Ninglang Travel Notes
Celli and smooth-tongued
The passenger sitting in the second row is right cab Bei Yi, drivers, eye Intuit Master is a large, dark face of the middle-aged man, when he turned to wait and see when the car I scared a total harmful enjoyed. To tell the truth, in addition to Japanese animation, I first saw the face, eye area is such a big proportion of people.
Long-distance car to less than 20 kilometers an hour in the mountains kick into gear to Tuzhecuqi. Through the Jinsha River, the mountains and canyons and then stirring the momentum brings us marvel. I think, of course, is a tourist destination by the requirements, but the scenery along the way, how many do, many people tend to ignore them.
At noon, arrived in Yongsheng County, along the way horses Cyprus Road, the original is catching up with the mule will be twice a year locally. This mule will be in Lijiang are some exceptions, commonly known as "March" and the "Seven monthly meeting, "when you go to the market is not only mules and horses, musk, Chinese caterpillar fungus, Fritillaria matsutake and other delicacies from land are also up for trading. Ma City is a dog after a city, is still a bustling, crowded.
After lunch, and glib of the Shuiguo Tan to buy peaches, finally gave a price of fifty cents down, looking for coins that sell when the woman refuses to Peaches, and said to be counting the money bags. Glib was about the theory, long-distance car horn but toot to ring, and we have no choice but to leave.
After a while another Walled Village, long-distance truck slowly moved into the ground that read, "Ninglang small Liangshan Yi Autonomous County" signs, finally reached the territory of the Ninglang Xian! I long to exhale in one breath. Muleng Fang has gradually along the road up over the so-called Muleng Fang, is a wall the whole pile of logs into the overlap, and then build a wooden roofs. Glib in pointing to some Wearing a large black cloak of women asked me to look at, they are coming out from behind the house, want to come is the Yi people bar.
To Ninglang Xian City, when the world is a light rain, the day arrived at the lake intended to inquire about local drivers, saying it was to gather the 10 people at least are willing to drive, so they, and kiki wrapped in cloth in the streets looking for rain, as long as seems like tourists, they stepped forward to ask whether it is willing to immediately went to Lugu Lake, finally persuaded the four years of college students in Shantou. When we returned to the driver there, exactly surrounded by a group of people speak a tourist kind of person is tired says: "The mountains inside under the heavy rain, landslides have already given way to the lake broke ......""
After hearing these words, just feelings of excitement is also a sudden cold extreme, four students in Shantou, and even want to go home, and look at that driver, but repeatedly waved, saying that nothing will not go away. No alternative but to let temporary accommodation the Ninglang say.
After dinner, they wear slippers and glib hostels of went for a walk. Ninglang Xian city is not, in addition to a street paved with concrete and seems to be little of. The road soon completed, and inadvertently catch a glimpse of the entrance to a clothing store several "Bai Zhequn", which is Yi's clothing, I immediately pulled into the store to ask the price kiki. Kandian of that young woman said: "180." I have a closer look, including Xie Jin's T-shirt, "Bai Zhequn" and a headscarf, as well as hair cum, Er Zhu, ear tag, a small wooden comb-like ornaments, the price down is not high. "We have a small clothing and large Liangshan Yi in Liangshan is also different from the ah," That young women are the face of our Feng Zhao a square one, "said"
I remembered the road indeed have seen some of the first re-tile-type side of the large par Liangshan woman, side par front cover forehead, like the brim. As for the back of the head as the big kite, wearing a black cloak, like women, Ninglang down the street, this is a small Liangshan Yi.
"Well does not look good ah?" That young woman spoke side side of the square on the head complex. "Wow! Terrific!"
Morning when they were awakened by a burst rapid knock on the door, open the door you'll see that that was actually yesterday, spoke to the driver!
"Road leads to啦, vehicles should be opened, to go on quickly ah."
God knows how he got to know I live here. I quickly packed belongings on the floor under the hotel.
China and Pakistan are mostly local people sitting in the car ahead or behind, there is a sell fish vendors, to integrate the two baskets in the carp are resting in the aisle, this on the packed train more so crowded. Some of the fish belly upward , Hin was going to die. to sell fish traders kept one of them to fish out, the mouth-to-mouth to carry out artificial respiration. This scene kicking everyone laughed while blowing gas to sell fish traders have to stop, He He followed the laughter . not to Lugu Lake, the locals simple temperament has been a lot of people feel.
All the way listening to the songs one after another vehicle Moso boy advance.
Lugu Lake, the local Mosuo people call it "I was wood," which means "Mother Lake." Lugu Lake lies in the famous Lake Mosuo people living in the legacy of the matriarchal society. This kind of history can be traced back to over a thousand years ago "East female country", "Law pretty woman," caused by the Yuan Dynasty weeks at the "exotic Chi" in the account of one "to a woman as the head", "one satisfied Baifu harmony" of the Rolls-Royce nation, one of which is Moso and their matrilineal system of society.
What kind of a nation do? Poverty or backwardness? Their marriage is what? Marriage Law, where there is no effective ... ...
I thought this way. All of a sudden someone shouted: "Lugu Lake!" I'm anxious Wang Chuangwai looked far, in the plateau surrounded by mountains into, it really has a deep blue lake, like the fantasy gem, quietly lying there.
Gehm majestic mountain pavement from the goddess.
The blue drawing near Lugu Lake.
We have a place called the village fell into the water out of the car. As the just rained, leading to the village was extremely muddy paths, roads on both sides of a lot of kinds of potatoes, and some have been with people Qi-high corn, which is to on the road had not seen the guide book said that here are close to 3000 meters above sea level.
Temporary village with lake, a courtyard next to a courtyard, is quiet, and rarely run into a few people face to face, and we effortlessly along the bumpy road of the lake to find place to live. When one wearing rubber boots, hand - Canal basin, middle-aged man standing in the hospital I am softly to ask us, you do not live in his house hotels, the sound was almost too small to people to hear. talk about a good 15 dollars a day per person for rent and 20 meals cost money, we called in the Chinese Red Army's Mosuo Cao's home to settle down.
Mosuo people are generally Tetraena courtyard, the door to be shouted in front of lake to the lake side for the two-story buildings, decorated a new aesthetic. On the first floor the door is not open during the day, on the second floor rented to give visitors. open second-floor window, blue sky, white clouds, Gorm Mountain, Lugu Lake ─ ─ panoramic view. Muleng Fang west of the kitchen, the whole house to the roof from the walls are uniform with the thickness of the long logs Lei Cheng . timber stacked where there must be a cross, so that the end of the exposed wall of wood outside Gonggongzhengzheng, like most of a standard building plans. Muleng Fang east and north of the bottom stacked hay, probably upstairs is the owner of the residence of.
Luggage placement is completed, they come to discuss the water wash the landlord, get a big Tongpen iron pots, heavy-ended to the lake to scoop water, "the use of such pot does not pay to install water is ... ..." I secretly think the side as he Flanagan Horizontal carefully set foot on the lake trunk with his head bent ─ ─ suddenly gust blew the trunk with water trembling shaking up Haide shout at me, "ah has!", then also with the Tongpen his hands held together to the air, splash splash too, struggled after the meal, heaven forbid, actually still in the tree trunk!
The rumble, when you look back, only to see a group of Mosuo kids laugh at me. Summer the lake was still very cold, Cao Red Army invited us into the kitchen Kaohuo. A huge kitchen, there is no side windows, light from the skylight on the incoming transmission, the Red Army just Cao cooking stoves, and water heating, cooking, soups are a central fireplace in the kitchen on. blue smoke rising from the fireplace, around the beam, and slowly disappeared in the the ceiling.
We are watching and warm fireplace, knock sunflower earners spend time, a small-Hua Mao came from the outside do not know if spin around our feet, or turn around the flames.
Relying on a Kitchen God's portrait on the wall, Mosuo people's Kitchen God is just a group fire, red, yellow, cyan group consisting of a fire, if you deliberately go, the idea is vaguely come to distinguish a person's Vulcan faces --- a majestic! Yes ah, in this cold plateau, the fire is one of life, happiness, and wealth, a symbol, it is important and if so, even the sanctity of the.
Cao Hongjun the kitchen only give us a small table to enjoy lunch. Came, the bowl of soup, pigs scoop of meat, scrambled eggs and vegetables, a master it, the three children sitting around the display in the on the ground before the cry of the soup is not trouble, but quietly eating. grown-ups are kept to lay down their own hands, chopsticks, kept highly Tim to our red rice bowl. I counted a moment, 20 crucian carp were There have been 15 in our soup of-sheng. we really have a feeling both surprised and flattered. Indeed, I went to the mountains and rivers are really never encountered such a kind-hearted people, such a hospitable host.
This time the afternoon was accompanied by a fireplace with the Mosuo people spent in the chat, we talk about the history of Mosuo people take the marriage customs, members of a matriarchal society, tourism and the environment, geography and business to talk about Fujian Shishi people. Cao Red Army's younger brother, a born and bred in the lake side of the young people actually tells a vice mayor of Fuzhou, the name is, indeed, so I was surprised not small.
Mosuo people here to tell us about the "Assia" walking marriage customs: This matriarchal society is characterized by the legacy of non-married men and women do not marry, the two sides not to hold a wedding ceremony. Make, "Assia" General by the woman's decision, as long as both phase , the male can then close to the woman, at night, the man came to the woman's house to take advantage of the moonlight Kibusa side, throwing pebbles to the roof of the signal, the woman heard a loud sound, they will come out the door, the man Come to my room. until after the next morning, the cock is called three times, men and Fang Cai hurry to return to their home. upbringing of children born to the woman generally. male and female side, if half-way substandard, can be terminated at any time, "Assia" relationship, to find another, "Assia". Women's the status of the family than men in general are also important matters to discuss the decision by the women. This "daughter of the country" type of social relations, even in the world have also been quite rare.
As night fell quietly, several pre-hospital decorated Mosuo people, we have asked around and found turned out to tourists at bonfire party, including 30 of money per person inclusive of dinner. Many of them lost no time to put up along the lake tents, which disclosed the Mist jump flash candlelight, and hospital in stark contrast to the noisy atmosphere.
I prefer the quiet of those tents. Aside the tarpaulin, ah, which was actually in the selling barbecue! To see us come in, an ongoing and selling barbecue Lao Momo stopped anyone who speaks in rapid speech, withdrew. I am sorry to interrupt other people's conversations. "Eat what ah, grilled chicken wings, test grilled fish, baked potatoes Or baked Baba? "Lao Momo asked with a smile on his face the same kind.
Eating barbecue, we see ethnic dancing, handsome young man, beautiful Mosuo girl, beautiful singing, dazzling dance steps, see who mesmerized, one go past a few hours, we knew the ball had been end.
Came out I saw Haoyuedangkong, lake came the hum of the wind, ah the lake the night! Cao the Red Army entered the courtyard, they find the big picture here is another, on the first floor of the room already become a good karaoke hall, Mosuo boys, girls are enjoy singing, "I am a Bird," " goodbye, "" Actually, You Do not Know My Heart "... ...
Others envy of their quiet peaceful life, while the Mosuo people do, but also outside, the mountain that the world is full of colorful vision.
That night the wind came accompanied by the lake, tidal singing voice, and gradually fade away to sleep.