After five years of work has been on vacation, do not have to designate the 51 and National Day in the crowd, crowded like the shuttle, and finally a long enough time to be able to look out of Jiangsu and Zhejiang and the country. After a considered, the final destination of the long-distance travel for the first time the election is not too far away from Shanghai in southwestern Fujian, plans tour Citylink, Tulou, Xiamen three points to Tulou as the center, other attractions as the case to be determined.
The travel time of 9 days (2 days 2 nights on the train). Removal of photography apart from the expenses of two people actually spend some 3200 million, of which 1144 yuan round-trip ticket.
November 19 morning, back backpack carries printed out dozens of pages of material thick, rushed to the south of Shanghai Railway Station get on the train, started West Fujian Minnan trip.
(A) - Lin Shing's Guanzhai Mt: "upstream first view" of the Hakka Kamiyama November 20, sunny changing to rain, Lin Shing.
At 4:37, the train arrived at Wing County, Sanming City, sitting surface (2 yuan / person) to the bus stop. In the dark is difficult to see the true face of small town. Point of eating only porridge and then do nothing and wait, but fortunately there are sent to the Citylink 5:40 CMB (19 yuan / person).
Cars in heavy fog in the mountain gallop, there is some concern. Scattered when the fog together, the spread would like to see the distant peaks floating in the cloud, as seen in the previous year in the Lushan Wu Laofeng general, but really exciting.
After more than two hours to Citylink, this time has been clear up in days. Called a human tricycles (4 million) to Guanzhai Mt afar, that "upstream first view" of the main peak has really very much like an athlete's foot medicine ads appear large Jiaoya, said seniors do not Mix virtual. Delegate votes at the hillside, the way you can see the whole mountain's only a welcoming pine (the rest are in various campaigns after the founding of a light had cut), did not intend to go to Shimen Lake (30 yuan / person) but only mountain climbing (30 yuan / person).
Called "North Yinan tai, Danxia Shuangjue," I have not been to Mount Wuyi, Wuyi Mountain scenery such as the crown but, like tai, then I will certainly be disappointed. Guanzhai Mt scenery can not say that is not good, the mountainous peaks, frequently done a superb job of the rocks, but one of the mountains, water (Shek Mun Lake Guanzhai Mt side of the new reservoir, presumably speaking mountain lake should still good), only This can not be compared and possession of Jiuqu stream of Mount Wuyi. The mountains there is a road-hop and waterways, if there are mountain streams after heavy rain that would be Tim had a lot of color; the other scenic spots with a narrow and close proximity to County (distance 1.5 km) from the earth, or near some, it reminds me of Unzen Du Jin Fu Yung Gap, but the hibiscus Gap Creek across the country also has music, from the heights overlooking the idyllic scenery is very attractive, it seems off than Guanzhai Mt is the county seat after the next village to look good.
Guanzhai Mt climbing is very laborious, because the Hill several times, have to climb a few mountains, there are many tourists come from the Shihmen Lake carp in the climbed them have been loudly behind a moral one, not knowing at least one carp back then. But Hill is not dangerous, unless like we do wrong to a bare rocks. Longevity Pavilion highest point is indeed infinite scenery, mountains and fight Tsui, bare earth and rock has a trace of red. But what has been used as a selling point of the "root of life" does not like posters on the tall, but also Danxiashan think of that is also less than some.
Guanzhai Mt to college is known for more than a pity that there is now become the Tourism Bureau site, while others locked the door, then hung Lin Tse-hsu, "Esa romantic" and Ji Xiaolan "Progress Dongshan" plaque Higashiyama thatched cottage is changed Canada became a hotel buffet. Refurbishment of a few more cultural attractions in general not better. LITHOGLYPHS to the Southern Song Dynasty from Daru Luo Yan's "tough stand like a wall 1000" the most precious stone, but the manager is in these areas before the close of a pavilion built. Guanzhai Mt ancient inscriptions are in the lower and the maximum of the most eye-catching silver coated in that it is the former provincial secretary, how many people are also a little disappointed.
In general, Guanzhai Mt failed to give the feeling of people with stunning, but still worth a visit. Thatched Cottage on the side of the thin strip of sky Dongshan, that "Hakka Kamiyama," the stone will remind us that here is the Hakka hinterland. The next few days, we will be guests in the Hakka homeland.
(B) - 4, City Link's Fort: Can Bai's carving workshop the afternoon of the ancient books sitting Pakistan (4 yuan / person) to four堡镇to see the last remaining block printing base in China. On the way passing through a large town, happened to catch up with meetings, piles of piles of 4 oranges 1 yuan jin, there are a lot of mats, brooms, basin and other kinds of groceries, a great clamor.
Ancestral Hall by the wrinkle converted into a museum (20 RMB / person) in town, the afternoon in addition to our two other people did, and so only see the administrator of the Lao Bantian fetch the key. One can see a large number of engravings, old books, and woodblock printing tools, pictures, written materials, introduces the history, geography and the four Fort Ancient Bookstore distribution. Pocket-sized version of the famous book, "The Analects" is also displayed in the museum, only 6 cm long or so, handwriting was very clear, text with large font size, annotation with a small number, in my view these pocket-sized book or in the possibility of cheating tool maximum.
Woodblock printing technology take full advantage of its superior place movable type, size the use of flexible, subtlety typesetting, graphics and appearance, and some even spend colored packaging, be called beautiful. Fort, and then four Suzhou, Hangzhou, Fujian Jianyang adding four block printing bases, wuge Chow, Ma house Markov family of products have been sold both at home and abroad, and even has its own copyright, which also must be crowded with four Fort Today, only here for his next shift Zuozuo already Bookstore and scattered with ancient folk engraving, old books are still here, quietly hinted that the origins of poetry, and in our view, four fort has been no different with the general town.
Wuge village to the museum close by, Chow carefully the three brothers to create a sub-jen scattered outside the house with a variety of tools, while the hall is the site became a carpenter. Frankly speaking, what are the characteristics Bookstore Building I can not see, sub-jen house is a living Koubou combined, it looks like the same courtyard apartment complex in general no difference could be seen nothing more than a good texture with a blue brick, walls and roofs are generally more hard-tall mountain-style only. Wuge village buildings are in disrepair for years and the inclusion of many new brick house, from which it is hard to imagine the case of the year.
Got a three scooters (1 yuan / person) to the horses house entrance to the village there is a flat wooden covered bridges in the tree after Yusha bridge cover. Hui He wood color, three small Xieshan Ding separation ends and the middle of the bridge, the idea is truly a pleasure. However, compared to the Smart Taishun sixi Shuangqiao penetration refined and Longquan Yonghe Bridge spectacular atmosphere, it becomes common in Yusha bridge. The ancient Maya buildings relative to save even more complete. Step in the gravel road in the village track, both sides are both tall brick gable, how many have the feeling back into the past, but you do not see what the Bookstore which are houses, historic houses in the same long-term neglect, could not find Maya's "Ringland Hall," but the village's houses, compared to sub-renju to see smaller. Entrance to the village do have the 13 into a large house there are two tall flagpole in front of the door not locked into the room may be ancestral hall.
Out of the village found that from Citylink to the end of four Fort CMB is Maya, just back to the county seat. It began to rain heavily. One night, found a hostel (70 RMB / night), independent health and hot bath, but a TV has revised the Lao Bantian Dounong no signal, and finally for a room.
(C) - Lin Shing's Pei Tian: Wizard-clear Hakka luxury November 21, overcast with light rain, Lin Shing.
The station was ready to get up early to take Pakistan first friend I do not want to happen to have a car via propaganda and direct Pui Tin (6.5 yuan / person), 8:40 start, our car more than an hour before to. From Citylink to pui fields, there should be only two shuttle back and forth every day.
Castle Peak, green water, old house, Pui Tin can at least say I have been to one of the most beautiful old villages, its villages and the preservation of the integrity of the original ecological comparable pre-Tong, construction quality is slightly Morrison Yuyuan. The only unpleasant off from the Pakistani state into the church, following shortly after the entrance to the village of the conductor came on the track so that we have to buy two tickets (20 yuan / person), kiosks in the 100 meters away, separated by a few Road Zhaizi do not see Ji-shu-tang, it is estimated that we were being informed of the villagers.
Pei Tin Hakka houses unique "9 Hall 18 Well" structure. The standard "9 Hall 18 Well" Indeed there are nine halls (central axis 5 into the Hall: gate hall, rear hall, the next hall, central hall, the hall, plus a downstairs room, upstairs hall, left Floral Hall, right Floral Hall A total of nine positive hall), left and right outside the central axis taken the two homes, 18 patio used to get light. Each courtyard and the surrounding housing to form a separate courtyard, the courtyard between the channels connected to the door opened a 18 yard free to move around, Everywhere also familiar, such as into the maze, while the access door was shut has become a small single detached family homes, mutual non-interference.
The actual situation is flexible. Such as the entrance to the village of Wu Ji Shu Tong (Tai Fu Tai), axial, and the left are all standard style, while the right side not even taken the three homes, as a whole is very large, far more than 18 yards, the room is numerous. In addition to the main axis into the hall a few things, so have a large number of four residential halls, or forward or lateral, respectively, stood for the ancestral tablets (which may be a branch). The courtyard is mostly planted with flowers, and some has even modified a little corner of the courtyard into a small living room, and some wells and expansive courtyard is a washing place, living here should be very comfortable and convenient. Following the state tells us that the residents of Hall Lane, where the access door open at night off during the day, security and privacy also have to consider. Following the state court in the later there is a craftsman into the room, with a door connected to following the state court.
The village, "9 Hall 18 Well" There are more than a dozen buildings, but smaller scale than in state court following the big three are generally maintain the style. "Nine Hall 18 Well" in halls and housing have clear planning and structural linkages, therefore, as Ji-shu-tang such as large buildings should be designed in advance rather than constantly adding out. Room of the house as his family's ceremonial center axis Needless to say, both sides of the dozens of small gardens live hundreds of people, does Wu ancestors from the beginning of building a reserve for two or three generations after a large number of residential? Housing allocation or a branch here will be what kind of concept? "Nine Hall 18 Well" capacity than was seen in Tulou to or a bit smaller, but the characteristics of the Hakka clan gather no doubt continue to reveal.
Pei Tamura village are surnamed Wu, which makes us somewhat puzzled. Later, in Yongding, the locals tell us a name and address anywhere Hakka custom, or given in marriage where the wife's family to change the local name, so that a person has two surnames is not unusual to carry us early tour of the Albanian Telegraphic Nanxi River, there 2 Su, Li 2 last name, can be called. The villagers are very hospitable to see our total to drink tea, and some also invited to drink to eat. With the cable in front of tickets, but experience always feel that such hospitality has been playing a bit of discount.
The center of the village is a kilometer or streets, from the architectural style of view should be a commercial street, but now no one to do business. Street on both sides there are many ancestral halls, generally called "a Ancestral Hall" to two into a small hospital for multiple. Wu did not find a large ancestral temple, in the Fujian Province are burned next to a three-House of Yin Hing Tong, only the room of the house there is no wing, inverted block has the stage, looking Tingxiang ancestral hall. Pei Tian Sun City is the outflow from the village, too, so the village on the River connected by water, it's very much like the previous child. Ancient Street in the 1000 meters on both sides of each one on the water-chuan, an anhydrous, but water a very anxious when the water is clear when mixed.
Stroll in the village knew the had more than three hours. To generally allow Tian Yan Pei Square was initiated, in order to winding Nanshan College, the College is now located at the foot of the ancient primary and secondary schools there is a passage leading, mid-term of the buildings have been converted, a new, do not see the original appearance, the college auditorium behind a It was in the cooking, was later found to be preparing lunch for the pupils. Has turned out more than 20 students and three Whampoa Dr. Nan Shan College has become the primary schools of the iceberg, this result is not bad, is it.
2:00 PM sit back Citylink CMB, to pengkou (3.5 yuan / person), the 12 minutes after riding from the direction of coach Changting to Longyan (19 yuan / person), just two vacancies . Scenery along winding Li, it is a long period of time there is a roadside river, the mountain split in half. Two hours later arrived in Longyan City. Longyan looks more like the beginning of a county, while the planning is chaotic, it was hard to feel affinity for. Do not know what the city look like, and whether it will be as if the small town of Jiujiang in Lishui, or the excitement. Be able to catch the last train to the Lake Pit (4:50 start, 17 yuan / person), bought a box lunch on the road.
(D) - The Yongding Earthen chapter: Fog Creek locals say the beginning of the lock, "Tulou" are referring to Hung Dongkeng Town Lake Village, or called "Tulou Hakka Cultural Village," there are visitors to the Most places close 40 yuan tickets. From Longyan to the pit lake is more than two hours, eyes wide open Wang Chuangwai see, seeing to high when the sky was dark Bei Zhen, Leng yes did not see a Tulou. Until the pit near the lake, only vaguely see the headlights illuminate the road on both sides of a block wall, I do not know the floor is a large or small.
7:00 pm until the lake pit, under the light rain, Motor Bus drivers do not Tulou, give us both motorcycle drivers to take us into that ticket as long as 25 yuan / person. Not long after, that is called "A Link" motorcycle drivers riding with his uncle came, and kind enough to introduce us to talk about price, apparently for many years with a skilled passenger travel. Motorcycle also has held more than 10 minutes to reach the Culture Village, the darkness, the lights dim corner of Ying Liang Zhen Shing House, the tall and depression.
Do not want to waste effort to find shops, living in the Albanian Telegraphic vibration introduced into the House of subsidiary Kobo (40 yuan / night). Boss also requested the tea, and then spent a great deal of work presented to us Earthen tourist routes, and finally said that we accept dynamic chartered (1 day / 200 yuan two motorcycles, travel back to the beginning of Stream and South Stream Hung Hang, asking price 130 yuan / a car), in-room bed Daoshi great, but the toilet from the floor, out the back door, which abuse the plastic, wash is also downstairs. The boss gave us two invalid ballots in the day to vote for future reference.
November 22, overcast with light rain, Yongding.
6:00 more than get up, sit Albanian Telegraphic and uncle first went to the beginning of a motorcycle starting Creek. Did not expect the road is so far away, the taxi companies to the next three quarters of an hour before Western towns (Yongding and Nanjing General reminds me of Tai-shun, it looks to the next town, rather like the ocean Taishun Shi xiangyangzhen), there is a way to meet Blessing of the General Assembly held in the village and invited all the theatrical troupe, a great clamor. Yang stopped to eat breakfast to the next, beef balls (2 RMB / bowl) taste really good. From under the ocean to the river even three quarters of an hour early.
The road came to do is Tulou, quantity as much as greatly surprised me. I thought Earthen points exist only in a few rare objects, only the vibration into the floor, cement floor, pit Chaintech be called Tulou. But in fact it is the most common local Earthen buildings, however, absolutely dominant, and many villages have a body mass better than vibration into the floor, a small Tulou, brick house has become a vassal. Earthen saw no less than two days, hundreds along the way, so that later no more new ideas, some lack of eyes.
Creek should be the beginning of earth-rise buildings in Yongding, I saw the most beautiful-rise buildings, a mountain streams across from the front, followed by a party on the slopes of three four and medium-sized circular arc Tulou was arranged, and then followed by a large medium-sized and small Tulou to the distant spread. Unfortunately, we arrived to the left, the beginning of river has always been kept in a layer of thick fog, and occasionally to disperse what they also do not see the distant hills. The initial half hidden in a mysterious river gives the United States, but it also tones the whole picture is not easy neighbor cold.
View from the viewing audience set Hing House, is the first Tulou Yongding, the first time into the earth storied house and was surrounded by hundreds of small room, can not help being shaken by its huge. Qing House is a unique set for each unit (from the first floor to the fourth floor of four bedrooms, as a unit) has a staircase Tulou, there are partitions between the various units is entirely single detached households. Ah Tong said that this floor as "deviant" because a Hakka Earth Buildings in respect of a family, generally four to eight public stairs, each floor is opened up, not divided into small family to make the. Not long ago, this building has been renovated, said repairs would be out before the stairs insecure people, and now this place has very few living people, a partition wall between cells have also been removed.
Creek from the beginning, it's also a half-hour motorcycle ride. On his way to the village overlooking the stream on a triangle-shaped and Tulou are actually two side floor, built in tight causing the illusion. Also at the Yueh-Hsia Tseng Village (where the name of the village really nicely) to see Wing Hong House.
Yongding Earth Building is the beginning of the main inscription Creek, Hung Hang, high-rise buildings, as well as the first three soil Yan Xiang, Zhen Fu, Yong-Kang 3 Tulou. Mix in the past did not see a reference travels Wing Hong House, so it is we plan to harvest outside. Wing Hong House is relatively small, but very refined, rather special group of their church buildings and not, as commonly in the middle, but from the hall after the floor leading to the formation of a central axis, another hatchback is completely two-courtyard style, the hall after the 6 gold-wood doors that we see in this line Earthen finest works of art, must have two of these two in order to decorate Sheng Wu Yi, known Tulou, its engraving power also to the standard bar. Yongkang Lou Zhu is a woman, their husbands and children have to go abroad, building to the population are not many. Yueh-Hsia Tseng Village, many overseas Chinese, overseas Chinese in the village Earthen all been paid for wiping white, looked strange against Road.
In the month when the village stream, Ah Tong has come up with ideas when it comes to his uncle's house for dinner, 10 yuan / person cheaper than the hotel, we have accepted, food is pretty rich, there are about 78 fish and ducks.
Nanxi afternoon, the nearest distance is much more a first-ring-level floor, the owner or whether you drink tea, and so we are out the door before coming to ask us for money (5 yuan / person). Central-level building to seismic and echo is known, when a major earthquake had on the wall shaking out the one-meter-wide hole in was actually slowly heal. External point of view we do You Jidao cracks, it is difficult to tell whether it is caused by the earthquake, because the local Earthen small cracks are not uncommon. Echo is a very real and some, but not a very bold sound that has dragged on, but standing in the middle of the voice sounds thicker than any other place more emphasis on more Atsushi only. Central-level floor is not a rare group of Yongding Church Tulou, Connaught Grand fort center of a circle, and perhaps not surprising echo bar.
Not to the real good viewing platform, but rather to a water supply station on the hilltop. Nanxi village water comes from mountain streams down the hill cited, brawl was diverted to the reservoir may flow in the river again brawl, looked very strange to waste. Villagers to change the habits of the past to use well water, probably did not water than before the. Nanxi Earthen equally large number of cross-strait Yanxi water stretches several kilometers, but not if the hierarchy of the early Creek, level clear, but seemed haphazard look. The viewing platform is probably the least engaging and of a high head, the next it is better than Osaka, cement pit viewing platform will be charged 20 yuan / person, no see.
Yan-xiang floor is a viewing audience, but also charge equal to 5 yuan / person, there is no re-enter. A pass took us to see his own family Tulou. A small round building, probably built only three to four decades, but has stood amid the gateway, missing a mouth. The Albanian Telegraphic said to be built when the tile floor did not cover actual results seepage of water, when the voice of a huge slump floor. Lou is now only home to the Albanian Telegraphic parents and elder brother, soon deserted. Such a residual building, recently been discovered and branded travel company "U-type Tulou" label, made into a poster!
To continue to back, looked at vibration FLO (5 yuan / 2), building to happen in the performing puppet show, two puppets vivid, voice is also just right, very natural, that we did not understand talking about. Many books, zz from sina said the vibration is a vibration into the floor, Fu F, a sister building, the Lin family is built. This is not to say hatton, he said, calling the source of sister F, because F 2 is the same architect designed the vibration into the floor is finished, immediately after the blessing on the floor, made of vibration. Zhen Fu House and the Lin family has nothing to do, but you are wealthy people and houses, the same gossip position, the same fine. Zhen Fu Lou Men and the courtyard are the side of the concave look inside, with wall to form an angle, is said to be able to being the South, from the Lou Men are also working through the courtyard on the upper reaches of streams, rolling financial resources, two tributaries of the upper they could only see one, that the financial non-take-all, may leave more to the downstream.
Out the vibration FLO A pass can go to Lee's ancestral home, said there are now many tourists have to see. Thirty or forty miles away from here, not Tulou Run in, but can be "free" to send us to, we chose to return to Hong pit.
Back to Hong pit has been more than four o'clock. Indeed, all the way over long distances on a motorcycle 100 yuan / day the price while not cheap, but reasonable. There CMB cars to the South Stream and Lower Western town, but only found one.
Look at the cultural village, followed by Fu Yu House, such as the l House, Kui poly floor, and back vibration into the floor. Many say that this cultural village is a Mix of the mall, even the Albanian Telegraphic uploaded here, the Japanese guests did not say that the atmosphere of the Earth Building. On the ground are well-paved with pebbles, and he has planted large areas of lawn, there is already a typical tourist attraction rather than a "village". But have to say is that Tuyangjiehe's "Earthen Prince" vibration into the floor, the former low-high as the palace-like after the Wufeng Lou Fu Yue House, House in the construction of the magnificent Club House Kui Fang F, are poly - the national key cultural relics protection units, also comes with a pocket-sized floor, such as the l floor. West Fujian famous Tulou are widely scattered, and only Hung Hang a full range to be able to focus on the case but maintained a relatively well-rise buildings, not to be missed.
For some tourists, this one visit is enough to experience the Tulou, if Culture Village to meet the needs of most visitors may travel company will give up early Nanxi Xiabandi Creek and other places where the development and let try to keep the original Ecology, right? Zhen-Fu House already changed Tulou museum, text, image data is still there on the ground went through a wall decoration, and later Earthen inscription did not succeed in 2006 is said to wait until the boss flew leave. I would like to have been developed since the Hung Hang mature, to guide tourists to go there on the multi-bar.
Here is said over the weekend, there will be a large number of tourists to visit during the day and how busy we do not know, but a lot more hostels Li Ren, the two middle-aged women are from Shanghai, and there is a teacher in Xiamen, one of Canada's men carrying a comparatively older female partners. Do not know if they can not abuse the habit. A pass is still begin to discuss tomorrow's trip, but we decided as long as they get a trip to high-head or under the tower can be, spending a day or half-Quan Pei too.
(E) - The Nanjing Tulou chapter: When the Earth Building in South November 23, sunny, Nanjing.
Get out of bed around 7:00 am, it was a time when the sun had just come out, but also entered into the vibration into the building to shoot some pictures. Sunday hatton any other business, would let his uncle a man to carry us through the high head and then to the next tower to us 20. Later, we went to the book containing foreign motorcycle driver that we had slaughtered.
High-head is still Yongding construction site not far from the Hong pit, the companies had about five minutes to 1:00 on the first climb observation deck. Compared to South Stream and the beginning of river, the high-rise buildings of a small number of the first soil, but because the "King of Earth Building" Chaintech floor in, the main quite prominent, and Dawn in a side building to the rising smoke curl, also touching down.
Chaintech floor is great, but the very limited, while the local body of a huge amount of Tulou are not uncommon. A need to pay 30 yuan / person for tickets, eyeing the door security was watching us, we could not go. Missed the four rings, leaving some small regret. The main body of inscription in Nanjing river Earthen pits, cement pit complex as well as soil Huaiyuan Merlin House, and your floor, 2 floor, so we head through the tower from the high, the next line of Osaka and then to cement pits not involved in Nanjing Earthen is the mainstay.
Yongding relatively speaking, more higher mountain Nanjing, the environment, as most of the Tai-shun, while those Tulou, are tucked away in a mountain village under appears to be very insignificant. This road is very beautiful natural scenery, mountains, forests, streams, some advertising hype than the scenic eastern Zhejiang no less.
Day, the biggest gain from tower, a very charming village. Highway there is always accompanied by a stream, water is limited, can be under the surface of the water tower suddenly open, water flows gently, after a number of low dam to form three-step jump, the villagers were then washed in this river. A stone bridge connecting the village on both sides of two old people on the bridge chess, at first glance like in live south. The difference is that there is no pillow River cross river homes and Lang Peng, and the Tulou are still contiguous, physical volume of medium or lower side. Like the comfort of relaxed, living in towers seem to disregard the next year, which month the outside world look like, just leisurely to taste this small bridges people, taste the lazy idle life.
There are signs that will guide us to found the famous Zhang Family Temple, a dozen root towering flagpole Shilong quietly tell the advent of this village is not something the pursuit of fame and also, from the Ming and Qing dynasties it was not until. Unexpected finding is that two new Shilong flagpole in 2000 after the legislature, and not the purpose of fame is written for the descendants of his mother's birthday a hundred years. Longevity village does not appear to exist in name, but it is not small in terms of cost to the village, right?
Walking near the river went to the "apron flat" Yude House, the first four post-3, when a fire burned by the warlords, and later rebuilt on the former half of just repair. That three-story building behind the walls mottled bear, saying it was not like some aprons.
Under the tower is another motorcycle drivers to pull our business and finally down through the next to talk about Osaka, cement pit to Shuyang a total of 33. From the tower next to the next Osaka, Osaka from the bottom to the cement pits are not far, that is, when the last paragraph of the larger waste, then the driver said that if the live snail pit, someone will open up to the price of 50 yuan Shuyang.
Next Sakamura Yuchang F (5 yuan / 2) is indeed worth a visit, previously know that it is because the "rickety," the pillars, and later introduced it to listen to know that this House is the oldest of the Earthen Nanjing (built in the Yuan Dynasty) , building to a water well per unit is an extremely rare Tulou, a total of more than 20 wells, and now the former half of the decline in water quality have been closed, followed by 11 wells still in use, water quality Qinglie, the water level above the ground and would not overflow, is very Interesting.
As for the rickety pillars is singular, Yuchang House floor, a long busy decoration, a brief description of a moment, saying that this Tulou funded by the five families (the Hakka? Fukienese?), Originally planned to build seven, and later only complete the five-story, while the fifth floor was built after the had never actually used, rickety so far no one can explain the reasons. Carry us very much believe that the driver was a local legend: the investor when the construction of the next two pairs of master carpenter hospitality well, but the third floor began to Shique mistreatment of the instructors are reluctant to silver, so instructors are built on to the face of this rickety看. Yuchang floor, used for several hundred years does not topple, and instructors are really lenient in. Only now there are a lot of fences that had already been down, floors are also creak Wah-Wah.
Back to Shanghai in the bookstore, reading a book home floor, they find Yuchang floor also holds a record: it is the highest round of Fujian floor.
House out of the village not far from the Yuchang there is also a viewing platform, hiding in a roadside tea, the route simply never had to climb to the very abolition of repair strength, there is no driver to take really do not know. Next Sakamura just caught in the two high mountain valley in front of the circular floor, a few blocks square floor, and almost no other new buildings, scenery less but significantly better than the beginning of Nanxi river is very charming.
There are two not far out of Xiabandi Road, down towards the Osaka, is also a rise buildings, going up a few hundred meters will be able to look to cement pit, and five golden flowers at this time is more like a fortress built on the Mid-Levels, or large group palace. However, Snail Pit viewing platform is now we have to pay 20 yuan / person, we did not watch it from the field exposure the highest rate of soil-rise buildings, but also leave some regrets. Interestingly, the cement pit soil complex in Nanjing, in many publications and people's mouth is "Five Golden Flowers", to the Yongding, where it has always been known as the "four dishes and one soup."
Books, not far from the ocean to the Merlin and lofty floor and your floor, respectively, from the book Ocean town of about 5-10 km distance only, but can also incidentally the largest tour Yu Yuan Shun House floor, House and Linhe side floor of Dan Qiaocun Changyuan , you may have to spend half a day. We went to Xiamen, shuttle, decided not to read.
13:00, from Merlin the direction of long-distance bus arrive Shuyang, vehicle astounded and sat in the aisles are filled with people, only give us a small bench. From Hong pit direction has a bus to Xiamen Western classics, but do not know will not be so crowded. Down the prices of cheap: 22 million (more than three hours).
Some very fond memories from here, saw the beginning of the bus circled the mountain for a long time, and then gradually allowed to enter the flat on the road, saw the beginning of the roadside villages have Tulou, not rare, and then gradually fewer and fewer places in the field of vision was finally disappear.
(F) - Xiamen Gulangyu: familiar through the long cross-sea bridge, a vehicle into the Xiamen city, he suddenly came back to Shanghai, a sense of the wide roadside high-rises, commercial buildings present himself to Huazhizhaozhan , vehicles, crowds steady stream. From the train, counting has five days to leave the big cities to as much as some kind of Xiamen.
However, no where to be seen what are the characteristics of Xiamen, in addition to gaining a broader way than in Shanghai, Shanghai less than certain, everything is familiar. There are a number of streets near the pier, early last century, the middle of a small Western-style building, with a colonnade, gallery with many shops, even more ancient than the urban areas elsewhere in elegant, but that's colonnade again makes me think from time to time in Shanghai Jinling Rd. In addition to the Xiamen's first impression of clean and tidy things (which is also near the pier, some snacks Street and individual clothing street, even on the clean and said they do not do not), the rest are ordinary.
And then go directly to Gulangyu, but the initial impression is also very poor. The first is small, will be able to glance from the Xiamen Island, while the distance from the ferry might not be Lujiang and Lujiazui, the island has no ups and downs, Sunlight Rock is simply a little man. Take the ferry (3 per round trip) to the island, was greeted by large stores, selling seafood, selling clothes, selling travel Annals goods, as well as hotels, so that we do not know why up to this island , surrounded by a group of people then came up to make a guide, to introduce stay, one of which is our refusal to curse even after we could not find hostels.
Night in the small aisle in the Gulangyu gone for some time and found that there really is not a small hotel, only then go to the hotel, do not want to exactly the same day tourism festival, we found only two rooms, a 150 yuan / night, do not want to rush the stay there of.
November 24, sunny, Xiamen.
4:00 am get up at 5:00 or so has come to Sunlight Rock. Actually there is an old man at the main entrance have been waiting there, to take us from the side door (which is not related to overnight) Division into spots, and then collected us 10 dollars, this morning, he probably earn a lot. Sunlight Rock tickets 60 yuan / person, when people began to collect the money I heard the door in three versions: hotel waiter says 6:00, 7:00 the old man said, there is a visitor, said Anhui 6:30, anyway, do not go down will be somebody to vote. In the residential side door after a small road, indeed not easy to find, but the door is Sunlight Rock Temple, after the Mix have time to inquire in advance if you can look at to avoid and pay money from.
Sunlight Rock climb up and almost no waste Chuihuizhili, are much lower than in Sheshan. We are the first ascent of the visitors, days, or all black, and so on for a very long time to gradually see the light. Have no more than 6:00 until sunrise, but have been waiting for more than a dozen tourists in the 10 square meters of Yanding Jijiwaiwai, I really can not imagine the golden week will be crowded during the day here, under the number of people.
Looking around, filled with all kinds of small Gulangyu built a small house, space is compressed like, but Xunbu Dao typical Chinese architectural style. Xiamen, on the other side was full of tall buildings under construction, completed, but the style Queyuanburu Lujiazui wealth. Distant islands in the dark, slowly showing contours and Zhoushan Putuo Mountain is probably also similar. Zheng Chenggong and Taiwan ancient water parade Stockades sites have not left any kind, and Zhenhai Zhaobaoshan integrity is obviously not as good as compared to coastal stronghold, where more than just LITHOGLYPHS. Up to this point, I Gulangyu is still very disappointing.
Did not choose to go to Shu Zhuang garden and Haoyue Park (both 20 yuan / person, three spots with 80 tickets / person), but the island Xia Guang, but the next more than two hours made me disappointed with the mood gradually changed into a comfortable and enjoyable.从日光岩下来不久,就漫无目的地踏进了一处极小的街心广场,许多小吃流动车给人们提供咸粥、糕点,不少人坐在小板凳上吃早点,再往里走就是一些小吃店。走到海边的一处草坪,两个老人在健身器材上锻炼,孩子却三三两两背着书包上学了,再往前有一处沙滩可以检贝壳,旁边疗养院里的病人安静的凝望对岸。越往前人越少,然后就又突然出现一大片草坪。
在我看来,鼓浪屿最大的成功是不通车,甚至连自行车都没看见,游客居民全部步行。在岛上无论走到哪里都能少一份嘈杂,多一份干净安宁,如若城市中的净土。我在想若是把上海衡山路领馆区或苏州老城区圈一大片地出来只让步行,会有什么结果。又觉得周庄建设最大的失败就是造了一条公路,上世纪80年代当陈逸飞和三毛们坐着渡船缓缓驶进古镇时,内心会有多激动啊?
不知不觉中又闯进一个居民区,没有商场、没有游人,只有宁静的小道、巨大的榕树和树后不知建了多少年的小洋房。这里才是鼓浪屿最迷人的地方吧?全是蜿蜒狭窄的小道,有时还要上坡下坡,让我们找不到出去的方向。周围全是小洋房,两三层,小小的并不起眼,一点都不豪华,但却精致典雅,而且都带一个很小的小花园。也的确常能听见钢琴声,尽管大多是单调反复的练习曲,但比起码头附近的喧嚣,这琴声要好听几万倍。真的如身处异乡了。这居民区大概近百年里没变过样吧?岛外的风风雨雨有没有吹落到这里?
又在不知不觉中回到日光岩路,前面两条道上各有两个大旅游团蜂拥而来。正午时分,我们离开了鼓浪屿。
(七)——厦门之环岛路、跨海大桥:望海但厦门给我留下最深刻印象的却不是鼓浪屿,而是环岛路和跨海大桥。都是坐在车上匆匆而过,连照片都没拍,这美丽的镜头只能在脑海中翻阅了。
游完南普陀寺景区后,在厦大前面坐公交车,一路从环岛路经过,宽阔干净的马路、路旁两道大草坪,而草坪里又种植了两排高大的椰子(?)树,一派南国风味,简洁却又大气。路的东侧就是大片的金黄的沙滩,宽大概几十米,连绵不绝又达几公里之多。这里的海水是绿蓝色,色彩也比鼓浪屿上的黄踏踏美丽得多,远方,几处岛屿凸显着自己淡黑的身影。环岛路东侧应该正对金门,但不知这海中的几处浮点上是否有台湾的同胞在呢?
沙滩和草坪之间就是宽十米左右的非机动车道和人行道,贯通整个环岛路。有的段落人行道和沙滩之间又会建有花园草坪。游人三三两两在此处闲逛,或者走下堤坝到沙滩上晒太阳,还有的干脆下海游泳(有的段落有海滨浴场),一副悠闲舒适的生活图景。若我生活在厦门,没事的时候必定到此处看着海发呆。
到厦门若只去鼓浪屿不去环岛路,也许有点亏了。若说环岛路有什么不足,我觉得这里的沙滩被人为隔断而不能连成一片有点可惜,若隔断沙滩的是胡里山炮台这样的古迹那也就算了,可明明看见有的地方造的是宾馆。
跨海大桥却是26日从泉州回到厦门后的事了,下午4:51从厦门坐火车回上海,路过跨海大桥时正是黄昏,眼见夕阳挂在远方底矮的群岛上,海面却被染成一片赤黄色,天空中也是一朵朵金色的霞云,无比美丽壮观。这景致该不是厦门独有,也许是结束闽西闽南之旅的心理在发生作用,反正这厦门的海上黄昏给我留下了极其美好的回忆。
回过头来说几句南普陀寺(门票3元/人)。这寺庙香火极盛,游客众多。不习惯的是其建筑上用尽了色彩、雕刻的装饰,几进殿宇虽然宏大却少了几分庄严,花花绿绿的全没江南古寺黑瓦黄墙的凝重,乍一看哪里象个寺庙?后来到泉州,发现那里的寺庙也和南普陀寺相似,装饰过分繁复,而使用红色砖墙也是当地民宅的特色,非寺庙独享。其实景区里我更感兴趣的是南普陀寺旁的闽南佛学院,但几处和寺里相连的通道都立有游人莫入的告示,只能作罢。
南普陀寺后就是五老峰,我怀疑国家重点风景名胜区“鼓浪屿—万石山”中的“万石山”就是五老峰,因为那里有大量巨大的裸岩。一例众多的摩崖石刻,山中景色一般,但登到山顶处有一平台,往前可以俯瞰山下整个南普陀景区,左侧厦大、中间南普陀寺、右边紧邻着闽南佛学院,这一大群建筑外沿就是环岛路和大海。若往右侧远眺,又能看见鼓浪屿全景。虽说要比爬日光岩累得多,但这五老峰还是值得一登。
(八)——泉州:宗教八卦宴从厦门到泉州走高速公路要1个半小时(32元/人,火车站旁梧村汽车站)。刚到泉州时天色又已黑了下来,马路狭小,建筑杂乱,车辆众多而且行驶混乱无序,扬起一阵阵灰尘,车站旁大量小摊贩吆喝着。比起厦门来,对泉州的第一印象简直是很差了。走了一段路,找了家招待所(80元/晚,标准间)休息。
1月25日,晴,泉州。
泉州城没什么自然风景,都是看一些古迹,回过来发现,这些古迹又都是一些寺庙观宇,所以对人文景观或宗教感冒的驴友也许会觉得乏味。不过,泉州城内宗教遗留数量之多、种类之丰富、历史之古老的确非我所到过的其他南方城市可比,真个一活的宗教博物馆。
1、闽南特色之妈祖庙从招待所没有直接去清源山的车,于是先步行去妈祖庙。在泉州市内,许多景点都可以步行,我们这一天半里只有到清源山和洛阳桥是非坐公交不可的。
妈祖林默既然由人列仙,应该有祖庙,不过不知道在哪里。泉州的这个是国内最大级别最高的妈祖庙。正门宽阔,两边各有一楼阁,正门后一戏台,院落后则分别是两座单层大殿,但第二座改成了博物馆看不出原来的功用。最后一进是一两层高楼,名字很好听:梳妆楼,但也在装修。很多善男信女在大殿旁的瓦片上写祝福的话,20元/片,日后用来盖到梳妆楼上。两厢还各有一列平房,也已改成展览馆或商店了。因装修,没有收门票。
一样的红砖墙和精美繁复的雕饰,这使泉州的各寺庙从外观上看都差别不多。从规模看,妈祖庙只相当于一个中等的佛寺。没研究过妈祖庙各大殿的功能、殿内的塑像、摆供等,这部分功课没做好。只看到大殿里的妈祖面目慈祥美丽,让人油然生出一种对母亲似的亲切感。在妈祖庙另一感受是同台湾省的紧密联系。重修梳妆楼,出资最多的是台湾各地妈祖庙,大概都有上百个,每家钱倒出得不多。个人捐资中台湾各地市民和台商也占了很大一部分,似乎不比内地少。
听到殿内有木头敲击的声音,循声而去看到有一个中年妇女口中念念有辞,拜过妈祖后往地上抛两块半圆形的厚木片,必然是在占卜了。本以为这是在妈祖面前才有效的,后来发现在泉州只要有寺庙(伊斯兰的清净寺除外),即使是桥前村三四米见方的小庙,都必定有这两片木片,也必定有人在占卜,这可能已成了当地人的一种习惯。
2、泉州招牌之清源山老君岩泉州市内常有类似“不到清源山,不算泉州客”的广告,画面却只会是老君岩。其实国家重点风景名胜区所指的清源山范围很大,还包括灵山。而其主景区(30元/人)并不含山脚下的老君岩(15元/人,联票40元/人),只是有山道相通而已。从妈祖庙有旅游公交车(2元/人),终点站就是清源山。
看到老君岩的第一感觉也是小,石刻仅两人多高,全没有广告画的巍然壮观、君临天下。且不说乐山大佛,龙门、云岗石窟里比之大的佛像都有许多,而老君岩已是国内最大的道教石刻了,看来道教还是少了些张扬。
不过这雕刻确是十足的精美,比如那耳朵,柔美丰润,连老子耳朵上的洞都不漏过;又如那胡须,都是一根一根理得清清楚楚丝毫不乱的。老君目光深邃,体态端重,一派大家风范却无半点霸气。如此神韵却历经千年风吹雨淋,不禁有给老君穿件衣服盖个亭子什么的想法,而且老君的背上也确有伤痕。可若真盖个亭子,却又把老君同身后的清源山隔开了。
老君岩前有三块梯级平地,怀疑是古代道教观宇的地基。景区内没什么其他可看的,见到有一条山道通向弘一大师佛塔,结果走了三刻钟到了塔前不远却被一个售票亭遮住了视线。原来弘一大师的塔已位于主景区之内,我是无缘了。在厦门闽南佛学院也有大师的佛塔,也没能进内,据说大师绝笔“悲欣交集”就是在厦门写的。后来在承天寺又看见一块“弘一大师化身处”的碑,但“化身”二字什么意思不懂。
3、又一招牌之开元寺双塔从清源山同样坐旅游公交车到“西塔下”,下车抬头就能看到开元寺西塔。
开元寺双塔是泉州城的地标,其中48米多高的东塔“镇国塔”是我国最高的古代石构建筑,西塔“仁寿塔”高44米多,入选四枚一套的“中国古塔”邮票(另三座是西安大雁塔、开封铁塔、杭州六和塔)。
第一辑《建筑意》上有专文批评这套邮票的选材,大意是铁塔过瘦六和太肥,而开元寺塔则过于模仿木构形式却因使用石才而全无木构之轻灵精巧。不过在我们这等门外汉看来,石塔就是石塔,敦厚凝重,高大端庄,并无不好。其石制飞檐斗拱近观是略显粗重了些,但远看也一样的灵动,其每层塔身每个面上都有佛神菩萨力士的浅浮雕,还只能和石制飞檐斗拱结合得好,若换作木构,那些浮雕就显得突兀了。
因抱有东西两个塔院,开元寺的规模大了许多,走进山门后竟是一个几十米深的大院,大殿两侧古木林立,没有厢房而是两个直走廊,整个院落视野十分开阔。比较特别的是其大殿内的佛像不是常见的佛祖居中、两菩萨列左右的平面样式,而是中央一个四方高台,四周各一对力士守护,佛祖高高在上,体量虽小但下方围有大量寺卫菩萨童子等等,场面很大,一副西天乐土盛世的场景。开元寺里另一个著名的景点是我国最古老的唐代千年古桑。比起银杏香樟之类,桑树看来是长不大的,长了一千年个头也只比我高一点点。
在开元寺东塔之北有海交博物馆分馆(2元/人),里面主要陈列从洛江上挖掘出来的一艘泉州古海船以及大量文物。海船不大,但全部由木头制作也颇可观,船上遗物多为起居杂什,只有一副残缺的象棋子让我比较感兴趣,让人联想起百年前水手们寂寞的海上生活。
4、异国情调之印度教图腾柱这两根柱子位于开元寺大殿后,材质为青石,浮雕位于正中,四面各一副,两根共八副。据考证,其图案反应的是印度教教义,所以单独列出来描述。印度教雕塑在国内尤其是东部地区十分少见,对印度教一点都不懂,所以这些图案看上去有些邪门。
泉州另一个重要的宗教古迹是世界上唯一残存的摩尼教(即拜火教或金庸小说里说的明教)寺庙——草庵,但位于晋江不在市区,所以这次也没去成。
5、闽南甲刹之承天寺开元寺出门就是西街,接下来的几个小时都是在泉州市中心的商业街上步行,感觉到这里与车站附近截然不同的气质。建筑物全部限制高度,最多仅三层,所用色彩大多采用浅红,许多建筑物(包括刚刚建成的商品房)都安有尾脊微微上翘的歇山或硬山屋顶,显然在色彩和形式上都刻意运用了泉州古代民居的元素,这使许多街区气质风格相统一,显得古雅而个性鲜明。而在西街等老街,又不时出现有年头的小洋房,同鼓浪屿的一样小巧精致,色调却是一例的红色。走在这些商业街上感觉还是很美丽很有味道的。
除了承天寺和后来路经的关岳庙,泉州之旅中所到景点都是全国重点文物保护单位。承天寺规模比开元寺小一点,但也有五进之深,寺前七座宋塔一列排开引人注目,寺庙本身我说不出什么名堂,寺内游客稀少香火不盛但十分宁静清幽,不用买票,只几个老头守在门口,也没见到几个和尚,倒是有一些散客在阴凉的走廊里呼呼大睡。承天寺旁就是一学校,还有学生从寺庙穿过到庙后的小花园里复习功课,十分有趣。
6、庙学并存之府文庙从承天寺里走出不久穿过一条很狭小的街道就到了府文庙(3元/人)。文庙前有一个精心修建的广场,让文庙正门看上去显得很气派。
不过现在我们能看到的只是最主要的庙的部分,宽阔的大院、长方的池塘,跨过拱桥才能走到供奉孔圣人的大殿。大殿开间很大,屋顶厚重,其内梁柱都有彩绘装饰。大殿里主要陈列着祭祀孔子时的古代礼器,大部分是青铜制造如爵鼎以及大量乐器。两厢现在已经改成了展示馆,展示古代学子拜师、求学、考试乃至衣锦回乡等关于科举方面的制度和习俗。
比较可惜的是府文庙左跨出去的两个府学大院现在尚未开放,这让我们只能看到庙的庄严却看不到官方性质的府学是怎样的建制,教室如何分布,哪里是教师区休息区,有没有生活区等都不得而知。从门缝里看,中间的一个院子年久失修,杂草丛生,最外面的一个大院前面改成了文物商店后面被文艺单位占据。府文庙外有不少泉州古民居,单层小院,白色屋脊红色砖墙,十分漂亮。
7、西亚风格清真寺之清净寺走进清净寺(3元/人),仿佛走进了另一个世界,绝非东土大唐。立方光滑的石墙面,残存的圆石立柱,总觉得承天坛应该是西方的某处遗迹。而大门楼的高拱内顶也无时不刻提醒我们其伊斯兰特质。比起如西安大清真寺等建筑上完全中国化的清真寺,清净寺能保留这两处来自异乡的古建筑实属不易。
始建于唐代的清净寺是国内第一座西亚建筑风格的清真寺,仿照叙利亚大马士革的清真寺而建。按复原模型看,原来的承天坛上有一个巨大的穹顶,后侧还有一个细长高耸的宣礼塔,那该是很壮观的吧。因其古老和特点鲜明,并不大的清净寺位列全国十大名寺之一。
清净寺历经千年仍在使用,不过现在穆斯林所用的是一个形如泉州民居似的小殿堂(也是明代的哦)。正逢开斋节将至,殿堂前有一些人正在准备面制食品,这些糕点应该怎么称呼?
8、香火最旺的关岳庙清净寺旁边有一个杂庙,地图上标是“关庙”,牌匾却标的是“岳庙”,香火竟是泉州市区里最旺盛的,连妈祖庙都比不上。岳庙能有如此香火让我十分意外,走到里面一看原来主殿供的是岳爷,偏殿也供奉关爷,门口一块单位的招牌则说这里是“关岳庙”。这么多香火应该是岳爷关爷共享了,市民是信关爷多一些还是信岳爷多一些就不得而知了。
9、穆斯林最早圣迹之灵山圣墓1月26日,阴,泉州。
第二天早上坐公交车看过洛阳桥回来,半路下车,参观了本次闽西闽南之旅的最后一个景点:建于唐代的灵山圣幕。
史载圣墓埋葬的是穆汉默德派遣来华宣教的四圣徒之二:三贤和四贤,另两贤则分别在西安和广州宣教。如此说来,灵山圣墓非但是国内,也是世界上最早的穆斯林圣迹之一。圣墓不大,建在山脚的高地上,要走几层台阶才能到达墓前。墓地后侧有一石柱环廊,有石屋檐,环绕着中间的墓亭。与常见古墓不同的是亭下两具石棺突出于地表,就位于眼前而非埋在地下,让我感觉离两先贤距离很近很近。
墓的前方有一风动石,为泉州八景之一;墓室后的柱廊内有阿拉伯文石碑讲述两先贤在华经历,此外还有郑和下西洋出发时的记事碑,均为珍贵史料。圣墓旁还有一大片墓地,却是古代在华经商的一阿拉伯商人家族墓地。大阴天的,也没敢在这地方久留。
从圣墓出来已过中午,坐公交到车站,再坐长途汽车到厦门,在火车站旁的沃尔玛采购了些食物,4:51火车出发,第二天晚6:00抵达上海(309元/人),旅程就此结束。
附:洛阳桥在灵山圣墓之前看了看洛阳桥,中国最早的跨海大石桥,这也是泉州之旅行中唯一个宗教没有瓜葛的景点。
建于北宋的洛阳桥有800多米长。粗重的石桥墩,历经磨砺的条石桥板,延绵至很远处,巍为壮观。其桥墩用巨石垒筑,前段迎着潮水方向做成船头模样,为世界首创的筏形桥墩体制。大桥沟通洛江两岸,过了桥就到了惠安县。桥的两端各有一对古塔和一对武士守卫,靠近洛江区一侧还有一古祠和大量碑刻,记述造桥及历代补修的过程,有的字迹已根本无法辨认,即使明清两代有的石碑也磨去了不少字。在洛江区一端,还有90年代后期立的石碑,告戒村民不要在重点文保单位上行驶机动车,看来这一千多年的古桥还是一副好身子骨。现在汽车是不通的,不过摩托车仍是畅行无阻。
在惠安县一侧有一巨大的石像,走过一看原来是造桥者蔡襄,后来在洛江区一侧的桥前村发现了一三进大院正在装修,殿前两快石碑,碑上还建亭,原来也是蔡公祠。北宋的文人官员难道都有“发配”到边远处的经历?又联想起杭州的苏堤。如此巨制石桥,当年建造的时候不知费了多少人力物力,建桥劳工有无抱怨?不过此后千年两岸百姓都能从中受益,也难怪要立像建祠了。泉州晋江还有一著名古石桥“安平桥”,长度更是为洛阳桥的三倍,为全国古桥之最,不知造了多少年。
桥前村村民有很多靠捞牡蛎为生,当地人叫海蛎。洛阳桥下的海滩上就有不少村民在挖,一大袋一大袋的带着泥土的牡蛎堆在路边,等着有人开车过来收货。也有人在村里就开壳取肉,8元/人,我们也买了半斤,后来成了火车上的佳肴。
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作者:last2000