Sichuan Tour - 29 years old my birthday
September 13, 2003 -21 days
Introduction chapter in Sichuan, heard the name, my mind had come back out of a roll of a beautiful picture. She has so many mysterious and beautiful masterpiece of ancient landscape, there are so many very interesting reading, full of praise for the natural geo-color ... ... readily looking through travel books, Internet travel sites to see in Sichuan, those endless beauty and tourist information are deeply attracted me. October 1 of this year will be my 29-year-old birthday, I intend to in a special way to commemorate the birthday of my 20s in the last one - to Sichuan Tour! Although time does not permit me swim in many places, as a mysterious and yearning for their first trip to Sichuan, I chose Guilaibukan water, Jiuzhaigou and Eastern Alps Siguniangshan. Is scheduled for September 13 ~ September 21, I used the past two years have accumulated mileage of the Eastern Airlines coupons hesitate to exchange a total of four of a round-trip airfare from Shanghai to Chengdu - my dream will be realized ! Itinerary is as follows:
September 13 in Shanghai to Chengdu, mobile
September 14 in Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou on the move
September 15 trench
September 16 trench
September 17 Jiuzhaigou to Japanese Long Zhen (Siguniangshan)
September 18 Shuangqiao Gou
September 19 Chang Ping Gou
September 20 to Chengdu on Long Zhen
September 21, Chengdu back to Shanghai a total of 9 days, the budget 2,500 yuan (ticket mileage coupons, free)
Pre-trip preparations for chapter 1 and a half months, I made a post Ctrip Internet, sourcing peer friends. But the results are truly implemented to respond to the atmosphere was very less (which is not now, people are more emotional?):) Very lucky that I did not like I imagined, as encountered in the worst case - a long journey alone, but encountered another three friends just left for the preparatory segment at this time, Jiuzhaigou and Siguniangshan. Our trip began three weeks before the contact and keep in touch with each other to exchange information and determine the travel arrangements, these have largely been implemented, each ticket also started preparations for the scheduled and luggage.
Taking into account first went to Sichuan, but some places belonging to the plateau, but also heard of altitude sickness and its symptoms and preventive measures, and my heart is true that some are not realistic, does not know whether the whole process a smooth play. Therefore, I have done on the pre-line relatively well prepared, the following is a list of my current bag of belongings, as well as the final observations:
Backpack: New to buy on high 50 liters (on either side pockets, side put one of my tripod)
Purse: New to buy on high (with a rope hanging around his neck) was very useful, ticket ID cards, coins, bank notes, tickets, etc. can be put.
Hiking shoes: New to buy on the level of help (high to help can be effective in preventing mountain sprained ankle), I am too hot we had to buy a high-help, the results of all right.
Jeans: 2,
Underwear: 5 sets of long-sleeved shirt: 3 (Prevention of ultraviolet sunburn arm)
Jacket: nylon jacket leisure thin windbreakers: Decathlon snow clothing (polar fleece removed by dissection), Siguniangshan Lane and crossing the Ba Langshan Yakou when absolutely necessary!
Health Products: cold medicine (useless upper), antidiarrheal medicine (not diarrhea), throat sugar (dry mouth and get angry very yong), Bondi paste (useless upper), eye drops (drops have been very comfortable), sunscreen (sun will not wipe molt!), lip balm (effective in preventing cleft lip)
Toiletries: toothbrush toothpaste (for oral hygiene), soap (a lot of cheap accommodation there is no decent soap), shampoo (wash hair every day in order to have full spirit!), Razor and shaving foam (men have a beard must be prepared), the entire flood (pictured to give their own can not be unkempt Oh), towels (own)
Fruit Knife: Swiss Army knife is best, at least a knife, can opener, scissors (the apple in many mountain regions of Sichuan is very sweet! We must remember that taste, the green is nothing Suanse!)
Sunglasses: If you have a good weather will know that the sun's powerful! Must remember to bring!
Watch: (preferably with a pneumatic altimeter watches, such as Casio adventure table, you can always pay attention to the height of his arrival, make a record, which will add a lot of the fun of travel)
Other: wet tissue paper (absolute useful, Jiuzhaigou road gray large towel facial very good), alcohol and cotton (supermarkets will sell a small package, 2 alcohol cotton balls a vacuum packaging, a box of like 10 small packages only a few dollars, is used to disinfect the bowls and chopsticks are not very good health! Health First Oh!)
Photographic Equipment: EOS30 + BP300 + EF70-200F4L, X-700 +24 mmF2.8
Film: Fuji PROVIA100F 4 volumes, Kodak ELITECHROME 5 volumes, volumes Kodak 1007, Kodak MAX400 4 Volume Telescope: View the mountains from afar to meet the curiosity of the best Dongdong; it appeared Airport Flight Information Tripod: Weifeng (proven This is the greatest failing of the trip and equipment), it is recommended: to bring on a shelf with a good (not necessarily large, but it must be good enough) Gitzo 1128,1127 very good! Perhaps because I use a small little white, there is no shelf simply will not work good point! It seems the shelf and pin circle is to think about this. Remember: either give up shooting water, or we can bring a tripod to work properly, or the shelf will give you days, a lot of trouble.
Camera bags: SAFRO, boxy very strong, full of equipment, let me post the above 17 kg backpack was the problem, very professional feeling.
Travel articles
September 13, Chengdu MU5403 Shanghai ?
Morning wake up to the day before the reorganization of good backpacks and camera bags were the last check, I feel there is no problem after set out. My house 20 minutes by taxi to Hongqiao Airport, unload luggage after check-in card to go. When by chance a few days, a few days ago, Ms. will sit in this flight to Chengdu, thus leaving a cell phone with me. My three friends rushed to the airport on time, we hit his head together after check-in formalities.
In order not to fly friends and those with little experience of flying friends, I put my check card experience has taught us. Remember, Do not rush! If this is easy to forgetful.
Check license, to confirm his identity card, air tickets. The best pre-storm rolling luggage (airport free of charge service). Backpack recommendations carry (as long as the first to queue when boarding the plane into the luggage compartment do not need to worry about), if it is too large to be checked, and remember: Be sure to minimize exposed outside of the backpack or hidden (baggage porters can not be love your bags, were thrown into the situation drag and throw the country is very common). The proposed re-equipped with a pocket or Bag, documents and air tickets, etc. can all be placed inside and easy to take place.
Purchase of the airport construction fee and then 50 yuan to enter the security gateway terminal. Queue waiting check, they can put the body pocket full of metal objects into a pocket or hang out bag, go back, watch and other metal objects. Strongly recommended to prevent the X-ray film placed in a special black belt (the photographic equipment stores have to sell Nissan lead coated the inside of a black layer), my pockets are safe to prevent the ISO800 can be put Volume 21, 135 bag box film. Although the film screening prompts for security, but in fact not the case. Sometimes the screeners in order to see objects in the bag to stop screening baggage conveyor belt at this time if you just film the package, then it X-rays 'sun' bar!
After security check, please re-confirm all of their documents, just remove the object, so as to avoid missing. Money can be divided into two storage, carry the amount of the budget with two days, the remaining additional storage.
To the Shuangliu Airport in Chengdu, we went straight to the airport together out of the airport bus stop, nice a bus stop at the terminal, we got on, after buying tickets, all tickets 10 yuan, end of Tianfu Square from the city center is about two Station Road Minshan. Airport bus driver a seat behind the two large luggage rack has been replaced, and there are big boxes where friends will be placed in bags. Bus speed is not slow, about 30 minutes into the Minshan. We have Minshan down a car the next day to Jiuzhaigou in order to ensure buy tickets, then by taxi to the new south gate terminal to buy tickets. The new South Gate terminal on the river is easy to recognize. The results we have purchased tickets, tickets 92 yuan, 2 yuan premium. Every day about 3 ~ 4 times a car on the grid (based on the date of ticket sales will adjust and start quantity). We also bought tickets online booking a taxi to a small view of Park Guest House (price 70 yuan / standard room, which in a wide alley - one with the characteristics of Sichuan residential street. The door has a courtyard on three sides room, the right hand side on the first floor is the check-in office, we have signed his name cleared after the turn into his own room. did not feel bound by the size of the room, but the comparison to the price of a new facility can not be considered. the house two bed, me and a fellow person with housing. It so happened that this time accompanied by friends on the Net also found a pair of couples, so that our team on the expansion to seven people (with another woman after a flight arrived in Chengdu, and we parted, and because there are other arrangements)! put away luggage washed my face, we would go out shopping. the evening we decided to eat hot pot for this joint trip to help add to the fun, we came to the famous Huangchenglaoma Qintai way hot pot restaurants. quite popular here, Wong, and But tell the truth here, the price is not cheap, having read the menu you will know. Do not for the menu on the unit price and the Qiexi hotpot ingredients, where the unit is: 50 grams, that is, 12! you eat meat will eat only a 2 do? so unknowingly up your bill on the president's! we had a total of eight individuals, to the two bottom of the pot, and some dishes and ordered two, so will pay for price of more than 300 yuan, must register each 40 less than Haicou He. fond Huangchenglaoma found out after we had been lighting illuminated Qintai Road, the street that pedestrians were more up. In order to proceed the next day, I am still going to buy some food and the need for goods, sat双层公交车to Tianfu Square near the department store and finally bought a ham and a bottle of rice pudding. a look at the small concept of time is not long back garden early rest.
September 14, Chengdu Jiuzhaigou ? long-distance bus 8:00 am in order to catch the new south gate terminal to issue long-distance car, and we get up at 6 am, after grooming, the whole point to confirm your ticket and luggage check-out time out of the small view of garden. A small garden in which a wide view of the alley there are many great features on both sides of the building it! Wide view of garden in a small home on the east, black wooden door inlaid with two buckles on the golden land, as well as bronze trim. Several Strains of trees on both sides of the door there it is very quiet and elegance. We boarded a taxi and his party arrived shortly after 7 new south gate terminal, to the only 7:20, we have not eat breakfast, so a small side street in the sought out a restaurant for breakfast. Wong seems quite popular here, and take the step up a few steps down the body we have a big backpack. I order a white-Tang Long抄手(1.50 / 2) 2 2 a total of 3 yuan, taste good. There are dan-dan noodles and other snacks. After eating we go along with the station. Near the station need for security checks, but also carry the baggage X-ray! For photographers like me who hate X-ray of the! So I wait my companions put the luggage on the conveyor belt to go forward when carrying a big bag, I walked past, did not sell one piece of baggage, the results of OK! After check-in we have to do to see the car - a white, Jiangsu Yaxing 29 passenger cars, recency 6-7 into a new bar! We are looking for larger backpack on the bus after the place where the luggage rack above the seats obviously does not fit, it can be put on the driver tells us that the last row, we walked over, you'll see that the last row of five seats, among them, one side The three seats were removed, and so the natural shape of a luggage storage space, I backpack on the corner of a relatively stable post-sat his seat, my seat is 17 (9-10,13 -- 14,17-18 depends on the direction of the left-hand dealers. on the bus after the pigeon-holing, no Pick of the rules. 8 o'clock start time of the.
Dealers soon Chu Liaocheng. In the high-speed before a gas station, the driver opened the car into the fuel, we get for the first time the 'relaxation' opportunity. On the high-speed less than 1 hour after they arrive at Dujiangyan, and then turn right and go to Jiuzhaigou's highway. 1 on the section of track, I found myself doing the wrong choice - Minjiang River in the direction of the right dealer! I sat on the left window to the location! Does it not mean that I want to watch a whole day next to the cliff? Really depressed ah! But, fortunately, did not let me down, but also driving more than an hour, we cross the bridge of the! Maybe I can see this side of the Minjiang River, and is very clear. The first time I felt the netizens write in your post 'rushing water of the Minjiang River,' it really is quite turbulent! I would like the Minjiang river bed of gravel at the bottom of a certain unavoidable large and small, because the river flows downstream at the time when the ups and downs like a roller coaster! Zhengda eyes watched the road for a moment, but also see the traces left behind by landslides during the rainy season, landslides on the slopes left behind after the 'evidence' faintly discernible. After the exposed ridge collapse can see out of very loose gravel might once again fall down at any time. I think it is caused geological structure of the mountain here easily produce heavy rainfall, when the collapse of earth and rock slide. With the construction of roads along the way while the winding hills ahead. Indeed, the driver should not be underestimated the level of master, turn left, turn right everywhere seem casual, they are actually on this road opened several years of experience results. But first take this car, you really should be able to adapt quickly, or else it will be scary for a while! Hee hee, because they are not sharp turn in front of a place or no place for little cars brakes, a-meng Shui might send you scare Yida Tiao! Perhaps it is because of the special roads in Sichuan and the frequent traffic accidents, I often open mountain is still a lot of experience of local drivers, even in the two vehicles meet half way out of date, but also totally unnecessary whistles and yelling. (But tell the truth, for the first time the friends who came to Sichuan, travel or sleep on the train! Sight of mind Bai! Hee hee) around 12:30 pm after noon, the driver stopped the car in a hotel (Maoxian Hotel) the door (said to be hotels, in fact, slightly larger in rural areas and farmers in the room next to the highway restaurant) we are here for lunch. Perhaps this generation is a model of rice to eat road - to go to the kitchen to take food at select their favorite dishes, which people will tell you how much this dish (meat dish ranging from 7-15 yuan, and vegetables 4-10 ranging from 1 yuan), people eat can also eat a lot less expensive dishes (in fact, that is, in general, but the Deli, and some not as good as, but the way the feeling is not the same meal, after all, this is the Sichuan Province, thousands of miles away ah!) We have already lost count on something, but seemed to have a twice-cooked pork and beef stewed potatoes, there are one or two vegetables and a bowl of soup. Where the rice is very special, it seems very light and there is no sticky, with a bowl of spoon Sheng you will find a grain of rice is an easy and capsules fall to eat mouth feel unhappy, and dry with no flavor of rice, not know that because there is no boiling water, or other reasons. The food there was generally more salty, while the soup, but as water, do not know where the 'feature'? Finished on the toilet (that is, one in Shanghai do not see a simple latrine! Foul-smelling, but most of these toilets also sat a fee!) Hotel next to the still used to sell fruit, and where a lot of apples are green, good to eat, very sweet. On the bus to continue to open. Estimated stack Hai Zi at the car began to climb, the weather was good, blossoming white clouds floating in the Sichuan highlands of the blue sky, the mountains and hills set off even more beautiful. In the winding mountain road there was a side of the Great Lakes, the green is very eye-catching. That is a stacked Haizi, during which both sides of the road near the parking lot to eat and to the vehicle watering (because of the relationship between the mountain, car brake frequent brake is easy to produce heat, so need to be cool in order to prevent not brake cars), There are Tibetans to pull out of camera pictures of white yak in it! Of course, those who are to pay for啦! We have a small shop parking entrance (see and long-distance truck driver that has a relationship) a small boy to the bus body wash watering, passengers were also called to the curb by this opportunity to place pictures pictures of stacked Haizi, this time from the roads around the lake there are two or three hundred meters of height difference. Soon we are climbing on the bus for some estimates on the whole the highest sections. I sat in the car on the left you can see very beautiful scenery, this is my choice Caidui I have no complaints! Estimated vehicle also has the highest winding San Siqian m, as we reach the terminal, said after the incident, several people say that when a little headache, but altitude sickness is a representation of a headache. Car is also still Raozhao Zou, sun rays are very translucent, stuck your head out to enjoy, the cool autumn wind blowing enjoy the winding paths of the mountain and distant mountains, is really very pleasant to enjoy ah! Recommended at this time to bring sun glasses, enjoy enjoy! Do not patronize those who look forward side, sometimes to the dealers to see if the rear will find a lot of beautiful scenery Oh! Hee hee. After a period of basically can not afford to hang my appetite, and coupled with easy to eat three square meals drowsy, so I called nap. More than half of the afternoon, he drove to the emergence of a high-quality asphalt pavement, very smooth, as good roads and highways. (In fact, this road is also close to forty to fifty kilometers or so) on both sides of the mountains and are not the same as before, even more open, and as in a high-slope to see distant mountains, roadside grassland scenery is also beautiful Oh, do not fight sleepy! This section of the road will be encountered in the high mountains of the difference between the zigzag mountain road, on both sides of the trees and vegetation is very rich and beautiful, you can feel the slightest taste of the scenic area! 19:00 bus finally came to the long-awaited Jiuzhaigou! (The first passenger car conductor here introduce the roadside hotels and facilities, I light became curious and actually missed the first thing to see what Mizoguchi Jiuzhaigou like that!) We are the bottom of the car finally Mizoguchi about 600 m traffic restaurant parking lot end of the day bumps and exciting journey. Jiuzhaigou is the parking lot side of the passenger transportation center of the ticket (remember: there are also selling tickets Jiuzhaigou County, in the passenger terminal, the Department may from time to center on the train passenger in Jiuzhaigou, but 40 km away, with particular attention Oh!) Night, we have Mizoguchi moved into about one kilometer beneath the Kyushu Grand Hotel (Do not look at the name of bluffing, in fact, that is similar to a private open-end accommodation Hostels) This is a peer in a previous online booking to the per standard rooms 80. The price of the hotel most of this: the supply of hot water from time to time is usually 78 points to 10 o'clock at night, so a living room, then three must seize the time! Room Well so-so, the basic standard room facilities for both, but the room is inside the containers, and other toiletries is best to use their own, what kind of dirty teacups were terrible! Fingerprints and water-soaking and more scared to death you! We unloaded luggage months after the washing of the face of the Shu Shu tibia decided to go for dinner, this time about half-past eight the. Our personal taxi line 7 (where the taxi because the roads are being Mizoguchi, while the bottom has been paved to Mizoguchi Mizoguchi, from a section of, but the other half have not yet laid out so that the paragraph on the stirring up of dust so that You suffocation! taxi body is incredibly dirty) 5 yuan 1 km, after the price jump, and several people would not share anything. Let us first come to Mizoguchi Mai Menpiao. Mizoguchi came because the sky was dark, but still vaguely be able to see Mizoguchi mountains and large door next to the dazzling piece of electronic bulletin board (really a bit neither fish nor fowl). Ticket prices are like this: first into the groove 145 yuan, 90 yuan a day ticket, the second into the groove 40 yuan (you can buy a ticket before the next day into the ditch, FIT ticket window, about 5-6 months, the team purchased ticket window there are about 6 or so, ticket sales are basically not to worry, but the attitude of the staff and automated ticket system is relatively satisfactory. Mizoguchi bought tickets to join us to the top (this band open hostels and small shops are more , and also more concentrated) we saw a restaurant down the street (the street where the restaurants are dirty and can not be optimistic about the health situation) because it is collective action I had to sacrifice some freedom, to accompany them to eat. a few more exciting companions as soon as point of the highland barley wine, came, looked a bit like a wine there is precipitation, I do not drink, because I am not good to drink. a point of 78 dishes, the taste in general, because the cars were made the day hungry, so ordinary the food we eat very fragrant. finished we take a look and then walk back to residence.
Mizoguchi area has a lot of hotels and guesthouses, there is no star accommodation can provide standard room (of course, and star in a standard room service, there are still considerable differences), the price of 80-120 yuan.
September 15-day legend of the trench because there is hope in the mirror early in the morning went to shoot the sea, Qi Dezao early, 6 am to climb up. Although it is still September, but the mouth of Jiuzhaigou am still very cold, so do not ignore the early morning temperatures probably early teen degrees, still need to put on coat. Because we party a few of them want to try stay in the groove (although there are a lot of intelligence revealed that the trench to prevent accommodation), so we stay on the date of the actual situation according to their own arranged. 7 am to Mizoguchi, several friends carrying 70 liters of the big package that we must move forward with ease because as Mizoguchi took the case to send packets. Many friends do not know if there is send packets at Mizoguchi, in fact, on that ticket next to the mall away from the side door Mizoguchi, 10 yuan per day (two large storage bag can work together, but must also take packages, This can be considered an item, you can save money!) that they send a few packets spent a lot of time, I worry that soon immediate concern large team of people will have to break mirror calm sea surface, so I told them I advanced ditch, and The same is true in fact be able to end the freely without interference. (Severe Note: When we go to the trench is said that because roads, thus resulting in a groove of telecommunications towers are not working, so ditch no mobile phone signal! Simply can not be contacted! So, do not go 10 million people scattered for a long time! My strong Recommendation: We qualified with a good radio, very useful, 3 km on the list, of course, high-end point would be much better sound quality, then I will buy the critical moment, you know! such as separated, or distress of the time) groove I automated fare collection system, looks like a subway station. Into the ditch, there are many buses waiting at the CMB and a large parking lot. Of course, these buses are the Jiuzhaigou management center, car, private car there is no way into the ditch. I have an order on the CMB into the ditch. The morning of the cars into a road ditch: direct into the jungle, and tourists to the direction of Snow Day Long strolls. I told the driver please send me on the mirror the sea, they seemed to wonder: how back to mid-off? In fact, the whole fun in this good-looking get off on the midway! I am out of the car, the CMB would then look inside to go. I saw the sea surface mirror and the mirror is really like Jing De! At the time, the sky had been bright, but because the mirror Haidong 4 and south have a mountain, ridge, like a barrier blocking the flow of the wind, so calm outside mirror Haig. I had a tripod (a showy but useless Weifeng, since brought can not do without ah! However, to blame have to blame myself, Who I Dai Lege did not mount a small little white feet do! I have taken the time , there are a few more behind you drive all the way to open after the soil road unfurling a lot of dust, is really very unpleasant. I originally thought that the distance fog in it, a look at it carefully to understand how the matter ! shot a few, I felt not as good as I imagined. (I think many of my friends say why making a bad 'culprit' is the photographer, the Jiuzhaigou tianxiang to shoot absolutely stunning, and later those who have no room to play , and how film not as good as the beautiful pictures on the transparency!) and then I carrying 50 liters of my backpack and photo-strap backpacks and tripods to continue to walk up. come to mirror the sea to see a bifurcation point of the road, down is a mirror sea station, I have thus embarked on Plank Road. Plank Road is a major part of the wood by a more solid composition, full of basic defect is not found at large in the case, in order to slip, Plank Road on the surface of the red nailed metal mesh, so be sure to wear non-slip shoes, do not wear shoes, or will soon give you a lesson! climbing shoes the best!) tired of the slow and stop wrestling, or skin abrasions in the metal surface can be online is not fun, so self-Bondi, and gauze is necessary) I would also like to shoot some mirror the sea, So I decided to go for a while back now, from my mirror at first shot across the sea, they shoot a bit. Then I walked upstream, this time for almost 9 o'clock, the sun is from the mountains highest point stuck his head into the beautiful sunshine Saxiang Jiuzhaigou ... ... When I embarked on the upper reaches of the time saw the rise of a hill sharp fall on the moon just to the mountain top, I lifted the camera is 'shot'. At this time the sun increased the degree of the mountains a thorough eye, color and more showy. Plank Road on both sides at this time no one, I was the only one to enjoy the quiet beauty of the morning, birds singing in a free mountain forests, springs flowing in a jubilant manner. This feeling is the city's bar than in a few hours, a good soak too much, I am really sympathetic and sorry for those people in a busy city, ha ha! Breathe in the morning side of Jiuzhaigou forest stream of fresh air, I guarantee that everyone will be like for this wonderland to have such a cozy place to enjoy while intoxicated, I am greedy in doing deep breath and wait for them to be able to suck Gebao the future no longer have to breathe dirty air of the city! Ho ho. Continue to go up, then started on the hill, and soon to the Pearl Beach is really the so-called first heard and not seen falls ah - Pearl Beach, large and small waterfall a row about a 100 meters wide, although a small part of the beginning of King, but enough to ruminate for a long time, slowly strolling in the wood was wet from time to time falls on the exceptionally large in easy and enjoyable! Or is it because I went the opposite route and ordinary people, so also here, after three or four, I have a good tripod Ann Xinxin frame (again that showy but useless guy!, But somehow also used emergency) took a few photos of flowing water and waterfalls, of course, do not forget to give themselves a few self-photographed啦! Continue to walk pay attention to: the front will encounter a large waterfall, and waterfall as the wind will be taken off a number of water droplets! Your camera, if not then they would take good care of EOS1V啦! I have a secret weapon, the water vapor good results! Value: 0元! - A hotel to take a shower cap, ha ha! We all know that the bar! Walking see, the shower cap in the body and the lens cover is basically no problem, there are good views of the time, like the U.S. cowboy Westerns, like a good idea now and then 'drew a is a Kacha' crisp Earned dripping ! :) Then Do not proud of you forgot to wear a shower cap ah! Of course, sets the machine body, not your head, unless your hair easier to damp long-haired, hee hee:) I shoot a lot, because in the morning, where the sun is preserved, local water droplets is very beautiful! Spray white white, very bright, there is not suitable frame tripod, because I saw some people already down from above, probably the first bar into the groove of the Waiting List! At this point of time about 10 o'clock, but still relatively cool in the mountain forests, but because my back 50 liters of luggage or packages, and camera bags had almost 25 kilograms, so the speed is not fast uphill. From Pearl Beach Pearl Beach attractions to the next one is on the mountain, along the Plank Road carrying a package, I walk very tired, but very interesting, you can enjoy a backpacker trip hard work and therefore access to feelings of happiness, it can be disco in the city are not obtained. Large and small pearl-strewn beaches are located in large in the side, you can take the time to find the right point of view, coupled with your polarizer, you can shoot a lot of sparkling water features unique to the Jiuzhaigou! Pearl Beach opposite the trees, you can hear the tour and continued to bring visitors into the deep ditch the roar (which I also very unhappy! Mention of a green tourist car, in fact, nothing of the sort! Now ditch inside the car there were probably nearly a hundred large and small cars, buses + CMB, I do not see that they are using a gas composition, it seems basically diesel or gasoline, I saw black smoke car Oh! I Jiuzhaigou feel that the growing threat from the visitors, although season ticket sales per day to reach more than two million, but I think the depreciation of Jiuzhaigou beauty far more than the daily level of more than 2 million ah! I strongly recommend that, in order to the world heritage, do we love to visit and tour, even though I should seal off the conservation idea to let the Jiuzhaigou often年接待游客have their own time to breathe a breath, and now the development of really very horrible, hope every one of us who have been to recognize the importance of the environment, their efforts to each a little great - I do not discard any Jiuzhaigou something, napkins, chewing gum, beverage bottles, film boxes, etc., even at noon to eat sausage packaging Bag I are into a backpack, that when there designated waste and garbage stations that I kiss goodbye. Therefore 'In addition to good memories and photos, please do not take away, and leave other things bar!') continues to keep pace will encounter a large number of tourists flock from the top down (of course not the speed, but the density) This is your next break in the Plank Road, Pearl Beach, I found a corner of a wooden chair, can sit two or three people, I remove the pack while here to enjoy the scenery while eating a point of dry food to add water to replenish their energy. Beyond it, you'll constantly encounter flow, but this you will not see any emotion scenery, so you only targeted climb. Road is, as long as careful not to fall at large in the foot like, because the next are the stones, Plank Road in some places a little distance from the slopes of dangerous, especially to see the larger streams where a lot of people will stop frenzied Then the road will be blocked, we must beware Oh! By Wu Huahai, you can see some scenes, where containment was packed by tourists, because there is convergence and the presence of visitors may take the longest attractions, Wu Huahai perhaps the most beautiful trench Haizi, color Colorful, such as amber, the underwater rot tree Che natural surface fundus. Height ranging from tree across the lake, lake translucent reflective and color so that all visitors are surprised - really have such a beautiful world, ah! Wu Huahai the area I am not sure about the size of two football pitches bar! May be greater, the color really very good-looking, I also encountered a few ducks in the lake, playing play school of natural, fresh feeling really ah! Porting the rotation, said not much shooting up the camera composition. The lake seems to have heard that is like a crocodile's deadwood to shoot a few. Due to the weather, sunny, sunny, it felt a little tingling (in fact, you're really receiving UV-pui roast! Quickly rounded edges to wear your hat or a good wiping sunscreen SPF35 about it, or else you'll come back and make pills of immortality furnace Lane crawl out of the Monkey King is almost due, hee hee) Wu Huahai side of the hill there is a relatively flat, where there are many wild flowers, shrubs than there are clumps, the background is the mountains and the blue sky, here walk a few steps to the slopes you can shoot a few good pictures of it! Perhaps I brought more conspicuous carrying a backpack and camera bags, but also carrying his small little white, so there are as many 10 to everyone and took up 'copy' of my view! I do not care they are unafraid to go down a good shot, an old mother asked me to help her by one, I naturally embrace啦! In fact, that kind of environment, you do not want will be willing and natural charm that is irresistible, ah, He He. The use of used to SLR cameras, not even the mother's 'little fool' short-lived fad did not react, really sorry, old mother would always ask myself: loss you or 'professional' in it! Even the camera will not be so simple to use! Just a joke, she used appears to be a Chinese-made machines, they will remember to buy good press in Figure 1, the old mother to thank, after I continue to walk. Xiongmao Hai is my foot up from the sea mirrors walk straight ahead to the end. Xiong Maohai probably arrived in the afternoon when more than 1 point, and I leaned Xiongmao Hai side of the structure of water in the air corridor to eat lunch: ham sausage + biscuits and drinks (a big mistake to eat biscuits, easy to feel dry mouth, it should be with just facial Or rather soft, a little food to fill his stomach) surface of the lake where you can find evidence of pollution, I can see the lake on the lake have similar traces of oil floating objects, is really worried for the fate of Jiuzhaigou ah! Xiongmao Hai is a lake, colors, essentially blue-green, relatively simple, but this time was extremely weak and in need of rest, so decided not to walk up the (this decision is sensible, because the spots after the far distance), I got on the road. To be honest, it is not when the road is the dirt road. Because there are more mountain like calcium, you can see mountains in vivo is not very loose, landslides can imagine the possibility of landslides, so here is the event of rain on the mountain slippery mud, and one to the sunny day on the sky dust and sand, can not be blocked. Made on the trip past the ditch at the end of virgin forest tourist car, found no seats, but if I suddenly become the focus, because almost no portrait I am back two large packages. Prior to the primeval forest, as well as narrator describes the scene inside the street and so on.其中有这么一段：八十年代中期九寨沟箭竹海因为箭竹生命周期的原因发生大面积箭竹开花，导致栖息在此处附近的大熊猫的食物源受到了巨大的威胁（我记得小时候好像还集资捐钱，就是为了给大熊猫买竹子吃呢），大熊猫不得已迁徙到它处去了，所以本来沟内的熊猫馆变成了现在的森林防灾预警监视基地了。车行到终点，我下了车，车上好像是一帮旅游团的人，我放心了，因为旅游团没有自由，必须跟着导游走，所以我自信我可以甩掉他们自己好好欣赏，呵呵。果然，我第一个走到前面来到了一个平台上，这里可以看到周围的群山和树木，天气此时也分外晴好，我立刻拿出相机在周围长吊近拉来了好多张。这里的海拔刚好3000米，所以如果身体不适的话就不要马上运动，坐下来休息为好。我是一点也没觉得什么，只是背着重物走路比较累，喘气是肯定的。原始森林有人说不好玩，我倒觉得对于爱好摄影的人来说，到时相反。原始森林虽然只是一个人为开辟的一个角落，但是仔细观看还真能发现不少有趣的景色呢！比方说树干上长出来的苔藓和小植物，用逆光拍摄可以获得很不错的照片。我进原始森林时大概已经是2点多了，游客已基本去了诺日朗游客中心吃饭去了，所以现在这里就只有我和那个不知道在哪里的旅游团了。我走进原始森林，沿着栈道一直可以走到一个休息平台，木制的，旁边有一块纪念碑，可供留影。原始森林的树木的确挺拔而高大，笔直的直指蓝天！在这里喊两嗓子可以帮助减少压抑感呢！树下的土壤也很松软，可以想象地下蕴含了丰富的水分。转了一圈已感疲乏，但是时间还早，要知道四川这边的实际时间感觉比上海的时间大概晚1.5个小时，所以太阳下山比较晚，基本上这个季节七点半还是比较光亮的。我于是决定走下两站后出沟，即走过芳草海后在天鹅海搭回程车出沟。一路走下来也有许多景色，尽管是沿着公路走，但是因为这一段公路旁的植被好，塌方几乎没有，所以水泥路上即使有车路过，尘土扬沙的情况要好很多，尽管拍吧！我边走边拍，宁静的山谷中为我独行，听着溪水潺潺的声音，步履也变得轻松，疲劳很快得到释放，你会觉得这是多么好的享受啊！我如同山中的娃儿仰望蓝天，呼吸森林里飘来的空气，沐浴着高山的阳光，这一切都令我陶醉啊！时不时的你可以看到一些鸟儿（抱歉叫不出名字）掠过幽静而欢快的湖面，给宁静的景色带来些许灵动的感觉。偶尔有观光车路过，但车上人已很少了（下午许多观光车都往九寨沟的另一条沟：则查沟的长海方向开去）。我来到天鹅海车站后近下午4点半，决定出沟结束行程。上了一趟出沟的观光车，车上仅四五人，此时坐上车座才感到自己是格外的疲劳。座位非常非常的灰，是我到现在遇到最尘土的车座，一拳击打座位，只见'云雾缭绕，凌空跃起'，令你无奈地苦笑。路过五花海时发现了另一番景致，巨大的彩色水盆跃入眼帘，真是漂亮啊！因为公路途经五花海时，真好地处五花海的上方，所以俯视可以完全收纳眼中，这时是完全和起初步行穿过五花海不同的景色。如果你愿意，可以在这里下车留影，希望现在的路况好许多。路上不多说了，累得我现在也写不出什么了，我想许多游客至此已经非常疲劳了，带着一天的疲劳和兴奋的心情，我出了沟。
由于起先几个同行的朋友说好可能在沟内留宿（事实上，由于九寨沟管理局的得当疏导和管理，已经不允许沟内留宿，下午5时过后凡是发现有游客在沟内'游荡'，都会劝他出沟，除非你拿得出具有说服力的理由。比方说约好了的朋友还没有见到啦等等，我可没有教唆哦，不要学哦。），所以当日沟口的住宿没有订，这回我就要为住哪里发愁了，背着大包转了一圈问了好几家，不是价格贵了，就是已经住满。上了一辆出租车正在犯愁时说到此事，司机说他的舅舅开饭店，于是去打听。饭店叫锦湘，在沟口下方大约700米。打听结果：有个标间打折后给180元，不能再便宜了，于是要了。时近7点多，觉得饿了，就在饭店餐厅用餐。这里接待的几乎没有散客，遇到我这么一位，打出是跑出来说，一个人点菜不划算，不如让他给我配点菜，荤素搭配来个小炒，一共收30元。我想反正起那几天大家共享资源时也剩下一些预算余额，就当是中途加油吧！于是我同意了，结果很快大师傅就端出一盘菜，炒豆芽和青椒肉丝，这青椒可真绿啊，比我前几天吃得都好多了！我还是喜欢家常菜，太好了，食欲大振，让上饭。饭来了，差点下我一跳：一个小饭缸！我从小到大个头不小，可饭量没有见长，几乎一碗饭主义。现在面前足足有一斤饭呢！我说吃不了，大师傅听客气连说，吃不了没关系。我想还应该有个汤吧，结果又上了两个菜——一盘什么肉来着，还有一个蔬菜，非常可口。为一缺憾就是量太多！对于我这个环保主义者来说，真是痛心，可又力不从心。爽饭之后连连告诉店员，不是菜不好，实在是自己的为容量不够大，没有充分'报答'大师傅的好意。这一餐可以说是我全程当中经典的一餐，最棒！此时一个朋友打电话说也出沟，就让他来我这里留宿。结果分摊一半，饭钱回来了。当日游程完毕。
9月16日全天沟内在确认二次进沟的票子可以在第二天进沟时购买后，我们就没有赶着在前一天晚上去买票。早上大概7点半来到沟口，已经人山人海，响彻山谷了。远远望去人脑袋上都是红红绿绿蓝蓝黄黄的，甭问：旅游团！我们来到售票处，居然马上可以买到票，人很少！也许导游们都在前一天买好了票，当日都不买票了吧！二次进沟票是需要在你买第一次票时进行确认的。确认方式：数码照片！第一天就要提出二次进沟，这样在柜台就会有工作人员为你拍照留档，如果第二天没有买二次进沟票，隔天就把照片删除。二次进沟优惠门票的资格就是以照片档案为准的，所以记得要拍照片哦，拍照不用花钱的。那天早上我们要求二次进沟后，他们居然没有了档案照片，幸好前一天帮我们拍照的工作人员还记得我们两个（记忆力真好！），所以再为我们拍了一张立刻打印到了二次进沟的门票上面了。我们付了40元二次进沟门票钱后离开了。今天不打算背大包了，真的是很累，而且今天要走进沟，所以14公里路背着20公斤可不是好玩的。我们在沟口那个商场寄了包后，我就带了一个摄影包和三脚架另外买了点路上充饥和解乏的小吃——锅巴！别看这玩意儿还真好吃，2块钱一袋的挺解馋，呵呵。进沟后我们沿着左边的栈道标记上了栈道，一上路就走进了树丛中，另一侧就是尘土飞扬的公路，不过当日好像重视尘土漂浮的情况，陆续有消防车在公路上撒水，这倒是缓减了不少。
驮着我的单肩摄影包（没办法，因为已经有了50升背包，所以没有办法再带双肩的摄影包了，这也许是许多背包摄影爱好者心中永远的痛吧！除非升级成为职业摄影师，有打杂的帮着提包，自己就掏出望远镜慢慢观察地形，尽情拍摄就是了。）真得比较沉，我左右换肩以减轻肌肉的负担。不过时不时有很多海子从树丛中显现。记得我们走了好一段才到了扎如寺，可是我好像不记得看到什么寺宇啊！也许我错过了？我们当日的计划是：步行到诺日朗，然后坐车去长海，然后回来出沟。这样两天三条沟彻底玩遍！也许是进沟后走的树正寨很长，14公里，我在写游记的时候许多情景我已经忘了先后次序，反正我是走走停停，边看边和同伴聊天，所以时间很快过去了，也不像想象当中的那么累。我记得（可能是）盆景滩不到的地方有一条笔直的栈道，走到那边时，早上的阳光还没有越过山脊（不过也很快要越过了）在那里是个容易拍些值得纪念的照片的，栈道两侧都是草地，中间有不少野花，虽然不如植物园中的娇艳妩媚，但也独具大自然生命力的力量和吸引力，相信喜欢摄影的朋友也一定不会错过的。接着往前走好像就到了第一个村寨：荷叶寨了（沟内现有三处集中的藏民村寨，往沟里走依次是荷叶寨，树正寨（最大）和则查洼寨）藏民村寨的人文照片我就不拍了，因为我觉得不如西藏的藏民来的经典吧，这纯属个人偏见，不要怪罪哦。栈道到此断了一截，变成了石块道路，有很多大石块铺成的道路蜿蜒前行。此时早晨的阳光掠过了山脊洒向大草地，如同动画中的色彩而富有动感！我注意到不远处有一排木栅栏，旁边还独自站着一棵树木，阳光照亮了树叶，显得树叶那么透明清澈，勃勃生机真的鲜活生动！在这里我拍了几张，喜欢捉摸构图的朋友可以多多联系哦。走过木栅栏就上了往后的栈道进入到盆景滩了。溪水的流淌声贯彻耳际，相信早晨能够在阳光，山水中听到这样动听的声音，能够使你一天的心情好许多。盆景滩的小瀑布（其实也就是从几十厘米到几米的小落差）还是蛮有特色的，气势上虽然不如大瀑布的豪壮澎湃，但是别有文雅秀丽的姿色，如同江南女子的仪容——略带羞涩而甜美：）走过盆景滩就快到芦苇海了。说是说很快，其实树正寨有许多景点之间的距离还是比较远的。现在写起来是一下子就过去了，可是当时有许多地方走了很久，中途可以走走停停，基本上每到一个木屋休息站都要坐一会儿休息一下，喝点水吹吹风的。实践证明这样的路线非常的好，大部队都进沟了，而九十点钟已经很少有游客如沟，此时我们正享受着树正寨安静而多彩的景色，这实在是九寨沟之行最好的回报啊！记得来到芦苇海，的确看到许多芦苇（我猜当初不是因为像前一天进沟时导游说的那样是个奇迹，因为在如此高海拔有芦苇是很少见的。我认为有哪个好事者当初扔了一把芦苇籽进去才变成现在这样的！哈哈）上午的阳光和栈道都在芦苇的同侧，所以顺光拍不到芦苇海中芦苇那绒毛透明般的感觉，于是就继续走，好像也没有拍。路途上几次掏出我的锅巴咔嚓咔嚓咬起来，把我的同伴吓一跳，以为是蛇从哪里钻出来要咬人呢！不过真得觉得啃锅巴的感觉很好呢！大家有兴趣再替我啃一回吧，哈哈！不过记住我以前说的：不要留下或带走出了照片和美好回忆的其他东西哦，垃圾还是要定点投入废物箱。太阳已经爬高了，时间也快逼近中午了，我们走了一半多了，还是很少有人跟我们打照面，我想很少有人有我们那种精神和毅力走完树正寨的，毕竟14公里不是平地，而是许多曲曲弯弯上上下下的栈道啊！要走完必须要有思想准备，鞋是关键！闲话少说，继续走。卧龙海比较平实，几棵朽木插在湖中，湖水也是湛蓝的如同小时候画水彩画时洗毛笔的水缸——蓝的跟假的一样！我估计里面的是不是含有硫酸铜的成分，记得高中化学看颜色区别化学物质当中就有，当然本人化学成绩奇糟，因此即使不是色盲答错题目也不是什么稀罕事！ Hee hee.这里你可以选取几个角度拍拍特写，那蓝色的湖面当作背景，拍摄树叶或者树丛中的红色小果树的照片，尽可能把画面搞得干净些，照片是最好的证明，我的几张就是最好的证明！说到这里我有个强烈强烈的建议：九寨沟全程用反转片！只要你是用单反相机或者是高级的便携相机如：康泰克斯T3或者理光GR1或者美能达TC1，就一定记得要拍反转片！许多人说九寨沟的照片拍不好，看看画册上的照片都说好，可就是自己拍不好。反转片的色彩和感染力可以是负片的好多倍！从你看到冲印出的反转片时眉毛挑起的高度和眼睛睁大系数就可以证明了！ ：）树正瀑布、犀牛海也可以拍到不少的照片，千万不要光顾着盯着大山、大水大场面，一些小景也很值得拍摄的，比如说小草，小花，以他们为前景用仰角，再把蓝天和高山作为背景，聚焦在小花上可以拍到一些好玩的插图照片哦，大家试一试吧！
下午2点半我们走到了诺日朗。这里说一句，原先看九寨沟风景介绍时对诺日朗瀑布非常敬重，因为是跨度最大的钙化瀑布。今天一看，我连举相机取个景的兴趣都没有，可以说是失望之至。因为时值下午，你对着诺日朗看的时候是逆光，眼睛已经很难睁开了别说欣赏了。诺日朗在公路的西侧，而所谓的观景台设在公路的另一侧，记东侧。所以登上观景台看诺日朗非得上午在比较好看，背光真的没有一点看头！何况下面还有经过的观光车扬起的尘土！我们在诺日朗的餐厅旁的草地上休息了半个多小时，这次可真的是走累了呢！诺日朗的餐厅是个'宏伟'的建筑，在大山中间居然造了个玻璃幕墙的4层高的建筑，也不知道是谁设计的，毫无和九寨沟协调和睦相容的感觉。据说里面的用餐费用也不便宜呢。我反正是没有进去。同伴说他前一天已去过长海了，说不值得去看，因为除了长海几乎没有别的，何况长海也就是个大海子。我想，既然来了，即使不值得看，总还是去一趟吧！谁知道哪年哪月才能再到此一游呢？于是我上了开往海子的观光车（注：因为我没有买车票，所以心虚。但是我研究过心理，所以即使心虚，但是我还是表现得比买了票还自然！）上车没有查票，我一路坐到底，真是感到开头走路的艰辛啊！这一段基本上只能随车看看而已，要下车拍什么好照片是不值得的，途中的上下季节海周围施工迹象非常明显，我嘀咕：管理局方面怎么如此乱来啊！挺好的风景被临时帐篷和工程车占用，而且不讲究有效利用率！真是痛心疾首，希望不要到哪天，照片上的九寨沟已经成为人们回忆中的东西啊！跺脚中……车到长海，下车。对着周围的群山扫了一遍，发现也有不错的景色哦！不要光顾着跟着人群走，而视线呆滞喽！ Hee hee.到长海大概已经3点半到4点左右了。但是阳光还是格外的好，尽管多了些浮云。长海的却够大，在里面游泳是不可能的，也许有水底怪兽！ Hehe.出了名的那颗枯木还立在那里，不管怎样也依样画瓢来一张。随后在靠近水边拍了些特写，把小小白放到长焦段可以发现一些画面的。从长海去搭车就要走下一站，不长，也就是一段下山的路。路上别只顾着下山，有时候抬头看看你也能收获不少呢！透过山林中的树叶空档，你可以看到远方的高山，临近秋天的树叶也渐渐泛黄了，色彩虽然没有深秋的浓艳，也略带上了几分秋意。往下走可以到五彩池，这里的池子不大，也就两三个篮球场那么大，但是水够清澈。湖面上漂着泛黄的枯叶，借助下午阳光的斜刺穿透，色彩的对比十分好看，难怪游客纷纷举起相机在此留念。湖边是一道栈道和扶栏，走过后再跨过一道天桥就到车站了，这里排队上车后就直奔沟口了。车过诺日朗后的许多景点车站发现这里聚集着很多游客。这些游客正是上午游玩日则沟或者则查沟的游客下午步行游览树正购的。特别是树正寨，人多的大概要十五到二十辆大巴车才可以送完！可见下午要是你去步行树正寨是怎样一道风景啊！
很快出沟了，我铁定第二天去日隆镇（四姑娘山）的，所以我和朋友取得联络后一同去交通饭店旁的九寨沟客运中心买了第二天到都江堰的票。那里去日隆只能搭乘回成都的车，中途下车就是了。不过要记住，车票价格看你到哪里下车。我们是想在映秀下车包车的，但是可能当时表达得不清楚，我们拿到的票时到都江堰的，也就是映秀的下一站，83元。 （后来遇到失散的朋友，一打听他们的票到映秀73元——我们多花了10块冤枉钱！）我们失散的朋友短信告知已出沟，于是碰头。他们中的有人想去黄龙，正商讨如何去，等我们赶到约定好像还在谈包车价格。我是不愿跟他们去黄龙的，因为黄龙虽然是世界遗产，但是我个人认为名不副实。后来他们也没有订下来，就决定大家先吃饭了。我们不打算住九州大酒店了，因此到沟口上方寻找。结果住在沟口不远处（好像被告知200米，可实际上走了大概500-600米，那里的人没有距离概念！）也算便宜：70元一间房间，有卫生间。扔下东西洗个脸一致决定：吃饭！在楼下的酒家点菜吃饭，谈到第二天行程，我当然是直接去日隆，还有个朋友和我同路，其他几个人犹豫着，此时中间一人发表意见：黄龙没意思，要看天气，弄不好耗费一天也没有玩好。结果决定：第二天去日隆。马上有人敢去买票，结果和我们买的票就差几个位子——没什么人回成都？饭照样吃，点了好几个菜，反正上来就光光，都跟恶狼似的。仔细问了另外几个失散朋友前一天晚上是怎么过的。原来他们住到沟内去了！是在则查洼寨，也就是诺日朗往长海方向不远处的那一个，据说在那边还逮住一个同行去四姑娘山的男孩子（正在读什么军校，也有个70升的背包，还自带睡袋，这次是出来玩的说）他们当晚在那个寨子里的藏民家过夜，25元一个人还有免费大餐，据说是小脸盆似的肉和菜吧！据说吃得有滋有味儿的，是否真的那样只有他们自己知道了。不过没有洗澡所以今天他们非洗澡不可了。吃晚饭在街上两边的小店逛了逛就各自回访休息了。
9月17日九寨沟到日隆全天移动中为了赶7点的车，我们早早起床，此时天色还暗着，但是街上已经有出租车开始拉活儿了。我们分别洗漱完毕后整装待发，从窗户探出头就可以看到对面街上饮食铺的准备状况，掏出我的望远镜一看，他们正在揉面点火准备着呢！不过好像卫生状态实在不咋地！如不放心还是自买密封包装的食品吧！我们下楼后去了旁边一家小饮食店，里面炉火正旺，有稀粥！好啊，好久没喝稀粥了，要了一碗五毛钱，看见还有包子就想要四个。可是看上去好像还没有蒸熟，问了价格，5毛一个，我说要四个！可女老板非要8个起卖不可，我说我吃不了，她说'我这里只能8个起卖'真是岂有此理，难道要我'吃饱了撑得不成？ ! '时间不允许我多耗时间了，就只好要了两个茶叶蛋，泡菜免费（一种略带粉红色的像卷心菜似的浆汁蔬菜小碟），对付了个半饱后打的出发去车站。
到交通饭店的九寨沟客运中心（其实就是个比较大的停车场，要注意的是：买票时一定看清是九寨沟客运中心的票，因为同时还出售九寨沟县客运处的票，那可是在40公里开外的县城坐车哟！）上车后发现车也陆续坐满了，我的位子是4号，就是车行方向左侧第二排，第一排每边只有一个座位，分别给两个司机中的一位和售票员占了。车子还是亚星，比我们来时的亚星好像更脏！到点出发，路上无话，也没有特别风景介绍了，有的打瞌睡养养神，有的没事听音乐。中午时分到了另外一个饭店'回归饭店'看样子是97年开的张！饭店拿菜规矩照旧：看盆付钱，我只要了一盘土豆牛肉和白饭，也吃得津津有味的。我想这两家酒店可真是发财，因为每天的这些长途客车司机都到这里停车吃饭，估计是有关系的，司机停车乘客有不下车吃饭的理吗？于是一大帮生意呢！其实饭菜也就是填饱的份儿，根本不能算是好。但是一般路餐就不讲究了吧！跟城市里的5元快餐质量差不多。上车后下午4点20分到了映秀，比预计的晚一个多小时！下车处在通往映秀和九寨沟和成都的交叉路口，这里停着两辆面的我谈了谈价格，包两辆开价600，我说550。后来同伴建议再找夏利车，面的不可靠。于是他们拿了一个对讲机（这是另外一对夫妇朋友带的，的确在整个路程上非常有用），我们也拿一个后，他们就往镇上走。不多久他们找到两辆，说500搞定！我让他们开过来看看车，车来一看还行，于是就上车了。真对不起那面的的老兄，起先他们还挺高兴，现在这会儿一定是垂头叹气的了。上车后感觉夏利车还不错，特别是转弯和加速方面肯定比面的要好许多呢！后来也证明选择是正确的。不过我们还是要赶时间，毕竟从映秀到日隆镇至少要花3个多小时呢！从消息源了解到从映秀到日隆镇的距离是这样的：映秀（49Km）卧龙关（97 Km）八朗山垭口（31 Km）。日隆通往日隆的公路是水泥路，是一种比较粗粝状的水泥路，而且比较窄，刚好容得下两辆巴士对开，路况尚可，不像许多介绍上的那么好，因为路途上有跑运输的卡卡车来往，很多往往有超载的嫌疑，所以许多水泥路都被压出了很粗的有落差的裂纹，小车的轮胎较窄在上面行使，轮胎经常会在裂纹中间刮磨，损耗可能比较大。我们的车16：50出发。一路上可以欣赏路边的溪水和山涧，溪水现在很小，据说大时水可以冲上公路呢！溪水中可以看到很大的石头，真是大啊！两辆车紧跟着，司机都认识，对路况比较熟悉，所以开得飞快。很快过了一个山洞后我们加了一下油，略感天色渐暗，我们继续赶路去了。车行途中的两侧大可睁大眼睛把我们可爱的国宝大熊猫栖息的环境尽收眼帘，因为这里属于卧龙地区，因此保护大熊猫爱护大熊猫的爱心指示牌不时出现在公路旁。我很喜欢大熊猫，真的希望我们的国宝有一天可以自由的在山林中来往而不用受到人类活动的骚扰。沿途一直顺着那条山涧一路而上，偶尔有几辆车从对面驶来。从映秀到日隆的这一段里车辆很少，比去九寨沟的不知道少了多少，所以也显得清静了许多。去卧龙的中途会经过耿达镇，在那里看到几辆运蔬菜的卡车。那里虽然属于比较偏远的地区，但是他们那边装蔬菜的架势颇有些日本式的认真和整齐——一颗颗的卷心菜整整齐齐地堆放在货舱里，每一层都用纸板垫放好后再放另外一层。真是很好的工作方法啊！记不清楚开了多少时间，大概半小时不到吧，我们到了一个叫三道桥道班的地方，闸口旁可以看到一辆令你毛骨悚然的车——车子是北京吉普，好像是绿色的，全车只剩骨架而且已被蹂躏成一个铁疙瘩了！据司机介绍，这辆车已经在这里很久了，可能是被拖到这里的。这车一定是在巴朗山翻山公路上冲出来跌落下来翻滚压扁成这个样子的。我们听了直起鸡皮疙瘩，不明的紧张感油然而生，不过我们还是压住对去四姑娘山路途艰险的紧张感，让司机放起了音乐磁带……18：20（为何记得住时间？因为我在路上写了笔记）我们到了三圣沟，之后就开始爬坡了，但是渐渐的雾气也开始浓了（惊险和刺激从此开始）此后一个小时我们看着窗外渐浓的雾气（很潮湿，其实是雾和水汽）很为能否安全抵达日隆镇而担心，车厢里已经没有了很多欢笑。 19：30分我们估计海拔已到三千米以上了。幸好我们两辆车里都有一个人拿着对讲机，所以尽管一路爬坡而上，有了对讲机的沟通和传达，我们彼此倒也分享到不少别致的景色！另外一辆夏利好像患有'高原反应'（别笑，汽车真的是会有高原反应的，具体症状就是：车辆挂一档和两档爬坡开始变得非常吃力，有的时候甚至会拖不动！就像人一样爬不动了，要喘喘气）我们越爬越高，雾气也越来越大，此时我记得可见度大概在30到40米左右。我们透过玻璃窗（海拔高，又已到了傍晚，所以车外气温已经很低了，我们坐在车内已经开始觉得冷了，所以车窗全部摇上了）可以看见蜿蜒的山路旁的植被已经从乔木变成了矮小的灌木，而且高原苔藓和草地越发开阔，我们意识到我们现在的海拔一定不低。现在只有我们两辆夏利车在山路上盘旋而上，公路也顺着山势蜿蜒着。我们不断前进，从对讲机得知另一辆车在前面一个加水处停下了，好像患了'高原反应'。由于大雾弥漫，能见度下降到20米左右，为了安全我们的车早就从一开始卧龙处的70公里/小时降到了30公里/小时，过了几分钟我们看到他们的车停在了一个拐弯处，此时天色虽然已暗，但是仍然比较透亮，因为光线从天空的浓密的云层中穿过，再在水雾中漫射开去，犹如一片白色的天棚笼罩在山脊上方，我们既兴奋又不敢随意跑动，因为海拔估计逼近4000米，如果此时有什么高原反应，即使是头疼什么的，遇到车辆抛锚，这个滋味可不是好受的。所以我们停车后推开车门，感觉到潮湿而清凉的雾气扑面而来，大雾中，我们还可以隐约看到周围山脊的近段山坡，绿色而又点透黄，草地上的露水很多，比较湿滑，严重提醒：千万不要到草地上特别是走到坡度比较大的地方，从那里滑下去跟那辆'铁疙瘩'也差不了多少了！我们在周围走了一圈发现空气是那么的好！尽管看不到远方，我们的脑海中都对看不见的山谷远方充满了无尽的遐想，美丽的山坡和潮湿的公路伸向浓密的山雾当中，谁知前途是何模样？不管怎样，留个影吧，也许这是难得的画面哦！于是我举起广角镜头的X-700拍了两张，结果倒也为旅途的回忆增添了不少的话题。当初我下车后疾走了几步来到公路边想一眼尽收巴朗山雄壮的臂怀，没想到立刻得到了'回报'——心跳一下子嘣嘣地跳得厉害！我知道高原上的厉害了，于是以后在高原上仅有一次疾跑（被逼无奈，请听后回锅庄坪上的遭遇吧！）外，再不敢剧烈活动了，大家要切忌！雾还是那么大，我们还是必须前行，因为我们连巴朗山垭口还没有到呢！几个同伴纷纷从行囊里把厚衣服给套上了，说实话的确比下面冷了不少，大概现在温度在11-14度上下，我的衣服要从背包里挖出来挺费劲，何况自己身上穿的一件长袖衬衫加尼龙外套还不至于让我牙齿像缝纫机铐边一样上下嘎达一阵子，于是就挺了挺作了个深呼吸上车关门关窗准备出发了。车子发动后继续往山上跑，两辆夏利车打开了雾灯和前灯，此时雾气加重，能见度10米到15米了，车速下降到25公里/小时左右，每每到转弯处，我们跟着司机提着神，恨不得我们车上五个人（我坐前排，后面坐了两女一男，因为相对比较瘦小能够'塞'进小夏利，我一米八的吨位只好坐前排了，另外一辆车有两个吨位比我还大的，只好借机享受夏利后排'头等舱'似的空间了。）的注意力都集中到司机身上。好几次我帮着司机擦干挡风玻璃上内侧的水汽（由于车内外温差渐大，车内的水汽在冰凉的玻璃上形成了雾），好让司机看清道路，也为我们的安全增加一些安全值（其实天晓得安全值有多少！）。司机打开了热空调，可以想象我们当时的温度感受了吧！要知道那可是9月中旬，还不是深秋哦！我们又在左拐右转当中一边寻找公路中间的那根水泥路的分界线作为行使的基准，同时也欣赏到了一种从没有看到过的景象：是牦牛！我们贴着窗外，在昏暗的天幕当中，我们还可以看见上坡上由藏民放养的牦牛。那些牦牛身材魁梧，估计吃他们是不可能，被他们揣一脚倒是非常'合适'！据说这些牦牛是自然放养，就是说从小能够独立找吃的开始就被放到了山上，然后过大概两、三年后主人才去把他们圈回用以他用。当然时不时藏民也会去山坡上看看他们放养的牦牛的。他们在如此浓密的大雾中照样悠闲自在地吃草，行走在陡峭的山坡上，真让我感叹自然物与生俱来的生命力和适应能力啊！有生命的和没有生命的在这些几乎与世隔绝的地方形成了多么和谐的旋律啊！此时对讲机里传来了前面一辆夏利车的通报（在翻越巴朗山垭口当中，我们的队友乘坐的夏利车担当了探险先锋的角色，也非常感谢那位司机精湛的驾驶技术和对讲机的帮助，使我们在随后的乘坐当中有惊却无险地翻越巴朗山）：前方有车队经过，都是大卡车！ ）话音完了我们仔细辨认前方的路况，大概一分钟后，我们看到对面的灯光放慢了车速（其实这是的车速也就和自行车的速度差不多少了）很快看清了大卡车，那是些跑运输的加长型卡车，大概载重量在6吨到8吨之间，车子倒是不错，如果万一遇到不测，可以向他们求援搭顺风车，因为当地遇到在巴朗山上求助的路人大多会提供帮助的，这据说也是那里的一种道德风尚吧！卡车在盘山公路上缓慢下山，速度自然是非常的慢以免一不小心滑了下去惊动了大山伯伯。公路转弯处往往即陡又急，很多地方是一个180度的回转上坡路，车辆在此不能够对开，所以要等到大卡车转过弯道我们才可上行。我们的车在这样的道路上还要行走很长的一段时间，说实话是每个弯都让我们提心吊胆，所以才觉得时间过的是如此的慢！那些弯道处的外侧不是几十米深的山坡，而是几百米深的山坡，坡度都很大，更可怕的是有的地方没有保护墩！所以司机一个疏忽很可能就成为绝世的跳跃！说到这里天已经完全黑了，司机师傅只打开了近灯，我问为什么不开远光灯？他告诉我说因为雾太大，打开远光灯的话，一部分光线照射到雾上回反射回来，另一部分光线则慢射开去，这样整个前方都是一片白色，根本看不到路。所以我们的司机师傅还是自己地看着这公路的中线！对讲机里不时传来前方道路的信息，为我们做好了思想准备。一会儿遇到急弯要求留意，一会说路边有大石块放慢速度。我们就这样在能见度变成大概只有5米的情况下车速大概保持15公里/小时向巴朗山口靠近。也许是紧张和视线的模糊加上车内的空调，我时不时地犯起困来。雾气变成雨滴拍打着挡风玻璃，车子艰难地往前挺进，我们已经不关心几点到达日隆镇了，我们只祈求能够安全抵达。我一个困劲好像就睡着了，不多会儿车停了，我睁开眼发现前面停的车就是另一辆夏利车。我们下了车，这里已经是在细密的雨滴和潮湿空气混合的环境当中了，车子都亮起了双跳灯。我看见几个朋友紧缩着身子，迎着细密的雨滴抬起头看着头上的一块牌子！我掏出带来的LED聚光手电照去。 Wow!原来我们已经到了巴朗山垭口！标志上如果没有记错的话写着：4523米！这是我目前到过的最高的地方了！大家那个激动啊！什么雨啊，什么漆黑的天色啊，都不管啦！几个朋友不管能不能留下清晰的影响，拿出相机就拍，我就照亮手电为他们'补光'（天晓得这补光的色温是多少！）司机检查了车况看看没有问题继续上路，翻过巴朗山我估算按照现在的状况还要花很多时间。结果出乎意料，翻过了山，能见度越来越好！不知过了多久，我的手电漫不经心地照射着车外的景物而形成的光柱和圆斑变得越来越不清晰，原来是雾气散尽，空气变得分外清爽了——巴朗山把山的两侧分割成截然不同的天气，真是令我叹为观止。之后一路非常顺利，我们在猫鼻梁处下车休息看了看，知道这里就是拍摄四姑娘山的地方，决定一定要来拍一拍（顺便说一下，拍四姑娘山的最佳景点其实有许多，猫鼻梁只是最为Popular（大众化）的地方，是在四姑娘山的南方，早晨太阳从这里的右侧投射过来，可以照亮四姑娘山的右侧山脊的一部分，绝大多数还是在阴影当中，如果要拍摄日照金山的照片，就要等到下午4点以后，这时在猫鼻梁可以拍到四姑娘山的全部姿态，就像舞台上的射灯把四只大天鹅照亮一样，嘻嘻。不过这里拍摄还是需要用长焦镜头，120mm以上比较好，不然前景太多了）。然后我们上车很快左扭右拐地就到了下方的兴懋大酒店。这是几家不错的住宿处，因为我的一个朋友的帮忙住进了最后的三间房（当日有好几个南方来的团入住），条件不错。我们付了车前后，那两位司机师傅又匆匆赶回映秀的家中去了，希望他们翻过巴朗山后一路平安。
时近9点，我们饿着肚子卸掉行囊后到镇上找吃的。走出酒店不远就找到一家餐馆，我们不顾许多就点了菜，也许是太累太饿了，我不记得点什么菜了，反正上来一个菜，筷子就跟下雨一样扎了进去，转眼就没！说说笑笑刚才的经历，恐怕每个人都永远不会忘记！吃晚饭，我们祈祷第二天天气好一点，可以看到我们仰慕已久的四姑娘山大姐姐们！
9月18日双坪沟内因为旅途的疲乏我决定当日安排双桥沟。从之前搜集到的资料看，都说双桥沟可以半天游完出沟。其实这种说法很片面的。我的行程相信会提供另外一种不同的参考！不过我还是决定早上稍微晚起一点好多积积能量。
早上8点睁眼一看天色，云层泛白，没有蓝色！完了，我想好天气没有从九寨沟带到四姑娘山，真是不走运啊！此时我也想起了几个朋友多次进出四姑娘山没有遇到好天气的遭遇，可见四个姐姐的芳容可不是什么人都让你见得着的哦，所以即使没有看到也不要着急，就当作大姐姐们在偷偷看你罢了！ ：）其他几个朋友决定去长坪沟骑马，所以早早收拾行装上路了。我则不慌不忙带了摄影包和三脚架走出酒店去吃早饭了。因为想早点进沟就在酒店前的路边（日隆镇很小的，第一次来的人也不会迷路！日隆镇就在一个山谷中，公路沿着山坡盘旋下来，通往下方的小金）的小食谱买了四个包子：两毛五分钱一个包子，挺便宜的吧！别高兴！买了四个咬了下去发现面是僵掉的——海拔高沸点下降，所以在这里蒸煮食物时，水的沸点低于100度，估计也就在90度左右吧！ （具体的计算方法忘了，好像在初中物理里面有讲到，真是书到用时方恨少啊！）真是没办法，但是不吃是不行的，也当作一种特殊的旅途'回味'吧！搭了面的5元钱到达双桥沟口，这里的沟口和公路旁的观光车有大概两百米的距离，在观光车停车场里停放几辆面包车，车况算是不错的（当然外观是模仿丰田面包车的）。正好有个南方的团要进沟，工作人员让我快买票随团进沟（双桥沟门票40元，车票60元，正好100元；还是门票60元车票40元我记不得了）。跳上车只坐上了加座，立马车就开进沟了。
观光车在沟内的山路（都是修得很好的水泥路，但是据说也是豆腐渣工程，沟内正在局部地进行加盖水泥，可能很快就会修得更好！）沟内全长34公里左右，山路蜿蜒进山后可以看到两侧的较为秀气的山峰，由于当日上午的天气还是属于阴天加高湿度，所以山峰的高处都被浸润在山雾之中而不可明视。一路上，藏民解说员和一个车内团里比较活跃分子一直在对话，最后藏民解说员被要求唱藏歌，倒也颇有一番情趣。其间我们经过了杨柳桥、阴阳谷、白杨林带、日月宝镜山、五色山等奇景，又经过了撵鱼坝，包括人参果坪、沙棘林、尖山子、九架海等景点。 Posterior segment of nuipengzi lawn and long flood, which has A deceased mother mountain, Hunter Peak, blood building wall was further fortified, armed Song Yi Choi, nuipengzi long dam and other attractions.路过几个藏民居住的村落时，藏民解说员说如有兴趣可以在藏民家吃饭，人均25元（这个价格比较公道的）路过时他去打个招呼，他们可以准备，返程时正好中午时分可以在这里用餐。下车打招呼的同时，车上的人都出来'方便'一下了，藏民的茅房（也就只能描写了，说厕所很不贴切！因为木头棚棚里面就是一个木板地面挖出一个洞洞，大的小的都穿洞而出，其臭无比。我看到一个大头苍蝇在两个'洞'当中的隔板上爬行，驱赶它，它居然不飞，只是慢慢爬行！我恍悟：都是在这里被这臭熏笨了！于是我立刻跑了出来，免得中了余毒影响后面的拍摄灵感）话不多说，上车后就一直到了最尽头。这里可以据说可以看到冰川，但是现在这天起根本看不到，我也就当没有冰川可看，以免肠子痒痒得难受！下车点旁边有个廊子，有几个藏民（都是沟内实际居住的藏民，为了给予一定的补助，允许他们在沟内出售一些旅游纪念品，沟外的藏民不允许进沟做生意）我买了本当地的照片风景2元钱，和一个村民老伯（也就40多岁吧）聊聊了，表达我没有遇到好天气的失望，他说沟内天气经常变化，这时常有的事情，也许很快中午就会放晴的。我想但愿吧！在旁边修建的厕所轻松了一下出来，天空还是阴沉沉的，还有点雨点飘落下来。我想今天在长坪沟骑马肯定路也不好走，因为已到阴雨天，长坪沟的路就是一片泥泞，这我早有耳闻了。于是今天就慢慢欣赏双桥沟吧！毕竟这也被认为是四姑娘山三条沟中最美丽的沟吧！ （我真不知道这种评价是以什么标准作出来的，每个人的审美角度都不一样，所以大可不必如此当真地相信）我跟随车的解说员表达了我的想法，它叫来了司机，他们要我留个条说明情况和留下电话，以便随后确认我真的处了沟。我被告知沟内会有狗熊出没，还有熊猫和狼等动物，万一遇到险情很麻烦。我表示知道后就独自往下走了。不久那辆观光车就从我身旁擦肩而过，很快就看不见了。说实话，一个人在山林里走的确有点孤单无助，如果没有公路上时不时地看到运送修路材料的工人开着拖拉机经过，真得觉得有点心慌呢！走路的同时不忘端着我的小小白东瞄西看的，既然拍不了远景那就来点近的吧，表现一下双桥沟内丰富的植物品种也不错的。这里的植被很好，空气自然是我这次四川之行当中感到最为新嫌宜人的，这里海拔大概也有3000多米，所以走路还是要讲究步调，不要迈小步子，三步并两步地走比较好，也就是步调慢一些，步幅可稍大一些，这样心跳不会很快，也不会很喘。高原喝水也要讲究方法，不要一口气喝很多，尽量一次喝一口，因为一次喝多了对心脏也有负荷，心肌有问题的人就会有一定风险了。我离开公路走上了旁边的草地，幸好我穿的是登山鞋，鞋面的花纹粗而结实，所以不会很滑，也不容易被泥嵌住。我慢慢欣赏，看到了国家二级保护植物松茸（这也是我在饭店的墙上看到这个知识的！），松茸很可爱，小小矮矮的，颜色为奶黄偏土黄。看上去在这样湿润和清新的空气中非常健康的生长呢！我没有走进，以免惊扰了这可爱的小家伙，我拍了一张它的特写后就离开了。 （我也希望每一个到那边的朋友们爱护你周围的自然景观，尽管可能没有带回一株而感到后悔，但是你可以为美丽的双桥沟的自然美景作出的牺牲而感到无尽的欣慰和自豪。）步行下坡的途中（基本上一路下坡34公里，可见尽头的海拔不底。）不时地左右瞧看，细细地感觉那千姿百态的山的朦胧的美吧！我没有记录下绝大多数看到的山的名字，所以没有办法说明看到的是什么山，所以我回来之后结合景区图才估计是到了哪里。不过野人峰倒是很特别的一座大山，从公路上看这座山的下半部分被一些树木和植被所覆盖，显得郁郁葱葱而生机勃勃，上半部分确是几乎不长一草一木的悬崖峭壁，据说因为在山上发现有山洞，同内有一些人类居住的痕迹，所以因此得名（不过是不是因为哪位远古的徒步旅行家在哪里支过帐篷，我可就不得而知了，呵呵）。路过野人峰往下走时不时回回头看看走过的景色就不会错过许多美丽的画面（我推荐大家在步行时经常回头看看，我记得这是一个摄影大师的话）。走走看看就到了一个很开阔的地方，公路往前延伸，两旁的山的间距也很开阔，中间是草地和山坡，一个中国移动的发射架醒目地矗立在山坡一侧，发射架下的基座上蹲着两位，一打听是工作人员看护铁塔的，我本想爬上去拍几张'特色'照片，可是既然有人看护也就放弃了这个念头。此时太阳光好像透过云层中比较松散的空档投了出来，一线投射到山脊上，形成一块明亮的光斑煞是好看！看样子天气要转好了！我心中窃喜，按捺不住兴奋的心情我从摄影包里又一次掏出相机看哪儿打哪儿：）由于我带了两个相机，的确比较麻烦，一大一小兄弟俩各有所长，挂在脖子上还经常打架！我可舍不得亲兄弟破坏手足情，结果还是把小小白放包里，用时再取出。走到这里就是12点多了，我觉得早上的僵馒头实在难以填饱，所以就开始吃露餐了。我从塑料袋里拿出饼干（又是饼干，应该带面包或者锅巴之类的比较好吃，饼干真的不适合当主食）和火腿肠来啃了起来（建议不专注摄影的驴友们可以带些罐头食品，相信一定能够大大改善露餐的质量，当然不要忘了把吃剩下的空罐头带出沟哦！）。坐在路边的石头上，听着溪水流淌的声音和鸟的欢叫声，你自己仿佛也变成了山林中的一个精灵，享受着自然的回报……边吃边看着周围的美景，真的觉得如果当一个农民，能够勤恳地劳动和采集当地的果实也是一种很好方式呢。正想着也吃得差不多了的当儿，远处传来了摩托的轰鸣声。山上跑来一辆摩托车，一个头戴皮帽，比较瘦小的村民呼啸而下。我一看就是刚才在我下车的地方和我聊天的那个村民！他听了下来招呼我，我和他挥了挥手。他问我是否要搭车下去，我想了想，吃过东西再走很快会累得，上山途中好像也没有发现特别令人激动的景色，于是同意了。我收拾好零散放在地上的东西，跨上摩托的后座，一拍那老乡的肩膀，随着马达的一阵轰响就向山下跑去。现在明白老乡为什么戴皮帽和连着手把的皮手套了——因为速度挺快的，风扑面而来真的挺冷的呢！不过幸好我戴着一顶渔夫圆边帽还可以挡挡风，否则我的头一定会很疼的。虽然穿的不是很多，但是以我的身板儿还是可以顶得住那风的考验的，不过说实话还是觉得很冷啊！突然飘起了雨点，打在脸上像针刺！我的帽子防水，所以低了低头，握紧我的包带，搭稳老乡的肩膀往下飞驰。记得坐在摩托车上看两侧风景完全是不同的心情：因为视线开阔，所以尽可环顾四周的美景，身边的树木和公路飞快地消失在身后。如果你是坐车的话，除非要求把车顶篷拆了（估计这个要求当场遭到否决），否则你只能看到周围的一部分而已。所以坐摩托的这段经历相信很少有人能够享受得到哦，嘻嘻！我们继续飞驰，来到了先前路过的村落，看到了那辆观光车停在路边，村落的木屋上的烟囱里正飘出缕缕青烟，估计他们那个南方的团正在里面吃羊肉什么的呢！有几个游客正好走出门，看到一个老乡'驮'这一个背包有戴帽子的人在后面觉得煞是惊讶，从他们的眼神中就看出来了。估计他们楞住的那一会儿我们已经从他们的视线中消失了。路上遇到了几个当地居民都和骑摩托的老乡打招呼，但是看到我就觉得有趣，冲我们直笑，回礼之际我也向他们挥挥手。雨时停时下，像是在逗我玩呢。我们的摩托车在人参果滩停了下来，老乡的家就在附近，我非常感谢他，他对我说：'那你好好耍啊！ '（四川人管玩叫耍，但不知道管玩叫什么）我点头答应笑别老乡往下走去。到了人参果滩发现天色渐亮，云彩中也透出了湛蓝的天空了！我很时兴奋，心想可以看到雪峰了？ !于是紧了紧脚步。人参果滩沿公路两旁都很开阔，下坡的右手侧被铁丝网拦起来了，所以不能够进入，里面是大草场。另外一边可以沿着山坡走下去，那边远处有条溪流，溪流的旁边就有栈道，还有个藏族非常常见的白塔。走过一座木桥你可以接近那个白塔。桥头树下有两个藏族小孩在这里玩耍（后来知道那也是赚钱的行当）小孩七八岁，比较可爱，一个哥哥一个妹妹，树边好像是妈妈和另外一个妇女在一起。我想拍小孩，小男孩立刻遮住脸不让拍，嘴里还念叨着：拍一张一块钱！我想怪不得现在的孩子都要当明星，从小就去挤什么影视班，为了一张脸花上多少钱都值得呢，原来藏民也已经学会啦！我说那不拍了就走过了桥看白塔去。我的小小白可不是摆设，乘他们没有注意就是几张，抓个自然感觉再说！结果照片真的还不错！小孩跑过来在草地上就是一躺，好像不嫌脏似的，简直就像无忧无虑天真可爱的小动物欢快地在玩耍（没有侮辱的意味，别见怪），我拿出一根火腿肠递给他们，他们开心得不得了，很快就剥了开去分享起来。我走上公路他们还在桥边玩耍，不过我却看到了一个令人不快的画面：小男孩吃完火腿肠竟然把包装皮随手丢弃在河边！我想，这真是不应该啊！不经意的举动很快令我觉得，个人的修养必须从小牢固建立起来，长大后这种天然自成的良好基础一旦没有稳固起来，那么不管硬件设施建立得多么完美，都会因为人的失准而失去意义。我希望自己能够自律，这对自己对社会都是有益的。继续前行，真的是云开日出啊！这里的天空那么的蓝，蓝得令你抬头不断地遐想着自己可以融入那无尽的蓝天中去。云也分外的洁白，如同刚暴开的棉花一样白得刺眼。这里可真是天国般的清新啊！绕过人参果滩，走了一段路好像下面是经过几处当地村民的居舍，偶尔见到村民在村舍的田里耕作劳务，围墙里常常有家养的看门狗朝你叫唤，不过不要怕，都被主人用绳子或铁链拴住了。农家养的花倒是分外的鲜龙活现，随风摇摆，自洁而欢快。我问村民老伯有没有这花的籽好让我带回去种，他说没有，我只得拍了几张特写作为了永久的纪念。背景就是农舍和蓝天白云，小花作为主体，我是蹲着仰拍的。往下走才是令我觉得双桥沟最漂亮的（当然这种定义很有偏见，因为受限于我当时遇到的天气和我所到的场所，大家只当作为参考罢了）！公路一个湾看到了对岸山坡上的农庄，下面就是树林和一条比较宽阔的溪流潺潺流淌，再近一些就是一片杨树（恕我才疏学浅，我猜大概是杨树，以后放上照片让大家给看看），树也已经泛黄，一片连在一起一直延伸到公路边上。我看到有条小路可以走下去就抄小路离开了公路。这时完全是晴朗的午后了，阳光，云彩和蓝天和谐而安静。我举头拍摄了好多这里的照片，那些树干，树叶都是非常好的素材。旁边溪流上还有一座简易的木桥，在桥上尽可拍些流水和远山。我觉得这里很出照片，我不多说，大家自己去慢慢回味吧！记得要用反转片哦——感染力成倍增加！ Hee hee.
继续下行，顺着下坡路虽然已经走了很长一段，但是也不觉得特别累，只是如果我的鞋里再垫一块柔软的鞋垫就太好了。所以大家出行前可以去体育用品店买一幅运动型鞋垫一定对你的双脚大有裨益的。后面一段就尽情呼吸山中的空气，接受紫外线的烤晒吧！因为天真得好的让人变得贪婪起着阳光来。当然一定要抹防晒霜，我就是以为阴雨天没事儿，结果被太阳烤了才知道厉害，会成都那天仔细端详我的容颜，发现居然蜕皮了！ !大概又走了好一段，一辆观光车擦身而过，却在前面停了下来。我一看跳下的人我认识！是我们一个部队的，呵呵（我又得救一次），好好，正好跑累了该歇歇脚了。于是跳上车一路和朋友们谈经历一路尽情放松我可爱的脚丫……心里说：您辛苦了！ :)
出沟4点整。我们打面的回酒店，每人5元。那里的小面的司机基本上好像都串通一气自己订好了价格标准似的，所以很难说动他们'屈尊'降价的。我不知道今后他们的胃口会不会越来越大，这很难说。我们现在3个人，我是和那对夫妇在一起的，他俩也走累了说要回酒店歇息，我说要去猫鼻梁看四姑娘大姐，他们说看到的话发短信给他们，他们就立刻打的赶过去。于是分手我离开酒店，招了几辆面的说5元去猫鼻梁，死活不肯，非得10元不可。我抬头看看天上的云，此时已经非常令人担忧了，我往上坡路走去，也就是去猫鼻梁的方向漫步走去，希望能够碰到一个愿意5块钱去的。结果走到日隆镇外围也没有碰到。我很泄气，看看天空云层渐厚，连近处的山头上也看不太清楚了，我想即使到了猫鼻梁也是看不到四姑娘山的，这是我从一张猫鼻梁拍摄的照片上判断距离后得出的结论。于是放弃了去猫鼻梁的计划，决心第二天去锅庄坪补上这张照片！回到酒店告诉那对夫妇朋友说看不到回来了后，他们也感到了四姑娘山的难睹芳容之苦。于是我们回房等待那批进长坪沟的朋友们的归来。大概到了6点多，传来了短信说他们已经出沟了，于是我的胃开始条件反射地叫唤起来。有过了半个多小时，他们赶回到'大本营'个个精疲力竭的样子（这个倒是符合网上其他人的游记纪录的，因为骑马需要坐着，虽然不用走路，但是跟着马匹扭动腰肢还是非常的辛苦。唯一的好处是不会弄脏鞋和裤子。另外一个军校的小弟自己徒步跟着马匹走得比马快，看看他裤子上的干稀泥就知道路况了！）其中一个女孩子倒在沙发上就没有睁开眼过，一觉好像就睡过去了。我们还是决定进贡五脏庙去，还是去了前一天的餐馆。他们点了一些奇怪的食物，我也叫不上名字，一种像芝麻糊一样的东西，加上黄油调在一起吃，估计女孩子没有一点勇气吃不了——热量极高的食物！还有就是酥油茶（我一度念成'油酥茶'被耻笑许久）当然牛肉炖土豆不要错过，好吃又耐饥。还点了炒小白（就是卷心菜，叫法不同）和其他一些菜，好吃的忘了菜名了（其实完全沾了'饥不择食'的光）。酒足饭饱后，大家对于一天游玩的大团聚都感到收获颇多，回头一定要好好写游记，结果好像只有我有那么坚强的毅力和执著写了这么多给大家看……
回到酒店休息，打算第二天进长坪沟'筋疲力尽'一回。只期盼着天公作美啊！ !窗外酒店对面的酒家里的歌舞表演居然到晚上10点还把里面的演出节目'实况'对外广播，吵得我心烦意乱！什么扎西德勒的一遍又一遍，我都快炸死得了！ !突然声音中断，再未响起，万幸万幸。睡眼朦胧中，我失去了清醒的意识……
9月19日锅庄坪 闹钟一响知道是起床的时候，拉开窗帘一阵刺眼，原以为是个大好天，结果担心啥就来啥——阴云比昨天更厉害！之前据那批去过的朋友说长坪沟不到木骡子看不到什么四姑娘山的风景，特别是要到那边的一个大草原才有机会看到好风光。而且途中也不可能让你下马好好架好阵势拍风景的。之前也就是沿着溪流看稀泥地，下雨就更糟糕了。我想去还是不去呢？最后我考虑不愿花250元租马费去受那个罪，何况天气又不好，不能拍到好的照片真是不值得呢！也许留着下次来的时候再拍吧！四川的美景是不嫌多来几趟的。于是我决定——倒头再睡一会儿。那几个昨天游玩长坪沟的今天决定去双桥沟，所以比我早出发。我和那个军校娃'留守'在酒店里目光呆滞地看着窗外开始飘起的雨点，心里暗想，好不容易来到四姑娘山却看不到四姑娘山的容貌，真的是太遗憾了呀！于是傻乎乎地看了一会儿电视，实在把我憋得难受了决定：去锅庄坪！锅庄坪就在日隆镇的旁边，随便找个大妈大佰问一下就可以指给你看！你说简单吧！ Hehe.那个军校娃也像去看看于是带了必要的装备上路。路上无话，走上了公路，顺着山路两个右转弯就上了笔直的斜坡公路，那里有个票厅就是海子沟的入沟售票处，我一看门票30元！于是就买了两张，结果军校娃嫌贵就没去，我只好退票一张。跟他说回头看到四姑娘山时在联系后便分开走了，他自个儿逛去了，我从一个不起眼的公路岔口就上了山坡。
这山坡的路就是人踩出来的，马儿跺出来的。我沿着小道往上走，坡度大概20度左右，还算不太费力，就是别走太快，心急了肯定喘死你！我是慢慢迈着大步往上走，反正也不赶路，今天的目标就在锅庄坪上拍几卷结束四姑娘山之旅。走过一个之字弯往上前行到尽头看到有好几个藏民依靠在一个木头屋子旁的栏杆上看着我，旁边有跟藏民数量一致的马匹。我立刻知道他们是马夫，专门提供游客骑马带路服务的。我在木屋处递上票后，管理者说要不要租马？我说我自己上去不走远的。于是扭过脸又是一个之字弯，起点有个横杆拦住去路，我从旁边的缺口往上走去，回头看了看，那些藏民也看着我远去的身影，眼神中好像有些纳闷，估计没有多少人徒步去海子沟的吧。我估摸着他们心里在想：又漏掉个一两百元！上了坡后走走歇歇，此时的确有点喘，所以每隔五十米左右就停一停（休息别坐着，最好站着，这样反而省体力。只有走一个小时左右你才坐下来休息10分钟，这样续久力可长一点）回头一看，日隆镇在我脚下了，而且我意识到自己已站到高处了，酒店下面的人已经变得很小了，远处的巴朗山那头由云海护着，格外壮观！我想等到了上面再拍，于是继续上行。又过一个之字弯就可到达锅庄坪的'马背'了。跨上锅庄坪的一刹那，眼前顿然开阔，一尊白塔跃入眼帘。这里的确很开阔，难怪每年藏族同胞都会在此举行盛大的团聚盛会呢！我环顾四周，看到了猫鼻梁！就在山的对面，背朝着四姑娘山，直线距离大概600-700米处，锅庄坪整个呈一个大马背形状：马头和颈部在锅庄坪靠四姑娘山一侧，即山坡向上的地方，马身和马屁股就指向远方巴郎山方向（这个比喻是我首创，但是觉得比较形象而容易理解，请大家验证）我拍了好些以白塔为前景，远山为背景的照片，还有以花草为主体，背景虚化的照片，格外有一种高山的韵味和魅力。朝向巴郎山拍了个遍后向后转朝向马头进发了。一路上看到的有草地和两侧山坡上的树木外就是马粪和牛粪！有的已经干枯呈饼状，很像我喜欢吃的曲奇饼干，当然这个'曲奇'我是没有胃口品尝的！两侧的树叶也开始泛黄，和远方的群山结合，透视感很强。日隆镇另外一面的山坡上，也就是从锅庄坪看去的对面那座山上有很多居舍和耕种的迹象，也可作为拍摄对象。我继续往上走，看到远处的山坡上有牦牛在吃草，而再往远处看还有一个白塔，大概和先前一个白塔相距五六百米，我决定爬到那里返回。此时大概已经是下午2点了。我看到那些牦牛有点害怕，因为那些牦牛的犄角很尖，所以很容易联想到捅破肚子的样子。不过幸好我没有任何红色衣物在身，因此斗胆尝试与牛共舞一遭！我看了看牦牛分布实际情况，决定从最为稀疏的牦牛群当中穿过，我数了数大概有五六十只牦牛，大大小小都有。我径直往前，我用余光看到牦牛吃着嫩草是不是抬头看看我这个'外来客'是否举止怀有敌意（我哪敢！）我只顾往前走，很快走出牦牛群——胜利通过！哈哈，我这时才放下心。据说当地藏民也劝游客不要太靠近牦牛，以免发生不测。现在应该放下心来了，牦牛兄弟还是挺温顺的，想着就快接近白塔了。此时有一段比较陡的坡，我没走几步就要歇一下，一测心跳，又多吓出几跳。原来现在我的心跳足有140次/分！就觉得胸口'咚咚'在敲军鼓。大概这时的海拔也不底，应该在3500-4000之间。我继续往山爬，终于来到了第二个百塔，回头一看，另外那个白塔已经十分遥远了，日隆镇就更加的微小了。我看看四姑娘山方向，还是被云雾所吞没，心想无望看到四位美眉了，回头吧！突然，我听见一下特别的叫声'呼呼'我顺着声音看去，真的有些发慌了！原来在第二个白塔后面不远处又有一群牦牛，大概二三十头。其中有一头2岁大点的黑牦牛正看着我，还朝我呼气呢！牦牛距我大概五十米开外，我以为是他自己在喘气呢，结果我猜错了，它的前脚蹄开始扒起地来——这个我看到过，西班牙斗牛场上，那牛进攻前就是这么个架式！可把我吓坏了，这时我的大脑CPU以10兆赫兹的频率计算得出了唯一的一个坚定信号：撒鸭子（开溜！），信号传达到我的手上，大概仅用了5秒就把小小白和机身和其他附件放进摄影包，拉上了拉链！检起扔在地上的三脚架和吃的食品回头一看，那小黑子已经神经兮兮地跳着小步舞朝我跑过来了！我吓得还好没有屁滚尿流，但也够跌打滚爬了！我一阵快跑（这就是那唯一一次在高原上疾跑的经历）冲下山坡，想象着那小黑子冲上来肯定要顶我，于是想躲进旁边的树丛，但是坡太陡，恐怕没有躲好，人就翻滚下去了，于是还是往下跑。此时看到两个藏民在先前那堆牛群中行走，我立刻叫喊起来，他们回头看着我，我回头看看那小黑子。那小黑子居然从山坡上跑了下来！我更急了，一个踉跄差点没有滑下山坡！我想在这种地形和这小黑子比速度等于让我和本约翰逊比100米赛跑——哪有不输的理啊！于是幸亏我没有因为被昨天那藏民农舍旁的茅房中散发的臭味中了余毒，我的思维还算可以正常运作，我就一个拐弯没有朝着来的方向，而是朝着旁边的一个比较陡的小道走了下去，然后尽量不发出声音静观形势。不料那小黑子果真从白塔后边绕了过来跑下山坡，口里还'牟牟'地叫唤呢！我心想四川都跑了一大半了，巴朗山都翻过来了，别栽在这小黑子的蹄下呀！还没等我这句台词想完呢，这小黑子居然又跳起桑巴，径直跑过我的身旁，朝一头小牛跑去，小牛看到了好像很高兴，一下钻到小黑子的下面要奶喝——原来是头小黑妞啊！我想不会是因为她生在高原，属于偏远户口，没有见到过城市里来的，刚才看到了我这个帅呆了的猛男而'情窦初开'想向我献殷勤吧！哈哈，胡思乱想了一阵，管它是不是符合人性和逻辑，反正逃过一戒，总算大幸，应该必有后福，回家后要去买几张彩票！ ：）此刻心跳减速，已不再'咚咚'跳了（当然也没有中止跳动！）我瞧着那斯，心中好气：好你小子，我爬第二白塔花了不少力气，心跳都达到过140，好不容易登上去，还没有看个够，就被你吓了下来，也真惊讶自己怎么会在那么短的时间就从上面下来的，看来人被逼急了下坡也不慢啊，呵呵！那小黑妞可能也在嘀咕：'看看，这小子真是差劲，我只是走了个台步，亮亮相就把他整成这个熊样儿！哎，城市里的人就是少见多怪！ '告别小黑妞送给我的这个'惊喜'后，我想时间差不多了，云层还是很浓厚，厚的跟我冬天在家盖的被子一样令人压抑。于是我想也许拍不到各位姑娘了，于是就决定返程慢慢下山。此时看到那两个藏民，他们坐在一旁的石头上聊着什么，我心里责怪着：干吗当初我叫你的时候不帮我一把，回头看热闹那吧！现在肯定在那里聊刚才的事儿吧！于是我不走向他们，在另外一侧穿过第一批牛群。那牛还是在那边优哉游哉地吃着嫩草，俨然一付对我不屑一顾的样子，然后我可不敢对他们不屑一顾啊！我转念一想，就这样下山不是很遗憾吗？没有拍到四姑娘山，回去说是“我去过四姑娘山啦”，“好，那照片来看看啊！”这是我可怎么交待呀！盗用明信片显然是要挨揍的。我想不管怎样拍不到雪峰，朝着那个方向拍上几张，冲出来给大家看，如果他们说看不到，我就运用'皇帝的新衣'的经典战术说：看不到？ !那么美丽的山看不到？ !你不适合区四姑娘山！ ! !哈哈……于是我端起我最好的家伙——小小白对准大大的白，就在这时，激动的时刻到来了！我看到了什么！四姑娘山的雪峰！哇，终于没有白来一趟啊！我把长焦推到最远，不管怎样先照个影子，回家慢慢流连忘返吧！天空一阵明亮，我想这是最佳时机了，所以我两台机器都拍了几张，但是我不清楚是哪个姑娘的倩影。我想回来我要好好进行技术鉴定，DNA技术是用不上了，用局部放大对比方法还是可以找出是哪位美眉落入我的影像当中的。此时一队从海子沟出沟的游客由马夫牵着马经过，他们也看到了，非常兴奋，但是在马上不方便拍照，于是也就刻入他们的记忆当中去了……拍完不久云层交叉遮挡住了雪峰便再也不见其芳蓉了，如同剧场散尽闭幕般，留给我的是无尽的回味和浮想——希望有朝一日我会回来再一次好好细细品味那俊美飒爽的四姑娘山，好好拍上几张绝世的作品，放大后装裱起来挂放在我的大客厅正前方，作为我一生的纪念吧！想着，我意犹未尽地回过头朝着来的路走去……
回到我到过的第一个白塔，环顾四周，真是感到时间在这里根本没有意义，只有你和大山。如果可以，我真的想席地而坐看着日出，沐浴阳光，和着山中的清风，任由云雨滋润吹拂，看着太阳日落播撒的金色光芒，此刻你定会感到人生何求啊！如果我当时遇到云开日出，有幸见到四姑娘山的雪峰模样，我想我是会热泪盈眶的……就把这种感觉暂时宝藏，待我明后年再度来四川行走四方时把这种热情和感觉释放出来吧！想着我又依恋不舍地拍了几张周围的照片作为最后的纪念，便收起了所有的摄影器材放到包里。可偏偏就是那么寸！刚刚背上已经收拾好的摄影包没有几秒钟，听到一阵沉闷的声音，我以为要地震，可是扭脸一看，哇！两匹骏马飞驰而过！一匹白马，白得干净而舒服，另一匹是棕色的，毛色纯净而富有光泽。这时我的疲劳已经无法让我再次平了那小黑妞逼出我的5秒纪录来，一阵风似的，两个俊'小伙子'就飞快地跑过身旁，消失在山坡尽头的下坡处了。我真庆幸今天遇到了那么多有趣、有惊无险和令人激动地场景，为我这次四姑娘山的游览也带来不少乐趣和非'主流'的感受，我想这也是旅行当中非常值得玩味的地方吧！大家看了我的游记也不要错过这些点点滴滴的乐趣啊！
Down the mountain.还是沿着那条从售票处上来的路下了坡，走过了一个开口向右的W之字形（即：下坡先左后右，然后又左再右就出沟了）后我到达了出口处。此时大概下午4点半钟多吧！我带着疲劳和心中的愉快回到了酒店，决定和同伴们好好措一顿以作最后的留念！晚上大家还是到了那家餐馆（一共吃了三天，店中的女孩子一直在笑，都快成亲戚了！）我们点了几个比较有特色的菜（再次抱歉，我是不善于吃的，蛋炒饭就是我的美餐，而且对于菜名有免疫力，所以什么好菜啦，进了口就忘了是什么东西了。有几次亲朋好友们招待我，问我刚才的菜怎么样啊？我支支吾吾好是尴尬，我决定吃施尔康，补充脑黄金！）然后准备买纪念品，小店沿路颇有几家品种丰富的。手镯类的大概也就10元一个吧！你如果买得多自然可以讲价格。还有项链和首饰都不错。不过要凭你的眼力挑哦，别买回来一看，呀，地铁里都有卖这个，顿时大失所望哟！ Hee hee.回酒店路上看到酒店前的桥头有个卖苹果的老汉在'推销'，看看苹果，倒是个个趾高气昂的水灵得很！于是我问了价格8毛一斤，过秤1元五毛钱，我摸出2个一块硬币给了老汉，见他从包里挖小钱找钱给我。于是我就说'2元不用找了'，老汉一愣的工夫才缓过神来（估计这带没有这样的好人啦！我是绝种？）乐得很开心，主动又塞了个大个子'趾高气昂'给我，我谢后就进了酒店打点行装去了，准备第二天搭车回成都。本来几个朋友想第二天晚点包车回成都，这样好好再看看四姑娘山，但是包车价格比较昂贵（当心：这里的司机挺黑心，从日隆镇到映秀要价往往400元，砍价最多到300，到都江堰要500，砍价到400元。而且这里基本上都是重庆长安之类的面的，连夏利都几乎没有，只看到一辆香槟色的。什么面包车、吉普车，你就别奢望了，除非你遇到包团的回去时司机愿意拉个私活儿，当然你要找对司机本人偷偷单独聊，否则游客可不答应。）所以我决定我还是搭从小金开往成都的班车，便宜！也可以感受一下当地人如何穿行于这小镇和城市之间的，毕竟和我们包车是不一样的感觉。后来也证实的确不一样，怎么个不一样？请看明天的游记吧！ :)
后面还有两天的，随后上。
注：本人为原作者，无忌上网名：莱克斯
作者：yemin_wang
