Time :2003-10-1
Travel: Shanghai --- Xi'an
14:10, cell phone ring tones sounded on time, get up, wash your face, the last check equipment: ACME backpack, coleman hiking shoes, clothes, washing turned into bags, slippers, medicine, folding chairs, fiction, food, sleeping bags, interviews machine, flashlight, ID cards, tickets, lunch boxes. Should be all here. Do not know at the moment how the weather in northern Shaanxi, we should not do with a sweater? Turn on your computer, Internet search of the Yulin weather ,7-12, such a low temperature! Quickly come up with a sweater closet, re-organize backpack (which proved, this sweater in the following 11 days of travel has played a large role, without it, I do not know whether we can support the down). Closed windows, balcony doors, locks, power not closed. And then quietly sit on a chair. Like the calm before departure. 14:30 close start the stairs of the old lady gave me a strange one, I head calmly across from her, from this moment closed.
Station Yong Yong noises, crowded with people who travel, finally get on the trains, but fortunately, is a window position, exert oneself to backpack over your head, good heavy, almost falling, why bother with so many things? A little laugh of his own storm in a teacup. To sit down and is already a perspiration, we still have 20 minutes to leave the car to wash my face, from the perspective of food with the book inside out. Each trip will be to bring 12 novels, especially when a person's travel, fiction and music is essential. This brought Wang Xiaobo's "suspicion Trilogy", the last gathering of his appreciation for high and Yin Jia, on the wisdom, about sex, on the interesting, should be a good thing. The destination is northern Shaanxi, so bring Lu Yao's "Ordinary World", a high school, when a read, I wonder if in the Decade of Napian yellow ground revisit what thoughts and feelings, how would it? "Kafka on the Shore", what with Murakami seems to be a habit, no matter which page of which began to be able to immerse something.
From the "Hong Fu Night Flight" Start, Wang Xiaobo was indeed a daring nonsense guy: many years ago, the Luoyang city is so many years ago, Li Jing is such a rogue, open square of the machines, fire-fighting pump, hand shaking of the Blowers ... ... these ideas are shut our eyes, as if visible to Li Jing, like stilts, like bird passing Luoyang city street scene, this scene like a horse most of Dali's impression of the horse floating in the air (I do not know the first time people Contact Dali's works is when, Wang Xiaobo whether they are of his enlightenment?) in white cloth with dog feces hit the surface of the fork, soup pot on the dead snake, and the prostitutes Xipixiaolian entanglement, and others discuss the music and geometry, until the other headaches to death, took out the money so far. In the epoch-making went for many, and I know that aspire to the impossible in the Li Jing, unrestrained head in too many lonely loaded that day, he falls from the sky like a bird before the Hong Fu, Deng eye dogs roar: Your money hiding in it? At that point I would like to own a piece of brick street, looking at Hong Fu Faced with this strange man when interesting face, and then Li Jing to leave after she walked inside the aroma of stay for a while, on the climb Shui top left, where they shake the West for a while to find the right balance between Akira, and then forward and left. I know that the eyes of a certain moment the two of them exceptionally clear, and floating down the back of the two long.
Slept, as well as a few hours to Xi'an, and Hong Fu Li Jing, and also escaped from Luoyang City, ran towards the city of Chang'an. For Xian, I know nothing about, He Shangshu to see the girl who sits next to her has been mutually agreed on, "Tess," I decided to inquire about her food in Xi'an.
------ You are Xi'an, are you?
------ Yes, how do you know?
------ Because you have very little, and only a small backpack, it is by no means to travel, then it should be back home.
Girl laughed, and guessed right. In fact, the real speculation from intuition, and sometimes it is really accurate, I can not help a bit complacent in:) from the conversation that she was just on the freshman, to Shanghai a month wanted to go home, I pulled out a map and ask Xi'an snacks, where the lamb authentic bubble, where the meat capsule incense. I found many of Shaanxi people talk about their food, always eyes lit up, like one of my roommates in Shaanxi, in the universities, each turn off the lights, he began to talk about his lamb bubble, whistle surface , and made people hungry able in had to endure such temptation, really want to rush to the flat he (unfortunately bian, however) but also to Shanghai after so many years, they are not, as others have gradually assimilated, each talking about their well-being Life is always: go home get married, planted a few acres of land every day, face, there is lamb on the bubble, and Liang Pi satisfied. Look at you this Offer! Each time such a fight against him, I would think: what kind of food in the end the magic so that they are so obsessed with it? Intoxicated like to see girls, I said a few hours can go home to eat your fill, she said do not go home, I have telephoned my mother to train station with a meat capsular me! God! Nearly fainted!
There is also the next four or five young men from Shanghai, and now they are talking with relish to all kinds of office disputes, see that they are the same company, and described themselves as *** big companies, especially one wearing glasses guy, it should be their head, is that everything have a great view of the "elite" do not know how the road with a foot job, and anyway my keyboard, mouse, and letters have been gradually disappearing, and students are talking about What is the canteen, food. May have, do not know who is having problems.
Time :2003-10-2
Travel: Xi'an --- ---- Party Village Hancheng
8:30, the train arrival time, pick up luggage, and flow together and get off the platform at the station to pick the family they saw a girl, a happy look, I waved good-bye at her, until the point when it faster recall just forgot to look at her hands in the end there is no meat mother capsule:)
Walked Plaza, Ground Floor, gloomy days with light rain, cold straight tremble, hastened to open the bag to wear sweater coat, hosting luggage, wear hats, umbrellas are free of. Every city seems to be able to feel the breath from the first glance. I remember the summer of 2001 to the Dalian Gang Chu Railway Station, the first glance, is a comfortable, like a blue sea, and 96 for the first time that Shanghai is noisy when you see the colorful, 2001 The same rainy day, Chengdu came, I saw the blue leisure, the summer of 1997 in Wuhan, is dry and hot to see the golden yellow; while front of you? Haze looked at was the sky, not far from the black walls, a steady sense of the thick wells up, a good start.
Introduced by Xi'an girls on the 603, heading straight for the clock tower, because it close from the Moslem street snacks. The focus is not on Xi'an, is entirely directed at interchange to eat here. Less than half an hour, then to the Bell and Drum Tower, two kulou across the street from the bustling streets of the echo, think of the "Hong Fu Night Flight" on the floor of the dismemberment of these two wanted to laugh, do not know that that is a long corns, but also get wind pain disease, hemiplegia of the bell tower the last old man, and that regardless of all the drums on the hit to spend, let the whole city people do not take the goose, but Niu Yangge dancing drummers are now soul has gone into where? Here, according to people's disposition at the moment they should be turned into two columns, silently watching the men and women of this Old Town bar.
9:20 to Hui Street, probably because early and weather reasons, most of the snack street not open the door, which does not have to wait until noon, right? Stomach already called non-stop, is depressed, suddenly saw Jia three hot soup packets store is overturned, is pleased to enter, ah, good fragrance, business is booming, until the second floor of a corner to find location, and a group of people who look like students to fight of the table, to a cage of sheep meat, wait 10 minutes before up, indeed extraordinary, juice, Meat, in particular, its vinegar够味, breath eating a cage, it is estimated at the same table restrained students The stay, and that the person is not hungry, crazy, ah no way!
Eat, and finally able to walk in the ancient city. Fortunately, the emperor was not like the sea, do not like mountains, or else according to the Li Jing's temper is necessary to build his wind and water Chang'an Chang'an, and then by boat today to go to Laizhou or Mount Emei, though it may be another way to be true to have some flavor. Unconsciously come to South Gate, this piece of wall there is a good impression, so bought a student ticket (the student card can be left a lot of money). Upstairs, the walls of the south gate is being engaged in what the prairie style, less than 20 meters there is a yurt, originally belonging to the grasslands to move this stuff, why? Has come to the door it only took a Wenchang, and then, tourists scarce, slow pace, to savor the beauty of this ancient city. Although little studied under their own history, but in such a rainy day, the shut our eyes, as if all of the prosperity and honor the ancient capital of prosperous secluded flash in front of 11, rain falls gently on the cheek, a while cool, a kind of melancholy in Man thoughts on the mind. Wang Chengli looked, because the city allowed construction of high-rise buildings, basically maintained the original style, could not help but cheer for the Li Jing, the immediate city did not have their own impetuous and thin, but rather a deep sense of cultural heritage, harmony, calm, natural person intoxicated one, perhaps the so-called modernization should have a re-understanding, perhaps from modern and ancient times to find a suitable starting point is the proper attitude of modern people, or else not only shows that no alternative outside the upstart vanity any others. In this way go all the way, even if a sudden reversal of time and space, wall full of selling and zither sound, I would not be surprised, just a few hours, I think I have been attracted to this city.
From a peaceful stroll down the door to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, tourists are everywhere, nothing is visited by spirits, a little more out of already, but also the cuisine, a taxi to the old Sun family's lamb Paomo Museum. Packed, business blasting is good, because it is a person, waiter can only arrange the location of the door, outside, rainy, wind sitting position Doudousuosuo to breaking off the bun, to know that before the break with both hands as small as possible, the first one bun for almost 20 minutes before breaking off a finished, God, fingers began to ache, hunger, intolerable, the wind was big, and God knows how our ancestors thought that the northern Shaanxi trouble to eat. However, a nearby table were enjoying themselves breaking off a pair of lovers Dao Shi. To see people eating at the same table call-mile crash, both up to the Son of Heaven, down to the man, eat are so carefree, so muster enthusiasm, and think Stephen Chow in "Flirting Scholar" in playing the drums began to bowl mad Breaking burst , until the usher in the second before breaking off a end table friends. The next is still a long wait. On the left to the two local old man to see the right side of a particle Jiangsu Breaking get great would perhaps come to waiter: how not to let's talk about the bun guests of Breaking the Law, this is not tantamount to smashing brand do? The lady side of the apology, while patiently teach Breaking the Law the group, could not help but smile the old man's serious and forthright. Experienced cold and hunger for half an hour of waiting, waiting to no avail Nawan mutton Paomo finally on stage of. Eat! Add a little less like the old man in northern Shaanxi Spicy, stir a while, and then Mengchi hand holding garlic, parsley, ribs that she was still a farmer born in ah:) breath to eat a large bowl, until the body and warm. Then I began to forgive our evil greedy Shaanxi roommate had.
Out of the old Sun home, I decided to leave this city, went straight to the party's Village, the city need to slow after the tasting. A taxi to the bus station, buy a ticket immediately to the Hancheng. 15:30 start time to the time has quickly Hancheng 8:00 a. The sky late do you still want to party Ka did not know the future be able to find a place to live. Was wondering the next to just have a car and went to the party's Village, and hurried into the car, the car of one's own dress was surprised this body, but in this strange city, no one will understand their own.
Just a position, the conductor says that the station had. Bei Zhaobao get off beside the road in a county surrounded by fields, the conductor said, forks in the road along the side of the road into the family to stay with the. Forward by tens of meters, as if the distance is the unfathomable field, and the dark and with no lights. Back to the road, according to "Tibetan antelope," zz from sina stay on the phone to play go, pass, but it is not a hotel, how should I do? To see the roadside gas stations, someone watching TV, pounding the glass windows, an old man rise from his bed and told me to move forward one kilometer to go. Drop packets out flashlight Unfortunately, the battery running out, and the man to bring me back to house battery, quickly thanks, saying that they have a backup. Old man also introduced a bit longmenzhen area attractions, a hot heart. Re-walked Natiao paths, four weeks, or by quietly, and then walk over 200 meters are not seen as housing, has eight more, if not find somewhere to live and how to do this? But for every 10 meters there is a roadside waving red flags: The party's Village welcome you, do not stand up in their own faster. After a child, and finally heard the voice in front of the tractor and tried to look, two young guy was unloading corn. Q and orientation, to move forward on both sides of Pine Yi Keke way back, suddenly saw a figure not far in front of the shaking, to stop, he stopped, palms sweat a little, and left click, and he left Shui, careful look, "哇靠!" is not a shadow of their own do? Put to utter shame for their cowardly. And went 10 minutes, or not see houses, are anxious when the tractor behind the voice sounded again, stopped at my side, just on a small group and said: We pull you up for some. Hearts overjoyed and immediately followed suit thanks! Throw the bag after the bucket, then reveals the children stand up, the moment has also refused to take a dirty dirty is not accompanied by the roar of tractors, carefree mind began to rise, despite the overcast sky, while the autumn is pleasant. Five minutes later, finally arrived. Section of muddy walk and saw a two-storey house, the door has been closed, from the window to see two girls are watching TV, looked at the glass, they are first surprised, then wake up the boss, open the shutter doors, in the light Next, the heart at ease together again. The boss is more than 30-year-old man with dark complexion, gives people a kind-hearted sense of: not to eat it? A cup of hot tea on the side, sit down, drink 2, thrilled. Twenty minutes later, the general hot egg noodles in front midrange really fragrant ah! Shaanxi noodles very chewing head, plus belly hunger, eat three times 2 In addition to the replacement in two, upstairs, very clean room, except there is no toilet, everything is good, wash Su-finished, they sleep.
Time :2003-10-3
Stroke: Party Village --- Rok - Pucheng one early in the morning, the hostess ready breakfast: a large steamed bread, a bowl of millet gruel, plus a bowl of pickles. Better than to eat bread, there is a special kind of sweet, like déjà vu. Chiba, buy a ticket from the ticket gate, the next one slope, the present is the "oriental human beings in ancient villages traditionally inhabited by the living fossil" known as Village of the party. And all the town, like a stone into the old trail, engaged in a courtyard among the ancient Ming and Qing dynasties, people's mood along leisurely up, strange things of the tall gate, launched fancy stone, solemn shrine, the mysterious to avoid dust beads, a rational courtyard, delicate doorway, wood carvings, brick carvings and are all amazing. Although the study civil engineering at birth, but was completely ignorant of the ancient buildings, but fascinated by the lives of people here, on entering the so-called highly developed modern civilization, are still living in the ancient style and maintain a way of life for several hundred years ago, which is a What kind of state? No history books, no guides, as long as gently walk, shut our eyes, smell the surrounding atmosphere, can feel. The end of the village there is a Wenchang Pavilion, six-story, which are only for one person up and down the stairs, breath the ceiling, I thought there could look around the railings had no idea that only three windows, and they are all moving in the village direction, which is said to prevent the outflow of money and interesting reasons. Climb up the middle of a big window, remove the purse, containing on the one-dimensional fruit C, put a small tape, the entire village landscape in the moment. Consider just a guide to listen to presentations, I do not know why an officer so obsessed with the ancients, all the porch, stone pillars, wall eaves, stone, everything are all imbued with a fascination for reading and an officer. The boom began in the village of their ancestors to do business in Henan Province, mainly sale of timber, rich natural thought into the bureaucracy so as to glorify their ancestors, Zaiqu ever in town, most of them reflect that, this may be ancient Confucianism deep soak it, but apart from those who dream of a prominent rich man outside of the official, those ordinary people's lives where they recorded their emotions, then where it stored? Why is it nowhere Pursuit? I am afraid that 11 incorporated into this brick into a bar with the wells:)
Encountered on their way back to go watch television in the hotel last night, girl, originally they were the local guides, a tour guide, will soon see that they did not previously guides so scripted, I decided to listen to them say again. Among conversation come to realize that they are also renting an apartment in a hotel, to which less than a month, I thought they were the boss's daughters, brush your teeth last night when one of the girls to see the boss's son was also taught in English, I guess they were sisters. Know that I am from Shanghai, later, they asked me the work of Shanghai, is not there more opportunities. "Possibly, because the company, and the competition also will be intense. But how do you know that I have been working, and I use the student card ticket, ah!" "Of course knew, because you are not the same and students." Haha, or Luxian of . She just sit 6, prepared to pass after going to Shanghai to find work. "Good effort, there will certainly be your place." In addition to encouragement, I can say? At that moment, I am reminded of Fruit Chan's "Durian Durian."
Back to the hotel after lunch when you have a little more, listen to the boss said, two in the afternoon a car to go Hancheng Yichuan, due to the heavy rain, I do not know the way to the Hukou is good to go, only to try his luck had. The boss sent me to the junction with a motorcycle, yes, the boss called the party Tao Feng, phone 0913-5322615, not much, people were good, the next who is going to be looking for his party's Village ---- advertising time.
The Hancheng one asked, is over, due to landslides, to Yichuan car canceled, originally went to Yanan to the morning there is a group of cars also canceled, just as I prepared to return to Xi'an, when suddenly someone said that I can first and then sit Pucheng train to Yan'an. They never realized as long as 3 hours by car, take the results of a full seven hours! When more than 10 kilometers away from the Pucheng encounter landslides, all of the cars were stranded, and for the first time this happens, the driver said that to make a detour in this totally unfamiliar place can be how to do? Car left the main road and began bumps on the muddy trail. 19 points, car is still traveling in a strange little way, do not know when to go to Pucheng. Pucheng to Yenan train a few do? The night before departure that she received the news that experienced landslides, diversion, it is estimated today has returned to Xi'an, to buy a ticket the message of human hair, said she was yet to come and go vote, I do not know how she now has? In this wilderness of CMB on the long-distance, Internet talk about it again? Before this thought a friend of mine said to use mobile phone short message bind vague language queries does have great value, in the rough conditions, how to use and convenient way to get more information, which is very useful for decision-making.
8:00, can not sit, you must seek help. Suddenly remembered the backpack bar, the "take trips together," the owner handles a few numbers before departure in order to facilitate people to stay in-line consultation, yes, he should be very understanding of this area. Give him the message, not long after there is reaction, so I called him and explained in detail the current situation, he said give me quick message, ten minutes later the news came, and 12:30 midnight, there is a trip car to Yan'an , adding that they Pucheng around at night you can meet again. Pop music began to put the car next to a guy he began to hum, northern Shaanxi, rich sound very taste, look at me turn the map will take the initiative to introduce our current position and to the Pucheng distance know that he is a conversation among the buyer, to do Hancheng goods. 9:00 car finally the station, and the railway station in the town 10 kilometers away from the Sun, merchandisers suggest that the three individuals carpool to the Sun town, so three people squeezed into tiny taxis, driving along country lanes, I got out before he gave me a business card, saying that those of us who love to make friends with peers. I asked him how old, he said 21 years old, I laughed, I said I was a lot more than you are big, he was taken aback, I may give the impression that the immature bar. Handshake, good-bye.
21:20 to the train station, which is a small transfer station waiting-room door had been closed and only from the side door into the train in the morning 1:06, and now tickets have not yet. So they went to the door of a small restaurant for dinner. Rainy, cold and hungry, the boss immediately Duanshang Yi cup of hot tea and said: starving it, to bowl with? Well! Only egg noodles. Can! Said to be hotels, there is only one kitchen, and then erected a shed in the open air as a dining room, long tables, Huoxiang a food market. Open the bag, add a coat. Face not good to see other people's travels bar, hit several travels prior to departure. Rain fell on the roof subtitle blah, the blowing wind, that she was alone to this strange Way, inevitably some sad, why? But I know, has been living in a city, and slowly feel more and more narrow, more and more stingy, caught them and can not extricate themselves. The outside should have a wider world, should have different living law, I have to come out breath of fresh air, and a frustration that I am always on the back is cowardly? I would like to know in the end be able to bear? Even if the people around is a living law, but I know it should not be full of life. A chapter of the travels, there are a lot of people are on the road. "Noodles come!" Interrupted burst of sound greeted my thoughts, looking at a big bowl of noodles, apart from anything else gobble up, warm up the body fat until you see the boss and boss wife looked up and smiled at the side, then they would feel I beg your pardon: "the north side really delicious!" "You're a man out?" "Yes ah!" They were not surprised, you may see a lot of people like them. Finished surface, like water, it was discovered not a pot of water quickly and wife put a pot of boiling water that you add bar. Surprisingly, a bowl of noodles can escape the feelings of people happy together, life can be simpler, and thought about.
10:30, the boss should be closing, and they thank returned to the waiting room. A group of people gathers on the floor playing cards. To lay down their backpacks, in order to prevent sleep, went to the outside of the site refreshing. Then the rain turned into drizzle, orange light like snow in general, the long tracks disappeared in the darkness. The site was empty, standing at the signal station location, do not know if members of the signal, waving the flag every day has a kind of wish? This is not like "Closely Watched Trains" and that the signal member is so confused right? Two years ago, to the lower berth brother's site, but also a non-built station, was sleeping in their humble shed in the evening call to another one in Wuhan roommates, everyone in the "I rely on!" Sound and cheer each other forward, at the moment that two Bud flies Kehao? Themselves of this should be one of them, only half-way was a deserter. I remember on one occasion and a friend go to the beach to play, but also in such a small station, I asked her if the train you see in the future Patrol Road workers to wear clothes, holding a hammer, I walk in the side rails, you will how to do ? She laughed and said I'll throw you finish a bottle of mineral water. Alas, we have so great hatred do? I do not care. Haha, a blink of an eye six years later, I do not know where she is now? This is a wife, right?
Spoke of life vowed to pay back downtown to see the world love you every moment is like speeding and said the subway would not fall off the tears in my eyes now boiling the jaws of death I love you out of danger ... ... ... ..
Time :2003-10-4
Travel: Yan'an - Hukou --- Yan'an morning 6:00, was pushed across the middle-aged women wake up, Yan'an up. Drowsily under the station, especially cold. Just do not rain. Face washing in the waiting room, people finally wake up a bit. Hosting backpack, according to plan Yan'an city can go to a day. Bought a map, and replace 3-way bus to go downtown.
The city than expected to be busy, not full of caves, and no different from other cities, but city of central Baotashan make you realize that it is sacred place of revolution in Yan'an -----. Random stop at a long time without getting up so early, and the streets are not wide, but added what is clean and tidy. People have been busy getting up early to open, and most of them are working people, small shops in the street to eat breakfast, millet gruel plus steamed buns, and taste good. To a nearby park, seems to be a revolutionary site, the old people Niuyang Ge, practicing tai chi, playing badminton, a very life breath of the morning. Looked at the map where it goes on? So many revolutionary sites: Baotashan, memorials, wangjiaping, Zaoyuan ... .. they seem not very interested. By the way, Hukou, from Yan'an to the Hukou directly to a car, has always been to Hukou, because landslides was here, and how to forget it? Immediately by car to the train station, and then a taxi to the bus stop, on the bridge near Yan'an, 9:00 a to Yenan car.
Yishang Ju, next to a university student, said the boy had seen the morning at the train station I did not think met here. He and his girlfriend are also going Hukou, look at me a man carrying a large bag, I am envious of the look, and if they know how interchange last night and I was not enamored of. They go to school in Xian, Kunming, boys, and talk some of Yunnan Tourism topic. Road would have to leave the country, and did not expect that in traffic accidents, two cars collided, I got to see the people said there were struggling in the car very terror. Car had to be diverted a few more bumps. Looking at the scenery outside the car, they handed to snack, took a look: wild jujube cake, and my heart froze a moment, exactly the same packaging, each time traveling, she likes to take a lot of snacks, while the wild jujube cake is essential to the last to eat what is time? Drove them to a muddy, very difficult, can be Do not run aground. Suddenly see a group of off-road vehicles roaring past, attracted a while the voice seems to be polar club, in this place, off-road vehicles can be described as infinite scenery.
OK to 1:00 and more welcome you finally see the Hukou Waterfall of the words, and then start winding the line of cars along the river, a very atmospheric scenery. "Tibetan Antelope" In recommending this for some walking, turned out good. Open to the hillside and saw a roadside stalls selling cloth tiger, a girl off the proposed purchase, resulting in half-car people, so I had the girl bought three, orange, and very cute. The girl looked at the excitement of cloth tiger, eyes shine, love the look gives the left a deep impression. Hereinafter referred to as the girl for the cloth tiger girl.
14:30 finally to the Hukou Waterfall, and on both sides from the mountains between the Yellow River has been long separated this as a community, this is the Shaanxi, Shanxi side. Owing to heavy rains, the Yellow River water, large waterfall appears to be very imposing, standing there, I do not know what language to describe this shock. Deafening sound of the water, Huang so thoroughly, shut our eyes, a layer of mist hit your face, very pleasant. I thought: that people should be afraid of, especially in the face of such a majestic nature, people are so tiny. Has been going up, it is a broad river, in front of a very quiet, until the waterfall mouth, suddenly blew out. Like so many faces on it, and splashed the water in the sound of the Dai Li to try to hear what they are telling language. Do not know how many to go through the arduous journey to reach the plain, most vividly in front of it? Life is like this water, most of them are commonplace, but blew out the pleasure is always a time of casual, just wanted to do a good job in the face of flood preparedness against emergencies, most vividly was not blown to pieces, finished to continue surging ahead.
As with cars there are gang diversion to Huangling, so when the 16:00 back to Yenan, leaving only a pair of Xi'an, the students and cloth tiger girls and their boyfriends, as well as another pair of lovers. Population is small, but crowded together on board, while the cloth tiger girls to join, making the subject more and more people. I found that she was a Laolv, been to many places: Xinjiang, Tibet, Sichuan, ... ... In addition to not set foot in the Northeast. Turning around the food, all the more high spirits, they say they came from Shanghai, I laughed, I said I was, to tell you the exact location, clever, and that we were separated by only a street, a smaller world. "But when you talk to Shanghai, then why not? I guess you must be educated youths, children, childhood health in the field, post-secondary to Shanghai?" "You're really smart, unfortunately wrong as. We have considered a second-generation immigrants, I in Sichuan, he is of Jiangsu. "" Oh, I see. "Bai boys (boy is that Yunnan Bai) asked us Shanghai Metro, we said it was very crowded, have to squeeze an hour a day to work the road. Having said that, we all tacitly threw some cold water, which is on the road, why bother say that? At the moment we want to enjoy the journey of happiness. Then quickly change the subject and continue to chat about their travel anecdotes, but also make an appointment to Yan'an, the go to a restaurant to eat grains Yan'an snacks, the local is the conductor recommended. By the way, to buy cloth tiger when the conductor has also bought one, when Bai He is not given the boy and asked the child to play, he quickly explained: I was 21 years old, not married on the trip to the children? 哈哈.
8:00 Back to Yan'an, from the station, walk to store grains, point a lot of eating, it seems like festivals. We are very excited and chips and drinking sweet wine, toast, a lot can not tell the name of the food has never been seen, next to also sing folk songs of northern Shaanxi, we take pictures, leave each other correspondence address, and good just like a family. Cloth tiger girl about his boyfriend, with glasses, and his previous guess he should be the same as a technical worker, did not think he is an archaeological Dr. surprising, but the forehead revealed between a learned and tolerant, people feel authentic. Cloth tiger girl, said: "I am a kite, he is my line, holding me, and will not let me lose direction." "Your husband is very similar!" They were right, as a smile. Suddenly, I feel that they have been touched by the warm front, and decided the trip before departure to be alone in the road, because I want to know how much in the end be able to withstand loneliness and loneliness, at the moment, I suddenly realized how eager they are to return among the crowd , eager to kind of warmth. Instead, he looked eyes of these happy people, particularly girls, and archaeological cloth tiger, Dr. can not help but envy them a bit, and this is not always appreciate their own sense of a life companion do? In the vast sea of them, a person can experience life with you, front of the number of the unknown, can holding each other's hands and encouraging each other with mutual support with, in spite of the daily, they must have their loss and a loss But at the moment, I saw a thing called happiness written on these two young faces. "Come on, I respect you a cup!" I have a very long time do not know what it's like a toast, and at the moment, it came back.
There is no never-ending banquet, eating, we have separated. Cloth tiger girl they have hotels, Bai boys, they go home at, I would find hotels, many hotels are full, or else is too expensive, are wandering with a fat that they are not far from the hotel, but the price is not expensive, then, and he went to look at. This is only five minutes, the results of more than 20 minutes to go, into the alley, there are a lot of hotels, are private. I began to suspect that not a house of black, right? I said I do not want to live, he said, go take a look at to say, I hesitated, he laughed and said What are you afraid of? I figured with how to find an excuse to leave, saying they are dissatisfied and left the room watching. Onto the plate to make the stairs to the third floor, open room, dark lighting, wow game! Damn really like unscrupulous business practices! I said, the taste of the kitchen makes you uncomfortable, and no toilet, ran down the stairs, pick up the pace to leave, he has been followed up, in order to throw off him, I can only say that I have two companions, I am going to seek their views. Reaches the entrance, there is a taxi, rushed the car, thankfully, the driver said that the private hostels is not good here, you have to take care ah! I remember a boy Bai said that they live in the subdistricts hostel last night, it seems good. Ten minutes later, to the military sub-district guest houses, into a look, there is a nine-earth, now that I lived alone. After washing Su, spread out sleeping bags, just lie down, they received the news of her, and she has come to Xi'an, the. Ah, experience some adventure, all the better, and not long after they fall asleep.
Time :2003-10-5
Travel: Yan'an - Ansai - Yan'an --- Suide is finally out of the sun, and one early in the morning together, the sun was shining, according to a more yellow earth at the top of the mountain atmosphere, the eyes of the Loess Plateau should be in the sun, and sense of travel in northern Shaanxi be considered starting from today.
A taxi to the bus stop, ride a car to Jingbian, Ansai in the north of Yan'an, a half-hour journey, but the long-haul trucks in the city turn for a long time, only 9:40 into the Ansai. Get off the highway side, looked around surrounded by mountains, the Wangnalizou it? Also get off with just a middle-aged man asked him if he is also a town, he took with him to go.十五分钟后便到城区，整个城区不大，就一条主干道，《藏羚羊》上说民间艺术馆就在市政府斜对面，没多久便找到了。这是一座三层楼的房子，外边看来更像一个机关单位什么的，走上二楼的售票室，工作人员刚上班，有两个中年男子和一个中年妇女，听说我远道而来，都十分热情，端茶送水，还让我洗把脸。
二楼是农民画，一楼是剪纸。先从二楼开始，那个戴眼镜的中年妇女领着我参观，只有我一个人，真爽啊！大门一开，首先印入眼帘的是九九回转灯的模拟图，类似迷宫一样的东西，每年的正月才有这种活动，据说可以强健体魄。然后一转身，一片强烈的红色便迎面扑来。首先是安塞的三件宝之一---安塞腰鼓。大大小小的各式各样的腰鼓，可惜现在不是春节，要不然从正月初三开始就有表演，可惜我是一个人来，也无法组织表演，只能闭上眼，想象在尘土飞扬中震耳欲聋的浩然正气了。这儿几乎人人都会敲鼓，而且从幼儿园就开始学了，不知道在这片黄土地上纯朴的人们有着怎样的鼓声呢？接着是模仿的窑洞，雪白的窗纸上，五颜六色的剪纸透着顽童式的调皮和春的气息，让这个窑洞显得格外剔透。推开门，各种陕北的生活用品一应俱全：精致的储物盒，古朴的油灯，舒适的枕头，做鞋用的模子，光亮的镜子，暖暖的花色被子，简单的梳妆台…….忍不住坐在椅子上，想品味它的温馨了。
从窑洞出来，又见安塞的第二件宝-----农民画。虽然在大学里一直很欣赏西洋美术，对中国美术知之甚少，但是见到这样的作品，还是被它的粗犷、浓烈、质朴的风格所吸引。农民话，顾名思义，大部分都是农民的生活场景描绘，有丰收的喜悦情景，儿童玩耍的纯真，哥哥远行，妹妹送别的依依不舍，看秦腔的热闹，傍晚赶着牛羊回家的高歌…….仔细看看画的作者，大都是年过半百的老人，而且很多人都不识字，只是依靠对生活的体验而画。其中一幅吸引了我，题目已经记不清了，夕阳下，女孩看到喜欢的男孩赶着羊群回家，便假装到院子收拾东西，一边收着玉米，一边偷偷看着心上人，两眼的恋情就羞涩又紧张，那是一个媒说之言的年代，两个人互相喜欢，却无法直接表达，只能远远地用目光传情。男孩也感觉到心爱的女孩的柔情，可是家里没钱娶亲，只能赶着羊群，一步三回头地离去，然后高唱着信天游寄予爱慕与思念，响彻在这片土地上。直到现在，农村依然有很多人是靠媒人说亲的。我无语，生活在城市中的我们是无法体会这样的生活的，喜欢一个人，又不能亲口说，又不识字，不能写信，更不能打电话什么的，这在一个用大拇指就能用手机传情的时代，依然有一些人生生不息地活着。解说员说其中有一位农民画的作者，今年四十八岁，年轻的时候父母包办婚姻，和不喜欢的人生活了二十多年，直到孩子长大了才离婚，重新过上自主的生活，而这一切都是两年前发生的。
一幅说亲前的谈判也很有意思，媒人坐中间，两边是双方的家长，包括父母、叔叔、兄弟等等。两家人都在谈论该送多少彩礼，请多少客人，结婚的良辰吉日，可是当事人新娘新郎却不知在哪里？我问解说人，她说这时候他们还没见面，这都是两家人之间进行谈判，与他们无关，我无语。
看完农民画，又到一楼看安塞的第三件宝------剪纸。它就像黄土地高原上盛开的野菊花，美丽、质朴而倔强，凡是喜庆的日子，安塞人都忘不了剪纸，贴窗花，每逢腊月天，婆姨们就聚到一起，早早为春节准备剪纸花样，即使是孤身老汉，也要向村里的巧媳妇索取几张剪纸，谁家的窗子不贴窗花，会被众人骂为“瞎眼窗”，是不吉利的。推磨、拉车的情景，喂鸡、耕田、摘果子，各式各样的生肖图，十分逼真。每幅剪纸的下面都有作者和创作年限。其中一位作者的简历吸引了我，说她有精神病，吓了一跳，问解说员，才知道她年轻的时候脾气不好，加上生活穷苦，每次发病时就乱喊乱叫，拿着剪刀狂剪一气，但是剪出来的东西却个个神采飞扬。其实，艺术都是相通的，都是人物心里世界的外在延伸，有的人用音乐，有的人用绘画，有的用雕塑，而生活在这片土地上的人用手中的剪刀。
出发之前还在网上和网友争论什么样的片子称得上史诗，其实争论的焦点在于对历史的理解，一直以来我们都被灌输着由“伟人”和“历史事件”组成了历史，仿佛那些传世的英雄才是历史的主体，可是真实的历史面貌是如何的？若干年前的芸芸众生究竟过着怎样的生活，历史书上记载了吗？一直坚持只有千千万万的普通人的喜怒哀乐才是历史的主题，而所谓的历史事件才是背景，这或许是自己看到《牯岭街少年杀人事件》、《细路祥》、《站台》这样的作品，才会有史诗般的感觉。而眼前这些透着生命气息的剪纸、农民画又何尝不是生活在这片黄土地上的人们的写照呢？他们用自己的方式记录着生活，它让若干年后的我们看到了当时的生活。
从民俗馆出来的时候已经是中午了，阳光明媚，晒在脸上却不觉得热。大街上已经很热闹了，放学的孩子们已经开始成群结队地回家，背着包，行走在这个陌生的北方小城，这一刻，我觉得自己真实地活着，真好。
在集市的小饭店吃了午饭，到车站，本来想看看有没有车直接去绥德，可惜没有，只能回延安去坐车。车上，女售票员在身后唱起了《月亮代表我的心》，在颠簸的山路中不失为一道美丽的音符，只可惜环境太吵，采访机录下的声音已经不能分辨出歌声了。
到延安车站直接坐到绥德的车，18：00到达绥德，一个热气腾腾的城市，到车站的售票窗，去吴堡的车已经没有了，看来只能住在绥德了。布老虎女孩他们应该也在绥德，没有他们的手机，联系不了，只能作罢。在车站旁的名洲宾馆住下，终于可以洗澡了，已经快一个星期没洗澡了，奇怪在陕北天天睡睡袋，背着包行走于尘土之间也不觉得不适应，看来有点融入这样的生活了。
时间：2003-10-6
行程：绥德----吴堡昨天到绥德汽车站的时候就听说去吴堡的路正在修，要绕道米脂，佳县再到吴堡，所以考虑要不要先到靖边。不过到靖边的话再去吴堡就要绕回来了，想把榆林作为旅行的终点，而且《藏羚羊》中描述的古城和黄河边的夕阳散步实在很吸引人，所以举棋不定，看看路况再决定。
一早到车站，正有车去吴堡，小中巴三个小时就能到，想想明天再去靖边也可以，便上车。这一决定实在“高明”，因为在这条路上，终于见到了想象中黄土高原。
一开始车在乡间小道上奔驰了两个小时，路逐渐开阔起来，高原的气势越来越明显。汽车穿行于黄土高原之中，蓝蓝的天空，阳光洒在一望无际的黄土地上，窑洞、不知名的野花，勤劳的人们…….想象中的黄土地就是这个样子了。把头靠在窗子上，仰望着天空，随着弯曲的公路盘旋，远路的高原无尽地伸展，秋天的高原透着一股绿意，不时有窑洞闪过，突然觉得生活的宽广，不知道这样的风景经历了多少岁月的磨难，而这儿的人们世世代代过着怎样的生活？可能在都市人的眼里，这里的生活无疑意味着贫穷、落后和不值一屑，但是千百年来，他们就是这样生生不息。来之前《任逍遥》的访谈中，贾樟柯提到对于生活的理解，谁都是一样的。是的，幸福只是人们对于生活的满意度，本身就没有统一的标准而言，也没有可比性，全在于个人对生活的感受。突然间觉得自己渺小起来，而原来自以为广阔的空间此刻在这种大气之前也显得渺小，尽管知道回去后，依然还要面对那些困惑，但只要心存这一份广阔，就不会枯竭。嗯，我看到了想看的景色。
到吴堡的时候已经是中午了，这是一个很小的县城，只有一条主干道，背着包穿行于其中，人们偶尔回投来异样的目光，但很快就不足为奇了。向人们询问黄河大酒店的方向，就在前面，二十分钟就到了。它的对面就是吴堡宾馆，要了一个能看得见黄河的房间。四楼，房间简单，窗外就是黄河，视野极佳。放下包，吃了碗面。便先到房间休息。
三点半睡够了。下去雇了一辆三轮摩托车，一路颠簸，半个小时后在山底停下，司机说古城就在对面的山头。答谢，便开始大步走向山头。先下一个长坡，然后往上，山腰上有一群窑洞，住着人家。虽是石头路，走起来却一点也不吃力，山上满是星星点点的野花，休息的时候，黄河就在旁边，随着高度的增加逐渐变小，一口气爬上山顶，一道门突然出现在面前，这便是传说中的古城了吧。从主道进去，路边是一座座错落有致的石头房子，大部门已经废弃，它始建于五代十国，北汉政权为吴宝寨，金正大三年（公元1226年）设吴堡县于此，元明清至明国各代，皆为吴堡县城，1947年县城逐废，石砌城埂依山而建，平面不规则圆形，周长1125米，占地约10万平方米，东西南北四门，马面五处，马道一处，城内原有大街一条，店铺十处及衙门、庙宇等石建筑。四十年代大部分毁于侵华日军炮火，城内现有几处清代民居，这便是古城的历史了。四周十分幽静，让人有穿越时空的错觉。由于大部分房子久无人居住，门窗都破了，风一吹，窗纸沙沙作响，在这样阳光的午后，它显得格外的宁静，深深吸一口气，好香的大枣味。随便走进一个院子，门口的地上，石桌上都晒满了红枣，门前还挂着玉米、辣子，典型的北方生活气息。天台上，白发苍苍的老人正在晒太阳，看到自己，露出慈祥的微笑，我也报以微笑。此刻，语言的沟通显得无关紧要，此刻，我更希望自己是一只蜜蜂，被花香吸引到这里，自由地飞翔，对于世世代代生活在这里的人们，我只是一个旁观者，不介入的态度让我觉得轻松。穿过一个天台，在一条城边的小路上坐下来，旁边就是百米悬崖，偶尔有蜻蜓随风飞舞，再往下，就是源远流长的黄河，河边的山滩上，点点行人在劳作，水面上小船飘零着，运沙船哄然而过。对面，便是一望无边的群山，星星点点的窑洞成为一种点缀，打开采访机，歌声缓缓流出：
一切就象是电影比电影还要精彩如此真实的场景让我分不出悲喜这是初次的感觉我想了解这世界充满悬念的生活击打我的心这是初次的感觉好像天空般晴朗………
就这样静静地看着，任凭秋风轻拂在脸上。此刻，要是能用你的相机拍下眼前的风景，那是怎样的美妙？眼前的一切只属于我自己，无人分享，只能一个人珍藏，过去，现在，将来我还要不断地重复这样的情景，一个人在这漫漫的旅途中仔细品味着。
如果时间可以回转，我愿意爱得更从容一点，尽管结局不会因此而改变。
我爱这精彩的世界只因交织着太多的悲喜我爱这精彩的世界如梦幻如空花……..
曾在我心中的伤痛如过眼的云烟初次感觉心就像天空般晴朗
夕阳西下，把采访机放在上衣口袋中，摇晃着，漫步着下山。 《超载》的节奏让我的步伐有了一种随意感，这一刻，无人认识的小镇，我感到无比自由，就像这晴朗的世界。
回到旅馆的时候，太阳快要落山了，便步行到河边的沙滩上，大部分都是当地的人们，小孩们在玩耍，一切都是那么惬意。我要录下这黄河水的声音，很动听。
天黑回旅馆，在集市的小摊上买了1块钱的苹果和梨，有十几个，真是意外的收获。
在哗哗的水流中，安然入梦。
时间：2003-10-7
行程：吴堡---榆林---靖边一大清早就去退房，赶到车站的时候已经7：10，去吴堡的车已经开走，下一班要11点才有。车站内只有一辆大巴去府谷，司机知道我要去榆林后，告诉我可以先到榆林，只要3个小时就够了，然后从榆林到靖边的高速公路只要1个小时，这样算来下午3、4点应该就能到了，便上车。本来说9点开的车，因为人不够，一直到10点才开车，下午2点到榆林。榆林是个热闹的城市，此刻不想细逛，先吃饭再说。 15：00前往靖边，到靖边的时候已经五点了，没有车去统万城，只能住在靖边，按《藏羚羊》的推荐，找到鸿业宾馆，住下。
时间：2003-10-8
行程：靖边----白城则为了防止昨天的误车，今天早晨6：30就退房，到门口拦车。到车站的时候还不到7点，搭去乌审旗的车。 7：30出发，可以从容地吃早饭。
汽车一路北行，沙漠开始在清晨的雾气中慢慢展开，想象中的沙漠应该是一望无际的荒凉，而眼前的沙漠却随处可见沙柳，不知道柳树除了婀娜多姿外，也可以如此挺拔与坚强，底部是不高的主干，然后突然伸出数枝直立的柳手，活像一只章鱼。起伏的沙丘如海的波浪，平静中透着一份诗意。坐在靠窗的位置，就这么傻乎乎的看着，让人有下车徒步的欲望，下一次的旅行计划油然而生。
9：40到白城则，在一条小路边被司机放下，他说翻过那边的山头就到了。上坡，不一会儿就见到“大漠古都，统万雄风，华夏瑰宝，盛世辉煌。”十分有气势。爬到山顶，越过一片沙丘，便见到一个售票处，这便是传说中的统万城遗址了。售票亭是个很小的房间，进去的时候，三个管理员呆了一下，可能没料到这么早便有游客。热情地倒水，还送了一份简介给我。
休息片刻，把背包留在售票处，便前往遗址了。这个位于毛乌素沙漠的遗址，分为西城和东城两部分，远处的宫殿遗址依稀可见，反正是沙漠，没有很明显的路，只要大方向没错就可以了。周围静悄悄的，只听得见自己的脚步声，远处两三匹马正在悠闲地散步，偶尔仰望天空的眼神也是懒散的。整片沙漠都是自己的，突然有点一夜暴富的感觉：）不一会儿，便漫步到西城的宫殿，一千六百多年前的宫殿，此刻却成了燕子的天堂，使人油然而生几分感慨，几分凄凉。这时候听TripHop音乐竟然有意想不到的效果，低沉的节奏，在一片废墟中，迷幻抽象、黑暗诡谲的风格仿佛找到了独一无二的载体，尤其是Massive Attack的那首《Heat Miser》，让人有在废墟中摇摆的错觉，这也算是意外的收获吧。
在往东城的路上，正哼着歌，突然一条蛇飞快地从一边的灌木串到另一边，着实吓了一跳，出发前管理员就提醒过会有毒蛇出现，虽一路小心，可还是冒了一身冷汗，没想到在这么荒凉的地方还有蛇的踪迹。
从统万城下来的时候已经是下午1点了，走进白城则找万荣饭店，饥饿难耐啊，大约走200米，便遇到一个食堂旅社，拨开门帘，老板娘就出来招呼了，五十岁不到，十分热情，知道我还没吃午饭，便招呼坐下喝茶，然后到里面的厨房给我做面条吃。茶的味道很怪，有点咸咸的味道。不一会儿，一碗热乎乎的羊肉面便端上来了，味道那个香啊！聊天当中，我知道这就是《藏羚羊》中提到的万荣饭店，这位女主人有三个孩子，大儿子在北京工作，女儿在村里教书，最小的儿子是个哑巴。她说前面有几个游客来过，一个男的在这住了一周，一个女孩在这住了3天，女孩28岁了还没结婚，晚上住在旁边的房间还要她一起睡，我笑了。她向我打听在北京的记者工作如何，我知道她关心她出门在外的儿子，已经4年没回家了，天下的父母都是如此。
吃完饭，她把隔壁房间的一串钥匙给我，让我先去休息，我知道只有4张床，推开门果然如此，简陋的不能再简陋的四张床。放下背包，此刻能睡午觉真是莫大的享受啊！
一觉睡到下午3点，精神不错，便到村子后的散步。沿着田地的方向有一条很宽的土路，大概是通往外村的。一个人独自漫步，路上时而有马车和拖拉机经过，眼下正是玉米收获的季节，看着劳作的人们，自己倒是有点不好意思。不过在这个靠近内蒙古的小村庄，却没有一点陌生，仿佛二十年前的乡村生活一下子涌上心头。右边是玉米地，左边的沙堆上有一些房屋，不一会儿看到一群孩子放学回家，顺着他们下坡的方向，走到他们的学校，推开铁门，便是一个很小的操场，旗杆在正中央，对面，左、右三面是平房，就是他们的教室。在大门旁的公告栏上，有一篇作文吸引了我。
开满鲜花的校园灿烂的阳光，快活的笑声，充满了校园，从这里升起，轻柔的春风，悠扬的歌声，吹拂着校园，从这里传出美丽的校园芬芳的花朵，让每一个童年鲜花开放，天真的笑脸，把我们的校园装点打扮。
知识的甘露滋润着我们，老师的目光呵护着我们，上课的铃声，朗朗的书声，让每一日子都露珠般晶莹。
啊----这是开满鲜花的校园，这是我们成长的摇篮，走向世界从这里出发，我们在这里扬起轻帆。
少队部1小队五年级马利利字迹工整，放在任何一个小学都是一片不错的文章，可是你一定想不到这个开满鲜花的校园是如此简陋地屹立在沙漠中的，我仿佛能听到他们的欢声笑语，一种很顽强的东西在心中滋生着。
默默地离开学校，回到主道上，继续向前，不久便发现一条只能在电视的MTV中看到的林荫小道，两旁是高高的白杨树，秋风轻拂，走到一半停下，靠着电线杆，把采访机放在脚边。
关于未来你总有周密的安排然而剧情却总是被现实篡改关于现在你总是彷徨又无奈任凭岁月黯然又憔悴离开…….
你计划的春天有童话般的色彩却一直不见到来你撒下的渔网在幸福中摇摆却总也收不回来你始终不明白每一个真实的现在都曾经是你幻想的未来………
是的，在自己已过四分之一世纪的生命中，依然一事无成，未来的方向依旧不清晰，唯一的财富便是能够遵循自己的内心真实地活着。此刻我是自由的，记住这个阳光的下午，我曾那么真切地感受到自己的心跳，那么悠然的景色，这一刻伸手可及。
回到住处时已经接近黄昏，还没吃晚饭，女主人的孙子和孙女在门口的沙土中玩耍，便拿出采访机过去和他们一起玩。 “笑一下，让叔叔给你拍照。”我尴尬地摆摆手，说我没带相机，这个只可以录音。当听到自己的声音时，两个小孩来了兴致，他们笑得那么无邪。大的男孩七岁，小女孩三岁，经常是男孩说一句，小女孩学一句，可惜有的单词我怎么也听不懂，一只山羊，两只山羊，一百只山羊，两百只山羊…….哈哈，怎么像《恋爱的犀牛》中的台词，难道孟京辉曾经在这里得到启发？ ：）男孩最喜欢唱的是《世上只有妈妈好》，各种各样的腔调十分好玩，把他们知道的所有单词都说出来了，仿佛在教我陕西话似的。
不一会儿，小儿子回来了，因为不会说话，对采访机的声音格外感兴趣，便拿去让爸妈唱歌，女主人和老汉站在门口憨厚地摆手，我和他们一起进屋，我知道他们是有点不好意思，在我和小儿子的怂恿下，女主人终于开口唱了一首歌，虽然岁月催人老，但她的歌声中却满含着一种质朴的爱，能想象她当年的嗓音。老汉给孙女喂完饭后，说我也来唱几首。我抑制住心中的喜悦，把采访机放在他跟前，三首信天游，自信、高昂、深情，适合在高原上向远方的姑娘诉说的那种，尽管大部分歌词我没听懂：）
吃晚饭的时候，他们问我怎么知道这里的，我把《藏羚羊》给他们看，说来之前我就知道你们一家人了，我把书的作者指给他们，两位老人互相商量了一下，想起来了，这个后生很不错，在我们这住了四五天呢！老汉端详着书，欣慰地笑着，忽然他指着封面的小孩问老伴说这不是他们的小孙女吗？我吓了一跳，就是那个和我说了一下午，分糖果时洗手洗得很快的小女孩！我又惊又喜，没想到这么有戏剧性！ “那个后生两年前来的，那时候小孩刚好一岁，刚出生的时候脸很圆，现在长大了，不肯吃饭，只吃零食，脸都瘦下去了。”我望着这一家人，吃着炒鸡蛋，不知道该说什么，只是觉得有一种回家的感觉，暖暖的。
聊到九点钟，他们便回去睡觉了，他们的房子在村子里，晚上只有老汉一个人看着，我也告别回旁边的屋子里，不一会儿便沉沉睡去，梦里还能听见信天游…….
时间：2003-10-9
行程：白城则---靖边---榆林---红碱淖早晨6：30起床，天已经亮了，沙漠中的村庄显得格外安静，老汉已经起来张罗早饭了，用水缸里的水刷牙洗脸，那口大缸在自己小时候也用过，那时候一家有十几口人呢。水寒冷清澈，让人精神一阵，准备回房间时，门突然卡住了，原来铁门里面的叉子卡住了。 How to do?老汉知道后用铁条撬门，怎么也撬不开，房间和饭厅中间有一个小门，可是这扇门也锁住了，我问他有没有钥匙，他说很久没开了，不知道钥匙在哪里。 6：45了，车马上就来了，情急之中我碰到裤袋里的一串钥匙，是昨天大妈给我的，不知道这里面有没有钥匙，只好碰碰运气了，没想到第三把就把门打开了，一阵惊喜。门那边用床挡住了，老汉拿来一根大木棍，两人合力把门推开了。
赶快收拾东西，马上就要离开了，我想给他们一份礼物，送什么好呢？除了衣服就是书了。对了，《平凡的世界》，这本由陕西人写的好书应该留在他们这里，希望两个小孩长大后能看到这本书。方便面端上来了，我把书给老汉，老汉拿着书看了一下，收回屋里，不一会儿，他出来说：小儿子喜欢你那本旅游书，哦，我想起来了，昨晚他曾拿着《藏羚羊》看了好久，用手比划着他曾去过的榆林和延安。我把书从腰包里取出来，这本陪伴我整个旅程的小册子，在旅行快要结束的时候找到了它的新主人。
7：00车来，老汉让我把面吃完，不用着急，他出去和司机聊天，我连忙扒了几口，背上包出来时，小儿子正在车边朝我笑着。上车，他们父子俩使劲地朝挥手，我不知道该说什么，简陋的食堂旅社渐渐远去，消失在茫茫沙漠中。可能这辈子都没有机会再来这里了，一路无语。
9：00到靖边，马上换车去榆林，11：20到榆林，去银行取钱，又去吃白族男孩推荐的羊杂碎。有点像家乡的米粉，味道果然很棒。 1.5元一碗，看到对面两个女孩吃一种像烧饼的东西，便问她们叫什么，叙子（音），买了一个，吃得很饱。
12：10到汽车站，本来应该乘去东胜的车，可是东胜的车没什么人，估计不会马上开车，这时候一辆去包头的车说去红碱淖可以先坐车到成陵，再转车只有四十多公里，就上去了，没想到这竟是我最惨痛的坐错车。
10分钟后车出发了，整辆大巴坐的满满的，蒙古人居多，车一路北上，司机是个豪爽的蒙古汉子，一路上开着玩笑，整辆车笑声此起彼伏，虽然我听不懂他们在说什么，好像是关于一个老头的笑话，关于他这辈子取了几个老婆，老头不停地申辩，反而引来更多的笑声。人们抽着烟，嗑着瓜子，车内的乘客有的是做生意的，有的是修鞋的，有的是买羊肉的……在一张张朴实而开朗的脸上，脑中突然奔出一个词：手艺人。一直以来，我一直不知道自己是什么，该朝什么方向努力，一直在左顾右盼，无所适从。可在这一刻，我突然明白自己和他们一样，只是一个手艺人，这一辈子可能都不会大福大贵，有的只是一个手艺人的平凡生活，我唯一要努力的是把自己的手艺练好，和修鞋的一样，作一手好鞋，和打铁的一样，打一口好铁，然后把生活过得有趣一些，这便是我能做到的，一种如释重负的感觉。
14：40到成陵，反正时间还早，便买票进去看看。一路走到顶端的陵宫，刚好有导游，便跟着听这个最好吃火锅，拥有全世界最科学的宰羊方法的民族的戎马生涯。
半小时后便出来到门口拦车，已经三点半了，天在遥远的沙漠中显得格外的蓝，路旁两排叫不出名字的树木让人心情格外愉快，背着包在路边拦车，有点西部片的味道，不用着急，反正往南方向的车都可以，先到新街镇，然后再转车。 10分钟后拦到一辆去东胜的车，没多久便到新街镇，说是一个镇，其实只有两条街，在一个饭店门口，拿出折叠椅坐下，路口的出租车司机不断地过来询问，还说这会儿已经没有车去红碱淖了。可我早就从饭店老板那边打听到五点有一班车，而且打定主意住在那儿，所以一点也不着急，对他开的50元一口还到30元，任凭他怎么磨也不肯松口。当你知道对方的底线和自己的筹码后，谈判就会有意思起来。
五点，出租车司机终于松口了，可是小巴也来了。我笑着收起折叠椅上车，估计他气得够呛。小巴颠簸了半个小时，在一个小岔口把我扔下来，说前面坐快艇到旅游区。走到堤坝上，蔚蓝色的红碱淖就在一片沙漠中悄然出现，这个地处毛乌素沙漠南端，堪称“塞外明珠”的海子果然养眼，在黄昏的余辉中，显得格外宁静。背着包，一路往南，夕阳西下，方圆几公里内都见不到房屋，更不用说人影了，心情也轻松起来。
当风筝飞过城市你举着那枝花等谁那天夕阳落下的模样你始终没对我说
当你离开这城市正是电影散场天黑了你离开了这片海洋只留给我蓝色回声
你挥一挥手正是黎明之前的寂静我终于没能看清那一瞬间的表情
你挥一挥手正好太阳刺进我眼睛我终于没能听清你说的是不是再见
不一会儿，便见到路边有一个牌子，该是乘快艇的饭店了，走过去一看，是一家农家饭店，却叫什么大酒店，哑然一笑，可是走进院子的时候，突然被一家大黄狗吓了一跳，确信它跑不出来时，才慢慢走进去。整个饭店空无一人，可能十一长假已过，人们都散了，显得格外荒凉。门外的快艇荡在水边，无人驾驶。正发呆着，门外有拖拉机的声音，一男一女正在收割稻草，上前一问，旅游区还有十几里路，心一下凉了，望着他们远去的背影，我呆立了。这时候，太阳已经落山，天慢慢暗下来。 How to do?推开地图，不能确认现在的具体位置，应该在湖的东北端，而旅游区应该南面，周围没有什么村庄，只能走到旅游区，趁天还没有完全暗下来。赶快赶路。于是，背上包，开始急行起来。这条沿着湖边的小路并不宽，一眼望不到头。飞快地走着，偶尔有摩托车和汽车来往，可是拦不下来，要是今晚赶不到旅游区，就要露宿路边了。包中的睡袋是有的，可惜没有帐篷，而且抓绒睡袋是抵御不了风寒的。天越来越暗，湖边的风呼呼作响，吹得人冷飕飕的。左边是无边的沙丘，一眼看不到头。地图上标明只有南部有尔林兔镇，估计在十几公里外，现在有点后悔和那个出租车司机砍价了，何苦呢，为了30块钱。可是现在说这些还有什么意义呢？都怪包头司机，明显是耍我嘛？半中央把我扔下来，这下怎么办？包越来越沉，水壶中的水不到三分之一了。周围静悄悄的，只听得见自己剧烈的心跳和呼吸声。这只是一个过程，我一定能走过去，想起四年前被推进手术室的时候，当时躺在架子上，望着头顶上的天花板一一划过的时候，也是这么对自己说的，一切都是人生的一个过程，仿佛是在梦中，或者在一部电影中，而这一次又轮到我当主角了。
李靖和红拂离开洛阳城的时候，也在黑地里走路，他感到自己非常孤独，要不是身边有一个陌生的女人，他就要到在草地上大哭一场，假设有一个贝类离开自己生长的壳，在海水里游了起来，感觉就会是这个样子。我想现在多多少少明白他当时的心情，可是他比我幸运，因为身边还有红拂。当时的红拂穿着被露珠打湿了的白褶裙在草地上走路，透过自己的发香她闻到李卫公身上浓烈的汗臭味，这个风尘中的女子在想什么呢？她是否像我现在这么不安呢？我像她应该不会，因为旁边这个陌生的男人。有时候在热闹的人群中，自己会莫名其妙地孤独，而且乐于沉在其中，我以为自己能够承受很多，可是我错了，在荒凉的大自然中，我竟然如此恐慌！有一辆摩托车从身后开来，停下来拼命地挥手，它丝毫没有减速的意思，飞快地从身边闪过，然后消失在远方。天空中乌云满天，和无边的沙漠、海子连成了一体。一直以来自己都是害怕承受压力，优柔寡断，对自己的未来无从把握。我能给谁带来幸福？不禁苦笑起来。此刻，她在哪里呢？拿出手机，橙色的屏幕似乎也在嘲笑眼前这个无能的傻瓜，一直翻到那条半年前的消息，我停下来，仔仔细细地看着每个字眼，然后一字一句地向着天空，向着沙漠，向着海子喊出来。 “要保重啊！”村上的十五岁的少年似乎就在旁边，坚毅的目光让人低头，我愿意作全世界最顽强的小猪！拿出手电筒，地图和指南针，一直沿着东南方向应该没有错，忘掉出租车司机，忘掉包头佬，这一刻只有靠自己才能走出去。鼓足勇气，继续前进。这时候，远方出现了两个亮光，虽然很小，却十分稳定，应该不是车辆，难道是旅馆快到了？不由得加快脚步，出发前的徒步内环线没有白练，这时候终于派上用场了。可是半小时过去了，亮光依旧遥远，怎么回事？该不是遇到传说中的磷火了吧？身上冒着冷汗。双肩已经被背包勒得酸痛，此刻多想把它扔掉，可是在野外出事的人最大的失误就是把装备扔掉，没有装备，便没有了希望。紧紧地握住背包上的紫色外挂，那是和她买一起买的唯一的外挂，每次外出都会把它挂在肩上的扣环上，这样徒步时就可以握住它，这种感觉就像握住她的手一样温暖。亮光终于靠近了，嘟嘟的响声越来越近了，终于在前方300米的地方，发现了一辆拖拉机，我勒紧背包，忘记了酸痛，狂奔起来。跑到拖拉机前，一个老伯惊讶地看着我，上气不接下气地问前方是不是旅游区。 “是，快到了！”连忙道谢，继续往前走，不到1分钟，拖拉机跟上来了，老伯让我上车，连声道谢，坐在驾驶座的旁边，仰起头，月亮也爬出了乌云，仿佛出来陪我们一起歌唱。二十分钟后，在一家乡间旅馆停下来，走进屋内，灯火通明，一群北方汉子正在饮酒，还有一个人在吹笛子，让人有到仙境的错觉。满屋子的肉香，让我觉得安全。
在楼上的房间放下背包时，才发现背后全湿了。一看时间，快八点了，整整走了两个多小时。换好衣服到楼下，老板娘问我要不要吃鱼，当然要，要一跳大鱼，早就听闻红碱淖的鱼十分细腻可口。她就是刚才拖拉机老伯的妹妹，她让儿子骑摩托车去取鱼，我说我也去。一个十五岁、六岁的少年，十分像我那个读中专的堂弟，只是多了一份北方人的高大，动作十分干练，然人觉得地道。
半小时后，当我在饭店里一个人独享那条九两半的大鱼时，望着周围陌生的人们大块吃肉大碗喝酒时，我憨笑着，和他们一样，这就是所谓幸福的瞬间吧。
时间：2003-10-10
行程：红碱淖----神木---榆林第二天一早起来的时候，天突然变得阴冷，而且开始飘着小雨，和老板一家人吃了一顿丰盛的早餐后，由少年骑摩托车拉我和老伯一起进景区，寒冷的红碱淖空无一人，湖水不断地涌向岸边，本想在这样轻柔的沙滩上晒太阳，天公不作美，艰难来到这里，却是这样的天气。 “明年夏天来吧，这儿游泳很不错。”少年说，我答应了，尽管不知道这个明年的夏天何时到来。
回到旅馆的时候，我突然意识到整个旅程可以结束了，我想回家。一直到11点才等到去神木的车，又是一路颠簸，到神木的时候已经下午一点，在开往榆林的车内吃了方便面，然后又赶回榆林，打车到火车站的时候已经16：40，一天中唯一的一班火车已经在10分钟前离开了。又打车到汽车站，到西安的大巴17：20出发，红石峡看不到了，尽管不能欣赏到《东邪西毒》中的美景，但是带有缺憾的东西才是最美的东西，过于完美就是最大的遗憾。上大巴，躺下便睡。
一直到晚上八半点半才被叫醒，在路边的的饭店吃了碗油腻的羊肉面，连忙买了门口的大枣解腻。回到车厢的时候才想起今天是周五，不知道俱乐部今天是否放片子，发消息给斑竹，他还在四川，得得，大家都在路上。
时间：2003-10-11
行程：西安---上海早晨到西安的时候已经9：40，和10天前到西安一样，又开始下雨了，只不过更加阴冷，看来它已习惯用这种方式迎接自己。
大车到火车站，买了一个小时后回上海的K378，在车站对面的饭店吃了一份难吃的快餐，便到候车室看书。可是11点后，所有东去的列车都晚点，而且都是时间待定，到大厅服务台一问，在河南境内发生自然灾害（后来才知道是列车出轨）。得得，这回什么都赶上了，只能回候车室看书，反正今天下午能走就无所谓。喜欢在陌生的地方看书，这种感觉让我觉得飘浮。
到下午四点钟的时候，候车厅电子屏幕上已经是满满的晚点待定了。难道要被困在西安不成？打听了咸阳机场的航班，五点和八点各有一班，另外可以转到郑州回去。可是坐飞机将大大超出我的预算，而从郑州转车在这样的雨天似乎不够安全，于是我决定等。在候车室遇到两个马上保送研究生的学生和一个准备去上海探望妹妹的银行信贷员，因为等车大家聊在一起，聊到未来的职业，我看到了几年前的自己。
六点听信贷员的推荐去车站广场对面的加州牛肉面吃牛肉面，在等面的时候，一个有点斗鸡眼的戴眼镜的男人走到我面前，说：“朋友，你是学生吗？”我说是。他正色说：“你不像！”然后走了，莫名其妙，回到候车室的时候，已经有通车的消息了，在晚上10点，9点公布消息，稍微松口气。 9点不到，已经有几辆车打出通车时间，并且陆续开走，可是K378还没有消息，这才注意到开车的都是西安出发的，K378是过路车，现在不知道卡在哪。于是赶紧去售票处换T140，它22：40开车，可是根本没有票。 How to do? 10点钟，T140已经开始检票了，背着包在大厅上徘徊，票贩子，后勤人员，茶座，可是非常时期，到处都看不到希望。 10：15我决定再去售票厅碰碰运气，实在不行就换明天的票。当看到屏幕上列出T140的五张票，而且都是座位票时，我简直不相信自己的眼睛和耳朵，奇迹终于在最后一刻出现了，背着包狂奔。 10：35终于爬上车。 “变化就意味着机会”。我突然想起几年前那次瞬间的选课经历。
10月12日晚上5点，终于回到上海，阴冷，放下包。 “我回来啦！”，按发送键。
作者：jude_chen
