September 24, 2001 We get up at 6:30 the morning when the sky is still dark, Zhao has been the first we have the master up. When we have not collated the luggage, the driver also went to an appointment last night, and he has not come to meet us is to tell us that since the new road barriers and take the old road, then he would not go, so angry I am straight stamping. Although the driver repeatedly that he did not threaten us, everyone knows that he wants more money, but he did not expect that the middle of this play into the hands of my companions, apart from anything else, let him take us to the bus stop. Sat in the car, that damn driver also tried repeatedly to mislead us, they say take the bus take the old road, then we can only live in Ninglang Xian city tonight, to not Lugu Lake. If true, as he put it, will we not have to spend 4 days time, I really hesitated a companion. To the station, the first 8 points of car to Ninglang, I said to them: "No matter the driver said was true or false, and I definitely want to go, you are no good to me and reluctantly." They see me so determined, decided together with peers.
Bus prospective point of view, the car sat full. We asked the driver how much time can go to Lugu Lake, the driver said that if the road did not collapse ,7-8 hours can go to Ninglang, Ninglang car at any time to Lugu Lake, about 2 hours by car. To listen to him that said, it appears today to Lugu Lake, there should be no problem, hung it in a heart put down. From the map view, Lijiang to Lugu Lake than the straight-line distance to Zhongdian near a lot, but the old path to the lake to go to bypass Yongsheng County, Sichuan Province, take a big arc, there are more than 300 kilometers, rather than going to the Zhongdian where more than a hundred years.
Today it is cloudy. Out of the city of Lijiang, the car suddenly bumps into the rugged road of earth and rock, and soon began a rain, followed by continuous disk mountain, along the way I recall the Shangri-La-like landscapes on the plateau. In my view, cloudy day by car walking in the mountain, the kind of illusory feeling, it makes life memorable. When the taxi companies in the mist among the hidden, at times when the mountain, fresh air soft inspiration, Xian Zhi Jiaoren For For drunk; read the windows, across the boundless love of mountain mist filled the air, thick clouds cover the peaks, faint cloud floating in the hillside around the farm home, as if it is god place to live. Really want to get off, facing the front of everything, a loud cry. We are not chartered to sit helpless, I deeply regret it.
Took about 3 hours, car to Yongsheng county, this is a very common small towns, there is no features to speak of, but at home home homes seem to have planted morning glory, red-stemmed flowers hung on the wall, adding to the A small town angry. Guo Yongsheng County, Ninglang Shes entered the territory of the roadside villages and towns, the ethnic minority customs Shes slowly presented before our eyes. The most notable of course, wearing a woman's head in the Shes four large cap, thought, his head brought such a monster, if the blowing wind, how should I do? Dressed in national costume wearing big hats almost all the older woman, young little girl dressed in the body.
Although along the way, there are still many small landslides, but the road is fairly smooth, it is fortunate that today's drivers driving skills class, not only drove very smooth, and the speed quickly, actually a few more super-car. When we arrived Ninglang Xian City, were less than 15 o'clock, all the way only took more than six hours. The station has long been filled with parked van shuttle to the Lugu Lake, Lugu Lake to a wall, under a sunset, even though everyone hungry, so we decided the direct ride the road, not the county seat stayed. At this time our car came with a Guangdong Tsai has joined our team.
A van driver as long as we promised five individuals Zuoshang Ju, who is no longer so, and immediately go to the lake. But to leave the station after the car first went to install things, then yes and others delayed nearly half an hour in vain, angry that we Wawadajiao. The driver is actually very mild temper, and kept repeating one sentence: "It was left, and soon left," You really get him Mozhe. Finally finally were in place, the car in addition to our other, and their three drivers, car owners and a Lugu Lake Mosuo people. Because they are all young, all the way to it is not lonely, and jokes constantly. That Tinggua Mosuo people wearing suits, seemed to really understand the mentality of tourists do Searching for a topic to find some happy and what take the marriage ah, Red Light District, ah, mess with female compatriots, he kept protesting.
However, there is one thing They would also say the truth, that is the way to the lake and had a large cave. Mosuo people bragging on the road, said: "That cave other cars could not pass, we will be able to go past, so go as early as the car was definitely there for us." Approximately two-thirds distance lines where the road really have a Large landslides, when we arrived the car had already been booked for a long stroll, stopped vehicles, follow them to the cave where a look. Cave section about 10 meters, the mountain has been completely buried by falling earth roads, thick mud makes the road very slick, and still rolled from the hills of soil. I thought to myself, today Mosuo people down to see that capability in place to bring a single-drive vehicles pass by. At this point, a van like us opened up, which filled with people, it is the morning of tourists coming from the same car, maybe they have waited impatiently want to rush. The driver saw the car tune positive direction, the H-throttle, acceleration, just rushed to collapse the middle, rear-wheel skid, the driver is wrong even stepped on the accelerator, the wheel has bogged down, Wuhuaizai, advance and retreat can not. Car paralyzed in the middle of the passengers on board is even more pathetic, simply can not get off, or on the ground had shoes full of mud sure. While we are all desperate times faster, to a one三菱越野车, immediately in front of it to go to the hope that it can drag out retro van. May be a half-day could not find tow, finally brought hemp rope, hanging, after a delay, the car not moving, the rope has been cut short two, and even tried Jigen hemp rope, the results are the same. Then do not know who brought a rope, the thankfully finally dragged the car back.
The more people gather around more, but I could no one to clean up the roadblocks. See the lesson, followed by no car would have dared to risk. At this point it Mosuo people actually said to me: "Walking, we are washed in the past." Returned to the car, the driver said; "car seat five individuals, the last row sat three persons, the front seat two people, the other to go in the past. "higher state because of my shoes, of course I am down, as well as Guangdong Aberdeen volunteered to go in the past. We are slowly opening to the cave in the car before the H-throttle, start, acceleration, Haha, the car actually passed a miracle! Call around a while, the driver drove like a heroically slowly left the cave-in. Although the shoes are full of rotten sludge, can be really happy mind, we turn to constantly praise them, and music, he Sa Pidianpidian's.
After a cave, the way ahead unimpeded. Climbed over a few sit slopes, passing through a very vulgar arches, the Lugu Lake, in our eyes. Looking down from above the lake at a glance, surrounded by mountains, clouds and surrounded by mountains, in the evening, the quiet lake with the white cloud-phase, mixed Tianyi color.
When approaching the village fell into the water, Mosuo people told us: "before we will Maimen Piao, and 30 yuan per person, but if you want to spend less money, then it would for me to deal with tickets, and you will not the speech. "We find it very strange, but if can save money, while the music is not. Finally an appointment with him, we are happy to pay him 20 yuan each, the number of the property of his province. We came to ticket office and saw that he took out a pack of cigarettes, out of a pile, and handed the ticket, saying that the car seat had been his friends, in fact, downright genius believe his lies, however, so let us get in.. That Mosuo people easily make a hundred dollars, even more upset when Xiao Yang said that evening when we were living in liang Inn, he said it was his relative.
After nearly 10 hours of long-distance climbing involved, and finally came to the village fell into the water. Paths along the lake, one with a modern wooden building blocks, not the family inn, is the restaurants, shops or bars. Hanging from a door to block plaque, reads: "matriarchal family", "Oriental Women's Country," "Garden of Eden "······ so very tempting Mosuo name.
Liang Inn was recommended by a friend Xiao Yang, is located in the middle of the building along the lake. Inn has a large courtyard, two is a single-layer of the old house, bordered by a lake is a two-room wooden structure. We picked the best of the two viewing rooms, sit on to settle, then to the lake. At this point the sky is almost dusk, the setting sun through the clouds occasionally, according to the lake, the water gently ripples suddenly appearing slightly golden; distant lake, there are a few small fishing boats, fisherman cast a net and slowly paddling is really a romantic the pastoral idyll.
Unconsciously dark down, peer asked me to dinner. Then remembered that we have been hungry for more than 12 hours, in addition to Ninglang eat two or three bananas, all the way not eaten anything. Inn near the lake bottom there is a small restaurant was originally thought to belong to the inn, it is leased to inquire about a Sichuanese open. Done a great supper dish, then cook up a day and a night of boiled beef, we have asked for a two bowl Jinglian, as well as it's fresh in the lake in a small carp fishing is really taste great. Drinking wine, watching the lake, night, day's fatigue has been without a trace.
Eat dinner companions can not wait going to attend the bonfire party is full of mystery. Bonfire party the locals call it jumping Guozhuang, is a very ancient tradition of the Mosuo tribe is Mosuo people to meet an important form of communication. Year after year, one evening, the villagers have picked up the stick spontaneous stacked bonfire, dancing and singing, and then pairs left, take the marriage to go. However, since the invasion of video and television, and in the mountains has become widespread, spontaneous and bonfire party had been very little, only the festival was by custom-hop Guozhuang. Fell into the water village bonfire party is no longer the traditional sense of the jump Guozhuang, but an organized activity, said the village each household must be sent to participate in, the venue was provided by the lakeside inn in turn, ticket sales to pay village of the same distribution. Therefore, a bonfire night party is just typical business performance for the tourists, singing, dancing for money Bale.
Finally found a bonfire party in the inn, bought a 10 yuan ticket, entered when the bonfire has been burning, performance has not yet begun to see people who are also sparse. There are a Tingda Inn stores, bought low-quality tourism products is quite common to the wandering around in a circle inside out, the courtyard of the visitors do not know where the smoke is a dense mass of a large. At this time a siren sounded sweet, first four young men holding hands, around bonfires, singing Mosuo folk songs, danced a lively and monotonous steps, slowly increasing number of girls dressed in costumes, and the Moso boy to join dance team, singing, dance sound getting louder and louder, with the middle of Piper's tune changes, steps are also kept in the transformation. From a professional perspective, they dance monotonous movements are simple, but the character of Mosuo rough bold steps in that the original showed their exhaustive, it is also do not have some exotic than originally thought to be much better.
They jump for a long period of time, the hosts started to invite visitors with the jump. Began only a few bold increase in. Later, an increasing number of tourists eager to push me you pull a chaotic scene, dance team completely out of control, without a harmonious dance, only messy creatures. Our female companion also joined the ranks of crazy, I knew no such desire, he stood aside to help them to get clothes. Watch Mosuo girl deadpanned collar and dancing, clutching the hands of visitors from time to time correction of the grasp of the place, the original freshness of a sudden be replaced by a sense of disgust. Chaotic scene finally ended, followed by singing in antiphonal style program. That host mimic television shows, spoke as: "I now call friends × × tours clicker", "re-invited guests from Malaysia performed a show." . . . . . Hear I felt goose bumps, and then see the band of Malaysians in the Moso girl next Niuzhuo odd dance steps, is hard to nausea.
No casual evening, we first left. Everyone seems to not play thoroughly enjoyed themselves, but also visiting the shop, but also Paojiu Ba, drowning the village of Lijiang nightlife has no different.
Near the middle of the night, we walk in the lake a small road, surrounded by a quiet, only hear the buzzing sound of the lake shore. The lake is still, Castle Peak is still, ancient simplicity of the Moso people do not know Where Are You?
September 25, 2000, when the morning to get up dark days still shrouded, inns within a quiet, tourists and owners have never even been up. In the yard, wash your face with icy cold tap water after brushing, a lot of people suddenly wake up. Wash finished, came to the lake, hoping to see the sunrise glow of the lake. Slowly bright days can be a sky full of dark clouds enveloped the Lugu Lake, a thin white mist floating on the lake, a trace can not see the sunrise in sight. Path along the lake have been moving forward and hope Yunkai fog lifted, a red sun rises in the east. Can be walked and walked, not scattered clouds and rain but the next up and had to go back.
To the Inn, peers have to get up and are waiting for me. Everyone feels that the village fell into the water no longer necessary to continue to stay and decided to walk along the lake to go, can go there lived there tomorrow morning and then ride out, win by 12 points Ninglang shuttle bus back to Lijiang. Packing to, we have found a snack between breakfast, breakfast is very rich and very delicious, but when the companion would like to add a little pickle boss, he actually refused, saying the money should be added. To see such a smart businessman, everyone shook their heads straight.
Eat breakfast, we fell into the water along the lake trail was going out of the village, suddenly came across a convoy rumbled open. Hoi is a huge four wheels wore a small steel monsters, followed by a long slide of the American West all-Harley-Davidson motorcycles, cars, each with a license in Malaysia and Yunnan. But it was Bonfire night party saw gang crazy. Watched them deliberately bombardment the throttle, and a look swagger, swagger, like Japs village trampled a beautiful and gentle Lugu Lake, the lake really want to kick them Chuaidao to go!
Out of the village fell into the water, I did not follow the companion onto the road around the lake, but walk along the lake beach. In a Great Lakes beach and saw a few sitting above the camping tents, as much as visitors in this wild places and I really feel admiration for them. Left fell into the water, lake water became more clear, and although the lake beach full of pebbles weeds, but the lake of water below the Black Sands are thin, as if the same as at the beach. Encountered in the lake fisherman, asked them one day to catch more fish, and their answers surprised me a day, that is 10-15 pounds, that but they keep on board the outcome of a night, and told me that they years, fewer and fewer fish in the lake, they are worried that a few years do not know is it possible to rely on fishing for their livelihood had.
From falling into the water, the Government has already built a lake road, the road flat, all bend the road long and tedious. So long as down to the lake, I will do everything possible to walk along the lake road is near, no province can be a little effort. Initially, companion was kind enough to join me along the lake, walking over the water in the grass, wearing thick corn, as well as turning walls across the fence. After the ordeal, they would honestly take the lake road, only Xiao Yang and I still insist on walking as long as the lake, take the highway no. Her small head, carrying a half-human, then how high professional mountaineering bag, like walking on a flat down the mountain, and I am a big man, only just back of the camera bags (in this case go astray, and I put the whole backpack resting on Lijiang), it tired me out of breath, it is a bit put to utter shame.
We shall be walking along the lake so chuanshan, almost with the other companions bifurcation of the road, went around to the Mosuo Villa. Moso is the Lugu Lake Villa only star-rated hotels built by the government, allegedly intended to build in the village fell into the water, causing violent reaction of people fell into the water, the joint against the government. Result, the Government had to change away from the drowning of a Mid-Levels on. The Government has spent huge amounts of money made of Mosuo Villa, the original thinking of using a great lake, and readily available equipment for big money, did not expect that visitors do not buy it, preferring to live in drowning the family inn, which refused to air conditioners refrigerators carpets a product of modern civilization, . Compete with the people of this behavior, but it ended in failure the outcome of long-term losses, I wonder whether there has been lack of progress, so that the local government?
With peers joined forces in the Mosuo Hills fork, then move forward, there is no way down to the lake, and can only walk along the road. At this point the sky miraculously Yunkai fog lifted, instant blue skies, just, or dim the beauty of the lake into a large fresh beauty. Circle of blue sky with white clouds set off, surrounded by green hills with beautiful Lugu Lake, the water width-day high, lake prettily and Yan, in a different point of view, the lake was actually not the same color, white, blue, dark blue Here are a legend The green! Little boat on the lake may drift in the painting, only to hear the songs from the lake, between heaven and earth reverberate. Blue sky, white clouds, green hills and green water, boat, singing this is not exactly 10 years occupy one's mind the image of heart do? !
Of the lake along the winding road, there is no flow, no noise, facing the lake breeze blowing in, we relaxed and happy, the pace has become a lot easier, the beauty of the lake from time to time to attract our lens, stop watch, the road Instead, slow down the pace. I do not know how many to go away, turned a hillside after a beautiful bays in front of us, is surrounded by mountains, round arc-shaped, the lake there is a small island, like a drop of water, dripping also contains a link to connecting with the land. This is definitely a village and Rigby Rigby Island. Looked far from residents in the village is very small, backed by the goddess Gorm mountain, a row of houses built near the lake, behind the house is a large yellow corn.
Seem very close, can be traversed 10 bend 9 Shui, but also spent a little time for non-residents in the village to the fork in the road. I do not know why, walk in front of peers, and does not Shui down, but always forward. If elected, several more have no response, Xiao Yang and I without leave of stone along the spiral path winding down. The village fell into the water, compared with residents in the village to the original more, no fancy inn Qiao Hu, and no tourist shops or pubs in the village is quiet. In the village, we met several Mosuo Daisow, it seems that for passengers and boat tours. Asked if they could wear the other end of the village went to Georgia island where to go, they said the lake submerged during the rainy season the road, the village does not go past, only by boat or a hillside on the road to the past. 're Wondering, the Sa companion climbed down from the mountains, the original they did not know had come to residents in the village. After we discussed the preparations for a boat to the island Rigby. Then again partner with the Mosuo Daisow a while Kanjia do not know a grudge and still want to save money, to about 10 yuan per person gap, peer boat had decided not to. (One the most I can not understand is this Kanjia behavior, I think Renzailvtu, there is no more important than fun and should not be destroyed merely for Jigexiuqian mood. But he thought this trip full of Lugu Lake for me the sky, I have no reason not to respect the partner's views.)
Return to the road, see the front of the endless winding hillside road, or at least go 2-3 road leads to the connecting Rigby Island, on the slopes, but here to Rigby Island, straight-line distance, but two or three hundred years m , according to common sense can not Rigby from the village to the island, can live in the island residents in the village people to have to go do so many costly mistakes? Unbelievers temper prevailed, I own a rushed down from the hills. Back to the village of agricultural land, peer was right, all filled to the calf of the plants a field, simply could not walk. Beyond that, after walking most of the corn also have a water, hard to find a bit dry place, into the corn and found that there was not walking much better than the virgin forest, thick bundles of corn to struggle to squeeze past, did not take long , face, hands have been drawn to a Road maize leaf bloodshot. I do not know Old and in loitering in a while, do not see the end of the corn for the first time actually made me nervous, and finally retreat back.
Was going back to road, he saw a Mosuo Sister carrying a child over, quickly stepped forward to ask for directions. She said it is difficult here to Rigby Island, walk, walk up a creek, and then walked along the creek opposite the foot of the mountain, where there is a path to Rigby Island. According to her really pointing the way in a short while residents in the village on the go around to the other end, this time as long as the then climbed over a small hill along the lake on to the Rigby Island overflow port. Can be way up the slope, the path to Rigby Island lake has been flooded, and had four hands and feet, were attached to the rock moved in the past, if one foot Caikong, Lianren Dai package will fall into the lake to go.
Rigby finally reached the island I saw two Mosuo the elderly, the women want to chat a few words. But they said I did not understand, I said they did not understand, Mei Zhe. Person, one easy, it felt thirsty, have not brought water around the way are Xiao Yang gave me drink water. Take a look at the shadow of the mountains with companions could not see, he wanted a person to buy bottles of water to drink an advanced island.
Rigby Island, this has a narrow hillside narrow Road and connected to, this time the lake has been flooded hallway and also flooded the island's paths, the only access is to use a single-plank bridge erected stones, walking on top of people's Huangyou You . Are carefully walk, suddenly shines, we saw one wearing a fashionable scarf wearing a flower girl from behind and caught up with him, the original thought it was tourists, but to see her look like fast walking, and single-plank bridge certainly is a sheer The Mosuo people. Quickly flash to the side, so that she had first asked her: "there's a store?"
"Do you want to buy what?" She replied, sounds sweet, Putonghua say is not bad.
"Want to buy a bottle of mineral water."
"There's no store, but you can go to somebody else is going to be water to drink."
"You live on the island?" I Mohuazhaohua said.
"It's not."
No waiting for me to ask, on a curve, people disappeared, do not know if families go flash go there.
Reached an open door, see inside someone, left inside. Room there is a Mosuo Daisow are busy, very politely greeted me and asked me not want to live at night on the island, her family can live. Look around, this is a typical wooden Mosuo People's Congress, wood tile roof, two floors, upstairs room dark and no windows, in front of a small mud homes, dirty. After this occurred, not once promised, saying: "I am after that there are a few companions, they come to say."
She did not insist, and asked me whether or not to drink. In fact, I just want to drink, but to see her hands are busy stirring hogwash, Zhanman dark things, his tongue has changed his tune: the "Do not trouble, I went to eat the pear tree Zhai OK , it can do? "
She Mankoudaying, I casually picked a pretext to see companions came not, slipped out from the back door, climbed a small hill on the island, put a few mouthfuls of a pear get rid of. I very much regret it, Moso Daisow good intentions of my urban instincts been mercilessly rejected.
Sitting on the hillside, and so on for a very long time before we see a hillside road, companions one by one walked over to a girl named Xiao Liu Chongqing far behind. Xiao Yang, the first one to arrive, I asked her: "Tonight live here?"
Xiao Yang said: "lived on the island bar, all walk, the afternoon boat tour on the lake just forget."
Exactly to my liking, said: "That we live in that family?"
"My friend told me that there is an island called Agu Mi Ma Inn opened well, I went to look for."
After a while, she turn back, saying that Inn on the inside, very good. Then the other Sa companions also went to the morning, we went inside.
Passing through a few old houses, came to the other side of the island, there are no other existence. A row of L-wood cottage built near the lake, about 5-6 rooms, very open, very bright, and the old home of the dim suppressed completely different. Sitting in corridors, on the face of the azure lake, Xu Xu breeze blowing, it feels extremely Yat spare time. A few tourists came here early in the morning from the boat fell into the water, they are lying on the lake the tree hammock, with a big black dog frolic. Wanted them gone, I would lie to enjoy the enjoyment of hammocks is that they did not expect from a belt.
Ma-Mi master Agu away from home, we should not return until the afternoon. Three sisters, her family, auu Mi Ma Ranking third child Jieliang to tourists to do is get together for lunch. Boss came to tell us that our lunch have to wait and let the tourists eat in front of, because restaurants are too small can not tolerate. Although at this time has been 13:00, but the eye candy, stomach do not think that hungry. May be too intoxicated with the lakes and mountains in front of us, I propose the corridor to get to eat lunch, everyone agreed that the owner try to meet our requirements. We have collated small tables stools, a short while, our meals are also client in the ranks. I met a girl on the island who are Bangzhu this side and that side, vegetables and small, but definitely local, with potato silk, vegetables, there was a transparent wax fat fat meat. The little girl brought a large irrigated soil wine, told us: "This is a Homebrew wine, called embolden wine, guests have to come here to drink." Drink this wine I do not know what the gall bladder can Zhuang, only me and drank a few glasses of Guangdong, Aberdeen does not seem to shochu, but rather a sake-like.
Eat lunch, companions to the little girl to help us out to the lake a small wooden boat, the girl said that she could help us draw ah, she obtain other as long as a few people will do. To listen to her that said, everyone in high spirits, and haggling action has begun. The face of haggling gang veteran, poor little girl to repeat a few "boat price is set by the village unity", the soon lost under the array of. She agreed that 25 yuan per person (original price 35 yuan), travel two islands, but she wanted to seek the views of others before finalized.
But soon enough, the little girl is very happy to come back, said: "They agreed to ship immediately to."
Waiting for the ship's time, we all want to chat with this lovely little girl, named Xiao Liu is also to help her, the girl wearing a full set of clothing Moso - Bai Zhequn, colorful belt and big hair, would like to read about body Moso girl in the bow feel.
I asked the girl: "Do you still go to school?"
She replied: "no study had completed primary school."
"Why? There are no schools to do," I continued.
"There is only a hope primary school, junior high school to read to the county seat should go home and poor reading can not afford."
To hear this, a moment silent. I hate, the Government has money to spend tens of millions of Mosuo Villa made it ugly, but no money to school; I frustrated her companion why Yaogen haggling, 10 yuan different meaning for both sides. Lugu Lake, the lakes and mountains, idyllic is not only romantic, but also sad.
"You work out played it?" She asked.
She said: "No, never left the lake."
We are curious to ask her: "But you wear clothes with no distinction between the city girl, ah, where to buy a nice scarf?"
"Turban is a foreigner sent."
Yes ah, who saw this as pure as the water girl, I think will be happy to send some things to her. Later, several of us also put the body belt gadgets have given a cushion to her brain. (In the car back to Lijiang, visitors told us that the little girl's name is 7 pounds, because, when born, 7 pounds heavier residents in the village she was regarded as a famous figure in the lake in many feature films on television that she had the lens.)
Boat came, and boating is three Mosuo Daisow. Lugu Lake is really a woman of the world, to Lugu Lake, apart from the bonfire party to see a few Mosuo boys, the contacts are all Mosuo female compatriots, do not know where the men have come to go? Thereafter, they said that in the Mosuo people, to build a house, fishing is a man's live, other issues such as boating, farming, household, business and so are the women thing.
Both her and the girl bow paddle, stern a Daisow helm, we have five people sitting in the middle of the boat slowly sailed the lake. Little girl's rowing technique and strength, is also no less than robust Mosuo Daisow, asks them if they are not mother and daughter, they smiled and shook his head. People in the lake, the lake of mystery but disappeared, the color changes of the lake also look pale. Sitting on a low stool on a Feeling Awful, asked: "Why do not I will help you a uniform?" They are pleased to promise, and had thought I replace the little girl was sitting next to her Daisow the slurry to me. I told the little girl sitting side by side, but I rowing movements with her co-ordination does not matter how hard up, it seems very simple rowing, but for slurry into the water is too deep, that is so shallow, is zoned from a slurry of water toward the boat The companion, suddenly incurred foul meal. Frustrating trying to get to, and slowly into the little doorway, hands are sore up, a look, the palm has been flushed back to Inn found played two big blisters. Later, two other small group is also unwilling, we took turns rowing up to the island.
Last night, we have insight into the Mosuo people everybody can dance song. Today, sitting in boat, how can we let such a scenery all. Out the lake soon, the girl they clamored to be Mosuo Daisow sing. At this point shy little girl changed earlier, a person to sing up, sounds sweet beautiful, look at her to sing intoxicated appearance, could not help but admire the beautiful scenery of raising such a moving voice. Little girl singing songs of praise, there are folk songs, as well as I've never heard pop songs. Xiao Chongqing and Guangdong Tsai dare not show weakness, with the right girl played a song, you have a I 1, especially the singing Nagqu Xiao, "Barcarolle": "fairy wears a rhododendron, Ying the Feng ER carried away by the pink clouds. Chuaner shaken spring water did not speak, gentle rivers and lakes where is my home Who leisurely boat singing voice? gentle rivers and lakes to cool autumn days who singing voice leisurely boat? Whose girl Shui Pan-boat? who dreams that he did not speak呀ah, who is he ah, where is my share of home ?·······" sing their love for , Yushuihuanxiu than I heard the concert at the Luo, while also moved by his singing.
Boating three Daisow also been infected by singing, opening his throat again and again sang the "beautiful lake", "Qinghai-Tibet Plateau." "Who brought the ancient call? Who left behind thousands of years all hope and pray? Can we say that there is wordless songs, is still sentimentally attached to it a long time can not forget" Compared to the girls sang softly in front of small language love songs, that high-pitched nature, highly penetrating power of the songs, but also a long time in the open lake echoed!
God seems to have been intoxicated by the ship's voice, the next array of light rain later, actually in the lake draw a curved five-colored rainbow, and soon the sky actually appeared first time a second faint rainbow 2 rainbow-fold River boating on the lake we have , so that people on board burst of ecstasy scream aloud.
To a small island, I heard that on top of the mansion was originally the old toast, a little girl to take us on the island. The island is planned to construct and build a stone path around the island and up the hill, stone, cement, waste mountains and all. I really do not know what the root ribs which adults take wrong, and actually dare to come under such severe destruction of the natural beauty of the island. Such a vulgar, ignorant, is not it wait until the destruction of the awakening of the lake will do? This ruin, Is Non-destructive behavior make Lugu Lake Dianchi second before they agree to become a stop there? Standing on the island, really want to BS-ing! Read this island, like eating, like nausea and a fly is simply no mood to second island, and say that we would have to pay other people's money is to go to an island.
Singing with us all the way back to Rigby Island. Sharp-eyed to see a female companion on the island with a long-stemmed colorful wildflowers, straight shouted to Quzhai, amused Mosuo Daisow that we can pay Zhai 1. On the shore, the little girl went to the bush picked a wild flower, and then took us to climb up the island's peak. Rigby Island, standing on the top, backed by the goddess Gorm mountain, look up to Lugu Lake, at the foot of three sides is a gentle slope, bordered by a lake is a cliff, just like a huge ship at sea. If standing on the top, stretched out his hands, hugging the lake, its not a bad mood at the "Iron Tunick," the male and female standing on the bow of the classic action.
The island the top, I can see in the Shangri-La common Mani Dui and streamer, and asked the girl: "Here the people believed in Tibetan Buddhism it?" "Yes, we all letters, one to the × × Festival, in all directions Begum, who will be rushed to the foot of the mountain goddess, pray for divine worship, it is the busiest time here. "Gorm mountain goddess, also known as Lion Rock, is the highest mountain in the vicinity, perhaps in the Mosuo people's minds like the Meili Snow Mountain in the the status of the hearts of Tibetans. Then I thought of making everyone feel very funny thing, this is one of the Lugu Lake, in China's administrative divisions, the two-thirds of Yunnan, one third part of Sichuan, while the same is said to Mosuo Also the two places were classified as Naxi and Mongolian, is really irrelevant, where suffer where ah.
Back to the inn, almost 6:00, the hostess Agu Mi Ma has come back, and is busy with the house gave us dinner. We sat in the lake would be silly, she would come and call us to dinner, I asked if she could get here to eat the same as at noon, she was very simply answered me: "No way."
We Bushi Xiang also said one simple sentence to: "Here the scenery is too beautiful, or so we are here it."
"No." My reply was that word.
"Well," I am a little reluctantly went with her. Upon entering the old house door, I suddenly was shocked, the original hostess took us to the mother house is a fireplace to eat! I learned from the information very early on, the mother house Mosuo fireplace is the most sacred place is the Moso family and the community center. In the village fell into the water, the whole system is entirely to the mother house fireplace unit 73 composed of a tourist group fireplace, a fireplace one person a day, the returns from the average distribution for each fireplace, this system still used today. General mother house visitors are forbidden in peacetime, fireplace, casual visitors can not enter. In the village fell into the water, each Inn will have a separate dining hall, for the tourists away from the fireplace where meals, activities, tourist homes as far as possible and mother separated, and only locals or people close to the mother house will have the opportunity to dine fireplace. The hostess asked us to dinner at the mother house Huotang Bian, is our great hospitality, I am really senseless.
Into the mother house the light is dim. Middle of the burning fireplace Wei Huo, hobble around Jigen wooden beams above the roof has been pyrotechnics Xunde black; positive stood to worship the Buddha statues and offerings; the back corner is a great stove, stove top covered with a Block adult fat fat meat, Agu Mi Ma also gave us cook; the left is a very old bed, the bed seems to sleep a person did not see the light, too dark, nor indiscriminate Q; the right is what we eat a small wooden table. We are sitting at the table greedily eating rice, see our devour appearance, auu Mi Ma to us they have a one fat fat meat, and still manages to stop the hands of the living, give us to raise the wine. I do not know vegetables together appetite, or fatigue of the reason, everyone ate a lot at night, Guangdong earners buying power of today's most boating, Jinglian eat five bowls of rice.
We also eat when Agu Mi Ma-school sister, little boy back. To go home so late, I see the road must be very far away, I really do not know how such a small boy walked the mountain we are all afraid. He was holding a bowl of rice in the fireplace next to the eating, while playing at noon, Guangdong Aberdeen car model to give an exquisite girl, named Xiao Liu put her beloved bag full of candy that is fully given to him. Mary looked at him and Agu Mi little girl you have a I am a sugar happy to look like, as if my back to the own childhood, I also put the body comes with a pen to the little boy. Later we put all drugs carry with them all to stay in host family, because the village has several Moso women to lead a drug to us. Guangdong, Tsai said that he has brought a lot of stationery, sadly gave Tiger Leaping Gorge in elementary school, to know more with a little fine.
At this point, sitting in the old dark Huotang Bian, we did recover a conscience and compassion.
When we eat, auu Mi Ma and her sister before they agree to start a meal. She asked us to eat barbecue at night Otherwise, why not? Well of course there are barbecue, Xiao Yang last night to eat barbecue in the drowning of the noises. Discussion for a long time and decided to send a chicken, and 5 pounds Lugu Lake carp, as well as potatoes. Agu Mi Ma said: "That wine does?" To see if only I and Guangdong Tsai response, I said: "First it bought four bottles of beer, we have two bottles, two bottles of your sisters." Agu Mi Ma is simply said: "Well, eat rice, I would buy these things, 9:30 start to eat barbecue!"
Back to the room, a few companions rest, rest, reading the reading, I sat in the corridor named Xiao Liu a small stool, the Ye Feng Pumian cool winds, facing the residents in the village across from a few turns孤灯, quietly share of the Lugu Lake to enjoy the tranquility.
Shortly after 9 o'clock, auu Mi Ma sisters what time to get a yard barbecue, but took more than two bottles of beer, a total of 6 bottles. Looking forward to the barbecue feast begin immediately, and I called up one by one companion. All ready, fire blowing wang, painted base oil, put carp, Zaimo layer of oil, instant smell of fish flavor come almost saliva to flow down. Within a short while, oven, on a pile of carp were eliminated. Then came alive again in the chicken pieces, potatoes and crucian carp, everyone is only too familiar too slow. Zhigu Chicai two girls refused to drink, only Guangdong, Aberdeen and I kept drinking a toast with their sisters. Looked at Mary and her sister, Mi Agu drinking large bowl meat of the generous truly understand the "daughter of country" has the meaning of words. Eat half, auu Mi Ma began to sing "beautiful Lugu Lake," although the boat I do not know how many times have heard at this time, or less cordial, worth hearing a hundred. Xiao suddenly propose to allow Agu Mi Ma taught us to sing this song, she had a one to teach us: "The beautiful Lugu Lake, ushered in the dawn. Majestic Lion Rock, Baiyun-filled" harmonically-challenged in I rode revelry, but also gently sing again. Singing songs, drinking wine, six bottles of beer were all unconsciously we have four people they do finish all. Agu Mi Ma Jie Liang not think everyone thoroughly enjoyed themselves, but also embolden brought homemade wine. Embolden drinking wine, singing more and more resonant, more appealing, has been sung at night in the
This is the lake me a lifetime night.
Author: vianyang
