Lugu Lake in love with the song
Lugu Lake is located in northern Yunnan and western Sichuan at the junction, about 50 square kilometers of water. The west side of the lake, in Yunnan Province, Lijiang is a city of Ning Langxian Yongning Township, from the famous ancient town of Lijiang Naxi more than 200 kilometers. Looking east across Lake is the boundary of Sichuan Province.
Not into Yunnan, then smell the lake as early as daimyo. Not only because a total of quiet landscape assessment, but also a result of distant spread, "Mosuo style." Where the Moso tribe living in the total population of about 3-5 million so far for men to marry and women do not marry, as long as the affective-phase expectations, they are free to "walking marriage." The supreme right of each family by a woman in charge of, their children are born by the woman's family, co-dependency and never the mother's side of life. China, perhaps the world is still intact to preserve and maintain the matrilineal clan system, the last large-scale nation, it is also known as "Oriental Women's Country" or "mysterious daughter of country." Who started singing, the latter married the Swedish diplomats; the first to write "out of her country", after writing "walked back to her country" Namu Yang two cars that go out from there. Therefore, tourists to Lijiang, probably never been to the lake rarely.
I fly Beibei September 18 in Kunming, the next day fly Shangri-La (Zhongdian), a taste of the Meili Snow Mountain at sunset, Mingyong of Gui Qi, Songzanlinsi spectacular, is a delicate and pretty lake, after all, 22 by Lijiang start, drove more than five hours in the afternoon at about 4 am to reach the lake.
Lugu Lake is not entered, the driver Liu 10000 teacher should first call we received a "viewing platform" place. This is a broad vision of the ridge, one side of stone balustrades edge beams, built lean on a railing under the balcony, a panoramic view of clear waters, such as jasper, and that is the Lugu Lake. From afar, the contours of the lake like a horseshoe-shaped lake on the eastern side there is a peninsula, the lush green trees of the mountain ridge to the lake stretches. The west side of the lake is a residential, Mulou Qingwa patchwork along the lake, which is the famous village of Moso village fell into the sea. North of the lake stands a Castle Peak, Moso tribe known as the goddess Gorm mountain, because it is tantamount to a crouched lion, also known as Lion Rock. Foot of the mountain there is a small peninsula, which is a result of Mosuo Toshio Tashi peninsula, known for Rigby had. In the central lake is also dotted with two clusters and green, it is a bigger than the other two lake islands, the larger than the island called the Village Huapi, small is called Snake Island, visitors come to Lugu Lake, most will take its own unique The Zhu Caochuan landing Ferris.
Fell into the water village is where the vast majority of visitors come, lively but noisy, two rowing boats are generally 5-6 with the ride (50 yuan per person). Because we want to quietly enjoy the lakes and mountains do not want to fight groups, so the driver pulled the master brings us fell into the water and between the small fishing Rigby Pa. Here is not like falling into the water, where, as famous grid, few tourists, cruise ships are free to charter, although the price of slightly more expensive (the two of us 200 yuan), but have a rare quiet. Did not think it was here, we met for our boating Ram and the small group of Moso women Alayouzuo children, the first time I heard that they are authentic Mosuo sing songs, listen to them personally about the Moso ethnic customs and culture, and the evening is also affected by Ram's invitation to her house guest, unconsciously seems to have been touched by many things, so that night also live in a small fishing Pa's odd to Villa.
Ram is no longer very young, probably more than 30 years old, her age and similar Alayouzuo. We saw her, she was on a small white flowers in Red at the end of the long-sleeved Usugi, the next floor-length dress with a white drag, wearing a unique Moso girl's head crown: a red flower to decorate the crown slanting side, a bit like a Han Duo Ma bun; a man to knit a long braids hanging in the crown, the forehead was hanging with a white pearl Gualian, like the bright crescent. Although not much longer beautiful, but so're dressed up, but its own kind of pretty.
Ram had no schooling, but very talkative. On the boat to get to us and tell Zhu Caochuan legends. Moso tribe's unique Zhu Caochuan only a big wood, sharpened at both ends, the middle groove dug up for people to ride and wanted to be with the North American Eskimo canoe similar. According to legend, long time ago, the lake is one of the ranch, there's poor hungry shepherd grazing found an unnamed big fish plugged a huge hole, could not move, they cut off a fish, eat fire. Who would have thought the next day, that the fish grow a new wound on the meat, then cut meat boxes a day shepherd boy, even grow tall and Zhuang. Toast master this matter was discovered and forced him to tell what was going on, greedy toast God wanted this fish for themselves, and send people to pull, but how are pulled intact. Last toast bearing the first nine A Brighter Summer Day, a big fish was forcibly pulled out of the hole. Who could know that the fish plugged in, this is a huge tunnel, one was pulled out, the raging flood begins with caves emitting an instant they flooded pastures, land and villages, the lake was formed. Was only one of the Mosuo girls are pigs Jizhongshengzhi, jumped into a wooden pig trough, the waves Piaodang, to be survived, and this is the female ancestor Mosuo people; and Natiao a life-saving grace of the Pig tank ship, also has been in use since Mosuo people. After listening to her talk, we bow our heads to see ship fleet is not a big carvings, but by several pieces of wood put together. Ram told us that, now can be used to dig a large carved wooden boat has been very small, coupled with the logging ban the mountains, so had to fight with the board system, but the ship are still followed the previous pattern. Whenever a time when Ram speak, even if we speak the words of Alayouzuo would always stop and Hua Tou, quietly listening, plug 12 when the need arises. Such a small detail, probably Mosuo people's unique response to bar female authority.
Boat gently across the lake, the lake is clear, in Qian Jin place where we can clearly see the long, dazzling plants out from the bottom of the lake, with water waves "of around streams." Suddenly recalled that the provisional board before heard someone say that Ram really knows how to sing, so I have encouraged her to Beibei 1. Ram day, although some cold, but not too much put off, saying: "Then I would sing the song" a thousand miles fragrant flowers, "it." Referring to what will be opening up singing voice, sang out:
"Algal blooms open on the lake, the wind blowing and incense. My thoughts in the distance, in the distance. Forget that night, singing and dancing campfire, his eyes said that the number of words Woliang deeply attached to each long affection. Elder brother, mada microphones, Elder brother , mada microphone. I care Shaoge Xin Feng ER, Trinidad fragrant flowers. Sange brilliant Lugu Lake, Elder brother yo, it was a good spring, Mada microphone. Elder brother yo, mada microphones, Elder brother yo, mada microphones I care Shaoge Xin Feng ER, Trinidad fragrant flowers. Sange brilliant Lugu Lake, Elder brother yo, it was a good spring, Mada microphone. It is a good spring, Elder brother yo. "
Song of the "mada microphone," translated into Chinese, is "I love you" mean. Hear out, Lahm no formal vocal training, but the throat sound is very bright. Coupled with those around us to sing something out that his heart really can be described as the emotions of mildly tangled. A song fine, I sound curl, accompanied by slight water waves, waves on the lake a long time. Sing to the emotional Department, she stopped the paddle is zoned light, gazing at the distant hills, his face flush thrown up in the sunset of the ramp-hui, as if an ancient meditate Ladies. We are all singing in the enchanted. Bebe said: "very good hearing, I'm so touched, tears must flow." Upon saying this or not hold back, tears streaming down cheeks are really down. I quickly handed him paper towels, turned out it is more wiping the more busy I reach for DV, the photo of this scene down.
Bebe's tears may make you feel closer to the soul, in our inquiry, the Ram generously from Moso tribe to go about marriage customs and customs, and according to her statement that it is generally not to make it hide, in . Mosuo people take the original marriage, not as outsiders believe that as "free." First of all, take the initiative marriage party is limited to men, meaning that only the man to the woman's marriage to go home, Moso girl would never go to the bridegroom's family marriage, but also very few people away from their mother at home, and men from group家庭. This is because both men and women, Mosuo people are vested in their own mother's life-long family, even take the marriage and have children, men are only in their own family to live and therefore can not, nor shall be like other people to do as his father responsibilities. Child support, separate from the mother side of family commitments, in addition to the child's mother, it will also be basking together to take care of their oldest maternal aunt uncle. If detached from the mother at home, alone can not bear the labor and the dual task of raising children. Second, due to the unique social system, men and women walking Moso marriage, will not involve any material interest, simply because both men and women born true inner feelings of mutual good will, so although not bound by marriage, but in fact the relationship is relatively stable, mostly single-mindedness is by no means outsiders thought, but play fast and loose. Thirdly, according to the custom of Mosuo people take the marriage of the parties as long as each other, although be free to agree, but there is time to meet the strict limits, the man can only come when beating in the darkness, before dawn to leave. Because there is always quiet when beating in the darkness to "explore" the come, so only the "Moso (groping)" for the family name (in fact the case, wait for verification). Wait until both sides have children, the relationship between relatively fixed, the man would get the public recognition of women at home, though not be as like the previous lay-people, but still have to leave after dawn, the two sides have never had a day of the meet.
Heard here, and I can not help but relative, as the hiss Babe sigh. Qingshen Yi concentration of men and women in love, there would always meet hate short Yikeqianjin sense, this is only human, so the ancients that is "one-day Si Jun 12 o'clock" of the language. "1:00" is the ancient one hour, equivalent to the current two hours, that is, 24 hours a day miss the ever-present. Is also not surprising that modern men and women in general, Embrace in love when He wished from the day to night, from night to the next, and looks Sishou never part. The Moso tribe of men and women in love, but always when the moon rises in order to meet, but also always in the sun does not rise when the forced separation. This is somewhat unreasonable, even cruel. Because the hearts of love and miss is not going to abate as the sun rises and the Oh! From this, we seem to better understand the Ram to sing the kind of look, "I miss in the distance, far away", it should be is her lover's true feelings Qing Shu, and perhaps because of the custom dictates, although there is no sense of their own , but it is hidden bitterness from the bottom of my heart. Then back to Lijiang, we have one called "The Merry daughter of country" on the CD to hear another love song in the first Moso "Flower House Love Song," seems to be more explicitly to sing the Moso girl's heart and unhappy love:
"Elder brother yo, yo Elder brother, the moon only to the Western Hills head, Why should you be walked Huang Huang. Elder brother yo, yo Elder brother, the moon only to the Western Hills head, Why should you be walked Huang Huang. Fireplace is so warm, MA up microphone; I was so gentle, Mada microphone. dead vast hard to love, love in respect to the permanent. Elder brother, Elder brother, you leave her in China to go into exile and leave the A-Mei's full of worries, Mada microphone. "
Holds many lessons for the city, has a lot of temptation, love between men and women complain concubine, often sensual pleasures and material gathered was difficult to separate, presenting a kind of strange to bizarre. However, in the Lugu Lake River, where the Mosuo people, but only knew that because of love born of love, and due to fall in love while others have combined it like Taoyuan in Wonderland-like pure, is nothing more than the urban one's heart and soul of washing Stick to drink. Although there is no form of marriage, but I am afraid of marriage than many solemn ceremonies to be much more pure and holy, would surely be much more long-term. Just that, Mosuo how men and women selected their own loved one do? Love at first sight would always be met, but not impossible, intersection of time and there are always limited, how can we understand a person's heart, not just looks it? "We will sing ah, by singing in antiphonal style will know each other's character had." For our doubts, Philipp Lahm and Elayouzuo almost unanimous reply. Earlier we know that many people are good at singing, such as Tibetan, Uygur, Mongolian, Korean, Yi, Gaoshan, etc., do not know how old Moso tribe also sing and love to sing nation. In fact, the two cars Namu Yang Is not relying on the original song out of the Lugu Lake to do! Is also strange to say, all of which are singing the national minorities, it seems that we've long ago forgotten song Han how to sing. Perhaps the simplicity of the soul is the source of songs, and we, were blocked certain things spring bar. Upon saying this, Philipp Lahm and Alayouzuo on the right sang for us, "Lugu Lake Love Song":
"Small-Mei, small-Mei, The Hills to meet impermeable. Strangers first meet, I'm afraid the black crane pig laugh. A-Mei, A-Mei, mada microphones, mada microphones, Mada microphone.
Small Elder brother, small Elder brother, affinity for the lazy dog. River water is water, cold water slowly making tea hot. Elder brother, Elder brother, mada microphones, mada microphones, Mada microphone.
Love sister love sister, you have the most beautiful mountains and micrantha. You like the moon in the sky photos, I am a star tight hand in hand. Chang Hui-mei, Chang Hui-mei, mada microphones, mada microphones, Mada microphone.
Love his brother, love his brother, the public is more expensive than gold. As long as affective as deep as the sea, will be paired Huang Ya right. Elder brother, Elder brother, mada microphones, mada microphones, Mada microphone. "
This time, singing, less showtime lingering haiku side, but have become more high-pitched brighter, but the same Qingshen Yi long aftertaste is a long time. Boat to the lake's largest island, islets, probably because songs occupy one's mind's sake, we do not seem too much viewing interest, only to find nothing but more trees temples, little strange. In the back of the boat, Ram told us: "I do not know how, I feel, and you are hit it off, do not go at night, and come to my house guest it." Although the residential visit, we arrived at a place most want to participate in tourism content, because they can learn more about customs, but that is only a man, hearing this, I have not how visibly pleased, Babe Daoshi immediately excited, immediately followed suit, said: "Well! Well! I would have to cook I cook with you Bar! "That look, like a fear of people abandoned the accord, no longer shelter their little girl. We have planned to overnight Rigby Island, a taste of the famous bar where the style may be afraid that I have objections, they turned to me said: "The constitution constitution, and we go, okay?" Soft words are filled with softly is looking forward to. What can I say? Moreover, it would have been a deliberately read.
Ram home is a spacious two-story wooden structure, small building, down a total of 10 rooms. Mosuo people's houses mostly used after peeling logs for the walls, cut down on the card at both ends of mouth wedge formed roof is to use wood bedding, gray tiles or stones on the pressure, the whole building without an iron nail, known as the Mu Lengfang. Upstairs room, is to prepare greenhouse Moso girls, each adult female has its own one, there are beds inside the fireplace, etc., for them to receive their walking marriage object - "Assia." There is also a small building in front of the big courtyard, which is a typical architectural style of the Mosuo people. When we settled accommodation to ram home, she was grandmother's house waiting for us. The so-called "grandmother's house", is in charge of family affairs Mosuo family lived in older women, are generally independent of the small building, the self-contained rooms. In addition to house, "grandmother" of the wooden bed to sleep, there are big fireplace, a long seat stool, table and cooking utensils readily available, is actually the whole family sitting around the dining and gathering procedure lies. Ram family, "grandmother bed" Some people like the south of the carved wooden bed, and trunked fused ring of wooden kitchen lockers, new paint brush Tung Cheng Huang shiny. Beibei a see extremely like it, begged her to come pictures of the bed, I can not help but came up along for the ride. I saw a bed covered with a brand new bedding, but we have not got older "grandmother." Ram told us that her mother had passed away, she was the oldest house, the next four sisters, two brothers, according to the custom of Mosuo people, and now taken over by her family's affairs, which is a de facto "grandmother" a. Only because of age yet to come, can not live in this house, still living in their own "greenhouse." We suspect, Moso people's grandmothers house is a family affair, the disposal of the central, natural inconvenient hospitality to outsiders, but Ram was still young, but also host their own Assia, so inconvenient to live here bar.
We gossip side of the busy side of rice. Ram and her sister were packed with early morning salvaged from the lake in the basin of fresh crucian carp, it is necessary accompanied by potatoes, to give us the classic carp Mosuo people potato soup. She let Babe helped cut potato skin, in addition to both inside and outside with some on the soup, but also the other an edible vegetable oil fried potato silk. May be because the tool is not without extra trouble, Bebe cut potatoes on the left with little Qingpi, was known as the Leopard, I laugh potatoes. However, Qieqi potato silk, the Babe was Daogong skilled, fast and small, won unanimous praise from everyone. Coupled with a plate of Fried meta cabbage (the South known as the bud dishes), fire-Yong just breaking off a few years now baked under the old corn, plus from the point of singularity to Villa a lake-specific fat fat pork, table delicious meals quickly complete assail the nostrils of the.
Prepare a broth of when taking advantage of crucian carp, the Ram out their own dress another set of Moso girl, saying that the guy is good looking in this Beibei, and wear some more beautiful, and insisted Beibei try. The Beibei it has long been looking at other people's bright-colored clothes envious mind itch, so they do not Tuirang, flew to the courtyards of the shadows dressed up. Bebe dress neat to go back to when the lamp house, everyone shines, we saw the upper body was dressed in yellow at the end of white flowers of the gown, the next book is mopping the floor Baiqun, Moso girl wearing a garland, silk flower pink flower inserted in the hair side, wavefront flow, smiles blossoming, Huo Tuotuo a Mosuo beauty. This is clothing itself, the Babe would not be willing easy to take off, so wear eating. During the meeting not see Ram's brother, his sister stayed with us only a few meals. According to Ram, said his brother had his hunger, and can not wait now to do with relatives and friends have been eaten. We are also hungry, no time to reflect on if this is logical, but busy Xiecai entrance. This is a rich meal while a lot of money, but the material fresh, practices a unique thing that strikes lingering fragrance mouthful. Completion of the rice wine, it seems Mosuo people habits. Ram specially invited two male neighbors urge somebody to drink, attached three cups of brewed Mosuo people's Sullivan Mary shochu Xia Du, there seems to heat up shares Chung. At this point one of the small group of young people sang the Mosuo "Zhu Jiuge":
"Lake Qingqing, bonfire red, red bonfire. Zuri ma alcohol concentration affective, emotional Nong, Mada microphone. I would advise guests a glass of wine Yeah, the number of Huaer in the wine, in the wine. Aha bar啦Mada Mi , Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada Mia, Mia Aha bar啦mada.
Affinity for a thousand miles, I am pleased reunite, Happy Encounter. Earth there are many relatives and friends, there are relatives and friends, Mada microphone. Chuan Bei Bei Mo with each other to stop ah, not the old Castle Peak Flows, Flows. Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada Mia, Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada Mia, Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada Mia , Aha bar啦mada microphones, Aha bar啦mada Mia, Mia Aha bar啦mada. "
The sound of our applause, he also sang a song called "phase Siming Moonlight," a love song:
"Moonlight following slowly, leisurely breeze cool the situation. Wolia moonlit night yo obsession in Japan, not opening also said to make gentle hearts. Mada Mia, mada microphones, mada Mia, mada microphones, Mada microphones, also said that do not open the hearts of gentle, Mada microphone.
Moonlight following slowly, soulmate come to Tianjin Tou. With such a moon night yo I hope deeply attached to each one a long time. Mia mada, mada microphones, Mia mada, mada microphones, Mada microphone. I hope deeply attached to each one a long time and I hope deeply attached to each one a long time, Ah niu-niu. "
Mosuo people to drink after a meal without the dishes, is what we call the dry drunk. It seems the next song was their best food and wine, they drink a glass of Chang Ba. Some of us may not stand, that's certainly a wonderful song, but the stomach is really too much, so hurry to find when the inter-goodbye. Mosuo people Daoye Hao is not strong to stay, unlike our wine from the Big Dipper and often difficult one. Ram then left the mailing address, each other a treasure, through the plateau in recent days that the bright moonlight, like the marriage of the Mosuo people do go to "explore" the strange land back to Villa.
The following morning, because the lake thinking of watching the sunrise was barely dawn, and we went on board the small fishing dam pier yesterday. At this time the East just shows some white, revealing streaks of bright clouds horizon, reflected on the mountain shadow stretching far away, but also sprinkled on the smooth as a mirror on the lake. Lake depths, about what eh is the Jiang Sheng, swing through the water vapor gas is far came, it was an early riser Mosuo people in debt under the nets last night. Front of you is quietly Zhu Caochuan ships parked at the shore, rowing the pulp arbitrarily thrown aside. The kind of beautiful, quiet, pure, agreeable, as if from us beyond the flesh of another world. Yes ah, compared to today's urbanites, Mosuo people really like living in another world, a world of thousands of years has not changed. With the tourists like us are like a river carp-like Da Fun to come, as come by us Xieguo inevitably impact of commercialization can be sure that Mosuo people's social Sooner or later, inevitable will follow the occurrence of certain fundamental changes, but we do not know that for them, what is the hi or the worry, as we are to evolve with their own lives, but also often do not understand, or the worry of the hi the same. Therefore, if you want to hear authentic Mosuo love songs, like a taste of the real Mosuo style, it would always come to Lugu Lake, maybe do not know what day the lake will be like that we live in any one town, as are familiar with but there is no special features.
8:30, we bid farewell to the lake by car. Drivers know that we fell in love with Master Liu Mosuo love songs, deliberately chose a "Farewell Song" playing in the car:
"My friends, friends, you do not go, do not go. Lushui pull clothing, Castle Peak bow. Luguhu everywhere in your stay, Lugu Lake, everywhere your stay, Mada microphone.
Friends, friends, you slowly, slowly. The road ahead is long, but time has passed, do not forget the time in the Lugu Lake, do not forget the time in the Lugu Lake, do not forget the time in the Lugu Lake, mada microphones, Mada microphone. "
Melodious melodies, the beautiful Lugu Lake, farther and farther away from us ... ...