1998 Yangtze River floods, the Central Government ordered the Jinsha River are not allowed to be cut down a tree. Everyone clapped for this decision-making time, may have occurred across the board in this type of courage under Zhu Rongji, to live in this land of the Tibetan people how to do this? Need to know, forests and wildlife are renewable resources, is a natural gift of human life items. Here have survived hundreds of years, Tibetans have long developed a unique religious culture and way of life to adapt to and protection of nature, or where the forest has already disappeared. And this political campaign-style destruction of innocent Tibetans have to bear, so that they already live in poverty even harder, so that one party to the beautiful land and water are too poor to feed people. Write this, I have thought of J. HILTON novel "Lost Horizon", the Shangri-La when Conway did not understand why there are many religions but can coexist peacefully, the lamasery a practitioner surnamed Zhang answer those remarks: "Shangri-La has a variety of beliefs and practices, but most of us who are holding a Doctrine of the Mean (MODERATELY) attitude." "I should say that our universal belief is 'moderate', he meant it as a moderate in everything, including even the advantages of advantages over its own will be enough. You see the canyon, follow our teachings of thousands of people, we have found this belief to make them happy, and we use this moderation to manage, satisfactory compliance. I think I have to say is that our people section, there are restrictions, positive. " Moderation, is several thousand years, the essence of Chinese philosophy of life has become a way of survival HILTON described by Shangri-La. Perhaps it is people, religion, the kind of harmony between nature, it created a Pure Land on this side, it has become a paradise in mind. I hope that one day our rulers understand that they had had for centuries Shangri-La's own philosophy of existence, should be returned to their natural living space. At present the whole country, flourishes of excitement filled the streets of fame, development and performance of the impulse full of officialdom, that the movement in full swing-style "Go West", I wonder if people are a blessing to the Shangri-La or a curse?
Yakou out of a small snow-capped mountains, winding through the next mountain, we came to today's destination - Shangri-La Grand Canyon. When we arrived, the huge parking lot has not a car, mean that we are today, the first batch of tourists. At this point have been 11:30, and the driver suggested we eat lunch, and then into the gorge. According to hostels arrangement, lunch in a hotel dining Taniguchi, the standard is 10 dishes, soup, be fair, has done a very delicious meal. In order to be able to gorge Duodai a while, I devour, and vegetables not yet finished, it had been all through. People get out of a hotel, the driver told me that after the walk into the canyon where we should go back to iron, because iron Foreign Economic often beasts that haunt the CTS is not responsible for the accident, but repeatedly asked at 2:30 p.m. before the back parking lot. Although the promised his mouth, but my mind was denouncing the Road: He × a miser, which gave the two and a half hours.
Shangri-La Gorge, the locals called the Bi to gorge. According to information on hand, J. HILTON described in the book "Blue Moon Valley" like this Canyon, Canyon side there is a sitting KALAKEL Hill (Tibetan language means "Blue Moon"), the novel's hero is along the Blue Moon Valley reached a place called "Shangri-La" place. Although the ticket room walls a tour map, marked with many of the attractions mentioned in the novel, but I do not have a closer look, just want to use my own heart to understand.
Into the gorge, against the current but on the little river valley, stream out of the water is not very rapid, but clear bottoming out. Originally thought that Shangri-La Gorge is characterized by the United States, not the insurance, but had just stepped into the canyon mouth, we see the valley's steep cliffs on both sides of the sudden close up, less than 10 meters away, like a god an ax to a boulder split in two, almost vertical rock faces up to the 1000 meters. When you stand on the cliff, just like when you entered a cave, the light may not function properly dark pictures. Look inside to see, there was like one days the door, guarding a haven for people intoxicated.
Into the Gorge, at the canyon becomes spacious, and more beautiful the scenery. Winding rivers, scattered rocks, the river water spray thrown up a white sheet; river, lush forest, with shrubs, but also the heavens trees, there have been dead trunks; early autumn after midnight, and some leaves have begun to change color, the dismal gray the woods are to dazzle; Valley 1000 climbed cliffs beside the remains into the sky, only the energetically looked up to see the summit, originally gloomy days at this time are occasionally exposed eye in the sky, the sun glaring into the rock painted gold. At first glance around the canyon, you will think it is so messy. When sitting on rocks on the river, alone, quiet enjoyment, slowly began to feel around a land - clear water, rocks, Zashu, dry twigs, moss, cliff, clouds, blue sky * * * how to order, how to coordinate, none of them are redundant. At this point, I learned that, and tranquility, harmony is the essence of Shangri-La! The tranquility and harmony makes us free from fear, from greed.
Along the way, stop-go, no met a tourist, together with the car along the passenger seems to have been fascinated by beauty, and always see them catching up presence. After a more than an hour before we met came across two local Tibetans, and I asked how far in front of them, they say there is still a long way. Later, a thought, ask their own nonsense sentences, I simply did no say how far away from where. Then taken a while, went to the gates of the driver said, and was originally just an iron railing, a small door, and were not locked. Drivers to take a look at the time, should be returned, but take a look at the beauty in front of, their hearts unwilling, had the same car in which passengers can not persuade them to see if further forward.
After a while, first a pair of young couples. I have not asked, they first spoke up and asked me why not go forward, and I said that drivers do not let us go, they are simply: "Do not listen to him, as long as we do not go back, he always did not dare to open empty back there. " Remark Zhenghewoyi, grabs his bag on the move forward.
To go any further, but the scene has become more delicate, more and more wide canyon next to the mountain is no longer as steep as to when the. If the Grand Canyon and the Tiger Leaping Gorge, Shangri-La compared to, you will find that they are two different styles of the canyon. Tiger Leaping Gorge gives a "dangerous" people experience "what is the power of nature"; while the Shangri-La Gorge gives is a "show", people understand "what is a peaceful nature" . If we say that Tiger Leaping Gorge as an invincible warrior aspect battlefield, it is like living in Shangri-La Gorge boudoir of My Fair Lady.
Forward in less than 1 hour later, found that road further away from the river, went to the deep forests. I can not help but hesitated up to see if time was similar, we decided to tourists with the same car with the backtrack. In the walk back the way more and more tourists into the valley, there are horse-riding, but also walking. At this point days have been sunny, and sight Yehao a lot, but when the share of the fresh feeling to it disappears, the flow of people and teams destroyed the valley there's quiet, I am really fortunate to own the first one into the Canyon. If only now into the canyon, do not know if there any share of poetic-like feel.
All the way back, I will not stay away more than 1 hours, they returned to the parking lot. I thought beyond the appointed time more than one hours, the driver, if not criticize us, pout is inevitable. The driver did not expect to see us, that the response was no, and no grumbling, it seems that I not worry about.
When visitors in the same car, and sitting in front of local restaurant gossip. When I told them how beautiful the Grand Canyon, I was very surprised to find that they look like this was actually a look of disdain, I asked why, they told me: "In fact, you see only a small part of the canyon, and then forward with large areas of grasslands, forests and mountain scenery is very beautiful, but the length of it to go for several days. and truly good-looking valley is not this section, but in the downstream. but because they go too hard, even if we rarely go to. " Heard him say this was as much Yigu impulse, like to spend the night, the next day ask them to take me to look at the downstream. Can be thought of from a capability that point, this impulse to suddenly collapsed.
The way back to Zhongdian, we can see the valley full of red and green pastures, the issue can not help but marvel sound. Drivers at this time appears to be particularly attentive, did not wait for us that would just drive stopped. When we can not wait ran into the pasture and found the body in which, there was no time to stand a distance less attractive. Fire red flowers poison wolves, in fact, not a flower, but a grass. Later, according to local people said that this grass is toxic, yaks and horses will not touch it, and it leaves poisonous wolf flower in different seasons have different colors, spring is green, turn yellow in summer, to fall becomes a fire in front of the red, when the most is an attractive option.
Less than 7:00, we returned to the Zhongdian county town. Or never forget Inagi trip to see the sky still early, I am holding the last ray of hope, went to several places visited last night asked again, the result is still nothing. Death of the missing hearts, to the bus station to buy tickets in Lijiang, the defendant's high-speed bus is only 9 am class, is to Kunming, we should know tomorrow morning will sell tickets in Lijiang.
The way back to the hotel and found that there is a snack bar (do not remember the words of the shop), and only four small tables, even if no features, but added quite clean. It is in this store to eat dinner, they discovered a very delicious dishes to do, the price is also surprisingly cheap, although only one meal, it is boring, but this is my most satisfying Zhongdian county town to eat a meal of the . A few days ago we did not find everywhere, milling, today Daoshi inadvertently encountered.
After dinner, watching the chaos of the streets, like hiding the plague Side back to the hotel. A few minutes in the room watched television, more and more bored, just took a bath, home has always been a night owl life are used to me, and actually less than a 9:00, focusing instead on sleep. I thought, if a person come Zhongdian, killing and I do not live in Zhongdian County.
September 23, 2001 shortly after 8 am, I went to the bus stop, ticket window, Aunt first refused to sell high-speed bus ticket, saying that to wait until the car, if there are seats, then we can sell tickets in Lijiang , and now only sell Kunming. Anyway, waiting is boring, just like she was grinding. Then just come Sa Ghosts, such as family, but also want to buy this train to Lijiang, where they learned to use it I do not know the stammer in Chinese, with me, turns to Aunt to talk about things amused her-ri fog, perhaps looking at international friends face, and she finally sold us four tickets to Lijiang.
The return to Lijiang, Lijiang hearts the hope of finding genuine. Inn the last living conditions although good, but they are outsiders to open, and at best just a hotel only, the lack of a home. So think of an online tour of Friends of the recommended number of Dongba Inn, he punched a phone to the Inn. Answer the phone is the hostess - Shen, teachers, speak politely, and she was very sincere welcome to her house to go to live, and let me approaching when Lijiang, or give her a call, and she would go to the station to pick me. To listen to her that said, my heart warm.
Car filled with passengers, 9:00 left the station on time. To leave the county not far from the road to sit on a big Baita, the driver drove around in a circle, (but damn drivers actually around the wrong direction, so sitting next to me look like a cadre of local people are very dissatisfied).
I looked behind the mountains meadow, heart quietly say: Good-bye, my heart Shangri-La, is that you let me reintegration of nature and find spiritual solace share of quiet.
Two in the afternoon, cars arrive Lijiang and did not enter the station, on the road to us put aside. A taxi to the city entrance to the teacher, Shen, I called telephone, and she let me wait, immediately came to meet me.
Back to the starting point, is still in front of Lijiang.
I was sheltering under the eaves, a constant touting a nasty looking up, "Inn to live in it?" "To do ?"······ car very annoying, and just installed is not a dumb reason. And so on for a very long time, teacher, Shen Da Zhaosan finally came. Inn in the ancient city, she said the other end, a bit far from here. I followed her, after a large stone bridge, along the 51 road, and then Guairu sandwiches Lane, walked in front of a tree when the stars is the Dongba Inn. Along the way and the door did not sign, and if their own, the really do not know whether we can find.
The door, you came to the inn's hard to believe, more like a yes to the families. The house is very common, is the Naxi courtyard style houses. The middle of a small open-air courtyard, the main room is a two-story wooden structure, large door of the cottage is a kitchen, rooms are a few flat houses and seem to cover the time is not long; behind a low wall which is a small vegetable garden, Chang-How many pieces years have been fruit trees, pear, peach there. Inside the house is very cluttered, no intentional order. There are no bars, no cafes, no stickers board, there is no standard room, and even a TV set as if the only product is out of date. Looking at the picture, I know I look in the right place, I would like is Lijiang's "home", a genuine, warm and tranquil home, and the simplicity of a benevolent master.
Inn away from the city downtown, although there are no small bridges, but the room is put under house arrest. Today, few tourists stay, all went out to play, and at home only a teacher, Shen, and her baby daughter in junior high school reading. We sat in the corridor, when she learned that I am from Hangzhou, she was surprised and said: "My family's eldest daughter, Hangzhou is also the work of ah."
I heard this, it seems a lot closer to what the, who thereupon asked: "She was there to work? Do not I know Oh."
"She in Hangzhou × × University study, the first half of this year has just graduated, and now staying in school as a teacher." Shen teacher continued: "the same bedroom with her college classmates have been here, and some living down, they all pretty much the same in . "
Yes ah, I thought to myself, if I can not go, then maybe I would have been the Zhuxia Qu.
A thought away, he thought of a return ticket. As the companions in Zhongdian buy air tickets happened to want to get your return ticket. Shen teacher said her husband soon to go home, let him give me go get it. Sorry my mind, quick to say, I have not eaten lunch, the way to buy on the list. Was about to go out, her husband pushed his motorcycle back, one is a very honest look at the kind of elderly, poor conversation. He surnamed Zhao, retired, home care Inn. I told him hello, Shen teacher told him that I come from Hangzhou, the only smiled, said nothing. Be that when I leave, he has been sent to the gate, and repeatedly asked me how to go back to the way that, if can not find on the phone, he Huilai Jie. To see him this way, I have almost become a child.
Back to the street, or Nafu disorder, in Square Street stroll around a couple of laps, it could not find air ticket, he finally got a bank to find a point of selling tickets was told here only five days after receiving a ticket booking , if you go to Metro to buy. Heart murmur: hell, this What sort business sense, who bought five days in the ancient city ticket.
At this point, stomach rumble, hungry to see from the table and found out early in the morning hungry to 3:00 more. Walked into a street cafe for a cup of coffee and a sandwich, ate and watched the flow of people on the street in the rain. In that Qingshi the road, people coming and going, bustling, there are young, but also the older; have yellow skin, white skin, there are dark-skinned; thought, in the end what is attracting so many people to come here? Are those the famous title of world's cultural heritage? Yes it has been carefully decorated old house group? That poetry is like advertising phrase "small bridge, flowing water, people"? That was a mistake, or the streets of Paris, bars, cafes? Or just to those on the street all sorts of people? ······
Originally heard people say the lake two days is enough, to be safe, more than a day set aside to buy a ticket back to Kunming on the 27th. Bought tickets, straight back to the inn, to see teacher, Shen, idle, and she chatted about some of the situations the lake. She said: "In recent years changes in Lijiang, too fast too much, and do not know where to suddenly emerge from so many people in the Square Street area run their own businesses for more than 90% of it is the outsiders; city came in the door the street, the original is agricultural land, a few years ago dotted with rows of antique houses and streams. Lugu Lake in Lijiang the changes faster than the first half of 1999, when my family went to Lugu Lake, a large number of tourists started influx, at that time still very primitive, and the people very honest. could be wrong in the second half of the tourists come back incredibly Lugu Lake said, what are talking money, and even the red-light district there. now the village who fell into the water off more than we are the. but walked it delves into the case, many villages still very poor, in those places maybe you can also see the shadow of the former lake. "
Yes ah, the way has been heard many people say that the lake had a taste. I thought to myself, in a closed ethnic communities, once the influx of a large number of modern people, when their traditional way of thinking and way of life in modern civilization under the impact of dramatic change is conceivable. Changes in our coastal outstanding not the case. A few years ago, in remote rural areas, the hospitality of local villagers, would entertain at home brought the best things to strangers; but when they come to town to earn a living when the material was soon shocked by the huge contrast, was nowhere to The discrimination is not annoyed, accompanied by disturbances so that their ancestral overnight destruction of the United States and Germany. Changes in the Lugu Lake is definitely not Mosuo people's sins.
I have a soft spot on the lake is not all directed at Mosuo matriarchal social, cultural, much less distorted by outsiders "walking marriage" gimmick. I remember 1988, my first trip to the Dali (then did not even heard of Lijiang, Zhongdian, or a place, locals recommend us to Ruili Dao Shi), the first time I heard "Erhai Lake", the mind is very strange that on the plateau how the "sea" do? But we in Erhai Lake, the endless blue sky, clear water, Cang Shan has left my heart shock, were unforgettable. To the Lugu Lake is like the old days. So when I ask a teacher, Shen, "Lugu Lake Erhai large compared with it?", She felt very strange, they have to her husband and daughter, one to compare the size of the recall.
Shen, teacher also told me that these days is not a good time to go to Lugu Lake. Landslides can not be a new way to go, take the old road take at least 8-9 hours; 2 to the rain, in the rainy day, the lake will not see anything. She suggested I'd better go find a few companions, you can save money, but also with each other there is anaphoric to reduce the tedious way. Today, only lived three Inn guests are single passenger, a girl from Shenzhen, a Korean young man from the northeast, as well as a Japanese devils. She said that only the girl is likely to go to Shenzhen, the lake may be that they want to come back after 8 pm.
5 points less than they are actually ahead of Sa-back. Met seemed like old friends like, with no sense of restraint. Korean young man just graduated from university, the candidates want to come to work tomorrow to go to a travel company to the interview; Shenzhen girl with my same surname, and fond of adventure sports, mountaineering circles in Shenzhen, the wild little fame (later to listen to her friends that her moves can be "madness" to describe the word). I asked her to go tomorrow, not to Lugu Lake, and she hesitated a moment and said: "I'm not a big problem, where can go, but at night there are a few friends that do not know what they want to go. I would would want to be pick them up at night and then set it. "
She and Shen master out soon brought back the three men and one woman, four young people. After a while, again two Ghosts, one from Israel, one from Belgium, the first time to China. Had a very quiet courtyard, once jammed with people, you have simply one, it seems very excited. Belgians took out a thick photo album for everyone to enjoy a few Big Ben, which are his touring the world's finest creations; Israelis actually come up with a Chinese flute, the original that you want to show off, give us a blow, that that even the winds are not allowed to have a sound, this guy is also Zhendou, said: "I bought in Shanghai, flute, practicing a few days just to get that stuff sounded." Shen chef is also the atmosphere that we have infection, wants us to go to the garden Quzhai pears myself to eat, we were happy like a child, climb the ladder to do to find a big one Zhai.
By dinner time, we have six individuals to the city's most popular restaurants - Mama Fu (strange name). Chang chose the open-air tables, next to a small stream. At this time darkness fell, the lights, surrounded by tourists are everywhere, across the street has a blonde is with a few children jumping was no one to blame I do not know what the dance. Looked at the surrounding atmosphere, the early companions arrived excited and shouting ah trouble ah, it seems no less than when I enter the old town feel. Learned from the conversation, the four new people, and only bears boy named Xiao Yang know, is also a climbing enthusiasts, and others are known in the vehicle. Both of them girls, but also from Shenzhen, just a business trip, cis to Lijiang, one night; there is a little girl surnamed Liu from Chongqing. So they Kuanghe a few bottles of beer later, riding revelry, I am hard to convince them to join with me to the lake tomorrow. Perhaps the excitement was the atmosphere, perhaps travelers random character, they did not give more consideration I agreed, but finally agreed to chartered to go.
Eat dinner, travel to the two girls first went shopping, we have four people go to tomorrow's chartered. Came to the ancient city gate, they are skilled to find the taxi haggling, I knew no patience in this regard, we stand by watch the fun. I do not know how much they talk about cars, and finally found the prices they have in mind, 3 days 700 yuan, two days is 600 yuan, said yes to the Dongba Inn 7:00 tomorrow morning to meet us. Good set the car, the girl asked me to go shopping and clubbing with them, I relaxed, she says: "You can go to the lake with me 3 days, you have to go there tonight, I have to take on."
Came to the street, exposed the nature of girls, in my eyes is nothing but a pile of RUBBISH travel gadgets, they do not actually see a month are happy to peace, a few laps down, hands, neck and body covered with a things. They finally dragged to the bar, sit down and have remained the same stuff used. Then came a friend Xiao Yang Shenzhen, after a moment came from Hong Kong's, in fact, Xiao Yang's phone no one night stop over, as if his friends came to Lijiang like. They gather together, so my first experience of a lot of fashion I had never heard language, such as Mix, corruption tours, self-torture tour ah also heard a lot of anecdotes, some people say that they are insiders restrictions consumption does not exceed 10 yuan per day, and some people to travel for pleasure in the bargain; Hong Kong Brother who was even more peculiar, known as the "three no's trips," rain is not traveling, in a bad mood does not go out together, (there is a forgotten) . After listening to them that said, look around people, indeed like the world of the eccentric have come to Lijiang come, and they are all more than anyone else in the racked his brains is even stranger. As for the travel itself, as well as the journey Ganwudao, it seems not important. I can not agree with this.
Through wine, epoch-HU Kan Sanhuo to wait until 12:00. Back Inn, when, Zhao master waiting for us. We really embarrassed, quietly slipped inside.
Author: vianyang
