(Yunnan ---- Notes from September 1, 1999 - 14 days)
September 1 morning 8:50 Shanghai via Kunming, Lijiang, arrived at 1:30 in the afternoon.
A newly arrived in the ancient city of Lijiang by the driver pointing at the entrance easily be found in the ancient city of Mississippi Lane International Youth Hostel. Began to settle down a little after my trip to Lijiang.
Before their departure have done some planning and travel arrangements, only to enter such a strange and mysterious town at that moment suddenly find there is no need what so-called itinerary. Sui-hing, but should make their own actions, there may be more of an unexpected bonus.
Leaving the hotel one of the best places to go online "legend" has a large dog cafe in Prague. Exposure in Prague in the layout of such a home-style atmosphere, can not help but have a little regret not having the election settled here. Sure enough, there is a shop is not even a year old but the shape has been the big dogs barking gigantic bear. Fortunately, such a seemingly ferocious "monster" is surprisingly tame temperament, often Shenqingziruo haughty disregard of others in the room, pacing up and down outside the house.
Ordered a sandwich and a cup of Cappuccino, read just emerged from a wood shop to buy hand-painted map of Lijiang, across the street suddenly close window watching the street suddenly sparse populations. Haunted house with soft music, life, was able to become so relaxed in the twinkling of an eye as much as some of Manasarovar untrue.
Walk aimlessly wandering the streets in the ancient city, the strange but not a trace of panic. Dayan old city as if originally made to order for those easy to get lost here for visitors to enjoy the fun. Strolling along the famous Square Street, and occasionally we saw the rise of another "legend" in place - Lost Horizon, will be under the auspices of Naxi ancient music. Bought tickets for a concert the following day, preparing to cultivate himself some, but Lost Horizon, it is like to see it, and as early as the Internet have heard numerous kinds of mixed view. Perhaps only after the first-hand experience in order to truly understand the background herein by Come on.
September 2 Naxi ancient music to tell the truth I really do not understand an individual, saw a group of already over fifty elderly people sit on stage with costumes and a half hours, there is no music scores, alone with memories of deductive one after another in the first song, will give you a strange moving and shocking, as if placed in your eyes of such a greater extent, in terms of performance is a miracle in a real place. Vivid performances or not, professional or not, has no accountability, no need for a tall order.
Xuan Ke's style is difficult to use one word to describe his chair to play a largely improvised, and his understanding of Naxi ancient music and interpretation of reality dissatisfaction with the mockery of the Japanese nation, as well as the lack of inside information on some of the "dabbler "disdain and contempt of mankind does have its brilliant and unique. No matter how much others comments, I'd appreciate him insist. Some say he arrogant, some say he was eloquent, but ultimately the end of his trying to protect the Naxi ancient music recommendation and, after all, was on the brink of a lost culture. From such a layer of sense that we should not be qualified to comment on him.
Out of the ancient music club is 10:00, and walked the old stone road through the Square Street of the crowd on the carpet, they inadvertently passed through a hand-drawn map was bought yesterday, between the wood shop. The owner is an old man wearing a turban rather personality, always sitting in a chair with carved wood root carving. Came in and sat sitting. After some small talk, nothing to boast about the accident find such a person actually footprints all over the steps of the world's many countries have studied different ethnic cultures. And this time he is still far away in Hunan, his wife and children bid farewell to his family and come alone to Lijiang into a different culture of a lost art - Dongba culture, a living here for three years. He also said that Tibetan culture has been very interested in understanding, ready to leave in October after the whereabouts of Tibet's Ali Prefecture, as to how long is this going he has hardly any.
September 3 in Shenzhen afternoon roommate roommate rented two bicycles together to go to a small village near Lijiang - Su Kawamura. Usually takes about 45 minutes to arrive. After many apple orchards along the way, next to a sign in all on end: Apple familiar, welcome pick. We can not help but stop to buy a few apples quench their thirst and ask the way, apple is a prime Kawamura of the sisters who, in their enthusiastic again pointing the way we ride in the next ten minutes or reach the village.
Su Kawamura - the term used to describe what it does, a bit like the paradise described in Tao Yuan-ming. Neatly ordered houses, bridges streams; distant peaks and continuously, near cattle and sheep scattered habitat on farmland trails. Share of tranquility and harmony and the whole village is surrounded by a thick, there is not packed with tourists, nor many of the numerous shops, but did not see Inn hotels. I even subconsciously give birth to a trace of "hardship", afraid of a few years later If we embark on this path will see a second Lijiang. See the guide holding a small flag behind him followed by a group of red hat, yellow hat tourists, so what the scene would be sad then? !
Now I am sitting in my hotel downstairs to a small coffee museum, a cup of coffee in Yunnan Province, imagine what tomorrow's trip will be a different story. Just outside the train station to buy a ticket tomorrow morning Quwang Lugu Lake. Bought it yesterday due to a "no father and husband of the country? "The author is a people called the Zhou Huashan, he had spent time in the Lugu Lake area for one year, the Moso culture, seemed to understand very thoroughly before we read a few chapters felt this should be worth seeing a good书. Had also read a few articles on the Internet has brought him and the "lake thinking tea," the masters of Tang Bin and Yang Bamboo his wife organized a fund used to support the education of mountain children from poor families, a pity that he had already left Yunnan, miss never met.
September 4 the way to go fairly far from the lake. Pakistan ride from Lijiang for about five hours to Daning Lang, in addition to three Hungarians, a Hong Kong car full of girls and me, all the local people. Daning Lang after the transfer to the Lugu Lake, this time only five of us tourists on board. Road is very bad to go, a total of 3 to flip over the mountains, most of his time traveling on the winding mountain road. Some sections are landslides and mudslides occur, and good scrappy way to reach the lake.
Ms. Huang, in the car chatting with their peers, because she is not as I have visitors in Hong Kong on several occasions when contact with the Huashan Mountain Yoshinori weeks of work, and now finally up to taste what it wants, to the mountains for three months Yongning to teach the work of righteousness. The arrangements for her trip and was in charge of receiving the "lake thinking" of the Tang Bin, so I also thought her stay at the lake. See Tang Bin and Yang Zhu, probably from their own behavior revealed by the share of indifferent and casual, will be reminiscent of the "no traces Tianya", "Shenxianjuanlv" These martial arts novel vocabulary.
And Ms. Huang had a bowl under one person to fill his stomach, listening to her, and Tang Bin chatting about the situation of mountain children, from their mouths for the first time I learned that poverty-stricken areas to truly benefit all the children out of school experiences. To see inside the house there is a billboard nominated as "the children", close to the true one by one photo. Dilapidated school buildings, poor classroom (if you can call it the classroom it), as well as a photo of Zhang pure and innocent face, and every one Yoshinori have written text real and very sad, really Some food is not palatable. Like Tang Bin, Zhou Huashan, Ms. Wong and many, many do not know the name of the people, they have done apart from the subsidy money, more people is their sincere admiration and enthusiasm, and thick enough to let an outsider have been deeply for each infection and deeply touched. Tang Bin said he heard the same concern, and several other children's education problems of mountain people are paid set of financial and human resources to prepare the establishment of a student anti-poverty website, so that want to support school children's interested parties may wish to achieve through this web site.
September 5 Lugu Lake area the past few days has been overcast and rainy weather, at noon, and Ms. Huang Yan-two people walk around the lake has encountered a Mosuo shore fishermen go fishing, so he Zhu Caochuan ferry ride across the lake The residents in the village to see. Seemingly not be far off the other side actually spent more than two hours before that Xu is a three-person crew a slurry is indeed quite laborious crossing. Fortunately, boatman was very talkative Mosuo people along the way to tell us the story of some of the Mosuo people and his own life, family situation sounds pretty bleak. He has five children, a seven thanks to his fishing income to support a person, no doubt his children are always out of school.
Rigby Lake Village is an extension built on a total of only 22 people in small villages. The villagers were very friendly. Resolved to find a family lunch, we have around the house a warm fireplace to dry the body coat, at the same time fell into the water with several small villages to the Mosuo girls chat.
Outside the rain has not stopped, we sat outside of the corridor at the broken sofa a daze. Lake close by, Moso village houses are all built by one of the root sleepers. See more cities in the steel and concrete, and now in order to better understand what is meant by reverting to simplicity. Hill behind the house set off several more to make people feel a kind of unreal, or that of their own camp mediocre suddenly from the environment and way of life into such a Jingde can hear, see where your heart, as if needed there is a "period of adaptation." In fact, this has been really would like to sit there until the "forced" to leave, after all, there are many way to go, there are a lot of "last resort."
September 6 car in winding mountain road bypass, when leaping out of the Lugu Lake vision of the moment, suddenly sour nose, perhaps subconsciously, like Ms. Huang is to imagine a period of time to do justice to teach the children to do for the mountains anything other than the mountains, scarce water and electricity, the difficult living conditions, is definitely a person's perseverance and will of the considerable challenges and tests. After all, talk about easy, you really want to experience day by day is really no guarantee that he will not retreat. It is precisely because of this, I especially admire those who will teach their peers who did justice is very easy.
Some before and after dinner, then finally back to Lijiang, in the parking lot outside the driver provided with a good car, with the same three hotels in Guangzhou playmate prepared to join tomorrow's chartered by the Tiger Leaping Gorge, Zhongdian Quwang two days.
September 7 morning 8:00 start for about two hours to reach the tiger jumped. Encountered by mountain landslides, their cars and not the past, our party of four that started off the trip on foot Tiger Leaping Gorge. In fact, Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot most of those who truly have the two fixed routes and fixed two-day trip, but for no good strength and perseverance, and I think finally I am afraid, is far greater than the suffering of fun.
Get off, carefully flip over the rocks pestle, a big half-hour walk along the mountain reached the Woody Woody's Guest House of the store. Hired a local to make a mountain guide, and she led us through the mountain road down to the riverside. The river here are enormous differences in fast-flowing. Dang that scene torrent Diego is born Wang Wei. The return path is just up the hill almost makes me a little, "bitterly painful" feeling, in the previous down the steep mountain can not be felt when. Along the mud. Way stop-go, almost forgot how to breathe we go.
September 8 Zhongdian - Shangri-La Grand Canyon, according to La Prairie (Napahai)
In fact, the so-called Shangri-La Gorge has its own name - Bi melt Canyon. Has not actually like to use the "Shangri-La" is the word to describe the Diqing. Every place everywhere where the extension of sites has its own long-name, even if a few apply the "Shangri-La" is also mostly in order to cater to the tastes of tourists in order to attract more tourists, business tools Bale. I think where you are most comfortable freehand, where is the Shangri-la, do not have to waste effort to find the real Shangri-la In fact, in your heart.
Zhongdian gave me the greatest feeling, the deepest impression is its vast grasslands and groups of cattle, the kind of broad and atmosphere will be filled to spill into your eyes. When the car driving on the winding mountain road, looked around you could see large tracts of grassland, almost people feel the beauty of suffocation. Was the kind of momentum, the kind of bold invisibly plague, all the time does not remind you of how insignificant human beings.
By La Prairie as a tourist attraction in terms of recommendation, in fact, those other than an obscure grassland there is no much difference, multi-only visitors with horses, and a difficult to conceal the taste out of business. On the contrary, from the grasslands along the way through the unknown photo shoot but must be true and much more. Do not need to tinker with one or more selected King, anywhere viewing a painting is a landscape photo.
September 9 by 9 o'clock on the morning of Zhongdian, Dali, Shimonoseki to the bus at 17:00 arriving in Dali, and found love on the road at the Four Seasons Inn.
Inn built in a typical Bai residential premises, the hospital all the flowers into the head, the Gallery pavilion put many wooden tables and chairs, as well as a ping-pong sets, was very thoughtful. Environmental quiet elegance, it is suitable for meditation when a person's enjoyment of leisure time, or memories of travel in the past. A large wooden table at night坐在院子里a cup of tea, with chat from all over the playmate had some exchange of their own along the horizons not bear to think whether there are more leisurely than that of life.
September 10 morning, a car to go Shaping Zhen Four Seasons Inn, every Monday, "Shaping Market" is the Bai people's market day, the locals will be with a wide range of goods to the Shaping Zhen go to the market. Things varied, from the food we eat, use, and play to wear, wear, as well as various half-truths of small antiques, ethnic clothing and accessories. Very local characteristics.
Shaping the way back from a Dali through hi chou chen, greet the driver to stop, a man walked into a small town inhabited by the Bai ethnic group. Here the construction of the Bai ethnic characteristics have a very thick, ancient and solemn. To stroll in the town blazing, almost everywhere you want to step on each piece of slate, he would travel lane for each one to capture the simplicity everywhere, could not suppress their curiosity, we often push to gain access into people's House of thin-grade part of the culture of another nation, while the Bai people's friendliness and enthusiasm have already resolved the previous "non-invited into" associated with embarrassment.
The afternoon, "Accord" is still so quiet, it is located in洋人街(protect the country road) and Po-ai Road corner of the gallery cafe, I almost became a daily must-visit places. Store layout is not very refined wooden table sat in the window, point a glass of very ordinary Yunnan coffee, take a look at the book, send a daze. The reason is because the street can also enjoy the洋人街on the busy shuttle of the crowd mixed with tourists and locals suddenly suddenly thinning dense to weave a picture on another ... ...
3:20 pm at hand stood a ticket back to Lijiang, a sudden birth of regret at having left. Perhaps the past few days, the days of stay in Dali, Yunnan tour the entire period of the most leisure time freehand. Although its name did not go to appreciate the Shimonoseki heard so much about the wind, the closed flowers, snow and Erhai Cangshan month, but he is not regret it. Even from the day around the corner, even if reluctant to part, it has nothing to do "romantic" the.
Last night, the marble of a night under the rain, and today even fortunate enough to be my departure with a faint ray of sunshine in the afternoon to leave the ... ...
PS: "Accord" in two Yunnan girl left me the same very deep impression on him. In the store put a JAZZ, chat with them absolutely pure and simple is another kind of happiness. A Jing also warmly invited me to attend her wedding in March next year, she will marry Bai is a young wedding will also be held in the form of traditional Bai. Maybe I would really consider to join.
September 12 arrived last night at six in Lijiang, is the third into the ancient city. Still living in Mississippi Lane, an international youth hostels.
Lane, go straight downhill along the Mississippi, not far from the wood shop in the corner every afternoon, one or two o'clock, there was a fire-sheng Naxi mother always made her grilled-er block, Kao Yumi small businesses. Looks like an ordinary oval-er block with her San Liangxia to a roast, and then coated with a thin layer of hot pepper sauce tastes excellent! Sitting opposite her shop, she was an upper level to a grilled, always I can not stop. Finally with a fragrance overflowing Kao Yumi to leave.
Coincides with the square went to Square Street on the bonfire party. It is a tape recorder through the old section after section of the speakers stood Naxi music, a group of local Naxi women dressed in national costume Inspired by very simple steps of the bonfire turn around the central plaza ah turn, continue to tourists to join their team. Slowly into two laps, three times, sit around the stage while watching can not help but think of drowning in the village of Lugu Lake to participate in the bonfire party. In contrast, Square Street to be inferior to a lot. Moso men's melodious whistle all the more true and blend, as Moso with the young girl singing in antiphonal style is to win applause.
Is such an evening stroll aimlessly in the "Little Paris" bar the door faced the last tour of Shenzhen prime Kawamura playmate and a few other friends from Hong Kong, Kunming and Sichuan. Heliaohaoji with bottles of "Mary Sullivan" red wine (Yunnan's most famous home-made wine, taste, sweet but not greasy, not too high degree), brighter chatting late into the night.
Back to the hotel with a hint of tipsy, after tea downstairs, the television is being heard within the World Trade Center and the Pentagon were hit one after another to blow up terrorists hijacking the news one time unable to believe that the world is so uncertain of the . Side of the people are enjoying a leisurely holiday is almost going to forget the reality of the human, while the other side of the foot but is experiencing a nightmare disaster. This is an unknown life, just as people can not predict the manner born, as no one can predict to leave; like another trip, but you can not expect different, "Gui Qi."
September 13 morning, slept a big Lanjue to 11 o'clock before going out Quwang Sun Yee On Street, the "Warriors of the Wind," coffee shop. The past two days because of their quiet little coffee shop, Xian Dan's style attracted me to patronize several times (it is also the owner of "Prague," the owner). Yesterday, here spend an entire afternoon, a cup of real Fresh orange juice, put a Nat King Cale of the CD, did not expect to find here, his CD, is also regarded as a big surprise. Lin Chuang of the table sat to write about things, seeing most of the Yu's "Qiannianyitan," so that time passes so slowly away from the hand to say this is definitely not a sad feeling the contrary, is another a meeting, a time can be excessive squandering satisfaction.
In the "Warriors of the Wind" to eat a simple breakfast meal, she decided to pull a small town not far from the city of Lijiang, take a look. Lashihai is there a small lake, picture postcard beautiful and strange, so I strongly want to go a trip, to find the truth behind it.
Walked around the ancient city at the entrance to a large waterwheel, to catch a Quwang truck pulling a small city half an hour or so it reached its destination. The driver pointing along a gravel-paved path toward the lake, roadsides are two rows of tall, I could not utter the name of a tree-lined trees, on both sides of a pack of harvest of Tahara scenery, distant heavily upon layer of mountains , mountain at the foot of several rows of white houses, is extremely simple. Because of distance and hazy and indistinct,
This path is very long, taking about 20 minutes to get to the lake. A wet meadow habitat with scattered seven or eight horses in robust shape rather, there is a high vigilance cattle, the lake is also a few boats at anchor, there are the locals asked me if I would like to come by boat around the lake lap to see, was I politely refuse a. He also does not have any resentment, only that they are not far from the resort, if there is a need to find that they can then carved away. Looked for a relatively dry grass to sit down, look around and discovered a week apart from 50 meters outside the resort, I was the only one visitors, with me only horses and old ox. Perhaps such a rainy-day afternoon, no genial sunshine, nor attract tourists to the "development project" was lucky enough to leave me with such a quiet and peaceful "small Taoyuan." Flash had to flash several times, recording this moment I think the most memorable time.
Back to Lijiang is dinner time, once again met downstairs in the hotel returned from Zhongdian trumpeter, he is one I frequented Shanghai Jazz & Blues Bar of the band members. This world is very small, remember that just arrived in Lijiang the next day, on the downstairs tea room to see him, this lunatic actually spent five days riding a mountain bike all the way from Kunming to Lijiang. Do not repeat it again two days riding to the Zhongdian. Found a place with a cup of tea, listening to him talk about seen and heard along the way, imagine that he saw another round of scenery, this mode of travel may be right for him is another fun bar.
September 14 trip to Yunnan, the last day of starting so early, finished packing to knot straight off, "Warriors of the Wind." Sitting in my old position, have another cup of coffee in Yunnan Province. Front of the window is not a busy street while away a new meaning in Yunnan, in Lijiang, the last few hours.
Sticking to bear to be inevitable. Thinking of the past two weeks, right here, all the while understanding not by much, but the people here left me the impression that indelible. 've Been to Dali, Lugu Lake, Zhongdian there at the foot of the ancient city of great research, people's life is not rich (especially the Lugu Lake area). Although the streets full of shops, but rarely seen eager to attract and vulgar philistine, have a distribution between idle and flat out honest. See more cities in the reality and utilitarian, the people set foot on this piece of land will produce a strange impression. Could it be that a highly developed civilization and pure and simple really is the original fish and bear's paw story?
..........................
Author: bealone
