"A good person, from a hundred years ago a little older on the map to find, certainly in Guizhou, eastern Sichuan, western Hunan a ridge on the most remote and found one called" pole the town, "a small point of , where, like with the other small point, in fact, there should be a small city, in that city, to settle thousands of people. "
- Taken from the Shen Cong-wen, "Phoenix"
Sequence:
Junior summer of that year, he and several friends went with a western Hunan - Wulingyuan scenic area, Zhangjiajie towering peaks, ancient stone Furong Street and mengdong he thrill of rafting, no let me yearn afternoon a memorable one. On that occasion, just to play.
A few years later, I was to return to Hunan, to search for memories that had swept the place - Phoenix. Titles not remember in a movie, a girl alone, riding on a train bound for China Huai, channels, Changsha, she told that she was waiting at the platform in love with the boy, she was going to Phoenix. It's that simple and casual, so I vaguely remember the "Phoenix" this beautiful and ancient name. Prior to departure, has collected large amounts of data from the Internet and know where the Phoenix Shen-man, lived in the White Tower, under a girl named Tracy, Shen Lao will be called the Phoenix, "Border Town."
May be particularly fate between us, I would again choose to go to Hunan, and this long journey with a little more taste of fleeing, hoping to inquiries, the process of interpretation of the Phoenix to find peace and quiet. So, I am alone in the back of luggage, with a pure and single, set foot on my trip to western Hunan.
Prior to departure, when a friend asked me to come back, I asked a similar question with myself because I do not know the answer.
First day: September 27, 2003 Cloudy 32 ° C
Flee: Wuxi to waihua Train 1607
September 27th is my birthday last year, at the same time, I wander alone in Suzhou and Wuxi. Yesterday, ahead of schedule to celebrate with friends all night at midnight 24 o'clock, watching the bar, erotic men and women who are surging against de Gaulle in the Dance Macabre, I cried, a nameless melancholy blend with the blessing of a friend I tear flow is more than. 2:00, back home began to pack up their bags, every time out before I have been particularly excited, 6:00, and still can not sleep.
At noon, back heavy bags arrived Shanghai West Railway Station. In order to buy tickets in advance due to broken ado, lest any mishap and then took the case to a special morning. The train pulls into the hard-seat carriage that in order to be able to grab a good position where the flow of people surrounded me with crowded forward, while staying aware of the train time is adequate, but I got around the rapid breathing and footsteps confused nervous , until the find their own premises only calm down.
With the rumbling of wheels, my journey began. Train from Shanghai to Jishou will exercise 27.5 hours, long before the line and wait and did not make me feel boring, on the contrary, I would particularly like to enjoy the process, that is what I choose to ride the train rather than aircraft reason.
Out of the window while speeding off with their autumn transformation from time to time, fields of wheat (rice) coincided with the harvest period, the golden one; idly in cattle and sheep grazed in the fields Futou delicious; distant farmhouses dotted; a few dressed in beautiful scarecrow tall swaying in the wind. As the vision of the lien, I often will the farmer is also in the field farming as the Scarecrow, in the high-tech marvel at the same time, naturally attracted to one side of several colleagues who "ridicule." Away from the reinforced concrete of the city, all of nature makes me feel at ease and curiosity, along with a little autumn the storm, the whole afternoon, I lazily lie on the bed, eyes wide open, for fear of missing any touching moments.
When you sleep when you wake up, the window is the sultry dusk, carriage less noisy during the day, suddenly quiet down. The wheels of the ear is still the same sound, through the weak torch light, the brain began calculating the trip from Phoenix. The blessings and concerns of friends from time to time via cell phone text messages sent over, my birthday on the shaking ground in the carriages so spent.
The next day: September 28, 2003 Cloudy 33 ° C
After 30 hours of bumpy Chushi Phoenix: Town, Tuo river rafting, "Su" (coffee)
Train travel to Zhangjiajie, she began to frequent through the cave, light and darkness alternating with, people to produce a space-time illusion. As the train is running late, in the after nearly 29.5 hours later, he reached the Jishou station, 20 yuan during the return conductor of the tip, fill the one from Zhangjiajie to Jishou tickets. The car, a surge of hot wind blowing head, the original still in this strange place in summer to stay. I found a little effort on the Phoenix-bound CMB Jishou the car stood does not make sense of the "Shaolin Soccer", the idea is to increase a lot of bumps along the way, fun. Phoenix is getting closer away from me!
When Phoenix arrived nearly six in the evening, CMB docked at the Phoenix Simon, because Phoenix is a combination of New City and Old City, the car, really people lost in direction. Was removed a few detours, I finally found a previously scheduled family hotel - "Fishing House Inn." Inn Pro the Tuo River, being 10000 China Tower, because Tuo River, such as bow, so can not see Hongqiao and jumping rocks. Rooms are newly renovated, facilities good, weeks while the boss is a warm and smart, a typical businessman. As the name of the hotel special, I always mistakenly read as "Diaoyutai", which attract a lot of controversial attention. After booking, the boss is not given the room key, which he unified storage and open, which makes heart never free from anxiety, but desperation can only be happy to accept.
Settled later, relieved, and a few Mix together to "Killer Hotel" to eat. It was only a Linjiang seats, anxious to sit down after a few long adept point familiar from the network of the Phoenix "specialty." Owner poured a cup of tea to each person, on the one dish for free fragrant melon seeds can then be finished, just started it feel good hospitality here, and later learned the Xiangxi area This is a habit, so it is completely You're welcome. Dishes on the Qi, and two days of hard living finally dried noodles in my large stack-yi after completely forgotten. Hunan cuisine is the focus on sour, spicy, salty, taste the special weight, meal eat three square meals at the same time, we must come to point of cold beer or a dessert, or really can not stand.
After dinner, hold herself back any emotion to a pedestrian, "Tuo River Inn others," so that pack big brother took us to the night Tuo River. Wear life jackets, put on his seat, with the upper and lower stays at Penny's move, slowly driving the boat people had quietly Tuo River. Because Tuo River sub-sloping, for security reasons, an older brother just took us to tour a tower of Hongqiao to 10000 people. Cross-strait old Diaojiao Lou, sporadically with a few red lanterns hanging; Hongqiao whitewash too commercial, but only under the ship into the pier when she was only felt she was old and the vicissitudes of life. Gentle Ye Feng drove the sun's heat, so I am not so impetuous, Phoenix the night scene is the same as Hyun-Ran Guo, soft like just Bathing girl, gentle and in the surrounding humidity, people can not help Thanks for the Memories .
Tuo River Rafting back nearly 10 o'clock, still not the slightest fatigue, but Xing Italy proudly, so, decided to go clubbing. We have chosen the "prime", not only because of Mix's recommendation is due more to its simple name and an attractive coffee. "Su" is very small, built on the upper and lower two floors Diaojiao Lou, you can see by column Hongqiao, ancient occasionally in the flavor of blues. In the "prime" years for free on the bandwidth of incoming mail, to borrow books on various aspects of the Phoenix. "Su" and two bosses are particularly personality, like people calling them a "handsome" instead of the boss, they love to travel, but also for coffee and wine has a unique insight and deep research, grinding and red withered even more first-class coffee , in their eyesight, so-called petty bourgeoisie enthusiasm for Starbucks coffee, but in Dirty Water. Since I owned cafe is still shallow, could not help one's from the nearby Guangzhou, Mix, and her point of a cup of double espresso concentrate (Espresso), drink one knows why the bitter taste, so I strongly urge the sugar, natural being the boss and the Mix laughed a pass. I gesture for a while to see the boss, having learned that I am used to drinking American coffee, where he called the "Yankees of coffee", further inquiries I realize that that is three times the hot water in the Espresso Lane dollar, according to personal taste plus milk sugar. Can take the opportunity, I also studied hard for a bit of coffee different in several other red wither way.
From the "Su" came out, perhaps because of excitement over reason, they feel hungry, so we go to Hongqiao a street next to the snack to eat barbecue. To be honest, this is really the taste of barbecue general, is nothing more than a lively figure. In the way back to the hotel and saw the river side of a branch has played a small tent and felt curious, so they go to find out. Tent support a four-flat at the shore, the two candles, bottles of beer and a box of barbecue sitting beside the two women and a man, a closer examination, it recognized that one of the boys and I live in a hotel next door Mix room, one person alone motorbike came to Phoenix from Chongqing, Sichuan. We invited them sit together and talk together around flickering candlelight tour, chat live, said the ghost stories, had a good talk with each other, completely forgetting the passage of time, until you put a chilling ghost stories, big calls out into the animal after the bulk.
Back to the hotel for almost 2 o'clock, this day is too compact and too crazy, climbed the bed, her eyes began to feel the 30-hour bumpy tired, my mind filled with just a few small time Chushi Phoenix various kinds of their knowledge and insights. He Shangyan, dreams began ... ...
Day: September 29, 2003 Partly cloudy 33 ° C
Phoenix: gigantic stone bridge, Shan Jiang Miao Miao Village Museum, Ma On Shan Miao, Shen Cong-wen Cemetery
7:30 am, I woke up from his bed look, because yesterday, and Guangzhou Mix appointment from 7:01 to go mountain river Miao Village, playing off her cell phone, and the hearts of Dungan extreme guilt, blame yesterday's crazy too far, and I think she must a rage. With the shortest possible time, dressed and rushed and sounded Mix next room, he slept more than I die, really unreliable guy. Chuaizhe ray of hope, eight went to the agreed meeting place, no shadows. Hey, originally Mix is not binding as between themselves on the same tour is destined by. Big sigh, has decided to plan the same, eat breakfast, then go to Shan-Jiang Miao Village.
Shan Jiang Miao Village have previously heard of the Qing Dynasty suppression of Miao people a general uprising of the barracks, there will be the last MILLER and WONG Zhaizhong Jiuzai converted into a "Miao Museum" is worth a visit, there are special for tourists to do Hmong girls explain. The museum, according to different themes of the exhibition from 9 miaojia farmhouse, ancient residence, honest people, warriors of the home, clothing Glimpse, embroidered woman's house, the shaman hut, style park system, display of the history and folklore throughout the Miao, Miao girl patiently and carefully explaining how the story after each one exhibits. After the tour finished, I still get enough, so I put on a rented Hmong clothing, wearing heavy silver, sweet little "false foreign devils" flavor, but more than one side of the point of Hmong girl gorgeous, but without her charm. Not Guannameduo, rattled the bride ran on the second floor room, everyone had struck a POSE in the Hundred Flowers bed (the bride-bed), decorated sedan chair, vanity mirror before the good of the smug about it, is not enjoyable, but also dragging a long skirt (to tell the truth , very cumbersome), carefully climbed Diaojiao Lou, and a string of lovely red pepper photo, thinking that if what Hmong girl like me so Shangcuanxiatiao like a monkey general, really have to worry her husband's family has.
To be able to wall really simple and primitive Miao, Hmong girl through the introduction, I decided to rush from the mountains not far from the Ma On Shan Jiang Miao Miao Village. This is a yet to be developed, relatively well-preserved stone Miao Village. Along the way, small groups of Hmong children after class rumbling with laughter, there are no shoes, there are ta nose, and it has looked me straight to read. From the nursing home next to the winds on the mountain not far from a shitouzhai appear in front of the door. Zhai Men there are still small building blocks, in the outward wall opened a few holes, you can look down and observe all static and dynamic into the Village Hill Road, I heard that this is not a Miao Village in the Qing Dynasty stationed troops in Tuen Mun is the grain. Xiaoxiang Film Studio "color jacket" crew had been shot inside the stockade, and in one of the Quartet filled lake left behind a "warm and honest virtue of perpetuating" the stone. Bangshan the stockade built, patchwork, walking on the stone road, with your fingers lightly touching the sides of the stone wall, as if the long river of history exists only in the moment at the intersection fingers.
After a farmhouse, the door open, I saw a huge sow lying on the ground, lying down beside him lined up in 11 newborn piglets. I have never seen such a scene suddenly excited, immediately picking up a camera to capture this "interesting concept" but how are poor on the focal length of half a sow body, too fat! So, I suggest sitting on the side of the master sign language, and obtain her permission to prepare the door around to the back shot. I crept to go three steps, left foot into the door, Wei Zheng sow's eyes a moment, nose, breathing heavily. When I hold one's breath was about to lift his right foot, pig mother suddenly one leaps, my instinct is able to provide it to me, to attack, so scream to the retracement, only heard a commotion behind him, pending look back, the door被震ladder fell to the ground, the group of pigs has disappeared, cottage owner side of the helpless smile, still badly shaken my only features a move to apologize. Hallo! Pigs really did not expect fertilizer sensitive rapidly Henceforth, whenever seeing a total pig haunt, back away. However, the taste of the real Miao finally a worthwhile trip.
Back to Phoenix for almost 15 o'clock, the sun is no longer so strong, the sky a little haze, seemed to know that I would go to Jisao Mr. Shen Cong-wen's tomb. Chen Lao's Tomb built in Kikunami Hill, up the stairs, a colorful natural stone stands quietly, the handwriting on the carved Shenlao: "According to my thinking, can understand the 'I'; what I thought could be recognized ' people '. " Simple and solemn tombstone, there is worship left by cigarettes, from the bottom of my heart to thank those who carefully to the people still did not forget Chenlao preferences.
The evening, Qiao Xing Italy sometime in the second floor of a specialized organization to self-tour of the club, patiently listening to a lengthy introduction, a pity not interested, so, go home!
Day Four: September 30, 2003 rain cloudy 31 ° C
Phoenix: Town, Wenchang Pavilion primary schools, "Xun Gu OK", "Su" (beer)
8:00, and the time to join Mix live from the weeks leading to the road next to the owner of the hill overlooking the panoramic view Phoenix. Just go out, the sky began to intermittent Piaoqi the rain. Across the Hongqiao, she began looking at the rain of the Phoenix, which is nearly a month of time, the Phoenix for the first time it rains, hazy in the Phoenix appear to be so quiet, beating the green strands of rain drift layer of water provoked, such as yarn-like mist, was wet after the Qingshi Street Fan Chu faint blush, everything seems stagnant in general, the United States have shocked people even more fascinating. 10000 people from the street around the stone tower next to the highway, we walked wet places, boarded the debris Road, halfway up the mountain, in a flat on the houses next to the stop, the whole front of the Phoenix YR. The more the more rain the next, in order to capture clearer picture, several tall secretly boarded the commanding heights of the Mix - houses the roof, climbing over a lot of bad also stepped on the roof tiles. Should the height restrictions are not out, I will also takes numerous. Time to stay in our vision and thinking in pregnant without even realizing it, the rain stopped, Phoenix becomes clearly visible.
Phoenix is already the third day, but he still has not properly've spent town. Next to the stone along the Tuo River Street, along the way is full of shops, hotels, restaurants and bars, inadvertently patronizing toward the jumping rock. Compared to the evening, the day of jumping rock is not so terrible. Jump Rock was built in the Qing Dynasty Emperor Kangxi, across the Tuo Jiang Liangan in a total of 15 rock pier, are between six meters, total length of about 100 meters. Dance rock side of the parking space of the vessel waiting for boating, while the other side was built with a winding wooden bridge, horizontal deck 56 round fir, the middle gap. As the halo of water problems, a dizziness Jiaoruan I see the water, but do not think we go again can not be reconciled. Looking at the gurgling of the flowing water under their feet, dancing the rock is to deal with on a fairly passed away, to the wooden bridge on the only eight-character horizontal climb ability, and the opposite as long as the messenger, we must first yelled "Freeze", itself of course, stand at attention do not move, Han Yazi Well, no way! Go back and forth a lie, the unique sense of accomplishment. Riverside has several ramming clothing Huan Yi women, not to disturbed them, just quietly squatted at the side and watch them neatly beat with a wooden stick, is mulling the sake of leaving before they suddenly realize that she was still not too shore , had to bite the bullet and then jump on the rocks. After landing, bought the local white sweet potatoes (the name is not really working), peeled a fresh taste. Through the heavy gate, boarded the north gate tower, then it is connected between the North Gate and East Gate along the walls, I have phase 1 of the Dwarf white horse, it Tuozhe I stroll back and forth on the wall feels Shashi imposing.
After buying a hurry Chang Jiang Tang nearly noon, ate the last meal together after the meal, and Mix 11 say good-bye with me alone, "Herd" (title) groping Mr. Shen Cong-wen school - Primary School Wenchang Pavilion. As the National Day of the reasons, the afternoon of primary and secondary schools have been on holiday. Gates are still open, no guards, I Zhuangzhao Dan, if nothing had happened smoothly slipped into the door of one side, a few children were the name of ping-pong, I totally did not notice. Written on the walls next to the playground of the school motto Shenlao. After back and forth to explore, I found the Forest of Stone Tablets Mix very appreciated, carving the words on which alumni are words of advice, full of characteristics.
The afternoon, the Phoenix put on a new map, I put every corner of town have come full times. Phoenix is a need to thin the local taste, if only hurry, it must feel the meter is not it beautiful. Along the way pass by many famous but were cautioned not worth the money to travel attractions, such as the former residence of Shen Cong-wen, and Xiong Xiling, Chaoyang Palace, they just played closing at the door will stop there. Folk art one Street (Cross Street) there are many silver shops, are claimed to be real silver, expensive, can only patronize two small pendant. In the historians get 13, one called "Xungu line" of the batik tie-dye shop attracted me at the door a man on a white cloth with wax on one side draw the Hongqiao a scene, beside the piping hot boiling wax. I went and chatted him up, he is the store owner had called Huang Sha (Huang Li Huang Lixing or new), batik work, "town Stone Street," has won a prize, for others a very polite, but also told me in detail how to make batik. So I buy him a break pieces of work, Ruanmoyingpao's counter-offer, we feel each other fairly speculative, but also got free block headscarf.
Back to the hotel, weeks and my boss began to discuss the issue of housing prices - 11 treble, enough to hate! Mamalielie heart, but had to wipe mouth honey, left to even the best negotiating skills of the lawyers also had to Renzai. Cursory After dinner, I went to the "prime" and is only due to a "handsome" Introduction of beer - produced in the United Kingdom Boddington. He fridge out a yellow long-type cans, filled to pour on a large glass, eager asked me to taste it quickly bubble, drink one, feeling really special smooth taste, such as Cream in general, one side of the "handsome" is more intoxicated than I, and told me that this beer import transport tortuous process.
Out of the "Su", the street has become less noisy, or do not want to go back, hovering a sudden darkness throughout the Phoenix, power failures, a! I am a bit flustered, standing motionless in situ, while the locals seemed to have taken for granted, have lit candles, flashlight when I was feeling when searching the streets has resumed light transient. The decision will obediently go back to sleep, hotel owner told me that tomorrow will be 20 million strong pressure near Phoenix, was again back to a scared and decided to go tomorrow anyway to escape the city.
Day Five: October 1, 2003 Cloudy 32 ° C
Phoenix:黄丝桥古城, Southern Great Wall, guanzhuang, town, "Su" (coffee smoothie)
Phoenix and her surrounding more or less the history of war with traces of黄丝桥古城Southern Great Wall is no exception. Although the smoke was gone, and hatred has also been time to melt, but it allowed me to see a stubborn tenacious people.
China and Pakistan to open directly next to the iron railings in the village on the黄丝桥古城rock La nest, an open soon Miao Village, I did not go straight down the hill into the Village. Located in the Hunan-Guizhou border黄丝桥古城was the Qing Dynasty stationed troops in the castle, the old town is very small, around the circle at most 10 minutes. Learn from the experience of the former Mix, did not spend 25 yuan ticket to board the wall nostalgia, just want to stroll into the city. Because it is National Day, the three gates are guarded by local people, into the city but also close binary "health fee." I took the opportunity to mix a "to lead teams," eat "free meals." Seedlings have a house in the city, the tour guide said to be "County Grand Master" in Zhaizi, housing and dilapidated, County Grand Master not seen, reversing the county see an angry staring eyes too grandmother must have been Jalan pretty annoying. 黄丝桥古城should be four original city gates, but is the only remaining three, just because another "guilty of Fire", and fail to build the fire have been repeatedly destroyed. Although there is no Zhonghua Gate of Nanjing city and majestic, but too small and delicate but also just about the benefits of the people living in the city must have long since been forgotten by the flames even in March, contend from the music to live, but only retains the mettle stubborn.
The way back to Phoenix, with the shutter photographer corner of the South Wall. In fact, the real surviving remains of the South Wall a short, but now see is built for future generations to repair or Canadian built somewhat taste. Pakistan sitting on the swing and in the side of the discussion Mix trip, by chance, I came to know that a companion, a pair of Guilin, Qingdao couple and a girl. Girl riding a bicycle to make the afternoon guanzhuang, we hit it off instantly.
In the car rental side of the line of Hongqiao, will the selection of the four mountain bike, we set off. From Phoenix to guanzhuang is about 10 kilometers, back and forth enough to have a half-hour. Phoenix is still a bit hot afternoon sun was hazy and indistinct. Is the first attempt to the wild ride, just ride out a steep slope near the hit, choke full breath washed up, broken cars still can not shift speed, feet how also does not pull its weight, began to sensational movie in slow motion , the story and push the bar off. Out of Phoenix, field of vision gradually become open up the roadside river cruise the surface of the Peach Blossom Island, a small wooden boat and from the distance is the layer upon layer upon layer of terraced fields, although less than Longsheng, but do not have means. Enjoying the genial gentle wind, I drunkenly held up his left hand, shouting loudly and wantonly to release the inner surging passion. Heard a friend say that a person's heart is the size, when filled with something more than the scope will be able to accommodate overflow. All the way forward setting, my heart more freely than the birds and more pure.
Half an hour later, we stop for a rest at a farmhouse. The toilet has long been aware of miaojia built sty years, this time was forced to taste the taste of this embarrassment. A master's permission, I Niezhebizai to the "toilet" advance, but the pig did not see, but never back out of a big yellow dog, because dogs have been before, so scared I made a sudden heart attack, his eyes a discredit not breathe. Master see my face was pale also Huang Leshen, hastens helped me to sit down and drink water to rest 10 minutes after they were restored bloodless, while the Natiao large yellow-dog is a dog with a baby lying on my front and well-behaved in wagged his tail.
Move on, I was an air together. But had left less than a few steps, Guilin Mix the car has a problem, a foot slab fell down, so they appeared in a scene one leg cycling scene, we had to Kuzhongzuoyue. Has finally come to guanzhuang, in addition to more unique suspension bridge, the island is also an amusement park and barbecue in general, and before leaving Shihai was confiscated one dollar health expenses. In fact, the results are not important, in the enjoyment of this road and the pain and pleasure, we are very satisfied. Return when it is sunset, the wind cool together. Due to exhaustion, we have stopped the vehicles along the CMB, so that also enjoy a bike ride back to the taste.
Tomorrow, leaving the Phoenix, and the last time to "prime" taste of their characteristics - Italian coffee smoothie. Lie on the windowsill before, lit candles, Phoenix, or so-ning and night, then Yizhenyihuan at this time what you do not want to, just Yonglan to listen, to see, to smell.
Tired, Hao Chou, good enjoying to day.
On the sixth day: October 2, 2003 between the rain Cloudy 18 ° C
Phoenix: La-Er-Shan go to the market Jishou: Snack Street
Phoenix had not really enjoy the dawn, Xing Zhong heard the other side between the ear, "storm clan hall," where a local fancier's Jing Qiang, a stand up to wear clothes, I hastened to rush balcony burst of bone-chilling wind hit him, good Cold! Phoenix is a hazy morning, the quiet, refreshing the. Once again boarded the hillside overlooking, and she was binding as a beautiful picture, people lingering dismay.
Phoenix is not going to go to the market would have regretted it, and eating breakfast when the inquiries from the boss at the day marked the seventh day the lunar calendar, in the December Fall Mountain a big set, so decided to go along for the ride.
Originally built in the mountains for the market was very puzzled, after inquiries before December-to-know the heart of Seoul mountains are Hmong, but also the hideout of the bandits entrenched, very steep terrain. CMB Wuchao River Bridge - "gigantic stone bridge" small stops after a known as a natural barrier of the wax onto Fall Hill. Turned a few corners, the car parked in a small town built on top of the hill - the town of wax Seoul. La-Er-Hill Fair brought together experts from Hunan, Guizhou and Chongqing provinces of the Miao, the busiest time is noon. Although the arrival time of early days, but many people in the market carrying baskets of the Miao people to come to a fairground scene. As the Miao people does not speak Mandarin, so difficult to communicate with up to also make do with half-guessed half understanding. Walking and suffered with the local food specialties of a sudden, Mix eyes locked in a hold on the ground of small cages, which closed a black fur, the small guy grimace in pain, one side of the Mix gently told me that a "wild boar." As I was surprised to observe it at the same time, Mix had proudly bought it and let the boss 'get clean'.
Visited the circle at the market, the feeling and our farmer's market or less the same things to sell, and not presented in the less attractive, on the contrary are relatively backward and dyeing characteristics of the Miao and silverware are not many, but the citrus and Kiwi would be delighted rich, and the price was so low you feel like a looted, as one dollar on the Pentagon can buy a dozen kiwi, fun country fair is manifested from here. After 11 o'clock, the entire market began to transpiration up everywhere, voices, packed roadside bamboo basket filled with a loaded ducks, stinking. In the market corner, gambling in a sieve, I and Mix on the carrying "wild boar" and the Kiwi, Le Zizi's return to Phoenix in.
At noon, looking for a long time, finally found a hotel chef is willing for us to process, unfortunately, only a small "wild boar", but the chef a look at its claws, laughed, saying that this is not a wild boar, is there any long-pig claws? Should be a hoof Well! To this end, a good face-saving Mix has also been catch up with the kitchen, and his theory, and we are laughing at the side of the endless. Because it is game, could eat of all packaged with a boarded, rushed to our next destination - Deben.
In the evening, we went to Hunan Jishou famous snack street state capital early adopters, Mix put forward the "Three Represents, study," Gongchoujiaocuo some, the dream, they flash a lingering shadow of the Phoenix floating.
Seventh day: October 3, 2003 between the rain Cloudy 16 ° C
Deben: Aizhai, De Ben Miao Village, Pan Gu Feng, flow yarn falls, folk performances
Run-down car all the way forward, Deben in the end there is what cultures? Looking out the window the familiar Xiangxi land, my mind has always circled this unfamiliar name in the Hmong mile "Deben" means "beautiful valley." Vehicles to pass through to Aizhai town, the town next to a highway Hunan Chongqing section of the most trapped. At the level of 100 meters between the 13 bends, vertical rising several hundred meters, in order to build this road have been killed or injured a lot. Unfortunately, Lex is just a moment, and we will be straight to the car moved into the village Deben.
Deben Village is built in a canyon in a small village, surrounding scenery, especially those high mountains and tall and straight, and Zhangjiajie very similar, only difference is due to the presence of this small village, only to make this canyon glow vitality.
Upon entering Zhai Men, Hmong girl from a distance, they heard the songs. Village not far, there is a very flat open space, a large-scale folk customs zhaili performances are built on its site within a circular, 10 o'clock is "Miao folk wedding dress performance," three in the afternoon is "a large Hmong folk activities - pull-drum. " Performance colorful, attractive, performing the process will be invited to participate in the audience of visitors. The so-called pull-drum, that tug of war rope, tied one of the two oval-shaped drum break, when the host invited visitors to play 20 games, the sudden outcry from the rush to the nearly four weeks the name of momentary excitement of people get out of control situation. The grand finale event is a unique blessing ceremony, Miao, indeed full Kengren, and the host's instigation, visitors Qi battle and actors from the field in the circle with the altar in the hands of the charcoal picks up the charred face of the wipe. Crazy people around, chasing, shouting, all of them have become a black face Stars and Stripes, I am no exception, were four small group Miao pursuit and interception, and to the site, and a Hmong Zunrong handsome souvenir photo.
If you have physical strength, that tall, "Pangu peak" is sure to conquer and take a distance, the Deben to do by the fundus. In the canyon Shenhe in Kowloon along the river, walking on the narrow terraces on the Dragon's Back, from time to time to make way for oncoming cattle, meandering about one hour gap between the country's largest "stream yarn waterfall" YR they pop up. Address the waterfall, the water is very small, there is no unique of the Department, but when you detour along the path to the waterfall on the back, looked up, the stretching of the water droplets as the gravel-like pouring down from the high-altitude, as its name, "stream yarn "Graceful like. If you have not enjoyable, you can also get on rafts to the waterfall, so that droplets of arbitrary knocked on your body, I think that is the "flow of yarn waterfall" of different bar!
Deben night cold and wet, sprained his right foot when going out at night by the local medical some old seedlings after treatment, but unfortunately cursory night's sleep.
8th ~ 10 days: in October 2003 between 4 to 6 rain Cloudy 16 ° C
Return to Hibiscus Town, staying at hotels mengdong he lovely big bed, go to the market return: Huai China to get on the ground Freeze Wuxi Train 1608
Because severely sprained right foot and can not walk, only chartered the way, from the Deben back Jishou, direct rushed Hibiscus Town (Wangcun).
Guo Furong in five years to come, to re-visit familiar places, the feeling is really distressing. A fire destroyed a lot of old buildings along the street of small shops selling a similar tourist souvenirs, fake silver one will be home soil identification, hotel prices alarmingly high, dry waterfalls Piaoman of rubbish, really regret not The again, the Phoenix or the Deben is the second Hibiscus Town do? I dare not think about. In the Hibiscus Town most of the time in mengdong he spent in hotels. Hibiscus Town on the day to leave the morning, I was to catch a set of boring.
The return to Shanghai, and I desperately want to escape this place. Get on the train return journey, and my heart empty, and fled in the past few days, the feeling was always a force pulling forward from the starting point returned to the starting point, there is leave there Return Journey, after all, I do not belong to this land.
Are familiar with the computer desk stocked with a large bunch of yellow roses mother purposefully chosen Shanghai's night in the cold and dark strands of rain drift began Piaoqi, looking out the window, my eyes moist.
Postscript:
Lipton black tea fragrance to permeate the house, ears still soft piano music. After reading Mr. Shen Cong-wen's "Border Town", rubbing it with pieces of indigo batik wall, back, and then back, flowing Tuo River, carrying a thousand years of history, it is quiet and peaceful in the surging fortitude and tolerance.
Phoenix, a border town vicissitudes but facial, you have deeply engraved in my memory.
Author: halliewy
