That was my heart a shrine, when I was breathing heavily through the marsh to its quiet sacred body in front of my mind stagnate, my blood may also wish to detention, I feel that life To be meaningful, perhaps of their own do it the Peak 1 Blackstone, overtaken by one of its mountain Wang water, rendering them visually in the wind for many years with comfort, overtaken by the snow eternal shine its dignity.
May 5, 2001, Qinghai fruit Leshan feet at the end of my companions stand marshes, Kamiyama edge, holy lakes shore, I feel pride and regret are so strong. I honor because this piece of the original landscape, I have come to worship before, perhaps I will be supreme glory of the ever care; I regret because I am unable to get rid of the beam on earth tired, I can not enjoy put it's arms. I only see it in the veil, then hurriedly left the date could come in the heavens silent.
An overview on the fruit fruit Leshan Leshan, there is a name, called the annual Baoyu is. The latter name, has recently begun to slowly known Road. There were suggestions to pilgrimage (qualifier, in fact, tourism) and are just seen there, a picture, is the snow-capped mountains following a Haizi, so he organized a group of people go to. This person is Neijiang people, Jiao Li Mang. I have a Sim know some of them, so the same go. Lee Mang avid traveler, he designed a good place to go to no one; my good friend, Fu-chi very deep friendship with them, I then have to follow fashion a snowy field.
Leshan is the Bayan Har fruit of the main peak, but the elevation is not high on the more than 5300 meters. However, the scenery here is first rate. Mountain hanging absolutely ferocious, and the surrounding mountains like a smooth buns different styles, such as, turned out to mountain peaks, such as an ax Daoxue pierce straight into the blue sky. This mountain is a masterpiece of glaciers, with hundreds of much of this is really full steam ahead, the mountains dance, Haomiao knows no boundaries. Year-round snow-capped mountains, holy mystery. Even more amazed by the mountains or over the Hai Zi, there are a few hundred. Local people to tell us what the blue, white, red, etc., everything. This area is very primitive, uninhabited swamps scattered across the desolate, magnificent, quiet, and, isolated! This is our favorite place, an ideal outlet to vent aestheticism place.
Fruit Leshan County in Qinghai and Sichuan Aba long-county border where several hundred kilometers radius. In Sichuan, the local people has also been aware of its value. However, they took a very difficult to hear the name, called Stone Mountain. Not the momentum that Haomiao magical feel like a hill east. Developed, it seems not to consider, from the Sichuan Province in the past, no road, get riding, never been, nor know how to walk. From Qinghai in, off-road and after going through the swamps, glaciers, to get to the first Haizi. Haizi from the highway to the first one, also two or three hours walking time.
Two eyes May 1, we start from Chengdu. They actually organized person out of two vehicles, a total of 70 or so teams are not too large, can also be found there for the natural feelings. Play all the way down, the first night only to Malcolm. This is the road course, a lot of attractions, Taopingqiangzhai, miyaluo leaves district is considered great reputation in the whole country can be discharged the individual first and deserved. But most I like or partridge Mountains Pass the passion of dance with the snow-capped mountains. May the Partridge Peak, snow-capped mountains stretch for no end in sight, not even check on the real Christine Leung (in Red Valley, the Yangtze River Yellow River watershed), issued Siguniangshan. The general to the partridge mountain is at about four o'clock in the afternoon, time is indeed timely, sunshine, blue sky, white clouds form a contrast, snow clank shiny, it is easy to stimulate people's sentiments. Some people say that here you can see Siguniangshan, but because the distant clouds shrouded, Trip peaks, but also do not know about is not mysterious.
The roads are good to go, only the peak a little gravel road, the rest is full of cement road, feeling good. However, high mountains and deep valley, the street is a few hundred meters deep cliff, but is pointing at the side of cliffs, it is still a little makes a guilty conscience. Foot of the mountain now is stepping up construction of the tunnel, after a drive of the Peak is not to spend, but for tourists who, perhaps this is a loss, not to board height, how can truly see the scenery.
The next day he departs from the horse Kang Zamtang counties, all along the upper reaches of the Dadu River gorge walk through. This way more depressed, although Enami rolling, everywhere delicate and pretty, but a day will inevitably face the same thing a bit tired. But here I feel the autumn will be absolutely beautiful, and can surpass miyaluo bar. It is in May, while the green everywhere in the mountains, dense jungle, and has had many different colors, and some even pink yellow ribbon was wrapped around the hillside, not knowing the fall, they want what kind of flair. Days when the black is not black, to a lamin sum, it seems not a small scale. It's turning cylinders to be completed, and it will take time, Mani walls stretch for very long. Here are aroused our interest in cultural things, but I am far less interested in nature, so it can not find any adjectives here for good.
Many Tibetans live here, very honest. When we went to, they see us on, focus and pure, especially the child's eyes can really see his soul. There are many curious, there are many shy to cover up the excitement, there is a little look. They wear dirty, dirty faces also. Looked at them, I felt not only honest and human nature has not been eroded, they gave me the deepest impression is the most difficult to capture the kind of expectations. I do not want tourists and then talked about them so that the natural heaven's human nature, I hope we pay more attention to that subtle look of compassion to do this many calls, they need too many things!
The road difficult, mostly dirt and gravel road, it is difficult to go. And there is a positive case of local roads, we have a lot of time wasted.
The Rangtang days have been dark to do, so do not know how the city just to hear Lee Mang said, here is one of the poorest county of Aba.
3 snow dance 3, an early departure to zebra County, Qinghai Province. Slopes on both sides of the trees almost been cut, leaving a whole hillside full of stumps, shocking. The wound was amputated, was the morning sun tan Bai Liang, such as the countless mirrors, silently reflective daylight. Later planting trees, weak and sparsely legislation in the mountains, do not know when we can restore the Sheng Rong.
We quickly drove the car on the hilltop, after a brief stopover speeding down into an open basin. Here, surrounded by mountains, very close, while the scenery beautiful, standing next to me was busy taking pictures of the Fu-chi side shot Edge praise: "It's no way out!" This is a typical Tibetan family pastoral scenery is not entirely outside contamination, the original simplicity of life. The middle of a stream through the plains, the river of blue, and surpass the sky, concentrated Debu like really, soak into the depths. The river gravel exposed in a small Island, white and shiny, so you realize it's cozy. Distant river bend, that is, Tibetan villages, mountains and rule, layer upon layer, patchwork, it is a affinity. Farmland, dressed in national costumes of the old farmer was bending down and dig for, and the child and his father pull cattle farming, in no hurry hurry. They rise from time to time take a look at us and smiled to us there were no surprises and surprising vision, tranquil and quiet, and yesterday lamasery feel completely different. Birds flying over the ground close to the road, stay in the distance, but the moves too fast, no way to capture this rapid light and shadow. Here is the most madding crowd I've ever seen, has nothing to do with the world where, typically do not know the Qin and Han's paradise out there. My good friend Chen has subsequently washed out photos, there is a film that farmers working the fields, that feeling was so dear.
On the map, there's name is on the Zamtang is probably here in.
Beyond that went again into the mountains, here is the heart of Three Rivers of the first protected area. Entering the protected area where there are checkpoints, soldiers on duty. They gave us the car disinfection, so as to avoid the outside of bacteria into the mountains. Lee Mang went to the Dadu River (here is the source of the) side of mouth, but I still feel not enough clean water here, not the mountains, the most common brighter colors. It is already coming out of the site in Qinghai.
Entered among grassland. There is a large-scale roadside Tianzang Tai, towel streamers dense clusters steps spectacular, the wind lifted, the issue Lie Lie voice. Ice-cold stone lying on the one side, then the edge of mounds of colored clothes. Many curious to go see it, and comes back vivid descriptions, speaking also on the slate has been diluted by the bloody rain, speaking there of the intense smell. Some people actually stretched legs in the stone only to put out pictures of modeling, but also a woman! I'm not too interested in the first step to the zebra county. Later, there-depth understanding of the Fu-Chi Guzuogaoshen had said: "We met Tianzang Shi, wow, those eyes, blood red, and cold, very scary, I do not dare with him in the eye." Local residents told us that only conducted a burial this morning. So many people would regret. About Sky burial There are many horizons, here is not 11 to say that without a sense of the scene. Burial of people want to know, here is definitely a good place.
Night, in restaurants and the local police uncle get-together, because visiting burial, thanks to their enthusiasm to help.
4, experiencing extreme hardship.
We are starting at 2 o'clock on, the night coachman, hope for an early to the destination. Last night the police on the advice that we comrades, snow is very large, best to go back, from the Sichuan Aba in the past, security. But we have not heard, and the middle of the night tour.
I forgot to add pants at night, they sat in car door, then wind, and the biting cold wind from the door of the gap filling in, grinning the raging of my flesh. How I long to tremble, while the car lesbian too much, not good plus knitted wool trouser. Drove for a while, have to add water. Outside, a dark, cold pressing, I dare not get off. Under the banner of several men flashlight to look for water, while on the up, straight tremble to say, "full of ice, knocking not open!" Some woman in acute and braved the cold wind off, went to the rear, while up, shiver the banner said, "too cold, and I really facing the bottom half of the exhaust heat and can not front of it, it really cold and uncomfortable."
Dawn of time, we have deep in the Bayan Har, this time, strong winds, snow is also great, but the earth has not yet been completely covered up. To a village, we stopped to relieve themselves, but also ask for directions. Mad turmoil rocking to our underwear and hair, everyone huddled themselves as much as possible. How can relieve themselves could not find shelter from the wind parts, and finally back in a broken Poqiang resolved. There are as many male compatriots in the stool, but also several people. They looked at a few people shivering lips row of squat foot of a wall the word, his face bruised and snow whipped around, the hair winds tear office, before we know who have been hold in anxiously what a miserable, I really do not regret this team photo with the camera down. Asked by people Kongshouerhui, because no one, individual door closed, and the streets of dilapidated houses, feeling like a war ruins.
Our car first, and all the way dash, getting higher and higher above sea level, snow is growing. Little while, white mountains, and the earth were all white, and the roadside there are flocks of sheep and cattle, who are awarded silver makeup, motionless endured a blizzard. In front of the road, winds whipped up a Xuewu, close to the road surface was wire strand shape from the left toward the right, as if going to attack and occupy the hills opposite. This is the meaning of the snow did not stop, as if to defy the madness in general tread on us, we are afraid of! Behind the car did not catch up, we feel more and more wrong, but no one can ask. Where are we, and we ourselves do not know. For a long time, finally found a truck, one asked, quickly arrived on the county. We are in the wind and snow into the rash way, and now know a waste of expression. Enter, they labor in order to il be waiting for us.
The evening, we went to the Aba county, we have finally listened to the advice of police comrades. Peak to see the valley in the Aba county, unique flavor, the sun has Xichen, the valley has been the black to make the horizon, but still find it a pleasure of Xia Yu, distant peaks silence, Xuefeng Here are the stars, like city lights, a river against the white daylight, winding from a distance stretching from town. Poetry, like beauty, is even more rugged among the gentle charm.
4 fruit veil of Leshan
5, depart for a long time from the Aba County. Aba Tibetan houses and other places are different, are used clay paste the wall, the wall decorated with a white-lined, very conspicuous. The morning of the grasslands, mountains clouds Yiyi and villages dotted in the foot of the mountain, farmers in the fields farming, like a poetic picture. The distance, was already showing a hideous monster with a black peaks. Filamentary clouds the sky was passing, like in the flight. County government is not a long time, but also did not give me a impression that here we found a fruit lead us to the Tibetans to do Leshan guide.
Car is almost always running on the Peak, on the one slope, we suddenly cheered up, a sight of the shock. Xuefeng such a huge standing near the edge of the road, like the gods dump earth. Pyramid-like peaks pierce straight into the blue sky, black mountains, white snow, solemn and sacred, Bai Yunfei Du. Presumably this is the fruit of the main peak of Leshan. Staring at her holy body, I felt the desire to want to climb. After a here, but also a long gallop, as if car is running like the Peak, Xuefeng has been with us before the trip. Sky Bai Yunfei Du, there has been spectacular corona, an enormous ring surrounded the sun, like a Hula Hoop. About 14:00 or so, we had down.
Road on the left is the stretching of the marshes, at the end of a snow-capped mountains, the Peak misty, as if being there is snow Man Juan. Wizard tell us off, we need to cross this piece of swamp, go there at the foot of snow-capped mountains, before they can see the capacity of the first Haizi posture. If the wizard is extremely difficult to understand, but we still faintly identified a number of means, "here are savages"! Wizard is a simple Tibetan young man, very sturdy. Soon we were blocked by a rushing river, very wide, not deep, but the bone-chilling waters, river full of rocks. We were stumped, and immediately appear to cross the river wide variety of ways. The easy of course, took off his shoes, tortured, I would fall into this column, but it does not cross the river on foot comfortable, cool not say, and there are mentally prepared, the key is not a flat river, the soles of his feet have been rubbing too uncomfortable, but also at any time be slipped. Is taking the S-line, time-consuming for some time, so sitting on the other side to see a show. The most embarrassing is the DING Ming comrades, but also short and fat, glasses fell to the nose, they could not hand on the look Teng, 2 dead staring at the foot of letting go, half-afraid to step in Norway can be regarded as the most stupid of a foot wading . There are those who think they were better, throwing stones weigh road, dancing in the stone, which is a serious test of the will and the counterweight, because I saw the success of taken the guy a few steps, the neck and a hard, take the initiative to feet sent into the water. The vast majority of last dive is the middle of splash river can be regarded as original aim, but also shoes wet, obviously not as good as I am wise. But this time our guide made a touching move, do not hesitate take off their shoes, feet into the water, big hands waving back to a number of girls back across the river, and even the Fu-Chi are his come back, that guy has the nerve let others back. Wizard back and forth, his legs were red, his face is indifference, let me awe.
Over the river, be considered into the swamp. But now this swamp is not so terrible, and one look like it can help people Xianxia Qu, but the small puddles everywhere, and the grass is a cluster of clusters, and stretching far-flung. I still try to look a solid step on the grass above the cluster in order to impede the event. Now overcast, misty rain blurred the end of the peaks, such as Mongolia a veil, but that mystery. Chen Wen carrying a tripod, He laugh to laugh He followed behind me, and large forces were far we have left behind, and soon not see a shadow. Front of us there are two men and a woman, and we are also pulling away from very far away. This seems not very far away from us eat bitterness, I did not bring water, thirsty too uncomfortable. Chen Wen physical soon a moral one, big mouth breaths, and a one-stop walk. Here there are about more than 4,000 meters above sea level, making such a long journey, action deformation inevitably exaggerated expressions. A glacier in front of us, a very thick ice sheet, suan stretches from the snow-capped mountains stretching from the foot, sorrowful silent, solemn. I was standing on a glacier, the face of snow-capped mountains, feeling excited and forget Kulei, immersed in the magnificent landscape. On the ice and found that a surprising large footprints, at least twice as large than my feet, no toes, but the shape is accurate, deeply printed in hard on the ice. I do not believe some people will deliberately take a model for such a large footprint to go here to build, but how do I jump in the top foot is also not Yin Zi. Is this the guide said Savage Mody? However, such a vast expanse of ice is only this one, there is no Monkey King's jumping ability is difficult to jump out of such a sparse footprints. In short, mystery, and maybe a mountain god at the Funny bar.
Off the ice, but also smooth across a shallow stream, my shoes, or was it finally wet. Chen Wen has already tired Buxing Liao, like an old man like, it was soon distanced me, I admire his stamina a bit, and hungry and thirsty, but still not feel too much. Climbed over a small hill, holy lakes of water jumping into my eyes, in front of three people have been placed in the lake shape, I am excited for Chen Wen shouted to boost his confidence. But even his shadow and I could not find, and he has not answered my strength.
The sky overcast, dark lake, the water ripples micro-exhibition, quiet silent, but you can almost hear it breathing boring. Calm holy lake with its calm attitude of grace for all the internal Haihan intense campaign Haihan all the cold of the snow-capped mountains of the west wind haughty how moved heaven and remain calm silent. The other side is a huge snow-capped mountains, bare and straight up the huge mountain frighten my soul. Snow-capped mountains with its bold arm Yong Zhu holy lakes, though there is still the soul of silence among the exchanges, they ignore Shuaicao westerly, wild cloud sky. Days are overcast, dark clouds gathered low roof, nature is a lonely, desolate, deserted, vast state of taste. What I want is such a feeling, lonely, desolate, deserted, vast and indifferent, I abuzz silent silent only hope in my heart to the so-called vulgar ordinary sense a slight pulse of the earth, I hope that the earth could temporarily accommodate the long-lost soul temporary regression. At this time, before we know pure precious and valuable at this time know true love. I love nature, love of that nature abuzz as the mind. Towel waving streamers fluttering close to the coast, which is the human voice of awe and devotion. I linger in another way flight between the mountains.
First-come, the woman put on her dress so that her boyfriend take pictures here do not feel cold. This Aratani sudden a red beauties, it was stirring hearts and minds of conflict. Chen Wen collapse that will collapse when not to, and this time he is not tired, high and mighty of the frame camera tripod. A long time, look back antecedents, the hills appeared on a lot of shadows, the high and looking like a group of bandits, is our large forces arrived.
We can not stay here too long, they had to go back, unfortunately, are many, because it delves into where to go from here, the magnificent Haizi group will emerge one after another. We have no chance to appreciate, we are just across the veil to see the fruit Leshan fuzzy face, to us, it is mysterious as before, but more people aspire to. We have to travel long distances, we for this astonishing glimpse. Back on the road, the setting sun aside the clouds, the sky blue to reproduce, re-peaks are still far away from our silence silent, Ferris pass away. Grass was dyed golden yellow, a broad dazzling. Behind the crowd, tiny Debu easily identifiable.
5 end of the back to the car, the sky is already getting dark, and return to Aba county, it was already nearly midnight. Back to Chengdu from Aba, only a day away. The Peak is also running all the way, tea really liangzi the rolling snow-capped mountains all the way to guide us forward. On the road deserted, only half-way there radar stations. Down is the red of the original prairie, mountain at the foot of a wetland puddle horizon, the atmosphere charming, is worth linger. Long days and then forward point is that dam, to the red of the original good place to travel on horseback.
We have miyaluo stayed one night on the 7th returned to Chengdu. Elution Zheng Chen, re-work, to earn money to eat. Gradually, we all lost in the daily life, but that's a landscape, carefully kept in my heart.
Chengdu, Sichuan in 2003
