Even though I was traveling like a donkey, this seven-day Lunar New Year's leave this did not intend to go out.
But that day 29 years, ICEY give me a phone call and invited me to join go to Phoenix. Phoenix? Two years ago, I had intended to go but did not go into place. The call will then clear Tuo, Zonghei the Diaojiaolou, ancient quartzite, and Hmong children, the temptation of the Tujia again placed in front of me, my heart hopeless excited, though to my zz from sina ICEY too simple the point. I immediately called for leave to be granted no permission to ICEY back after the euphoria of the phone, saying OK, these days let you have arranged.
We are two days of night to go by train, 20 hours of bumps to the mountain Huaihua, but also a car for three hours into the mountains. The weather was not very good shade, and in Hangzhou, and even snow when the weather forecast. Train in the Jiangxi Province for a moment when the sun exposed face, the train dressed in the sun on the Mercedes-Benz in the wilderness feel good. But the weather was finally getting gloomy, while the journey too long, and we are a bit boring up.
Car on a winding mountain road circle turn full circle. That edge of the baby cute couple holding a tight grip, sparkling eyes, has always been curious to visit me, play into his innocent little face a face a few very interesting. Finally turn a mountain, road side there was a clear stream, the man of the Tao which is Tuojiang.
Has experienced a long wait we have come to the spirit of craned to explore the really right in front of the Phoenix. Gap in the mountains and the Tuo River at the junction of two shore neat places along the river next to thick Diaojiaolou, antique, perhaps because the Spring Festival is also hung with red lanterns. In the bleak winter, relieved against the sombre colors appear even more of these light-colored eye-catching look of their precious, the atmosphere inside the car suddenly become active again.
Car through the South Gate of the castle straight Chiru city, streets are not wide, on both sides of the building also tends to be some older,. Like most of the town's bus station, as the Phoenix station is not very clean, so when we get off when a woman attracted our attention. The Sister Chan dressed, and looked a little further points shy, not like other soliciting person, as chatter, three of the representations made by second language later, we decided to go to accommodation to her there.
Took us through the busy streets, after Hongqiao, Chen older sister's family hotel tower next to the 10000 in Sandy Bay, the environment it is to our own satisfaction, put aside his pack we teach you the ancient city of hurried out.
City is very lively, four are dressed in colorful ethnic costumes Miaonv them the stalls, while dressed in Jackets carrying a gun like the lens in which sight-seeing people walk through the so-called here, are filled with the best explanation. Amy is a girl's nature, ICEY silverware shop in the streets suddenly saw his eyes glow, an inattentive to flee without a shadow. I do blame the one called the Himalayas are very interested in the outdoor shop, surprise, surprise here, there will be outdoor gear shop and ran into the slip of the lap, come out when we got to risk losing themselves. Although is filled with human beings, but I do not know where to go to his companions ran, and had a person walks by a stroll to the streets.
The initial impression is that the Phoenix apart from a few more characteristics of ethnic minorities, some similarities with other town. Similarly, quartzite has paved streets, ancient Mulou, hanging red lanterns, and those that exist because of tourists shops. Had been to a few southern town, compared with more changes in the Phoenix, bars, Internet cafes, youth hostels, and even outdoor stores, and make adding some modern atmosphere.
It made me certain amount of frustration, which have been read over Chenlao's "Bordertown," Phoenix in my mind should be a handsome ancient beautiful town, but did not expect it from afar came to a familiar town.
Before I give dozens of rechargeable battery is fully charged, with the 512M of the CF card, as I intend to make good use cameras to record Nazhi beautiful Phoenix, but the viewfinder is hard to find dash of a complete picture. Gary is always crowded old house stood next to 12 modern buildings, a completely different building materials to both potential, such as fire and water, while the Hongqiao after the repair has become of reinforced concrete skeleton. Only in the Hongqiao was less than 100 meters below the river side, breathing like a border town retains the last of the old Yan. There are dozens of buildings where the sheer Xiangxi Diaojiaolou, Weiweiququ to provide the final evidence of the ancient once.
Online there is a comment on the Phoenix, "Phoenix general is a famous article where the article are not familiar with the person Shen Cong-wen no need to go, people familiar with Shen Cong-wen there is no need to go." Phoenix is such a people to people guess expectations but disappointing place?
Street not long, round-trip stroll of the two circles meet unexpectedly after the negligent several companions, free to buy some kind of silverware taste not fresh Jiang Tang, when everybody was determined to go to big chop bait over the pages quickly. Find more of a style of shops, fleet has its name for the Louwai Lou, I do not know Louwai Lou What is their relationship with the Hangzhou. Going House to sit Ping Chuang, wood Lou's window is Tuo, call a few shops to taste the local specialties. The red fern is indeed refreshing, but the smoked rabbit meat but it is biting immobile, it is tough for some time finally gave up and decided to stay Tutu a whole corpse.
Back at the hotel, the master has come when we are much honored guest, not only had prepared a fire so that we Kaohuo Tang also wait on handing out fruit, which gives us the money which came from the city used to be people in some favored access to services such as shock. This evening we chatted like roasted on fire days.
Miao
Sister Chan helped us early in the morning to arrange chartered, the Pro also superimpose on the bus with a bag of citrus to eat. Mercedes-Benz cars on the road for nearly an hour, fields, mountains, Longbridge, South Wall in the car window flash, out of a Miao Miao Village gate and took us into the little girl.
Because, as the Chinese New Year, stockade where Miao people together performances. Guangdong to a lucky visitor program to join a married marry a beautiful Miaonv, is happy he crowed, but suddenly a group of pro-Miaonv with the pot on the ashes of his big Erhualian painted. It turned out that a local custom, the old chap had no choice but to accept such a blessing stunned by.
Also a group of people pulled out of several large drums pound, would be to knock up, and then they together form a circle dance. Action is not complex and with a distinctive ethnic characteristics, stomping yo drink, they dance very dedicated. This is a jubilant atmosphere infected everyone, even those who are not from the spectators cheered, I was also jumping to rise up into the circle. Just look at this dance may seem very simple, I can not help but jump the first jump but clumsy. The edge of the little girl look at me jump so ugly, it is estimated not to accept a little bit, quickly taught me a few moves. Tiao Wan Gang Dance also gives us a group of people out of respect rice and tastes sweet. ICEY do not have to drink to be put off, I am afraid to affect national unity and quickly robbed drink, bowls alcohol Xiadu wait a long time I was afraid of being turned irrigation, decided to walk around inside the stockade.
Stockade built on mountains, slender and high smoke building, a khaki-colored walls, while a large number of houses and roads, using stones as building materials, road corner stone Luzhou have that clean, oh, there are opposite to shake the tail came a big black dog.
We randomly walked into a family, the owner greeted us warmly at once sat down Kaohuo Tang, and we also chatted up potential and the owner. Miao everything curious, fire hung in the back of the Tang is the bacon, is said to be hung for at least a month, but I look at the piece of meat, firewood Xunde have been black, there is oil dripping down from time to time; legend Here in the old Bank of each a little pressure Xiangdi seen and we are interested in, they opened the collection of silverware wrapped layers so that we play with; while I am more interested in right Miaonv clothes are generally dark wood machine The handwoven cloth, or lattice flowers, light green, or blue ink, cuff trousers with a few miscellaneous multi-use of the edge of the beautiful color is the ingenuity of the embroidery or just ordinary cloth patchwork scrap cut, and then add the special style embroidery on the apron, a hand-woven flower belt, put on the body gives a healthy, simple, unusual and moving impression. 毎pieces of clothing comes with built silversmith jewelry, in color coordination and the overall effect is really beautiful and harmonious. People feel that it reflects not only the individual beauty of the sentiment, or this nation a deep and ancient culture.
Here, however, the level of development is backward, zhaili a college students were considered to be a great thing. Our little girl has always been accompanied, thin only 12 years of age who ask. In the city, the age was simply a fanciful children to their parents, but she is a just little adults, and also in the Walled there are still many like her children. Then I began to regret not prepared for little gifts, have a friend in Hangzhou, when reminded that there were very poor, if given the kids a little pencil eraser-like they would be happy.
Here I have a little feelings, the beauty of many places have been protected because of poverty and backwardness, if developed, and economic growth but at the same time has destroyed his beautiful. But we have reason to stop Quemei, because we have no reason as we enjoy the cars in the city of villas and other products of modern civilization, but some places still retain the classical requirement to retain the original, or even keep the poor, Qi injustice. I hope that these places can be integrated into the outside world, but also want to maintain their human appearance.
黄丝桥古城黄丝桥古城close, on the edge. In fact, Sister Chan has said here, do not look worth mentioning, but since has come to always have a look. Some of the ancient city is very old, and around the retaining walls of the week 686 steps, while the city has just built in AD 686, I wonder if this is not for a coincidence. Southwest from the city, reportedly only 60 years away from Tongren, Guizhou. In addition to these things no other impression on the ancient city, which is much larger than the substance of a known place.
Walled slate
South of the Great Wall was originally planned, but a look at the ground, winds in the mountains in recent years, according to the Ming Dynasty Great Wall was built to city defense Yu Miao new, artificial traces of a very thick, not help no interest in, and he changed to a slate Walled.
Walled This is the Qing stone barracks, South Great Wall has been renovated, as recently as a dual slate Walled still maintain the original style. Here is a very curious stone, roads, houses, walls and even the roof by a piece of stone tablets Dacheng. But these are natural stone, people take them only from the mountain which saved.
Today, the stockade, only the elderly and children, and there are a few yellow-dog and plump pigs. The children to see the stranger coming excited, the children were shy hiding after the bigger boy had lit a few firecrackers are still coming, I wonder if that we are enemies.
Back to the Phoenix FB, ate a dinner of fish pass very cool, it took all of 50, cool.
Phoenix Walking
We decided to spend a full day walk in the Phoenix, a good feel for the Phoenix. Clamored for a better person to be collecting folk songs, but God knows, she came back with their own DC asked me to teach her how press the shutter.
Early morning we walk in the Tuojiang side. Early morning fog Tuojiang micro, as I hope, as see Diaojiaolou and riverside Huan Yi women, and the mountains, the clear reflection of light-fang printed on the river gone, as a beautiful painting. I would also like her art, but hate only the lack of expertise on the hands of the A70.
Phoenix can be divided into Old Town and New Town, the old town as far as possible to maintain the original appearance, even with the new Mulou have also followed the old style. In the Phoenix streets in hanging around, looking forward to looking forward to. The old mansion houses scattered in the Old City, that the stone road, riverside wooden structure Qingwa Diaojiaolou, the ancient city of openings, Ming and Qing style horse walls, doors and windows decorated courtyard and stone carvings, etc. I like to enter a time tunnel -- - Shen Cong-wen's novels sailor, boatman from their openings and out of this city had it?
However, based purely wooden structure houses have been rare, but as debris scattered in the Old City as among the mainstream brick-wood structure of the. This may be because the wooden structure houses not long resist the wind and rain erosion and scouring the years, while local residents will naturally be more willing to choose a solid new homes more comfortable, but for tourists to come here looking for the past, you can not help but have a kinds of "no return to Come," the melancholy.
Tuojiang not slow the flow with no quick fix, like the beat of pedestrians over the Tuo River in the weeds with the water hovering to install Tuojiang confused as charming fantasy of jade.
The most of local characteristics of the Diaojiaolou temporary dike was built on the wooden structure houses the main body and the general housing similar, the difference is that Diaojiaolou stuck Etsutsumi one, and supported with a long wooden feet above the river, it seems, Jigen Shu-jun hearty vertical lines, uprooted from the surface of the water above the dotted line Crimping more delicate face, strong sense of rhythm. No wonder there are many works of local batik is Diaojiaolou as its theme. And this ancient building is located in the river flows slowly above, do not have a memorial service past the taste.
Which gave me the deepest impression is that the locals and simple. Shops to buy things here, quoting the price is also cheap, so almost no counter-offer. Walk into any shop, the owner will greet you like a Friend. We often stroll into a store to buy something, the result is the boss sat far apart on fire Tang chat, like the long-awaited reunion of old friends. Little town, walk the streets wearing Jackets visitors back camera, walked up and down often encounter, so Xiangshiyixiao.
Liu cannon is a local well-known batik artist, who has opened the exhibition in Australia, we have come to visit specially attracted. Elderly people about 60 years old, very talkative, giving us the batik works of art features. His studio works are mostly based on the theme of the Phoenix, in the dark blue of the background sketched out on a white, some with ethnic characteristics of the pattern, while others are Phoenix style, depicts the riverside Diaojiaolou bears no relation an extension, written for the wooden pillars in the water height varies uneven, as with the old melody from the Tuojiang grow out of trees. My favorite is an abstract faction, put a few simple lines carrying a basket carried on the Miaonv two very vividly carved Unfortunately, elderly people says that this map creativity is a professor at Hunan Normal University, there are copyright, not to sell.
Mr. Shen Cong-wen's inscription says: "According to my thinking, able to understand me; as I thought, could understand me." Expectations from the beginning, to the disappointment of the early arrival, and then to now, I feel I started to understand why so love him Chenlao The home of the. As Huang Yongyu said that his hometown: "should be so small, so delicate and close-knit, then the strong."
I appreciate Phoenix's quiet, elegant and simple, maybe in the future I will come here to live a long, calm my heart in Fan Chen in the complex.
Friday, February 20, 2004
Author: ccnn
