Beijing's "tank" and armed with Ali, "Heaven Road"
"Who brought ancient call, who left behind thousands of years there was a long time dream ?------ not forget fondly."
A "plateau" of the song, bringing a lifetime of dreams and ideals. In particular, in July 2001 led the "China Women's Everest Expedition Team" car reached the "Mount Everest" foot of the mountain stronghold, travel nearly 8,000 kilometers. Tibet's east, south, north, "she said" That's a beautiful peaks, Hao-miao lakes, endless steppe, mysterious, natural disappearance of the kingdom and the most difficult to break the ancient culture of fans, and several years of life as a guide, almost every corner of the Sichuan Ganzi, Aba and Yunnan. To Tibet to determine the next time and a half months ahead of schedule. Their vehicles inspected, modified reinforcement, so the top frame, plus steel girder reinforced body, preparations feeling is Sisyphean. To buy spare parts, buy food, looking for information, the miscellaneous things such as broken, and finally ready to go. In the July 21, 2002 departure.
1, 318,317 Sichuan-Tibet National Highway Line:
1 Chengdu, on entering into the AGB - motorway. "Tank" on the horse to the cheerful, expand Siti speed of 110 kilometers an hour, along the 318 national highway, in the western Sichuan Plain, speeding, cis Qingyi-on, Qingyi gradually narrowed by the width. Under the new car to the Erlang Shan Zhen, until release time, "tank" body pattern, the front of the cheetah pattern, attracted onlookers crowd, especially the roof there are three spare tire. Curious asked: "Where you?" "Tibet's Ali Prefecture." Even the local traffic police have also admire our courage, exceptional first release.
Through the Erlang Mountain Tunnel, along the Dadu River, gas ditch while, the "chariot" in the new roadbed on the ups and downs, the modified steel plate, walking in such a section is nothing to fear. Loess tire rolled up, making a complete change in body color, and good maintenance, the
The dust and as a project.
Mountainous fold elevation of 4298 meters, turn twists and turns, winding Road is like forever to happen. The diversion of asphalt is now widening the mountain speed of up to 50-60 kilometers an hour, just less than 1 hour, will be able to reach the pass position. Yamaguchi streamer Sang Qing thin smoke,
Floating in the cold plateau rises. In accordance with usual practice; recess moment, in the cold sober brain.
Fold under the mountainous west, showing the plateau landscape. Topographic relief, rounded mountains, rivers and clouds, vast pastures plump.
In xinduqiao, Sichuan-Tibet Highway in this divided; North Line and South Line, north and south line of another exchange in Tibet Banda, I am from the south line into Tibet bar!
Highway with the turn-on, "tank" and snarled valiantly hurling. Have also blue skies, with the elevation, rain and snow swirling up, a sudden mist 1 km, out of cumulonimbus layer, see blue skies. Looking at the hillside of the clouds rain bands, road beside mountain meadow, yellow flowers everywhere, to grace the meadow into a golden one. The sky near dusk, down to the valley GONG Jiang Ya lots, has been reduced to 2,000 meters above sea level, scissors Bay Hill, cascading upward road circled back and forth between the two mountains in the walk through. "Chariot" to a traffic circle in the 4,500 meters, down the mountain is the world's high-Town: "Litang."
Litang Mao Ya prairie, 80 km of wide roads, Yimapingchuan across Haizi Shan mouth, in the mountains between the two lying in the blue lakes, dazzling mystery. Under the rain the more the greater the slippery muddy roads from time to time there are small groups of mud-rock flow Shun mountain down. At any time they use: "four-wheel drive low," about shaking the steering wheel, brushed aside with the front left mud debris flow. Out of mud tank area, passing the Jinsha River Bridge into Tibet. Along the riverside road, west trip.
Melancholy Man of rain have been the next stop, the formation of clouds in the valleys above the thick clouds. The wheels rolled rapidly with mud splash,
"Traffic jam of" going down to take a look at the situation in front of the rain rocks with the formation of debris flow, has already flooded roads, forming a width of 20 meters, a depth of nearly 1 meter slope. The mountain soil is still constantly poured. Looked at this situation and kept shaking his head sighing. In this valley, the advance can not, can not retreat. Accompanied by the institute in Chengdu to Tibet partners, asked: "how to do?" Everyone after two hours of emergency repairs, barely pass. "Come on," After a series of forward setting back ground, and finally washed out.
Turn the "Raoux Mountain", down the road, the size of the stones rolling down from the hills, like a minefield, like covered roads, the mountains are still constantly rolling stone, to avoid the size of the stones, from time to time have to get off moving large stones.
A bridge over the Lancang River, the God shed special compliment to the place in the sun, although the short-term risk has passed, the river mist, there is no back end, and take advantage of the opportunity the sun burst on the scene, we relax the tense mood, put on all kinds of Timmia, shooting cross the bridge across majestic and the river rock. Cox Bar mountain is the Sichuan-Tibet Southern Link, the longest national highway ramp, the most dangerous, most turn a mountain, but also many of the Sichuan-Tibet line up photos taken place. May I remember when "18 Army" a difficult road. After the two vehicles to a previous one followed. Not the least bit of flooding in sandy dirt roads, ramps with a high degree of rise, the Lancang River belt like a thin wrap-around at the foot of the mountain.
As the saying goes: "the mountains easy |, downhill hard," down the road, all excavated in the status of a precipice and into the ground,
From time to time next to the mountain landslides, stretching the crack to remain on the highway. Looking down the road, scared oversight, has resulted in life-long consequences. Every one back corner, all with emergency lights to warn vehicles behind peers from time to time had to stop and take pictures, use the opportunity to brake cooling temperature. A few days of rain, so dilapidated mountain roads, sometimes out of the pit, and sometimes Man on the road in the river road, "truck" Niuzhe "Yangge" jumping "Tango" road. "East-tat," the mountains, rain has a small groove into rivers, and now have been flash floods washed away the embankment. Ill-fated vehicle rollover in the river with, he served as the floods washed. Well-intentioned honest Tibetan compatriots,
To help rescue the goods on board.
Military depot have been dozens of freight cars, passenger cars stuck in there. The road in front of the embankment washed away by flood waters, tonight is definitely not walk, the depot all the rooms have been arranged. Nearly a hundred people have been stuck in the depot, the armed police tomorrow to reach the road. Tibet Tourism Bureau of the driver "blind Mary, just beads" also rushed to the scene, was originally the Sichuan-Tibet, Yunnan-Tibet road is also broken, and had to return. Fujian Motor Sports Association, Tibet probe Road car has become a peer of people killed.
Tianyi Fang-liang, and we drove to the front five, Fujian Motor Sports Association's car was in reverse Shiyou into the river water will, "dangerous, fast dragged out," I immediately rushed to the riverside drive, with rope hanging live in front of the insurance hook, with four-wheel drive reversing gear, had promptly pulled him out of danger. This time for 4500 in front, Mitsubishi and Fujian car, I have at the back. Tell them: In jumps the soft ground, only "four-wheel drive" or not, should also have the speed to rush. Four vehicles are in the past, the me, "hanging-wheel-drive"
2 with four-wheel drive low gear Meng stepped on the accelerator just to hear the engine roaring, jumping forward, a red by.
Wei Qu river has risen to Zogang county side of the road. In the "Tin properly" rural areas where the floods have been diffuse on the road, only noticeable in the water and disappeared when the boundary markers, the distance over 50 meters. The car stopped at the water's edge, watching the water ripple and the distance on both sides, with a block slowly into the water, the water rose to the height of compartment floor, but also before returning to the road, and then directing the vehicles behind and over 11, we each take care of each other's speed. Water in the pavement, the speed is maintained until 80 yards per hour.
First out of the 4500 parked on the roadside, the original "blind Mary" water too fast, a sudden splash of water to cool the engine, so that the engine to crank Hugging aluminum and can not turn, had taken place to find truck Qamdo Repair Cai Xing.
Away from the "bang" less than 20 kilometers of the C-curve, the "Wei Qu River" flood has submerged roads, floods, the formation of the road swing of the river bend, the roadside trees swaying in the water only branches , there are ways; stuck wading tube, remove the fan belt, distributor for waterproofing treatment and so on. In the climb up the hillside, throwing stones into the water, measuring water depth, look at the width, so that they can over the water along the traces of me again.
Back to waterside, and then guide us over the water. After all the safety over, especially in the waterside pictures of commemoration to remember that the most dangerous experience.
"Banda", located at an altitude of 4,500 meters height, is the Qamdo north east of Lhasa, Sichuan-Tibet Highway is the intersection of the north-south line, and only a row of low houses and the depot compound. Fortunately, with the cell phone signal here, also shows the progress bar during these few years! Early in the morning, several roads armed police are busy with legislation a ban on-line notice boards: "Nu groove to Basu large landslides, all vehicles detour the specific time of commissioning further notice." So and so's Armed Police Detachment.
At this time the "industry pull Mountain", due to consecutive week of rain, making roads kept the soil slope landslides, roads, muddy, narrow, exception Slippery. Curve, particularly large number of bridges, roads entirely within the shuttle back and forth between two mountains, the Nu River side of a steep cliff is still kept falling rocks, we pull away from the car, close to the precipice by. At this time, "Nu River Bridge" has blocked the size of the packed trucks and buses. A few days ago the rain has led to serious landslides Nu Groove. Another car to a post office moved into the Nu River, the die 5. Bridge guard company occupied by the driver and the women and children in the past, but fortunately the company's instructors, last year I led the "Women's Everest Expedition Team" had known. Looked at our situation, the last one is never outside the conference room, give us 18 people live. Of tourists from different places, he kept to thank.
Rainfall during the rainy season really over, we have been driving in the rain for 5 days, looking out the window of the rain, you feel anxious, in the Nu River valley was rain and fog cover was Yan-Yan from time to time, but no other side of a cliff. Few of us drivers preparing to cave area to see what happens in the road has been covered with stone mountains, only in the rubble in the bypass. Side should also beware of the stones rolling down the hill, face encounter risking their lives and over the landslide area Tibetans, they would inquire about their previous situation. "No, Oh, well, the half opening of the No"
.
Looked at this situation, we had to discuss countermeasures, no left Sichuan-Tibet Northern line 317 State Road, around the point of road bar. Furthermore, the more go west, rain is also less, we all agreed to return. Hastily eaten lunch, hurriedly packed their bags and come back to the Qamdo.
A few days ago the rain, but also to make the ground slippery. Walking in the high mountain ranges, the road was exceptionally narrow, dense trees is like walking in the forest road, simply can not see across to cars, the event will turn deceleration, honking, and the other with emergency lights to remind the vehicles behind. No dust road, we one another physically, encounter beautiful scenery, a few from time to time to stop shooting on the beauty.
"Snow Pola," Pass the streamer swaying, the Peak of snow all year round without the sun shining, the glaring issue of reflective,
Yamaguchi streamer has turned into a "keep up appearances," the stage, watching the narrow mountain road curved, in accordance with established practice, to remind the check chassis and brakes, mountain pastures, is like "Lulang" scenery, the scenery never thought 317 there is still such a detour down, turn on the car did not even bother, the shooting of the beauty of the upper road.
Car out "Riwoqe," a few days ago of landslides in many places there are traces of track maintenance workers to repair the roadbed is still, passing through the embankment repair, light honking, waved his hand, way voice greetings. To have their road maintenance workers watched figure on the road, the front must be opened to traffic in.
The more forward, more and more dry roads. Yang Qi of the dust formation of the yellow smoke zone. Not see behind the vehicle shadow. Regardless of whether they, the Japanese car than my good seal. In the evening, in the "feel-en villages," county 60 kilometers away from the Dengqen the location of the S-shaped curve, the rising floods have inundated roads, a truck stuck in flooded roads. Could not move, had to spend the night in night classes to return to the Tao.
The next day at 3 pm, before resuming traffic. We are relying on body size is small, the truck caught between the walk through, the Tibetan driver "has just Pearl" took off his shoes and socks, high-pull trouser legs and into the water to explore the way the left and right hand branch, lateral movement explore the depth and width. We are safe, after coming in the evening, only to Dengqen.
Travel nearly 50 km, the horizon was exposed gray dawn of the colors, early morning wind plateau, a slight sway, dip of the chill wind, the sky dust disturbance four vehicles, roads and no signs of landslides, but narrow, curved acute uneven and look at "Qu lire Mountain"
, The "cable-stayed Mountain", as if mountain with mountain, the mountain step by step to go to the far Dangkai. In the "cable-stayed Mountain" Yamaguchi, watching nearby Yakou, in addition to surprise, more of a breath, the wind Yakou to streamer blown "crash" sounds did not come in such a a dangerous mountain roads, even the foot of the mountain meadows of the herd is only one black dots only. We are curious to the road side, the two combined to push a rock to calculate the roll down to a few minutes to see who's rolling too close to some little flutter 10 yuan.
Foot brake heat, forcing the second and third gear down the mountain. Black spots down the mountain to see the continuous increase, from time to time for security also went to the mountain cool running water at wash-round drum. The beautiful prairie, full of unknown yellow flowers everywhere. Is like a golden carpet, fast wheels to rotate, red slope, the next threshold, over river, grinding may splash, overwhelming, splash of spray washing the windshield was clean again.
Hurry acceleration, really "runs almost every morning." A "Sog County" 20 km, have once again diverted highway bridge, and its difficult, triple jump really high altitude road "car jump, people jump and heartbeat." "La Gang Mountain" on the rain, has brought down the mountain streams, into a hard-line the river barrier. Fortunately, "chariot" excellent waterproof performance, hang up, "four-wheel drive afterburner", ignoring the slippery road, "chariot" was S-type forward, crossed the rain clouds, the mountains of the sun smile Just now, mud is also flying now see dust. Really "plateau of days, the plateau land Oh !------
Highway has been hovering over 5000 meters of altitude, distant snow-capped mountains, towering peaks boundless, Yang Qi of the dust, was blown to the road side of the wind, Yamaguchi Department streamer streamers, with small stones piled up mud heap of Mary, especially eye-catching , eye-catching. As if to tell people: "I always stand on the draft." It is also a devout believer who set up their own souls to bar!
Gradually the sun drop down the horizon Huoshao Yun Ying top of the hill. America was intoxicated, engaged in a strange landscape, as if some kind of magical divine hypnosis, leaving only a breathing heavily breathing, mechanically by pressing "Shutter," where his body no longer exists, leaving only a SOUL's sentiment. Plateau under the night sky, the stars bright in your eyes shaking, it seems within reach, space inside the Galaxy, could not utter the name of the constellation, visual mess from time to time of the meteor across the night, leaving a long tail, "Nagqu city" lights far presented on the horizon, so that you do not tell is the starlight, or lighting. Middle of the night, finally from the "space" under the "Nagqu" in the city.
The sky has been bright and the other three cars have gotten to restore the mountain yesterday, five driving tired, not today, hurry, take the opportunity will go to Nam Co, Nagqu horse racing festival, Montreal, over the mountains colored tents dotted the hillside, dressed in around in festive costumes, Tibetan, lit kitchen smoke, drinking tea with milk, the sale of cattle and sheep trade on both sides of the road scene. The diversion of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway widening project, from time to time makes the vehicle drive off the road, the road in the pavement, the curious smile, looking at the Tibetan herders dusty mud stained body, traffic jams, the kids were full of black shell out a small hand - , we have made in the mainland do not have generous promotions.
When the male after the shunt, to Namco's roads, but also more than last year, when the mountain's streamer, mulberry smoke in the cold wind blowing Piaoyuan Yamaguchi, Nam Co Lake, quietly lying under Tanggula , not tell what color the lake. Deep Blue, Dai Qing or anyone else involved not. Down nearly 40 kilometers of washboard road and had to pay close attention to the steering wheel.
The evening, Namco, sailing Shi Ying in the sunset light and shadow, but also showing her a unique figure. In the sunset of the illuminated colored streamer in revealing the faint outline visible. Horizon Huoshao Yun, 1.1 points above the clouds the dominance of erosion, only Xide super fans wearing winter clothes laid them out of "Zhangqiangduanbao" burst Kuangpai, four weeks apart from the wind, that is metal, "Kacha" sound. Night under the Nam Co, sleeping in the Nyainqentanglha mountain.
Pull a curtain, while crashing into the sun. Stretch, wake up in Guangzhou friends, one a weariness over capacity, large inverted grievances: "4800
Height, as well as headache, feeling tired during the journey. "Fortunately, today went to Lhasa, a good bar and then rest for a while!
Straight asphalt road, "truck" flying Siti, nearly 100 kilometers an hour, for a long time do not have such a high-speed experience. Guo Yangbajing, into the canyon, the bottom is a tributary of the Lhasa River. The distinct feeling that constantly downhill, the next seven to 80 kilometers only see the same slope of slow-ping. Down to 3700 meters above sea level in Lhasa valley, no wonder the wind out of the window is less cool side of the road barley fields gradually more up roadside evergreen trees on either side, a fork to the airport road junction, you come to the city of Lhasa area.
Our "tank" and, after 13 days of the long journey to the Sichuan-Tibet wearing covered with dust, mud into the city. Plethora of luxury imported cars on the streets, cement road surface too flat grassland, line the streets of neon lights, coupled with some Chinese characters on behalf of English and a variety of advertising, seemed to have forgotten body plateau Lhasa.
"Back to Lhasa, back to my home." Sumptuous dinner, the Tao v. the road hard. Replace all the warm friends of all hard feelings of joy to replace the tired body.
Pleasant the past few days to relax, stroll around during the day sightseeing in the evening my friends about the evening is: "Post Latin American duo" bar, tomorrow, "traveler" Inn, thoroughly enjoyed themselves to drinking beer, either know or do not know friends, with each other to pass the horizons of experience. Sichuan, in particular the mouthful of words, everyone will ask: "Are you taking the Sichuan-Tibet line came from? There cave?" Scenery scenery road conditions, but also the non-Q can not do.
The evening back to the hotel, the brain should also be considered into Ali did not think the problem, view maps, memorize the terrain, rivers, distribution and highway mileage. Vehicle repair, maintenance and related accessories, purchase of liquefied gas cylinders, stoves, pressure cooker and the food. The past with each passing day, the body is well restored, the necessary preparation work has been close to perfect, especially in selling spare parts of Beijing friend, What do I need spare parts, then the supply free of charge. Hong Xi Hotel in Kashgar, specialized sponsor two tires, everything is in place, only to cross the "Sour Milk Drinking Festival."
"Sour Milk Drinking Festival," day 3:00 get out of bed, rushed to the foot of Wu Zi "Drepung," the weather has not put bright, surrounded by dark, and the Tibetan pilgrims trail has been packed with a mountain stream, I heard that the Buddha to show to start before dawn, we will arrive early to avoid missing Buddha show time. The sky has just illuminated the valley four strands of the San Piaoqi a smoke, low powerful Fahao reverberating in the mountain streams, smoke gradually dissipated, like a huge embroidery Sakyamuni Buddha Taiwan from the slopes of the show slowly rising. At this point, the whole valley was a dazzling Buddhist Taiwan, dazzling the rising sun, waves surging crowd was shocked at this piece of dazzling Buddhist, people have a stroke on the courage and kissed ----- -.
2, into Tibet, "Ali" South Line:
August 11, Lhasa off friends drove their own vehicles, send us Lhasa, 1000 D 10000 will urge a camel speak of, we reluctant to part ------。
To "Shigatse" road, I am already familiar with the road along with the Lhasa River, the NIE Tong Buddha is also too busy to attend, along Qushui highway along the Brahmaputra-on, large golden yellow flowers of rape and green barley fields, were all thrown behind his back. Spacious asphalt so that the "tank" to maintain speed 100 km per hour. More than 270 km away, only took 3 hours, went to the "Xigaze."
Lazi De-wang hotel, warm hospitality of the Tibetan female boss "Drolma" I have heard today, I want to come, have already settled rest of the Department, the welcome into the living room, warm side on the yak butter tea, sweet and delicious drinking yak butter tea, watching decoration Tibetan design is very beautiful patterns really rare. Like a camel into the dream hall.
Lazi 5 km out of 318 national highway to accompany the visit, we almost 3,000 km finally broke up with us. Straight ahead is the new Tibet km 214 National Highway, highway sections on both sides of the cave has not yet repaired, occasionally a few shift workers, busy figure, and rebuild roads and often have large trucks bogged down in quagmire. Large number of trucks carrying pilgrims left shaking hard right-huang to crawl, "chariot" only in this pit there is no road forward jump ups and downs. In Cela Yamashita, floods have already washed away roads without a trace, nor the go? Looked at the distance only indentation, walking through the waves splash in the river turned, like a camel bypass water snake.
Plateau blue sky, there is no trace of clouds, crystal clear. Blinding glare of sunlight and strong ultraviolet light to dark skin, roasted, with sunglasses face, leaving a clear imprint, really like pandas profile.
22 classes over 14 kilometers, Ding type of road, Ali sub-regional north-south line of intersection will be here. Cement plates handwriting has been blurred, unremarkable to legislate on the roadside, but fortunately there's a command card, really "modernization" of the mark. To enter Tibet since the line on the road map which relies entirely on the line, the north is the north line of Ali, West is the southern line.
Highway as clothing rubbing plate of the difficult, but to increase speed, to overcome the vibration frequency of plate, hard gravel road, completely disregard. Really thick rear axle, to overcome the bumpy rubbing clothing board ground, there is no better means, even the shock pad is intact beams.
Out of the checkpoint and found that the left front wheel leakage, and enter the county as soon as tire repair. The result is a broken tire wire, bar bad tube. I thought, or a high-speed causes excessive tire wear and tear, lost to hard rock, after such a road, he pays careful attention Cai Xing. Be regarded as lessons learned bar!
Saga Prefecture is an important channel south Ali, Ali area east to the south across the river, to the Gyirong counties, also available at the China-Nepal border.
Ali, the county is also the last one into the gas station. Since then, there is no gas station in 1400 kilometers of the.
People over-grazing, so that the slopes along highways and serious desertification. The wheels of passing the yellow sand filled the Yang Qi, a long time can not be dispersed. Highway in the grass undulating difficult, being a large truck rolled into a crater, and leave traces of the rainy season, struggling.
The grass road to countless wheels India, to find a new ground with no dust, but also took away the dust in front of large trucks passed a new imprint. Otherwise, you really want to get lost. Ali, if there is smoke in front of that road lies, but it must be fixed on the Yamagata and the feature profile. Otherwise, even asking the road could not find one, peer-cars are few. In the new and old Zhongba County crossroads, using a compass to find direction, turning to "new moon negra," Yamaguchi, hillsides have been severely desertified grassland, shattered, sad to weep, zguilma lake is also a flock of sheep ran grass will be rolled up yellow sand, there to calm the lake, printed across the peaks of the reflection of the sky and white clouds, inverted printed on the surface of the lake, the lake a gentle breeze, as if the movement of clouds, fairyland. Picturesque scenery along the way, even the sandy road, shoot photos, you can, confused as real ones. However, the road surface silt thick yellow sand, often so large trucks bogged down unable to move.
"Pa sheep" is a great " 'Alaska," prairie-style town houses arranged in a small town on the loose, the town square in the center of dozens of small square, lying sheep. East pile west of the square on a tearful lazily basking in the sun, a few Beijing buddies came up with each other asking, ha! We looked at the whole car is only 3 people, all envy, but they are all car is 7. Squeezed a bit of cost-sharing bar!
On the distant snow-capped mountains, there are already lead-gray clouds, in front of some rain. Getting dark, and fear most is lost in the grasslands,
Here again is an animal protected areas, there are sheep ranch, there are wolves appear. Lead the way in front of several large trucks full of high mountains on people, have been col lee camp to see when the journey is the wheel when the hidden track, half-human, how high in the deep grass ahead to avoid the deep grass,
As far as the edge of the grass road, again and again posed back to the deep grass to look for wheel tracks, roads in the grass and we like to play Micang, sometimes visible, sometimes not visible. Flood, bridges, from time to time in front of the emergence of a bridge where there is no fix roads, there is no road into the river bridge, the case of strange, strange.
Front lights, have just been anxious mood, so that we can not help but cardiac together, nearly half an hour to reach a light tent a inquiries, here is a fragrant built, there is no house, only a few tents in place, well, in order to security, had the case. Tent hostess, hospitality greeting settle down, point, cow dung fire, no vegetables, eggs, fried rice had to improvise meal to comfort a hungry stomach.
When the ewes milking tied together the sound of our awakened from a dream, look around, I really have a sense of sparsely populated, remote wilderness not see the rest of the tent, the rain last night, so that prairie mud everywhere, behind the river has been become turbid flood, experience tells us that last night, the gray clouds in the air wave Kangri mountains, rain water has been spilled down the hasty clean up is completed, launch vehicles, installation of wading tube, to avoid the path of large trucks over the water to between the two wheels in position, hanging "afterburner four-wheel drive," and grabbed the steering wheel, slowly underground, feeling the beating of the wheels and body under the voice, approaching the road Hom, the blow to the direction, use of water The thrust, turn on the Hekan, out of the water.
Early morning sunlight to the grass moist fog evaporation, so that the mist hanging in the Mid-levels merged into a cloud band, the grazing of the Tibetan herdsmen, horse riding sheep across the road, road feel particularly straight, pointing to deep blue sky, roll up the Huang Chen, as if a wall ring style not see behind the scenes, but also the beauty of decorative blue sky, "Ah La Suo, that is, the Tibetan Plateau," the voice Cong Juli was heard reverberating in the grasslands ----- -. Brake feel somewhat powerless in the distance increased, the rapid stop inspection, brake master cylinder chamber, after the oil has no brake fluid, leaving only a front brake, and down the chassis inspection, after the bridge side of the three joints on the right brake mains connector split off vibration, oil total loss from the gap in the Mainland has never been the fault, where everything is possible, blame the manufacturers without considering the consequences of suspended shock hazards.
Remove appliances, point of burning liquefied petroleum gas, as do lunch time, the pipe joints plus red annealing, with a knife in front of round cross-re-do a good job to change the shape of the temporary alternative. The same time, the mineral water, pressure cooker, sausage, cabbage, and so food, good lunch. Otherwise, only the hungry. Goshawk under the blue sky has also been drawn to the curious nomads rode horses flew over, looked at us from behind to catch up with peers who greeted Gao Yang arms that we respond to shouted: "eat啦!"
Ready documents, in front of border controls, faster bridge, suddenly found a rope hanging in the road, braking too late,
Or-leave-rope two of the posts and down again as an apology, but also to explain the reasons for the brakes not working and it did not put on "red gate" of the charges, and the other said, in front of the "Ma Yau mula," Yamaguchi, exhorted attention, there is indeed a good the armed soldiers stationed in such a difficult environment, the amiable, admirable.
In "Ma Yau wooden pull" down the mountain, Kai Guo's water tanks, reminds us that water, stopping at the river, water breaks. Come in front of cars, emergency stop in the car at, "Who called me?" Looked up a friend in Chengdu, with white, bright boys & girls, the Mainland has been a "plateau woman" had. Some affectionate greetings to each other that way and the pain and unheard.
5216 meters of the "Ma Yau mula," Pass, entering the Ali region of the holy lakes, holy mountains last bulwark of last night's rain and snow into a snow-covered road into the world, and large trucks were sliding too disorder placed at the slopes, not down blocked by large trucks in the snow meadow,
Hung, "four-wheel drive" side of horizontal body, around the pass.
Mountain streamer Mani Dui, is the largest streamer Ali Kamiyama outside the office, even the devout Tibetan driver, will be driving, according to customs three times from left to right around the thought of the hardships on the road course of Buddha bless. Deliberately turn on three times a they wish. I do not know when the rear wheels was again rolling stones bad, down the road-side cross in the hillside, a few downhill Road, just a few belts around the mountain between the motorcade came, divided into several columns, approaching, pull up a dust of the canopy, mutual-ming the speakers, a friendly greeting. Down to the lake, and quickly tire.
"Kunggyu wrong" side of a lake, road walking in the meadow, marsh, river floodplains, and numerous streams, slight mistake, they caught them, "I am a bicycle ah," Shen-xing. Do not trust the Department, had to get off to view, from time to time back out, find another way out. Wheels fluctuated in flood, swamp rocks in the jump, modification heightening the body, without fear of unnecessary climb, driving, it is also the region came to realize that Ali did not protect the back side of vehicles reasons.
Marshes of the black-necked cranes, ducks, and unknown birds, have been "tank" and the roar of "roar" sound startled and quickly launched into from the front, the Tibetan wild ass and smart Huangyangchuan outrush hills, lake reflected upside beautiful clouds, a lot of time had to continually stop and take pictures.
At dusk, the lake in front of Enpa Jie Miao is the "holy lake", Manasarovar, distant peaks, is "Gurla" peaks, sunset lake, endless. "Holy lake" in the afterglow of sunset splendor issued by a mysterious and spiritual in shock.
Hall straight ahead down the mountain town, settled accommodation,抢拍vision under the sunset afterglow. Crazy about it, just for this moment of beauty and desire.
After Pagar border checkpoints, "Snow Baby" Kang Yan Birch peaks, "she said," 6638 meters above sea level, her beautiful rounded peaks, attracting pilgrims from around the world, the dream came to the foot of Birch Gang Ren, even if thousands of miles, fell to the pilgrims on the road, but also they are attracted by the charm of the many religious followers and us. With this in mind a few years, Sichuan-Tibet line a few into a few out, on the Everest, the next Shannan, wearing the Qinghai-Tibet, only the hearts of long-time dream of it - Ali's wish. This year's "Year of the Horse," a particularly large number of transfer Yamahito, regardless of the big trucks on the road met, always full of people and goods over, the foot of empty tents everywhere, I really like a tent city.
The car rolled into four square yard, "Gangdese guesthouse", moving under the luggage, settled accommodation, covered with dust, worth of journey over the "tank" and attracted everybody's crowd, especially the local Japanese off-road vehicles of visitors, curiosity and surprise, often comes up in the Ali region of the
4500, land cruiser, all-Japanese car exhibition games to be here to see this kind of "old car" is really rare. Driving Status of Tibetan peer curiously asked questions to see if wading tube, increasing the height of the car body parts, carburetor modification of the Department, the front hung, stood on top, followed by carrying a spare tire, and readily available items -- ----。 Do not live with sighs, and our condition, and capacity.
Good to rest a night, the United States and the United States eat one meal a decent breakfast. Clean up of Mt items, last night set a good back-fu, and so long on one side. The sky is blue, Gurla peaks of the clouds had risen, leaving only peaks of the Peak, has not been cloud cover, holy lakes, the lake reflecting the sun's rays, corner to the top of the Shang Xianyue hanging in the sky Kamiyama the way change has also been a lot of Tibetan mountains, and there may be some people Tianbuliangjiu have hit the road. We the people of Mt Caichu thinly scattered along the path of the road, after a small hill, the turn look back Pagar vast grasslands, leaving the grass many rivers in the sun reflecting his band of light.
Through the legs pagoda, trail walk through the valley beneath the road along the valley slowly ground line, song Temple of the bridge, the trail is divided into two, keep to the right while walking near some point, according to the terrain, look at the scenery, or go on the left bar! Along the way leisurely, as long as King affectionate, were all photographed. To basking in the sun burning the skin, taking heat off of the rest and then put on, all the way hard, all the way to climb involved. Threw himself into the holy mountains of the environment.
Tianyi Fang-liang, drilled early to warm sleeping bags, pack backpacks luggage, sleeping in Tibetan, has been burning up tea on the mountain today than yesterday, more difficult lines. Chaos everywhere a rocky beach, with the elevation, panting breaks are also more time-consuming than it was yesterday, hurry bar. Strive to turn the pass around noon, when, although the sun sinister, but not experience strong winds and hail ------。
The snow on the ground, with the elevation and slowly increased, pious people emerge from the ground as if in general, more and more. Back of small Fu old people, another Chan Fu Zhuo Mala forward to pass ahead, especially those who knock the long head of the faithful, who were dressed in thick cotton-padded clothes, dressed from chest to the leg below the knee leather apron, head wrapped in scarves, only the eyes exposed. Approached a curious inquiries, need to use the past 30 days, but can be a life-long wish. While others are dedicated believers in this way.
The sky is blue, the snow is silver, and roads in the rapid upward extension, over Tianzang Tai, India into the front is everywhere of the clothing, and other clothing.有的虔诚信徒留下额头的鲜血和头发，每人都会留下自己的心愿。我们商量留下什么呢？也表示再生之意呢？ “爬下，翻转身起来”------。重复动作三遍，好奇的藏族人瞪大双眼，看着我们的动作，只好解释到：“汉族方式吧。”人们报以憨厚的微笑。
前面的路越来越难走了，全在石块中穿行，有的石块都被人们踩出了深深的脚印，找一个背风的石块，口嚼巧克力，喝着矿泉水，补充热量体力。前面就是“卓玛拉”山口了。山坡逐渐陡了，空气异常的干燥，喉咙火辣辣的疼痛。山口上的经幡历历在目，好不容易，终于爬上了“卓玛拉”山口。 5630米的山口处，虔诚地人们围着经幡转上三圈，跪在尼玛堆前，口中念念有词，人们取出代来的经幡，系在绳上面，随风飞舞，有的点起桑烟，把青稞酒倒在上面，然后缓慢地站起来，把象盐一样的白色粉末撒向空中，再把印有经文的各色纸片抛向空中，山峰把纸片吹得漫天飞舞，山顶的狂风一阵阵的呼啸吹来，使人根本无法站立，卷缩着身体，匆匆下山。
下山的路极为难行，路上遍布石头，每一脚都得踩稳，千万不可把脚扭伤，山路在一大片草甸、沼泽中曲折延伸，“哗哗”作向的河流小溪，深一脚、浅一脚的在石块上跳跃前行。前面的同行者，还有不时摔倒，哼咛地坐在路边，只好一阵安慰，长途下山的脚本身就很疲软了，
而返回时还需踩稳，可想难度多大。
夕阳下的“纳木那尼”山峰，金色的余辉照耀山头，乌云翻滚的云层构成一幅奇景，玛旁雍错的湖面，雨后的云层也显露出条条彩虹，人们挂着风尘的疲惫，但却掩饰不住眼里的兴奋和喜悦，冈底斯山下的塔软，就向远古的传说，不同语言，来自不同的地方，却实现着共同的目标，不辞风尘劳累，风餐露宿，翻越千山万水来到这里，献上一份虔诚心愿。真是转山途中，
难忘的是人。
回头深深地望着夕阳下金黄色的冈仁波齐山峰，山口处的经幡在萧瑟的晚风中不停抖动----
--。想到那些还在路上的人们，心里默默地祝福他们也象我们一样平安，完成一种心愿和梦想。
昨天的疲惫，还没有恢复，今天又要走了。代着对冈仁波齐的美好记忆，“战车”一直向西，水系纵横的草原公路，又使“战车”变成一叶扁舟在水中挣扎，好似河水要将他吞噬。你到过阿里后，对路的概念就有更深的理解------。只有车走过，就是路。
草原公路随着山峦起伏的山坡，直上直下。有时你面前象一道高墙似的陡坡，好似直上云霄、又直下跌入深潭一般。经过门土边防检查站，草原美景、随山势、随走随拍，平坦的草原上，无需手握方向盘，像机伸出窗外，随手抓拍，即省时又省力。
原地转着大圈，什么角度都不放过，好爽。
巴尔兵站，公路一分为二，应该分道了，对照地图，是没有标示的地方，进到兵站，问明方向，向左，拐进河滩乱石的便道，便道已被山洪几乎冲毁，只剩下坑坑洼洼，遍地乱石的路基，而这条路在地图上还是新路呢！也是为了扎达到巴尔兵站的战备需要而建，只是修路容易，
保养难吧。
阿里土林地貌，呈现在前方的山沟里，被雨水浸蚀成条条纵横交错的沟槽，轮廓。峡谷与土林层层叠叠，延绵不断，一望无际的土林，有的象气势宏伟的城堡，有的象高耸的塔楼，置身于土林中，不由地感叹，自然的力量和刀斧神般的魔幻世界。
在新路的84公里处，一上坡，道路急分两边，一根木桩立在交叉路口，对照地图向左。
“战车”驶入“土林沟”来回穿梭，美景、地貌相拥眼前，沿着跳跃起伏的水毁公里，跨过象泉河大桥，就是扎达县城。
县城坐落在象泉河的台地上，海拔3760米县城不大，几百米长的独街，找到县城的武装部招待所。安顿好住宿，相约到街上的饺子馆，真比快餐、红肠之类好多了，还有久违的洗澡堂-
-----。
驶过18公里的土路，来到名叫“扎不让”的村庄，穿过村子，沿着干枯的河床便道，就到白庙门口，整座山遍布着依山修砌的建筑物废墟，在四周荒芜的土林陪衬下，透射出历史的悲伧，残存的古庙颜色，也显现出夕日的辉煌，城堡分为下部“民居”、中部“寺庙”、上部“王宫”的结构。城堡高度为200米，古格王朝建筑全部依山而建，沿着小路盘山而上。路边的空洞还残存着当年作战用的箭杆、盾牌、盔甲和做武器的石头。庙宇、洞中的壁画，反映了当时社会生活各个层面，盘旋于山体小路可通往山顶。一段幽深的暗道，这是通往山顶的唯一通道。真有“一夫当关，万夫莫开”之势，实属“易守难攻”。站在城堡的窗口，遥望对面象泉河谷，四周皆是层层叠叠的土林和纵横交错的沟壑，满目苍凉，贫瘠，真是一段辉煌的文明，淹没在滚滚黄沙中。顺着山脚的小溪，一个不起眼的小洞在旁边山崖上，洞口离地2米多，人先要跳起，摩一下里面手抓的位置，跳起来，再用双手抓住，才能撑上去。进到干尸洞，洞内干尸骨架、衣服遍地都是，洞内十分宽敞，只是进口不大，几十公分宽，70公分高，用带香味的湿巾掩鼻而进，踩着干尸骨架发出断裂的声响，好奇一探，由于气候干燥，有的尸骨没有完全腐烂，洞中散发出强烈的腐臭味，更奇怪的是，还尽是无头的干尸------。
打听好到皮央、东嘎的里程和分路特征，吃过午饭，驶出县城沿扎达沟河谷，前行38公里，
只见一条隐约可见的便道，爬上陡峭的山坡，到处是大坑小凼，根本不是公路，是否还是走错道？反复对照地图，回忆分路特征，连车上的倾斜仪已经指向危险的角度，道路异常难行，最后连便道也没踪影。下车环看四周，近百米下的河床，也是乱石遍地，便道直指河谷，难道这是路？心想。只好安慰自己，来车少而罢了，顺着积土近尺余的陡坡，全部是回头急弯，到尽头还得用倒挡，修正方向，才可完全转身，高速1挡，下山太快，只能用低速2驱2挡的方式下山，大家紧张地紧盯着路面，发动机怪叫的下到河床里，回望上山的路，怎样返回？心想，沿着不见尽头的河床，“战车”跨过大小石块，不时车身下传来沉重的撞击声，几十米以外都是弯道，如果这时有洪水下来，只有车毁人亡了。担心、焦虑，寻找出路，车行十几里后，左边的青稞麦田露出山坡，有麦田的地方附近一定有村庄，我们三人分头寻找出路，对面远方的灰尘，引起我们的注意，拿出望远镜一看，就是车的身影。但是，路在何方呢？前面的河道，好似一直到尘土之处，下到水里，涉水而行，好在没有山洪的河水不是很深，选择水花翻滚之处而行。
鸣响喇叭，急呼“小两口”的老公，他终于手拿木棍，穿过麦田慢慢过来，看着手里多出的木棍，他解释道：“防狼的”。我们哈哈大笑。
山上的洞窑引起了我们的注意，找到村里的一个藏族同胞，他用不熟的汉语说道：“皮央”
.啊、真是得来不费功，但是藏族同胞，又问我们：“从哪里来？”“后面山上下来的”，“
路的没有。 ”哈哈大笑一番，好在我们从后面偷偷地下来，否则，无缘可见。还需文化局批准才行。
“东嘎、皮央”是相距几里的十几户人家的小村庄，92年才被发现的石窟坐落在近百米的山崖上，山上的洞穴密密麻麻地分布在断崖山体上，就象蜂巢一般，山体残存的寺庙、城堡石窟和塔林组成的大型遗迹，规模宏伟，气势磅礴，真是惊叹古人的技能和工程之宏大。
驶出被铁丝网保护的村庄，沿着河流便道，回到公路上，已经不知东西南北，顺行几里看见路桩，才知道走错了方向，倒车掉头，返回巴尔兵站的路上，大脑还浮现几小时前的情景和手拿打狼棍的笑话。
忽然，只听到后轮的“吱吱”漏气声，停车一看，“没气了”。现在我们陷入到进退两难的境地，回扎达还有40.50公里，到兵站还有70公里的距离，更危险地“这里是野狼出没的地方，怎么办？大家商量对策，最后我还是决定，为了安全起见，让“小两口”他们离开这里，带着坏胎回扎达。修好后，再马上返回来接我。
天边飘起一片尘土，“有车来”，一辆普兰电信局的越野车，又为抄近道，被身陷在山沟。
好在我们身处高处，帮忙指引回到公路上，说明情况和表示感谢。 “小俩口”俩代上备胎返回扎达。定下心来，计算他们返回时间。
时间1小时1小时的过去了，还不见他们的踪影，担心和后怕涌上心里。 How to do?走路返回是不可能的，看一看运气，后面还有没有车来吧。只好听天由命了。但愿能安全度过今晚。
天色渐渐地暗了下来，最后一抹的金黄色阳光隐退云层。四周空空荡荡的，远处的土林在夜幕下，更显它的狰狞面目，阴深恐怖。今晚的月亮照出四周厚重的云层，心想万一真有狼，我又怎样对付的办法。
我把“战车”引擎盖掀起来，绑上绳索，应急时好挡住前面的玻璃，软蓬后面用所有的物品堵在四周，排气管也取下消声器，四周挖出油沟，用地毯撕成条状，浸上汽油，顶上行李架的备用油桶，把软管压埋在油沟里面，在驾驶室内就可以控制油量流出，液化气罐改装成为火焰喷射器，把武器“弹弓”固定在探照灯上------，等等方法。
月亮已经升上天空，照得空旷草原大地更显凄凉、阴森。天上不时飘过厚重的云层，挡住星光，更使觉得毛骨肃然，如不是在这种高原环境下，那到是赏月的好时光。紧盯手表时间，看看日历，啊！今天正好是8月21日，农历7月13，还是女儿的生日呢。时间已进上半夜，还不见他们救急返回，越是寂静的时候，越是心慌，心中七上八下。连爱在夜间出没的小动物也没有，越感到危险的存在。好奇的我，也瞪大双眼环视四周的动静。这时，寂静的荒漠高原上，远方传来狼的“吼叫”声，在月光映射下的前面山坡，狼的身影时隐时显，数落着狼的身影，一只、两只、三只------、共有近十只出没在四周山头，好在我的位置三面都能观察狼群的动向，狼群围着“战车”转绕着四处奔跑。随着距离的缩短，发动引擎，打开车灯，没有排气管的引擎，发出硕大的轰鸣，响彻夜空。这时的狼群就象炸窝式的四处跑开，马上没了踪影。四周又暂时恢复了平静，紧张的心情好一阵安慰。 “嘿嘿，这一招真管用。”大约半小时之后，狼群又返回来了，好象改变战术一样，一大群只是在百米开外游荡，先有几只慢慢地围了上来。
又再一次的发动、再一次的逃跑，只是感觉没跑多远，清晰地身影随处可见，吼叫声还两耳可闻。如此几次地反复折腾，好象狼群觉得只是声音大而已吧！没什么可怕。慢慢地狼群也只是退却几步，根本无所谓了。反而狼群围着四周环绕，无办法，只好用液化气改装的火焰喷射器，引燃油沟的汽油，狼群只是围在火圈外远远地奔跑。随着火圈里面的火焰变小，赶紧的放开油管，让汽油自动地流到油沟里。四周被火光照得通红，座在车上总不是办法，还得寻找机会“出击”才行。
一道雪亮的光柱刺破夜空，光柱照耀下的狼群，双眼闪着寒人的绿光，棕黄的毛发耸立背上，左手撑着探照灯，右手紧拉弹弓，“啪”。
一棵钢珠直射最近的狼，随着狼的一声惨叫，所有的狼群，全部四散而逃。 “哈哈”心中一阵狂喜：“还是我厉害吧！好不得意啊”。得意时还穿上红色外套在车灯照射下手舞足蹈一番，变成红色的怪物，反正你没见过吧。山坡上吹来瑟瑟的寒风，为了发动机不被冻着，不时还得预热发动十几分钟，顺便也需要给探照灯充电。
随着时间的推移，狼群焦急的在四周山坡上乱跑，随着距离的靠近，光柱照射的狼群，总是带着一声惨叫跑开。以后在光柱照射下，都会惊吓地跑开。离天亮越来越近了，狼群在四周的火圈外发疯的狂跑。就这样，你来我往、用声音吓、靠近就用弹弓打，几经折腾，东方已经露出鱼肚白的颜色，狼群始终没有找到破绽下口。随着天色渐渐发亮，要离开的狼群，发出一阵使人毛骨悚然的长哮“呜------”。在微光的轮廓中，清晰可见他仰天长哮的身影。
从“小俩口”离开到现在有近10个小时了，从昨天他们离开，到现在还没有一辆车经过这里。随着狼群的离开，天色已亮，朦胧中，直到晃眼的阳光照进车里，肚子才有饥饿之感，才想起昨晚到现在还没吃饭。看着地上一片狼迹，油沟里焦黑的土地，不禁后怕，差一点就葬身于狼口。
上午10点过，一辆摩托车背着车胎过来，看着焦黑的土地，就知道昨晚发生了什么故事。 --
----看着救兵来到，真不知用什么语言来表达感激之意，把车胎帮我上好，又一起返回扎达县。
回到县城，大家围了上来，“小俩口”诉说没来的原因，补好备胎，出再多的钱，也没有人愿意跑这区区十几公里的“土林沟”和狼群出没的草原。 “小俩口”都急得哭了起来，差一点跪下求人了，安抚他们的担心，讲着昨晚的奇遇，诉说离别等待的痛苦，只要你们安全，我就放心了。
天一放亮，急忙离开县城。因为昨夜的下雨云层，就怕到扎达沟里遇到洪水，趁着洪水没有流下来，赶紧冲出去。一入沟口，说沟真是沟，两边的山体相距不到百米，山势都是刀削般样直上直下的悬崖绝壁，而有的地方，汽车只能行驶在河床下面的深沟里，深沟又只能单车通行，而且，雨水在深床只能通过深沟才能流走的。
“战车”在遍地的乱石滩上行走，使速度慢了下来，两边的土林形态各异，而有的山崖下面，随处可见、被洪水冲毁的货车残痕，特别好奇的是有一辆残痕是“车头向上、车尾向下”整齐地立在那里。好似有人故意做的雕塑。而这里的洪水威力，早已是扎达朋友一再提醒过，赶紧加快车速，只想早一点离开这个鬼地方。
“不好，洪水来了”，一尺多高的泥水，翻卷着泥浆，迎面而来。正好身处深沟里，减挡，
“挂四驱”，从车头涌上的泥浆，把车窗遮盖得什么也看不见，打开雨刮，快速摇晃着，放慢车速，以免发动机被水浸熄火。如果那样，后果就是在泥泞的河沟里，对水的迎面阻力，在湿滑的泥浆里，根本不能起步，只好随着水的冲力，向后滑行。何况还在身处深沟里，一打横，
车身迎面阻力增大，就会被水推翻。好在经过防水处理的分电盘，无畏水的浸湿，保持足够的推力前进。最担心的事情，就是后面的洪水只会越来越大，更加难行。 “战车”在这样的危情中奋勇前进。手拍着方向盘，口中念到：“战车啊，战车，千万不能熄火，你一定能行的，稳稳地冲吧！”手拍着、口念着，深沟里的尽头已经能看见了。开出深沟，选一个能爬上的高坡，挣扎上去，“休息吧！等水退了再走”，经过1个多小时，洪水明显地减小、降低，驶回到路上，走出流下洪水的沟口，确实是从“香孜”方向流下的雨水。前面已经没有水的痕迹，总算放下心来，望着“战车”死里逃生、浑身的泥浆，停下来，拍上一张做纪念吧。
“战车”还在河床中绕行，很多地方不见车轮痕迹，但驶到尽头，车痕又在前面山沟处显露出来。七绕八回，真有不知路在何方的感觉。
走出河床，两边无际空旷的大草原展露出来，蓝天白云下，烈日当空，晒得泥浆满身的车身处的泥浆，象盔甲似的震动下来，远处的铝灰色云层，预示前方还有雨。不由地踩下油门加快车速，5240米的“儿子大板”，直上急下，不是路的公路回绕盘旋，好不容易上到山顶，豆大的雨点又夹着冰雹铺天盖地迎面而来，前方一片雨蒙，什么也看不到。 5170米的“央金拉”山口，“老子大板”更是雨雪交加，5米以外什么也看不见。随着海拔的降低，雨水在下面又汇成洪水，越来越大，而现在只能抄近道下山，跑在洪水前面。好在盘旋的公路，能使我们看见下山的位置。跨过最后的一条河流，迎面而来的部队车队，向我们问明山上的情况，我如实相告。此时，“一声停止前进”、“改道巴尔兵站”，并且一再告诉我们；“不能在草原上过夜，小心狼群，这里很危险”。
一出那木如，草原变得广阔无际，改道加宽的草原公路，把草原破坏得面目全非，“战车”
不时还得在公路、草甸中上下行进，据说阿里狮泉河的飞机场也在这里。
“战车”行驶在公路上，不时的化油器喘吐故障表现出来，经过简单检查，确定后是，由于阿里地区的油料很脏，杂质很多，把化油器的滤清器堵塞，平路上需油不多，而一上山，急需油量也大，而化油器的堵塞，从而使供油不畅，发生喘吐，临时地清洗、加快车速，而一会故障依就。不管他”，到狮泉河再说。夜色越来越深，上山的公路越来越陡，发动机不时地喘吐，又影响到上山的速度，平时三挡可上的坡道，不时还用一挡稳着车速才行。前面灯光下可见的路面，更显四周一片漆黑。“不好”，有人挡道拦车，被迫停车后，真是虚惊一场。“师傅，帮我修修车哦！发动不了”。一辆北京“战旗”停在路边，帮忙检修电路正常，只是不来油，拆下油管通电后无油，电油泵坏了，只好用自流油方式，保持怠速运转，返回狮泉河吧。
好在下山的公路用油不多，下坡的时速还能保持近50公路时速，地极光在天边闪着耀眼的五色光，阿里草原的夜风又使气温聚降，吹起满天尘土，不见路面轮廓，只好紧盯前面小车的灯光。 “战车”不时绕行在草甸、沼泽之间来回穿梭，好在刚才的善意，有了回报。危险的河流、水坑，前车用应急灯提醒，紧跟前车轮迹，否则，真是易在河流中迷路，水坑中陷身。夜半
10点，才到狮泉河。
海拔4300米的行署所在地，两横一竖的主要街道，只是现代化的设施要多一点，早晚的温差很大。但是，经过近10天的长途艰辛，还是把这里比做天堂一般的美好。
稀饭、馒头、豆浆、油条久违的食品，美美吃上一顿。上街找修理厂保养车况和发动机的胶垫更换，还需返回1800公里外的拉萨，再买一个备胎才行。这里什么都比内地贵得多，全靠公路艰难运输。
翻越“狮泉河大板”进入苍茫的草原，山势更显荒芜凄凉，山体呈现黄色山崖，也没有了土灰色的深沉。电杆随着公路而延伸，西部干燥的气候，更使尘土飞扬，快到日土右边的山崖岩画，也被人工加工的经文占去半壁山崖，只是极少的岩画还是可见。 18公里外的湖面，便是“
班公错”，蔚蓝的湖水反射着强烈的阳光。公路顺着弯延的湖边而绕行。
车籍引来战士的围观，从那里来？ “成都”，“我在这里一年，还没有见过成都的车来”。
满口川腔，引来“老乡见老乡，两眼泪汪汪”之感，拿出成都代来的香烟“熊猫、国宝”尽显大方。何况，他乡遇故知呢！
鸟岛已没有大雁迁移的风景，尽剩下满岛废弃的蛋壳和鸟窝，只是还剩下海鸥和水禽小鸟。
快艇搅动的湖面，引来海鸥的追随，不时冲向水面，雕起水中小鱼，随着波浪的四散，阳光层叠的反射着光带、倒影、海鸥、浪花，构成一幅“天高任鸟飞，海阔任鱼跃”之美。船主的多言，摆着“班公错”的趣闻，从印度潜水艇偷运淡水到11月的某一天，会在1夜之间全面结冰封冻的自然奇观。
新藏公路的来往车辆，就比来时多了。夜行的货车构成长长的光带，好在草原公路笔直宽阔，互不影响车速，流星不时拖着长长的尾巴划过夜空，远处的地极光，闪着耀眼的光芒，感觉是身陷雷爆闪电之中，真是美景！
三、西藏阿里北线：
8月25日，我们相约到市场，补充回程食品及物品。为了保险还是多加60公升备用油，这里的汽油真的是“白油”，有味无色，而且很脏。
一出狮泉河，顺着森布藏格河流逆流而上，山体碎石撒满路面，放慢车速，尽量避开尖状石块，保持中速，胎压稍低。否则，外胎钢丝不知什么时候，又会被扎坏。也许是归心似箭的感觉，还是经受到南线的艰苦考验，这样的路面，不在话下之意，110公里的革吉县城，3个小时就到了。
森布藏格河谷平坦的地段，只需向东而行，放牧的马群，羊群众扬四蹄飞奔，与车赛跑一般，映如眼帘的美景，只需在飞奔的车内，就可而拍。进入帮巴，道路一分为二，抄近道吧，，
草地被碾压的痕迹，指示着行进方向，最好别离开轮迹视线而行。否则，忽然出现的山沟，定会使你手忙脚乱一番。路上偶尔出现的帐篷游牧民、打着招呼手势，只是他们硕大的牧羊狗，
狂犬追赶在我们后面，随着时间和里程的增加，还不见公路的位置，还是错过了多达十几条的便道，选择一处高坡，手握望远镜，寻找草地上唯一的路标。 “光榄桩”只是标桩不到50公分，需用耐心而已。一望无际的草原太大，想问路也找不到人，前面的小黑点映入眼前，是帐篷，经验告诉我们。放牧的游牧民，为了交易的方便，帐篷都会离公路很近的。
雄巴乡，只有十几户人家的小镇，破旧的土屋，分离在公路的两旁，公路穿镇而过。休息片刻，好奇的藏民围着“战车”东看西瞧地问到：“朋友，那里来哦？”“成都来哦。”“哦呀，远远地来。能开到这里。车好哦，卖不？”我们一听哈哈大笑：“我们怎么回去？。
沼泽地里的黑颈鹤不慌不忙的悠闲的寻找食物，根本没有怕人之感，女人鲜艳的衣饰都会引起她的舞蹈动作。拍吧，拍下在自然的环境中的身态，没有路标的公路一分为二，看一看路面痕迹，好象走右边，左边是不起眼的便道，看地图右边有一个湖面，而地图所指示是到亚热，
左边到盐湖，根据地理位置分析，走左边。在阿里地区行车公路和地图常开玩笑，向右转的方向，而公路即是直行。
上到山岗，几十只藏羚羊，悠闲在草地上漫步，看看宽阔的草原，好奇心驱使我们向“她们”开去，随着距离的缩短，藏羚羊突然的四散跑开，使得不知追哪一只好，这也许是动物逃生的本能吧！ “我要是狮子，也不知追哪一只好”。随着夜色的降落，山坡上的牧民也在赶羊进圈，“前面有狼”牧民善意地告诉我们：“不能过夜哦！不要停车”。话声未落，在前面的山坡上，一大两小的身影出现在我们眼前。真是有牧场的地方，就有狼群的出现。
盐湖，座落在地图上都没有名字的湖边，镇上到处都是拉“镁矿”的货车。人来车往的小镇，好不热闹，找到一家能说汉语的饭馆，草草地就算解决一顿晚饭了。
外面的汽车喇叭把我们从梦中惊醒，安装好液化器的炉灶，喝着浓浓的咖啡，查看地图，计算里程时间。
随着光榄桩向后移动，“战车”时左时右地在草地穿行，只要光标桩，在我能看到的范围，
就会加快速度，有时还可达70公里时速。久违的尘土，显示公路的方向，也显万马奔腾齐杨灰土场景。不是出现的草滩水凼，都被急速绕过。直上直下的河流岸堤，使得“战车”急下、急上的……。路在车轮下快速后退，惊起草丛中的雀鸟直飞云霄。
“藏热布错”湖边的野鸭，悠闲地游荡在宽敞的湖面，湖中小岛倒影着美丽的身影，望着四周无人的荒原，真是“天大、地广、天苍、地茫。”也难怪游牧民们，见到有人路过，定会挥手和兴奋一番。
洞错湖到了，本应分路，还是不见岔道，判明方向，往南，只怪草原公路太长，缓慢的调整方向。没有明显急左急右的岔口，何况，草原阵风把沙土和公路连成一片，常使你不知行驶在那个位置。
随着山势的变化，道路越来越难行，山顶的积雪，表明山体的高度，风化石铺成的路面，威胁着车胎的安全，放慢车速，天色渐晚。金黄色的余辉，照亮山顶积雪，行驶在山底谷地，还有150公里才到错勤。草原已被夜色笼罩，使我不得不放慢车速，漆黑一片的草地，时影时现的车迹，又担心迷路的危险。
草原的灯光和天上的星光混在一起，只是近处的狗叫声，引起我们的注意，狂畎的草原藏狗被主人喝住。一问，才知这是达雄乡。好客的主人，介绍这里的吃、住、风景，留下吧。为了明天的美景。
拉开窗帘，阳光投射的光芒，促使我们收拾好睡袋，踱步门外，路边近处就是美丽的双湖，
一个呈现绿色，一个呈现深蓝，非常漂亮。美丽的“扎日南木错”又在远处阳光下闪闪发光。碧绿的湖水，蔚蓝的天空，山冈上的黄花、遍山的牛羊、美丽的景色，定会使你忘却路上的辛劳，换来心情愉悦。
一进错勤河谷湿地草原，雨季留下的难题，常把货车陷在谷地，等待同行的救援。对道路不熟悉的我们，还得万分小心。排水沟经常挡道，不时还得另寻出路才行。有时，还是身陷谷地的同行，指明方向，看看他们困境，报以同情和无赖的微笑。
河谷地段的藏羚羊，野毛驴时时在你车前出现，远山河谷尽显“她”的身影。山连山，坡连坡，看看里程的增加，放下沉重的心情，南北线终于快被我征服了。
山涧的温泉，蒸汽升腾，烟雾迷茫的远山，展露身影的雄姿。 “格布日”山峰，带着金色的皇冠，我现在只是一个匆匆的过客而已，无心留恋你的美丽。
七曲18湾的山路，尽量保持车身的稳定，过度磨损的钢板胶套，不时使车身横摆，“哈哈，
我们出来啦。 ”欢喜地惊呼。一条丁字型的路口，南北线的分路标，再熟悉不过了，兴奋的我们，在车灯照耀下，抚摸它模糊的字迹……。
南线进、北线出的“天路”回转，独闯已经预示我的成功，经过15天的抗争，路途的艰辛、
困苦、危险及美丽的景色，那心情，真实血与火、生与死的感受。自然的力量是宏大，而我们人，只有顺应，才能成功。
22道班的灯光，吸引着我们的狂奔。路边的餐馆发出诱人的香味，破例叫上啤酒、红烧土豆，有什么好吃的都摆上。临桌看到我们的兴奋心情，引来好奇的目光，惊讶之神，听着我们的经过，看着尘土的“战车”，不住摇头赞叹。 “阿里屋脊，天路之难，我们回来了”。
四、回到拉萨：
好运，总是将临我们。检查车况，看到满身伤痕的“战车”，经过3800公里的折磨，这时才发现风扇的叶片不知什么时候断掉一片，而水箱完好无损。没有修理店，没有备件，只好对角折断，临时凑合。水箱的底座脱焊，用橡皮筋固定代用，底盘横梁已经折断，只好不用。发动机胶垫损坏，铁丝捆扎，明天还要到珠峰脚下，回程的路上，路况不在话下，只是担心车况了。 “还是到拉孜修理吧”。
驶入318国道，路旁的地质结构非常明显，好似地理课堂。小孩们手拿水晶石，跑在车的前面，不时的叫买。时而在乱石堆中爬行，时而破水勇行。
嘉错拉山口的狂风，在5200米的高空肆疟，8000米以上的雪峰，露出她的身躯。下山的路是乎好了一点，路边的温泉池里，冒着热气，男女同浴的景观，使我们见惯不惊……。
一出定日县城，“鲁鲁卡”边防站的老兵，一眼认出去年来过，“今年又来了？”好似老朋友地热情招呼，优先登记放行。
过桥向左转，珠峰路标特别明显。去年改道完成的盘山公路，也比去年好多了，真是宽敞平坦，好奇地数落回头转道的次数，上下山共计240个回头湾。望着路边残存的土屋，回想去年的艰难，在什么地方坏车，在什么地方晒太阳，一一告诉他们，今年运气真好，不到四个小时，已抵达大本营。
寻找去年留下的纪念品，荡然无存。高原寒风呼呼作响，寒风夹着冰雹砸了下来，盖上大本营的纪念章，了却他们到此一游的心愿。风雪迟迟不停，迷蒙的雪花已把山体染白，风向的移动，预示今天无缘再见到美顶，好在来的路上抓拍，算是安慰吧。
拉孜好好地休息一夜，告别好客的老板娘，“错拉山”的塌方堵住去路，不时有上坡而来的小车，紧檫车身而过。 “怎么上来的？”上前一看，陡峭的山体，倾斜着车身而上，旁边还要操作不当而侧翻的6200“巡洋舰”，考虑自己怎样下去？
为了他们安全，让他们下车步行，用低速2驱方式下山。顺着前车的来路，绕过容易使车身侧翻的岩石，侧斜着车身，不时还得修正倾斜度，停车急打方向，直角转向的方式缓缓下山。
回头望着下山路，座在草地上，望着后面下山的车辆，提醒他们。下山的司机报以真诚的微笑和感谢之言。
后面的车辆已经远远地抛在身后。 318国道5000公里纪念碑立在路边，路边的藏族小孩马上跑了过来，“糖、笔，”小两口的慷慨大方派送，使小孩们满载而归，镜头里面留下“花猫”似的小脸。望着剩下的礼物，好奇的问到：“还有那么多呢？”哦：原来“阿里地区无人可送”
“战车”行驶在江孜的路上，宽敞的柏油路，时速可达90公里小时，江孜白塔（十万佛塔）抗英台，都是必到的景点。围着白塔绕塔一周，宽敞的大殿，感激“她”的建筑和工艺水准，从塔西的入口蹬上塔顶，纵观全城容貌，何曾想到“她”还是一座“英雄城”。
顺着向东的方向，水库公路曲折难行，前几天的泥石流，随处可见。上河下沟过泥潭，只是“宁今抗沙，山峰、白雪岩岩，”强烈地反射太阳的光芒，公路缓缓而上，“卡若拉”山口冰川近在咫尺，路过的游客借机拍照，强烈的山口寒风，吹得人们站立不稳，最后一天的行程“
小俩口”不愿放过任何机会，狂拍一番，真是来一趟不容易，满足他们吧。
前面就是“羊湖”，县城坐落在湖边。宝蓝色的湖面，陪衬着“她”的美丽，公路绕湖边而行，有50多公里，绕行在湖边，山体不断变化“她”的美丽，美景不断。翻上5030米的“岗巴拉”山口，远处地雅鲁藏布江好似腰带的回绕。轻松的下山，便是曲水、雅鲁藏布江大桥，刚上柏油路面，真是好事多磨，发动机风扇皮带断了，只剩下一根，不管他了，回到拉萨再说。
路旁的白桦树，已经露出淡黄色，才离开20天，草甸水草也红了，连雅鲁藏布江水也变得清泽多了。归家心切，一首“回到拉萨”的歌曲，伴随着归来之心。
经过21天的艰苦历程，行驶近5000公里的拼搏，朋友们早已等待在进城的路上。看着我们的到来，齐鸣喇叭，车未停稳，朋友们一拥而上，互相拥抱，笑着、闹着，总算到家了。接风、
洗尘，今晚在岗拉美朵聚见。
Author: zhaobin11
