At 8:00 on April 15, waved goodbye and Fuzhou Mix, after braving the rain and fog, I walked way out of the damp quartzite Hong Guan, Hui Rao started along the trail to the foot across hispida in Anhui Province. I would like to climb the towering mountains of this vast, that is, Zhejiang Ling, is the Qiantang River, one of the four sources. Quartzite ridge of the mountain road further and further with the Zhejiang high, winding to the north extension has now been revised to pass from the Lingjiao Xiuning road, so very few people taking this ancient road, and in crossing the Zhejiang Ridge throughout the trip, only to encounter two carrying tea from Xiuning to Lingjiao a peasant woman. Because fewer people walk the trail at a number of road has already been shaded by the lush trees and bushes in the. Coincides with rhododendrons in full bloom of the season, when I walk in on both sides full of red and pink rhododendrons in the quartzite road, listening to the melodious warbler tree forest, strong legs Gaohang wonderful sounds, although the climb covered with sweat, but the mind never mind How beautiful!
Climbing for about an hour, much to see there is a vague half-slope buildings, could not help but wonder who will be alone in a single to a home in such a remote place. Climbed to the front only to see the original line of passers-by is the seat for the rest of the stone house, called "bird's nest Pavilion", tut, it's name from the multi-Well, people here know the climb is definitely tired and thirsty, need for fortification, ah, come give you a spirit of bird's nest. Do not eat bird's nest, but fortunately there咱chocolate bar will fill point. Continue to walk, approaching another peak at a stone house called the "bridge of the nose Kong Ting," Oh, eat bird's nest, contentedly tick on the teeth, pull the pull the nose, from the refinement to large secular, in fact, also such a short walk. Then a few flash floods washed through the rocks into a slope, all of this is due to open the highway caused by the flash floods washed even the stone had been without a trace. Save a few hundred years is still intact so the emblem of Rao Road, and was finally able to escape destruction by the fate of the machine civilization really made me feel both sad and helpless ah.
After about two hours of arduous trek, successful ascent. Peak of the stone, saying "back to Chun-Ting", a one-person Tingbian erected a tall monument, the inscription, "Chu Wu sub source" four characters, next to block a small pillar, the side carved Jiangxi Province, the other side of the inscribed Anhui, Jiangxi and Anhui provinces here is the junction. I have a foot of land in Jiangxi, another foot of land in Anhui Province, across the provinces, drinking coffee, Everywhere around, and distant mountains make Dai, mountains solemn, lunacy Lin Dang, luxuriant grass low-V, the hearts of both infinite beauty in the Xianfeng sense of accomplishment and the joy of victory, after the ancients have not seen a pre-come, between heaven and earth not see only my independent tragic and puzzled.
Peak Fat strike an emotional investment to go back to the last glimpse of Wuyuan, I started down the mountain, wore strands of rain drift toward Xiuning. This section can only walk along the newly built roads, quartzite road has been obliterated. Has come to the roadside block marked "XO15 50KM" the way the word monument where quartzite road re-emergence, and I also go quartzite road. Go for a while, there is a stone house, following the Chi Pavilion, continue to follow the back roads, but fortunately, quartzite across the road is still carried on the highway. This section of quartzite road goes on, it should be the emblem of today's most beautiful section of trail Rao, standing height, whiten into a zigzag path of quartzite embedded in Manshan green tea, the foot of Department, a long with moss stone bridge in the mountain streams, the quartzite way to bypass the bamboo forests in the mountains after the disappearance. I am down to the foot of the mountain, passing through a household farm, and accompanied by gurgling stream of quartzite road has come to an end, cross the bridge, quartzite Road, a road to be completely replaced. Sitting on the bridge sipping water, looking back with misty hills of quartzite way and I quietly soaked deep to this Huizhou local flavor, countless thousands of years, carrying a strange land of the Huizhou merchants rushing their pursuits and hope Hui Rao Road farewell.
Afternoon walk around noon before the village of Xiuning Zhang, this is a quiet little village, when the villagers saw me carrying a big bag in the village, have stopped work across quietly looked at me, it seems a backpacker in the Here is the Xi Ke fairly. Asked the villagers learned that a day here, there are twice-car to the county in the morning at eight intervals, there are a group of more than three in the afternoon, but three more in this class will be canceled if a person varies from, in order to be safe, I decided to Or a way to move forward. At this time, the sky clear up, and the sun shining on my ass-line is not a good thing. Along the road, has reached more than two points, and finally reach the plate bridge township, road Beishang marked "XO15 37KM", ie from the Peak-to-board bridge township has 13KM. 8:00 am departure from Hong Guan, exactly gone more than six hours, my journey through Anhui, Jiangxi, ended in victory.
On-board bridge township government before the snack bar to eat lunch, no vegetables, only the wild, then point a wild bar, did not expect the boss wife a dark side out of a group thing, I see a while nausea, dare not under the chopsticks? Boss said they ate wild plants are not so smashed here, eating, can not do anything, I had to own hands-a. Start with basket caught a lot of dried vegetables, soaked in large plastic bucket, and then their own thin vegetables, a total wash out the three small insects, cleaned it, but also their own wild speculation, let me Da Xiashou boss. Just a moment Kung Fu Chao Chu boss look at me a green vegetable, but also a bit echocardiography, and said so after the speculation that she should look forward to eating.
After dinner drinking green tea such as mellow in Xiuning car, three more cars came, and empty. Their cars and obtaining the extremely slow, 37KM to open the road for nearly two hours. I get off the road in my country, transfer to Yixian County, quick to get to 6:00. About cars, agricultural vehicles and 3 mo's flock, shouting "Hongcun 2", on the vehicles for agricultural purposes, to Hongcun.
Hongcun arrival, it had more than 6:30, and I thought This is just great, and selling of votes of the people should work in. May be open to south, the lake's outlet, the driver said that some people still at work, so I took the big bag flat, I saw three people turned out at the ticket stand, but because of the tension, I forgot to Look at the box office the window is not closed. Yi Liuyan in the car rushed past the end of the South Lake was stopped, the driver stopped the car and asked where I live. I know his intention, they say have been booked, but he was not willing, it has always followed the Qin F, I went to the lake. Later, I heard Wu Qin F, boss, said that drivers should be on her ten-dollar money; Moreover, the ticket of that three men are not the conductor, but the local Inn of soliciting staff, worried about their own business and that the driver robbed deceived me.
Wu Qin balcony fall Hongcun South Lake, facing the slender pier, is a very good observation and the place to stay. Boss surnamed Kuo, 40 years old, is a warm and talkative, so business is quite good, I went to these two days, every day are basically sold out; the same time, not good conversation boss cooked cooking. I live on the first floor double room with bathroom, each 30 yuan, Wu Qin floor has a disadvantage during the day and did not provide hot water, hot water at night and do not have large, I have to open a hot water downstairs, came upstairs on the shouted: "Boss, how hot do not啦!"
Night in the Hongcun a stroll casually stroll the streets of the students come and go. A sandbar outside the village stream, the bonfire raging, a group of students are engaged in evening. South Lake bars, light reflection on the water, quite a bit Qinhuai night. Arch of the trestle, sat a lonely person, smoking cigarettes, drinking beer, and is pretty comfortable, so I envy.
The next day, get up early on, and quickly went straight to the village in the months marsh. On Marsh's dawn, quiet laid-back, no tourists, only a few head ass like me, there are village women washing clothes and swimming ducks, and some yellowing of the black tiles and white walls is extremely clear reflection in mirror-like surface of the water on-screen voice of the United States have people resting! We quietly watch with, take pictures with, turn around again and again turn on marsh. Went to South Lake, the rising sun light, a faint mist on the water transpiration forward, as if falling of the veil women days, even the two squirrels were then hobbled down to look at scenery.
6:40, the conductor went to, and I have withdraw troops back to camp, eat breakfast. Wait until about eight o'clock, the parking lot across from South Lake to open to more and more of the buses, droves of tourists flooded the village, I also followed another village to see these ancient dwellings. At this time of the month marsh, densely packed circle to draw the students, as if to a marsh on the placement of a human fence, is another man-made landscape of some. The Chengzhi Hall, South Lake College, and other ancient buildings, the listening tour of the talks, the seriously elegant three carved art, appreciate the rich culture of Huizhou.
Hongcun swim a few laps, I feel that the walk elsewhere, they stepped out of the village, catch a ride to town, but also transfers to the Xidi 2 yuan. Tickets and Hongcun Xidi, like all 55 yuan, Guia, I am in no hurry to village, first walk along the road of villages bar. The other side of the road there are several hills package, which is under construction at the top of a hill pavilion, I climbed through the Taolin that pavilion Department, condescending, Xidi structured gray tiles and white walls of ancient buildings, in my front at a glance, once again made me feel a distance from a high of Huizhou Ancient Village look more beautiful.
Down the hill, still moving forward along the road, everywhere access to Xidi entrance, of course, stuck to each entrance "into scenic spot to purchase" notices. And I found one or two on the road wearing a brown suit, or riding a motorcycle back and forth on the highway patrol, or parking guard looked to me, all these are the ticket Xidi the flow of posts. This I've咱, I have come to Murao Department, to be those who can not see Anshao before stepping leisurely Duo with the village, but also provinces where 55 yuan.
From Xidi out is noon, intended to Zuoju Hui county, did not expect such a quick half an hour, not even a FIT but to myself chartered, 10 per hour. In the town looking for a place to eat, but still found a home Shaxian eateries, and did not expect Huizhou far from home, but also delicious to eat familiar with hometown dishes. Chat with the owner, few people know that they really are from Shaxian, but also listen to them, said yesterday there is a Xiamen eaten rice in this, I can not help but regret not experiencing some of the villagers.
After eating, but also Zuoju Hui Hongcun, wanted to walk to the Ta Chuan. Go for a while, the sun quite drying, but the dust on the road are also great, Ta Chuan was mainly the United States in autumn, this season does not think of forget. On the small road back to the village, visiting another stroll, finally it is nowhere to stroll, simply brew a cup of coffee, went to Inn on the second floor balcony, hobble around his legs reading, watching South Lake to see pier, watching people coming and going, really cozy ah!
After dinner, nearly 7 o'clock, but found that lights on the other side of that ticket is still, conductor still working. A question only that, today is the weekend, they have to work until about eight o'clock, and said that in last year's Golden Week, the county sent a number of staff to Hongcun, Xidi villages such as ticketing and patrols in each village junctions, as well as many of the village there are people crossing guard. Each catch a fare evasion is 55 yuan, enough to pay for their overtime a day, so surely this year's 51 where same is true of general mobilization, donkeys who want to free riders in the Gold weeks are more difficult. Is being chatted days, come in a pair of students, though they do not buy a ticket, but has been locked in, and had to go to replacement ticket. Bought a ticket to see, even their names are written on the student tickets above, it appears that tomorrow, Saturday will be resolutely defending the village of.
April 17, Saturday, go home the day after another donkey-line to an end. The donkey-line Huizhou, in fact, just take a little bit of Huizhou where the planned Huizhou Huangshan, and many sites failed to go into, and some regret, but more is a beautiful ancient Huizhou reluctantly. Back to Xiamen, a sudden exposure to speeding traffic and the hustle and bustle of the crowds being suddenly surprised to find herself some can not adapt to, alas, Huizhou countryside's share of quiet, leisure, relaxation and has been in the dream of being indifferent.
zmuer@sina.com
2004/05/07
Author: zmuer
