Caiyunzhinan has always been a haven for romantic depth of travel. We are entering the Chinese New Year, from the Guangxi, Yunnan, and ride along the pristine, like villagers from the Southeast Yunnan Wenshan Autonomous Prefecture, went to the south of Ailaoshan area Zhuang people in the New Year, to one month, Yao, Hani, Yi, Miao stockade collecting folk songs, it's Spring comes early, we are fair-weather, strong breeze fragrance, and spent a pleasant folk 11 days.
Dayaoshan tiankeng clouds drift
Arrived in Nanning Zhifu more than 220 km away Bose Youjiang revolutionary base areas, this central city in western Guangxi business fairly well developed, very clean and tidy. Sweet and tender eating lunch, the bulk of the Sea Ranch Reservoir silver carp. Afternoon, 96 kilometers north to Lingyun Xian, the county over the lava karst valley, mountain is very steep, very little arable land, Yao cell are living in the mist-shrouded hill. Dinner at a friend's greeting under the Yaojia eating delicious beef Thelephora, pupa, bamboo worms, listen to them spoke Lingyun revenue of poverty, feelings are not so easily. Mountains, cold, light rain in the morning to the north of the city's water-hole probe the source of Surabaya River, this river of water originating from underground caverns to Baise convergence Sea Ranch Reservoir, flows into the re-import the Youjiang Yongjiang, Xijiang River, Pearl River, is the care of our Guangdong one person's water. SHAN Lan Village A village by that, Apple Village, Ling Station Township in the village, smoke curl, rape has been embellished field with one of the early spring scene.
To the towering peaks of the Biliu yaozhai interviews, found that the Guangzhou Young Volunteers Association for Yao cell covered tile-roofed house near the road most of the new empty, a number of Yao cell did not move from the hills down to live in thatched cottages, they have been accustomed for generations the top of the hill of life, the most important thing is there is no arable land along public roads. Mountains and there is no water, where there yaozhai places that are constructed with a large reservoir and rely on rain water storage in order to survive. The new room also has to live with people, and we went to visit a few Yao girl smile dodge our camera, their Grandma Grandpa still live in the Peak, Mid-day, carrying a stone from the ground caught under the grain to pick a point of view of these juniors. Disk-to-Peak Highway, we are even more surprised to find that the steep cliff, the crustal movement formed a huge pit of gods one by one, into the clean water into the pit lake, someone living in the tens of meters deep Tanbian. Less than Lingyun, really do not know people have such a natural ability to adapt.
Tuoniang River in town
Baise westbound 62 kilometers away to the town at the junction of Yunnan and Guangxi provinces bo'ai This is the ancient caravan stopping for a rest between the two provinces of the Department, the Southern Song Dynasty Zhuang a pair of father and daughter to settle first on the caravan pot the anaphoric "stripping" where the Zhuang is the meaning of his father, "Ae" is already married her daughter's call, one after another, after it was relocated to Guangdong and Guangxi, and gradually prosperous people to commemorate the father and daughter, the town naming bo'ai. Built along the black tiles Mulou sandwiched quartzite roadway and Qing Tao-kuang built for the elderly and the Office of Guangdong Center preserved, through the fermentation process produced seven "seven vinegar" and kiln brown sugar evaporation process from generation to generation of traditional crafts are still The town is filled with sweet and sour mixed with a special flavor. Neighborhood in a big house Qing office, filled with piles of dishes and dragon lanterns lion masks, Zhou said that the town named director of other people's weddings and funerals, and festivals are all a collective cock-quite a lot of ancient times legacy.
Spending the Night wholesale brown sugar in a small hotel Chiang Sheng, the boss wife is extremely smart, but has done very delicious brown sugar, eggs, water. Fireworks in the Ancient Street and met a lively and keen-witted 10-year-old girl, Huang Ling, to her house to play with her daughter, three life was embarrassment, doing business in the Guigang father abandoned them, her mother took her and sister back to stripping ai her parents, suffered from discrimination, relying on set up stalls selling snacks to survive. Everywhere in this world are unfair and poor people, little girl does not seem to realize that the hardships of life, to talk to us her vision, telling the story of many of our town. We bring Xiao Huang Danian 29 antelope, lion dance in the small pier New Year's gong li hing package a small boat drifting along the River tuoniang six hours, one by one along the river villages Bambusa Multiplex Yiyi Zhuang, Li Hua cauliflower set off and thatch roof of the pavilion, and brown sugar workshops reflection in the water, the water was clear and then also see fish swimming in the deep gravel Lilikeshuo. The upper reaches of the steep cliff Jiazhi the green valleys, ri rugged rocks, dense trees can be seen between the apes and monkeys jumping. Government to invest 7.8 billion construction of Baise project, to 2005, tuoniang River and 800-year-old town should be drowned in bo'ai. We can only yearn to finally look at an incomparably the good landscape, leaving her deeply in the memory.
Shangri-la-mee bo'ai over the mountains from the westbound off Funing County, after Zuozuo BI Luo like rape in the golden hills dotted Eight towns and rich fields of 37 horses Street, Chicken Street, a dog Street, Bo Yao's name, etc. beautiful and interesting villages, crossing the misty large Montenegro, in the dog Street and Riggi two villages of the collision between the large pear tree, the driver said again that opened in January pear, fall under the fruit, in particular, crispy & delicious. Guo Chu Quang Nam Street interchange to the county, is Eve in the afternoon, with great difficulty to find a farm a small cargo compartment is willing to send us to the town of Farley Bada village, the driver try to be smart on the cargo compartment can be suppressed to prevent luggage Britain off the battery in the rugged mountain road out of the battery Britain has contaminated the water all the luggage, and we have no care, resulting in a subsequent journey where everyone's underwear gradually eroded away, back to Zhuhai, almost in rags anymore trouble in a lot of jokes. 40 km of mountain Britain for nearly three hours to the village and later Fali River Walk along the dam in the United States out of tunnel 1 km to the village, to inquire into the dam in the United States who ship the village, the villagers were recruited agricultural name actually happens to the old boatman Xiaolei brother, as mentioned in the Travels that. Agricultural uncle stays boat ferry into the river water we have a large tunnel, about half an hour later, one by one see the light and then winning the hole, off the boat out of the hole, really like Tao's "Land of Peach Blossoms," just like eyes suddenly see the light: stretching, such as Guilin mountains and rivers Aoyama castle-like around the vast Bazi, rape of the countryside full of layer upon layer, Bambusa Multiplex set off an obscure village of warming far, a clear request stream around the village before, the old waterwheel rack shelf support呀branch呀, walked the blue-black bias breasted clothes Zhuang villagers who greeted loudly with us the name of ... ...
Uncle five of us in agriculture to find Xiaolei introduced under the leadership of the village on the slopes of the accounting Wong Pui-good and decent, a guest from afar, a person I do not know how we go about nervously, slaughter ducks bed, relatives to come and help. Huang Peiliang year older than me, there are junior high school culture, and participated in self-defense counterattack against Vietnam war-li Guo, third class, in the gas lamp with his family and neighbors we have more than 60-year-old great father, sister Fu Li Huang, deputy mayor along with Brewed on a crisp rice to eat dinner, the village a total of 142 628 people, all of Saudi branch of the Zhuang ethnic group descended from the Southern Song Dynasty, when the war moved to, in this safe and among the mountains surrounded by a fertile breeding feng shui treasure from generation to generation , along the river had built 32 water tankers in order to maintain irrigation, self-sufficiency, there are ancestral herbal medicine, the villagers were relying on what two tunnel access to the mountains to avoid the pain and rarely deal with the outside world, retains the ancestors pass down the The atmosphere of harmony and humility, seven surnames marry each other, away from the hustle and bustle previous wars, and even the Cultural Revolution has not been engaged in resorting to violence. The village has no electricity, but no TV and cell phone signals to the outside world has little information to know, the only electrical appliances are of one family last year to buy back driven by diesel generators VCD machines, every night and put some drama or feature film, episode fees and charges a dime.
Audible in the bird wake up early in the morning, went to the courtyard, he was immediately captivated by the immediate landscape: a touch of Yama arashi floating in the cauliflower and artless Bazi edge curl Along smell smoke inside, the local people to catch a morning grazing cattle away In the broad bean flowers, surrounded by the US River dam, waterwheel sound cruise, cattle ring is far from coming ... no ... I could not even face wash them carrying cameras, wander to noon, from the field path unknowingly passed Dumu Longbridge, climb on the hillside across the river, each taking a few steps, are looking back to look around the village, rural scenery in the mist from the smoke inside is not always the same, reminding us of scenes the feeling of a dream I can not help but to himself, recited a poem from Dow to: "knot Cottage in human territory, without even traveling show of ... ... to adopt Ju Tori, the leisurely day to see the mountain ... ... pastoral dream, Andhra long maceration? ... ... I hope that if this long, Gonggeng nothing to sigh ... ... the "yellow Peiliang of Gao came to me and my nephew thought the whole family and so I said, do lunch, return to Huang Yuan Ba, after them the ancestors of rich food, completely described by Meng Hao-ran a "dead person with chicken millet, invited me to Tian. Green Shue Estate edges together, Castle Peak Guo oblique. Kaixuan face Chang Pu, wine words Sangma "picture.
Busy year-round farming a rare break, the villagers have put on new clothes Year's Day, crowding together at the elementary school on the basketball courts and Yuanba chats, boys basketball, women played whipped the shuttlecock like butterflies. They are to retain our multi many nights that the fourth day on the hill outside the village to a few folk songs, very lively, but also told us to come back early Lunar New Year in March, peach was very good-looking, Zhuang Song Festival in March 3 is also very fun. The village in addition to our five guests, but also to a special 3: woman is the dam of the United States Li family's girl, ten years ago by mountains outside the traffickers sold in Hebei, after they escaped, wandering the suburbs of Beijing Shunyi County, encountered to the well-intentioned man that is her current husband, this time with her husband and 7-year-old son was removed back to her family after an absence of ten years with the relatives of each other, really sad but also happy. Because of the village people are relatives, long-lost daughter of the village to come back is a major event, and everyone turns to see, even we were gone. Rather talk about her husband's courtesy and give us leave the address is the Yanjing Brewery, a deputy chief, Li Jia Kujinganlai the girls are also considered.
Lived for three days, knowing the village people do not naturally tranquil and there is no trouble, they bother to set up Tourist Board Card tickets are not a penny to the village commission, with tourists who come to destroy the village environment and atmosphere that only trouble the village primary school 3 grades, children at upper primary and secondary schools to pay a tuition fee to the other villages Jidu, 14-year-old thought the high school fees alone was also brought to us, is only a junior high school students each semester of school fund-raising fees, Jidu fees, accommodation, utilities, management fees, miscellaneous fees under various names reached 400 yuan, 1,200 yuan while in high school, do not pack tuition and books. So, the village children can read a little more than junior high school, high school, only 4 people read. Education is the dam of the most beautiful and most worried about expectations are changed.
The second year we bid farewell to Huang Peiliang Farley family, the village has been sent out of the village side of the road, watching the faces of those pristine, we have to leave the loved ones gone, as the same hearts full of sadness ... ...
Poetic Yuanyangtitian
The United States to leave the dam by Nishimatsu, leather Chad, God's mercy and wave Mom, Pa-wang, watersheds and other small winding, cauliflower long village back to Quang Nam County, Zhuang, Yao, Miao and all kinds of clothing is so beautiful. From Quang Nam to the Yanshan County, along the road to see more gorgeous costumes of the Miao complex beaming girl walked, from time to time there are several shuttle bus stopped and we sat up one-way ride, flowers and silver is an inter-Chang joy faces. These two days Miao annual "step on Huashan" section, where a large stockade were busy singing in antiphonal style, bullfighting, turn to "iron out 1000" (similar to the Dumu large seesaw switch rod) and other activities. Dusk arrived flat far from the town inhabited by the Hui, which for many a long blue lake dotted the hills in the red, the rouge-colored sky Laxia dyed thoroughly. Third-year had Kaiyuan, all the way see a number of dress Miaonv. Had an old began to enter the Ailaoshan area, and winding roads like the planes in the clouds, kapok was bustling open. Yuanyang old town has been full, we had a new county in the mountain town of Nansha one night, Next Morning 6 am in heavy fog, the mountains, and the coincidence of the 15 friends with the Zhuhai travel Hani stockade cyanine mouth, listen to their tour guide Liu Han Hani Hani speaking a totem worship, genital worship. Come out from the stockade, in the fog gradually loose side, we discovered that he had exposure to the painting - at the foot has been gradually disperse the cloud of Feng ER, the layer upon layer upon layer filled with the spring and pulp terraces and Hani stockade, reminding us of scenes expose Fairy opened the veil ... ...
The old town xinjiezhen day most of the time inside the cage in the mist, as if built in the sky, grade-level increase if the steps of the days leading to the cloud street. 10:00 away Abo waiting for a friend, eating breakfast experience driving a taxi, a small village of surface water BO Longli Uncle Liu Yi people, speaking a good price for his car camera package. The remaining two days of fog on the 1st sunny day, he took us to ancient Hani's political and cultural center, known as Hani "capital" of the Ma Li Zhai, Li Hua rape turnip peach flowers set off the ancient mushroom house Full-Fu Chuang, poetry, pastoral launched incomparable points, dismount points, Nagarjuna dam, the Lao Huzui terraced Majestic more in accordance with trees, dam up, the Peak Reservoir dam pond, where we photographed Wuhai flickering terraces, Yamashita quiet beauty of terraced fields, afterglow light where light and shadow of Jesus jumping terraces ... ... We have also seen several different branches of the Hani and the two get married team, Hani girl dress simple, even the bride did not wear red wearing green, but covered with silver decoration only, but it generally Hani girl with long hair like silk, pretty rosy. Hani custom open and romantic, it is camellias in full bloom season, we have seen a lot of girls and boys spend hand-antagonistic mountain camellia trees falling in love, in the film Ma Li Chai a pair of tripod in our view, under the cliff on the vicissitudes of life like clouds relative to hug for a long time, turn a blind eye to us.
At noon the light is too strong when we went to win more than 20 kilometers outside the village of Hani and Yi people in Panzhihua and other populated towns go to the market to see colorful clothing villagers were trading all kinds of sundries cloth, a buy piles of sweet cool potato quench their thirst, 5 cents a golden papaya, eating barely walk. Water, BO Longli Liu uncle back home in the village wearing clothes Yi Liu Aunt doing photography, they Zhe Zhi Yi branch of the strange costumes, women's head wear many beads system crest cap, on the collar, lapel, full of flowers embroidered sleeves, lumbar Department of embroidery work a few more refined sophisticated diamond-shaped pieces of cloth big hard is to jump "Music for Dance" when the rejection pheasant tail up like colorful. We ate every meal in the authentic Yi Jia Liu rice, singing karaoke OK, Liu could be considered scholarly family in the village, his son admitted to a university, two beautiful daughters the same voice with the lark.
Old-fashioned long period of construction of water
Sixth days of leave Yuanyang climb Ailaoshan, after visiting the Ming Yi potou toast Yamen, rape spreading into the sky. Pulling people along the ground eating the sugar cane to the construction of the water, in this city the past two thousand years of history wander most of the day, deep stone brick lane on both sides of the old door casts long herb, Ming Si Yanjing, three wells during the monocular well spread casually walked into a Sun named people, painted sculptures carvings Ge Shan, the regiment took the "Shou" character carved wooden window frames and wood of the Yellow Crane Tower of Li Bai's poems covered with dust, Sun grandfather told us that this Qing Xianfeng years, has never been repaired before the completion of the courtyard. Has genealogical records, that have been Sun, 27 generations of ancestors Sun Qilin paddy fields in the camps were built, had the chin-shih. The Government have repeatedly asked for demolition of urban construction, the whole family streets sit-ins, hunger strikes and other trouble up until Bale. Layout rigorous Hui-hung, Chu sculpture garden open complex large duo of pink magnolia, Gu Yi stage performing a moving song and dance. Confucian Temple bells are playing the worship of Confucius ancient music, which is the country's second largest after Qufu Confucius Temple, building tolerance extraordinary, Ming red camellia flower tree is still decorated with flowers and white tea the Qing Dynasty, the building next to the water is a distance Scholar institution of civilization. Chaoyangmen architectural style and size, like Tiananmen Square, historic Tiananmen Square earlier than 28 years. Under the bustling ancient city walls of several of the old lady selling seeds are wrapped in embroidered lotus feet shoes, they were born up to the thirties, how it is also bound feet? Conceivable here as the Southern Song Dynasty, the feudal political center since the southern Yunnan sense of weight.
Sunset over and over through the rape of Tonghai and Mengzi County, to the Yuxi Shangyuan the highway at night back to Kunming, Next Morning Delivery to the Green Lake Hi Black-headed Gull, eaten the bridge noodle, purchasing flowers and large bags of specialty, Fang Yiyi goodbye to the lovely south of clouds.
Travel, transportation, cost: Nanning - Baise - Lingyun - at the junction of Yunnan and Guangxi bo'ai town - Fu Ning - Quang Nam - Pa Mei Village - Quang Nam - Yanshan - Kaiyuan - old - Yuanyang - potou - Construction of water - Kunming, highway mileage of more than 1.5 thousand kilometers. In addition to our five years of 29 200 yuan charter tour tuoniang River one day, New Year's Eve and the beginning of the second dam in the United States out of the village because of inconvenient transport packets from the Quang Nam county agricultural vehicles (to 100, back 130 yuan), and In the Yuan Yang 300 yuan needed for the package two days filming a small surface, the other traffic is traveling on county, township and inter-bus, in addition to bo'ai Baise, Kwong dam south America and the yuan yang communal Walled earth and rock to a more bumpy road outside the The remaining roads are good, law and order Ye Hao, very few close Luqiao Fei, and suitable for self-driving trip. In addition to construction of water, part of the attraction tickets, other do not have tickets. Accommodation very cheap, we generally live in one home or not more than 10 yuan / person in hotels, even between the living standard of the 6,70 million, and almost every day there eating chicken, eggs, fish, types of fruit being broken off. Wong, who lives in the United States dam for three days, we have five people to 200 yuan, a people still refuse to push revenue. 11 days, the total cost per capita was 850 yuan, coupled with Zhuhai - Nanning, Kunming - Zhuhai ticket costs 1390 yuan and the construction of a total of 2140 yuan / person.
Food Specialty: Guangxi Baise the bulk of silver carp pot, Lingyun Xian Yao cattle dog meat markets, Thelephora and Surabaya, rice noodles, Baise to bo'ai 5 km of the direction of "Yunnan 13 villages," stall the wild feast, chicken casserole Ukraine, trotters stewed soybeans , Sheng Jiang bo'ai small hotel proprietress of the river dried eggs and brown sugar widely County at Shop No. 44 bus stop across the street (not yet named a new opening) and poached hand noodles, Pa United States and the Huang family 37 stewed chicken, egg gold Golden yellow duck and sweet radish, Qingpi sugar cane, water, BO Longli Village, Yuanyang Liu Aunt earth do chicken soup, broth Taro sugar pea, the new red rice, Panzhihua market very much on the cold potato water, building water-cheap extremely large, such as strawberries and apples sweet incomparable clear date and tells the people Xiangqilaijiu drool. Along Specialties include: bo'ai seven vinegar, Quang Nam 37 (with "Jin Ping Mei," where are all praise), rice wine, Ailaoshan rice tea, Pu'er tea, burning tobacco, red rice, purple rice, sea rose rutabaga, Mongolia Since the bridge noodle, Kunming Street, flowers dried flowers, etc. in good faith.
Travel reminder: respect for the customs of ethnic minorities, people will drink a toast, eat and drink to let their elders; experience as far as possible to participate in national festivals, harvest necessarily in what you expect; Pa Mei transport facilities, the villagers at home reception capacity is limited, not too many people At the same time to them; Yuanyangtitian photography is best to live in the vicinity of the old town xinjiezhen richer Yi, Hani's home, removed from the peak of the old town guest houses, hostels lack of hard, but also facilitate an understanding of folk customs, although the vicinity of the old New Street the village has long been commercialized, the villagers were smart, good price, but can still talk about that, but the single men to Hani's home should not be accommodated due to the Hani open attitude towards sex a lot of travelers these years, girls accounted for cheap Hani Hani people the village men into the field alone, sometimes rude.
(March 2, 2002)
Author: kittyqiuqin
