this is not totally bragging, he brought his clubs tour the United States, Europe, and was employed as more than an internationally renowned university professor, indeed can not be taken lightly, as the of the! ! This makes me think of a once-a sociologist (philosopher !?)-- He Xin, is equally assertive.
Xuan Ke, 74 years old, but in clubs for the elderly, he is the youngest one, as far as he introduced the music will be the average age of 75, an average of 1.5 for the elderly died, hanging above the stage are all clubs once Members of the portrait. On this point, Lost Horizon, the tone of some of the heavy. Yes ah, do not know 10 years later, music will be what it was like it! However, clubs in general the atmosphere is very relaxed, Xuan Ke is Laojiang Hu, and the ancient music would be fun to play by his nickname inserted runs through the meantime, the ancient music itself, hand, seems less important.
Xuan Ke made a pass on the academic attack, saying that a lot of good seed are the so-called professor, Ph.D. advisor to the destroyed, Song Zuying 94, one of them. Pass a direct consequence of this attack is: Every time I listen to the song Song felt she was holding chamber to take notes show off skills, how to listen to how uncomfortable, halo! !
After the Lost Horizon, will help signing pictures, but to buy a book or his designated disc first, otherwise the discussion, it is indeed very NB! !
PS:
Breakfast: 3
Lunch: 15
Dinner: 25
Naxi Ancient Music: 50
Crafts: 30
Live: 20
Sub-total: 143
July 27 Lijiang - Lugu Lake (Rigby peninsula)
6:30 am up to the "Friends of Sharon's Shadow" and other vehicles.
An appointment with the car starting 7:30 until 8:30 before opening, because some people do not abide by, this is my most hated behavior, they also do nothing. The same car a few Cantonese.
4 pm to Lugu Lake, approaching the village fell into the water to stop the observation deck. Nowhere to be seen, as if to Zhoushan Thousand Island Lake, this much I feel a bit discouraged.
To bypass the village fell into the water, we go directly to the Rigby Island, walked into the Tashi home.
Tashi is very handsome, 1.81 tall, angular face, if you are washed away his girls, I believe that will not disappoint you. F4 of the package is said that the manager had asked him to packaging helped popularize him, which he refused.
To lay down their packages, we climbed a small hill next to.
The lake calm, heart calm, is I like the feeling!
1 will be played under the rain, but under the more bigger, and quickly withdrawn.
Back to the yard, sat down at Lang Yanxia waiting for a meal. Standing opposite the sudden say "I've seen where you" hand pointing straight to me! ? Often billed as looking really quite ripe, he said between wondering "in Wuyuan." Yes, is that known as "China's most beautiful rural area" Oh, small world. Although the first time in more than a month, to repeat it a thousand miles, with no agreement, actually meet again, which is destined bar! However, the girl seemed to him ... ..., well, not to mention the wonderful! !
Dinner one, they intend to go with the caravan from Sichuan Inagi directly. Oh, that would be a difficult and romantic journey!
Meal to the next bar, Tashi us down a bit, "咣pan wine." Said this wine is very intense, finish on the drunk, "咣clang" that fell to the ground from the sound, really be so powerful! ? I first tasted a little, but fortunately, the taste is not overbearing names!
Tashi is not only handsome very cheerful, in the Mix's surrounded by eloquent, his current ideal is for the rectification of names Mosuo people. In fact, many people to Lugu Lake is what people take marriage Mosuo washed away, and it is these people provided the fuel for drowning the village of red-light district. In my opinion, these people somewhat BT's adventures, the psychological, but also resulted in many people's misunderstanding of the Mosuo people. The Tashi want to do 94 to eliminate these misconceptions, it seems this is a certain degree of difficulty. Tashi's experience also twists and turns, now he has his own caravan, "Whenever visitors are tired of watching, I'll take caravan out" (Tashi language).
Tashi simple language tells a lot of philosophy of life, although some may not originally come from his mouth, but when you know that these words were not even their names can not write, you will inevitably be surprised. According to our standards if this is an illiterate, and he was able to accept that some of the views and form their own theories. I think that with his unusual experience is inseparable from the bar. Reproduced in one of his original words: "walking marriage!? In fact the world's people are taking marriage, as long as sexual gratification, and no one can go marriage!" Tashi Tashi word of God during the talk, Zhaxi Fu people have been busy guests barbecue. From the door the afternoon, we saw people in Zhaxi Fu busy busy things straight years now, Moso woman's hard work is evident!
Guangdong Yuehua Jian came three MM, came over from another Inn to see Tashi, and Tashi is also reflected in the charm! !
PS:
Lijiang - Lugu Lake: 60
Live: 15
Admission: 40 (students half-price)
Lunch: 8
Dinner: 10
Barbecue: 13
Sub-total: 146
July 28 Rigby - Wing Ning - Rigby - Small drowning - Rigby 8:00 am to help link up other Tashi cars, and many other car for an hour before that this little concept of time people!
There are several girls in the same car to go the racecourse, said Tashi's horse value of more than 20 million.
More than 10 points to Yongning, so the driver to help bring the local Mosuo people at home, by the way to help buy some gifts, a smoke + two bottles of wine + a brick tea actually less than 50.
Although the Mosuo people also belong to the Naxi, but they believe in Tibetan Buddhism, Vulcan statue. Fireplace is their life, leisure center, Huo Tangbian xintaizi is dedicated to the Vulcan, and we bring them directly into the gift table. I think it was the first Vulcan to be the reason for the bar!
Try their butter tea, I still can not be used to: (a small sitting a moment, and we rose to leave. Since the host today, just would like to invite monks to approach things, but we had no time to wait. Back on the road by the way went to the bar the United States Temple, a small .
1:00 Tashi had returned home, ate lunch, small Tashi took us to a small village, fell into the water, where more partial, there is no tourism development, can see the real Mosuo people live.
Climbed over a mountain to the village zani, some of us breathless. Otherwise ask a few villagers came by boat to the small fell into the water to return to Rigby 110 per issue. I quietly asked how the small Tashi this price. He hesitated a moment, said: could it, not that expensive nor cheap. Oh, not much help, cunning cunning!
Zani the village next to a Goddess Peak (or the Goddess Peak?) Above there is a cave, said to be PL. If you can go in the mountains, back and forth about the need 8 hours to see the time we decided not to go.
Finally, or riding on a boat. More and more rain, rain hit the lake, splashing water drops as big as beans, like countless pearls on the lake carnival, Shashi spectacular!
To a small fell into the water, the pants had been wet to the skin.
Into the village, Tashi aunt in a small house will rest, baked in the fire, more warm. We pondered some money did not buy a gift Jiugei it, so I put 50 in the Huo Tangbian the table. Estimate is that I put too many times, accompanied by a few Cantonese whispered to one side for a while. Way back Guangdong People concluded that Tashi is a family-owned economy, to move from his relatives and common prosperity!
Back when the rain a bit, boating up the people to sing their songs, rough mad voice of the Cang-in with a little bit hurt, it is drunk!
Back to Rigby, the rain has been very small, and but we have also been soaked pants. Because it did not bring change and can only be unloaded in the following half of it urges them to dry out, and the remaining half of it urges the hope that early drying temperature.
Wearing half of it urges quick-drying pants, Duoduosuosuo to go to eat, someone else's eyes a bit puzzled. Also, this weather is really no need to wear so cool! ! Drank a few glasses of a row, "咣pan wine" who has some warmth, but the head seems to float some hair, ate hurriedly returned to his room to sleep.
Hazy in the bar downstairs, came a loud sound, Tashi is still in the crowd surrounded the lip service Zhaxi Fu who is also under Shengqingnanque shows her singing voice. Is quite good compared to what that Song should be much better! !
PS:
Breakfast + lunch + dinner: 5 +10 +10
Rigby - Yongning (chartered): 15
Gifts + gift money: 16
By boat: 18
Sub-total: 74
July 29 Lugu Lake - Lijiang the morning, 9:00 Tashi goodbye before leaving with the photo. Hope, etc. He also became a world-class celebrity, they can stick more light With photos!
Tashi Gang car is still connected, this plan directly to Lijiang, but the rain the next few days, for security reasons, we Scopalia japonica maxin transfer bus company in Nanjing Sino-Pakistani, bigger cars are safer bar.
Fell into the water passing through the village sent a postcard, by the way built a commemorative postmark, needs its own hands, 0.2 / pieces.
18:00 more years to the ancient city, in the "Sunflower" I point the pizza afterwards proved to be a mistake. I do not swear in the ancient city from this point of the pizza!
Because it intends to go tiger jumped the next day on foot, eating go to the supermarket to buy some dry food and chocolate, and then go to "BLUE PAGE" consultation with the Tiger Leaping Gorge and Zhongdian situation.
Inn owner not long ago went to the tiger jumped and gave a map of his own paintings and a number of recommendations useful!
PS:
Early + lunch + dinner: 5 +5 +30
Lugu Lake - Ning Scopalia japonica maxin: 20
Ning Scopalia japonica maxin - Lijiang: 26.5
Live: 20
Ration: 20
Sub-total: 126.5
July 30 Lijiang - Bridge-Tina 's (the Gap)
Get up at 6 am, go to the station, according to the recommendations of predecessors, we only back a packet with a bit of water, dry food and rain gear. Fight to the station, in fact, close to the station, from the waterwheel to ask that out of the ancient city, went to walk around, and if called "Town Bay Terminal" bar.
Sat 8:00 car, it will be "high-fast passenger terminal" as a stay, 8:30 time out of the city.
11 cars to the bridge, we get off, and it continues to bound Zhongdian (Shangri-La).
11:10 assigned ticket, tickets 30 / person, students half price.
Box 1000M-off around the mountain, which is being carried out, harm we thought wrong road. Start this section to go very hard, it may not yet adapted to the body's sake. Were there a foreigner from behind to catch up, a trace will be gone.
To the "Naxi Ya Ge" (Naxi family) took 2 hours, originally planned is 1.5 hours. In this break to eat lunch, we continued on our way 14 points. Encountered a number of DX, one of them who are charged with 60 liters big packs, admire the extreme!
After a "Naxi Ya Corner" in relation to the famous 28 Po, and in turn a few corners, we have launched Qichuanruniu. We are counting on has been a few more bends, the back up a groom, he would like to help us pack luggage. One asked, under 28 Shui not know that the halo: (This is a significant blow to our ambitions, but still own her own luggage, climb step by step. (Seems to be what the lyrics Mody!!) Groom does not not slowly, followed closely behind, the pace leisurely Let us jealousy, maybe he thinks that we will sooner or later package to his bar!
To a bend, groom, said 28 Shui began. We are a little pull themselves together and began to conquer this abominable "28 strange"! ! May be the body has adapted, but also may have numb, and 28 Shui is not so hard as the legend. We climb the side and the groom side chat Bu Juezhong halfway through the journey. We are determined to take his backpack, but the groom along the way give us the local situation, attitudes, not because we do not rent horses change, which in other places is almost impossible. So we gave five money (which is pack a packet fee.) He refused to close, and we then said: When is the deposit, a packet will be Buxing Le put to you.
Approaching the Peak, and some of our excitement, fatigue swept away. Delay groom afraid to do business, let him return. Perhaps out of courtesy, groom say that they are heroes pack up, so we are.
15:30 am, we saw the rocks on the "won"! I have a butt to sit on a rock, breathing the first!
Come back to this period of time, and originally planned 2-hour journey we only spent 1.5 hours.
Goes on the road is like walking more, 16:55 into the "Tea Horse Inn."
18:45 to the well-known Half Way, said that there is an equally well-known toilet, but we do not have time to stay, you must arrive before dark Tina's.
Half Way to Tina's should be 1.5 hours away, but we go very hard, physical already overdrawn. The middle two waterfalls, one of which must take off their shoes and waded, the water a considerable ice. The last paragraph of the wet and slippery downhill let us on tenterhooks for fear of accidentally rolling down a hill to go. But finally arrived safely.
20:30, we see Tina's boss a warm face, the sky has been completely dark down.
Rattan chair to sit comfortable, I finished a can of Coke at a stretch.
Table next to him heard voice, "we have met"! ! Oh, come across a few in the Lugu Lake of Hangzhou, a coincidence!
With the boss asked for a half-chicken (15 yuan / jin), today's physical overdraft too much and do not go in tomorrow, Bubu tiger jumped on the trouble!
There are several well-known nearby, the inn, the so-called "Teacher Chang" is also one of them. He said the tiger had jumped a road next to the block, and own another one built a private toll road station, 10 yuan per person. Today, this has been confirmed in the boss, such a person has the gall to "teacher" and claimed that it is corrupted by this title, anger ing! So we decided not to take that path.
Inn has a lot of tourists, a message book, there are more than 10 feet of the bar, continues to grow among the interested can leave your "authentic"! !
Tina's name comes from the boss wife's surname, her name fields, so it was suggested that she name to take Tina's, there are places in Beijing to help visitors drew Inn's proprietary T-shirt, hung in the dining room wall, to sell a lot, and now only such a 1, and that the new boss not do a good job.
Finished a short break, we are taking a bath in order to raise enough rest to go in the tiger jumped physical tomorrow.
Like to thank the Half Way, along the way because of signs that makes them who they are not to get lost on foot, although there is little distance access, but should also be acting in good faith. From the bridge to Tina's should be 27KM, Tina's next tiger jumped 6KM, full 33 km, which is said to caravan measured.
PS:
Early + lunch + dinner: 2 +5 +25
Lijiang - Bridge: 13.5
Tickets: 30
Other: 10
Sub-total: 86
July 31 Japan-China Gap - Great with - Lijiang 8:00 am to pack a good thing, so that the next boss to help find the wizard in the tiger jumped. We originally did not intend to find the wizard, but heard that a row was injured two days ago, had decided to ask, and was later proven that this decision is very wise, there is no fundamental Xia Buqu guide, but also sharply increases the risk coefficient!
We are from the "Woody Inn" next to the start downhill, due to yesterday's physical consumption, under this section is not easy.
More than 10 points down to the valley, the Jinsha River is not wide, ran Pentium trend is soul-stirring roar, and we carefully climbed a huge rock, like the magnificent photographed it came back only to find not its ten thousandth: (
Haba Snow Mountain waterfall would also like to import the Jinsha River and eventually they will become part of the Yangtze River!
Tiger has a small jump in the monument, along with a pavilion, a group of people that look at photos, messages, there is a seal, the inscription "X years X months X Day tiger jump medal," and so on, we can not escape to cover the chapter. It must stay 2 yuan / person tolls, so I do not cover white non-built! !
Rest for a thin strip of sky that we continue to work towards it. Wizard was originally reluctant to take us away thin strip of sky, the excuse that bad weather could not go, it should be for security concerns. In our Soft Grinding hard before agreeing to the past, take a look under the wrapping, if not work on the same route back. Need to stay off thin strip of sky 2 yuan / person tolls, this is also the last time. Tolls is to safeguard people, but I guess they are basically less maintenance, and in fact very difficult to defend.
Wizard to see if traffic is also OK, so admonished that we must follow the footsteps of his walk, then walking to the front, followed by a "maintenance engineer" after fracturing. In fact, if really no one save out of any accident, such a battle at most only give you a psychological protection, of course, this is also very important.
Thin strip of sky is indeed very dangerous, it is no wonder that the wizard has many concerns. This road is the road could not be called in some places is simply the natural slope of the rocks, only fast after, otherwise we may, together with the rocks rolled into the river, or being above the falling rock smashed into river. The whole journey with little protection of the five-category system to evaluate the case, the risk coefficient while for the five stars, or even higher. Timid or have fear of heights was suggested at the entrance turn back, or they will not be in the advance and retreat of the situation!
It is called "thin strip of sky" because in one paragraph, if you look up the words, the sky can only see one line. Which paragraph, I do not know, the whole process has a rest, I dared not leave the eyes on the road. Or small life important thing, whether it is the first line or two line on the road! !
After a thin strip of sky, road is like walking more, but in the final to the "spring Inn" five minutes before the uphill rather painful, feeling like a climb of 50 minutes.
To the spring is already more than 12 points, and large with the latest car to Lijiang is 1 point. So next to a tractor 10 to the money, so that sent ferry, it would be package "car" of the bar!
12:30 to the next ferry, we must be down to the ferry from their own.
This vertical height difference of not less than 400 meters downhill, according to the general 1:6 basis, the whole process should be about 2.5 km. Is completely narrow winding path, but the road multi-pumice, believe it will be slippery road on one side of the Jinsha River. Good luck, just throw fell over, is not good ... ...! ! If it is not recommended rashly go on rainy days, unless there is sufficient time. Risk factor of four and a half stars! !
A stranger to help guide the way we are referring to, but people tell us that the ferry is gone, let us hasten to cry. We have also seen across the river there is a pedestrian going up, so screeching voice shouted. The opposite of people paused, waved at us, but also to continue to move forward. Do they think we are just out of courtesy to them say hello! ! ? Halo: (
Finally, those behind the pedestrians began to back away a few, and then thanked the wizard, all the way down the mountain to catch up. Wizard also promised to help us call to the driver wait for us, a good wizard, a pity that no time asked his name!
1 point to the ferry. Ferry! ! ? I am not quite believe my eyes, crossing the so-called inclination of 70 degrees only in the rock walls opened less than a foot of the stone of a deep. Can escorted Cliff leaning in that, while at the foot of the river is turbulent, and innocent people may think that we put in that POSE pretending to be cool! Guess I will not see again in this life so "cool" Ferry has!
Rely on the ferry slowly came on board there are three people, at the helm of the family name is Xu hands wearing a beaded son, very boss demeanor, speaking tone of voice can not be objections. Stern and shipping stations in one person, one Nagatake hand from time to time pick something in the water, a bit like a high-wire those actions. Want to come because they are afraid something wrapped around the propeller.
When we on the boat, so that points on both sides to sit down at the helm Xu, starting ships, five or six minutes to the other side, this side should be better, a little bit, "Ferry" in the shadow! Ferry fee 12 / person. While crossing the river is just 5,6 minutes, I still feel very much value. To open up such a mountain road, and river rock walls out as a "ferry" to the project difficult to be taken lightly, or even fear for their lives!
On the shore, we sat on the ground before drinking a can of Red Bull, just Nazhenjiben almost exhausted what little of our physical fitness. Just down due to the rush, we did not feel, and now back to see, can not help but fearful. A half-hour walk of 2.5 km, which is basically walking pace of flat road!
Leg began to tremble, thighs begin to harden. Although it is known a car waiting, we do not care as much, and most live in large a come back tomorrow night, and by the way is also what can go Maoniuping do!
2 points, and finally to a stop ping, back, and just the other side about the same height, I really TNND toss person: (
Car actually still there, I will be paralyzed in the Yi Shangju seat.
5:30 back to the inn, half-way passing Maoniuping, but we have no idea of!
At night, "Mom, pay more" next to the hotel is very FB to eat meal.
PS:
Wizard + tolls: 20 +4
Ferry: 12
Great with - Lijiang: 33.5
Dinner: 35
Live: 20
Other: 10
Sub-total: 135
August 1st Beam River today only planning to go to beam River, casually make some preparations to go to Zhongdian. To the beam is on to the tiger he had jumped before, but taking into account the jump to the tiger would be more tired, and he changed up to now, really brilliant! !
Morning, rented a bike to the Youth Hostel, 12 / units, days, with the attendant asked for a road map for the river to the beam, an hour or so could be that the road to Zhongdian Shunbian Mai the next day of the vote.
Beam Lijiang River is a small town in the outskirts of the development of Lijiang less than buying a lot of things will be cheaper. Several dye unique. One village had a large marijuana seeds to me, he brought as snacks to eat. I tasted, nothing special feeling. Then, I found this village to the mouth from time to time lose a large marijuana seeds, you may eat a lot of bar will be addicted!
Beam River feels a lot quieter than in Lijiang, but I believe this will be the same soon after the excitement of the bar!
Come back again in the ancient city of browsing, bought some craft sent to a friend, and then bought dry food. Zhongdian is said that more material is relatively scarce, they bought some more chocolate, beef, what of the high-energy foods.
The evening went to "BLUE PAGE" asked the collapse of some rain. The information they gave turned out to be exaggerated, because they "said the tiger jumped the road and the rain collapsed the fundamental can not be compared," and we went to the rain collapse confirmed that: With regard to the degree of risk, the rain can not collapse the way and the Tiger jump ratio, the difficulty of collapsing the rain is that it is an elevation of more than the tiger's high jump. I think they should not think that I am talking about is the road traffic tiger jumped bar! ! ? However, they give recommendations on the tiger jumped good about the.
PS:
Early + lunch + dinner: 5 +13 +30
Lijiang - Zhongdian: 30
Car: 12
Crafts: 50
Ration: 50
Live: 20
Sub-total: 210
Half Conclusion:
Dali stay a day is enough if we are to Meri Cangshan Yulong, or can not go; Erhai to go can not go, do not personally believe that too much meaning; went to shoot the reflection of three towers is best early morning or evening, midday sun is too strong; Butterfly Spring Village has no butterflies in no need to go; Dali Bai near a relatively concentrated residential areas called "Hei Bai Island residential buildings," the construction of interest to go, I did not go to the specific situation is not known.
7-8 months of Lijiang are too many people want to feel the old way is best to go in the off-season, such as in late October;
Beam River is not known in the local beam river, called Longquan Village, there is no total car directly to said you can take to the white sands of the car ride to the general car rental, an hour or so available;
Lugu Lake are recommended in many stay for a few days, how would you feel her true face of Rigby Island, more business climate is relatively short, reception conditions are good, there are a lot of Inn for your choice; 7-8 months, or to bring pieces of thick-point clothes.
Go horse riding games he could find Tashi, 50 / person, the time limitation, there are special coaching. 've Been listening to a talk about the MM: Riding you do not want to ride! !
Near Kozani, small villages fell into the water and so much more quiet, time to go. From the village to go Goddess Peak zani's cave, round about 8 hours. Said charges will be developed soon, those who want to go fast! !
Lugu Lake to Yongning 40-minute drive, can go to bar the United States, as well as hot springs temple.
Tiger Leaping Gorge Bridge proposal from walking on foot could be dispensed with 80 of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain into the mountains fees, if also planned to go to Jade Dragon so harmless.
Walking the proposed light pack, with some water, chocolate, biscuits, as well as rain gear, washing away the supplies can be, when you tired of one kilogram to you in terms of its true weight is definitely not! Inn every 2,3 hours, there will be there, so food is not a problem, the price is not expensive.
If you're going way along the road for two days, then the first day to be rushed to the Gap, and the next day to get up early to catch up with the 13:00 back to Lijiang, the car, they could in the next tiger jumped or large a spend the night. If such a suggestion stay there tiger jumping, large accommodation with even more badly. When the tiger jumped into the next event relatively late, and you can find in the vicinity of the wizard to help the driver to call the opposite side waiting for you, we are so; three days if it is a lot easier then the way along the road, may be appropriate to adjust the itinerary.
桥头到中峡一段完全可以不请向导,沿Half Way红色箭头走就可以了(过了Half Way就逆箭头)。下中虎跳及走一线天必须请向导,这是对自己的生命负责! !下雨的话建议不要走一线天。
如果想去牦牛坪可以让司机帮买门票,否则可能会让你补交80的进山费,切记!
在大具也可转车去白水台,具体情况不详。
有一双合脚的鞋很重要,如果是新鞋,那么建议去前要穿一段时间,让脚适应。当地向导穿的都是解放鞋! !
最后,阻拦你徒步虎跳更多的并不是体力,而是意志!
8月2日丽江——中甸(香格里拉)
早上六点起来,辞别了老板,赶最早一班去中甸的车。走在街上,无意间抬头发现玉龙雪山露出了她的全貌。临行前能看到她,不免暗自庆幸。在雨季看到她的全貌是比较难得的,不过山顶好象没什么雪了。
下午2点半到中甸,我们又到了藏区!
下了车,本想找“旅行者驿站”,不想转了一圈后到了青年旅馆(好象刚刚改名为“旅行者俱乐部”)。也好吧,我是一直想住青年旅馆的,攀谈之下得知这家的老板也是杭州人,又见到老乡了! !
放下东西,我们走上街头闲逛,今天已经没有车去德钦了,于是买了第二天的。
中甸是迪庆地区政府的所在地,现在已经更名为香格里拉,不过很多场合两者是混称的。中甸很新,应该刚建不久,感觉很清爽。城镇不大,一个小时就能逛遍了,我们一开始找的“旅行者驿站”其实在车站不远处,我们却绕过了!
在一家超市买了够吃3天的方便面,因为“BULE PAGE”的人说雨崩那的东西我们会吃不惯。 NND,这些方便面我后来一直背回了上海,现在还在旁边躺着呢! !我又得发誓了:以后再不相信“BLUE PAGE”的话了,“RED PAGE”的也不信! !
晚上在旅馆酒吧再次问了关于雨崩的情况。和老板寒暄中发现我们居然是校友,只不过他在我进校前就离开了,而我报的几个人名他都知道! !呵呵,世界更小了!
老板笔名“豌豆”,真名不详,必须有音乐才能工作,不抽烟,只抽雪茄。呵呵,酷的!他显然对这一带比较熟悉,给的信息也准确的多,不象……!想起来就恼火豌豆给了我们很多建议,也给了一些联系电话,对我们的行程帮助良多!
中甸附近有些景点,纳帕海、松赞林寺等,其他的要远些。松赞林寺有小布达拉之称,不过既然去过布达拉,小的就算了;纳帕海也不怎样,不去也罢。
PS:
午+晚饭:5+12.5
中甸——德钦:31.5
干粮:15
住:25
小计:89
8月3日中甸—德钦—飞来寺一早起来坐上班车,下午3点到德钦(升平镇),中途在奔子栏停车吃饭。
升平镇是一个建在山坳里的城镇,我们没作停留,在车站寄了一个包,跟几个人直接包车到飞来寺,按豌豆的推荐住“摄影之家”,不过旁边那家似乎也不错。
在这里又碰到了虎跳的那几位杭州人,呵呵!
客栈正对的94梅里了,在这可以看到梅里的四座主要山峰:神女峰、将军峰、卡格博(梅里主峰)以及无头峰,可谓风景这边独好!
天气不错,不经意间梅里褪去了包裹着的面纱,显出了她的真容。我们祈祷了多日的时分就这么到来,让我们措不及防!几乎所有的人都举起了相机,有人激动到高声欢呼。而我则连调错了相机的测光模式也不自觉,以至洗出来才发现大都过曝,心痛ing:(
谋杀了一卷胶卷后,我们转去飞来寺。很小的一个寺,建于一片金黄的青稞田中。见我们进去,一位喇嘛帮我们点上酥油灯,然后颂了一段经文,我们则奉上香火钱,2元/人。
转完经桶,看到旁边一间房子中坐了几个女喇嘛,手中编织着什么。想拍照,其中的一个微微摆了摆手,于是放下相机。
回到客栈,梅里已经重又披回了她的面纱。不管怎样,我们是幸运的。有位驴友说他朋友6月份在这等了一个礼拜也没能看到梅里的真貌!
PS:
早+午+晚饭:2.5+15+6
德钦—飞来寺:3.5
住:20
香火:2
小计:49
8月4日飞来寺—西当温泉—下雨崩村早上7点不到起来,希望看到“日照金山”,然而云层很厚,虽然可以看到一点金色的山峰,云却遮盖了整个山顶,可恶:(
吃了早饭,到公路上拦德钦到西当的车。中途换到对面开来的车,司机解释说那边的司机更熟悉那的路况,也是吧!
公路很窄,调头时着实让我们捏了一把汗,旁边94澜沧江,下去估计什么也找不到了。
今年是羊年,正好是梅里主峰卡格博的本命年,所以来转梅里的人特别多。车上除了我们之外,都是去转山的藏民,其中三个是昨天同车到德钦的。他们三人也是我们注目的焦点,因为一直搞不清他们的身份。年长的男子应该是身份比较高的,穿了黄色的藏袍,有事总吩咐年轻女子去办;年轻女子讲一个流利的汉语,当然还有藏语;最奇怪的是年轻男子,会藏语不会汉语,而跟我们交流竟然用英语! !我们问他是不西藏的?他说不是;外国人?也不是。糊涂了! !
后来知道年轻夫妇是拉萨人,不过已在瑞士定居多年,丈夫会英语、法语,但不会汉语。今年回拉萨探亲,顺便陪岳父来转山。有点复杂! !
11点多司机直接把车开到了澜沧江边的一个小村庄,司机说这是转山必去之地。于是我们也随他们一同下到江边的这个小寺。比飞来寺还小,不过披挂了很多经幡,旁边沿江插了一排红色的大经幡。后来才知道转山必须从那过去,当时我们没找着路,而那些藏民们则忙着挂经幡或是敬香,于是我们逆时针转了一圈后随两个人原路回到车上。后来我们一直在奇怪那两个藏民怎么没从江边走呢! ?
12点多终于等齐了所有人开往西当。途中买了门票,60/人,学生半票,藏民免票。
1点到西当温泉。要到温泉,必须在西当补票5元/人。
下了车,到温泉客栈,报上豌豆的大名,老板果然知道。在老板的建议下,同时听取了刚出来的一班驴友的意见,我们决定把随身物品精简到最低程度,只带牛肉干、巧克力、压缩饼干,一套洗刷用具和雨具,必备药品及驱虫水,一个水壶。这些东西刚好塞满小包,照相机什么的随身带。其他物品及那堆可恶的方便面一概寄存在老板那。这次真是轻装上阵了!
1点半,我们出发。不久赶上了先我们走的德钦一家,刚才也是同车进来的。他们邀我们一同走,不过由于他们带了小孩,所以不久我们只能先行了。一路上碰到的都是转山的藏民,来的或是回的。很友好,总会问候一声“你好”,或是“慢慢走”。很纯净的感觉,我喜欢:)
如前所说,雨崩的路并不算难走,它的难度在于海拔高度。西当温泉是1800M,而垭口是3800M,雨崩村是3200M,要到雨崩必须翻过垭口,也94是说要垂直爬高2000M。而且由于基础高度是1800M,这多少算是一个高原的高度了,所以有些人会在这过程中会出现高原反映,而这的很多红景天广告94为此作而做的。 (希望你不会被这一串数字搞晕!)
不过这些没困扰我们,事实上我们去虎跳徒步94想了解自己的体能,为这次行程作的一个热身。
下午5点,我们到了垭口。之前我们问了N次“到垭口还要多久?”,得到的答案却是五花八门,更有甚者在同一个地方一个说:快了,还有半个多小时吧。另一个却说:早呢,两个小时差不多。晕,相差也太过悬殊了吧! ! : (
现在我们终于站在了垭口,按豌豆的说法:我们可以享受一下“征服3800M垭口的快感”了!呵呵,可我怎么只是觉得腿酸,而没有那个什么……呢! !
过了垭口的景色跟前边完全不同,前边你只有赶路,因为没什么给你看的,除了对面光秃秃的山。而在这边,你抬头就可以看到神女峰、将军峰,离你那么近,好象伸手都可以触摸到。
我们走走拍拍,到上雨崩村已经是晚上7点了,不过天还没黑,而且都是下坡,不象前面那么累了。由于下雨崩离神瀑比较近所以,我们赶去下雨崩。村口有人告诉我们:今天应该到某某家住宿!
很多驴友说雨崩提前进入共产主义了,这是有些依据的!他们这的住宿接待是实行轮流制的,所以就有了刚才那个人的这句话。不过这也不是绝对的,如果你要去别家也可以,但住宿费的一半必须交给今天轮到的那家,住宿费是统一的20/人。据说这是因为当初这没有客栈,后来有几家脑筋活络的开客栈接待转山的藏民以及游客,富了起来。别的人看不过,于是由村长出头实行这种轮流制。不过当中还有还有这么一条:这20元中有5元是要交给村长的,而且是落入个人口袋! !看来“共产主义”有些名不副实,这个村长之职端的是肥缺,看看那几家客满的客栈就知道了! ! (我只是瞎掰,希望不会惹出什么民族纠纷才好!!)
我们到了今天轮值的这家,有些不堪入目,称之地牢也不为过,于是执意换别家。 “神瀑客栈”是这条件最好的,很好找,在最里边白塔边,不过已经客满了,于是改住“世外桃源藏家客栈”。
天已经完全暗下来了,空中升起一轮弯月,远处是神女雪峰,四周万籁俱寂,当真是世外桃源了!
没带三脚架,遗憾ingL
晚饭后,看到平台上围了一堆人,领头的滔滔不绝地讲着什么,依稀中听到了“宇宙起源”什么的。讲完后,一伙人围了一个坑烧什么纸,估计是经文,嘴里还念念有词,我总感觉鬼鬼祟祟的。问老板,他也怀疑是法轮功之类的邪教,说:他最痛恨搞这些玩意了!
PS:
飞来寺——温泉:18
门票:63
早+晚饭:4+8
住:20
其他:10
小计:123
8月5日神瀑早上7点起来,依然没有“日照金山”,老板说10月以后才比较容易看到。
吃了早饭,出发去神瀑。遇到昨天的德钦那一家,还有从西藏左贡过来的小学校长一行三人,于是一起走。
走出不远,在河边的一个山峰前,他们停下来挂经幡,说是这个山峰上有一位神。挂完经幡,他们开始顶礼膜拜,也就是五体投地式的磕头,而后用石头或是树枝搭起一个个小房子,虔诚之情溢于言表!在他们的提示下,我们也搭了两座小房子。河滩上已经布满了密密麻麻的“房子”!
一路停停走走,不时他们会挂经幡或是别的什么物品。 11点到了神瀑,之前路过一间小寺,是供奉莲花生大师的,也就是桑耶寺的缔造者。
神瀑从很高的悬崖上飞溅下来,是神女峰的雪水形成的。旁边还有几个小瀑布,最小的这个才是“神瀑”。据说它很神奇,好人从下面走过会有很多水落到身上而不良之人则滴水不沾,而如果水小的话,在下面念经它就会变大。传说穿过水帘时如果能看到彩虹,将会带来好运,看到越多好运也越多!
同行的人们膜拜完后开始穿越水帘,按规矩是绕水帘下的石头三圈。水很大,他们个个湿透了。出来后鼓励我们也去,于是套上雨衣,不过不能带帽子。 (在所有供奉点都是不能戴帽子的,也不能抽烟,最好尊重他们的习俗)我冲进雨帘,水挺大,证明我不是“坏人”! !然后……然后我看到前面有一个圆形的彩虹,而且一直在我前面,我走一步,它指引一步。每一圈都是这样。这,太神奇了!我有点诧异,从来没有和彩虹有过如此的亲密接触,我怀疑我是在做梦!
在这里碰到了从拉萨过来的一家三口,老人昨天是骑马进雨崩的,因为他的腿脚不方便。而今天他执意要自己走的这里,于是一直拄着拐杖到了这。宗教在这位老人的身上再次显现了它神奇的魅力!
神瀑一边的石壁上贴满了纸币,于是我们也东施效颦了一番,还尝了神水,很凉,比农夫山泉甜多了! !之前我们怕不适应闹肚子,只喝自带的开水,此后我们就改喝山泉了。
拉萨来的那家人没带容器,而他们又想带些神水回去,于是把军用水壶借给了他们。不过这一借,回去的路上比较惨,渴:(
回之前帮同行的人们照了相,留下地址,答应洗出来给寄去,我想现在他们应该收到了吧!
因为要赶回温泉,所以他们先走了,而我们则晃晃悠悠往回走,当然也是为了等我们的水壶。
4点多回到村里,取回了水壶,我们收好东西打算换到“徒步者之家”客栈。其实昨天我们进村时就决定要住这家客栈了,因为要去神瀑昨天才住下雨崩的。这家客栈在上、下雨崩之间,我们称之为“中雨崩”,中雨崩唯一的一幢建筑就是徒步者之家了,而且没有完工,底楼堆满了木屑,只有上层可以住,当然我们本来就想住高些的。之所以要住这,是因为这可以同时看到神女峰和将军峰,而下雨崩你只能看到神女峰,上雨崩的则是将军峰。
客栈老板是阿南主,攀谈中可以感觉到他是头脑很活络的一个,估计也是先富起来的一个!交谈中得知他建这家客栈只花了3万块钱,地不要钱,他自己开出来的。 3万块钱就能有一幢别墅,而且能享受如此美景,羡慕inging!
安顿好后,让老板帮作了饭一起吃。老板热情地拿青稞酒让我们尝尝,而我们则拿出千里迢迢背来的午餐肉还有榨菜。老板没怎么吃午餐肉,倒是对榨菜颇感兴趣,大赞味道不错,让我们大跌眼界! !于是拿了一包送他。
吃完饭,我们在附近逛了一圈,然后坐在平台上看太阳西沉。
阿南主在上雨崩的家里有舞厅,晚上会可以蹦的。在这还有蹦的! ! ?这多少让我们有些意外,阿南主再次显示了他的商业头脑。于是天黑后帮造房子的工人们都跑去蹦的了!
旁边住进了一家藏民,或许因为转完神瀑太过兴奋睡不着,他们也来平台坐,而后得知他们来自西藏昌都地区,昨天赶夜路到12点多,今天不打算赶了。事实上有很多藏民都是连夜赶路的走的,我们是绝不敢的,倒不是怕被打劫而是路不好走。
他们解说了梅里转山:转梅里分外转和内转。外转是绕梅里山脉走一圈,路途十分艰险,要十多天才能走完;内转则是先去德钦的一个什么地方(没记住),那是进门;然后到飞来寺;再到澜沧江边的村子,那有锁和钥匙;过后就是神瀑;最后去明永冰川。因为我们是打算回去时看明永冰川的,于是我们无意当中居然完成了内转的大部分行程,而惟独没有进门! ! : (
他们中的一个女孩在林业局工作,期间无意中说起滇金丝猴,她说其实滇金丝猴起源地在昌都地区,所以这个名称是不正确的,而她们单位正努力去申报改为藏金丝猴。
因为要早起,他们不久就回房睡了,而我们却毫无倦意。
无意中我看到了流星,而当我第二次看到时居然是在我……呵呵,算了,不提了罢。总之可以算是空前绝后的一次观流星记了。
PS:
早+晚饭:3+10
住:20
其他:10
小计:43
8月6日笑农大本营、冰湖早上起来到老板家吃了早饭,老板让他妻子带我们去笑农大本营和冰湖。
老板娘比老板小11岁,身材娇小,有些拘谨,不过熟了之后也蛮开朗的。她背了一个竹篓,说是顺便采些菌子(蘑菇)。人虽然长的小却同样的健步如飞,还不时问要不帮背东西,我们谢绝了她的好意,不过开始怀疑是不这的人都是飞毛腿! ?
山上菌子很多,各种各样的,有些很大象一把小伞,而老板娘只对一种小小的、金黄色杆的菌子感兴趣,其他的则一概不理。细问之下知道那就是松茸,小日本很喜欢的那种,据说可以防癌。于是我东张西望,费尽眼神帮她寻找,倒真发现不少。当然我如此买力是有目的的:我们好乘她采菌子的间隙休息一会! !后来在一家饭店听老板说新鲜的松茸卖300多一斤,而干货则卖1000/斤以上。亏了,早知如此我就……! ! :(呵呵
11点到了笑农大本营,这现在是一个农场,已经完全没有登山大本营的影子了。在一老人家里休息了一会之后,我们继续向冰湖进发。
去冰湖的路不太好走,很多灌木,而且很多灌木上有刺:(
翻过一座小山,12点到了冰湖。
说实话刚见到冰湖我大为失望,这是怎样一个湖呢! !最多也就半个足球场那么大,充其量只能称之为“冰塘“吧!水倒是很清,水面上没有冰,只是靠山崖的一边有一些浮冰。因为山崖上面就是冰川,不时有雪落下,形成小雪瀑,那些浮冰应该就来源于此。然而接下来发生的情况却出乎所有人的意料!
我们站在冰湖一边拍照,我们相邻的左右两边是巨大的冰块形成的斜坡。不过常年的风沙已经让它们完全丧失了原有的晶莹剔透,变成了黑色。对面则是山崖,山崖上有几个雪瀑,但很小。我拿出相机,调慢快门,希望拍下雪瀑的动态。这时,山崖高处的冰川开始松动,落下的雪块也渐渐增多。终于,一块巨大的积雪脱离冰川轰然滑下。积雪坠入湖中,掀起悍然巨波,一阵凉风夹杂着水雾迎面而来。没时间思考,我拔腿在乱石堆上左蹦右跳。事后证明其实我完全没有必要那么做,因为我站在湖堤上,雪和水都到不了我这,然而当时心头油然而生的恐惧根本就没给我思考的机会!
几分钟后,当惊魂未定的我们再看湖面时,有些瞠目结舌。冰雪占据了整个湖面,挤出的湖水形成咆哮的急流从一边冲出,原来平缓的河堤被冲成了陡坡。湖面上堆起的冰雪足有2、3层楼高,名副其实地冰湖就这么出现了!
“一切都象是电影,比电影还要真实”,记得老狼有这么一句歌词,用以表达我当时的心情会比较合适!
老板娘跟农场的一个小男孩刚才一到就下到湖边去玩水,一路狂奔才没有出事,真正是拣了一条命回来。也幸好他们是走惯山路的,换成是我们,估计就……! !或许是受了太多惊吓,老板娘坐在石头上笑得不能自己,我们过去拍拍她肩,问有没事,还好,没事。
雪崩过后,一切又回复平静,四周一片死寂。我们不敢贸然下去,又不甘心就此离去,于是在堤上呆坐。
小男孩是最勇敢的一个,所谓“初生牛犊不怕虎”吧,一会就忍不住,下去捡冰块。于是我也下去捡了两块上来,冰镇带来的红牛。
我们还不想离去,于是叫他们先会农场休息,我们一会就回。等他们走后,我们开始小心翼翼地下到湖边,神经高度紧张,一有风吹草动就想拔腿回跑,汗! !还好,没发生什么。两个人在巨冰前拍了照留念,毕竟雪崩是不容易看到的,而看到的又有几个能安然无恙呢! !
其间也揭开了我们的一个疑问,因为先前我们看到冰川表面是白色的而断面却泛着绿光,一直不明白是什么原因。现在我们知道了那泛绿光的是冰块。
拍完照,我们原路返回,刚才还是澄清的小河已经变成浊黄的激流了。
回到农场,老板娘在一年轻人家里休息,我们也进去坐。藏民都很好客,年轻人做了酥油茶,这该是地道的酥油茶了,还放了奶渣在里面,我就更不习惯了,依然由MINI牛代劳,当然,她求之不得了! !
可能于外界接触很少,年轻人对我抽的烟很感兴趣,这是我在丽江买的,于是临走前我悄悄把它留在了一边!
由于来的路上有一座桥被冲走了,所以老板娘带我们走另一条路回。到村口,远远的就看见老板在桥那边焦急的等待,而桥面上满是泥浆,看来也受到了冲击。还好这座比较结实,而且离水面高,否则我们得从下雨崩绕道了。
老板紧张的心理从他脸上一览无余,他说中午看到河水就知道上面出事了。当年登山队出事的时候也是出现这样征状,当然那次更严重,而平时是绝少发生这种情况的。有些村民们于是猜测我们几个人可能“没有”了。由于手机在这没有信号,他无法联系到我们,只好一路小跑过来,幸好大家都没事! !最后加了一句“以后一千块钱我也不让老婆带路了!”,可见他对妻子的爱护。
而我们则在想:我们之所以能看到雪崩且平安回来是否是因为昨天转神瀑并看到彩虹的缘故呢! !
见到我们平安回来,老板也安心下来,叫我们先在他家坐会,去旁边家洗个澡,吃完饭再回去。洗澡本来是10/人的,老板说是他朋友,所以只要5/人。
因为没有奢望能在这洗澡,所以我们没有带任何洗涤用品,而村里居然连肥皂也没有卖,于是只是冲了一下就出来了。而且水温很低,因为这的水都是冰的山泉水,太阳能只是使其变为冷水,不冰而已! !
洗完澡回来却碰到了一件极为不爽的事情。一伙广东人也想住中雨崩那,但人比较多,于是要我们把房间让出来。虽然早上我们已经打过招呼了,不知道为什么伙计却还是把他们带上去了。或许出于经济上的考虑,老板也希望我们能改住他在上雨崩的客栈,并承诺昨天的房钱免收。然而,于我们而言,房钱不是问题,我们只在乎风景以及一个愉快的心境。在作了交涉之后,我们决定放弃。虽然我们也可以坚持,然而在知道了他们是广东的之后我们还是决定放弃。我并不是故意要排斥广东人,然而事实是:如果在一个地方出现两个以上的广东人,那么哪怕这个地方本来再怎么清净也会变得如菜市场般嘈杂。当然,我说的是普遍情况,也有些广东人并不是这样,所以无此劣习者请勿对号入座,切记,切记! !
付了房钱及其他费用,收拾好东西,带了些许怒气,我们转住上雨崩阿忠老师家。 “君子不掠人之美”,所以他们都不是君子,呵呵,只有这样安慰自己了吧!不过这样一来倒是圆了我们本来的另一个想法,即在上、中、下雨崩各住一晚!
这家是下雨崩“世外桃源藏家客栈”老板当时推荐我们住的,而我们刚才洗澡也是在这,他们是全村唯一一家有浴室有厕所的客栈。他们的客栈也在改建,没别的房客,我们就挑了一间转角处的。这也不错,走廊前是一片开阔的青稞地,再远处就是将军峰了!
离吃饭还有一段时间,于是我们到村里闲逛、拍照,明天就要离开,心里不禁滋生出一丝黯然。
阿忠老师在西当的一个小学任教,吃饭间他告诉我们:在全世界范围中有四座神山,梅里排在第四,排在第三的94珠峰了,所以很多人称之第三女神,另外两座在国外,不详;梅里的主峰卡格博是一位太子,而神女峰则是他的妻子;虽然排名老幺,然而他的权利是最大的,所以去转其他神山是不可以行叩头礼的,否则死后会受到惩罚,而转梅里则是可以叩头的。一顿饭时间让我们长了很多见识,看来以后得多吃饭的! !
回到房间,时间还早,于是坐到廊檐下,享受在雨崩的最后一晚!
PS:
早+晚饭:3+10
向导:20
洗澡:5
住:20
其他:10
小计:68
8月7日雨崩—明永—德钦吃过早饭,8点我们道别阿忠老师,开始返程。
出去的路要轻松很多,我们却走的很慢,或许是有太多的不舍吧。在我到过的地方当中,雨崩是我最喜欢的一个村庄,我的喜欢源于它的静谧和绝色风景,人与自然完美地结合到了一起。据说过两年这要通公路,于是暗自庆幸,同时又有些哀伤:世间又将少一片香格里拉了。呵呵,不知道这样说是否合适!
路上来来往往的依然是和善的藏民,还有一些喇嘛。在一处阴凉处我们碰到了四个从四川过来的女喇嘛,她们生起了篝火吃饭喝奶茶,还邀请我们。我于是在一边乘机拍了几张,其中一张是所有照片中自己最满意的!
12点多到达温泉,吃了午饭,这的面要好吃多了。
因为有事要提前赶回,我们改变计划,打算租车去明永然后直接到德钦。可能以前没有人这样包车,所以司机开价也不高,180,我们还到150成交。这个价格应该是比较低的,因为一般包车到明永就要100。
取回包,谢过老板(寄包免费),我们上车,1点半到冰川下面。
明永冰川是纬度最低、海拔最低的冰川。时间关系我们骑马上山,价格不算贵,来回是83/人。
这里所谓的马其实都是骡子,但看起来跟马没什么区别,也很干净。马夫告诉我们马和骡子的区别在耳朵,骡子的比较大,马的则较小。
我的“马”很高,足有1.60M高,而且不太听话。中途休息完后,我骑上去它很不高兴,乘马夫不注意向下狂奔了十来米,惊出一身冷汗,这次是真的“汗”了! !马夫于是也不敢松开缰绳了。
到山顶后还必须自己走一段才能到冰川。据说以前是可以下到冰川边,甚至踩到冰川上的,低处那一片黑色冰川94被踩黑的。现在已经不允许了,在冰川上面凌空建了阶梯,所以:“可远看而不可亵渎焉”! !
其实让我去踩我还不一定敢!冰面并不平整,在风沙雨水的侵蚀下,冰面上出现一道道裂缝,远看很小却足可以吞没一头壮牛。既然我自以为没有牛来的壮,想必也是不敢“以身试缝”的了! !而冰川的上部则林立了很多高高低低的冰笋,象是狼牙棒的展开面。
我们爬到最高处拍了照往回走,猛然间身后传来类似打雷的崩裂声,“雪崩!”我脑海里闪出两个字眼,因为昨天我们听到的也是这样的。回头看去果然是雪崩,不过这次很小,没等我取出相机就基本结束了。另外提醒一句:随身东西一定要放好,掉下的话估计没什么机会捡回了。因为台阶是镂空的,下面94冰川,大概有几十米的距离。有恐高症者走这段路估计也会比较困难!
回到骑马处,问了马夫,知道现在天比较热,雪崩经常会发生,不过都很小。联系两天都看到雪崩,这不免让我们有点忐忑!
5点到停车场,我们的车却不在,打电话司机说在修车,但背景中传来的声音让我们断定他是撒谎。所以建议包车时一定要讲清楚以免引起不快。
等了差不多一个小时,车终于来了,车里满是灰尘,估计装过什么货物。我们也懒得计较,上车出发。孰料开出不过数里车子连续两次抛锚,由此和司机发生激烈的冲突。
冲突归冲突,最后大家各让一步,终于在天黑前赶到了德钦。去车站取了包,寄存费2元/件,不计天数,够便宜的了!
很多天没洗澡了,于是决定FB一次,住“阿墩子”酒店,两星级,150/三人间。这个价格比我预料的要高的多,因为今年转山的人多所以生意比较好。对面的彩虹酒店比这多颗星,当然价格也多不少,想想算了,省点是点了。
PS:
早+午+晚饭:3+5+20
包车:75
骑马:83
住:75
其他:10
小计:271
这一天之后我没有作记录,凭记忆写一些吧!
8月8日德钦——中甸早上起来买了9点到中甸的票,回房间整理好东西,准时上车,却没有准时发车。晚点半个多小时司机才发动汽车,到了站外又开始上客上货,这也是整个旅行过程中我们唯一碰到的一趟晚点发车并超载的班车。出镇之后,可能为了赶时间,一路狂飚。不少人开始晕车,前面的男子吐了一路,可爱的人儿啊!更可怕的是司机一边狂飚还一边打电话,着实让我捏了一把汗。乘停车加水的空挡,我们以“很多人晕车”为由让司机减慢速度,接下来就好些了。
我也有些不太舒服,车窗都关着,车里不停有人抽烟以及汽油的味道使得空气浑浊不堪。终于捱到了奔子栏,停车吃饭。我们没什么胃口,乘机呼吸新鲜空气,好多了!
3点半到中甸,下车直接到了“旅行者驿站”,这次是轻车熟路了。这的条件比青年旅馆要好,也便宜些。
关于回昆明的费用可以做一个大致的计算:
回中甸费用在70左右。
中甸回昆明的费用在200左右,可以坐卧铺直接回昆明,大概18小时左右吧。也可以分段坐车,看个人需要,直接回费用应该要省些。
以上到8月7日止,总费用为:2445.5元,如果加上回昆明的费用应该是2750左右到昆明。我的费用清单只是给大家一个参考,各人随自己的情况增减!
半程小结:
中甸(海拔3300)附近可去松赞林寺,有公车直接到;纳帕海并不是湖而是草原,没有公车,打的似乎是20左右;碧塔海(海拔3540)距离中甸25公里可包车去;再远还有茨中教堂等。
住宿:推荐旅行者驿站及旅行者俱乐部。旅行者驿站离车站近,条件不错;旅行者俱乐部的老板则能给你很多不错的建议。
从德钦到飞来寺可包面的,20/车,单程。
飞来寺去西当或是明永冰川可在公路上拦车,一般上午8点半左右经过。
去雨崩同样建议轻装,7、8月份里面不冷,一件长袖罩山足够了,主要是挡太阳而不是保暖。事实上一般情况下你只会觉得热而不是冷!我们穿的是一件长袖的快干衬衣。
建议做一个简易的拐杖,这能让你轻松很多。很多时候不用自己动手,留心一下路边就可以了!
租马到垭口是100,到上雨崩140,到下雨崩160,据说是统一价不能还,不信你可以试试!
里面的饭菜可以适应,不过不能吃辣的照例要事先申明一下。建议带巧克力、压缩饼干等干粮,出去时一般中午都是吃干粮的,而巧克力对补充体能卓有成效,这点我深有体会!
带一些驱虫水,多少有些用。不过我们没碰上跳蚤什么的,万幸!
Recommended Accommodation:
下雨崩:神瀑客栈、世外桃源藏家客栈、
上雨崩:阿忠老师家上、下雨崩间:徒步者之家风景以徒步者之家为最佳,不过如前说可能会有挪窝困扰;条件最好的是阿忠老师家,有唯一的浴室和厕所! !
除神瀑、冰湖外,附近还有一个神湖,不过路程更远,可能需要露营,有露营装备的可以去,据说不错。
从温泉到德钦的车最晚下午4点,没有车去明永,除非去的人多,司机才会转去明永。温泉包面的到明永100元。
补充一点:带上学生证能为你省不好钱! !
用了三天的时间,每天面对屏幕10小时以上,我终于把当时的只言片语转成了两万多的文字。而我,也如同再次回到了路上,失望、惊喜、甚至愤怒,转换的如此之快,让我有些无措。
有问题我们联系我:wymm6@hotmail.com,愿意为您效劳! !
作者:wymm6