Taken from the Tourism Travels Network yyl2000.nease.net/youji.htm
Siguniangshan Jiuzhaigou Travels I
1999.9.27. Selected targets.
11 National Day, where playing (Sichuan, then pipe "playing" is called "playing")? This is what I think the problem every year. To go out, otherwise I would suffocate! In previous years due to vacation time is short, only go to Beijing in the vicinity of few places (such as dam grasslands). Official release this year, seven days leave, plus great Sunday two days to be followed a few days off, there are 10 days may be playing. But would like to go where the bad. Until the evening of September 27 to see scenery, Sichuan Satellite TV is put a piece, with snow-capped mountains, grasslands, rivers, lakes, virgin forest. Scenery-lai, Tibetan style simplicity, which is located in the Siguniangshan Aba, Sichuan - China's Alps. My heart whom earthquake. I just want to go to Jiuzhaigou, but where many people can play 11 months the time difference, first went to four mountain girl. But, as I am a person to a mysterious plateau that work? Fully prepared to have to go about.
September 28. Ready to go.
Then get ready pack. To spend 800 Tai Yuen Sang Winter bought the backpack (55 liters), sleeping bag (-14 degrees) and moisture-proof pad. Ask my colleagues borrowed a double tent. Medicines (This going to buy anti-alpine response to drugs, not) and food (with two pounds it, enough for me to eat half a month, and then I silly). The most important is to buy a ticket, of course, is the ticket. online can only be set to the fifth day of the votes (lily is cold). So the afternoon went straight to West Railway Station. but too late, 29 to 7 in Chengdu, has no sleeper, and hard seat may sit 32 hours, not to ground the first child tired half to death. I was worried about, do not want to encounter a kindly old lady, she insisted on his own berth give me (think about America, I have added a 100 yuan!). I buy the Sichuan map, four volumes of reversal film , through a wilderness survival books.
September 29. Departure.
Co-workers know that I'm going to a wild child, you may not return, sub-sub to see me. Says it is worried that bad, or the envy of every sincere and earnest (I think, they want it, but the wife and kids who are not open to de - , loss of self). During the day the unit packed his luggage. sleeping bags, clothes, food, medicine, film, flashlight, rain coat, a nikon body with two lenses (24,50 mm, leisure sink with 80-200F2.8) there is book .. (packages are no longer swell band). kits is a moisture-proof pad, tent, tripod and 1.5 liters of water. bottles and after I tried to back the back, too heavy! on that one, said 50 kilograms. I walked down the stairs carrying on, tired as not to tired, that is shoulder pain. have been 21:00, and 11:30 made cars. brisk walking did not walk a few steps .. a soft heart (should be a soft legs) to a tripod unloaded, slightly lighter light. a taxi to the West Railway Station. I wore short-sleeved T-shirt, carrying a large bag half my height alone into ticket gates. have been hundreds of people waiting. inspection of the votes, got on . what is it waiting for me, danger, loneliness, joy, Is Yan Yu? ...
September 29.23:30-10 on 1.7:55. On the train.
The car would each face a serious and preoccupied. Conductor let me to write letters of appreciation, I did not mind, just write a three (practice very word). Nothing to start reading, to more than five pages of "Field Survival Guide" and the "Sichuan Maps" turned a few times. always thinking that as early as 6:50 train to Chengdu North Railway Station, Bus Station a taxi might catch up with Simon's car long hair day (a day shift). but I was dreaming! Train 7 : 55 only to Chengdu. I ran out of a small platform, through the rush of the crowd, finally stopped on a black-faced Simon went straight to the station. I wanted to sure a lot of this big package to go back Siguniangshan. but station a look, no. one of my children. a look at the car long hair past 6:40 hair. It is 8:25. finished, had to spend the night in the town of.
October 1. Go to has grown.
I came to buy a ticket to the day-long ticket tomorrow, the conductor asked me why I do not buy today's votes, Huh? Today there car?! Ha ha ha .. I hasten to buy a ticket on the train. On the bus I asked a small overweight passengers, cars why not on schedule. "chanting !!!". In fact, I wait for you superfluous to ask the person pulling the driver busy enough. waited for half an hour car finally opened. the car has been studying a small fatty my baggage. a chat, small fat man, surnamed Li, Chengdu locals, engage in medical marketing, was also brought to Siguniangshan and 3 User (Guangzhou girls). Zhengou I say you are tired, and will be subject to abuse , Xiao Pang disagree and no longer the same reason I talk on the Tibetan girl. vehicle mixed crowd, some chatting, some singing, some eating, some sleeping. I think their minds woodenly looked out the window. as if it was, and me.
"You just said what?" I asked the front row of the Tibetan girl.
"I asked you not to Siguniangshan? Back big pack unsinkable? Do you wear too ..."
"All right, you go there playing?"
"No, my family lived on long, I was coming home on vacations." Qiao Xiao sweet little girl.
I started observing her. Swarthy skin healthy, beautiful and handsome faces, Smart clear eyes, a bit like the elephant played "Red River Valley" the quiet, Tibetans have such a beautiful do? Did not expect. But I am not interested in her, give her a Xiao Pang.
Car is Britain, Britain's I have to stand up. Chassis package sounds of crackling out of the passenger's head. Vehicle and began climbing the Governor's River weir, the river themselves up. After a steeper slope of the Wolong . car to go Z-shaped climbing. collapse of stone from time to time on the road blocking our way. Road is very narrow, one side is a steep mountain, one side is the abyss. the vehicle suddenly slow, and I look forward one. well, road The boulders have been landslides blocked a half, leaving only a slit of about 2 meters. Our buses certainly make life difficult. are thinking of a sudden car a ramp (inclined abyss, the rear wheels vacant) shocked me, but the car soon is back and managed to squeeze past to continue to climb. issued by cattle car like roaring, trembling, black smoke. flameout down the slide several times also. several vehicles parked on the roadside from time to time in the repair. We walk through the cloud car, 10 meters outside the paw not see six means (who's hand can be extended 10 meters? A language problem!). Side of the road when the Yak disappeared the next. The car was cold, I wear a short-sleeved upper body . Balang Shan car climbed to the mouth (altitude 4450M), head a bit dizzy, heart block. had to open the package out jackets to wear. car began to draw dragons, 180-degree turn one side by side. I was on the children is halo halo this time. Drivers to master that you do not faint!
Took a dramatic turn and suddenly. Car started downhill, the car began to cheer - to see the snow-capped mountains. Dangerous road passed the car quickly to a long-Ping Village (long flat Mizoguchi). Xiao Pang pull out all the solutions of surgery, they did the Tibetan girl, as his tour guide, disappointed down the car. I am also at a loss to get off, I do not know where to go. Has been more than 5 pm, and is into the ditch, or live in the village? Into the ditch probably too late to tie tent days dark. Is hesitation, the car down a small group, Heishou high, with a glasses, Chengdu people, surnamed Xu. He also Beizhao Bao and tents (smaller than my package more) We have come together stay of whether a passenger station. passenger station owner surnamed Yan (which may be the Han people to wear The inverted tourists), enthusiastically tells us: sold out ... but can be at his house flat roof bar tent.
This is a highest parent Ping Village, the largest passenger station, up and down two floors. Layer is a restaurant and kitchen, second floor guest rooms. We intend to tie on the first floor roof tent. I saw Xiao Pan, he and three students kind of a girl sitting room door, is to worry about accommodation. I was snicker. Xiaopang do not want to come to help us tie tent and would like to shared with us. live it, is more afraid. I, and this time also became the owner Xiao Xu啦! We met with a cordial and friendly to the tenant - 3 Guangzhou girl. I find that there's no joke to have Cantonese children, but they are with me a different impression of Guangdong girl. they have to pretty much, but cheerful generosity many not see things, Zilai Shu. I put my borrowed tent lent their (should be able to squeeze three people). I, Xiao Xu, Xiao Pang to live in another slightly larger point. finally tied up tent paved moisture-proof pad, the bag into the tent fling, lie down and rest. rest. Huh? I suddenly he discovered how hot it?! good comfortable (like the Northeast heated kang), that our tent is the kitchen?! hey , to hell with it, if not the latrine ... tent outside look inside to see visitors from time to time opened a curtain and asked me to stay here Lengbu Leng, it really was fun. I laugh: neither cold nor amusing!
Tent had to stay do not go out and find Xiao Pan Xiao Xu pulled away. Longzhen link them to the day after tomorrow to climb big peaks of those people, if called "green" (Do not reverse the word Nian -- wild ass). The so-called peak is the most dwarf of the Beautiful Lady Siguniangshan Mountain, elevation 5640m, ditch climb from the sea. the sky is already dark, the wind more tightly (tents are fortunate to have luggage Crimping, or will become a kite ). looked up and the sky is clear, the sky was big and bright stars to shake I could not open eyes, a pity I did not bring sunglasses (somewhat exaggerated). Xiao Pan, and Xiao Xu came back, did not connect (Xiao Pan have not brought phone number). We are all hungry and 6, along with downstairs to open summarized. Let me surprised: it's a dish more than any Beijing restaurant is inexpensive. Meat 8 yuan, vegetables 4 yuan. meat to yak meat as a Lord, yak meat, beef than we have to eat hard, some thick fibers. the amount of this dish can also be, that is too salty (the boss surnamed Yan, called Yan Gang. wow! salt-cylinder, can we not salty Mody!) rice in the We talk about life, talking about ideals, about love, about learning, express their views in a cordial atmosphere. We are sharing the name. My name is Lao Yang (actually not old, just three children) There are a total of three men Xiao Xu Xiao Pang. 3 Miss are: black with long hair are called "small-Yun", yellow clothes with short hair is called "small group", and light clothing without hair (oh, there is hair, the hat) is called "little hope." Yun small, small group, Small Hope looks different features (nonsense) does not describe one by one, or else they would beat me to see. In short all belong to the kind of beautiful.
Small group of reticent and eat very little, stern. Ate a little hope San Taiwan rice, startled I forgot to chew the mouth of the rice that I ate two bowls, I asked her to eat cooked rice bowls, and she seriousness of thought, said: "cooked rice that .. do not know!" (Maybe she really heard of Ma Sanli cross-talk). Small Yun-special love to laugh, we are talking about are generally do not laugh, then make her laugh a half a day "in a good funny, can not stand in啦", which sounds to me very confused. Guangdong birds I did not understand啦.
Small group has been silence and silent, half a day before supper, and occasionally to restore calm after barely a smile. I asked her if she is not used to, too cold or Zhuangku, she did not speak is always shaking her head. Finally, I anxiously: Are you sick! small group finally nodded his head: "I am sick stomach, headaches, nausea." small group of a restaurant on the spit, and stop eating Nuanwei medicine. I think she may be rather strong reaction to high altitudes bar, eat the stomach to be regardless of things. Xiaopang understood although the point of selling counterfeit medicine is also unable to help. Dao Shi Xiao Xu Ting You love to give small group of massage first hand the major points. small group is the feel better, and showing long and almost invisible smile. can be Xiao Xu excessive force increases due to mountain sickness hurt his head down, and had Zimo (self-massage).
Back to the tent, but fortunately things are still. Xiao Xu is the dark clouds of the (Beijing dialect), accompanied only by my day-long phone call Xiaopangzaiqu. Days have been rotten, and we chat while walking along the winding dark road. Xiaopan Walking is too slow, as only the Cubs. I also had to slow down. about a quarter of an hour we went to the Japanese Long Zhen. Longzhen than on a large multi-Changping village. Xiaopan facing the phone said a half-day Sichuan dialect, with a smile hanging , and asked me if I climb big peaks with them. I said no, no, no. "girls" should not only be far-sighted close to play carry on Chi!
Accompanied Xiao Pang is 10 o'clock to come back can be little hope, small Yun, Xiao Xu Hai Moshui is playing cards with another tenant (true there are hidden). Small group may have been asleep. I am also penetrate into the sleeping bags, tents and a short, leg extension is not straight. It started to drizzle, they are starting to come back penetrate into the sleeping bag. small group they are not moisture-proof pad, had to control strictly the boss borrowed a quilt pad below.
Middle of the night I was awakened by grunting of pigs, Huh? Whose pigs can be never ending? Sleepy eyes sing my song listen closely, originally Xiao Pang was snoring, and the sonic booms neighbors, there are echoes of several valleys. Xiaopan snore characteristic: for a while sound great, while voice is small, while teeth, while also pit clatter clatter pit mouth. Usually, I deal with people who snore was the first pinch his nose and get him awake, and then pretended to snore themselves to sleep again. but Whether this mode of use, Xiao Pang did two minutes began to snore, and began talking in your sleep. I had to plug their ears with a cloth and try to whistle, or does not work. Xiangshangcesuo down blowing my own. After an uncomfortable dawn, everyone woke up, I was still lying down. Xiaopan a smile said to me: "Last night you snore a bar!
"" No wow? Yes Xiao Xu bar. "I am a straight face, but my mind was snicker.
October 2. You Changping ditch.
Plateau in the morning cold, the sky a cloud blocks the ground a touch of fog. Surrounding peaks hidden in the clouds, at times when, as if fairyland. We had finished our breakfast began to start. Cooking Tibetan old Aunt definitely want us to take on each of two pie 2 eggs (which is money in). Zanghan unity had to accept it, from Xiao Pan back (Xiao Pang was a grin). We bought a ticket into the ditch began. Siguniangshan Scenic divided for long flat ditch Shuangqiao Gou, sea ditch. Changping ditch way in which the most difficult to walk.
One into the ditch we are separated. Poor health and rented a small group of horses walking in front, I've quickly followed. But the package is too heavy, in order to keep physically had to put a uniform pace to keep breathing steady, go for a long time Not really, not tired. I looked back, Xiao Pang them into a black spots. Incidentally, I stopped to take photos, etc. to go with them. Xiao Pang They go too slow, and the old break, in order to take the quick look I took a small sleeping bag back over. My pace was still heavily the (package must have a 50 kilograms), and the shoulders and neck began to ache. The road ahead is far from it, yesterday, listening to strict boss said, focusing instead kept walking until 17 o'clock to go to the beauty of the entrance, the more we look inside the U.S. and Vietnam scenery, take the end of the day back to three days (ditch length 29km). This is not exhausted me! And went for a while, it began to rain days. I quickly ran out poncho to wear under a tree, did not go 10 minutes the rain stopped. I just took off his raincoat, the rain there came up. God in and I joke that whenever I wore a raincoat rain no less, one off on the next. Simply put it up to coat a natural bath. Ha, Heaven is no way a bar!
Small group and horses in an intersection waiting for us to go together after merging. Withered under an attraction called the Beach, to the withered beach has to go through a long muddy path - Talent-Bank Trail. This trail winding dirt roads lined with tall trees and ancient primitive plants a tree hung with crystal green strip carried by the wind put the dew, listening to Xiao Xu says that it has a beautiful name - Green basket . Beauty of the former I can no longer walk, focusing instead on silly, like walking and take pictures. But the backpack is too heavy, to walk to the upper body must lean forward, and the high center of gravity, feet will be a slip fall, such as holding the camera is even more dangerous. Tourists ride a horse one way to pick one, due to Road narrow, there are several horses almost my butt stick up the valley. Photography can only be rented horses to pack luggage.
The horse owner is a Tibetan youth, he wanted to own back in my bag (Ma and idle reusable and arresting the people to make money). He did not back away for a while, and the bag tied to the horse asked me: "You This bag is a stone?" "No, it's steamed bun." I did not lie to him, and light to eat I'll take a few catties 10. Now I finally understand what "relief." Horse in front, I was behind the shooting at random, according to Wan-Sang Lianpao with Britain after the catch, laugh ...
To the beach front of a large piece of dried tree lawn (2 Ping) is noon, clearing up. I immediately unload luggage from them. Soon a small hope, small Yun, small groups, Xiao Pan, and Xiao Xu is up. Everyone is tired, and to the grass too lazy to move a lie. Plateau poison sun tan good for us comfortable.
I took food for distribution to each person "help out the band I eat more, we eat ah." "Hey! Beijingers children, eat, what reward?" Little hope with a smile asked. "The award you eat 10 sausage!."
I took a break in the direction of a compass watch, the small hope they also Couguo of view, I want to learn the basic skills to survive the wild two strokes. I seriously told them holding a compass in hand to see will not be allowed, because the person iron. They said it was no use of the do not! "Useful, I put a stone on the compass on the distant telescope to see." "That's right, how do we did not expect?! Waiting for me to take this note down." While they were praising my smart, I sigh: "Oh!, but may also be iron-containing rocks .. .. Oh?!" They understand the situation, turning no attention to me.
A few more steps in front of withered trees on the beach, and may be they just do not move. Me and Xiao Xu had to pull one by one. Withered beach is really worthy of the name, all kinds of bizarre shapes withered, bare branches fork wild stretch of sky, trees are criss-crossing of the streams and beaches. We started in photography. "Hey! Beijingers children, to the edge of Kaokao you?" Little Wang Yun was about to give a small camera. I said no problem, homeopathic look around a little by Yun. "Rely on Well, according to bar!" "Kacha" I did not really think on the photo.
We have just closed a long scene with really good, one by one gave all sorts of small groups have begun to have a smile. The average visitor to this anti-started back, because we have tents, children are not afraid of no land, housing, natural look inside to go.
The more dense the trees to go look inside the more primitive, quiet meandering paths always use to go forward could not finish. Little hope that they go too slow, but also when the travel-time stop, a stop is a half-day. I am not a good one lone, stopped to chat with. Comparison of these three southern cheerful girl, love to laugh, lively and natural. Daoshi us to drive away a lot of fatigue. We sometimes wear the woods, and sometimes take the single-plank bridge across the river, when both feet into the mud ... but finally arrived at 5 pm you can tie a lawn tent - on a dry Hai Zi.
Hai Zi valley surrounded by mountains on the dry mountain tops, little lawn there, this should be a good camping place. But the lawn was strewn with stones large and small, must have rolled down the hill bar. Xiao Xu and I carefully looked at, I can not see is not a new fallen off. With its bar, everyone tired. Break for a while, I asked to be in front of a look, see if it is better to children. Small and small-Yun Wang volunteered to go with me, from Xiao Xu bar tent and take care of small groups (Xiao Pang has not seen at this time, you may go to fertilization)
Walk down package that is easy, we say with a smile passed through a large forest a small bridge, a half-hour late-met with a lawn. There are 45 tents on the lawn, off-balance people are busy to cook. Piece of lawn between the two snow-capped mountains, it is draft position, cold wind biting, scenery is very America. Little hope that they went straight to the fire, roast lamb away. I found a guy look familiar Chengdu chat, he said they were also the allocation of Internet knowledge from around the country. Boy see my upper body wearing a short sleeve T shirt asked me Lengbu Leng, I bite the strong laugh, "a little hot ... hee hee hee." We talked for a half an hour, the small hope that they do not take the meaning is clearly trying to turn me into a cold mutton!
Back on dry Hai Zi days have been dark down. I quickly dressed and take medicine to help Xiao Xu tie tents, girls who were collecting firewood fetching water. A moment later, Xiao Pang Pidianpidian down from the hill. Xiao Pang the original not to fertilization, but rather to visit neighbors (in our camp on the slopes there is another group of people living in a stable.)
Dedication of the girls, picking up the pyre was like a small Siguniangshan Unfortunately, most of all wet, it can not rely on them, after all, a long rain the next morning. Health finally played a fire, smoke may have two tears in his eyes that we are not natives. We made two pots of water, and the pie and sausage baked out, and is pretty tastefully. Fire Ying-that every person's blush red, eyes with tears, I wonder if smoke or get too excited, perhaps afraid of?! we do not speak, the time seems to have solidified. My mind was flying back to the warmth of home.
Middle of the night, Xiao Pang's grunt start anew, and even aliens can be heard. Hey! No alternative but to close their eyes meditatively. Ai? I finally came up with a stroke, I woke up Xiao Pang stabbed, telling him that his voice may be the incurred Wolf (wolf mistaken Xiao Pang is a pig, eat Pork). Xiaopan initially very afraid to stop the snore. but after a while child, Xiao Pan leaned out of the tent daring turn full circle, came back saying that I cheated he still went on snore. hey! This time I did not forward to the. tent outside the raining, the wind is not small, which is really the wind, rain, sound of snore sound pleasant to the ear, I can only appreciate this is not wonderful and the playing of a! However, apart from the sound of things, I vaguely heard the footsteps of the off-balance. not really the wolf, right? A moment later, footsteps walk a longer distance, and wolves may have been frightened away the voice of Xiao Pan bar (later found to be the first small yak).
October 3. Sulcus.
After an uncomfortable morning, climbing tents. Days to stop crying, surrounded by mist, surrounded by fresh air, the spirit of man has also been a sudden. Unfortunately, I would like to join us, and Xiao Xu broke up. We have to have to go look inside, to find that film is more pure sky. they have to return to a long flat village. We are left with each other correspondence address, and photo sessions. Xiaopan and girls looked at their backs away, but I do not know when the longer meet. from different places also a few more friends.
Xiao Pang They did not walk much quicker. Just back of the bag heavier and heavier legs and more, Shen. Yanzhao He we go up. As the river gradually narrows, the river deeper and more turbulent, and finally it had to cross the river to find a new road by now.
River on both sides of the trees fell in the river after the death of disorder, we stand on slippery trunk moved step by step to the other side as far as possible to keep the body balanced, tree torrent of water spray thrown up by a film. My shoes is not good, go a few steps almost falling water to a slide. He simply took off his shoes into the bag went the other side. The other side of the road is not long had to come back, after crossing several times into a red boulders was before.
Red stone in the sun shining the group issued under the ruby-like light, feel like being in fairyland. We stopped to look before the camera away after dinner. Not far away was a big rodeo blocking the avenue, circle There are dozens of leaders Lu Xiong Guang of the yak. trackless earlier, we turn around a half an hour, but could not find the road had to bite the bullet through the rodeo. Tibetan yaks than our common cattle large laps, looking at In fact, tame vicious. through the rodeo and went for a while has finally come to wood mules. This is two in the afternoon.
Why is called the "wooden mule" may only locals know. But I think it might be even mule here will also be here for beautiful wood of the shock, and I had wood anyway. On both sides is the towering snow-capped mountains and holy, a quiet the clean water around the meantime, the water there is the reflection of snow-capped mountains and blue sky. flat bare glossy dark green lawn of geraniol leisurely grazing in the wind's blowing in the secluded Yau, took us a lot of fatigue. can in this life the more Good. I began to split up photography Xu. cow seems interested in my backpack, a few of the walking group. I quickly pulling backpack on, careless to have just taken out of the mushrooms on the ground. Doudiao beef to mushrooms only the plastic bag to eat, it also puzzles me: Is cattle are also environmentally conscious? other cattle have also come to see looting, we have repeatedly out of cattle has been surrounded, of course, can not give them plastic bags to eat, throwing the ham sausage They do not even look to see. At last a man named Marco siege of the locals to help us, a few stone cattle ran away. Marco side there is a guy look familiar and we chatted up. lad called Yi, the Beijing accent a little bit strange . He went first to the Jiuzhaigou before they can come Siguniangshan. we decided to go back together. We walk and talk. the world is really small, benefits are not only Beijingers still my university alumni that I The Young.
Lateness of the hour, can not cover that day and a half before nightfall the distance depends on our feet. The ground I walk faster than they are, but the mountain does not. Bashansheshui two days for my legs like a shrub Lead as heavy. Eventually, I fell behind. yi started to see not the past, take the initiative to help me back backpack. we have changed the backpack keeps moving forward. just talked and laughed the benefits began to silence. in the palpable after the first ten minutes walk, benefits to come back to my bag unloading, embarrassed smile: "Or do you back bar!"
Finally, we walked back to the withered beach, finally rented a horse to catch everyone's luggage and then drive back. At 17 o'clock number to reach a lamasery. Lamasery has collapsed due to disrepair, leaving only a few Duan Canbi is the afterglow of the setting sun dyed golden yellow, revealing a trace of past glory. We rented a plane down a long winding dirt road back to the village level. the driver without a license and open flying back and we chat from time to time (really Arts NAO were bold). a quarter of an hour later, we returned to the long-Ping Village.
My legs have been out of the car not move one step, but the mouth still moving. Sanmao money pound of apples I ate samgun what really delicious. They both went to a small hope that they split up. Group of the first to discover the eating apple I, happy to run over to me affectionately. I restrain my delight barely lived to escape her, men and women are not pro-animal beasts. nice, we all met again, and in the ancient Tibetan village. We are now a total of six Personal: I, Yi, Xiao Xu, and three girls in Guangzhou: Wang, Yun, group (formerly chubby little green people who already went to climb major peaks). We looked for a Tibetan family began to pack down for dinner. This a small village a bit strange - but not during the day and electricity at night. We had candles. began to drizzle outside, the house we chatted days of wine drinking green trees and warm molten candle Yinghong joy of each person's face. we have to discuss the next day to Shuangqiao Gou. Play Shuangqiao Gou to ride, not so tired.
Meal is more than 21:00. The girls wanted to participate in the local Tibetans held § fire party. I am tan and in need of a good rest. Zangmin house has filled with people, and only the kitchen is also empty. I am in the kitchen corner of the paved moisture-proof pad began to penetrate into the sleeping bag to sleep. middle of the night, I woke up very thirsty and began to look for water. I saw a big ancient pots, heavy. So when a number of out drank. there are shares of strange taste acid in tea, as root, will not be ... I am not feeling rushed to vomit.
Mimi kick into gear early morning sleep. Legs, or pain, feeling limp Meijin Er, up beat tongbiquan, much better. Eating breakfast when I saw that big pot. Tibetan Aunt put it down when heated to give each of us a bowl of . It turns out that something called millet Camellia oleifera, previously heard, the original is the taste.
Jiuzhaigou Siguniangshan Travels II
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10.4 You Shuangqiao Gou.
Shuangqiao Gou be chartered in order to play with. We began to split up or car. Tractor actually have 200, dirty, unsafe. No way, a good car yesterday on the package have been finished. Also look for a long time, and finally rented a surface (of 230 million). the driver have to bring his co-pilot, we have six victims had crowded at the back. car bumps the way forward. laughter inside the car outside the charming scenery. fresh air along Britain to open the car windows blew in, blew a lot of city people's worries. the weather is really good, white clouds floating around the snow-capped mountains, like the girls Rousha. At this time, we began to envy friends can take the tractor to appreciate that there is no obstruction美景.
Car into an attraction called "ginseng fruit Ping". And withered different beach scenery. The river between two mountains where the grass was divided into a few. Horses grazing in the leisurely. Herdsman riding from time to time wading river, splashes a piece spray. distant snow-capped mountains in the clouds hover in the current (near could not see, too many tourists). Car owners take advantage of our camera while playing away for dinner. benefits and Xiao Xu want to come to car keys, grabbing for the This is to appreciate the nature and the feeling of unity of people and vehicles. Zennai vehicle identification Health, half do not move, they had to push the experience of (is indeed a unity of people and vehicles). You finished ginseng fruit floor, find the driver to go look inside . car after five-color mountains, sun and moon Hokyo, Hunter Peak, Eagle Rock came nuipengzi. photographed reached the ditch, immediately following the forward - redwood forest. As the name suggests, there should be a large redwood forest. But unfortunately there are few patches of open space a look at is to be cut off. Sequoia is running out, instead of using pine and cypress. out of the car we started playing. through a forest over a stream began to climb up the hill. Hill is very steep, from the snow line has been very close. no tools up very dangerous, had to down the mountain.
All the way back asleep, mouth smile of satisfaction. I did not smile fixed on the road, chatting with the driver to prevent him from time to time, and also "smile." Safety first away from home. Not that I Ximing, after all, for my family consideration. not to play crazy, parents are worried, especially as this wild child. I remember the words: safety first!
Back to the median value obtained from Chang-ping ditch evening, Tengen light rain. We looked for a restaurant and began drink and chat. Acid Su Camellia oleifera, such as the Sprite-like highland barley wine, coarse mane beef, sweet Ye Jun, as well as Tibetan boy's Han Xiao. Akira really like Kate. For a time no one to speak, the time seems to have also solidified (solidification front seems to have been one back, sorry).
After dinner we returned to the Tibetan hotel. Availability do not have the room to pitch a tent. I can finally sleep in silk dreams, and Kazakhstan. But the girls are hanging around our room did not go, had to Xiang Pei, and their banner bifurcation. Casual remark amused that they rock with laughter, but .. more reluctant to go.
10.5 You sea ditch.
Plateau morning dawn early. Several more cock and Bark streaks sandwiched blowing smoke is that we feel in the city of reach. Want to eat breakfast. I ate a few bread, a few eggs, several large potatoes, porridge bowls, a few baskets. . . 9:45 we began to ditch into the sea to work towards it, the world is a light rain. Shepherd rushed geraniol also set out. I just back the camera, so it was easy to go. Ditch in the sea of the Beautiful Lady Mountain Siguniangshan direction, we started up the mountain. Soon came a large piece of turf - alpine meadow. Here they are nothing but grass, such as Yin Chang Bugao, purple wildflowers sway gently in the wind. A Beautiful Lady distant snow-capped mountains in the clouds when changing disappeared the next. To listen to the locals talk about here is called pot Ping Chong. Every Tibetan has a grand celebration of holiday here, you can see Tibetan Dance - Guozhuang dance. Unfortunately, we did not catch up. As the late morning and starting to arrive before dark sea, the child should have to rush back to brisk walking.
We followed a muddy path around the mountain, walking, bypassing a Road ridge. Then days have been sunny, the sun tan I am straight sweating. We sat down Ohira, a stone resting on the roadside, so that the warm basking in the sun. Yun not want to go small, and mainly shoes, bad, uneven soles, walking up and tired, but it is also very comfortable stay. Say No action she had left her here, so we came back, and good in the vicinity of crowded safer.
After the road is even harder to go. Rain to the mountain path into the sections. Where there is water can not be trampled, or feet will be stuck to. Pin can be pulled out, of course, but the shoes were left inside the (constant, daily will become a fossil), so too Rao Zhuozou.
I and benefits, a small hope to go in front. I found that pretty little hope can go, and one even served as soldiers inquiries. No wonder. . A strong female character as a political commissar of the altar is clearly tired and you still endure! However, I would grab her bag over his back. I'll look like a little afraid that she took the package ran like followed me and hold me fast she was fast, I stopped she stopped. It seems the money bag is really a lot of them went back to not lose his home, thinking they can not help Huaixiao up. Wang asked me what a small laugh, I just laughed off the question. They inadvertently go back more than a few found in packets Su wildflowers sway in the wind, Shashi beautiful. She has been with me the original in the flower arrangement, though I do not agree with her destruction of nature, but. . After horses, I asked how far in front of Ma-off. The answer: "there is nothing kilometers." I think there are four kilometers, thus more than an hour way. For nearly two hours left, but has not arrived yet, and then ask a person have to walk more than two hours. Annoyed! , Just that people said was 10 kilometers. We and other groups and Xiao Xu in place, is now two in the afternoon, walking back do not look at King have to three hours. Had to go back. Fortunately, I wanted to go to Jiuzhaigou, where the Haizi best in the world, do not worry about the look.
Western Paradise of the sunset like a mushroom cloud from a volcanic eruption in the transmission out of the distant hunters Xuefeng Ying red. The silhouette of small hope that they will not move in the sunset in the solidification. This scene which in my dream if there have been, can I really in a dream? On the way back we encountered Xiao Pang. , And a gang he just went to the Beautiful Lady mountain climbing. Down the snow hill last night, Xiao Pang's hands froze as steamed bread, pinch of a pit. However, the spirit of Xiao Pang is very good, talked and laughed. I smile, because few days ago, carrying a large bag on the plateau on the forced march, and now on the corner to the left leg pain. Finally, I am behind. Several of the girls actually can not keep up!
The mountains are dark early, I am a man moved slowly forward behind. It has long been blowing cold air penetrating the already soaked coat. Several repeated tearing thin moonlight shines on the road. What to eat that morning, a few have already gone, belly in protest. But I was lucky, a small group of even more impossible, by Xiao Xu arm forward behind me. Unfortunately, no one mix me giggle. .
Back to Long Ping Village is naturally high meal to eat. After eating, we discuss the matter tomorrow, the anti-ride tickets. Buy now it was too late. Had to drag the boss to buy salt. Old salt Mankoudaying, let us get up at five o'clock tomorrow morning.
10.6 back to Chengdu.
To get up on her own big bag to the station, from Salt boss to take us on the train. The car had no seat and had to sit on the long aisle of chairs. Car severe overcrowding can still Exalted. Drivers really make money not to life, and our life has a good grasp in his hands. I was thinking about not going, car has been started. Dilapidated bus, not to mention, not to mention on the distant road. Alas, fatalistic bar!
Car all the way to climb, the road has become dangerous, because end up with ice. Still dark days, it has gradually sleep. There is a pair of bright dark eyes watching every move the front: how the driver did not honk at turning, but also to smoke, vehicles do not, on how anti-skid chains, next to that cliff. . . I stabbed awake benefits, so he also helped me to see the road ahead. He actually laugh at me! I have to mind read: om ma ni bei mei hong sects, Tibetan mantra of the sixth.
At dawn, I was too tired to fall asleep. Suddenly, I was awakened by cheers. A big snow. We have been driven on snow-capped mountains. Around the vast expanse of whiteness one, hard to tell which is which is the snow cloud. Strongly asked to stop taking pictures everyone. In particular, Southerners rarely seen snow. I cheer with my film will not easily give us the slides and video.
The morning sun, red, large, Ying was the snow like a flame, and this is more than 4000 meters above sea level, at the foot of mountains in our clouds. What Guilaibukan Huangshan mountain, this is the real mountains, there is a man of spirit! Huangshan compared with only Naiyouxiaosheng Bale.
We were stop-go, time off fast. Car knew it had come to the town of Wolong. Something to eat in the town, after we began to stroll. The local mountain people put a lot of Taner, there are butterfly specimens and a variety of herbs, all kinds of rare species of butterflies here, there, and reasonably cheap. I certainly would not buy a butterfly (Who put the dead at home, even though very beautiful) and only visiting the drug spread. I have one way or another engaged in pharmaceutical wholesale and chubby little to help me see I've just bought a fungus, such as a small red umbrella, only 4 money 1. Identified by Xiao Pang is true, but say that I Mai Guile. I also bought a few catties fleece-flower root, saffron. . .
Cars had been launched, and finally returned to Chengdu. We live to benefit a few days ago lived in the West Hotel (3 human 60 yuan, cheap). Everyone like Ni Hou, in order to prevent passers-by an annoyed look, was changing clothes.我出去买衣服回来洗了个澡，换新衣服啦！ Giggle.穿上新衣的我容光焕发，这倒引得群她们几个女孩侧目，看得我直不好意思。
成都的夜生活极为丰富，各种档次的酒吧、ok和餐馆很多。由地主小徐带领我们吃了麻辣火锅。我一直不明白四川火锅为什么很少涮羊肉？尽是一些白菜豆腐火腿鱿鱼等杂七杂八的东西，这和我在北京的小天鹅吃的可不一样。就这我和益还是吃多了，锅里不会放了罂栗吧。吃完饭我们结伴去了一家夜总会(是酒吧迪厅ok和茶馆的混合体)，这是我第一次来这种地方。平时我除了上班就是上网最后是上床，放假时上山，还真没去过什么娱乐场所。
这里灯红酒绿，不时有歌舞表演和钢琴独奏。我只对钢琴演奏感兴趣，因为我刚买了一钢琴。想起买钢琴时情景就好笑：我在姜杰钢琴城把所有钢琴都弹了几遍，反复比较四小时后买下音色满意价格又能接受的一款。售琴小姐在帮我挑琴凳时问我小孩多大了(她要根据弹者的高度选凳的高矮)我想了想说我小孩还小呢,才30岁。小姐也笑了，问我这么大了才学琴是不是晚了点...我急了，我怎么大了？ !
10.7游成都。
成都我是第二次来了。 92年暑假时来过，和同学。我们当时游了峨眉山青成山乐山。当时便宜，才花了3百多元。故地重游，风景依旧，人却变了，心态也变了，变得宁静平和。上午我们去了望江公园。望江的竹不比紫竹院的差且更加润绿。游人并不多，倒是本地人把这当成露天大茶馆。
竹林的平地上人们围桌而坐，喝茶聊天。还有不少人在打麻将，活得真滋润。在北京的公园喝茶想都别想。北京人的节奏要快的多，为了生活而奔忙却少了点情趣，也不知整天在忙什么。我们也要了一壶清茶围桌而坐，任江上的微风拂过，和一些天南海北的人谈一些天南海北的事。中午我们去了成都的小吃街吃小吃，十块钱十样，精致又好吃。下午我们到南门汽车站买了8号早上去九寨沟的旅游大巴车票(80元/人包一晚住宿）。就我和三个姑娘去，益和小徐都去过所以不去了。其实我很想一个人去，主要是去风光摄影，一个人会比较自由。但在她们的诚邀下却不好独行。 Alas!人在江湖，身不由己。
10。8去九寨沟。
早八点的车她们七点才起，由益把我们送上出租车。不必说，自是一番别离，好在北京能再见。到车站吃了早饭上车。车上人不多也就十几个人，比较舒服宽敞。车上还配了一名导游小姐解说沿途风光。路还长着呢，听说要开12个小时。开始我和群坐在一起。她们可真行，早上刚起床这会儿又睡着了。我却一刻不停的欣赏着沿途的风景。
车沿滚滚岷江而上，还是无休止的盘山公路，无休止的塌方，我却早已不再紧张。一个大坑把群颠得微睁双眼，半梦半醒着对我说出了一句很让我震惊的话：“让我爱你好不好？！”说着就把头靠在我肩上。我脸一红立刻回答：不好！并离开了座位。我虽然是单身还没女朋友，且群也确实很漂亮。但这也太快了吧，我们还都缺乏了解。她好象很不满意，嘟囔着说我太小气，头歪到另一边睡了。我想了想顿时哑然失笑，这才明白广东话把“挨”叫“爱”（这让我想起了姜昆的一个相声）。幸亏她们都没醒，要不多尴尬。中午是在车上度过的，她们除了醒来吃点东西就是睡，也没个聊天的。车过松潘和红军长征纪念碑来到了一处喇嘛寺。车上的游人都得下来参观，说是参观其实是导游想让我们买东西。蓝天白云下的寺庙很是雄伟，一面面的巾帆随风飘展。庙内的瑭闼做工精美，佛像庄严肃穆，真是一座好藏庙。我也跟着大家求了一条哈达保平安（需10元）。当地导游小姐非要拉着我去买玉佛（从百元到千元），说是可以请活佛给我灌顶开光，解释活佛刚好十一出关（活佛也放假？），过几天就又闭关，下次要等下个世纪了，来一次不容易。我说下次吧，可是没用。又过来一个男导游也来劝我。听他们说前几天有一辆伊威科中巴从黄龙掉下去了，死了个台湾人（这可能是真的，没人敢拿这事开玩笑），要我求一个保平安要么升官发财娶个好媳妇什么的。我心里知道怎么劝我都白搭，因为我带的钱不多还得回家呢。其实，大部分的游客都买了玉佛或香。可能他们看我背着nikon相机，怎么看也不象穷人，就一直追着我。我索性不走，得给他们上一课。我对他们说佛祖大概是不会为了人的一点个人私愿因为你捐了钱就为你办事消灾的。给佛上了钱反到让佛瞧不起你，嫌你放不下人的那点私欲，私心太强，层次低。以为有钱能使佛办事，佛是不会嫌贫爱富的。且保持寺院的庄严清净不是更好吗，非得卖东西赚钱？赚了钱最后还不是人用，佛只是你们赚钱的工具罢了，有钱捐希望工程不好吗，等等（这些纯属个人看法，不一定正确）。
他们见说不动我，就扭头走了。车继续往前开，天逐渐阴了，开始下大雨。我们的车在黑云中穿行。我从没离闪电这么近过，就在我们车旁，响雷一个接一个，盘山公路更加湿滑，雨点打得车窗啪啪作响。我开始有点后悔没求一个玉佛保平安了。车穿过云雾终于来到了离九寨沟不远的南坪，已是夜8：30。
南坪是一个距九寨沟口5公里的小镇。车停到一家旅馆，我们下车吃了饭。雨还是下个不停，我开始担心明天是否有好天气供我拍摄。
10。9进沟。
一觉起来发现雨已经停了，但天还是阴沉沉的毫无生气。我的心也沉下去。幸亏几个女孩还比较活泼。九寨沟的门票是我去过景点中最贵的，包括保险每人190元，但包括一晚上沟内住宿和全程的旅游车票（沟内备有免费环保中巴招手即停）。
我们把包放到旅馆后开始顺沟游玩。盆景滩-芦苇海-卧龙海-犀牛海-五花海-熊猫海。 .一直上到原始森林。景色怎么说呢，很不错。各海子景色决不相同，湖水清澈，绚丽夺目，倒映着雪山森林。可惜，沿沟铺设了公路，公车一趟趟开过，打破了幽谷的宁静。舒服是舒服，到那里都有车（那还不如在家看风光vcd，更舒服）。但我宁愿不坐车，而是徒步，涉水，漂流。比较起来，我更喜欢四姑娘山（虽然把我累的半死）。记得前一阵在电视上看过一篇报道，说四川和云南交界的泸沽湖（母系摩挲族），云南那边开发的很好，新建的旅馆又好又多，搞了很多花样，旅游收入很多。而四川这边路也不好，村子还是保持原始的样子，连电都没有，并提出要大力改造。把我看得直摇头，我要去就去四川的那边，人少，自然，民居古朴！
旅游的目的是什么，还不是想看点自然新鲜的。都把世外桃源改造成现代化城市，以后还有谁去？九寨沟也是这样，游人如粥车如水。沟内古老的藏族村寨被各种旅游纪念品摊淹没，再也看不到藏族同胞真诚的憨笑。同是藏族人，四姑娘山的热情好客，这的却都是猴精。当然，我不能在几个女孩面前表现出失望。还得笑着陪着她们逛那数也数不完的摊儿，而我只对藏刀感兴趣。
这里的藏刀大多数只是工艺品，我要的却是真正的藏民自己用的刀。一个藏族小伙子叫住了我，给我看他卖的工艺刀，看的我直摇头。无奈，小伙把我拉到一边，厚大的藏袍下银光一闪，手里多了一件东西，银壳银柄灿烂夺目。拔出刀来，尺许长的刀锋在阳光下泛着青光。果然是一把好刀。 “就这呀！”我却转身离去（这叫欲擒故纵）。
果然，小伙子叫住了我：“这是我们藏族自己用的刀，一天没开张了，便宜点120卖给你吧！”“可我兜里就60。”“你蒙谁呢！你来看。”小伙子不死心，随手拔出另一把工艺刀，用藏刀向工艺刀削去。说来也怪，就象削铅笔一样，工艺刀被削掉了一个大豁口，藏刀却没事。见我还是不满意，藏族小伙急了，见什么削什么，连铁的柜台也被他削掉一角。其实我心理极喜欢这把刀，但表面却很不耐烦。站在一边的群帮着打圆场：“就60吧，老板也不容易。”
离开藏族小伙子，我笑的嘴都合不上了。经我仔细检查，刀壳和刀柄确是藏银打造，且做工精美。刀锋是用做汽车车轴的材料打磨的，十分坚硬而又有韧性。回去可以切西瓜啦！
10。10离沟。
九寨沟给我的印象是杂乱无章的。一面是美丽的风景，另一面却是个大市场。天气还是阴着，没有生气。下午，我们准备离开九寨沟。广州女孩们的假期还长，打算顺道去"米亚罗"，一个比香山还大几倍的红叶风景区。我却不得不回去了。下午5点，我们四个还有一对夫妻同租了一辆小面包直奔古城松潘。山里的天气说变就变，不久就下起了大雪。雪打在车窗上啪啪做响，前方能见度很低，车不时绕过一个个塌方。路上结了一层薄冰，车开的很慢。
司机是个中年藏族人，却很能聊。从班阐聊到达赖，从红军长征聊到现在。分散了我们的注意力，使我们不再紧张。
夜8点，我们来到了松潘。还是在中学课本里读到过的这个城市，第一次亲眼看到，果然有古老的街道和城墙。可惜在夜间看不全。
明天就要真的分手了，我心理突然有种失落感。这10天的相聚使我们成为患难的朋友，虽然她们有时很麻烦，但我却喜欢上了她们。美丽自然的风光有时会把人心拉得很近的。可是，天下没有不散的宴席，而我又要从回孤独了。我们吃了一顿随后的晚餐。席间很少有人说话，我们都沉浸在这次旅途的回忆中。
饭后我们互相留了通讯地址，相约下次旅游再见。
10。11
早六点坐上开往成都的大客车，车过茂县，汶川，于下午3点回到了成都。
我背着大包径直来到华西宾馆。联系上徐，取几天前就拖他买的12号回北京的车票。徐是热心人，不到晚上就把车票送来了。并又要请我吃饭。
我们吃了麻辣火锅。我很不好意思，徐那么帮我我却。 . （要不是我钱快用光了的话）。我执意把我最喜爱的藏刀送给了徐，以谢他对我的照顾。看着徐爱不释手的样子我也很高兴。
Postscript:
到北京已经是三天后。一量体重，总共减了15斤（一天一斤），人也变得精壮。
2000年春节放假又和群，望，愠，益，徐他们相约游了湖南的凤凰城和张家界。
8.20号(今天）群和益他们要去西藏，走青藏线。当然,他们也约我同去，可惜我不能请那么长的假，只有祝福他们。并撰文以记之。
2000.8.20. 老杨于北京。
Author: dellren123
