Tibet travels

Tibet travels Introduction: It was so in love with a wandering life I do not know what the reason, I liked wandering, perhaps from the restless nature factor. I remember a child, I grew up in a school essay, wrote their own post-wishes: pack up your things, to remote and beautiful place. "As long as a road in the world, there Sheung," and human beings are born with their feet, it is doomed to keep walking on the road. I like a person the feeling of walking on earth: Heaven and Earth vast, uninhabited, from time to time surprise emergence of mountains and rivers, the distant wind and sing with their own breath-Yin wandering song. This time I hit the road on her own huge backpacks, destined for a long time Hunqianmengying the snowy Buddhist Tibet, and that little piece of heaven Heights width, you can see the vast firmament of the earth, that one so far away from the hubbub from the gods so close to a mysterious plateau.

1. Holy city of Lhasa City, accompanied by the assembly of sunlight six partners: Xiaomei (male), my colleagues, is very thin, so that his friends heard that he will want me to Tibet, are worried about not lean into the photo let me take return; Lao Yang, the tall and mighty, worship of Bruce Lee, from Bruce Lee in a set of VCD realize all the way 2 stick work, often performing to us, though every time his fight is not a light with ease (in this Moderator Note: in vain! I am playing extremely fast); China Costa, Guangzhou, thin but muscular uplift, although the big deal a few days than I do, but because of their striving to become the vanguard of everything, Emergency first, enjoy After
We are the people being turned to Colombia; the other three girls in Guangzhou, small hope, short hair handsome looks quiet, pleasant, but loses his temper he is also a blast showers, love to laugh, and laugh together on the rampant income, very personality of the girls; small group, we love to laugh, a smile on the wrinkled nose, very cute, but often need to massage what bridge of the nose to prevent premature wrinkles; small Yun, spoke with exaggerated expressions, accompanied by violent gestures, was often ridiculed as "brandish a knife chopping." I, Lao Yang, small hope, small groups, small Yun, as well as a boy Xiao Xu of Sichuan, last year's "XI" smart on the beautiful western Sichuan Siguniangshan this year's "Spring Festival" Also perfect mountain climbing in the western Hunan style such as water, Meet with the tour again, this time in Tibet, I do not know how many years before repair of the fate of cultivation, we must know that "a hundred years of cultivation the same boat."
Unfortunately, Xiao Xu because of his work can not get away, but it has joined the Xiaomei, China Colombia two new forces.
The evening of August 25 and I Xiaomei 7 times the train ride from Beijing to Chengdu. Along the way, the train announcer constantly put Han's "Tibetan Plateau", as if, like to know where we are going to make us feel even more urgency into Tibet.
August 27 early in the morning in Chengdu, Xiao Xu Trustee to get us to buy a ticket. Xiao Xu did not see that he had a business trip to the field. Back there again, still living in last year's "11" when you live in West China Tour Siguniangshan hotels, but also recalled the scene at the time of joy, but also even more looking forward to see a small hope of their earlier three.
Plane delayed nearly three hours, until 15:00 before taking off from Chengdu Shuangliu Airport set adrift must face a variety of possible scenarios, calm face.
After less than 2 hours of flight the plane landed at Gonggar Airport in Tibet. When I first set foot on solid ground, breathing the fresh air, bathed in bright sunshine in the plateau, I am excited at the heart cries: Tibet, I finally came. The road from the airport along the Brahmaputra, Brahmaputra bridge over Qushui soon saw the steep slopes has long been known for the big Buddha. 90 kilometers away, more than an hour, at 18 o'clock on August 28, I finally entered the holy city of Lhasa, the Potala Palace and saw the magnificent golden dome. Lang admitted to eight school hotel, rest for a while, and I Xiaomei the streets teach you on the last straw. For the first time exposure to full of Tibetans in Lhasa streets, what are full of curiosity, visiting the very very happy. In a night market, we are eating mutton string of children, drinking beer and two Lhasa, the Tibetan girl chat. When they learned that when we arrived in Lhasa, can not help but point to tell us drink less beer, drinking beer, can easily lead to mountain sickness. We are also a bit surprised to heard that before the terrible reaction to high altitudes, but we do not have any discomfort, may occur after the bar.
At this point, than we start the first week, take the Qinghai-Tibet line into Tibet China Colombia them are coaches on the drive to Lhasa. They originally planned Sour Milk Drinking Festival Drepung Monastery in time for drying before the Buddha arrived, unexpectedly fell ill in Golmud, the most serious of small Yun also Zhuliaoliangtian hospital. Disease is cured, after briefly shaken, they are still sub-two sets of children, the courage to embark on a long Qinghai-Tibet road. The Lao Yang also God, he was given a project to be done, do not intend to go. However, the morning of August 28 received a small hope that they sent a postcard from Xining to think we are happy to play in Tibet, and he was involved in Beijing, suffering, loss of too much. So he took leave of absence at noon, afternoon, bought train tickets, night riding on a train bound for Chengdu. The afternoon of August 31, when the children reach four of us set aside at last eight Lang school hostels to join when the excitement of the scene just as much as a warm red one, the victory of the Fourth Army joined forces.
The laid-back living in Lhasa, the Tibetan language, the "pull" is a God, "Sa" is the land, "Lhasa" means that God or in the Holy Land. Since the beginning of the seventh century, the Tubo ZAP (the king) Songtsan moved the capital from the Shannan Prefecture, Tibet has been, this ancient city has experienced 1300 years of years of vicissitudes. As Tibetan Buddhism to replace the primitive religion of Tibet - Bon religion of Tibet, as well as a rule, the Fifth Dalai Lama to accept the canonization of the Qing government to become Tibet "theocratic" and the leaders and moved to the Potala Palace from the Drepung Monastery Since the changes in the history of Lhasa in Tibet has become the political, cultural centers and sacred sites of Tibetan Buddhism. Solemn majestic Potala Palace, the sacred Jokhang Temple, as well as the three major monasteries in Lhasa - Ganden, Drepung, Sera, led by the size of the temple, attracting countless devout believers traveled, many people knock the life-sized Long heads the hearts of the holy city of pilgrimage.
8 Lang Science hotel and the auspicious day we later lived in hotels and guest houses in Beijing East Asia from the Jokhang Temple, the Potala Palace are all very close, is the first choice for the road. Our days in Lhasa is relaxed, the city is not only abundant sunshine and fresh air, more of a spirit of relaxation were not scattered people to breath. Even those of us who took a holiday, the loss of the salary hastily and Streams, in such an atmosphere is not feel arbitrary, scattered up. We can sit in hotel corridor to enjoy the warm sunshine on the bench, you can also idle gaze the blue sky clouds change, or we get together happily playing "run fast." Time seemed to suddenly become abundant, and long, and this lack of time, the feeling of oppression in the fast-paced city life in fear that it is impossible to understand. I think this is the generation who did all the surrounding buildings of temples, each household on the roof of the five-colored streamer flapping in the wind and floating in the air plume of smoke on Mulberry, in such situations, any person who will be complicated thoughts unconsciously calmed down. It is in this rare leisurely around us, we visited a number of attractions around Lhasa, but also once again by his thick shock of historical and cultural heritage.
Potala
September 1 afternoon, we go to visit the Potala Palace. 40 yuan a ticket was a bit distressed, and hope that the Potala Palace will not disappoint. Climbing up along the wide stone steps, this temple of Tibetan Buddhism since the successive Dalai Lama after the Dalai Lama V驻锡land from us getting closer.
The Potala Palace was built in Songtsan era, was destroyed several times, until 1645, V Dalai Lama in Tibet, "theocratic" after the leader of the reconstruction. V Dalai Lama passed away, the VI Dalai Lama continued construction, was completed in 1693. Potala Palace, built at an altitude of 3770 meters of Putuo Mountain, the relatively high 115 meters, formed by the White House and the Red Palace, the White House and the royal government and chambers in the main for the Dalai Lama where the Red Palace was built after the V Dalai Lama passed away, the main body of the Dalai Lama, Lama Temple and the Buddhist temple.
With a constant stream of foreign tourists and pilgrims of the Tibetans, we start from the White House tour. This Tibetan temple in mind, like a heritage, treasures a broad array of museums, may be too many things to see, let us wander in the meantime, could not bear to leave. One of the most noteworthy are the following few: Most Excellent Sanjie Hall, which enshrines the portrait of Emperor Qianlong and the tablets, the above with the Han, Tibetan, Manchu, Mongolian writing on four kinds of "Long live Long live the emperor of today." AD 7th century king of holes and Paba Lacan for Songtsan times ancient buildings, according to legend Songtsan was in this self-cultivation. V and XIII Dalai Lama Dalai Lama must-read, it can be called 2 Lama is the highest gold content of the tower, and the countless treasures of gold and all kinds.
It spent 10 yuan on to the Potala Palace, the dome on the roof decorated with golden lotus bell-shaped, ranging from the size of Mani wheels, people like à 1 clouds cover the sun was up, we waited a while to go on. I was not willing to miss the sunlight so the dome when the glittering spectacle when the sun shines on the golden dome a second. Look at their lamas reasonable, when I explain the situation, readily allowed to go. I think that in other area, is sure to make you go to re-buy a ticket, or monks with people. Once again up to the golden dome, and finally captured the most spectacular golden dome.
Jokhang Temple and Ramoche
The afternoon of September 5, but also a sunny weather. Join us to visit the Jokhang Temple. Much of the saw in front of the Jokhang Temple Jinding golden wheel of two deer lying magnificent shining light to the whole body prostrate prostrate in front of the devout believers in spreading Buddhism glory.
Jokhang Temple was built in the mid-seventh century AD, Songtsan moved the capital Lhasa, this piece is shaped like a valley of the witch Yang Shen's clothes. Princess Wen Cheng divination concluded that here is a witch's heart, you can construct a temple in this town of magic, so the construction of the Jokhang Temple. Jokhang Temple in the original tablets of the princess of Nepal-foot statue of Sakyamuni brought about not move like a. However, with the Princess Jincheng to Princess Wen Cheng brought from Chang'an Sakyamuni a life-sized, like 12-year-old moved to the Jokhang Temple, Jokhang Temple and the position of the eyes of the faithful more sacred. The main building is the Temple of Jokhang Temple, the Temple center of the most prominent is that release gamma Muni Fo Temple, dedicated to Princess Wen Cheng brought forward to release gamma Muni Fo seated. Front of the statue, in this respect must not forget the promise of a good wish, it was stated here to make a wish is a very efficacious. I also pious Baifu go promised his desire to address the Buddha Gaya able to meet my most earnest wish. There is a circle around the temple by turning the winding corridors, and many believers recited the verse, turning each and every turn by the barrel. I think the film between the two by turning the barrel flash across the face of devout believers should be a good idea, it took a lot of standing there. Jokhang Temple stood the dome, you can look down a long shot in the head knocking Teramae people. But I always felt as if he himself was paying homage to accept their most pious, some uneasy, so carelessly took a few to hurry away. Can also be distant from here beheld the magnificent Potala Palace, with a telephoto lens from here shoot the Potala Palace is a good angle.
After visiting the Jokhang Temple, we see Ramoche Temple, a Lama was stopped at the door, so buy a ticket, 20 yuan each. Everyone feels that too expensive, and thus sending out a small hope, small group, small-Yun 3 "Gentleman killer" to lobby. Helpless janitor Lama nothing being done, three beauty in his eyes is just 3 Chou Pinang only. The "honey trap" failed, it was unanimously decided not to get in.. So regardless of gatekeeper Lama to stop, take pictures after the flutter away. From the outside, the Ramoche size much smaller than the Jokhang Temple is Tibet Tibetan Buddhism by Lu attend the last secret House.
Norbulingka Norbulingka, which means "precious garden", the park is mainly 7-14 Dalai Lama's villa. Designed specifically for the Dalai Lama, the main building to see a play Kangsong Si wheels, conducting religious ceremonies and the Dalai Lama's office in the summer pudding Lacan, as well as the Dalai Lama Kelsang quite Chapter VII (palace), 13 golden Dalai Lama quite Chapter XIV Dalai Lama's up to Dan-ming said in his Tibetan performing arts groups, we do not make it go, only briefly looked at the periphery slower to catch, did not leave a deep impression, but that different parts of the clothing is very beautiful. The group is too crowded so I became much more interested people to the Garden to reduce, especially the small number of girls hope that they are all clamoring to hurry away, they have visited the street was anxious to go.
To street was more in-depth understanding of some of Lhasa, visiting the street was no choice but to, can not say. Street was a circle around the Jokhang Temple streets, is also transferred through the middle of the road. In relation to him, inside the "capsule profile" is the Jokhang Temple inside the circle by turning the corridor; out there, "Lin Kuo," is around the Potala Palace in Lhasa, including a turn in the old town. Sunset every day, people come from everywhere to form a stream, a vast crowd kept for clockwise rotation around the Jokhang Temple. This is one of faith and his ilk, mixed crowd, all kinds of posture, and some walking calmly, some hurry, but in any case, they are immersed himself in religious piety prayer, kept walking forward. Place in them, even if a non-believers who will roll into the helpless, is a mysterious and powerful force pulling forward and become one of them.
Meanwhile, the street was also a secular world. Streets full of small vendors selling arts and crafts, these Tibetans in fluent English, blond, blue-eyed "foreigners" to sell goods, or proficiency in Putonghua and visitors from the Mainland bargaining. Is one such street was a blend of religious and secular two distinct styles of spaces. Pilgrims, tourists, different sects of monks, ascetics, beggars, thieves, ... ..., all kinds of different identities that people who have different objectives converged on this old street, the staged scenes, or the religious or secular, human drama .
Street was also a small look, small groups, small Yun three girls favorite place to go. When they mysteriously disappeared three times, we will be carefully several boys said: The three girl, went to spending. But every time they come back to show us would excitedly buy some small stuff: necklaces, bracelets ah, bag, small or something, a look of satisfaction. And we can not bear to sweep their Hing, were always going to want to praise something. Our boys only a few pairs of knives are interested in harvesting a lot of this row.
Drepung Monastery, Sera drying Buddha
August 29 (the Tibetan calendar, June 30) is the first day of Sour Milk Drinking Festival, there is sun in the Drepung Monastery Buddha ceremony.
Here, I think we should talk about the origins of Sour Milk Drinking Festival. "Snow" that is yogurt, "Dayton" to sacrifice, "Sour Milk Drinking Festival," which is dedicated yogurt festival. It originated from the Drepung Monastery, Tibetan calendar every year June 15 to July 30, 7700 the monastery monks, are religiously based inside the mosque "for the summer," not at liberty to go out soon so the larvae hatch Tasi. "For summer" period, the temple of the donor came to express sympathy and blessings promotions yogurt. V Dalai Lama驻锡Drepung, many Tibetan groups have also come for the monks performed, thus forming a fixed holiday, a dedicated yogurt June 30 Tibetan calendar every year called the "Snow Burton Drepung," and more pei Wuzi mountain stage show to display a huge Buddha statues of Buddha, to promote Buddhism. Beginning July 1 as "Snow Norbulingka Dayton," around the Tibetan song and dance, Tibetan opera groups take turns performing four days for the monks, the people watching.
Less than 5 o'clock the morning, he was awakened by the street car, and today's Lhasa earlier than usual waking 3,4 hours. Cried out Xiaomei (the others were not to), played for Santana cars went straight to Drepung Monastery. Days, or a dark, but still visible in the dark stream flow is not decisive move Drepung direction. To the Drepung foot of the mountain a little before 6 o'clock, sky is still black, Woliang exudes Yi Gu wrapped mixed in the flow of people in the smell of mutton sheep Paqu hill. We just arrived yesterday, Pa Qi Shan Plateau to the pace of an extremely heavy and breathing becomes rapid rise. To make matters worse since the thick roadside simmering Tibetan Sang smoke, choking may Wolia some suffocation. Great difficulty with the flow up to the Drepung Monastery, and then along the mountain pilgrimage to the exhibition Buddha Taiwan. Woliang the show south of Taiwan on the slopes of the Buddha found a location, a good tripod frame. At this time, was barely dawn, but the show has been packed around the Buddha Taiwan was full of people, most of them devout Tibetans, which mixed with some Chinese and foreign tourists.
About 7 o'clock, Drepung Monastery Lane sounded forceful Fahao sound far off, a team of monks dressed in red Sengyi lined up to go out. Is open in front of the Fahao and several great lamas, monks carried behind the big Buddha. They slowly on the ground to show the top of the Buddha Taiwan.
About 8 o'clock, show the Buddha ceremony officially started. Monks who will be a huge Buddha statue from the show rolling swiftly to the top platform, and then together with a rope force will be covering the statue on the white pull. As a result, large Buddha gradually rendered the broad masses of followers before the first lotus throne, then the chest, neck, face, when a colorful display in front of everyone Kuang completely when the Peoples of boiling over. We chant in unison, flooded large Buddha statues, will Hada, flowers, printed texts and paper tossed large Buddha statues, or the Bai Fu up in front of the statue a long time refused to. Buddha show the stage of a big tent three Drepung Lama followers touched for the ceremony, many of the faithful rushed to accept the blessings of charity money and goods.
Fahao sounded, streamer fluttering. The sound of chanting monks and the faithful echo in the four weeks. Everyone looked up with a devout expression between heaven and earth with a big Buddha, the Buddha of the bathing experience. Buddha by this pious atmosphere of infection, I also can not help but clap your hands together silently salute to the statue. But I knew that I will never understand the feelings of the Tibetans at this time, because in my eyes only see a huge Buddhist statues, but in the eyes of the Tibetans is the Buddha. From Taiwan to carry out the Buddha and I Xiaomei visit to the Drepung. Drepung Monastery is located in the western suburbs of Lhasa, more Pei Wuzi mountain was built in 1416. Terauchi important buildings, including measures chin hall, the four Zhacang, Gandan Phodrang, as well as more than 50 Kang village. We should pay particular attention to the temple of Jampa pass Zhenfo Jampa Buddha enshrined in the 8-year-old bronze statue of a Triton. Is said to be relics of Sakyamuni, a magic weapon for the Drepung Monastery in the town. From time to time around the Tibetan people from Wo Liang hurriedly walked to each pay homage to a statue, into the Bong property, to the inside of each cup butter lamps add the butter, its pious demeanor I can not help but reflect: Tibet's snow-covered country in the name of Buddha indeed well-deserved reputation. The phone rings, my spirits from the illusory world back to reality, a small look them up. Back to hotel at noon to see them, everyone was happy. Xu Xujiu had intended to eat lunch, but when they listen to the big Buddha Sera Woliang said to go to 13 o'clock, when it put away, we should soon see, Woliang have no choice but to accompany beauty of risk one's life. Fighting vehicles rushed to the Sera Monastery, Buddha Buddha indeed still hung in the exhibition stage, compared with the great Drepung Monastery Buddha to be much smaller, far from Drepung's brilliant. When I put this unfortunate news to tell small, when they look, they would be delighted to heart, say that whatever the outcome, to see the Big Buddha, and better than nothing. In the Great Buddha stayed for a while before we go to visit the Sera Monastery.
Sera Monastery is located in northern suburbs of Lhasa salad Wuzi foot of the mountain, from Tsongkhapa's Leg release gamma Yeshe founded in 1419. Temple by Coqen Hall, Giza warehouse, warehouse Abaza Maizha warehouse and 30 composed of Kang village. Yongle Emperor Zhu Di Temple treasure of a gift to benefit West Wing-lok, gamma release version of Buddhist scriptures and a set of eight white sandalwood 18 Rohan, all were found. After visiting the Sera Monastery, Lhasa became exhausted our hurry to go back to celebrate the reunion.
"Heaven Lake" Namtso
September 2, we have seven individuals Toyota rented a 62-type jeep, began a two-day trip to Namco. 8 am start, the jeep was soon out of Lhasa, to the Po Lin weeks on the mountain. Namco originally from Lhasa to Qinghai-Tibet line to go through the Yangbajing went to Damxung, but now Yangbajain in the road, had to bypass Lin weeks, not only have to go a lot of way, but also to endure the pain of bumps. In particular, the seven of us, but also a man sitting in the rear seat of Farm Transporter increases, more Britain had a faint eight Su-7. The first is to lead the charge for Xiaomei defeated more than half an hour, and I am no better where to go, and adhere to more than one hours parking on the pale demanding substitutions. Then Lao Yang is also the powerless. Crucial moment, China Costa Rica to stand up all the way stick to Namco. Halfway, we would like to change a few words on many occasions he had been refused, really Tiehan. However, by Namco, the people could not eat dinner, Collins gone, the tough, after all, are people too. There is such a painful lesson, the return on the road, five slender like a sardine-like crowd of comrades in the back seat.
Car that when hung, the Po, on a dirt road, and soon began to crawl in the rugged mountain road Nyainqentanglha. Has an elevation of more than 5000 meters of Nagen Yamaguchi, west distance, Namco shiny surface of the lake and the distant days are linked together. After the long journey and we can not help but uttered a cheer, and quickly get off the camera shutter sound into one. Down, the car onto the endless expanse of prairie, blue skies, flocks of sheep and cattle wander on the green grass, the scattered several herdsmen's tents, hidden deep in the plains. When our jeep drove through the tents of herdsmen, some herdsmen will come out in kids waving to us cry. In the depths of the broad grasslands, they also do not see a few people throughout the year, some filled with lonely hearts. But our car flash off, leaving them is a deeper sense of loss. What we can do only desperately waved hello to them. Everybody was especially excited, I do not know who fired the first few, we sang in unison. From the pop sing revolutionary songs from the folk songs sung nursery rhymes, everyone seems to make us know all the songs to sing again. In particular the Lao Yang is very funny, in our age where the biggest he has like a "old urchin", often deliberately singing the wrong lyrics or the issue of some strange tone of voice, amused laugh, loved to have been little hope that they even laughed 3 breathe. Also infected the atmosphere of joy in our dumb drivers Tibetan Tashi Dawa, has been a serious face also smile. So laugh, ah, ah trouble without even realizing it, the Nam Co in front of啦.
Nam Co, Tibetan language means "Heaven Lake", elevation 4718 meters, is the world's highest lake. He and Manasarovar, Yamdrok Lake known as the three holy lakes in Tibet, after the westbound Ali, we have had the honor to worship of the other two holy lakes. Speaking of the sacred Namco, Tashi Dawa's told us so one thing: A few years ago, I do not know come from the same gang of people, in the Nam Co boat fishing, catching fish up on shore edge kill dry. That night, covered with dark clouds, strong wind comes up. The next morning, it was discovered that those people, their boats, tents, and kill them disappear without a trace along with the fish. People say this is an angry god holy lakes of the Lake. From then on, nobody dared to fishing here has. Sitting on the shores of Lake stone, blue lake boundless blue sky in the distance and connected together, is so quiet, holy. I also can not imagine a little angry when she looks like, perhaps the face of those of us who kind-hearted person, she is so gentle. Not far from the west, elevation 7111 meters of the main peak towering Nyainqentanglha stood with wide open arms, guarding the sacred waters. The sun gradually sink in the west, in the Nam Co gently whispered singing, we have a romantic evening.
Did not slept at night, from the more than 3600 meters above sea level to an elevation of Lhasa, more than 4700 meters, Namco, elevation 1,000 meters, I have some reaction to high altitudes. Always felt chest dull, a few from time to time we should take a deep breath, head and also some pain. The next morning we asked how, say there are some uncomfortable, Lao Yang also flow a nosebleed, but fortunately there is no big problem.
Last night, Nyainqentanglha down the mountain snow, sky clouds rolling peaks of the next column is very spectacular. We all went to shoot Nyainqentanglha of the main peak, but did not fulfill our wishes, Nyainqentanglha Yamagami those of us mortals do not want to see his sacred face. With a trace of regret, we left the beautiful, Namco, back to Lhasa.
Ali Ali westbound round for many years dream of our group loves to travel "back packer" (backpackers) mind, Tibet is a dream for many years, and in this dream where Ali is one of the most attractive name, the such as deep in the hearts of first love, as from time to time will be well up my mind, people think about a long time. Ali, Napian an average elevation of over 4500 meters, known as the "roof of the world's roof" of the plateau, Napian distant land full of mystery, like a sword of Damocles hanging long days of light, flashing a strange light, draw us to look The closer to him.
Through a friend's introduction, we have to find a good 62 model Toyota jeep, a Dongfeng truck, two cars to be safer to go Ali. Jeep driver named Mike Xu, a pair of eyes is very vivid and it feels honest and reliable. Dongfeng truck drivers called Lausanne, is a shy cute Tibetan boy. Ali later trip, we are a collective of solidarity. However, just in time, but for some reason, a small look back to Guangzhou first, and only told us that we must return to Shigatse. Aware of this news, we all know are having a hard time, especially small look to ourselves and to the trip to Tibet, she is ready for a long time to spend a lot of effort, this will not go Ali, her heart can imagine how disappointed .
But anyway, we finally embarked on a westbound, or Ali's journey, distant Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, Zhada, Guge Kingdom in to our calls.
Ali's road from Lhasa to Ali, the regional capital Shiquanhe town in northern, central, south three lines. The Colombian people because of small Yun and spend more time tight, we have decided to enter from the south line of the south line-out. Basically along the Brahmaputra and the South Line, upon the Xigaze, Lazi, Saga, old Zhongba, paryang arrived in Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, and then go to Rada from the Kailash Mansarovar Yatra, see soil forest and Guge Kingdom. Return the way to go camphor wood, Everest, and Yamdrok Lake. Picturesque scenery of this route, the basic attractions can be reached.
At 3:00 p.m. on September 7, we officially start, started full of hardships and unknown Ali tour. Mercedes-Benz jeep on the road smooth, sunny windows, the Tibetan Plateau villages, rivers, mountains and rivers, as the film release, like flash from the window. The asphalt gradually disappeared, changing to dirt road, but fairly flat. Beyond that will be encountered from time to time after the flash floods washed away by road, our car will be opened under the roadbed in the following detour through the riverbed. Ali had heard that the road Henlan, we are also ready mentally prepared enough, I did not expect such a difficult first day.
Mike Xu listened to our complaints tell us: Lhasa to Shigatse visit this section of track is the best road by now. We can not help but burst into an uproar: The best way so ah. Fast 9:00 at night, we arrived at the post-central city of Shigatse Tibet,
Living in the opposite Tashilhunpo Park Hotel has just nuts.
The next morning to visit Tashilhunpo. Tashilhunpo for the Yellow Sect, one of six Temple. 1447 cases of Aqaba from the master's disciples, I root Dudjom Pakistan created the Dalai Lama, who later became Panchens驻锡地. Temple's most famous statue in the world today is that the largest gilt bronze Buddhist statues Jampa. Jampa Hans called the Maitreya Buddha is, but Tibetan Buddhism, where Buddha strong Pakistani familiar with the Han fertilizer fat, smiling and looks like very different, he ended Zhuang Xiuli, grace elegance, is Buddha mortal things the future after the Buddha. 26.2 meters high bronze statue, consumption brass, gold, diamonds, jewelry numerous types can be described as priceless.
In addition to Jampa Buddha Hall, the buried five to Panchen Lama and the Panchen Lama Temple Lama Temple, have also built a richly deserves a good visit. In addition, the Tashilhunpo huge Buddha Taiwan is also very spectacular show every year Tibetan calendar May 14 to 16-day Buddhist festival Shigatse exhibition will be on display immeasurable Guangfo, and Jampa Buddha Buddha Buddha (past, present, Future Buddha III) and a huge Buddha statues, very spectacular scenes.
Tour End Tashilhunpo, small hope we should go back, and everyone is reluctant to part with some, but unable to restore. "
There is no never-ending feast, "the impermanence of this parting, as long as we like happy times together.
Away a small hope, we are on the same day in the evening arrived at the Lazi county. Had heard that the knives Lazi famous, everyone is getting better placement, and quickly go out and buy. But perhaps the very disappointing, here there is no place to sell a few knives, but also the type of knife rarely, and only a very small type.
September 9, travel on the third day, we have finally experienced the power of Ali road. Today, this plan went to 22 classes, but after Sang Sang Soon after, he was stuck in the road either side of two trucks loaded with goods, blocking this avenue. Soon after the row of a lot of jeeps and trucks, which are mostly of foreigners to travel. Some Jeep would like to go around from the side, but it looks fairly solid ground but getting stuck in them, we can not escape the jeep. We can see that only when the whole kcal unloading of goods vehicles, reducing vehicle weight, will it be possible turnaround, so a vigorous labor began. Tibetans, several Japanese self-help tourists, some European and American tourists and our six mainland tourists, along with hands-on all the goods unloaded from the vehicle kcal. After the empty car, big truck in the crowd cheering finally climbed out of the quagmire. Then, we also work together to help the Tibetan drivers, the goods Zhuangshang Qu, where the country has no ethnic differences, only friendship to help each other in passing.
Delays due to traffic jams, we arrived at 22 o'clock 18th Avenue after more than classes, 22 classes away from the destination, there are 40 kilometers. Watch carefully the first time highland exceptionally clear night sky, the stars in the sky, was able to see clearly a blossoming Youde clouds floating in the sky.
The next morning, starting from the 18th Road classes by Saga arrived in the old Zhongba Driving through the old Zhongba, the landscape has undergone an obvious change, from semi-desert plateau meadow into the prairie. In the evening, we reached the par sheep, stay at Yak Hotel (yak hotel). Hastily went to shoot prairie sunset, rush out of the village, the sun was completely down, and leaving only a few patches of glowing red of the Western Paradise Huoshao Yun. With some disappointment back to the hotel, on the road surrounded by a group of Tibetan children, their curiosity to greet me: "Hello, Hello", seems they put me as a "foreigner." No wonder, to Ali, the vast majority of visitors are foreigners, we have not yet encountered another along the way of mainland tourists. I told them I was Chinese, I want to say "hello", they are very happy. One of the kids look forward to the tube I would like to oil pen, I have only one also used to record accounts of their travels, there is no to him. To see him disappointed and sad, I determined to come to Tibet must take the next lot of the pen, given to these lovely children eager to learn.
The evening, Xu Hui told us: you can arrive tomorrow, holy lakes, and we can not help all excited. These days, we, like chasing the same day of braggadocio to catch up with the sun have been to the west, from sunrise to sunset, the day Ali rough bumps in the muddy road. When they finally arrived in the hearts of the holy places to be when the mind has a near-hand, the feeling of nostalgia even more cowardly.
Sacred Lake Manasarovar
September 11, starting from the par sheep. Because we already know that today will be able to holy lakes, so each person's heart has an anxious expectation. However, the holy lake, as is the intention to test our patience, a long time also refused to reveal her holy face. Xu Hui, see our anxiety, comfort us with a smile: Do not worry, pretty soon. 15:00 or so, the jeep to climb a ridge, a beautiful Mani Dui appeared in front of five-colored streamer fluttering sounds Mani Dui piled around the large range of small rubble, which is faithful to himself Paradise cover accommodation. His head and looking, the holy lake Manasarovar quietly lay there, quiet and serene blue lake. She appeared so silently, though we are psychologically prepared long ago, but still shocked by her beauty. Her beside the mountains of Iriki Nani Peak (elevation 7728 meters), the loyal guards, forever guarding her. Not far away, God Niwa pk hill that shines in the crystal of the snow-capped peaks Gangdese brown mountains above the reflection in holy lakes in the. Xu Hui and Tibetan Lobsang two drivers silently worship service on the ground, we are also in silence, in such a sacred place, a person would melt into the sacred atmosphere.
Manasarovar, which means "eternal unbeaten Lake", 4587 meters above sea level, the vast number of believers in mind the most sacred holy lakes. Christians around the lake turn last week, or picking up something in the lake will be considered to be very auspicious thing. Bathing in the lake, it can wash off in the minds of the "greed, fury and folly, laziness, envy," top five, so that purify the soul. Our jeeps stormed the foot of the mountains of the prairie, the lake took us to St. Tonight, we will be settled in a small village fled. 40 kilometers of grassland mountain, God has always been distant hill Niwa Qi in sight, the holy lake Manasarovar from time to time flashed in front of us, give us surprises, but Iriki Nani peak is just around the corner, more and more away from us close.随着太阳的不断西移，辽阔的草原也不断地变换着色彩，当夕阳涂抹得草原象金箔似的在随风起舞时，那斑斓的色彩令人心醉。
到了目的地，大家来不及卸车，都拿上相机冲向湖边的小山去拍摄夕阳中的圣湖。在高海拔地区爬山可不是一件轻松的事情，当我们气喘吁吁爬到山顶时，暮色已经很浓了。幽蓝的湖面反射着夕阳的余辉，留下一条金色的通道，从这里是否可以去往天堂？夕阳完全隐去了，山崖上的小庙里，经幡被晚风吹得猎猎作响，堆满牦牛头骨的玛尼堆静默无语，万物之灵苏醒在这清脆而寂寞的音响中，随意的漂浮在时空之中。晚风吹来，很冷，我禁不住有些颤抖，赶紧快步走回小村庄。
第二天一大早，大家都爬起来去拍圣湖日出。圣湖边的高原之晨非常冷，大家都穿上了羽绒服。晨雾很浓，大家都有些担心看不到日出。今天我们爬的是比昨天那座小山要高很多的一座山，也就比昨天要辛苦许多。小韫半途放弃了，去找昨天遗失在路上的太阳镜。当我们另外五人终于爬到山顶时，登高望远，圣湖完全展现在我们眼前，纳木纳尼峰好象就在眼前一样触手可及。日出终于没有看到，
东方有很浓厚的云彩，但当太阳终于从云层后射出耀目的光辉时，大家还是禁不住向它欢呼起来。初升的旭日照耀下，宁静的圣湖流光溢彩、辉煌灿烂，象是一位凤冠霞帔的王后，光彩照人地接受着臣民景仰的目光。我们完全被圣湖的美惊呆了，没有人说话，只有快门的脆响在晨风中响起。
回过头，与圣湖相对的不远处还有一片蓝蓝的湖面寂寞地闪烁着幽幽的冷光，那就是鬼湖拉昂错。圣湖是淡水湖，周围牧草丰美，鬼湖是咸水湖，周围寸草不生，也因此被打入另册，成为鬼湖。而此时，在我们这些没有任何宗教感情的旅游者眼里，远处的鬼湖另有一种说不出的凄冷的艳丽。
在村边的浴室痛痛快快地洗了一个温泉浴，这是我们自出发以来第一次洗澡，我们将以一个洁净的身躯去朝拜西藏最神圣的神山岗仁波齐。
神山岗仁波齐峰从圣湖到神山脚下的“塔青”只有二十公里路程，在我们激动的心情还没涨满时，已经站在了神山的脚下，沐浴在他神圣的光辉里。
神山岗仁波齐，意为“雪山之宝”，海拔6656米，为冈底斯山脉的主峰。岗仁波齐同时被佛教、印度教、耆那教和苯教奉为圣地，是四大宗教中最神圣的神山。佛教中的世界中心须弥山即指此山，也是佛祖释伽牟尼的道场；印度教称他为“kalas”（凯拉斯），认为他是宇宙中心，是毁灭之神湿婆的居所；耆那教封他为“阿什塔婆达”，即最高之山，其创始人瑞斯哈巴那刹在此获得解脱；苯教封他为“九重万字山”，其祖师敦巴辛饶自天而降，降落地即为此山。
传说为了争夺神山的归属，佛教高僧米拉日巴与苯教修行者那如苯穷进行了一场斗法。两人比试神变看谁先到达顶峰。比试的那一天，一大早那如苯穷就骑法鼓向顶峰飞升，而米拉日巴还在睡觉。天快亮时，米拉日巴穿好僧衣，乘第一束日光瞬间到达了顶峰。那如苯穷惊得法鼓掉下，顺着山坡一路滚了下去，在神山上留下一条垂直如阶梯的深壑。米拉日巴战胜了那如苯穷，也象征着佛教战胜了苯教，取代苯教成为在西藏占统治地位的宗教。
岗仁波齐之所以被如此多的宗教狂热地崇拜，与其神奇的形状和独特的地理特征有很大的关系。岗仁波齐没有连绵的雪峰，只有一个近似于标准几何形体的孤立雪峰，高傲地耸立在一排平凡的山脉之上。他象一朵含苞待放的雪白的莲花，又似大地母亲一个丰满的乳房，他与天庭离得那么近，在白云中若隐若现。这奇异的形状怎不令人产生出特殊的感情，以至产生出宗教情绪、加以崇拜呢？而西藏人认为西藏高原上的四条大河：马泉河、象泉河、狮泉河、孔雀河都源自冈底斯山。马泉河向东发展成为西藏第一大江雅鲁藏布江，流入印度称为布拉马普特拉河；象泉河进入印度称为萨特累季河；狮泉河向北成为印度河的上游；孔雀河进入印度后成为了恒河支流哥格拉河的上游。这四条大河自阿里出发，向不同的方向，流经不同的地域，奔腾万里后，重又回到同一个归宿--印度洋。这一神奇的事实，好象在冥澹刮颐遣皇欠鸾膊唤鄯谒纳袷サ钠取￡冈底斯宾馆是一个大院里的一圈平房，一个人60元的价格让我们觉得很不值。好在许辉找熟人帮我们找到了一个屋子，只有5张床，有一个人要打地铺，不过我们已经有过打地铺的经历，无所谓了。收拾妥当后，他们5个人打扑克，我换上长焦镜头去拍来转山的藏民。
走出冈底斯宾馆的大院，沿一条小溪两旁搭满了帐篷，来转山的藏民在这里聚起了一个临时的小村落。身穿五花八门、各式藏袍的藏民显示出他们来自藏区各地。他们基本上都是举家而来，上至白发苍苍的老奶奶，下至还在吃奶的幼儿，都来这里转神山。他们一家或几家包一辆卡车，有的人没有钱就徒步而来。来一次要花去他们几年的积蓄，但他们认为很值得，为了心里虔诚的信仰，他们不在乎清贫的生活。一个美丽的藏族女孩端着一盆衣服向小溪边走来，苦难的生活在她年青的脸上过早打上岁月的烙印，我不禁有些心痛。佛教教诲信徒“灵魂不灭，生死轮回”，要信徒修来世的幸福，而甘于忍受今世的苦难。但为了虚无的来世的幸福而放弃今世可以把握的幸福是否值得呢？镜头里的女孩越走越近，美丽但粗燥的脸庞，微蹙的双眉下是一双坚定的眼睛。我知道我永远也无法理解她的想法，我永远也无法体会她的幸福，我们完全是生活在两个不同的世界里，她的世界里只有对神灵的祈祷和对来世幸福的关注，而我的世界里只是希望今生能够快乐。
今天是9月12日，2000年的中秋节。而通讯的不便，使我们无法与远隔万里的亲人联络，只能在心里遥遥祝福。藏族人没有过中秋节的习惯，当我们向店老板祝福时，他有些奇怪，但他还是高兴地同意我们借他的厨房做饭，当然我们要付一定的费用。小群、小韫亲自下厨做出了一桌“还说得过去”的饭菜（我们对待同志们的劳动热情还是应该以鼓励为主），大家举杯互祝中秋节快乐。 2000年的中秋节，我们六个热爱生活、热爱自然的好朋友相聚在岗仁波齐神山脚下，真是很快乐。只可惜小望不在，有种“遍插茱萸少一人”的感觉。吃完饭，我们一起去外面赏月。高原月夜格外明亮，大大的银盘似的月亮在大地上撒下清冷的光辉。漫天繁星大得出奇，低低地闪烁在我们头顶，好象举手一捞就能抓到几颗。白天雪白得没有一丝杂质的云彩现在变成了暗青色，幽幽地挂在天上。我想人间最美丽最清澈的夜色也莫过于此了。头顶的神山在明亮的月光下发出幽蓝的光，住在山上的诸神在这迷人的月色下翩然起舞。高原的夜很冷，他们五个回屋去了。我又独自呆了一??铰·第二天早9点，我们一行6人，踏上了长达五十二公里的漫漫转山路。至于转山的动机，我们谁也说不清。尽管佛说：转一圈，可以洗清本次轮回的罪孽；转十圈，可以洗清一“该巴”（劫）的罪孽；转一百圈，今世可以成佛。但对我们也没有多大的诱惑，我们并不是佛教徒，我们只是关注今生快乐的普通人。而许辉和洛桑两个信徒却不转山，在住处等我们。生活有时候就是这么有趣的产生了错位。
我们带了两个大背囊，一个装大家的睡袋，一个装食物和水，由四个男生轮流背，而大家的相机包也是不小的负担。负重走在海拔将近5000米的高原上，而且还是高高低低的山路，对我们真是一个严峻的考验。幸亏大家都年青力壮，而且来西藏的时间已经比较长，基本适应了高原缺氧的环境。
转经小路蜿蜒在铺满砾石疏草的山基斜坡上，我们6人混杂在络绎不绝的转山者中行进。转山者绝大多数是来自藏区各地的藏民，还有一些欧美、日本的游客，内地游客很少，大概就我们6个。藏民走的很快，他们步履匆匆地超过我们，大多都会回头向我们这6个“奇装异服”的外地人报以好奇而友好的微笑。我们则向他们问候一声“扎西德勒”（吉祥如意）。从转山的方向看，佛教徒占绝大多数，他们和我们一样按顺时针方向转山，迎面而来按逆时针方向转山的苯教徒为数不多，由此也可看出佛教在西藏的统治性地位。
走下一个有美丽玛尼堆的山坡，我们沿山溪进入神山西南侧的谷地。两厢是峥嵘挺拔的山体，山色红褐，很象美国西部大峡谷的景色。今天的天气格外好，瓦蓝瓦蓝的天空上，没有一丝云彩。神山那晶莹的冰冠映衬在蓝天下是那么冰清玉洁，一直陪伴在我们身旁。我行走在这条千百年来无数信徒走过的路上，虽然有些疲惫，心里却渐渐地生出一种喜悦。我觉得就象身处一个依托转山道的顺时针方向的巨大的场中，这个场由煨燃的袅袅桑烟而来，由六字大明咒循环往复的六个音阶而来，由每一个信徒、每一个修行者最虔诚的心愿、最坚定的脚步而来。在这样一个充满神奇力量的场中，行走其间的我也感觉得到了心灵的精华、灵魂的升华。
精神的力量再大，也无法抵抗身体的疲乏。走到下午，大家的步伐越来越慢，特别是小群、小韫两个女孩子，已经有些坚持不住了，走不了多远就要休息一会儿。这时，我们已经走出了西侧的谷地，转到了神山的北面。这时，海拔也要命的一路升高，更加使我们举步维艰。更令人担心的是小韫，她出现了高山反应，头晕恶心，浑身无力。当我们见到一排平房的旅馆时，一致同意住下来，这时是下午??8种穆烦蹋捎谖颐窃ぜ朴昧教熳咄辏淮肆教斓氖澄锖退６遥¤埂⑿∪旱纳硖遄纯觯参薹ㄍ瓿墒Ｏ碌募杩嗦贸蹋源蠹揖龆ǚ牌魈齑釉贩祷亍￡
作出这个决定后，我的心里很不平静，我不想就这样半途而废。经过一天的行走，我已经喜欢上了这样行走的感觉，这种感觉契合了我内心深处渴望行走在大自然中的冲动。而且我觉得凭我还算不错的体质，应该可以完成全程。于是，我向他们表示：我要继续走下去，今天再赶一些路，还是明天赶回住宿地。老杨也不想放弃要和我一起走，于是，我们带上睡袋、相机包和一些巧克力、水，拜托民哥、小梅好好照顾小群、小韫她们后，顾不得休息一会儿，就继续赶路了。
前面的路是一个漫坡大坂，然后翻海拔5600多米的卓玛拉山口，是整条转山道中最难走的一段。我们决定今晚翻过卓玛拉山口，下降到低海拔的地方再睡觉，以免有什么危险。已经走了一天的我们本已就很疲惫，现在又要在海拔5000多米的高原爬山，于是我们开始了今生最艰难的一段行程。
不知不觉间夕阳的最后一丝光辉隐没在天边，夜色降临了，好在农历8月16的圆月照亮了我们前进的曲折山路。这时，我们的前后也没有了转山的藏民，四周静悄悄的，只有我们急促的呼吸声和沉重的脚步声响起在月夜的空气里。我们的体力和身上的热量逐步消耗，冷和累两种感觉越来越强烈的充斥全身。而卓玛拉山口却象在遥远的天边总也看不到他的身影。这时，极度疲劳的老杨好象产生了幻觉，见到一块白色的大石头就说是帐篷，更言之确凿的说前面有一间屋子，但走近了却什么也没有。我有些害怕起来，不停地对他说：就快到了，就快到了。但我也不知到底还有多远的路。这时，有遥远的女子的声音从后面传来，不一会儿就到了我们身后，还没等我们问一句话，就迅速超过我们消失在前面无尽的夜色里。我有些奇怪：是夜里转山的藏族女子吗？还是卓玛拉山神的化身在为我们引路。当卓玛拉山口庞大的玛尼堆和密织的经幡终于出现在我们面前时，我们激动不已。我知道是冥冥中的神灵给了我们力量，使我们可以坚持走到这里。
这时已经是夜里12点左右，我们再也没有一丝力气前进了。也顾不得当初下到低海拔地方再睡觉的打算，我们就再下山的山道上找了一处避风的地方，打开睡袋钻了进去。 5600米的海拔、寒冷的夜风和身下很硌的石头使极度困乏的我们也无法入睡，那种难受的感觉我相信会铭记一辈子。
赏了一夜的月亮，天快亮时才迷迷糊糊地睡去。朦胧中被身边经过的转山的藏民惊醒，他们惊奇的在我??了体力，我们1个小时多一些就下到了山下。这时，我们已经转到了神山的东侧，风景变得不如昨日，两侧多为风化严重的碎石山。谷地里有河流流淌，地面上有草泽。神山被眼前的山峰遮挡，只露出圆圆的峰尖。我和老杨一前一后的走着，由于两天来没有吃多少东西，对食物需求量很大的老杨渐渐有些走不动了。而我却有种渐入佳境的感觉，越走越轻松。于是，我只好先走出一段路，然后坐在路边，一边拍转山的藏民，一边等老杨赶上来。就这样走走停停，下午4点多钟，当我们转过一个山弯，眼前豁然开朗，纳木纳尼峰出现在远方的地平线上，而更令我们惊喜的是：许辉在前面向我们微笑招手。坐上吉普车，余下的几公里路转眼就到了，我和老杨终于完成了这次艰苦而漫长的转山之路。
晚上，厨师出身的许辉亲自下厨为我们做了饭菜，大家举杯庆祝我们转山成功。而已经饿得不成的老杨，已经没有工夫说什么了，狼吞虎咽的大吃起来。
两天的转山经历，现在想起来似乎有很多值得回味的东西，又似乎没有什么值得一提。但我想我还是应该把它记录下来，为了克服困难后完成目标的喜悦，更为了行走在神山脚下时的那一种无法述的精神的欣喜。
扎达土林
9月15日，我们告别了神山，向扎达进发，那里不仅有奇异的地貌，更有神秘的古格王朝在强烈地吸引着我们。吉普车一路急驰，过门士区，于中午到达巴尔兵站。吃过午饭后，一路翻山越岭向扎达进发。
多日旅途劳顿，大家都有些昏昏欲睡，当吉普车停下来时，许辉的声音在耳边响起：看，土林。大家猛然惊醒，争相钻出吉普车，远处一排排，一列列的土柱、土笋呈现在眼前。虽然确实很特别，但由于规模不大，也没有想象中的恢弘气势，我感到有些失望。但我的失望没有持续多久，随着汽车的行进，我们离土林越来越近，渐渐的我们进入了一条土林的峡谷。满眼充斥的都是土林，只有头上的蓝天显出不一样的色彩。原来，从进入土林到扎达县城的四十公里路都是在土林峡谷中穿行，我们在远处看到的只是土林的一角；原来，土林是在慢慢向我们展示其神秘的容颜。扎达，“土林环绕的地方”，果真名不虚传。
现在，我们可以好好地欣赏土林的景色了。峡谷两旁，大面积的土山、土丘长年被雨水冲刷出各种千奇百怪的纹路和形态，如巍然的城堡碉群、如雄伟的土制的神殿、如威武的千军万马，浩浩然展示着他博大壮阔的身姿。岁月的巨手，经过认真地雕镂，完成了这件鬼斧神工的杰作，放置在这里，寂然无语。整个土林峡谷只有我们一台车穿行，四周一片沉寂，时空在这里好象凝??2们抵达了象泉河畔的扎达县城。
此后在扎达附近的经历使我认识到，欣赏土林的最佳时刻应该是在夕阳西下之时。白天强烈的日光下，土林只有一派焦涩灰枯的刻板色彩。在夕阳的斜射下，土林被涂满了赏心悦目的金黄，那些千姿百态的纹路也变得明暗有致、层次丰富起来。那些残缺的、被岁月摧毁的碉楼殿宇也重新焕发出勃勃生机，变得辉煌一片。这时的土林就象是一个神奇的外星球，荒凉空旷，闪动着奇异的金黄色，高悬在阿里高原。夕阳下的土林确实充满一种摄人心魄、让人感动的力量。
古格王朝第二天，我们在扎达县文化局买好去托林寺和古格王朝的门票，准备去探寻这个历时七百余年，创造了空前繁荣文明的王朝为什么会神秘的毁于一旦，只留下那遍布寺庙和洞窟的一座王城，在无声地诉说。
公元九世纪中叶，吐蕃末代赞普郎达玛推行灭佛政策，导致王室集团与僧侣集团的矛盾激化，战乱四起，后被一位僧人刺死，盛极一时的吐蕃王朝走到了尽头。王孙吉德尼玛衮在与其兄争夺王位的斗争中失败，只得远避阿里。后来，依靠当地头人的力量，他创建了一个强大的王国。到了晚年，他为了避免兄弟相争、自相残杀的悲剧重演，将王国一分为三，分封给了他的三个儿子。大儿子选择了云彩会集处的普兰；二儿子选择了云彩弯弯处的古格(扎不让，今扎达)；三儿子选择了云彩最高处的玛隅(拉达克，今日土)，即后来的普兰王朝、古格王朝和拉达克王朝，这便是“阿里三围”的由来。所谓“三围”，是人们对这三地地理环境的形象概括：普兰是雪山环绕的地方；扎达是土林环绕的地方；日土则是湖泊环绕的地方。自此拉开了古格王朝一幕上演了七百余年的历史正剧。
古格王朝自开国之初就确定以佛教为立国之本。第二代国王禅让王位与其己出家为僧取法名益西沃。此时藏地正处于郎达玛灭佛后的“百年黑暗时期”，教法松弛，僧人行为不端。有感于此，益西沃派仁钦藏布赴克什米尔学习显密教法，仁钦藏布学成归来，在益西沃的支持下修建了托林寺，翻译佛经，宏扬佛法，被称为”大译师仁钦藏布”。为筹措迎请高僧阿底峡进藏宏法的黄金，益西沃不顾高龄，亲自率兵攻打噶洛被俘。当其侄孙绛曲沃带等身黄金来赎他时，他却让用此黄金去请阿底峡，而自己引颈就戮。
阿底峡有感于益西沃的献身精神和古格臣民对佛法的虔诚，不顾座前空行母去?藏布也在阿底峡的指导下，获得了殊胜成就。这一时期古格成为西藏西部佛教文明的中心。公元一零七六年在托林寺举行的“火龙年大法会”。更是掀起了佛教复兴运动的高潮，也从此奠定了古格在西藏“后宏期”佛教史上的神圣地位。
任何事物走到极致必然急转直下，所谓盛极而衰。庞大的僧侣集团势力日益膨胀，成为王室统治的威胁。末代古格王为了抑制僧侣集团的势力，在葡萄牙传教士安瑞特勇敢的来到这片佛教统治的土地宣讲上帝的福音时，决定改信天主教，并在古格修建了天主教堂。僧侣集团感到了威胁的迫近，终于发动了叛乱，并引外敌拉达克来攻，于一六三五年灭掉古格。十万古格臣民尽数被戮，一时血流成河，历时七百多年的强盛王朝一朝覆灭。具有历史讽刺意味的是灭掉古格王朝的拉达克王朝，正是吉德尼玛衮为了避免自相残杀而分封给三个儿子的三个王国之一。
托林寺就在扎达县，昔日庄严宏伟的寺院历经战火和文革的破坏，已经看不出当初的规模，只剩下集会殿(红殿)和白殿两个佛殿保存还比较完好。看门人带我们进入大殿，也好象带我们穿越了一千年的时空，回到了千年之前的古格，而当时的盛况也只有在冥想中出现了。托林寺现存最精华、最宝贵的就是壁画，托林寺壁画与古格壁画相似，由于受周边尼泊尔、
克什米尔和印度的影响，风格与西藏腹地颇有不同。托林寺与古格的兴衰存亡息息相关，随着古格的灭亡，也逐步走向衰亡，往日的光荣与梦想，也只能在笔载口传中继续了。古格王朝遗址在扎达县城西面十八公里处的扎不让。为了有好的拍摄光线，我们将近下午三点才出发前往。吉普车穿行于土林之间，经过一个小村庄后不久，一座高高的土山出现在高原强烈的日光下。由于我以前看过很多古格的照片，所以尽管还看不太清楚，但我还是叫了出来：快看，古格。随着吉普车的开近，土山上密密麻麻的洞穴，一道道土墙，一座座土房的断壁残垣，赤裸裸地展示于高原猛烈的阳光下，也展示于我们焦灼渴望的目光里。泥土的山和泥土的房屋的废墟，落寞的矗立在我们面前，超越四百多年的时空，悄无声息地向我们传递着那个神秘王国昔日的盛况。
随着看门的藏族小伙子沿台阶拾阶而上，参观了位于山坡上的保存比较好的四座佛殿，红殿、白殿、护法神殿和度母殿。殿里的佛像大多已被毁坏，或断臂残腿，或只有一个头像，而壁画保存得比较完整。由于地处边缘地带，古格人保持了开放的风气和活跃的思想，他们主动接受来自周边地区尼泊尔、克什米尔、印度等国的文化影响，与自己±'bb带应该是百姓起居的世俗社会。山腰之上，山势变得极为陡峭，快上到山顶时，四面悬崖，只有一个近乎垂直的洞口可以上到山顶。真可称得上是“一夫当关，万夫莫开”。沿洞中的阶梯爬上山顶，也就到了古格的王宫和首脑机构所在地了，这里也是古格的上层社会。山顶上保存比较完好的是一座坛城殿和王宫。坛城殿是古格国王进行一些佛教仪式的场所，里面没有电灯，很黑，需要打着手电参观。王宫不大，大家开玩笑说；照这样的居住标准，我们在古格都相当于国王了。从王宫的阳台可以俯瞰古格全貌，密密麻麻的洞穴和拥挤的房屋废墟完全呈现眼前，恍惚间不禁使人联想到当时的一派繁荣景象，也不禁使人产生疑惑：为什么号称十万之众的古格人要全部聚集在这样一座并不大的土山之上呢？
山顶上视野开阔，环绕古格四周的土林尽在极目之中，象拉达克王国的万千兵马包围在古格周围，昔日两国交兵的惨烈场面仿佛就在眼前：崇信佛教的古格不修武力，在拉达克的围攻下拼死抵抗。险要的地势帮了他们，拉达克一时也奈何不得。凶残的拉达克人在古格王面前每天杀掉一批古格平民逼古格王投降，古格王不忍子民惨遭杀戮，在得到拉达克人投降后一律免死的保证后出城投降。但背信弃义的拉达克人却用屠城来完成承诺，十万古格人尽遭杀戮。历史的真相早已烟消云散，后来人的传说却代代相传，也只有从这样的传说中，古格的历史在继续。
整个古格只有我们6个人，四周一片沉寂，山风吹过，大家都不禁感到一丝寒意。如果真有灵魂的话，那么屈死几百年的十万古格人的灵魂应该还在这里守侯着故土家园。他们漂浮在空中，向我们几个吵了他们清净的现代人张望。大家都有一种说不出的感觉，四周空荡荡的寂静让人感到有些压抑。于是，我们开始大声地说笑，想使这里有一些生气。
但我们的声音瞬时就被这座古城吸收的无影无踪，在这里，永远是旷古不变的寂静。大家默默地坐在王宫附近的一座山顶上，注视着眼前这座神秘而沧桑的古城，等待着夕阳的到来。不知不觉已经到了七点钟，夕阳还不是最好，但我们却不得不下山了，因为在阿里开夜路是很危险的。带着无限的留恋，大家一边拍摄照片一边下山，这一路又耽误了不少时间，夕阳下的古格实在是太美了，大家都想尽可能的多拍一些照片。到了山下，回头再看一眼充满残缺美、悲怆美的古格，我知道，他的身影不止留在了我的胶片上，也深深地留在了我的脑海里。
珠穆朗玛扎达已经是我们西行阿里的最后一站了，??称的樟木，世界最高峰珠穆朗玛和另一个圣湖羊卓雍错。回程途经神山岗仁波齐时，我们意外地看到了一群藏羚羊和一群藏野驴，它们正在路两边的草原上吃草。我们的车惊动了它们，它们警觉的跑向草原深处。我飞快地换上长焦镜头，向那群藏野驴追去。头一回在高原上跑步，不一会就气喘如牛、脚步踉跄了。追到一条河边，没有路了，只好停下来。而那群藏野驴也好象知道我们过不去河，无法伤害到它们一样，在河对岸不远处停了下来。好不容易调匀了呼吸，我举起相机，镜头中的藏野驴很漂亮，有健硕的身材和美丽的花纹。这些草原的精灵，在神山脚下自由的生活。来西藏前看过很多有关藏北可可西里地区偷猎现象严重的报道，那些偷猎者为了金钱向如此美丽可爱的草原精灵开枪，真是丧尽天良。真希望有一天人类可以和动物成为朋友，向这些可爱的动物举起的是相机，而不是可恶的猎枪。
9月18日到帕羊区。 9月19日下午我们到达了萨嘎，在这里洗到了西行阿里以来的第二个澡（后来知道也是最后一个澡）。第二天，从萨嘎渡口渡过雅鲁藏布江，经佩枯错、定日大草原，于当晚赶到了聂拉木。晚上在餐馆吃饭，老杨竟然吃了8碗米饭，惊的我们目瞪口呆，他自己却理直气壮地说：碗小，碗小。
9月21日，我们从聂拉木去樟木，两地距离只有二十公里，海拔却从4000多米急剧下降到2000多米，道路很惊险，路旁就是浓雾笼罩的悬崖。提心吊胆了一路，我们赶到了樟木。
樟木是中国和尼泊尔的边境口岸，是一个建在中尼公路两边山坡上的小镇。因为海拔比较低，这里有一派江南风光的味道，使看惯了阿里天地辽阔，雄浑苍茫风光的我们有些不适应。干净的小街上，有很多尼泊尔边民，颇有一些异国情调。本来我们以为有拉萨海关朋友的介绍信，可以过境去尼泊尔那边逛一逛，但却被边检的兵大哥铁面无私的拒绝了。无奈之下，只好于当天离开樟木，赶到了老定日。在老定日花80元买了一只羊，大快朵颐了一番，没有去成尼泊尔的不快立马被抛到了脑后。
9月22日，我们从老定日出发，前往海拔最高的寺庙绒布寺去看海拔最高的山峰珠穆朗玛峰。
珠穆朗玛峰，海拔8848米，象一座巨大的金字塔，雄踞于喜马拉雅山脉群峰之上，顶天立地、昂首屺立在天地间。在她周围汇聚着海拔8516米的洛子峰、海拔8463??5的传说中，却是一位女神。她是喜马拉雅山神的五个女儿中的第三个，叫珠穆米约洛桑玛，藏族人也叫她“第三女神”。
去往珠峰的路崎岖难行，在翻越的一座大山的山口，马卡鲁峰、洛子峰、珠穆朗玛和卓奥友峰一列并排的呈现在眼前，在浓厚的云彩后时隐时现。我们也不觉有些担心，听许辉说，运气不好的话，极有可能看不到珠峰。不要说我们只有一天时间，有的人等了几天也没有看到。
经过一路颠簸，我们于下午将近5点赶到了珠峰脚下的绒布寺。珠穆朗玛女神却害羞般躲在云雾后面，不肯出来让我们这些不远万里来拜见她的人一睹真容。吃过饭，大家就在饭馆里玩起了扑克，但谁的心思都没有在玩牌上，时不时抬头张望窗外的珠穆朗玛。一直到7点多钟，在我们焦急地等待中，珠穆朗玛女神终于慢慢地走出云雾的屏风，显露了出来。大家拎起相机包，兴奋地叫喊着向珠穆朗玛奔去。
天地间出现了一幅神奇的画面；在明媚的阳光下，珠穆朗玛女神巍巍然站在我们面前，雄伟壮观、气势磅礴。她身披白雪的纱衣，脚踩白云织就的地毯，傲然接受着喜马拉雅群峰的礼拜。傍晚的绒布寺山风很冷，我们却浑然不觉，我们完全被珠穆朗玛女神震撼了。同时，大家都盼望着珠穆朗玛女神不要起驾回宫，因为过一会儿，当夕阳西下的时候，日照金山的情景将更加瑰丽。珠穆朗玛女神仿佛听到了我们内心的期盼，静静地站在原地，向我们微笑。终于，我们盼望已久的场面出现了，珠穆朗玛女神被斜射的夕阳涂上了一层金黄的色彩，象是于瞬间换上了金光灿灿的皇袍。辉煌的日照金山令大家激动不已，我们完全陶醉于眼前千载难逢的神奇景致中，直到夕阳落下，珠穆朗玛女神在暮色里悄然隐去。这时，我们才发现身体已经有些被冻僵，忙不迭地向旅店跑去。
第二天一早，贪心的我们还想拍摄珠峰日出，但这回珠穆朗玛女神拒绝了我们，浓浓的晨雾把她包裹得严严实实，我们只好失望而归。当我们吃完早饭，收拾好东西准备离去时，珠穆朗玛女神象与我们告别般又一次显露出她的美丽身姿。看来她与我们还真有一些依依惜别之情呢。
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9月23日，我们从珠穆朗玛出发经新定日（协格尔），翻过海拔5220米的嘉错拉山口，于傍晚到达拉孜县。加满汽油，我们连夜赶到了日喀则第二天，我们从日喀则出发到曲水县，然后翻越冈巴拉山，到达了羊卓雍错，这样我们就朝拜完了西藏的三大圣湖。羊卓雍，意为“上部牧场的碧玉”，她不是一个规整的湖泊形状，而是依山势展开在山谷中，湖水清澈，颜色变化丰富，美丽迷人。不远出的宁金抗沙峰于云层中若隐若现。
从羊卓雍错返回到拉萨只有不到两个小时的路程。 9月24日下午6点左右，我们一行结束了为期17天的阿里之行，回到了拉萨。恰好今天是我的生日，过了17天艰苦生活的6个人，洗完澡后，找到一家饭馆“暴撮”了一顿。小群、小韫吃到了盼望17天的鸡，小梅也吃到了日思夜想的涮羊肉，而老杨经过17天的饥饿折磨更是吃得风卷残云。酒足饭饱，大家又到一家歌舞厅去“福”（小望、小群、小韫自创的广州土话，意为“找快乐”）。歌舞表演、卡拉OK，一直玩儿到半夜。小群、小韫两个女孩子还细心地买了蛋糕，不过大部分都被互相抹到了脸上，象一群将要出征的印第安人。
夜深人静的时候我想：本来，我们是厌倦了平淡乏味的都市生活才出来旅行的，但仅仅不到20天的艰苦的旅行生活又使我们对都市生活心生向往。有很多时候，人是搞不清自己想要的到底是一种什么样的生活。
三.藏族的发祥地--山南奔向山南的诱惑从阿里回来后，老杨、小梅、民哥、小群、小韫又在八廓街疯狂“扫荡”了一番后，心满意足地飞回了成都，在成都与小徐小聚之后，各自打道回府。
我独自留了下来，我的心中还有一个盼望已久的目的地、藏族古代文化的发祥地--山南地区。雅鲁藏布江中游的一个支流--雅隆河流域肥沃的土地孕育了藏民族的早期文明。山南地区首府泽当镇，藏语意为“猴子玩耍的地方”，是藏族的发祥地，传说藏族先民就是观音菩萨的神猴弟子与罗刹女结合生出的后代。这里有西藏第一座佛、法、僧三宝俱全的寺庙--桑耶寺，有第一座宫殿--雍布拉康，有最早的佛殿--昌珠寺，从这里第一部佛经传向西藏各地，还有第一座村庄，第一块青稞地……
，这所有的第一无不表明这块土地所拥有过的灿烂文明，无不对我充满了诱惑。我又独自上路了，去探寻西藏早期文明的脉搏。
桑耶寺
9月27日一早，我坐上了开往桑耶寺渡口的中巴车，桑耶寺渡口在拉萨到泽当镇的途中，去桑耶寺要从渡口渡过雅鲁藏布江。拉萨到泽当镇的路相当好，久历阿里惊险颠簸的我感觉这简直就是高速公路。下午1点左右到达桑耶寺渡口，上了渡船。一个藏族小伙子收船钱，藏民收5元，而到我时却收10元。我义正词严地说：我们都是中国人，我也交5元。小伙子拿我也没有办法，只好收了我5元作罢。有缘同舟共渡的人五花八门，有来自藏区各地的藏民、十几个外国游客、几个桑耶寺的喇嘛，还有我唯一一个内地游客，便显得与众不同。我迎着藏民好奇探询的目光，向他们点头微笑，他们便也露出雪白的牙齿向我笑。人在旅途，友善的微笑是与陌生人交流沟通的最好途径。
宽阔的雅鲁藏布江有些浑浊，模糊了倒映在江水中的蓝天、白云、雪峰。滚滚东流去的江水，让人有些晕眩，也让人感到这条高原大河不可阻挡的气势。一些藏民捧起江水来淋到头上，我知道这是他们对神圣的河神进行礼拜。渡过江后，坐上桑耶寺的中巴车，不到半个小时，就看到了桑耶寺圆形围墙上的一排整齐悦目的小白塔。
桑耶寺建于762年，在赤松德赞赞普的全力支持下，由高僧寂护设计，宁玛派祖师莲花生大师主持建造，是西藏第一座佛、法、僧三宝俱全的寺庙，也是宁玛派（红教）的主寺。寺院完全按照佛经中大千世界的布局：正中的乌策大殿，代表世界中心的须弥山；太阳、月亮两殿，象征宇宙中的日、月两轮；乌策大殿四角的红、绿、白、黑四座佛塔，代表四大天王；乌策大殿周围均匀分布的四大殿、八小殿，表示四方咸海中的四大部洲和八小部洲；环绕寺庙的圆形围墙，象征世界外围的铁围山。整个建筑给人一种磅礴大气的感觉。宏伟的乌策大殿有三层，集藏、汉、印度三种风格，底层为藏式风格，中间一层为汉式风格，上部为印度风格。
桑耶寺的喇嘛热情友好，向我介绍着大殿内供奉的各尊佛像，流连于神秘的藏传佛教世界的我忘记了时间，不知不觉中已日落西山。步出大殿我才想到没有人向我卖票，也许是桑耶寺的喇嘛把我当成了佛教信徒，不过通过在西藏的游历，我确实对藏传佛教产生了浓厚的兴趣，下决心回北京后好好研究一下。
回到桑耶寺旅馆，房间内住进了父女二人，语言不通，无法沟通。看装束是来自藏北的牧民，女孩儿的黑黑的长发梳成了许多细细的发辫，上面缀满了绿松石、珊瑚等饰品。我吃方便面的时候，两人一直在不停的念经，使我象在吃一顿圣餐。晚上，新疆来的小吴和与我同车来桑耶寺的藏族小伙子罗布找我商量明天一起租拖拉机去青浦修行地朝圣。最后，我们三人50元定好一辆拖拉机。
青浦修行地第二天早8点，我们三个坐着拖拉机出发了。乡间土路异常颠簸,坐了一会儿,屁股颠得生疼,只好扶着挡板站在拖拉机上,象检阅士兵的将军,不过我的士兵是路边成群的羊和牦牛,还有不时从田间小洞中探出头来的憨憨的土鼠.从桑耶寺到青浦只有十五公里路,但其中有一半是山路,上山时拖拉机声嘶力竭地狂吼着往上冲.幸好我们坐的人少,否则准得下来推车.大约用了1小时10分钟,我们到达了青浦山脚下.青浦修行地是宁玛派祖师莲花生大师开辟,为藏传佛教修习密宗的大本营.由于自莲花生大师以来许多藏传佛教的密宗大师曾在此修行,因此被许多密宗修行者认为有巨大的加持力而奉为圣地.眼前的青浦却有些令人失望,一面山坡上稀疏的长着低矮的灌木,丝毫看不出山清水秀、充满灵气的感觉。只有那树丛中飘扬的五色经幡和隐隐显露的寺庙金顶，昭示着这里的神圣。
我和小吴，罗布顺着山路向上攀登，路旁不时有修行者的小石屋或者石窟，我们便进去布施一些钱财。在我的印象中，许多修密宗的苦行者是不吃饭的，只吃一些水果，但这次见到的修行者都是生火烧饭的，也许是还没修到那么高的程度。每回布施完后，修行者都要拿出一些东西相赠，有的赠圣水，有的赠青稞，有的赠一些药丸，这些东西都经过修行者的密宗加持，具有神奇的功效吃下去可以消灾治病，消除身心的污秽。刚开始，我还极有诚心地吃下去，到后来实在有些受不了，圣水就淋到了头上，其他的东西就收进口袋。
在一个修行洞中，我们意外地见到一个汉族人，她是一个已出家7年的广东年青女子。和她聊了一会儿得知：她原来是作护士的，见多了人的生死，也就有些看透了人生。她觉得与其在俗世上庸庸碌碌地活着，还不如出家为尼，专心钻研佛经，即使无力教化世人，也能求得自己心灵地解脱。我不能对她的选择表示赞同或反对，因为每个人都有权利选择自己的生活方式，也正因为如此，大千世界才会丰富多彩。告别时，她告诉我们这个洞是赤松德赞法王的修行洞，并同意我们拍了一张照片。
青浦的修行者物质生活需求是极低的，只够勉强维持生存，但由于有诚挚的信念，他们的精神是快乐的，他们都相信只要自己持之以恒的坚持下去，总有一天可以修成正果，解脱轮回之苦。有一个喇嘛已经在青浦修行了九年，他问我们从哪里来，当听说我来自北京时，他高兴地说：北京好，北京好。然后，拉着我合影留念，真是很乐观快乐。下山的路上，我想，生活在都市里的人们物质生活是丰富的，但他们不一定就拥有快乐，每天不得不为了满足自己各种各样的欲望而去忙碌奔波。而青浦的这些修行者的物质生活是极端贫困的，但他们的眼神是纯洁的，他们的笑容是恬美的，他们的心灵是宁净的。相比较起来，真不知道到底哪一种生活更加幸福。
下午渡过雅鲁藏布江，坐车1小时左右就到达了山南地区首府泽当镇-这片“猴子玩耍的地方”，准备明天去雍布拉康和昌珠寺参观，探询藏民族早期文化的脉搏。
雍布拉康和昌珠寺
9月29日早晨，我和在路上结识的广东大哥老涂一起包了一辆拖拉机去雍布拉康和昌珠寺。出泽当镇后上了一条土路，颠得很，只好站在拖拉机上。这回来西藏可能把一辈子的与拖拉机的缘分都用尽了。
路上经过昌珠寺，我们决定先去雍布拉康，回来后再去昌珠寺。上午十点左右，经过一路颠簸，我们到达了雍布拉康山脚下。远远望去雍布拉康矗立在扎西次日山上，并不高大的碉楼式建筑本称不上宏伟，但由于依山势而建，倒也显示出一股居高临下的气势。
雍布拉康，是西藏的第一座宫殿，大约建于公元前100多年，由雅隆部落第一代赞普聂赤赞普修建。后来成为松赞干布和文成公主在山南的夏宫，五世达赖喇嘛时期成为黄教寺院。殿内主要供奉着三世佛、松赞干布和赤松德赞两法王、松赞干布的几位重要大臣以及宗喀巴、莲花生等造像。历经两千多年风雨，原有建筑已所剩无几，只有坚固的根基还见证着雪域高原两千多年的历史沧桑。从雍布拉康向下望去，一片片整齐的青稞田内点缀着雪白的羊群，正是这块富饶肥沃的土地，孕育了藏民族的早期文明，拉开了西藏高原风起云涌的历史序幕。
从雍布拉康下来后，我和老涂坐拖拉机到达了昌珠寺。昌珠寺是西藏第一座佛殿，相传这里原为一个大湖，湖中有一只五头怪龙兴风作浪、残害百姓。松赞干布化身大鹏鸟，从空中俯冲下去与怪龙展开搏斗，最后杀死了怪龙。 “昌珠”也就是“鹰龙”的意思。
昌珠寺与大昭寺是同时期的建筑，风格也与大昭寺相似。寺内供奉着三世佛、松赞干布和文成公主、尺尊公主等的造像。文成公主亲手用珍珠缀成的观音休憩唐卡为镇寺之宝。在二层有一个比较有意思的佛殿，我想供奉的应该是藏传佛教中掌管生死的大神赞玛热，殿内一片阴森之气，四周墙壁上挂满了人头和各种刑具。想来与汉地的阴曹地府相似。
参观完昌珠寺，和老涂一起坐车返回了拉萨。这次山南之行历时三天，使我得以更加充分地了解藏民族的起源和早期文明，为自己的西藏之行增添了重要的内容。
后记从山南回来后，假期已经临近结束，在拉萨休息了一天，最后享受了一下圣城的灿烂阳光。 “十一”国庆节上午，昨晚刚结识的朋友小任骑摩托车带着我到布达拉宫广场看升旗仪式。下午两点我坐上了开往格尔木的长途卧铺车。到了和西藏说再见的时候了，这一个多月的西藏游历使我了解了很多事情，也明白了许多一直不太明白的问题，当然，也增加了不少疑惑。不管怎样，这都会是一段刻骨铭心的记忆，值得我长久封存、回味。
客车飞驰在平整的青藏公路上，前方的路好象总也没有尽头，10月3日凌晨2点，经过36个小时的汽车旅行，我到达了格尔木市。从格尔木坐火车到达西宁时已是10月4日早晨5点，买好10月5日返回北京的卧铺车票，找一个旅馆蒙头大睡。中午醒来后，坐车去了西宁附近的黄教六大寺之一的塔尔寺。 10月6日晚6点30分，我回到了北京。走出北京西站，我有种恍若隔世的感觉，雾蒙蒙的夜空下，闪烁着车灯、街灯和霓虹灯，身旁人潮汹涌，沸腾的都市生活扑面而来。而这是的西藏仍是阳光灿烂的时候，而西藏那皓月当空、繁星闪烁的夜空也离我远去了。此后的这段日子，我时不时会在梦中回到西藏，醒来后很久不知身在何处。我知道西藏高原上那到处飘扬的五色经幡，家家户户煨起的缕缕桑烟，每个人心里、口中诵出的六字大明咒“嗡、嘛、呢、叭、咪、…尽钌】淘谖业囊馐畲晌伊榛凶钌畹目释￡

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作者：yangyuli 出自：YY12000 登录名： 小草