Huangshan on the 4th, leisurely self-tour
November 8th beginning, I Yixian County in Anhui Province, Huangshan play on day four. Although the itinerary is not very tight, but more full-go, but also quite a number of other way to see friends did not see things. Now travel experience to write, young and old donkey who shared with the world.
I am traveling, the preliminary work has been done very sloppy. Because experience has always told me that, as a Ziyou Ren, journey too many variables in any one episode would be to subvert the well-designed itinerary. In the scenic ground the efficiency and accuracy of the information collected should be much higher than in-line and therefore I humbly believe strategizing, not Hui Shen Yi. But this time Daoshi exception. Because hope someone peers, the Internet had gone through quite a point of thinking, a few calls to find posts with the Huangshan tour, as well as pioneers of the travels. It turned out babble pen debate two weeks after the encounter to do is slip some of the loudest fastest guy, ultimately Sheung backpack alone.
I take the November 7th Shanghai - Huangshan coach K818, 21:14 open 8:12 am the next day that seems to be designed to set the frequency of white-collar workers in Shanghai. For online non-displaced by the letter wrong, missed the time to buy a sleeper ticket, only the hard-seat ticket holders (fare 94 yuan) on the train.
Had heard that the car is able to fill the berth, the fruit is not enough, the door was closed, the radio began encouraging travelers to buy make up berth. Volatile the situation is just the time, afraid to go alone replacement ticket luggage safe, but if to bring backpacks to go for fear that time, did not fill the hard-sleeper ticket seats hand, have been roving bandits invaded. Although there are votes in the hands of the hearts of not panic, but if run into a neglected, decency and propriety, and inevitably steep Tim troubles. So I decided to bide one's time. It was early to say until want to sleep when Zaiqu complement, but also a lot of money it cheaper.
This wishful thinking is theoretically feasible, because the radio was also broadcast over the same route the call number of shows online on the "sleeper replacement ticket for more than 95% probability" of the rumors is not a hollow Yan. Only car to Kunshan, the Hua Lala up a large number of visitors, will channel water drum between the blockade was a general. After a Suzhou, Wuxi, even the toilet has permanent residence carry on. At this point in mind rather regret, after all, early tomorrow morning to begin Pao Lu, this time staying up late is tantamount to self-flagellation.
It turned out who the tide, comes and go is also cool. Vehicles in Nanjing, the "burst of sound attributed to quiet fan", I have this row of three seats vacated by two at once. At this point even if the announcer said, I will not go broke paying lip service to the. Then tipped it to sleep, woke up, had come to Shexian.
Sneak into the train travel company salesman has begun its activities, he saw a backpack around the cotton. Varieties of services are also extremely diverse, there are the sporadic FIT team composed of a loose collective travel mountain, in order to save costs; has vowed to pull sleeps Ya regardless of their eating and drinking and just sell the car, and on behalf of the tickets, relatively inexpensive; more misunderstandings: what services you do not want to right? OK! Huangshan then you always have to go? An Jiu only be responsible for the train, put you to the Huangshan Mountain cable car station, 10 yuan a person. Where do you go by car, are the price (and later confirmed that this language of non-virtual), you have reason to refuse to do? However, the first stop on my itinerary was not Huangshan, so I had Shubufengpei.
Yixian County, Huizhou architecture (Saturday, Sunday)
Got off the train (8:30, car late in a quarter of an hour), in the waiting room where customers encounter solo Yuer, Hunan, seems to be a journalist. Their human clever escape, failing quite hi self-assertion, and the Gu Long novels to Survive'll bet quite a bit. I am less than fine exercise of its writing, it defaults to the Fish to Survive the preconceptions.
As the saying goes, a world Laolv, donkey donkey lips of the mouth, then it is easy to say go together. The two briefly discussed in a downstream process, gradually perfect mountain climbing. Yu-jun after work for a persistent taxi driver suffered from entanglement. Owners offer chartered 150 yuan / day, if a person is really asking too much, the two will find it can still bear an equal share. Then chartered to the first leg of Nanping.
Nanping, southwest of Yixian County, Huangshan City, 64 km away, Yixian County, 4 km, a result of "Ju Dou," "Crouching Tiger" and several well-known film shooting here, in recent years reputation in fired for "Chinese Film Village . " We reach the entrance to the village at about 9:40, tickets (20 million) after a brief guide for free throughout (Yixian County attractions are such an arrangement).
Nanping said that there are nearly 300 ancient Ming and Qing architecture, but its biggest things to watch for is the ancestral temple, and "Ju Dou," "Crouching Tiger", etc. In fact, the main scene not in residential areas but in the shrine scene was shot. Very magnificent ancestral hall built, the door above the eaves and tall, carved wooden brackets Yanxia doing extremely fine, it is seen singing a three sigh. The layout is generally around the church into two. After the door into the courtyard is a big (front office), both sides of corridors so that pedestrians can go around the yard when it rains instead of rain. The primary function of the former church hall lighting for the post-ventilation and other features in addition facilitate the lazy winter sun, the really can not think of. After a courtyard that is after the Church (before and after the Church of fused), which is the heart of the shrine, as clan ancestral tablets are available here, is the tribe's most sacred place, the Ching Ming Festival every year I wonder how many filial children and grandchildren to Here burst into tears, kowtow mountain ring. Sometimes, something happens tribal elders to meet more than a dozen straight-backed chair to put on both sides of Yi Bai, Wei Hushan would rather point the trappings of a.
The size of ancestral forces, according to the size of the clan, if a growing family clan alone, but wants money to cover much of the ancestral relied on, then come up with a few non-human life can not, unless the clan out of high-ranking official insisted on overtly or covertly. Generally cover a total one clan temple, if the clan out of the wealth of the home support could be built and glorious temple doorway, but the size must not exceed the total Temple - who would dare to forgetting their ancestors and forgotten Code呀? Total Temple larger branch temple more tang clan China under the more awe-inspiring. In short is the ancestral lineage among competition, tricks battlefield. I do not remember Nanping, there are three clans, Yeh spawned the most prosperous, so the total Shrine Temple teams have made very high-handed. Cheng's second, despite the shrine were made so magnificently decorated, luxurious, but the size has shrunk a lot, the door did not dare to build on top of advertised cornices - money is a great do? Doors at all. As for Lee, because incense is inadequate, shrine had collapsed, and now even the ruins were found.
Nanping the most over the top is the total Shrine Yip. The courtyard was square before the church enough to have other ancestral halls twice as big, "Wolong Tibet Tiger" in Yu Xiulian and Yujiao Dragon blows here. Before and after the Church was separated, and the rear hall has a separate patio lighting ventilation. The main hall after hall 45 feet higher than the courtyard, a pair of commanding dignity phase. Is even more exaggerated on both sides of the main hall has two rooms, tour guides told us to guess what is to send useless. Let's guess is temporary placed offerings using the guide shook his head says NO. Scratch for a long time back of the head, and we joke that would not be put tiger bench of the bar, turned out guide tilt thumb up and say enough. It turns out that is really two rooms used in place instruments of torture. If anyone has committed a family clan rules, it may suffer, and the elders to be a high the classroom T? sit young men were dragged out all sorts of instruments of torture (after all, to be filled with two rooms, varieties must have no less) play yard where Yi Bai, a feminist Tu screams like a dog would do the sky carry on straight out of the courtyard.
Nanping Another Aspect is composed of 72 guxiang transport network. Huizhou mountainous and flat patch of land, such as gold, it houses one next to a shrine, a lot of the walls are two shared. Only a few feet wide alley, and narrow that only one person passed. Partial health and high walls on both sides and no windows, so the People's Bank Of these, Xi months long and almost invisible. If you are careful enough, you will find almost no one here is a straight alley, and a very gentle curved arc, which means the People's Bank which had been inadvertently changed the direction of and therefore I despite the small size villages, lost it is a common thing. Promotional materials call it a "maze of ancient villages," referring also seems ridiculous. This design may be considered for tactical defense. Ancient emblem of mountains Kou, innocent civilians Koumin conflict is common. If you have wanted to come to a forcible Kou Mountain, the villagers will be to lure the enemy in depth, using the familiar terrain waged street battles. I was half of the military enthusiasts, standing around a little when I measured a bit and I think this wall Shen Yuan terrain, if the strong man single-handedly broke into, it really is to court death. Because no matter how you stand that cross the alley to the Simianzhangwang, across such a wall, you can only see up to 10 meters within the bearer. Needless to say, prominent people to pick up you, in that environment, even if there has not been living a few minutes over, will be a chaotic heart Dodo measured.
In fact, Lane is a road sign, but not so compelling: If you see pieces on the wall engraved with "Tarzan stones" in Qingshi brand (both general and hip with the high, hidden), as long as you back it Zhang signs, and then turn to the left, you can out of the labyrinth. Zhu Jia Zhuang is a bit rocky road flavor?
Under the leadership of the tour, has completed the entire tour takes about one hour. 11:00 or so, we came to turn off the foot of a hill.
Guan Lu in Nanping, about two kilometers to the west in ancient times is an Inn. Also Huizhou architecture, Guan Lu is not a shrine but a piece of the characteristics of buildings. The story goes like this: Mid-Qing Dynasty, a master's surname Wang gave birth to eight sons, did not expect that eight sons who were all people who dragon and phoenix, grow up, go out to everyone in business made a fortune. Chinese have a long purchase Tian Chi house, Chik Fuk generations tradition, eight is also difficult to escape convention, so will not only repair the seat for parents big mansion (main house), he later developed as the center to the main house built in the surrounding seven mansions (presumably meaning to take my children and grandchildren around the knee bar. younger son, and live with their parents while the main house), Zhongxinggongyue like Moriie fulfill their filial duties.
This eight mansions quintana connected to each gateway to the next house upstairs similarities, coupled with solid-wall house, almost like a fortress. However, Ge Jia also self-contained, has its own courtyard, halls, gardens, small courtyard. Each master (At this point the original master has been upgraded to Lao Taiye carry on) the preferences of the different habits of benefits or outlook on life, the construction of the mansion-style has its own special minor differences. For example there is emphasis on education of the gentleman, deep in their own business identity as regret (the Qing Dynasty re-agriculture and light industry, businessmen, social status), determined the tree after he retires to ten years, educating children and grandchildren plot map of your school, so the lid Zhaizi functionally oriented school is very obvious that even a small playground are taken into account. But no matter who, interior all decorated very high, richly ornamented, painted color outline in gold, had done splendid elegance.
Wander where I can not help but admire Wang Wang Lao Taiye old woman's ability. To Huizhou barren land, we should take one of the power of raising a son, 8, is not easy. Even if you can do it, the saying goes dragon have nine sons, sub-sub-difference, to the eight sons not a bad material can be difficult. Even if it can deal with, to get everyone in the eight son of fortune, budding, it is simply human miracle. But I admire the Lao Taiye old woman more than just this: I find most baffling is how the old woman Lao Taiye straighten this eight pairs of remarkable ability of her son and daughter.
China's feudal family life is actually quite bitter, in which the Ming slings and arrows, wind frost's sword, even if the spectators will find hard to describe, which is seen of the people believe are profound understanding Dream of Red Mansions. However, among Jias, spent mostly blank, there are also less qualified to speak a few, are eligible to have ability to speak more are extremely small, so a move to beat Wang Xifeng play the Emperor as princes, but also basically on the surface can be Gaoding. But then you think how Jia-Jun-8-like figure, all of them are from the cruel swords of flame out of shopping malls, but also embrace all its own huge amounts of money, cattle together, and anyone who can not buy the accounts. Lord Wang Wang Po which they can escape from a house door, living in harmony with a round, during which the wisdom of our generation can no longer be the reincarnation of a few have come anywhere close.
8 ancient dwellings are homes to different surnames, public housing, most of the original gateway to the heart's sealed, individual portals each lap, just a few kilometers of the sound from each other, die of old age are not in contact with carry on. I am in the final when he witnessed a tour of this experience: go in the kitchen eating lunch when the owner, we went to are house to pay their last respects. Upstairs there substandard tour guide said that Miss Xiulou, kicking up clouds of us's deep feelings for times past, so will climb up, then sit through beauty, but also put "Looking back lean on a railing" Pose, is take pictures, the results we are playing a ladylike under the End was upstairs and found the door had been locked inside the yard. Huizhou architecture distinguishing feature is Dumen no windows, walls and the High Court of deep, even Irma had not come in turn. We cried a several more, and even a ghost is not seen to. I would like to Zhexia Ke is over, I do not know when the master came back, our trip sure to be broken. Fortunately, I remember the box office guides the telephone call to the staff open the door of Letting Them Go.
Although Guan Lu is also worth a visit is just one piece construction, but also want to read almost an hour. The scale of its buildings is evident.
Guan Lu current commercial development is not obvious, we should find a decent restaurant can only look to the future, so we decided to go straight to hongcun. Anyway, plenty of chocolate, beef jerky backpack.
Hongcun in Yixian County, north-east, 15 kilometers away from the county seat. Befall Hongcun, the driver said we had better discuss the first village to send us to look at wood floor, Lu. Lu village attractions because of low reading evacuation us to Hongcun him finish up, and so he has time to find a few return customers so as to avoid shorting. This Toshihito without compromising the convenience of course, we already are willing to give. Then go straight across the Hongcun Lu village.
Lu Village (26 per ticket) is only 1 km away from Hongcun. Huizhou architecture is decorated with Ruin: stone carvings, brick carvings, wood carvings, while the Lu Village, ancient buildings are the carved wooden masterpiece. With the first tour we saw several wooden buildings, now there is no impression of the. Finally, she brought us into the first floor with Chinese wood carving known as Tong Zhicheng.
Huizhou area because people more little men are generally outside the business for many years, keeping the old house and old, little less, or else is a woman. For security, Huizhou exterior walls are built very high, even Wai wall of the courtyard as well. Wall without windows, light and ventilation thanks to the high courts. Because it is brick-wood structure, courtyard often put a vat to undertake rainwater for fire purposes, both "fertile water must not flow into others fields," was intended. A typical residential courtyard and Tang are then together, and Tang are two rooms on either side, stairs after the set and Tang. If it is a wealthy family, there would be a central scroll behind the rear hall, but also with a small patio. As the plains precious, and so, and other schools of architecture compared with the big advantage despite the height, building area has to petty much a bad light (mostly high and a small courtyard), wood interior colors dim, so a walk in The first impression is often a sense of where the absence of depression.
However, Tong Zhicheng My first impression was shock. It is characterized by a clear opening in front of the door rather than the general residential areas to open the side (through the long, narrow doorways and patio similarities), so light and ventilation immediately on the next level. Second, the courtyard in the middle of the entire building, rather than the front, the entire building to the courtyard as the center started: the courtyard in front of the door leading to a wide and high doorways and doorways on both sides there are two side rooms. On both sides of the courtyard there are two narrow rooms, believed to be among debris. The courtyard behind the central hall, as usual, is to have half Zhongtang prominent on both sides of the central hall of the wing, but also through the patio light. In this way, stood looking around the courtyard and found that the courtyard is a relatively independent of the rectangular space, the essence of Tong Zhicheng in this space.
Second part of this space is surrounded by a fan-carved doors pose. Some of the door is active, while some are fixed, only the role played wooden partition. Each door the same size, about 9 feet high and 2 feet wide, filled with flower decoration carved from head to toe, followed by: eyebrow carving, carved chest, waist carving, tail eagle. Mei Eagle is a block of high enough Banchi small plates, with mixed mode carving carving these birds and flowers and the like, due to relatively high are not clear detail. Breast eagle is about four feet high, using a double-sided engraved, that is to see both sides of the same, as engraved is hollow, and is conducive to the room ventilation and natural lighting. Tail eagle and chest carved with the high blade opening and closing large, large adductor release lines, from memory, it seems that landscape volumes. Between the chest eagle and eagle tail, that is the essence of the essence of Tong Zhicheng - waist carving.
Waist size and eyebrow carving carving similar, but in between these sizes, almost all of the wood were using techniques. The theme is generally the story of a historical figure. Any kind of art, as long as one person involved is a problem, such as character sketches, character sculptures, three-dimensional human body modeling, are in the art of Feng Jian. Those micro-carvings, the characters an air of different horses donkeys, or Czech Republic to go, or shouting, or idleness, or lazy, and the allusions to plot great accuracy. Expression and its characters more people Paitui wow - in less than half the face of a small fingernail large facial features left room for carving craftsman carving knife is an organ, but they are the knife, carving the figures they actually have the ability an air of vivid expression of feeling out. Zhicheng Tang is labeled Chinese wood carvings first floor, which owes a great deal a fatal knife. Hateful is that in the Cultural Revolution, which accounts for the main body of the feudal gentry wood carving of "ugly face" are because of their sexual exploitation by revolutionary heroes leather lost, and only two servants because it also belongs to the proletariat camp, so teenager decided to leave him a face, allowed us to appreciate the exquisite subtlety of those predecessors, Gao Ren superb artistry.
Huizhou architecture are two-storey. Tong Zhicheng the second floor of the courtyard in part by four waist-high carved long Mulan surrounded. Mulan is a hollow in front-line engraving, followed by extension for the wind compartment liner light, Mulan is a long row of four-foot-high carved wood, using a double-sided engraved. This way separates the second floor of the room and patio, we should still have to keep warm lighting ventilation controlled entirely by the master. Miss you old show rooms are upstairs, guests, and ladies only upstairs, leaving it with little window peep, due to backlighting, where the guests are definitely in the central scroll Miss invisible. I secretly wondered: say that patriarchal feudal society, but when meeting a prospective mate can see it clearly that they will marry Miss what kind of Messire, son do not know the future wife is a lame, or crooked mouth, a bit unbalanced. The Jewel reminder, after only a man can be remembered by concubines to compensation. Even his wife, head hanging crooked mouth, hanging mesh can see it clearly as long as the world science, crooked mouth spit draw a few lines, that is good with the.
Zhicheng Hall courtyard that I had seen and then building a big one (other than ancestral), standing in the courtyard, in addition to load-bearing pillars and lintel beams, the look around every inch of the wood carvings are exquisite, their visual It has a soul-stirring impact penetration. At this point my mind is full of billowing such as "magnificent", "magnificent", "exquisite" noting adjectives. But that regret is: It may be in order to protect wood from rain struck the courtyard of the openings really shrunk pretty far, only the surface area of about 1 / 5, so that almost all of the second floor of deep shadow in the Yan Xia, together with external No windows, Miss Xiu Fang's strong enough light. The so-called "Miss temper" may be a result of such a dark environment, the idea is not necessarily the parents spoil.
Tong Zhicheng of the vast wood carving works, and its size out of proportion. Seems to be dozens (not remember, and remember only the tour guide said, we looked at each other, speechless for a long while) craftsmen spent 14 years of hard work. To elaborate on the suspect in the next pen was not enough, in which the exciting of the Department, the only experience can taste. The only trick here would like to solemnly remind Mix is: do not forget to find those two last remaining face of the proletariat, or crab-eating homes paste, Velvet deer disposable, non-good swim move those who are.
Lu village, about three quarters of an hour reading. Then Hongcun has been a fast 2:00. Ticket edge in South Lake, strangers to village road must first leave the money to buy 55 yuan. As usual, offers a free guide, our plans to eat lunch break ruthless. So cheer, Mo Jin village to go.
Online right Hongcun evaluation is relatively high, the study of its bedrock, one Hongcun is the Huizhou style architecture was included in the UNESCO World Heritage in one of the two projects (the other is Xidi); the second is "Canglongwohu "Chow Yun-fat in the month in the marsh above the superficial to catch up with Zhang Ziyi give you the impression that the scene is too profound, to make improper comments derogatory inevitably arouse ridicule; affected by this impact, we run-length scheme for Hongcun leaving a relatively well-off time .
And the previous reading, compared to those of ancient villages, Hongcun the most prominent attraction in its water supply system. China's architectural history, architecture, not as the West, as the formation of a complete theoretical system, the master craftsman's skills are largely esoteric, so the focus was mostly in the micro-skills of the entire building community capacity is difficult to compliment the overall design. However, in this regard Hongcun great breakthrough in the formation of a pity that there is no theory of the wisdom of its design have been generations of architects to continue research and development, resulting in a pass later European architecture, rivers and lakes.
Compared with the medieval European architecture, ancient architecture in China whether in urban or village planning the construction of the drainage system of water supply has always been more careless, or simply not be considered. However, walking in the alley Hongcun, if a little wide and a little alley, the side will have a wide stone Chixu waterways. Waterways in the clear stream gurgling, never stops. Intervals some distance, there will be a small fence blocking off the top of the floating debris, so that the downstream flow has been kept clean. Water from the village, northwest of Sun City, village inherent in the spring through these waterways 9 18 bent to form a well-established network of village water system, is basically done and everyone has a gravity water supply, the so-called "Huan-Ji is not Anti Creek Road, far, and everyone in front of a clear spring. " Said that prior to what village bylaws provides that the morning before sunrise river water is for drinking, if anyone at this time washing things, non-detention on non-ancestral Da Banzai.
Waterway in the upper part through the village a month after the pool-shaped pond - On marsh, after sedimentation continued to the second part of the village water supply, the last into the village, south of South Lake - Devils village areas. People who normally would have been to Hongcun right on marsh in letters, but I could not find a sense of holding the camera gesturing for a long time, the result turned into a no. Marsh has been on the water metabolism, should be relatively clear, but surrounded by old building surrounded tightly, so seemed dark, very few "deep historical connotation." Reflective Dao Shi strong, very clear reflection of ancient buildings, kicking four are filled with art students sketching in the autumn of dragging nose.
Said from the air looked, Hongcun shape is cattle. Residential group footer for the cattle, watercourses for cattle intestines, on marsh for cattle stomach, South Lake for the tripe. Ray outside the village post is an ox, a River on the bridge is the bracket of the four. Guide, not without proudly claim that this is a wonderful interpretation of bionics, I suspect that elements inside the majority of patriotism, as bionics is to emerge until the era of electrification of the subjects. And Bionics focuses on functionality rather than in shape to take to establish a sound water system and a cow or a pig, as there is no contact, not to mention the bridge was later built, and full is a coincidence. However, fathers who say such things is the irreverent, taken to the shrine in order to avoid unwarranted suffering, or not to split is better.
Hongcun famous buildings to private homes mostly businessmen. Many of them such as "business the word door" sort of businessman joke, less than a gentleman with the language also. Overall Jie Wei powder wall gray tiles, which carved thin Lou, Fei Kim Jung-Choi, in short, afraid of other people do not know that he was rich. Narrow alley deep, standing on a look at the past, both sides of the walls stand like a wall, row upon row, and the countless little cloudy cornices blocks out the sun, tourists and great, so no faction is basically what the camera handy.
Coming full circle, also about an hour. Farewell tour, we first Shu Tong lodging. Late a long time to eat lunch, come out of the village around 3:30 chartered to Ta Chuan (10 yuan / person) to see red leaves.
Ta Chuan 2 km east of the Hongcun (tickets 20 yuan, is simply stealing money), small villages built on mountains, shaped like a pagoda hence the name. Inside are also some ancient buildings, but had no impression of the. Aspect is scattered on the ridge outside the village of tallow leaves. A child, I have trees at home in front of Chinese tallow trees, late autumn after frost when the leaves turn red, often transmitted down the setting sun, standing on the direction of looking backlighting, Chinese tallow tree leaves as translucent wax leaf, crystal translucent, the color was very rich Fat drunk. Each species of tree leaves and the colors are different, fiery red, yellow like gold, orange Ruxia bright leaves than in later years have seen pretty much. At that time, while not know how to appreciate, but the scenery is unforgettable. Originally, I think that this could be back into the game, the weather turned out a haze, the lack of sunlight transmission, despite the proper season, but it has not have any leaves out the color of the Department, the fatal thing was to create no kind autumn of intoxicated intoxicated intoxicated. I have described with great regret that I remember to Jewel in the Chinese tallow leaves, he, acting quite dull.
4:30 Unfortunately, leaves the end of tour, originally planned also to see wood pit Bamboo (move on 78 kilometers, the fare per person plus 10 can), but due to bad weather, the sky do not look back look. Distant mountains and the peaceful fog cover, it is estimated also went to see what surprises, or forget. Back to Hongcun, then jump east west tour of some self-channeling.
Jewel is the online Jiuyang Shu Tong's daimyo, so set the morning of the room, standard room 60. For the tourists admiring via the Internet, the boss was very polite. The courtyard like a small courtyard, but there are two. Small courtyard with trees large loquat tree, and the roof with a high crown cover almost the entire small courtyard. Corridor on the second floor is surrounded by beauties doing the summer enjoy the cool well. Environment, fairly clean, cost-effective ways, because there is no comparison, can not lie. Mix live on the second floor is strongly recommended because the Hong Kong Shue Yan Tang is also a spot very early morning visitor enters the village, living in the ground floor unless you are a pig reincarnation, otherwise 6:30 spade store pot Panwan symphonies and subsequent Yansha The guides came over loudspeakers will be your wake. Jewel is a typical victim of the next day up and dwelt on the fact of its non-, it is convulsed.
The evening meal time, hit a pair of mandarin ducks, so invite them to fight tables, so to spend the same money could eat a few taste, he gladly agreed. Naturally, we want to eat dishes, but I have to eat no talent, has been recorded is not clear. Seem to have a "wild celery ? ? film", when everybody was even quite good. I tasted, simply do not think that is a common home, "cress" I do not know why here it becomes a vegetable. However, he kept everyone applauded See, I do not make rash derogatory good thin.
During the meeting, Jewel said to me suddenly shrouded in mystery: Do you see the boss as the Who? I'd Yi Zheng: I have always felt that this boss a bit familiar, but I am acquainted, and Jewel is the first time, separated by thousands of miles, breaking the same person did not know the truth. "You look at her like do not like Rene Liu?" I suddenly understood why: That "Pink Lady" where the marriage mad. Boss on the tea, etc., cross-eye watch for in the past, and indeed his words and deeds frown laugh, there are six or seven minutes, as Rene Liu, but the size has shrunk a lot - this is understandable, after all, is the biggest names in others, not everything can be the competitive.
I have always considered money to balance the class trip troublesome chores, meal Bianqiang task of money management accounts an old brain child of the whole to the Jewel, as its distress when they are like the self-appointed punishment. Jewel much pain, words and small to spend much money, never had their accounts. In addition to a few comforting to see me, the muddy generously took no meaning, they can only knocked the teeth and swallow the blood.
The next day (Sunday), check-out before we go once again in the alley N times wandering about that. Marsh in the month two laps around the pocket, or did not find the feeling. However, when you come to South Lake, and could feel shines: The original night, rain or wash the air clean, and the morning though the weather did not clear up, but a little low in the dust or mist at all. You look around, the air unusually Rosen, particularly far-reaching vision. The distant mountains, such as Dai-Baiyun Yiyi, lake and therefore it is particularly Akiba moisture and tender and beautiful. Translucent reflective crystal lake, a net gain of one Mengzi you want to tie down. Erupted in the camera finally found the chance to stretch their wings. By Hongcun for so long and deeply at this moment is I want to watch the scenery, also has been unable to find sense in the month regarding the marsh came to understand it - on marsh surrounded on all sides by old buildings, it is precisely this lack of vitality.
We originally planned to arrive at noon Tang Town in the afternoon at the foot of Huangshan tour a few attractions. Traditionally, the soup from the Hongcun Town transfer to Yixian County. Hongcun - Yixian County, has been soliciting local agricultural vehicles, more convenient, but Yi Xian - Tang Town Hall bosses who, according to a tree that only 12:30 pm and evening there are two classes of buses. Throughout the morning, so the only thing we can do is to the alley onto the N +1 times. So to the parking lot looking for FIT carpool (chartered Price 150 yuan, is too expensive). However, just ordinary tourists who come to the morning, it is difficult to find a ride son. I did not give up, but also a coach for a coach to ask the driver not to Tang Town, because as far as my previous experience, tour guides are very happy to give lifts to piggyback a few FIT earn extra money, but let me frustrated that the Hongcun their last stop of run-length.
Is no way out at, and occasionally, and a young man accosted, saying that they would first go to Xidi, to three o'clock the afternoon before I go to soup (in fact, the car shop owner has passed us). Xidi online comments quite evil, has been beyond our way out of the tour. Despair, we started going berserk, to find the driver began lobbying. This bread is a little old travel company for 4 persons FIT services. This time we have Coke, and tour the company's drivers are of a cat, there is no fishy to eat. Began public relations, what the King did not charge and reached an agreement: each paid 25 yuan "cigarette money" the car proceed immediately, first Xidi, 2-3 pm I point to the soup. We have calculated, even in Yixian County by car is also not much earlier. Two to three points even though they clock to the soup seems a bit late, but still have time to read one or two spots. No horses, donkeys are also improvise it, not to mention a Xidi can play more.
Car dealers along quite fast, on-street leaves Innocent Steps, kicking up a small cry from time to time we call. I have always been on the journey of this variable will feel inexplicable excitement, sitting next to the driver to his big Guanmihuntang. Travel company drivers because individuals did not benefit directly from tourists, so passengers are not generally good. Today, there is the additional revenue that we make lubricants, and his face became good together. Approaching Xidi, he said that each of us can pay 15 yuan of money to eat lunch with other people (other people are paying a whole run-pass one), the addition would like us to buy tickets from him. He bought the group tickets, you can drop a spread. In return, he would be 1 o'clock in the afternoon before our soup I sent.
Such good music from the course. It appears that several guests had a driver after a cold treatment, see our accession to speak a lot of good drivers, but also very happy. To Xidi about 11 points, bought their tickets (50 RMB / person), after eating lunch in the village, the driver called guides, starting play.
Xidi online comments quite evil, and so did not want to see what the beginning of exciting things. But in just 10 minutes, I think those comments are surely Taimiuburan. Terms of the Huizhou style architecture, Xidi houses the best I've ever seen. Xidi the first one by the United Nations as a Huizhou architectural heritage (allegedly application Hongcun only one coefficient in order to increase the insurance to do dowry), the vision of those judges is not covered.
As I said before, Hui-style high-rise residential buildings although the body, but the construction area is too small, while the decoration is too refined, giving the feeling seems to be no place to spend a lot of silver, so they have a one to the wall Yinpiao paste, a layer of paste could not finish three four-story posted on the repeat. Although the magnificent, but the total impunity for tacky. Outside the narrow alley, giving people the feeling is always depressed and luxury private homes and public roads are narrow and the least bit necessary to reflect the old merchant selfish, arrogant, narcissistic evil.
However, the building was concise Xidi generous lines tough, stylish exterior, interior is not hypocritical, and compared to other parts of the building seems an elegant atmosphere, no extra coins taste. Alley is wide and look forward to, at the foot of the wide stone road, walk sideways all the back and forth. Cornices horses scattered on both sides of the wall height, varies delivered, will never be as cloudy as Hongcun blocks out the sun. Desirability of such a picturesque scene to shoot a few location, in addition to feel that way too many tourists, the feeling is really good.
The reason for this difference is a well-known elsewhere in luxury residential to business-based, while the big houses are basically Xidi official mansion. The implementation of civil service examination system in ancient China, judges are mostly read science background, their cultural qualities and businessmen are different aesthetic taste is different. And the dignitaries were informed in the high society, the hands of power, pocket money, emboldened full, natural disdain and Yong Liu Su generation of businessmen a fight.
In the Huizhou architecture among the three birds, Xidi to when the world turned its brick stone. The performance of the most extravagant vanity wood, brick and stone in the cultural connotation is even more concise calm. Emblem attaches great importance to man-made house facade decoration, known as window-dressing 42 1000 2 houses to say, even if the general residential areas, above the door, there will be a very fine carved gate.而西递官宦私宅的门楼之夸张实在是前无古人后无来者。记得有一个大官的宅第，其官家八字大门之上，门楼大得占了整面墙壁，飞檐上下三层，和主屋的飞檐融为一体，让人看了瞠目结舌。门楼主要由砖雕组成，各种图案刻画精细，可谓千工一炉。布局宽松大度，间繁有序，风格正大刚方，绝无堆钱斗富之嫌。
但砖雕石雕艺术中的真正翘楚则在村口的牌楼上。这是一座朝廷为了表彰一个官员的政绩所赐造的功德坊。同车的一位女客一开始还认为是贞节坊，死也不肯在前面拍照，后经导游解释，得知此牌和红杏出墙无关，才欣然合影，也旅途一趣也。其主骨架用黟县特产的黑色大理石凿成，下衬石狮座以固其根基。填充柱梁之间的则是面积巨大的砖雕，或是表彰功勋的石匾。石雕构图饱满大方，而砖雕则细腻精巧，构图复杂。飞檐共有三层，飞檐之下的斗拱由立体式青砖透雕构成，砖雕精华咸聚于此。以前我一直认为砖材质硬易碎，所以砖雕在细节表现方面肯定难和木雕比肩。但看了那些斗拱才知道此言谬也，因为斗拱上的花饰其细腻繁复之处，和木雕楼实在有得一拚。而且刀锋过处，雁不留痕，似乎所有砖雕都是悉心打磨出来的，光滑整洁，丝毫看不到刀凿之迹。镂空的花饰精细复杂，很难和易碎的砖材联想到一起。
这种牌坊本来有三座，另两座已被三四十年前的革命洪流淹没了，现在已尸骨无存。这一座得以幸存，得福于村民的智慧：他们抢在革命派革命之前在牌坊的门楣和门柱上刷上诸如干劲冲天、xx万岁之类的大红革命标语，这下革命派如果再来革命，就变成反革命了。鉴于这个“四旧余孽”已经脱胎换骨，主动为革命服务，对照革命理论，其已属于可以团结的力量，所以革命工作小组决定给它一个立功补过的机会。不过这座牌坊真正立功是在三四十年后，旅游局把它作为西递的标志性建筑印在门票上，一张卖50元钱，其含金量胜过几个超级球员。
近两天的徽派建筑观光到此行将结束，游移其中，感慨良多。我的印象中安徽一直是个不富裕的省份，如果不是今日亲历，还不知道在历史上它曾一度辉煌过。究其原因，是徽州地少，男人成年后大多外出经商，天长日久，经商成了徽人的风尚。商业的惊人力量是现代人所共知的，徽州人就是借着这把力在那些愚昧无知却又高傲不群的地主阶级眼皮底下集聚了惊人的财富。又因当时商人社会地位低，所以经商发迹之后大多以商济读，使子孙辈及第而贵，故而徽州一带，富贵两旺，盛极一时。只不过到了近代，海洋文明在沿海开始发力，徽州的商业优势受到海洋商业的打压，才日渐式微。徽州可以说成也商业，败也商业了。
凤凰源翡翠谷
西递的游程约一小时，十二点半左右就结束了。上车后北行46公里就到了汤口镇。汤口镇在黄山脚下的一个山梁上，已经是一个交通中转站，到上海、南京、杭州、合肥、武汉、九江、芜湖、马鞍山等地均开通了长途客车。小鱼儿已在网上久仰云海楼的大名，所以直奔云海楼。司机还想临晚再捞一把，承诺我们再付30元钱，包车送我们去九龙瀑翡翠谷。我本想这也不贵，岂止小鱼儿一下车就断然回绝，搞得我疑惑了约两分钟。
云海楼的老板叫程剑，以前是个导游，后来由于交通事故双腿致残。可贵的是程腿残心不残，自己创办了云海楼。如果不知底细，看云海楼不过是家普通的旅店而已，之所以在网上名声远播，一是云海楼的营销是依托于internet的（热心网友为其做了网站），而现代自游族出游之前必会在网上查找资料。二是程意志颇坚，腿残后曾再登黄山，连新开辟的梦幻景区也有亲历，这种精神为自游族所推崇，所以自游归来，都不会忘记在网上大加宣传。这些宣传竟至于使一些年轻人对程产生一种崇拜心理，事情就有点变味了。
小鱼儿就是其中的一员，两日来数次提到云海楼，语气颇为敬仰，投店时更有归心似箭之色，大有非云海楼不住的味道。拒绝了那司机的30元报价后，我们进了云海楼分店。房间是早上就订下的，所以卸下行李后就叫店家备车去看山下景点。二掌柜报价40元，我们呆了一呆也很难说什么。此时约两点钟，因为秋旱日久，九龙瀑早就没水了，所以决定玩凤凰源和翡翠谷。
凤凰源离汤口八九公里（门票30元），是个纵深十余公里的溪谷。由于缺水，只剩下满滩的顽石和一汪汪一脚深的残水。导游是个瘦削的中年人Plus，看上去像个整日劳作的农民，自言以前国营时代曾是山上的导游，后来黄山景区市场化运作后便退居山底了。其人形色颇为朴实，但其行却颇为奸猾。一是他满口恭维之词却不露声色，言其世居黄山，知天识时，今观天象，云高雾薄，明日必晴无疑，尔等但且宽心，明日登山，日出云海，尽可一收眼底矣。我看看天上还飘着雨丝，权以一笑镐劳，小鱼儿却早已眉开眼笑，反倒过来尽力游说我信其一派胡言。这倒罢了，让游客开心乃是导游的职责，但丫到了凤凰亭之后，就假言道前面修路，滑腻难行，万一折腿损骨，恐于明日游程不利，为君之想，不若就此打回云云。诸位驴友，我辈即为自游人，所重者乃在于旅游体验，半途而折算什么意思？但此时小鱼儿已完全被他移魂大法所迷，于其比肩而立笑吟吟的一付乖孩子本色，不再作越雷池一步想。我耐不住，说前去看看便回，于是一人继续前行。
前面石板道通天，路况良好。转过一个小山脊，再上一段石阶，便快接近云层了。此时小鱼儿在后面呼魂般的叫起来，原来这里正好能直视凤凰亭，我的毛衣颜色鲜亮，被彼人觑见，所以子归晚啼，声声催归。我看看群峰俱在云雾之中，看不见远景，后面又催得急，意趣大损，只好施施然转回。
这种溪谷景色，浙赣一带遍地都是，所以窃以为30元门票实乃狮子大张口。不过正如导游所言，如果夏日天气晴朗，一路溯流而上，间或在溪中嬉嬉水，晒晒太阳，看看远处的奇峰秀木，还是很写意的。导游因谎言被戳破，十二分努力地向我们推销夏日溯游之乐，拟以画饼之利诱我免予投诉。我查看门票背后的景区示意图，发现只走了1/3游程，乃深恨老匹夫无德，且痛小鱼儿不争。作为导游，不愿陪客人走全程是可以理解的，只要说明情况，或叫客人自游，或建议提前回转都无又不可，若为一己之私，胡编谎言，即是职业道德问题了。至于暗行诡道，离间人家游伴同盟，则更见可恶。彼被发配山脚，焉有所报也。
上了车后往回走三四公里，就是被誉为天下第一丽水的翡翠谷。翡翠谷又称情人谷，纵深6公里，因卧龙藏虎最后一场戏在这里取景，门票如周润发的轻功般飙升到42元。单价7元/公里的昂贵溪谷我是第一次见到，倒要看看它有什么惊人之处。
翡翠谷宽度比凤凰源小得多，溪中顽石也不象凤凰源中的那样大大咧咧，属于秀巧型溪谷。其看点是散落在溪中的一个个翡翠彩池。因为水少，池子有小又浅，能满膝的也就两三个，但奇的是池水大都作翡翠色，晶莹剔透的惹人爱怜。尽管天气不好，谷中幽暗，还是拍了好多照片。但后来回来后看了同学一周前拍的照片，差点把我活活气死：他去的那天天气好，阳光经晶亮的翡翠池水折射，在池底形成游走不定的彩色几何图案，色彩斑斓，直如翡翠，堪称水界绝色。相比之下，我拍的照片简直是垃圾。不由得慨叹风景就像一盘佳肴，不但烧的火候要恰到好处，吃的时机也不能有丝毫差池，否则即使是大师的巅峰之作也味同嚼蜡矣。
翡翠谷不配导游，这点似乎有点玩个性的味道。司机临行前叫我们到翡翠池即可折回，大概是全程的一半，是大众化的游程。走了二十几分钟，前行转一个湾，便见一个较大的水潭。水照例较浅，不过看得出雨水丰沛时这个水潭的规模是相当可观的。潭边的石坡上大书一个四五米大的大红“爱”字——情人谷原来就是这样活生生造出来的。这种“风景”在中国没有一千只怕也有八百，实在是一大败笔，就像一个好端端的美女，偏偏要在脸上大喇喇的刺个“美”字，不但是画蛇添足，更兼是伤风败景了。
替小鱼儿拍了两张“到此一游”式照片，我是死也不肯留影的了。这种地方，如果带了女友或老婆来或尚可屈尊，一个人上照就嫌浪费胶卷了，而且会助长景区管理方破坏天然风景的不良风气，岂是我辈热爱自然者所为。
翡翠池上面还有石板路上去，可能还有几十分钟的游程。不过此时尽管才过四点，天色却已灰暗的象旧社会，想想再挨下去也没有什么意思，不如早回。
汤口离黄山宾馆也就一两公里，对泡温泉有兴趣的驴友晚上可以一亲黄山四绝之一的芳泽。我们提不起兴致，准备吃了晚饭好好睡觉，明天起个大早，免得乘缆车时排队。
黄山的风味特色菜中，有一个石耳还算不错，黑乎乎的似乎是地衣类植物，和石鸡并称黄山二石。不过石鸡实在不怎么样，估计是牛蛙的黄山土著，商人为谋高价，便指蛙为鸡，以彰显其特殊身份。要不就是黄山石鸡甚少，奸商为谋高利，以牛蛙取代石鸡，哄骗生客。我们昨天在树人堂尝过，四个人也就吃了一半，所以不推荐驴友品尝。
晚饭后二掌柜建议我们去总店向程剑咨询山上游程。从网上游记来看，这已成为一个惯例，也是云海楼企业文化的萌芽。其实我们对游程及时间划分已烂熟于胸，但多点资讯总是有益。程的游程建议和我们事先商定的差不多，只是建议我们次日在狮子峰看日出使我感到疑惑（狮子峰东边有高峰阻挡，并非观日出佳处）。完后给了我们两样有价值的东西：一张手绘的梦幻景区线路图，另一张是北海宾馆的床位预订单（四、六人间，每位110元）。
公平地讲，云海楼的服务还算比较贴心。标间60元，设备比树仁堂要好点,服务员言谈也很可亲，一付“同道中人”的口气；点菜时二掌柜给出的建议很合理，不像有的老板恨不得把所有的菜全端给你；早上提供的早餐也充分考虑到半天爬山的体能消耗。由于云海楼的客源基本来自互联网，游客的口碑对它来说生死攸关，所以他们绝不会蠢到为一时之利而挥刀斩客。不过弊端也是显而易见的：由于客人大都从网上慕名而来，耻于还价，已成完完全全的价格接受者。站在中性的立场上来看，不管是何许人，既然开门做生意便是个商人，商人的职业属性决定了他所有的活动都是围绕利益而展开的，是消费者的对立面。所以作为消费者，能搁开网上传言的影响，清楚明白自己的身份便算你有几分智慧了。
晚上还有一件必做的事是补充能源。山上东西暴贵，即使你生在殷实之家，也没有必要犯傻去吃三四十元一碗的蛋炒饭。镇上超市的东西价格和其他地方差不多，但都是大路货，嘴巴刁的想吃名牌食品就有点为难了。此外若天气不好，最好顺便带上一两元一件的塑料雨衣，如果山上风大，打伞有危险。
黄山烟雨、云海和佛光（周一、周二）
次日（星期一）六点半上车出发（包车20元）。出发前曾计划过步行上山，但此行的主要目的地是梦幻景区，算来算去，总觉得要在12点钟之前进梦幻，步行上山时间比较紧迫。而且半空铅云重重，把山中一切都深锁其中，估计爬山除了锻炼脚力外不会有什么收获，最终还是选择我一直不屑一顾的缆车。
我们选择从后山云谷索道上山（缆车66元，黄山门票131元）。云谷寺索道站离汤口约一刻钟车程，看了一下登山表，这里海拔已经有650米左右了，一切都已经被包融在云雾之中。我们是第一批上山的游客，由于是星期一，游客不多，公交车厢般大的缆车只上了八九个人。一路上行，除了满眼浓雾之外，几乎什么也看不见，实在扫兴。
索道的山上站是白鹅岭。山下秋叶正红，但山上阔叶林的叶子差不多都掉光了，使得我赶末班车的如意算盘落空。不过说真的，黄山之上大多是针叶林，即使正当时令也没多少红叶可看。如果天气好步行上山则能看到阔叶林到常绿针叶林的交替。
出站右行是去始信峰的路，途经黄山名松之一的黑虎松。由于始信峰已经封山休养，连天云雾又看不见什么远景，所以差不多只花了半小时就返回了。到北海宾馆，时间大约是8点。
选择北海宾馆的理由是小鱼儿从网上得知它是山上唯一一家24小时不限量供应开水的宾馆，但后来发现此情报价值不大，因为我们此室四人一共也就用了两壶，而其中的第一壶因水温太低只倒了半杯。所以对于自费的自游族来说，北海不值得去住：一是前台服务员态度生硬，一付“阔人我见得多了，何况是你”的样子（奇怪的是楼层的前台小姐态度很可人）；二是位置偏僻，到东边的其他景区去都要翻过一道山梁。三是价格巨贵，四六人间每床报价200元（这个价和黄山的云雾一样虚。同室的广东小伙通过网上订票是130元/床，他们说本来还有一个旅游公司代订100元/床，但后来他们来不及去了，可见山上宾馆价格差不多可以腰斩。不过在山下找个旅店预订可以免去还价的麻烦。），后来我到排云楼宾馆询价，同样的床位报价145元，环境和服务态看起来都不错，不过由于没有亲身体验过，也就不敢拍胸脯打保票了。
按照地图，应该先到清凉台、狮子峰看一下，但是云雾连天，雨丝飘忽，什么都看不到，所以在北海宾馆卸下行李后，就开始向西进发。黄山的松实在是天下一绝，一路上苍松或挺立道旁，或斜倚怪石，或从绝壁间仰出，其神妙之处，难以言表。可惜的是能见度只有三十四米，稍微远一点就只能见到个影子，尽管如此，已觉得黄山美景的确不同凡响了。
一路向西逶迤来的排云亭。亭之所以被称为排云，是因为每当云层低时，从这里俯视西海，云向西涌，被轮船般高拔而扁削的石峰从中劈开，一时云如排浪，滚腾而去，蔚为壮观。据说这里是黄山奇石最集中的地方，被誉为奇石博物馆，可惜天气不好，叫得出名字的景点没看到几个，即使看到的也是个迷迷糊糊的剪影，实乃憾事。刚才所说的排云楼宾馆就在不远处，是个新修的宾馆，要游梦幻景区全程的自游族在这里落脚是比较好的选择，一是进梦幻前可以在这里卸下赘物，轻装出发；二是宾馆背后丹霞峰是黄山看日落最理想的地方（20分钟可到顶），游完梦幻后可登上丹霞峰，从容不迫看日落；三是价格比较低，宾馆是新的，设备当然也是新的，环境比较干净明亮。由于白天都在外游玩，是不是24小时不定量供开水实在不过是个概念上的差别而已。四是不像北海宾馆那样要走回头路。
过了排云亭，就算进入梦幻景区了。梦幻景区其实就是西海大峡谷，峡谷中地势险要，以前是没办法下去的，后来景区花巨资开凿了一条山道，一直深入谷底绕行一圈，全线开通差不多才一年时间。整个游道长3640米，高度差340米，官方的说法玩一圈要5--6小时，我特地咨询一个工作人员，彼颇为不屑，说快一点3小时就够了。我想那肯定是奔丧的速度，为我辈所不取。由于里面没有任何服务设施，所以带好干粮饮水是非常重要的。
我们是在11点钟迈过排云亭的。走到武松打虎对面时，东边的连天大雾突然脱开来，露出一直未尝谋面的山峰。只见雾如轻纱，欲去还留，山如淑女，欲现还羞，此时美景，真如仙境一般，我们兴奋的大喊大叫，只可惜游梦幻的人极少，没有人应和。整个上午我一直为胶卷没法消耗而苦恼，此时总算有了腐化的机会。小鱼儿忙着给朋友打电话，说看见云海了。偶痴长几岁，自然老成持重一些，乃提醒曰：见此美景，心固欣然，然也不宜言过其实。夫云海者，须得头上青天如盖，脚下云如平川，洋洋荡荡，广阔无碍，方为海也。今观此景者...... 小鱼儿颇不服气，硬说这就是云海，并拿登衡山看见云海的经历来压我。可怜我虽然跑过不少地方，云海还只在电视里看过，底气不足，立时偃旗息鼓。然腹诽难平：如此说来，我早就看过云海了。
但这美景只是几分钟而已。我看见谷下山峰在烟雾缭绕中惹人爱怜，举起照相机就拍，谁知等我把曝光系数和焦距诸元调好后，看着山峰觉得有点不对，挪走照相机一看，原来云雾已经在这短短的几秒钟内把山峰重新给盖上了。等了十几分钟，老天竟没有给我第二次机会。
继续前行，天上又淅淅沥沥下起雨来。幸好今日无风，不用穿缠人的雨衣，打伞就可以了。梦幻景区的地势极其险峻，很多地方都是开了隧道通过的。有一处地方是深不见底的90度绝壁，两三百米长的栈道就悬空架在绝壁间，走过后回头看去的确有点让人目眩。但全程的游道建得非常宽敞结实，路面基本上是用大块的石板铺成的平整的走道或阶梯，每级阶梯都有近30厘米深，决不会有容不下脚的感觉，上下落差也不是特别大，所以虽然道外都是悬崖峭壁，但人行道中却丝毫没有艰险之感。防护措施更是做得周全，即使你想自尽也得费一番心机。可见风景管理处在游道线路的勘探和建设方面的确是下了一番功夫的。但作为一个自游人来说，走这样的游道实在兴趣大减，经常让我产生在城里高楼爬楼梯的错觉。网上对梦幻景区描述得太艰险，使我行前作了很多物质和心理上的准备，岂知事到临头全都用不上，心里未免有些失落。
小鱼儿很是兴奋，经常吱溜着口哨远远的跑到前面去，一付精力过剩的样子。我袖中掐指算得一卦，知其报应必速，只是不忍打击其兴致。在那种年龄我也是那样，恨不得一步从南极跨到北极，然而“登高必自卑”，出游的次数越多越是感到人在大自然面前的卑微，早就没有了与自然一较雄长的锐气。
山谷中的云雾更见浓厚，既看不见山顶，又看不见谷底，所以一直不知道自己身处何处，只能通过看登山表大致推测自己的位置。对面的山峰一般也很难看到，但有时离得近时，迷迷蒙蒙中能看见许些剪影，活脱是幅水墨画。梦幻的景色实在是非常美的，我们所见最多也不过是十分之一，但已经让人觉得不虚此行了。景点大多还没有命名，所以自作主张为看得见的奇峰怪石取名字成了我们最大的乐趣，诸如“屈原问天”、“夫子相鸡”、“硕鼠拜月”，不一而足。
过了前面所说的那一段栈道，再往上走一会便到了步仙桥。这里应该算是梦幻的出口了，因为再往前走的山道都是以前就有的，属于天海景区。步仙桥是个三岔路口，过了桥继续向前走就是黄山的西大门，驴友切不可误入歧路。不过过桥后有个大大的平台，这里视野开阔，可以三面俯视天海景区，是个拍照的好地方，尽管天气不好，我们还是忍不住拍了好些照片，驴友们切不可错过。
从桥上返回后继续向西走，约半个小时就到海心亭，这里彻彻底底是梦幻的终点了，时间是下午3：40，也就是说我们用了4小时40分钟。总的来说我觉得比较失望，但失望的不是风景不好，而是游道修得太好，一圈下来一点也没感觉到累，这样也就找不到旅游的感觉。时间方面官方说的5-6小时并未夸大其词，因为如果天气好的话，途中会花更多的时间赏风景和拍照片，对于痴爱山水的驴友这是必需的。但如果这样的话就更感觉不到累了。
突然想起昨天晚上程剑说我们将可能是一千个以内走完梦幻全程的人。小鱼儿对此一直感到欢欣鼓舞，但一圈走完后，我却感到很悲哀。我不知道程剑讲的是不是真的，如果是的话（游客的确少得出奇，我们一共才见到5个人），那真是中华民族的不幸。景区开通已经一年，游程并不艰难，而且还处于黄山这种旅游兴盛之地，居然日均不足3人走完全程，难道被人称为东亚病夫一世纪之后，中华民族健全的一代还没有出现吗？如果说我们依然是病号的话，那么这病一定是脑子里的病。这倒不是我在激将，说实在的梦幻游程实在毫无艰险可言，今天就有一对老夫妻带着女儿呼哧呼哧地在步仙桥处追上了我们，好奇地问了一下年龄，孩子她爹58岁，孩子她妈56岁。夫妻俩都是圆圆胖胖的，压根儿就不是经常运动的那种人，手里居然还拎着大大的皮包，一付路过这里突然心血来潮溜进去瞧瞧的样子。由此可见如果心理上不气馁的话，大多数游客都能走完全程。
梦幻景区是个呈马蹄形的线路，出入口离得很远。从海心亭北上返回到排云亭，要翻过光明顶，所以如果天气好，时间又不早的话，可以在光明顶看完日落再回去，因为海心亭就在光明顶南麓，半小时差不多就到顶了。如果时间早的话，光明顶无须多留，毕竟光明顶不是看日落的好地方，而且明天从前山回去时还要再次经过的。
我们在光明顶也就呆了几分钟，因为什么也看不见，耗着也无趣。从北坡下去，沿着西海的东岸走，可以看到飞来石。飞来石的出名缘于电视连续剧《红楼梦》，就是片头中出现的那块“可怜无才补青天”的顽石。这一带风景很好，天气好的话向西能俯视整个西海，向东应该能统揽天海水库的一潭清水，奇松怪石，秀峰绝壁，处处皆是美景，线路也很平坦，所以游人也就比较多，拍照很成问题。
一直走到排云楼附近的十字路口，继续向北就上丹霞峰了，天气好的话那里是看日落的绝处。向东到排云亭，向西则回北海宾馆。这种天气我们自然只能回北海了。
到了北海宾馆，时间才四点半不到，这么早回宾馆实在没什么事做。此时云雾之中左前方钟声悠悠传来，使我们想起上午赶着进梦幻，我们还没有去狮子峰和清凉台。看看小鱼儿的脚步还是蛮矫捷的，于是左转北上。
这一带是风景集中地带，像梦笔生花、清凉台、猴子观海等传统景点都在两边，道路也不陡峭，而且视野可延伸很远，所以旅游资料上说北海宾馆适合老年人住是有道理的。至于我们由于天气的原因，除了清凉台外其他的景点都看不见,所以也就没有什么可以奉献给驴友了。
那边兜一圈也就半个多小时，回到宾馆还是很早。大堂里有个天气预报牌，显示明天还是阴雨天气，至于日出概率那行，则立了个无情的鸭蛋，看得人凄然欲绝。
一天下来，对黄山的看法很复杂，一方面觉得风景实在美得没法说，“黄山归来不看岳”毫不夸大其词。另一方面，对于我辈痴爱山水之人来说，觉得黄山实在开发的太过度了点。黄山的游览线路除了几条不长的登峰线路外，其余的都很平坦，即使是登山道路也力图平缓。不管那条路都造得很宽敞，大都以大块的方石铺就，路边还设有路灯，称之为豪华毫不为过。整整一天我感觉自己不是在爬山，而是在逛国家森林公园。这种开发程度和国人天人合一的审美情趣已经不在一条道上了。当然，对于当地旅游局来说，景区的适游性才是最重要的，而且西方游客对园林化的风景还是比较认同的。
次日，出于对天气的绝望，起床很晚，又贪看BBC新闻，所以直到9点才出门。出了大门一瞧，第一个念头就是想跳崖，只见漫天大雾深锁重门，十步之外就不见人影。昨天虽然下雨，但近景还是能看见的，今天是什么也看不见了，心中倒庆幸幸好昨天没偷懒先把清凉台狮子峰看了，否知今天只能盲游了。
如此鬼天游玩就不必奢谈了，两人略一商量，决定直接从前山下山，如此可到黄山市老街一逛，或看看花山谜窟，也强似在此舞云弄雾，装鬼扮仙。于是出发直接上光明顶——此乃必经之路，没风景也要走的。
路上小鱼儿再次向我确认，昨天所见确是云海。原来彼见我口中赞同，心实不服，昨晚乃向同室两导游虚心求教，不知用了什么神通，竟得出有利于正方的结论。如今有导游权威论断在手，自然底气更足。某家素来好呈口舌之辩，只是不合被天气坏了心情，又深谙中国乃冤假错案生产大国，添你一件又待如何？即使老天有眼欲效六月飞雪之典故，也得等半年之后方当时令。故而哼哼啊啊的点头称是，竭力伪装免得再度被看出口是心非。
岂知昏朽老天今日不知搭对了那根脉，片刻之后竟然为我洗雪沉冤，实在让我感激涕零。
约走了二十分钟，随着海拔的升高，浓雾渐渐变薄，终于能够看到三四百米外的景色。放眼看去，只见山上松林白花花的一片，蔚为奇观。原来夜来气温聚降，浓重的雾气凝结在松针上，形成了黄山冬日一景——雾松。越往上行，雾气越薄，偶尔竟有阳光透过树冠斜射下来，照得雾松的冰凌晶莹剔透，光彩夺目。此种美景对于生与江南长于江南的我们来说平生未见，两人简直象小孩一般大喊大叫，惹得同路老人点头微笑，怡然追忆起往昔的青春年华了。
一路拍着照片上去，突然听到跑在前面的小鱼儿大喊大叫，情知一定碰到了什么奇迹，于是一路狂奔上去。翻上了光明顶和石门峰之间的山梁，只觉得眼前一亮，只见东边（东海）平平整整的一片一望无际的亮灿灿的云海，厚厚地堆积着，似乎跨步就能向天尽头走去。而头顶蓝蓝的天空中漂浮着淡淡的高空浮云，犹如轻纱一般姿容曼妙。这种壮丽的景色实在是平生仅见，几乎觉得自己像在梦中一般。
山梁上的雾松尤其白亮，霜花几乎将松针完全包裹，细细的松针变的有筷子那么粗，原因是这里是个风口，夜间雾气流动时不停有水汽凝结上去，所以霜花又肥又大又亮，一派玉树琼花的景像。
有了这种好天，脚下动力自然强劲了许多。一路上行，不久便到了光明顶。登高四面环视，只见阳光普照，四海升平，白白的云海象一望无际的棉花糖温顺地伏在脚下，时不时轻轻地蠕动一下，仿佛有生命的一般。云海非常的有质感，厚厚实实的似乎能一头扑下去，在上面打两个滚。而有的地方由于受到云下地形的影响，涌起高高的排浪，欲前还止。云雾缓缓流动时碰到山峰，峰前的云雾向上升腾，便如惊涛拍岸，卷起千堆雪。此景种种，实在笔墨难描。
在光明顶足足呆了四五十分钟，才从南坡下山。一路上有好多景点，现在已经记不得这许多了。唯一记得清楚的是下了百步云梯时，只听的前面轰天介一片叫声，情知又发生了什么奇异事，便一路喊着Sorry一边奋力向前挤。到了那儿，只见山道上无数游客趴在右边的石栏上伸长头颈向下看。此时我也顾不得体面了，削减脑袋就往里钻，引得几个游客大为不满。向下看去，只见风送云烟，一个浪头飘上谷来，在太阳的斜射下，云雾中出现一个五彩光环，云雾越浓，光环便越是明亮。随着云雾的消散，光环渐渐褪去，不久又是一个浪头涌来，光环再次大放异彩。
小鱼儿首先反应过来，说是佛光。我因为看见了久仰的黄山云海，本已经心满意足，已经把黄山还有佛光一事忘了，这么一提，登时醒悟过来。要知道佛光要在特殊的位置、特殊的天气、特殊的时间（和太阳入射角有关）才能看到，所以才有“佛缘可遇而不可求”一说，没想到今天居然让我这个凡夫俗子亲承芳泽，当真有点受宠若惊之感。可惜的是据先来的人说刚刚出现的佛光是双层的，在我看见的光环外面还有一个极其巨大的稍微淡一点的光环，我们在那里等了好长时间，可一直没有再度出现。
这次佛光持续的时间很长，我们看了十几分钟后，又跑到前面背对阳光的看台上看。这里看得更加清楚，光环的中心有个清楚的人头阴影，也就是你自己的影子。奇妙的是哪怕你和同伴头挨头贴在一起，可是你只能看到你自己的影子，真所谓佛在心中，和外魔无干。我试着举起双臂作V字形挥舞，只见佛光中双臂影子挥舞处烟气缭绕，大是奇幻。难怪以前有虔诚的佛教徒看到这种景象会舍身投佛，佛光确实有其独特的神秘色彩。
考虑到时间关系，心满意足之余，继续前行。此时小鱼儿突然说不想爬莲花峰了，这使我感到不可理解，登黄山而不上莲花峰，岂非食蟹而遗其膏黄？后来想想，估计其体力已经透支，只是一直坚强地支持着才未露疲像。于是说好在迎客松处会合，偶一人独上莲花峰。
相对于峰脚，莲花峰并不高，也就二百多米的样子。只是莲花峰山势突兀，山道比较陡。由于道路修建得很好，爬起来并不感到吃力。一边走，一边看，不一会就到了峰顶。峰顶面积很小，两人交错就必须互相谦让，四周围着石栏杆，只要不发生暴力行为，安全状况良好。在这里看云海，又是另一番情趣：尽管海拔高度和光明顶差不多，但莲花峰是一柱擎天式的山峰，所以俯视云海，居高临下的感觉很强烈，但觉滔滔四海，吾皆可躬取一瓢矣。
由于有游客不但上来，山顶不宜久留，又恐小鱼儿等得不耐烦，于是返身下山。游过莲花峰其实应该从另一边下山的，可我意识到这一点时已经到了半山腰，懒得再爬，遂从原路返回。到了山脚，看看表总共也就花了半小时时间。故而莲花峰虽盛名在外，实不足畏。
从莲花峰脚到迎客松，大都是林荫大道，闲庭若步即可，20分钟可到。这一带风景不错，仰望天都峰、玉屏峰，在云雾中隐隐现现，如轻纱披身，歌舞升腾，好山好景百看不厌。至于迎客松，在电视上图片上已经看过N次了，尽管非常漂亮，却已经感觉不到神奇了。
本来接下来的一站是天都峰，但现已封山休养，所以接受小鱼儿提议乘缆车下山，以留出更多的时间去黄山老街逛逛。前山的缆车都是6人的小车箱，豪华但远不如后山的大车厢那么宽松自在。车行两公里，下降753米，感觉上蛮长的。到了山下站，原应该去黄山大门附近停车场去搭车直接去黄山市的，但由于小鱼儿有部分行李留在云海楼，所以只有先去拿东西。汤口镇路口就有中巴去黄山市，车费10元/人，所以还是比较方便。
至于黄山市老街。和其他城市的老街差不多，卖的是一些砚台、字画、工艺品、南北货，全中国一般的头脸，看了半天也没找到一件值得买的比较有特色的东西。最后买了斤香榧子，后来证明味道极差，估计没有一年半载是吃不完的了。晚上乘8:05的K817列车回沪（卧铺169元），车上睡一觉，次日正好赶上上班。
Postscript
此次黄山之旅，尽管没怎么找到爬山的感觉，不过一举看到了雾松、云海、佛光三大胜景，可说超值之极。须知官方统计说看到云海的概率是千分之一，看到佛光的人就更是凤毛麟角（回程的车上对床的一位老人自称世居黄山脚下，一生上山十数次，至今无缘一睹我佛妙相，可见佛教缘说大有道理），“欲知前世因，今生受者是；欲知后世果，今生行者是。”也不知道俺前生积了什么德，我佛对我如此眷顾。而小鱼儿则欣然将此果归结于自己一向出了名的好运气，言下之意，是我大大沾了光了。
小鱼儿是个不错的游伴（一个好的游伴，就像佛光一般可与而不可求，相信老驴们应有同感）。一是其人机灵跳脱，触感敏锐，对大自然有激情，因其职业之故学识见地颇也不凡，与其聊天谈笑使旅途大为生色；二是相对于城市新生代而言，其体质已算不错，意志坚强，若非因舍游莲花峰被我瞧出端倪，一直到车站散伙也没从其步伐中看出体力已透支；三是行事爽快，对钱财不大计较，但因此带来的弊端是从来不知还价，好像花的钱是用鸟铳打来的Easy Money，典型的糖水泡大的一代，奸商之友。此外易信他人之言，理想主义倾向比较强烈，自我意识较强，有了什么主张时希望得到赞同的意愿很强烈，不过我行事的随机性很高，所以同行并未造成什么障碍。
此外让我感到不适的是计划性太强。什么时间做什么事，乘什么车，住什么店，事先都计划得很周详，到时即使有更好的选择也会舍弃，以免愧对自己的先期投入。每到一处，对景点的特点、典故、来龙去脉、八字族谱（说笑了）更是如数家珍，直看得我瞠目结舌。而鄙人出游，最喜旅途中的变数，常想我辈既为自游一族，所重者乃是率性而行的自游经历，一种自我释放的体验，若事事皆有定则，岂非刚从一个套子里钻出，又钻进了另一个套子？而对于景点的游历，便象打游戏不喜欢看攻略一般，喜欢一种从无知到有知的探索过程，一种感性的体验，窃以为若将旅游演化为一种对文字记载的印证，则此游已不是种消闲，而是种工作了。然此为一家窃言，不足宣扬。
总而言之，言而总之，此次出游，旅途充满了乐趣，并非是那种波澜不兴令人恹恹欲睡的庸游，这也是我有动力写那么长游记的原因。
作者：aswind
