In fact, if not written down, I will never forget these days in the northwest see, smell and feel. However, of one's own cherished things will become wary, so there will be a this travels, but also want to use this as a sum of information, leaving the future think of friends there.
3:20 pm on April 26, Three of us carrying a thick winter clothing, packages of Ti Zhuotai eating, good-bye to drizzle in Shanghai, Lanzhou, T116 embarked on a second train Quwang. While waiting for us will be a long 27 hours of hard seat, but can still overshadowed by the excitement of the hearts of all. This is also one of the reasons I love traveling, waiting for you is that strange place, strange people, exotic scenery ... ..., this vision and excitement can make you a temporary lack of life from the flat, the mind may be a blank, but happy was intense. Want to go to the Northwest Napian brown land, is one of my dreams, let alone in Qinghai and Gansu is the father went no where.
The next morning, after dawn, that is, imagine the unique scenery of the north-west. Bald yellow hill one after another, adobe houses, pile of rice straw. In short, like topographic maps, the impression of being - the northwest is brown. This view looking a long time, you will find eyes, throat dry, and occasionally visible in the river is also a kind of Xixi strands, yellow, such as mud, very thick, and feeling flow from such hardship. However, each time to see this scenery, my mind is the practical, substantial, as if time had over their own true self. No city in the colorful product brings me the impetuous and vanity, nor the kind of mind when dealing with people hanging feeling. While this would not thinking about the meaning of life, nature's great, but it seemed to find their own roots. Write here, short tears, really, I only like their own at this time.
In the evening, about 7 o'clock, days gradually become sunny, picturesque scenery. Blue sky, deep Rose-colored sunset, yellowish brown hills, golden rape, white Begonia, lavender parasol. Described the scenery of the Northwest is very simple, because his America is a strong color contrast, as long as the objective set out the can to give people an imaginary space. Enjoy the scenery of the Northwest is also very easy, you can what the mind does not want to just experience the visual experience, unlike the south of the garden to enjoy, is so delicate, they want you carrying his thin Zamo a hammer.
Lanzhou's first intimate contact
Finally arrived at 8:00 the evening of 27 in Lanzhou, feeling where population density is larger than in Shanghai. Settled after they went straight to the conductor, "Flying Swallow" described in a street snack. In the meal of roast lamb, fried noodles Tintin later, another accidental discovery of a fresh snack - custard worse. Waterlogging bad, milk, eggs, cooked together, then add peanuts, sesame seeds, raisins, taste strange, but also very delicious.
April 28 7:30 am, boarded the Lanzhou - Xiahe of Iveco. Very interesting, dressed in Mongolian robes and holding a blue-year Zhu grandmother wearing a white hat out the window small group Hui, Mongolian girl in a black scarf, tape recorders stood Mongol, Qinghai-Tibet Plateau songs,
A strong exotic. Compartment there are still a lovely little boy, I have come up with a lollipop, and he built a little friendship, and constantly let him help me change songs.
Four and a half hours later, the car arrived in Xiahe - a north-west of the small county soil soil. A small town in almost all Tibetans, many of them could not pull Leng Lama Temple - a short-inch head, some hair, dark skin is shiny, deep purple robes, half arm directly exposed. I think this is all truly beautiful. There are a variety of colorful dressed in Tibetan clothing men and women, laid-back of the shuttle in the town. As fast as arranged accommodation (good friend Guest House), packets of a small van, rushed to the legendary Sangkecaoyuan.
After not pull Leng Temple bumps along the way, stretches of snow-capped mountains, vast grasslands seems to suddenly leap into the eyes. Siguniangshan seen, probably because of the proximity of it, feel majestic, towering, but only those four snow-capped mountains. Distant and incessant snow-capped mountains here, feel more calm and natural. Pasture before the fall of snow-capped mountains gives the feeling, the long yellow, and the wind went to the one-sided, otherwise it gives the feeling that a bit desolate, but to see walking in the pasture a few of wearing a beige windbreaker lattice, the first wearing a cap of the high foreign old man, the novel sense of the manor farm out again, so he played a kind of medieval romance. Meadows is full of black yak, motionless, far looked like a block of rock. Occasionally a small yak-run around spreading the Fun and was surprised to be male counterparts as the Tibetan Mastiff. Pasture livestock on the various colors are: snow-capped mountains and the river the color of grass are coordinated. Black and dark brown yak horn has a beautiful white goat, black, white, built in robust red horse posture. Higher than the distribution of the more than a dozen pastoralists, and everyone is Pan raises Tibetan mastiff, beautiful and fierce.
Southern Pakistani city has a lovely dog, fine men and women elegant contrived, and in the grasslands in Gannan has the world's most vicious dog, full of wild Kham guy, healthy one and gentle woman.
Finally came to the driver for our choice of herdsmen Kong Dezhong Mrs Chow House (Moraceae Township, Xiahe County, Gansu Province Manma five teams). There are seven people in this house: old couple, the eldest son and daughter-, two sons and two grandchildren. However, we only saw five. On a good price, we each picked a horse, by two sons and grandson holding into grassland. They do not know Chinese, could not share with us, but they have a discerning eye and sincere and shy smile. Back to the CHOW home, we entered the room on the on the kang. The room has a cupboard, neatly stocked with bowls, cups and butter lamps and so on, the walls adorned with portraits of Chairman Mao, the house Health and the stove, to keep the inside daughter-added dried cow dung. Then, for our side of the milk, butter, sugar and their own fermented yak yogurt, wash hands after we have done some tsampa. Natural flavor will not be used, but more novelty bar, feel not bad. Would like to ease in the grasslands were many nights and would like to experience the grasslands at dawn, to taste the life of herdsmen, so made such a request. One male body is not comfortable, and the other forced to accompany him back. I am quite pleased that such an arrangement, although the temperature at night and worry about security, but this time this scenery, I aspire to be alone.
They are gone, feel more free. Comte thought that had gone in, no one could and talked with me, but that wearing a cap of the head of the household and I was chatting with the Chinese initiative up. He had been a cadre liberated, so to speak Chinese, "Gang of Four" made a mistake, but also into the civilian population. He always said that here, backward, uneducated people here, it is not unreasonable. I do not know how to answer, said: highly educated people in town, but there are even more unreasonable. He added: At present, many foreign companies to open to China, so good for us. I smiled and said nothing. But he was very intelligent, she quickly adds: This is just my personal opinion. Sometimes say something and not understand it twice, I would pretend to understand, but the general could be seen through him so that she will continue to explain or take in-kind to show me, know that I really understood what he meant. Dinner is a patch soup, and noodles film is his son a month after the hand-thrown into the pot and kick out, and he also makes daughter-in-the yak meat sliced into my bowl, and he asked me, if not to eat must not be used to manage. Is actually very good to eat, though a bit fishy smell, but I am this person is so, the taste of food I feel a great impact on subjective feelings. After dinner, days gradually dim down, then had nine more, can only see a blur of faint red horizon.
In the absence of electricity, the room is only lit a kerosene lamp trembling. I feel very good because it is the first time feel the kind of ethos. Many people think of a lot of things, you can also send text messages and made friends. However, these pastoralists, I can not imagine, after dark, sitting on the kang, this big shiny bean, they are thinking. You can experience the natural scenery, can feel the customs, but, there are things that I can never understand.
Zhou Tai is very careful and know that I am worried about being caught puppy hand, out of alcohol and cotton for me, disinfection, probably listening to Li Tian said that my stomach is not good, let me also take medicine to eat. Kong Dezhong brought me clothes and food, I put chocolate, cucumber gave them. And the cut of a Fuji brought from Shanghai. Apple is very good showing, crispy and sweet. The dim lighting that we can eat an apple, this situation reminds me of the movie "Shangganling."
The evening, they will give me and the hole heated kang guide. In fact, I was very sorry, because too much sleep weeks later did I learn of the house. The first sleep heated kang, just up feeling very comfortable, but can not stand the night brings me baked, so a total of slept a few hours at night had to face non-stop fountain.
6:00 am, opened his eyes back to see Mrs Chow took a bunch of bushes where the stove ignited, and then into the courtyard. I suddenly remembered that he introduced to me yesterday: In the morning pinch a tsampa, lit into the village on the wood yard, in order for their dead relatives Buzhi Yu hunger. But also ignited a hay around the yard a turn for the ward off evil. This is a regular procedure every morning. Yard from the window looking at all these weeks is too done, I jump got out of bed. Open the wooden door, a surge of cold fresh air blowing from.
This time, there was also overcast days, Mrs Chow said that today was cloudy, I feel some regret. Weeks is probably too much to see out, and put forward on behalf of my family to see nearby herders. Side to side to go on the feeling of days gradually pale, back again, the distant snow-capped mountains has been sprinkled with the streaks of golden sunlight, and then go back to when the days have been completely clear up the. Moving forward, to see a long 10 meters of weaving machines, a middle-aged and an elderly Tibetan women, where hunched, holding shuttle, devoting pushing back and forth. Under the sun, this work is really beautiful gesture. Elderly Tibetan women looked so much alike, "Red River Valley" in that. I bring good luck to him with a smile: sha & nbspda. Incidentally, a note of a few other Tibetan: Hello - qiao & nbspdai & nbspmao Goodbye - dai & nbspmao & nbspxi you are very handsome - qiao & nbspyi & nbspye & nbspge.
Afternoon we visited the temple not pull Leng. With regard to the temple, I do not know, not interested, but felt that the building was very beautiful here. The so-called outsiders watch the fun, professional and more subtle, I would just take a look at colors and patterns. Butter done pretty, but the portrait that some ferocious, but the smell is not a good smell. Many small lama around a vat Sheng Fan, I have looked at the bucket, like a very thick add a bit of ham inside Cai Yu Ding. Lama kept in a small pick inside the meat, They would also say something in Chinese.
Finally Evans into one of the largest hospital. Lobby about 500,600 square meters, the top high dimly lit. Of all ages, the same dress of the monks sitting in his seat on the bow diligent chanting, not hard to whisper. Low throughout the lobby filled with the "buzzing" sound, there is a depressing atmosphere. Listen to tour guides say that they need to read for 13 years, came out the equivalent of Ph.D. examinations. Look at who are hard chanting monks, my heart hair tight for the first time I felt that people were actually differences in the way of life so great. The most valuable in life for 13 years, it is difficult to imagine that anyone so spent. However, compared to empty the city, and could not find the meaning of life of people in a remote quiet of a small town obsessed with their own beliefs, they also may not be that bad.
That night, when we eat in a small restaurant, outside it began to rain turned into hail, with broad bean size, and under very rapid. Distant mountains, a short while became a vast expanse of whiteness of one. I also feel a bit of hail deliberately went out to fight the feeling of his body - a bit sore, a little itchy, but I was actually a bit thus elatedly, and I knew that this trip has a little integrity.