1 month ago in Huizhou is called "alternative living" coffee drink coffee bookstores, do not intend to read an article on the ancient city of Phoenix, the heart of one of the movement, he gave the Phoenix included in this year's excursion plans. Just in the hands of the project quickly drawing to a close, would also like to take this opportunity to relax, they decided to go to Phoenix to spend the weekend. Decision was made on Wednesday (March 10) under, Thursday night in online search some information on Phoenix travel information, Huizhou Friday morning starting from 9:00 to 12:55 in K502 Guangzhou Train ride. Hunan Jishou stations are arriving Saturday morning, 7:20. Listen to the conductor on the train behind, said a few soft sleeper carriages full of travel to Phoenix, so hurry down the vehicle on the residence of the Phoenix Contact. Preferred to call "people Tuojiang Inn" (Phoenix - Back to Dragon Court 13, wins Tsui House, next door, Tel :0743-3224558, package Aunt), the defendant has been in full up. Then call on the 2nd goal - "Yu Yi Inn" (seize Tsui House, next door next door next door, Tel :0743-3226971, Guo Daisow), that there is room, immediately set a window of the packet, the 60 yuan day. Guo Daisow very enthusiastic about coming to Jishou pick me, I said I could find her own office, before anything. Side of the station square and then the "Railway days Luda Hotel" booked a Sunday back to Guangzhou K504 plays soft sleeper tickets This centering carefully set in the "day trip" with the breakfast.
Jishou to the Phoenix, 52 kilometers to catch the 8:35 bus bound for Phoenix in the Jishou CMB. Jishou out, there are some in the road, about 3 kilometers or so, then road Yes, it is a two-lane asphalt mountain scenery on both sides good, rape a small piece of a small piece of the open side of the road, where the mountain terraces. Soon began to drizzle, and small, and quickly stopped. The G209/2356 at very refined.
10:10 to reach the ancient city of Phoenix. The first leap into the eye is Hongqiao, in the ancient city in a walk for an hour, jump in the Tuojiang rock edge of "the ancient city of Rye" bar drinking a cup of coffee, and then find a "Yu Yi Inn." Today is the Lunar New Year 23, is a mountain river (Miao) country fair day, to lay down their luggage, they would inquire about Guo's sister Daisow route to the Mountain River. Finally, Guo Daisow help call a taxi, talking about a good price 120 yuan, send me to the mountain river and黄丝桥古城, 98 kilometers back and forth. Shan Jiang and黄丝桥古城in Phoenix two directions, each about 25 kilometers. Mountain River go to the market a little unworthy of the name can be discarded. 黄丝桥古城also can go to not to.
16:40 Back to the Old Town, in the Hongqiao restaurant for tea, then go to the streets, in the one called "old-hee," the jewelry store and bought some cushion cover. The boss is a girl, called snow, not a local, from the Guangdong over, because I like this place, so I decided to stay down, rented a facade, the lease is four years. Shop during the day, at night is a place to sleep. A similar story in Lijiang are many.
19:00 to snow recommended "Killer restaurant" to eat. Point of glutinous rice, chili pie, Boletus ? ?, fried bracken and beer. Taste good, and cheap, only 25 yuan.
20:00 Back to the "Yu Yi Inn." Guo Daisow sister to see me back, reminding me of the first wash bath, said other tourists to come back late, you may return to water shortage.
21:00 bath out of the inn, stroll back to the streets. Are still a lot of tourists on the streets, linger shuttling between the various shop, bargaining sound, play sound, shouting partners sound, actually a bit noisy.
22:00 wandered Mr. Xiong Chengzao the batik shop, shop is his own (and bear is the Huang Yongyu distant relative, while the yellow is Shen Cong-wen's nephew). Store covered with his batik works.
Bear's work is very artistic skills, I quite like it, but expensive. After the shop so late, and no other tourists to patronize only been to one, and asked prices in the next left. Anyway, all idle without incident, he chatted with his wife opened Xiong. He saw I liked his work, they would since I introduced him batik unique skills, how to use wax on the cloth first smoothing painting, how to dip into the dye vat in, batik is how the texture out. Getting quite a bit I suggested that he could be in Beijing or Shanghai to open a store, so that more people can enjoy his works of art, you can also make more people aware of the Phoenix, but also to obtain considerable economic benefits. He was a bit seductive, but not resolved, saying that his daughter still in school, he left the Phoenix side of the business and family not be able to take care of. My feeling is that he was very hesitant, and some worry about the outcome, this step is not taken the house. I do not know if this is not the Phoenix mountain border town in this person's a unique character. This reminds me of "Fortress Besieged" in his hometown Fang Qian described the character of the passage of people, "and that the county they were living in large cities, the three kinds of dried Nine out of ten trades: blacksmith, grinding bean curd, lifting the sedan chair . native to Ni Wawa in the most famous works of art; young people to university to study civil engineering the most. iron hard, tasteless tofu, chair of the capacity of small, coupled with the soil gas, is this their folk customs. "
Finally, I fancy a "Water Lilies" batik painting, the price is 600 yuan, have not brought me how much cash, they said, come tomorrow morning to buy a good. Leave passed at midnight.
Leave Xiong batik shop, into one called "Rangers" bar, just to "win Tsui House," the edge of that, the way back to Dragon Court, from where I lived, "Yu Yi" Inn is also close. Chose a window table to sit down, the window is Tuojiang. Back to the Dragon Pavilion side of the river houses are built in accordance with, and more than half built on the ground, a small semi-stretched in the air, floating part of the support on the waterfront in order to Jigen stakes above. This building commonly known as "Diaojiaolou", is quite distinctive. In the Shen Congwen's novel "Border Town" have on "Diaojiaolou" description. Each bar under the table had given birth to a charcoal, charcoal fire flickering. A bit cool at night, especially in the spring night, with charcoal, both in mind and body feel a touch of warmth. Li Ren few bars, bar owners, Mao Mao (left of a peach head, reminiscent of "Willful" inside Taoguliuxian), and a friend sat at one table, wearing a Chinese-style gown, smoking cigars, drinking wine and beer, at the foot of roasted on fire, a bit funny. He is said to the people of Shanghai. There are five tourist bars. I drank a bottle of beer, feeling a bit hungry stomach, but also ordered a banana pancake.
6:30 am wake up, back of the room, luggage storage at the inn and came out. 7:00 North Gate Ferry has not officially open for business. 30 yuan to the boatmen, set me a people to Tuojiang rafting. Morning, few tourists, visitors hear the hustle and bustle surrounding sound. Tuojiang water is also becoming more and more clear, and just not fortunate enough to see the river the surface of the thin floating smoke.
Float all the way to go until the Shen's cemetery will be abandoned boat that I returned. Shen Cong-wen's tomb on the shore of a hill slope, only the monument and there is no coffin. The monument is an irregular multicolored stone, the front engraved with Shen's famous line, "as I thought, I can understand. According to my inquiry, which could meet some people.", The other side is Shen Cong-wen's wife's sister's inscription "non-discount not from, nor Ci is also Let, l'etoile and his writing Motherland its people. "
He visited the tomb of Shen Cong-wen, the ED also not far from a mountain walk. The foot of the next small piece of cauliflower bloom is thick. Go a little bit tired, then a taxi back to the ancient city. Shops on the streets one after another in the welcoming door. In the streets on a stroll around in a circle, the stomach is also empty, then look for a snack in the street shop, drank two bowls of plain porridge, eating two fried fritters, fried off on a sour mustard, and beans, fill the stomach, feels very good, but also a walk in the ancient city of four, mainly along the shore Diaojiaolou.
10:15 ferry across to the North Gate, "the ancient city of Rye" bar, tired, and would like a cup of coffee, sit down. Embark on the second floor, closest to the stairs of a place to sit. Bar when there are no other guests, only the owner and a waiter in the sun. Point of a cup of mocha, sit down and chat with the boss. Guangdong boss who invited a few friends the morning of his foot to a nearby reservoir bicycle outing, but this a few friends long overdue. 11:00 or so, his friends - two girls finally appeared, and he warned the other. The other owner (which is 2, and later heard that a light snow Jiaoe Liang, a Jiao Ehui. I judge newcomers Jiaoe Hui, as compared with younger) Fred came to the top classes. Xia Zhao coffee chat with with Fred.
"Watch who" jump on a bridge on the river bank. Called jumping bridge (jump rock) is a square concrete piles a hit shallow waters, exposed surface portion of the river for pedestrians. Water is large (the upstream reservoir drainage) Bianqiang jump the bridge submerged. River are home in the laundry in one hand and holding a mallet in one hand and flip the clothing, the water's edge with stone on the beat. Increased visitors this hour. The other side of the North Gate ferry, travel agents, to pull tourists come here to take a boat tour Tuojiang. There is no lack of tourists a good thing, by the people's gavel, a show and a 32 under the hammer, to take photographs as souvenirs, quite boring. Talking about local celebrities Huang Yongyu, listen to Fred talk, Huang had a bad ground in the Phoenix, although he wealthy side, the feng shui in the ancient city the best place (which can be the high ground overlooking the ancient city) built a Villa, named "Yu s mountain room, "vicious dog inside. He is also the outskirts of Florence, Italy enclosure 75 acres, there is a castle, but he has not been a force for the local out, so the locals did not like him, he was walking on the streets in the ancient city, no one greeted him. He is out of the Qianhuhouyong. Fred Huang also said that four days ago, come to his bar coffee bars of his entourage asked for special treatment, Fred said that they are too lazy reasons. Later, Huang said to be pure point, his entourage who will have to sit outside and wait. Of course, the most respected in the local devaluation Shen Cong-wen was that he let the world know of the Phoenix, Song Zuying (Hunan Guzhang persons) in Phoenix is also very popular, said Song at their own expense took a MTV, publicity a bit Phoenix.
Leave "watchers", to visit the former residence of Shen Cong-wen, the house is only one forward, too worn out. With his nephew, Huang Yongyu in sharp contrast to the mansion. Idea is to help the poor refining on the!
Street, on which make and sell Jiang Tang's shop a lot, I Shen Congwen old home next to an alley in the find a one called "the town of pole Chang" and Jiang Tang workshop, looked very clean, the materials used are authentic, packaging is very Exquisite, small packaging kraft paper bags are hand-drawn maps of the Phoenix, outer cartons on a detailed text description. High prices a little, 5 yuan for a small (2 pouches), I only sell the two boxes.
12:30 to "ancient-hee," light snow was brought in to prepare dishes for lunch, to see me coming, they invited me along with the rice - liver, meat cooking and fishing plus a dish of water Kenichi. Come in the middle of a tourist shop to buy things, there is a big sister accidentally process a little straight-backed chair Pengdiao mahogany on the ground, broke, and caused a number of disputes, the final cost of 120 yuan for the big sister to bring this small Crafts (two straight-backed chair plus a coffee table) bought. Snow heart come back to this very happy, I propose a pot of tea and listen to music, but she said that out of a bad mood bubble tea does not taste good, give me a cup and tea to make myself drink tea. Have been very few tourists to patronize the afternoon, and one of her shops are not the most lively streets, the second is most of the tours from the morning had left the city after another has. Then move the two small stool, sitting under the eaves, shop front, basking in the sun, chatting, or the observation and from the passers-by. Snow said that when the low season for tourism, she would break the shops and travel a month. Low cost of living here, life without the burden and pressure of weight, life was calm, she likes that kind of life.
15:00 to leave the "ancient-hee" Go to "Xiong batik shop." Mr. Xiong Chengzao see me on, then ask me how come so late, I explained that the morning nine or ten I came over, and shops still closed. He said that when he went to buy food, and specially for me to do a "community meal", but I did not come, the results of nearby residents smell a "community meal" of the fragrance, all over discuss the food. Q. I have not eaten lunch, I said, eaten there in the snow. In Mr. Xiong's insistence, I was eating a bowl. Do not eat do not know, otherwise you really want to regret. "Social rice" with the Shanghai Vegetable Rice about the lard, which put the meat, far more is the increase of a local wild vegetables and wild onions, wild greens and wild onions first oil Chaochu fragrance, then add uncooked rice (half rice, half of the glutinous rice), and cured meat, cooked with a pressure cooker, that has become. Strongly recommended to try the Phoenix after the "Society of rice", but said that buying outside the "community meal" it's bad, good to have the opportunity to local people eat at home.
Mr. Xiong bought a piece of batik painting "Water Lilies", Mr. Xiong me a message in his book, I wrote "It's like your works and for others, also likes to eat you have to do community meals." Parting he gave me a batik T-shirt, may feel that not enough special, he see me like the lotus, they spread out T-shirts, the idea of improvisation in the above, the use of T-shirts ready-made batik blocks of color, and sketched out a pieces of lotus map, T-shirt was also signed his name on the seal cover. This is not wearing a T shirt. And finally with Mr. Xiong Chengzao in his T shirt batik shop front, together with the co-Chang Ying.
Farewell Mr. Xiong was already 16:45 in. "Watcher" and rieng and Fred, as well as "ancient-hee," the snow is a recommendation to me too "SOUL Su" coffee. From there I finally left the Phoenix more than an hour, they decided to "prime" to pass my time in Phoenix last point.
"Prime" position quite well, in the "wins Tsui House," next door, is located on the road back to Dragon Court, back to Long-ko is a Pei Ho Street, quartzite of road. "Su" facade is very small, less than three meters, open the floor of the wood-framed glass doors, Yoshio - "prime" the owner is the Internet, shop no other guests. House has two floors, the bottom of that street-layer under the surface there are 3 meters left and more room downstairs has been replaced with wooden lattice windows large frameless glass, more warmth, noise, sight Yehao. Jingan Park with the "Laguna" echoes the bottom. But I still prefer sitting up there. Open the wood, Hongqiao in close proximity, near the line of sight without the slightest Diaojiaolou effects. The evening sunlight shot at the bridge opening wall, the brightest moment of my heart when feeling very special. This moment, like a photo into the heart to go, for fear can not be forgotten.
Asked for a cup of Espresso, quite authentic. I sat in the bar stool, looked up and the green is the Hongqiao Tuojiang water, occasionally Qingliang the right song floating over the surface is also Congjiang. Gif in the bar just inside the edge to pack the gear side coffee chat with me. In fact, last night, my next door "wanderer" bar saw him, he and Mao Mao sit together, Retention handful of beard on his chin, did not last long (beard), smoking a pipe, Jingwei, speaking in Mandarin, I thought He is Beijingers do. Listen to snow later that he is actually Cantonese in Beijing a few years of life, during the SARS epidemic in 2003 to Phoenix, and later opened this "prime" coffee. They are related to "Tuo others" Aunt familiar Inn packages. Other friends introduced the "prime" time, that he here to do the best coffee is authentic, but there is no quasi-open for business time, would like to open the door to a few points to open the door before 5 pm yesterday open the door. Gif also acknowledged that in his words, he likes where this rotten rotten life, lazy rhythm. Never mind when he will sit in the window, watching people across the riverside washing clothes, watching tourists play. He said that many tourists like to take pictures attractions rental costumes, clothing, or Bai Miao's no problem, the most funny is that someone wearing a Mongol and Manchu clothes photographed in Phoenix. Gif said that in the summer when the afternoon sun through the bridge opening Hongqiao, after the surface reflection, the scene projected onto the wall of his bar, he likes that moment.
Taiwan look at the table, over a 6 pm. Good-bye to Gif and his "SOUL", return to the "Yu Yi" Inn took the luggage. To leave the city, in the bus station called the cars back to the taxi Jishou to talk about a good price is 50 yuan. The driver take him quickly, the night quickly Chenxia Lai, I and I alone of the Phoenix gradually submerged in the darkness inside.
Author: zhouxindong
