August 1 departure
"Ming ~ ~" whistle sounding soon as the train across the night, heading for Kunming.
At that moment, already previewed in a dream several times, when the moment actually comes in front of us was a bit Qieqie caught short. The mountains gradually fade out the window, I put the nose attached to the glass, all kinds of random thinking the next trip, finally could not suppress his ecstasy, laughing, elevation was low, "euphoric high altitude syndrome" was an early hit.
Compartment where a harmony, but only for a short while the Chairman of getting himself into trouble, this is his intentions to carry forward the spirit of communism to an old lady sitting next to eat watermelon, which was to assert that he was up to no good impure motives, stout refusal to face, like when Very Liu Hulan, which delete the elderly is also a walk full of cars, "expose and criticize" his brilliant misdeeds, our gang of people happy half to death. Later proved, the Chairman large body wherever he went, without exception, toss too earth-shattering, beyond belief, this is only a small prelude.
By the way, talk to my companions.
"Chairman" Bin-bin, just debut. To listen to know the name of our Minister of Finance the power center, Shanghai was very smart person's well-known, we have high hopes for him.
Wen-Wen, a lovely girl, the way we ate, lived through thick and thin, with "share bliss and misfortune the same as" to describe the more appropriate.
Yingying, our practice team leader, also be considered a bar authorities. Shangcuanxiatiao's the way we take care of quite in thoughtful.
Odd-odd, a prick to the President everywhere the boys, but sentence hit the nail on the head a language is not surprising swear off wearing. (Ps: the name of our trip is to go to summer practice Hongta Group banner)
August 2 stranded in Kunming
Fragmented night sleep, wake up the whole leg pain of lumbar acid, thanks to last night, sleeping position, bestowed indecent. Look out the window, Castle Peak rolling with one of nature itself the leader of style, generous sun of the glorious Saxiang every inch of land on the plateau. A princess windows a rate landscape constantly changing, and spectacular.
About 9:00, the train pulls into station in Kunming. "Spring City" the flagship piece of me right Kunming, filled with flowers and spring is the illusion, the next it is popping off the train, railway stations, railway stations across the country along maintained, "College Students Donate Sperm" consistent style, making us Kunming, a beautiful impression greatly reduced.
The wish to destroy Huanglong - Ben Zhongdian away, but unfortunately bus 17:00 Fangcai start. Then stroll Kunming city bar, just a small JACK send an announcement to a big fanfare of some of the city opposite house "bridge fragrant garden" on the red "cross the bridge noodle" is the name first, we have unanimously adopted the first one this trip corruption, the resolution - a big meal, calling them: "military forces did not move, forage ahead."
Fortunately, you see a woman on the road kinda RCMP's shift relief ceremony, the first big high-daughter at home as soon valiant heroic let me exceedingly envious. Heung Yuen Bridge is indeed a good place to mention the delicious suspense, surprise, I met a classmate of Kunming is a miracle, though it did not in school is very good terms, I still get excited, "Abroad case of refresher"-like, and his greeting of the half a day.
Back to the topic, to say our "bridge noodle", I still can not understand how it is hidden in the calm exterior so surging soul, but the cuisine Dongrenzhichu that point also lies in its mystery more like no good, I am also too lazy to go in-depth textual research.
After the luxury of corruption, along a path pointing to the Western Hills Xia Guang, did not expect end of the road is actually a zoo, and we also watched a bunch of accident-free joy of life is not small animals and a wonderful circus. Toss quickly finished an afternoon Dao Shi.
Back to the station quickly got on, will have almost the set out. The driver's seat above the phrase "into the Shangri-La and into the snowy plateau" This kind of low-level ad is enough to let me echocardiography endless. Can look forward to in the disturbed car quickly exit Kunming, highway like a sword in the mountains in the split-off marks left by the steep mountains on both sides of oppression have been hardest hit. Along the way, many of the station wagon and we go to Dali Sassafras shoulder and that we could clearly see the car guide Miss Bai costume-size-fits Hongyan lips.
Gradually dark days, and we are Gongzhu arch to the Hindu gang head when the car stopped at a shop down the mountain, the driver to take the passengers to get out then to have left them altogether (Oh ~ people go to eat only), full car passengers bored waiting-resistant, the scene of the old "game" - "guess the pros and cons" do not know how many times in the first staged. Southwest, long-distance bus can always encounter a variety of fraud such as these tricks, many people will not agree with mood and look at other aggrieved party to take the bait, obediently sacrificed silver. President Yoshimasa severe tongue-lashing his face, trying to expose their tactics on the spot, but failed, almost did not scuffle with people up. Fortunately, a storm quickly subsided as the driver back fond. Everyone to a car, it is already a few happy few worries, fraudsters have begun to wait for a new round of waiting - "the next one will be better," they says. As if those playing "tricks" of the跑跑rivers and lakes, with DV record their lives bit by bit, it is in a good theme, will have the opportunity to try.
Back to the car, was found lying on a comfortable flat can be seen all over the sky starlight, not consciously think of a childhood, sweet sleep.
Early August 3rd on the plateau
Is off the bump in the night of sleep. At sunrise, This car has been found in the mountains circled, looked down, a winding creek at the foot of the mountain, saying that the stream is not accurate, the driver said that the Jinsha River, is only separated by hundreds of m cliff, visual errors let us underestimate it. Wen-Wen and I just went next to the driver to enjoy large-screen visual experience, each car turned a hill, are excited that we were yelling, passengers in our calls in a month of the Xing Zhong's sleepy eyes opened.
Suddenly, one looked up to see the front of the sun in the heavy clouds of dark clouds in the distraction a blue sky, lofty golden light poured down, bathed in the front of the Castle Peak uphold the horizontal legislation, like the Holy Land, that scene, unforgettable, I want to "Cuntucunjin" probably is like that bar. Auto plate to the valley, the Holy Land in our line of sight gradually disappeared, the creek is near to us, its roar, in the Pentium, stormy, waves and tide, roll up a thousand golden heap, if Su will come here do not know What to do with emotion. Although the weather slightly cold, or the windows open, enjoy the appreciation for this runaway mustang horses unyielding posture, breathing a mixture of wild river full of air, Earned dripping. Few days due to heavy rain, and some sections of the river, or even already on the ground parallel to a river, on the reverse, I find the adventure, the driver Daoshi unafraid, skilled name of the steering wheel. He said: "After a Tiger Leaping Gorge, Zhongdian, on the fast."
Sure enough, after a while flattening the mountain roads are flat up on both sides is a large expanse of caoba, and the mountains just compared to a completely different style, which is a small Zhongdian area, from here into the possession of the real area. Caoba yak can be seen on the figure are a leisurely stroll along the roadside there are some Tibetan family sparse tall Founder of "Tibetan stone room", wall hanging rows of white yak tail, dignified and charming without losing .
Cars move ahead, caoba on the open flowers of various colors, then the pride shining in front of us, dotted with highland barley arbitrary frame. Appeared in front of a big White Tower, the following were filled with devout Tibetan shrines Mani stone, but unfortunately next to a big sign: "Welcome to Shangri-La," a little disharmony.
Soon, we entered this small town, do not do not busy, are very quiet and very soothing. Across a street car enter the parking lot, jumped out of cars, first of all feel the sun is shining, his face burning hands, and the sun is indeed close to a different kind of style. Everyone mad rush for a while took out sunscreen wipe, the driver down and pointed to his thick dark skin good mood and said: "The altitude of the sun so bright, you used to wipe nothing." Was persecuted by him, unfortunately, overly serious.
Here, everywhere is the unique color of this plateau. I carefully observed the plateau mostly in the children with round cheeks, the bright red sun mark, when they drum the Saibang, when you laugh, especially lovely; middle-aged women have had an entire flushed face, was very clear; as a man, his face is suffused with a brilliant bronze; old and yet look quite different, each an expression of their faces are hung with numerous folds, many have already ignored skin color, Over the years, the vicissitudes of the years bit by bit ultraviolet rays are carved into these folds, the heavy and strong.
Get off, we fly like a heap without a head like a stroll in the streets, this is perhaps the beginning of a natural physiological reaction on the plateau it, reason is said to be lack of oxygen. The city seemed to engage in what alterations have been posted the house is filled with a white ceramic tile, reportedly because of tourism development, Zhongdian, even the names are changed to the "Shangri-La" a Esu look.
Until stomach warning, we found that for lunch, and the spirit of "can Province of province, you could save by a hair, not a sub-province" principle, we chose a large bowl with noodles (in fact, because that family Lanzhou Ramen Museum and our nearest reasons). After devouring a while, we discuss separately to find accommodation.
Yingying and I walk down along the main road, hotels are still great, but added accidentally discovered a small shops selling knives, dead set on the ancient, unlike those bells and whistles of travel products store. Stay for an hour into that, even if on the one bar knives appreciation of literacy classes (Yingying was four apprentice, it seems to have a slight Xiaocheng), although the former is the only knives Jiuyang daimyo, but still be a sudden sword body was filled with deeply attracted to the mysterious atmosphere, and holding in their hands and rough temperament, cold Daoqi really a little guy put a knife Zongma no traces Kangba Tianya feeling.
Finally, one called "Lhasa Cafe," a small bar opposite Midao a small hotel, clean and cheap, there is a warm proprietress. Settle down, and quickly grasp over her inquire about travel routes, after the discussion worked out today's "day bus tour" program. Simply put, that is, the only two-way by bus and Songzanlinsi Napahai were playing.
Known as the buses on the small side, and a short while on the out of town, and plates after a period of mountain, looked back from a height in the distance white clouds blue sky, the green field, on a red roof hut looming; near , yak, yak sheep, goats, horses were freely yak in the mountains around wildly, like the cast of the past into a pearl. Unfortunately, the camera could not keep a fixed grid is in such wonderland. Roads, or large tracts of caoba, but we now know that their sweet-sounding name: the display. About 20 minutes later, the car on a surprise to the caoba Shui, we look at this piece of flowers submerged in the ocean along the crooked dirt road ahead 5 minutes later, saw the lake in front of a green Wang flashing in the sun a dazzling golden light, the dirt road at the end of hanging a wooden stand, a letter to: ira grassland.
Here we must introduce, Iraq is a Napa lake grassland, which is a seasonal lake. Every summer, due to the relationship between the rain, ringed by mountains in the steppe would be the same as the basin gradually filled with rainwater, this is Napa lake. A few days later we returned from the Deqin pass by here, the lake almost Yandao roads, the display of aquatic plants also have had to Dangdang.
Here is not the same as the city's attractions to visitors clinging to preventing, pursuit and interception, one out of a Jin-Jin, is very random. I accidentally became a honest child, went to management to voluntarily buy a ticket admission. When he first entered the door, it began on the intermittent rain, Zhongdian is such unpredictable weather, sheltering the lake between the red of that house, I saw a stone on the record of "... ... Napahai tea Horse Road is an important coaching inns, caravans here after the last break, we embarked on the long journey across no man's land, which is often a point of no return ... ... "When I saw this, really there are million species thoughts well up my heart feeling, neighing sound, cries, snow sound also seems to haunt the ear ... ...
Soon subside, I went to the lake Wenwen bypass Mani Dui, a small pontoon bridge intermittent stretch lake cottage, Dangling run up, a staggered and fell down Caikong good first arrived at the lake is not deep-knee, step on the grassland in the rain, but also cozy. Several Tibetan children playing in the water, one of the lead boy singing loudly, though immature, but without losing heroic. They were not shy, shouting at us HELLO, since we are also taught in Tibetan, the pity that the students have enough stupid, half-day nor the "spit-chi and" and "Kali Pei," to distinguish, they roared, " le, "They were happy to grin laugh, exposing teeth shining, very beautiful. Crazy enough, take the ride embarrassing dragging wet shoes run ashore, and I Liezhuozuixiao opened. The happiness and later paid a "heavy" price, that is, the next day I had to drag slippers to go on foot to Bristol.
I was mutter prayers in carrying my "vomit Ji and" suddenly do not know where to emerge without any explanation of a few Tibetan girls pulled me into a tent that is to look at the Tibetan wedding ceremony, show, girls free, tent stove fire very wang, buttered tea fragrance overflowing. Good heavens! They come in a few have all been pulled, we are surprised why Diaoxian Bing heaven, and sure enough in terms, pass a song and dance performances, the boys were "invited" to go to small Droma were when the groom, and then burst mess the ceremony, of course, is to groom pulled climax "bridal chamber" to the Dolma were sent envelopes to three boys on the so inexplicable slaughtered a knife, depressed the Lao Bantian.
Dao Shi-consuming series of setbacks left the Napa lake, but fortunately, a Tibetan Brother let's take a ride. As the outside had been a soldier for two years, he speak Chinese very well, under way for a lot of stories, still clearly remember him telling us: "Shangri-La - the hearts of sun and the moon"
Back to Zhongdian, he also helped us to Songzanlinsi stopped by a public transport vehicle. On board a lama, has been constantly ringing cell phone, business is very busy look.
Before the liberation of Tibet has been a form of theocratic rule, Songzanlinsi known as "Little Potala Palace", in charge of the entire Kham region, until now, it also received an annual pilgrimage of many Tibetans who came in all directions.
Temple entrance we met a lot of lovely children, a boy named calf smiling for us how to dance, he also paints calf-school looks like. There are only just a little girl holding a small lamb born a month.
"To the sister hold about you?"
"A money hold once."
"That I do not have the money can not give it?"
"That's right, to you, then good ah!"
It's that simple, ultimately, I put a flower given to her small head, even though I do not know to send them a gift in the end was right or wrong.
This bit smart, and we follow the tour on such a gang swaggering mixed in. The tour guide then Cengzhuo people, but also learn many monasteries rules, listening to a lot of myths and legends of Tibetan Buddhism and the historical allusions , and saw numerous Thangka and butter such as works of art, along the way to go and rewarding. To a height hall, but are also seen so-called "living Buddha", I by pressing the request of tour guides, and a look into the worship kneel before him to receive his reward, but because I presented incense money, half a beat when the slow-moving, living Buddhas actually open and speak up for me: "Miss, to the point of meal bar!" faint Oh, I immediately silent. I have extremely pious in the temple to pray for our trip to the genuineness of that snow-capped mountains, and later turned a dream come true.
Back to Zhongdian, very much love to bathe, eat, sleep.
August 4 into the Bi-let
Got up early, the weather was not bad, do not know take the towns and roads with no pass. We quickly contacted an "Changhe," said a long time the master did not run this line, and also the recent road is not good, nor at the end of his heart. But he readily agreed to take us to the luck, well, they hope that a miracle bar.
Master surnamed Wang, the Tibetan fabric called seven foresters, his Chinese is not very good, rarely speak. Chu Liaocheng car, though, and Napa lake is not a path, but the stunning scenery along the line, mountains, grasslands, barley frame, and from time to time you can see a white Tibetan stone room.
Quickly drive the car bumps up the mountain, up steep mountain is also head-off from a large truck, the body tends to tilt too distorted, it seems that under the careful, it will turn into an abyss, the master say that we are in fact almost as bad . And because not seen sunlight for the sake of the mountains all year round, roads muddy fog is also heavy, and we like the shuttle in the clouds, and sometimes do not see the stretch where the road ahead. Every time the car bumps are giving me the feeling of a cliff Pu Xia, Wen-Wen scared me and kept highly deranged look inside crowded, single-minded focus on trying to look inside the car moved, and afterwards to think of self-comfort, but is over-Bale.
I still remember the road had seen such a bizarre scene: a hilltop in the distance surrounded by the dense fog, the evil one looked quite a lot of Gong Qijun described in the book, "Sky City" style, to come back the way we are nowhere in trying to find it, but unfortunately empty-handed.
Road traces of debris everywhere, each met the car came across, everyone stopped to inquire into each other with their front road, we heard the maximum sentence is: "You go back in front of way too difficult, and we are rushing to wait several days for. ", and are said to have an almost completely collapsed sections of the road. We are a不到黄河心不死say: "They can come, we can certainly in the past呀!" But the atmosphere is not conscious of the tense, their cars are not like other people's Mitsubishi cross-country, mud-rock flows encountered such a low chassis are often helpless, everyone is put what the Grand Canyon, what Shangri-La cast it aside, staring eyes staring at the road ahead, to not be completely moved by both sides of Xiuse realm.
"It is you is you, and hide all escape." We eventually and that the treaty with a 30-meter-long debris flow ran into. Master for the first time the impact on the unable to extricate themselves stuck in the mud, we pushed off for a long time still on the no avail. Wheel thrown mud at air made me a sludge, find any, even the stern of the master are amused. Later, down the hill a few to help the Tibetan brothers, we toss a half-hour last Gao Ding. Although the victory, but Taiwan also suffered heavy losses, and all of a baffled. Those few Tibetan brothers and waved to us and friendly, no wait for us just say thank you and left, "Many hands make light, one thing is that everyone's thing." It can be said that the golden rule of driving in the Tibetan areas , would be kind enough to take care of each other is hidden in the Hanggefangbian a people's minds can not shirk responsibility. In the following itinerary is still up and down, push and pull is too busy, especially in the more than 4000 meters above sea level along the top of the hill, had the honor to experience a little movement on the Huchihuchi about the wonderful feeling of non-stop asthma .
Delay due to the way a lot of time, we have only successfully arrive until 1:00, but fortunately, all the way near misses. Canyon at the entrance is an open caoba, sporadically scattered several small hotels, This already aware of their stomach empty. A small restaurant here due to lack of materials, usually to the kitchen to that existing in accordance with its own mix of vegetables, this arduous task of course is to leave the President to personally take care of. "You act, I am at ease!" This time everyone doubly kind to him. In his consultations, and chef air when eating issues, we talk off from the boss, he told us that during this period due to severe landslides, almost no guests, only one today, in addition to our people - is that along the way let us jealous 2 hair green Mitsubishi. He pointed to a photograph on the wall tells us: "This huge waterfall on the 100 km walk in the valley look inside the place, a pity that you have no chance to see it." I asked: "Each year, more people walk through the valley it?" the boss said, also 78 bar, about half of the success of the rest are half-way folded back.
She spoke up meals, and all topics will be suspended, we immediately enter the combat readiness status, and as usual, the food on the table is against a blank, perhaps too grand and imposing, I found that chefs are not very nerve Jiacai of. We discussed a bit, how should a trip to the canyon and out of the afternoon 5,6 point, if Zouye Lu was too unsafe to go back, and had begged the master stay there tomorrow morning Sheung.
Good arrangements for the accommodation, the same gang of mighty march to the Valley of (In fact, in the Grand Canyon before, how can such a soul-stirring words from what I would describe it?) Valley of the mountain a good identification, but occasionally jumped out Article snake scare us. Looking at the sky, the sun reflects the golden 10000, silhouetted against the beautiful curve of the canyon; looked down, Bristol so he walked lively drums, the wizard in general Wu Zhao. Eyeful of mountains, mountain green - so pure, thick enough to almost-opening in front of you. If we say that a man like Tiger Leaping Gorge has a magnificent heroic, then the gift to Pitt for a few minutes while her daughter home, charming and enchanting. Fly in the ointment is that many previous visitors dropped along the batteries, plastic goods, so tired that we pick all the way, but you can do something for the canyon, or quite smiling at the heart of the.
Each bypass a mountain, is a completely new look of the scenery, blue sky, white clouds, canyons, rivers, flowing mix of all kinds, pleasing, refined nature only sigh fine pen knife. Do not know how long to go (into the canyon on the concept of no time), we came to a big iron gate Department, the iron gates the causes of rising water levels due to the rainy season has been submerged in the river. As already nowhere to go, we are going to turn back, the "call" and what do not know where to emerge from a Tibetan, oh no, two, three, had a seemingly casual ride on a boulder in the river shore The dead wood, and was actually leading to the magical world where the Gate of Life. With their help, we have one more in the past month from a huge rock on. Although the President had his legs trembling timid, but also has fears that turning over, after a trail up the hill into an extension of this long canyon is said to lead to Sichuan towns and the other side. Along the way you can see the face of many Tibetans and our coming, they are carrying a small bag of mushroom, a little boy tells us more than the mountains is now catching up with mature pine mushroom season, wanted him to take us into, but the the sky late were dropped, and later on, and he bought a little band back Chang Changxian Unfortunately, the original was in such a large forest has been severely slaughter knife, 10 buy back two matsutake boss said that he can send back to us a sack, depressed me to die, I actually lost that innocence in a Tibetan child's hands, tears ah!
Fortunately, odd-odd grasp of time, timely and ordered a halt to, or I went to sleep on the non-forest is not. Backtrack mostly downhill segment, capable small one, I have been tortured miserable pair of slippers poor, and Le was my foot swollen red inflamed the last straw just take off shoes and bare feet forward, but slightly have foot pain Zuanxin to when the lead dropped to Shique the end, everyone in the road faced by Tibetans Jianbu like flying, and even an old lady looks seventy to eighty-year-old regarded me behind. But after a while she was back down again, and I pity, "Jiji cuckoo," says a lot, but also pulling I walked a few quite a dangerous place, made me embarrassed to blame, after all, to accept a such a big help to elderly people age does not seem very brilliant pieces of things, but Ying-ying in the side of the smile is such a treacherous Unfortunately, I hurt him no effort to play the next valley.
Of course, ultimately, our dinner did you get deceived the matsutake, it is undeniable, the taste was very delicious, but also "corruption" of a meal. (No way to eat here, everything in the valley can be called a luxury) a great difference in temperature inside the Gorge at night the temperature plummeted, I borrowed a sister hotel of the pieces of a Down not enough, either, taking into account the collective interests have long the restaurant only a football into the arms of the electric furnace. Originally we all shrink in the house watching VCD to pass the time, suddenly a man shouted out: "Quick, the stars!"
Wow, although there are no dangerous high-hundred feet, but I feel are so true to the "hand-removable and stars," had never seen so many stars in densely crowded in the "narrow" in the sky, competing shine, This is the real meaning of the "Galaxy", and they are so close, it seems that it will fall into the mouth open mouth. In Shanghai, and occasionally before they can see the clear night 112 stars.
When running every night, watching the purple sky, think of the Grand Canyon, Canyon of the Night think the thought of the quiet canyon night, think of the night sky of these wonderful Elves, my heart would suddenly quiet. After shouting for someone to Bi fooled, and I think he must not have seen the canyon where the night sky, although not a blue moon, but looking at the stars the air deep-cutting, I really wish that this moment of time and permanent stagnation, whole life .
... ...
Roof to see the beautiful month of the cold heart finally been defeated, finally, I will resist, "sleep night" is quite constructive, but the lack of feasibility of the idea, obediently returned to bed, pray for good weather tomorrow.
August 5 to return to Zhongdian
Maybe my prayer played a role, although the next night, a light rain, but it has not affected much. Wait until 9 o'clock, the master pondering the sun dried the mud, we hit the road. , And came here as upset victory in a breakthrough one for each car to the time of the accident site a while cheering on the carriage, although there are a few minor glitches, but still relatively smoothly back to Zhongdian.
The most frustrating is the way I am sorry master, accompanied us on two days off in business is a small matter, vehicles were not being worn Qilingbaluo is very lucky. Came back to work the engine sounds have been frequent warnings issued by the spirit is willing, although the master did not say, but they all know that he actually was terrible heartache, after all, this is also a tool for other people feed their families. We do not only gave him 100 yuan, the do not know can do something about it.
Master the evening took us to see the collector singing and dancing performances, I did not do another, in addition to drinking, that is, to learn the very heart of Tibetan dance in an attempt to come to Tibet to the mix to eat, but was immediately hit the Tibetan PPJJ of dance back to original shape.
Farewell Master, when really a little reluctant to part, due to preparations for the next day to go Deqin, they said yes, and the master came back to his house to a guest, authentic yak milk, cheese, butter tea, we have long conspiracy to satisfy their appetites with a.
August 6 Meri RPG full Gonglue (1)
Production: "Another burning" the Working Group Issue: loquat Type: RPG
Language: Chinese, Tibetan operating environment: Deqin County, northwest Yunnan Diqing configuration: silver number, a few pieces of clothing, food a little, mobile phone 1, maps a
Background:
In Yunnan Province and Tibet Autonomous Region, northwest of the junction of south-east, luxuriant gray of the nu shan from north to south pointing down, the Nu River in Yunnan-Tibet border at the northern section of east longitude 98 degrees 30 minutes to 98 degrees 52 minutes north latitude, 28 degrees 16 minutes to 28 degrees 33 minutes between the 30 km long north-south vertical east-west width of 36 km, known as - Prince Snow Mountain, its peak is the Meili Snow Mountain, "Kawageluo" was Tibetan compatriots as "Eight Kamiyama," the first . Snow height of 6740 meters above sea level, located at longitude 98 degrees 6 minutes north latitude 28 degrees 4 minutes. Nu shan ridge located in the main ridge line. From the peak to the foot of the entrance of the Lancang River Edge Akinaga (elevation 2038 meters), height difference up to 4700 meters. In the horizontal distance of 14 kilometers within l per km would have to move up 360 meters, we can see the steep mountain.
Zhongdian wedge elevation was only 3,000 then 300 meters, but 24 hours after the line 5 will be 6740 meters above sea level stand at the foot of the Meili, because I have faced up to, although I did many life decisions, but this one I think it is perfect ... ... I think is no other choice.
Plan Your Trip in Shanghai, plans, through the N sub-argument analysis is only a distant dream to Merrill this as a "buildup" as the reference line, versus the number before making any decisions. Do not know whether the plateau dizzy with excitement because I have a hidden wild ambition, intention at the appropriate time to commence full offensive instigation. Strenuous tongue has employed every means, finally got a few Miss childe were extremely reluctant to default in this tour of action (Oh, do not know how they are and later on in the bottom of my heart I secretly the correct guidance of the road singing the praises of it)
Chapter Hangzhewujiang is not yet dawn I climbed up in the cold morning breeze all the way to get to bus stops to buy a ticket, a few Slob still fast asleep. No way contrary to the public insists on is this fate, but fortunately, God's eyes are discerning, so I got a few days the only train trip to the final five tickets. Wandering in the streets anxious to 8:00, and finally looked forward to our bus, but when it appears in the eyes, the shape of the car just let me look dumbfounded, car body filled with numerous scars on the Yunnan-Tibet line hard, I know that the dead, and those few guys see this car "elegant" appearance I criticized a Gouxue non the nozzle can not be.
Fortunately, these kids careless lack of such a discerning my keen observation, panic boarded the bus, I am secretly relieved. However, on the highway, my heart flew again raised up, Yunnan-Tibet line of rugged and the "difficult roads of Shu extremely difficult for" When compared favorably. The width of the highway is almost large enough only to a passenger or large cargo passed, today, too, was really hard to imagine how difficult year caravan trek. We are in the last row of a mad Britain enjoying the stimulation, the body of each and every road into a 45-degree angle of tilt take their nervous screaming in the car almost all the locals, it has long turned a blind eye, remain indifferent. Also can not blame we are too squeamish, enjoying highland scenery along the way, they also can be seen everywhere turn to the car at the roadside and the car towed away the traces left behind, sitting in the window, I stuck your head can be seen flying at the foot of the mountain all the way Ben's rivers do not see the wheels Zhaguo roads. Large and small rivers in the highlands are full of dynamism and vitality, unceasing Paohou the Pentium with, unlike south of the pool of stagnant water.
Around noon, cars drive into the valley and see the two rivers parallel spectacular sight, especially in the confluence witnessed a false charge Cangjiang Chui how he has been a little bit of swallowing the Jinsha River. Across the Jinsha River Bridge, a painted face of the Meili Snow Mountain Huazhizhaozhan told that we have officially entered the Deqin boundaries. The car stopped in the benzilan for lunch, where I was making a major error committed on - because the stomach was not feeling well, there is no go for dinner, only eating the apple because it was almost a careless brew into the round loser consequences. (In the end how the story, followed by its own decomposition)
The car continued to the road, this area Yamagata even more strange, the terrain has become even more advantageous, but fortunately, we have gradually accustomed to the. 而且. I saw the first snow-capped mountains life - Pak Mong snow-capped mountains, due to the proper heat, and only a little snow peak, as head of the aura of an angel, naughty cute, yet holy Unfortunately, snap a few photos are an unintelligible look.
Around 5 pm, and finally arrived in the town peacefulness of this mountain valley town of narrow and crowded, that is, a bus is to create monster effects. Get off more than we dared not break, and quickly find car into the mountains. A teacher told us that on the Yunnan-Tibet highway collapse had just come out repairs, but after a false charge Cangjiang bridge has a large landslides may go through, what he meant was for us to first temple stay there and think carefully before flying. However, we still stubborn to allow him to send us to places where landslides intended to walk into the office from the landslides.
Chapter Shuanglengchanghe road really bad on the Yunnan-Tibet Highway, repair workers everywhere, every time a car pass by, they would stop the curious looked on us. Dark faces, white teeth, bright smile, and we greeted them loudly. It is this group of people, sleeping on the roadside shanties, drinking mountain springs, with their own hands to maintain this in the smooth flow of blood into Tibet.
Po under the Yunnan-Tibet line, he is a bumpy road of earth and rock before an understand that in such a harsh natural conditions, the Yunnan-Tibet Highway is indeed regarded as kinds of luxury. Reach the cave is at dusk, breezy, Shashi pleasant. Is our most do not expect to happen: the cave is a small matter falling rock is too serious a breeze is a burst of Stone Rain, but the road is not filled with mud but stone is not a thin slippery sand, extending from the mountains to the cliff edge on to draw a smooth curve. Looked down, make a false Cangjiang roar too scared, I am a little legs become soft. Just begun the path, Yingying said, try to go up because the deposits at the top there are some large stones, he is actually very flexible and up, but the more the higher the climb did not find a way to climb over, we are afraid of So he climbed to the top of Kawageluo gone, hastened to call him to withdraw. Then came a gang of Cantonese is also, and decided to give up after trying to get to wait and see, backtrack.
Naoliaobantian or helpless, and we hesitated.忽然一个女孩从塌方的地方冒了出来，还有一个藏民。他们可以过来我们也可以过去嘛，我一下子信心大增，喜滋滋的和司机说请他先回去了，那个藏族大叔也答应帮我们过去。原来他们选择的是顺着崖边走，虽然是松软饿细沙，但是采取把脚插进沙里的办法，莹莹沿着他指点的路线，很快过去了。轮到我了，心儿一阵狂跳，连瞟一眼澜沧江的勇气都没了，但还是故作镇定，一步一脚印的向前走，眼看成功在望，忽然一阵狂风大作（也许在别处我根本就不会把这看做狂风）大叔一把抓住我几乎是瞬间把我拖回了起点处，一抬头，巨石狂坠。要不是这位大叔先知先觉，我可能已经在此呜呼哀哉了，他看看天，正色到：“天黑了风更大，今天你们最好不要过了！”我还惊魂未定，心有余悸，赶紧投了赞成票。最后大家一致通过：撤！
不幸的是，师傅已经走远，这里荒无人烟，手机又没信号，大家正不知如何是好，大叔建议我们向雨崩神瀑方向走，也许有人家可以投宿。其实情况已经没得选择只有这样了。折腾了一天，我是饿得发慌，可是现在我们就剩下一点水，刚才走得太急一时疏忽忘记在升平补充养料了。大家走得七七八八的，天越来越黑，前方却是不见半点灯光，倒是时不时可以听到几声狼嚎，我心里都有点发毛了，我们可是没带半点露营的装备啊。到了九点多的样子，终于在道边看到一户人家。
一条大黑狗跳了出来给了我们一个下马威先，也不知道是不是藏獒。一会主人出来把狗喝开，热情的把我们迎了进去。这里住的是一个老爷爷和一个老婆婆，都是很大很大的年纪，可是完全不懂汉语。还好有一个工程队借住在这里，帮我们客串了翻译。
进屋在炉边坐下，大家愉快的“攀谈”起来，老爷爷刚搬出吃的我们一帮人马上两眼绿光，和通红的炉火交相辉映，好不壮观。也许是好久没见到客人，老爷爷和老婆婆都特别开心，还捧出自家酿造的青稞酒。架不住他们的热情，我就这么空着肚子连干了五碗。然后就晕晕忽忽不醒人事了。
8月7日梅里RPG 全攻略（2）
第三篇千年一叹醒来时已经是第二天了，估计是被自己的一身酒气熏醒的。据说我昨天是吐了一夜，FT啊！在这种地方居然喝地伶酊大醉，真服了自己。起来洗漱，但是手脚却像小孩一样不听使唤，八成是因为脑干还处于麻醉状态吧。头爆炸似的痛，我只好又躺下，当时虚脱得真有点绝望了。
一头牛晃晃悠悠来到屋门口，大眼睛忽闪忽闪的瞅着我们，样子可爱极了。老爷爷给我熬了点粥送进来，还给了我一片止痛药，我稀里糊涂把药吞下，已经空了一天吐了一夜的胃再也坚持不住这这样的刺激，一下子胃痛风起云涌彻底盖过头痛的风头。老爷爷一看大事不妙，又找出一管黑色的药水，刺激性很强的样子，他们病急乱投医般的帮我灌下，立刻见效——“哇！”我又是一阵狂吐，这下我是吓得除开喝水外不敢再有任何二心。
看来这次真是大意失荆州了，现在这走路都打颤的样子，就算没塌方，估计刮阵风就可以到澜沧江“一日千里”去了。我沮丧的想，看来这次得和他们say 88了，就只有在德钦休养生息几日再进梅里了。
中午经过一番唇枪舌战，最终统一了看法——到塌方的地方再去碰碰运气。和老爷爷老婆婆拍了张“全家福”后，我们原路返回。
天气不错，塌方处的落石也基本停了。堆积物上由于“走的人多了”，“也就有了路”，事情比我们预计的要好很多，在别人的帮助下我也踉踉跄跄的走了过去。过了塌方处路面状况非常好，我却拖着两条像是灌了铅的腿在后面磨蹭，走不了几步就大口喘着粗气，那会我看真连吸氧的心都有了（ps：此处海拔好象只有2000多而已）。还好碰到山上明永村一家小饭店开车到塌方处来接人，我就刚好搭了顺风车。
我到达的时候他们已经在一家小旅馆点好了菜，按照惯例，又是一轮疯抢，只是今天是加倍风卷残云的把对桌上为数不多的几个盘子进行拉锯式扫荡。吃完后我马上精神大振容光焕发，my god！估计我是给饿得四肢发软，看来是过分高估了青稞的杀伤力。
下午在树林深处一个清泉旁边洗了个背靠雪山的露天冷水澡，诗情画意。终于把一身酒气去掉，换了衣服，简直达到神清气爽的境界。休息了一会醒来，那几位小朋友已经铺开麻将展开了战局，挨着6740米雪山搓麻将，够有气质。
我只好一个人到村里那块正对着卡瓦格罗的大草坪上去溜达，几乎不敢相信自己就已经真真切切的来到了梅里的脚下。席地而坐，长发自在的随风飘扬，安静的看着雪山和白云快乐的玩着捉迷藏的游戏，看着夕阳一点点在雪山上染出淡红的色彩，就象给待嫁的姑娘轻轻盖下红盖头，几分羞涩、几分庄重。其实这已经不是我第一次直面雪山了。人家说在雨季几乎不可能看到雪山的“庐山真面目”，可我是幸运的，从看到她的第一眼起，她就没在我的面前蒙上那层厚厚的白纱。
前面每次写到梅里出现的地方，我总是跳开话题，顾左右而言它，其实心里是害怕的，害怕自己拙劣的文笔玷污了雪山的圣洁。
第一眼看到梅里是客车快到升平镇的时候，从远处眺望连绵起伏的太子十三峰，见识的是梅里磅礴的气势，这时梅里是威武的。
第二次眼是在我们驱车赶往澜沧江大桥的路上，在两座青山的夹缝中梅里调皮的探出头来，一青二白，对比鲜明，却是让我想起了“一行白鹭上青天”，这时梅里是可爱的。
第三眼就是在翻越塌方徒步进村的路上，一路迎着卡瓦格罗前进，眼前看到的不是蓝天白云而是蓝天白雪，太阳、雪山一齐闪耀着，明晃晃的照得我眼睛疼痛，却是不敢闭目养神，生怕一睁开眼睛，看到的只是空荡荡的一片。在它面前，我觉得自己似乎也成了个虔诚的信徒，对着雪山，顶礼膜拜，这时梅里是高贵的。
还有就是现在，雪山就在我的身边，尽管空间距离亲近了，但是它那种遥不可及，的神秘气质却是一如既往，在她面前，我们永远都是小孩子，享受着她的庇护和恩赐，转山的藏民也许就是在感激雪山的这份庇佑。
... ...
想着想着，梅里已经不知不觉的淹没在蓝色的夜色中，天地间唯有肃穆。
回到小旅馆，听大厨说了一晚的故事，全是关于梅里的，从中日联合登山队到神山显灵，从地震到莲化生大师的预言，无论真假，反正个个都说得绘声绘色，直接导致了我梦了一夜的雪山，不过都是噩梦。
8月8日梅里RPG 全攻略（3）
第四章 山居笔记今天天还没亮就起来了，为了不像昨天那样拖累大家，我匆匆洗漱就一个人提前上路了。顺着山路曲曲折折往上盘，两岸青山，风景绝佳。从开始的健步如飞到后来的走走歇歇，我还是被一帮骑马上山的上海人给赶上了，一个赶马的藏族小mm看我累得够呛，把她的手杖借给了我，最后干脆直接上阵拉着我往上跑，就像莲波微步般一溜烟来到了太子庙前。她冲我友好的笑笑，自顾去照顾她的马儿去了。
我仔细观察四周，这才发现就这么着来到了明永冰川的上方，俯视下去，冰川顺着雪山向上绵延，直到云雾缭绕的地方。由于下雨山体坍塌，使得洁白晶莹的冰川罩上了件灰色的外套，冰川表面形状千奇百怪，大大小小的冰缝纵横交错，有的地方还绽放着巨大的蓝色冰花。不经意间，你会听到“哗”的一声在山谷中回响，那就是一次小小的雪崩，幸运的话就可以看到一团白雾飞速向下坠落的精彩镜头。
在太子庙附近逛了半天都还没收到他们已经出发的消息，唉，估计不是在吃就是在睡，猪的本性在梅里温柔的注视下通通暴露。我终于忍不住推看了太子庙外面那扇小木门，“吱嘎”一声。穿过一个小菜园我已经到了大殿，虽然有点阴暗，但是也还算干净。 （中国没几个寺庙是光线充足阳光灿烂型的）位上供奉的是曾在此悟道的莲花生大师，庙里没有喇嘛，只有个来自印度的看香人，他叽叽咕咕的和我说了一堆梵语，我也连中带英的比划了半天，可惜大家都没能领悟对方的意思。
那些家伙终于出发了，以他们这点速度，估计最少2个半小时。我实在等不及了，决定一个人先上观景台。所谓“观景台”，就是顺着山体在冰川上方搭个台子，最大作用莫过于拍照纪念。可惜雪山一直都被云雾笼罩，今年估计就只有看冰川的命了。我坐在观景台的最高的地方继续边看冰川、边等候他们的到来。过了一会，居然下起了小雪，“人间四月芳菲尽，山寺桃花始盛开”到了高原，还可以看到六月飘雪，正冻得直哆嗦他们总算是上来了。
苦苦守侯了好久，雪山还是“犹抱琵琶半遮面”，只好沮丧的返回。不过昨天有幸见识到梅里的风情万种，已是窃喜。下来的路上，一个碰巧，却帮我们造就了一段有趣的经历。一个年轻人向我们打听下冰川的路，我大讶：“可以下去吗？”他信誓旦旦的地说他曾亲眼看到过朋友的坐在冰川上的照片，刚好过来个藏族小孩，告诉我们由于攀冰危险太大，这条路早给封了。我们只好遗憾的各自走开了。
可是，天无绝人之路，只要有就一定可以找到，怎么说摸摸亿年冰川也足以最高层次的满足我的好奇心和虚荣心，这么蛊惑人心的事雯雯当然和我一拍即合，三个男生却是搬出100条理由不愿意，那么只好暂时分道扬镳一下了，大家说好六点在村里草坪上见然后乘班车回升平镇。
探路行动开始了，先从太子庙后那个可疑的玛尼堆开始，它旁边一条幽深的小径不知通向何方，可是我们沿着它左曲右拐，却是绕回到大路上来。看来得改变策略，要上冰川，必须走进河谷一带，然后沿河逆流而上。于是乎我们找到上山时曾经把我们领入歧途的小道（决不放过任何一条蛛丝马迹的说），很快就走到尽头，一顶绿色的大帐篷外几个工人不知道在忙碌些什么，一个黑脸汉子笑嘻嘻的说：“小姑娘，怎么又回来了？”我们道明来意后他笑道：“不错嘛，还真找对地方了！”原来，在大帐篷的后面还别有一番洞天，小径继续向冰川延伸着，我俩大喜。可是好景不长，约2分钟后，眼前已经无路可寻，又是大片大片的坍塌，看来摸摸冰川还得颇费一翻周折呢。我们轮换着在前面开道，跌跌撞撞继续走向冰川……
终于，冰川踩到了我的脚下，摸一摸，冰凉浸骨。又于没有专业的装备，徒手攀冰难度加大，好不容易走到蓝色冰花那时，我们已经冻得两手发紫。能在冰川的怀抱里感受着它幽幽散发着的寒气，我们忍不住大叫起来，没想到不远处一声巨响，一大块冰川坍塌开来，吓得我们一下子噤若寒蝉，也许雪山就是这样对猥亵者发出警告的吧。
与进来时的一帆风顺相比，回去可谓一路艰辛一路坎坷，历经了N次迷路才终于走上正道，其间对沙质、土质、石质等各种质地的山体的进行了突击强化攀登训练，苦不堪言，甚至一度让我产生了登顶的冲动。
回到明永都七点多了，他们三人已经先一步闪人，甩下我们自谋出路。原来那家小旅店因为有活佛大驾，我们已经首当其冲的列入清理门户的名单中。虽有辆出租车要回去，但是那师傅却以活佛御用司机身份向我们勒索150两银子。也罢，我们只好到河边一家还没开张的小野店借住一宿，全自助式的，连床板床垫都是我们一样样扛进去的。而且，……，是在恐惧中度过了一个不眠之夜。
8月9日梅里RPG 全攻略（4）
尾声出来时发现雪山已经完完全全隐藏在了浓雾中，就象是不曾存在过一样，山间也是大雾弥漫，让我们已经分不清哪里是天哪里是云。回到升平镇五人汇合后，刚好遇到一辆由于滇藏公路塌方折回中甸的三菱越野，就很腐败的享受了一次进口车优越的性能，唯一感受就是来时艰险的路段都“不过如此”。
没能在走时再看看梅里姐姐万种的风情，也算是个小小的遗憾，但是比起绝大多数人来说我已经很满足了，收拾好在这里拾到的乱七八糟的心情和感受，挥挥衣袖默默给雪山最后一次告别，有点惆怅。
FAQ
关于标题《梅里RPG—— 全攻略》？
一直总是觉得梅里之行不象是单纯的旅游，因为这一路上搀杂了好多别的东西，有的写了有的也没写出来，一路上发生的都是出乎意料的计划外突发事件，像游戏般充满了刺激与挑战。
还有个重要原因是在明永的时候，一个村民曾经对我说了这么一句话：“小姑娘，你知道吗？我们村最近发生了件惊天动地的大事，洪水就要来了，我们齐心协力把家从岸遍搬到了高处。”这感觉，像极了游戏中的NPC通用语言，一下就深深震动了我，真有回到游侠时代的感觉。
关于篇名套用余秋雨先生的书名？
虽然有侵权嫌疑，但是却和我的内容贴切极了，就实在忍不住“拿来主义”了。虽然余先生还有部大作《文化苦旅》，但太高深的书名不懂就别乱来了。
ps： 回到中甸，在旅行者俱乐部住下，身心疲惫、心力憔悴等等词语都是我当时最好的写照，晚上就一直在壁炉边上坐着，看酒吧里穿梭着的红男绿女，看墙上的张张地图，给灵魂放了个假。
8月10日做客藏家
昨夜的雨还在淅淅沥沥下个没完，原本计划今天去白水台和碧塔海，却又是因为塌方而取消。塌方、塌方、塌方，神经都快被这两个字折磨断了，走到哪它都阴魂不散。在旅店的图书室窝了一上午，看了一堆又一堆过客留下的照片，而且这里还有很多不错的旅游和地理杂志，
好不容易盼到中午雨过天晴的一刻，师傅说带我们去一个有意思的地方——神仙洞，呵呵，没听说过吧？那是当然，因为这实在是个无趣的小洞，用我们的话来说“一个很微妙的小洞”。 Where?就在草原上一座无趣的小丘陵上，权当锻炼身体吧，把洞上上下下转了一遍，感觉主要是来陪师傅上上香来的，他说在洞口拜神仙很灵验。
不过无所谓，“精彩在后头”，盼望了好久的事情马上就要变现了，那就是去师傅家做客，这可是老早就和他说好的，谁都不可以反悔。虽然这些日子去过一些藏族的帐篷，但那都不是地道的藏民家，一心想要看看真正普通藏民的生活。今天终于盼到师傅亲自出马，帮我们达成所愿。
他家不在县城里（要在的话我们也就没那么激动了），而是在附近一个小村庄里。远远的就看到一幢白色的藏式小楼在大片草甸中甚是打眼。一进家门，就感受到了浓郁的藏族气息，哈达挂满了柱子，家具，壁毯也多是清一色的藏式。
师傅其实早看穿了我们的心思，把我们拉到炉边坐下后很快就端出来一大堆好东东，全是藏家常吃的小吃，有新鲜的牦牛奶，有酸酸的奶酪，暖暖的酥油茶，还有一个长得和沙琪玛差不多但是味道更胜一筹的小食品（名字忘掉了）。我们也没和师傅客气，敞开了痛快的吃，吃到最后来我们还一度担心牦牛会不会被我们喝死掉。
公路的抢修也不知道要何时才结束，我们是没有钱再等了，大家决定了明天直接去虎跳峡啦，剩下的景点，留给下次吧。吃完后我们出来最后一次逛了中甸的大街，给师傅11岁的小女儿买了份小礼物，想着马上就到的徒步穿越，我可是没敢给自己买东西，减轻不必要的负重嘛。
一天就是这么荒谬的过去了，明天我们又将一段新的流浪。
8月11日徒步虎跳
醒来第一件事情就是去看天，郁闷的是还在没完没了的滴答，而且还有不断发扬光大的趋势，心情隐隐有点不安。大家明显情绪低落，默默收拾好行李就匆匆上了车。坐在司机后面，我都没心情看风景了，两眼直勾勾地盯着刮雨器忙碌的工作，除了祈祷，也没什么更好的办法。
路上还发生了个小插曲呢，客车刚出中甸，就被警车拦下，几个警察叔叔手持冲锋枪，咆喉着冲上车来，以扫射的动作对着我们，下面荷枪实弹的警察把客车团团围住。 （哇塞！像在拍警匪片，暴酷）车厢里气氛紧张起来，也不知身上哪个器官和某位通缉犯JJ形似或神似，反正他们是很重点照顾的对我身份证进行了一翻考证。
到了桥头一打听，二十八道拐正忙着落石，据说今天都没有敢过去。 （后来从那边下来的人给我们证实了这只是个谣传）等吗？夏季的天空总是难以止住它的哭泣，而口袋中的银两提醒着我们，时间就是金钱。大家商量了半天，想了个妥协方案，跳过28道拐，从本地湾直接上高路，就这样彻底把我徒步穿越峡谷的梦想毁灭了。
在大雨中穿越峡谷应该是完全别样的感受吧，反正我也没大晴天走过，没发言权，但是雨中的虎跳峡把大自然野性的美挥洒得淋漓尽致。在雨中直面金沙江磅礴气势，涌上心头的绝对是种英雄气概，耳边风声雨声变成了古战场上的马蹄声厮杀声，赤膊上阵横刀立马好不痛快。
刚上路就迷路，几轮探路都铩羽而归，前方的确是无路可循呀，怪哉。还好遇到了个纳西小伙帮我们指点了迷津，原来山路早被淤泥淹没了。强行从上面趟过，鞋子变得一塌糊涂，同时由于没有采取防雨措施（伞在这时候根本派不上用场），不一会雨水就浸透我全身每一寸肌肤，就这么在山路上踉踉跄跄的前行，深一脚浅一脚的踩到了“half way”。老板很麻利的帮我们收拾出一炉炭火，还端上热茶，感动得我差点就热泪盈眶了。
今天这里就住了一对情侣和一个发誓要住遍虎跳峡沿线所有旅店的大叔，听他们说前面不容乐观，从Tina's到核桃园一段无论是公路还是“一线天”都在塌方，再继续往前是一点机会都没有，他们就是被迫折回。那位大叔激情洋溢的给我们发表了一番演讲，想说服我们就此打住。最后，他还是失败了，哈哈，不过当时真的好害怕那几个家伙意志不够坚定！照例起程前我们参观了那久仰大名的“天下第一厕”，只差没亲身体验一下“飞流直下三千尺”的感觉。
Half way 到Tina's的路还不错，中间还可以从瀑布中穿过，让晶莹划过全身，有飘飘欲仙去感觉。 （其实当时腿像灌铅一样沉，根本飘不起来，但还是那么稍微想了一下）山间云雾缭绕，我们走得稍微远点就看不见彼此，战线拉得很长。感觉自己从一团云中走出，又走向另外一团，累的时候就鼓起勇气踮踮脚，看看对面峡谷和下面几乎已经看不到的金沙江，心理有点紧张有点害怕还有点得意。
很快到达某山的顶峰，俯览江山，稍微享受了一下“高处不胜寒”的滋味。后面就一直是下山路，这对我那双只适合于散步的休闲鞋的确是残酷的考验，有时候甚至要半蹲着滑行，生怕重心稍微高一点就会堕下悬崖粉身碎骨。就这么一路摔到了Tina's。
真的就像回到家，虽然我没来过，但是感觉这么熟悉这么自然，把包往客厅一扔，跑下去舒舒服服的洗了几天来最酣畅的一个热水澡。奇奇、莹莹和雯雯也陆陆续续从山上下来，有惊无险的样子。只是主席因为相机给掉在了half way，半路折了回去，可能会耽搁不少时间。
后来田阿姨告诉我们主席打电话过来说月黑风高他就现在那边住下，明天和我们汇合。那家伙，一个人躲起来奢侈腐败去了，不过我们也毫不示弱，狠很大吃了一顿，这里有必要强烈推荐一下田阿姨的手艺，尤其是宫爆鸡丁，真人间极品也。
晚上又有几队人马从上上下来，每一批人马都可以得到英雄般喝彩，Tina's热闹起来，大家都跑到对面石洞里去烘衣服，一大帮天南海北的年轻人和不年轻的人一边吃着完全DIY的烤土豆，一边热烈交换着路上的见闻，最兴奋的是我终于打听到了跨越塌方的第三条路线。不幸的是我的牛仔裤被我烤成了五分裤。
8月12日谷底听涛
也许是昨天真的累坏了，睡到了十点才醒来。然后就一直闲散的坐在客厅里，等候主席大驾。这是世界上最美妙的客厅，一壁的玻璃窗框住对面峡谷间变幻莫测的云雾，那种写意，荡气回肠。客厅的墙上贴满了各式各样古灵精怪的留言，至今我还记得这么两条：“mm，以前和你说好一起来虎跳峡，现在我已经到了，你呢？”“今天是大年初三，我的5岁生日，我和爸爸妈妈一起来，我很勇敢，田阿姨说我是来徒步的人中最小的一个……”忘记自己写了点什么，只记得当时真的很期待再次看到自己“当年”留下的痕迹，现在也是。
中午主席下来了，拉着向导的手，很是腐败。好在今天天气不错，正好下到江边玩玩。和昨天的艰苦卓越想比，这样好的路况足以让我笑到晕倒，而且还有向导指路。很快就到了听淘阁，其实就是个小草棚，有个女孩在那卖点小饰品。
这一次，我是真正贴近了金沙江，站在江边，一不小心巨浪袭来，全身湿透。凝视江面，思绪随波涛汹涌，金戈铁骑万马奔腾，天地间一切都在刹那间消失。由于几天大雨江水猛涨，本来想跳上虎跳石的愿望落空。关于虎跳石，还有个美丽的传说，当年一只母老虎带着自己的孩子一路逃到江边，后面追兵将至，前面却是走投无路，母虎为了自己的孩子，一跃入江化作一块巨石，让小老虎从踩着自己身体跃到对岸，方才逃过一截，虎跳峡因而得名。
沿着江走到了“一线天”，目睹了塌方的惨状，彻底死心。原路返回Tina's，田阿姨带来了个好消息：公路已经开始抢修了，要今天晚上不下雨明天过去应该没什么问题。于是我们又是一番大吃大喝的庆祝，坚决贯彻“把腐败进行到底”的指导思想。这也是最后一次享受Tina's美味的机会了，我是这样安慰自己的。
8月13日惊魂一日
又是我第一个起来，心血来潮跑去探路。塌方地段大约100多米，在远处观望了一阵，几乎没有落石，过去应该不算困难。那我先“以身试法”一下吧，我不下地狱谁下地狱，壮着胆子往前走，刚没两步，“啪！”一块和脑袋差不多大的石头坠落在面前，吓得我魂飞胆破掉头就跑，不知道这算不算山神爷爷给我的警告。
心有余悸的又张望了半天，仍然是风平浪静一派乐观的景象，那就再搏一把吧。这次运气不错，很快就过了一半多，可是到了拐弯处，也就是泥石流的重灾区时，情况不妙，一个闪失就两脚陷进淤泥，像沼泽一样下沉，一直没到膝盖，无论怎么用劲双脚都纹丝不动，这次是真切感受了一回“心有余而力不足”。正在着急，开始刮风，伴随小雨。山上开始大面积落石，四处噼里啪啦砸得我心惊胆寒，自己却是动弹不得，我绝望得大哭起来。也许在这样的紧急关头，人的能量可以爆发到极限（这就是所谓的“小宇宙”吧），反正就是一瞬间，居然神奇的把脚拔了出来，虽然鞋还是很固执的弃我而去。赤着脚穿过石雨一路连滚带爬的回到安全地带，还好捡回了一条小命，据说最近这条公路由于塌方已经砸死了好几个人呢，感谢活佛，感谢雪山！
忘记自己是怎么精神恍惚的走回Tina's，只记得趴在床上大哭了一场——以此纪念我和死亡的这次亲密接触，现在想起，都觉脊柱飕飕发凉。
将近10点，我第三次站到这里，确是感慨良多。天虽是放晴了一点，但落石却有增无减。论证了半天，还是决定启用第三套应急方案，那就是：低处不好过，咱就往高处走，天无绝人之路嘛。话倒是说得轻巧，一提到要翻山越岭，我都有头大的感觉，这些日子一直在山中穿梭，虽是大饱眼福，腿却是想要罢工了，牢骚归牢骚，还是早点收拾好背包上路吧。
和前几天相比，今天这段路还算比较轻松。唯一比较严重的地方就是那片塌方区的上部，脚下的土石不住往下掉，路面几乎都和水平垂直，估计一个踩空就玩完。向导一直在后面保护主席安危，我只好咬咬牙在前面开路，其实心里紧张得要命，一路上把边上的野草野花折磨惨了，因为用力过度，好多植物就这么活生生的被我连根拔起，了此一生。无限风光在险峰，这道理在者里也通用，危险区过后，在两山交接的地方，青山翠柏之中，晶莹剔透的瀑布从天而降，一派幽静淡泊，和下面大浪淘沙的金沙江如此对比鲜明的气质，让我想起了紫龙在站在五老峰山巅上长发飘飘的镜头。胡乱想着，前世今生，不知道有没有世外高人在此结庐而居。
在我的带领下，下山再次迷路，七七八八折腾了两个多小时，终于越过了这片200米不到的塌方，回头看看，Tina's安静的沐浴在阳光中。
本想走到渡口去，但是怕来不及赶上大具回丽江的班车，只好打的，什么的？当然拖拉机是也。最有趣的是，发动时，猛的一颠，主席直接给甩了下去，还好我救了他，结果是他老人家那160斤的肥硕身躯直接掉我“细嫩”的胳膊上，在风中摇荡，痛得我眼泪都掉了下来，就这么一边哭一边和他们三个一起狂笑，周围还有一帮子的小孩子个个都笑得直不起腰来，主席气得嘴巴鼻子拧成一块，坐在地上发脾气不原起来。好说歹说把他劝了起来，他却因祸得福在我们几个红红的眼睛注视下光明正大的上了驾驶室。怎么说这也是我在拖拉机上的处女秀，却落得如此悲惨的开场，半个胳膊有红变青，再由青变紫，足足半个月我没敢穿无袖的衣服。
一路上可把我们颠得够呛，下车时我都有尾锥骨裂开的感觉。然后穿越一个小村庄，渡江，又是一个小村庄。很纯粹的田园风光，很安静，美中不足就是村前村后，大狗小狗。当时就想躺在草地上不起来，看蓝天看白云，一直看到星星的笑脸。就这么从中午一直走到傍晚，终于找到车带我们回丽江。
高原夏天的夜晚还是寒冷的，我穿着T恤羡慕的望着窗外丽江的小姑娘裹着大衣。一路上我都迷迷糊糊睡了过去，只是记得漫山遍野的大雾看得我眼睛皮直往下耷拉。这些日子，几乎每天都在动荡中度过，用雯雯的话来说，我们不是来旅游的，简直就是来“自虐”。虽然有点害怕，但是更多的是惊喜，在历经艰险后，看到的完全是别人看不到的、属于自己的那道最独特的风景，我想这就是最让我迷恋的东西，。但是现在，探险游戏结束了，我们正驶向个安逸之地——丽江。
8月14日——8月17日丽江古城
Off-topic:
丽江，要从13日的晚上说起，因为那时候我到了古城。
丽江古城大研镇，只是丽江的一部分，据说它的新城规划得相当不错，但是我只是路过时匆匆一瞥，完全没有概念。
还是回到主题——丽江古城。
从安静的青石板上高高低低的踩过，洒下一个暗淡的背影。一身的尘、一脸的灰，在满街的红男绿女当中穿梭，若隐若现的融入暮色，漫无目的。古城九曲十八弯，一次次把我绕回了起点，想起了《无间道》中：“流浪在灯火阑珊处去不到终点回到原点享受那走不完的路既然没终点回到原点我想我们都不在乎”。 （当然是现在想到的了…hoho）夜深了，古城剥下艳丽的面纱，别有种孤寂的美，有点沧桑有点落魄，和我的心情有点像。
同伴失去联络，身上最后十几块钱在大石桥边的小吃店里挥霍一空，手臂上的伤在这样的夜里像愤怒的火焰一样张狂起来，除了“欲哭无泪”外，我甚至寻觅不出更加生动可人的表情。
从安静的青石板上高高低低的踩过，洒下一串沉重的脚印。一家家的敲开沿街各色客栈，见到的是一张张桃花笑靥轻摇玉手，勿怪世风淡薄，无奈人家力不从心，要不怎么解释刚才满城的欢腾呢。看着一只只从眼前漂过的河灯，我问自己难道真要在柳树下听一夜河水的叮叮咚咚的演奏吗？似乎没有体力去如此浪漫。最后，一个好心的老婆婆收留了我。三房一照壁，很漂亮的小院子，在一间没有窗户的小屋子里，昏昏沉沉的睡去，背包里衣服洒了一地。不记得这是不是个有星星的夜。
十点钟，起床、洗衣服、出门。老婆婆告诉我“顺水而入,逆水而出”。一夜的休整精神大振，从青石板上踩过，轻快而流畅。很快在四方街上觅到同伴那几个熟悉的身影，嫉妒的问起他们昨晚睡得可好，没想到几人也是一肚苦水，他们投宿的小客栈昨晚发生了斗殴事件，引来警察叔叔折腾到天亮，现在也是无家可归四处流浪。我埋下头暗自奸笑了几声，说：“好兄弟，咱们昨晚已经有难同当了，现在就有福同享去。”言罢，一顿肆无忌惮的胡喝海吃，丽江的好处就在这里，美味无穷无尽无休无止。
回去取回行李，抱着一堆湿搭搭的衣服满城寻觅新居，还好他们原来那家老板给我们介绍了另一家小客栈——余家花园，和昨天住过的阿婆家是一式的纳西民居，一式的小庭院，还多了一条满院翻腾的小狗。屋檐下几个年轻人和老板正热火朝天的聊着天，一切都定格在一个很自然的瞬间，我一眼就选定了它。老板特别热心肠，给我和雯雯安排了一间“总统套房”，这间干净整洁的小阁楼，推开窗，远处的山近处的城，尽收眼底。 （后来偶然知道，在下面和老板聊天的那帮年轻人当中，居然有个是我在网上认识的朋友——巴斯驴，由于时间原因没有一起上路，没想到却在这里碰上，真是感叹世界之小，可惜当时大家没认出来。）
钱包日渐消瘦，它已经没办法支持我们去泸沽湖、去玉龙雪山，就每天无所事事的在丽江过着腐败但不奢侈的生活，简单的说，在这里你就是活着，单纯的活着，时空交错的活着，无拘无束的活着，没有日程，没有方向，而且没有钱。
曾经在一份印在牛皮纸上的手绘地图上读到“在丽江古城的必须要做大十件大事”，具体是什么忘记了，但是我想借用一下这种方式记录一下在丽江的种种。
排名不分先后。
1 民以食为天。就从吃说起吧，大石桥下有家“黄豆面”味道真的很棒，我在丽江“最后的晚餐”就义无返顾的选择了这里。街头的丽江粑粑、鸡豆凉粉……太多了我就不一一列举了，反正“地球人都知道了”。
2 在四方街上任选一个方向，顺着它“向前、向前、向前”，湿湿的青石板的可以把你引到古城的心脏。幽幽的巷道，安静得可以凝固住时间的流逝，偶而一声狗吠都可以在空间划开一串涟漪。这这里，已经不需要去思考什么，只要去感觉，用心去感觉就够了。
3 从猜字壁开始学习东巴文。虽然只是点皮毛，但是表达我的热情已经足矣。为了打听自己名字的写法，走访了大半古城，制作东巴饰品的小店不少，但是每次他们都回答我说：“等我回去问问师傅吧。”这里他们所谓的师傅，就是丽江为数不多的几个研究东巴文的老专家。
4 最得意的，就是拜师学了门小小的手艺。在一家小木器店里泡了一天，对木器的上色也算是略有小成，看着自己DIY出来的牙签盒，再雕上俺的东巴名，回家送给已经没多少牙齿的爷爷，看这他呵呵的笑开了，颇由几分成就感。
5 记得那“十大要事”中有一个是到万古楼去听鸟鸣，在一个阳光灿烂的下午，我站在了这座楼上，竖起耳朵，却是满山的狗吠，不禁菀尔。俯视全城，大片的青砖黑瓦，沿袭了中国古民居一贯压抑的风格，帝王在这里是永远看不到屋檐下平凡人家的痛苦与快乐，他们欢喜的只是在此眺望自己的权力罢了。
6 去了木府，不为别的，就是看在《鹿鼎记》的份上，混在旅游团中偷偷听着木氏家族的种种传奇佳话，感叹当地人对木王爷的崇拜，一棵弯腰的松树都可以想出个鸡犬升天的故事。漫无边际的想着韦小宝和他的小郡主，甚至远到吴三桂和他的陈圆圆，搭配着傻傻的笑。
7 本来是怀着个高尚的初衷前去欣赏纳西古乐，对我们这些匆匆过客而言，“此曲只应天上有，人间难得几回闻”。到最后发现自己更加喜欢的是听宣科爷爷说笑话，和里面绝大多数人一样，我迟钝的神经恐怕是永远体会不到古乐的妙蔓之处，唯一收获就是用手机录了一段古乐当作起床闹钟，让它每天6：35准时在寝室想起。
8 夜里，窝在酒吧里打牌，偷偷听着邻座男孩门讨论着西藏的见闻，除了羡慕就是嫉妒，悄悄幻想将来的某一天自己站在珠峰顶上，俯览地球，然后笑掉大牙。
9 到布林农去看铜铃，叮叮当当敲了半天后买回了一个最沙哑的，每次敲打，都可以闻到空气中马蹄踏过尘土飞扬的味道。
10 发现四方街上一家很不错的小书店,里面都是我喜欢的书，开心！
... ...
8月18日——8月19日归途
离开丽江，回到昆明，然后回家。
如此简洁，也许有点虎头蛇尾，但不可否认归途实在是个无聊的话题，一个交换种种交通工具的过程罢了，权且用它做个尾声吧。
早就想写点什么了，但是因为自己偷懒一直没有动笔，还好及时意识到回忆正在一点点褪色这个残酷的事实。对我而言，写下这份游记更像是在抢救文化遗产，起码对我来说这是无比珍贵的东西。要走的路还很长很长，艰难险阻一切未知，但是我想我会继续走，在快乐的名义下。 （不好意思，今天刚看了《南方周末》朱总理的专刊，脑海里盘旋的都是他在就职演说时那动人心弦的几句话，不自觉的就套用了过来）
等60年后，我可以自豪的对自己说：“你曾经年轻过！”这就足够了。
感谢我的四个可爱同伴。
不知道下一次上路是什么时候？
Expect ing
全文完枇杷大作！
By: pippa
