Westbound 20-day butterfly flower 2003-10-19
2003.9.27. 6
1 o'clock last night to leave the office, clean up the room after arriving home. Side of the packed room, while meditation Li Bai's "long dry line", somehow think of this poem, and then found that the first simple poem actually contains a deep love, people moved.
Clean up the room to 3:30 in the morning and then pack up luggage.
The morning to pack up, like every time I go out, like, always to the end of time not to pack. Fortunately, there is a quarter of an hour to leave the car, I went to the station.
Drive later, I send text messages to the front: "has been on the train, 1352 times."
12:51, Feng letters: "Note that the body a pleasant journey."
At 21:55, VINCENT phone call from the United States. Said a 2 minutes, the signal cut off. I realized that my friends who care too little.
2003.9.28. Day
18:45, I send text messages to the front: "with long hair. Wears glasses. A black short-sleeved T-shirt. Black trousers." Issued to him in advance, for fear tomorrow morning Shoujimeidian.
21:30, Feng letter: "The specific time informed me that I have a lot of sleep and Kazakhstan will yo."
2003.9.29. 1
Middle of the night three more people in a car drowsily rest, it was released tape, a very low-level tongue twister. A group of women accused of, then I also blame all to no avail. I watched the tape source, a few workers, as well as a woman, very happy smile. When a person is when there is no sense of shame, that person can not do nothing.
Some people wash, front coming to pick me, so I have to wash clean.
4:26, Feng letter: "specific points to?"
I replied: "You have been awake? Quickly into the pits. I am prepared to stay in the waiting room to invite you to do 9:00."
4:31, Feng letter: "When I pick you up."
About 4:50, the train stops. Carrying a large bag, carrying two Bag exit of I stood there embarrassed. No one came. I took out cell phones, see the letter from the front 4:56: "I immediately went to the I forgot your real name:)", this time, 4:59, again a text message: "I went to the door you out Well." I laughed, playing his mobile phone, no answer, there came a very handsome young man picked up my luggage, we have a relatively smiled, no ask her name.
Feng called a taxi and soon arrived at his home.
He opened the gas water heating, we speak. No sleep last night, he always feel that something happens. And I did not intend to let him get up so early for.
I went to bathe. Bath out, he had fallen asleep, TV open. I want to turn off their TVs do not know how to pass, do not ignore it, on the sofa and fell asleep. A sofa covered with bamboo mats, towels thin, at first worried about the cold, asleep nor cold.
Front or what cell phone rang several times, he did not move, I do not know if he was asleep, or do not want to take.
Feng awakened by my cell phone. I said he did not take a call, he said did not hear. He began to call, I began to wash.
Feng did not go to work meant, I went to lie on the sofa reading. He laughed me: "No wonder the eyes bad." I said: "Now to say later."
I do the laundry and found no place to dry clothes, he got my clothes to the laundry room next door to his nephew. The first thing hanging on my pants, he said: "You do not do things right?" I asked: "Why do you say that?" He said: "get clothes are calling such." I admire his powers of observation. He helped me to trousers and wrung ------- My explanation is that I "fixed screw "-------- linked to the next room. The second dress is a black short-sleeved shirt. Had to pink lace underwear, purple underwear hanging in the hanger good to him, I said nine words: "I am sorry. Evil." He bowed "as" one of my underwear, I am very embarrassed .
I read books on the sofa at about 1:00 to noon, he called me up, change clothes, saying that cold outside. I put on the sleeve black T shirt. He drove me to dinner. I asked AA system, he said that he foot the bill.
After dinner, go to Chengdu Second People's Hospital, he would like to rent oxygen bottles, but the pharmacy only selling, not rent. I want to buy a 100-ning, pharmacies do not.
Us back to the car, he called me to hang in the car of Chinese knot tassels compiled pigtail, braid line up a bit.
He sent me home and told me the house number, lest I come back I could not find. Told me that the club location, the house keys threw me out of things he had.
I'm at home watching TV, a complete reading of the Central Taiwan "a woman's alley Battle". 3 / 4 French descent, Hua Xinmin in order to defend Beijing's Hutong and everywhere, gave me great inspiration and encouragement.
6 o'clock is drawing near. I went to the door of the car Station on 27 Road to soaring bridge, found a single situation bar. I bought a lot of eating on the road, and I love the single bar is 7:50, morning till 10 minutes. Come to a few people, Feng, and Xia also arrived.
To Danba to many people in Tibet have come to a middle-aged man and a young man. Very strange, I knew before the words of many, to a strange environment is naturally quiet, gentle, graceful.
9:00, I come out from the club, take the 34 way back. Feng went back to Chongqing, and come back tomorrow.
2003.9.30. 2
Not get up at 9:00 am.
In the evening, front back, take me to dinner. Although I have enough to eat bread, or willing to go to dinner.
To the Roman Holiday Plaza to eat hot pot, saw about half of the monthly spend together a few people.
Feng said to me, "Huaxi Dushi Bao" asked him and asked if I wanted to write, I nodded and asked: "how do you know that I will be writing articles?" Feng said: "guess."
After eating, some people get back, I sat in the car packet. Packets and the front of the car even act a little more before coming home, I have slept in the car for quite a while.
Packets and one other people also live in the home front. I sleep in front bed, front to sleep on the sofa bed, packet, and nephew of another person to sleep front room.
Feng has also been making telephone calls, almost night slept, I felt the team leader of the hard work, to organize such a long and dangerous game.
2003.10.1. 3
6 am, told me to get up front.
I packed his things, Feng urged me.
Vehicles pass through some spots, while there were poet Li Bai birth Qinglian County, I would like to see Li Bai Memorial, vehicles can not stop, I said to myself read more than that of Li Bai's poetry is more useful to look at his memorial.
Noon, a roadside restaurant in Pingwu ate, vegetables and good, the per capita 10 yuan.
Dark, we had mountain when the car running out of oil. Front of the Cherokee fuel than the 2020 is small, he still has oil, we have been running out of oil. 20 yards of our car to the speed of the glide slowly Hill Road. Dark mountain road, the occasional village. In such places on foot is dangerous, sudden appearance of the house really do not know whether it was black shops, but had no choice.
We finally dragged the station. Canada finished oil, the car is open to the Wudu County, Gansu Province. By the roadside eating dinner, I asked for a BRANDIED glutinous rice balls, but no bite to eat, because the glutinous rice balls on and off the one about 1.5 cm long, green body, transparent wings of small insects. Ate packets of glutinous rice balls: a moth fell to his bowl in the "surface" sliding distance, Zhang wings no more, "water" on a gray moths.
Kebab taste very good, 4 corner a bunch of, I bought a 5 string. Rou Gamo original folder is kebab, taste pretty good, that is too expensive, 5 yuan 1.
Wudu can not think of a number of hotels have been fully booked, we finally found an expert Lou Hotel. I and Yu, Xia live in a room. The room without water, she eventually became runoff, and we barely slept the wash.
2003.10.2. 4
After getting up, I Yu, Xia other six went to eat breakfast, others repair. Back for a long time we had finished our breakfast, car was finally repaired without food for several people to eat breakfast breakfast.
They were eating breakfast when the second call has already been 11 points. So we did not eat lunch, has been open to the Tianshui, Gansu. I remember Maijishan Grottoes should be here, but there is no chance to see the.
We go to the "big houses" Hotel Wang and start a la carte, found no specialties, but also catch a glimpse out the window of the Sichuan Museum, so a pedestrian to the Sichuan Museum.
I first bought a corn to eat; Xia string called a lot of lamb, grilled fish, lamb per string 4 string, fish, two strings. Chen does not eat lamb, I ate his share of. After cooking up the results, we have been eating too full, and some food waste.
Eat packet is finished, at the door look at the scenery, suddenly cried out: "on fire!" We are out of view, the door sprang the second floor of new residential building fires, fire large, the thick smoke pipe burning, and exhaust pipes through the roof, the roof of the exhaust pipes emit a sudden exit the fire, only sprayed once. Exhaust pipe bend where a group played a fire, a length of about 12 meters down the pipeline burned out, but fortunately, no one smacked.
I found that fire is the big houses! The box from the kitchen we have just recently, and the box door was closed, we may not be able to time to know what was on fire. They joked that front in large houses to eat if we can escape alone, and I said, he ran a fire, after which the account should also be paid. Feng suddenly asked: "You just eat the skin of the corn it?" I am referring to the plastic trash hotel entrance. They want to catch the original front I readily threw garbage evidence, to my superiors "complaint" I have.
After dinner drive, originally planned to burn the midnight oil, about 3 points to Xining. 1:00 minutes, bus to Lanzhou Wang and constantly looking for hotel, finally we Xinhua hotel stay there, I live in a Yu. I am in favor of accommodation: Rather than burn the midnight oil tonight and tomorrow during the day in Xining sleep better at night, daytime driving, and the middle of the night 3:00 hotel accommodation uneconomical.
Buildings in the bathroom, I have to go to bed. My right arm pluggin bed, ready to the left hand turn off the lights to sleep, right arm hurt. Morning at the garages, I closed off when the elbow hit the door, so painful that I could not move half a day. At this point, since I T? sleeves, horror to find a piece of protruding right elbow, I Startled: Fracture? But I all day today, so easily ah. I have repeatedly compared his arms, right elbow was initially suspicious, but then I also nothing wrong. Yu came out, I let her help me see, she said that only a subcutaneous bleeding, no problem.
2003.10.3. 5
Last night, I put diaries, a running account, brought into the room, this morning, the first bath after washing remember running account, account did not end in mind, it is necessary collection.
I remember running account in the hall to continue to charge to finished. Prepared to write a diary, it is necessary on the car. Feng asked me to write a manuscript do, I said no, there are official did not deal with it. "Huaxi Dushi Bao" Let us be able to access parts of the manuscript transmission of the past, I would like to return to Shanghai after the re-transmission of the entire written in the past.
I used the time to open such as cars began to write diaries, he drove a red light and ask for directions after the words when the words in a diary.
Eating authentic Lanzhou Ramen -------- we have inadvertently to the Yellow River Bridge, not far from the old shop -------- discovered a taste and I eat almost Changzhou school, we continue to proceed .
Before long, vehicles entered the repair field, began a long repair, I finally padded diary. I do not mind repair, car Tibet often bad, but repair delays during the day time, evening, they will burn the midnight oil to be recovered, not cut into my time, I have a good hand, you can write, read the.
In Shanghai, too tired, and this two days in the car, I basically have been sleeping, added sleep, the book can not tell that to the hotel is also just want to sleep. Are also worried that so much to bring their own book is leucorrhea.
10:08, static letter: "You are what chic again on it? I'm going camping again run into rain, quickly pass some experience."
I replied to the quiet time is 12:42 -------- rare --------" timely reply to my letter so I went to Tibet, has been to Lanzhou. Rainy days, camping tents, sleeping bags have no moisture-proof pad problem. Be careful not to get cold. tent to go back to dry, or will be moldy. "
Soon 12:44, calm reply: "You went to Tibet? I holidays come, will have a significant impact?"
I immediately wrote back and seriously frightened her answer: "No effects just a little trouble. Attention to health, to keep warm, not cold baths, do not swim. Other no. Physiological phenomena only, not nervous, the more nervous people The more negative. loosen up a bit:). " I specially added a smiley face to her.
12:56, static replied: "You hear these words I will not worry. I go camping a bit worried the first time, the main two days to rain. Is to climb mountains, and want to come would be more muddy roads. You are a person to Tibet? You're my idol. "
I replied: "rainy mountain must pay attention to safety, not speed, only Qiuwen. Recommended travels to cultivate the habit of writing. More to go out to play a few times, then I take you out. I will return to Shanghai travel notes issued to you after. I wish a good time. "
We went to Qinghai Lake has been about 10 points. Vehicles in the lake to stop a hotel. We just joined the hotel, the young waitress came to greet and ask Huangzhong we eat do not eat fish, I said: "Huang River fish can not eat."
"Eat." She answered faster than me.
"Eating fish is illegal huang." I said.
She did not speak immediately.
Our other teammates began ordering. Today is exactly one Wangsao birthday, I am not a Huangzhong eat fish, she said: "Sorry, I simply spoil the scenery." She graciously indicated he did not mind, do not know if was true or false.
I saw the wall in the restaurant and hotel in Qinghai Province fishing so that the boss does not operate an undertaking Huangzhong fish, unfortunately, only a piece of paper hanging on the wall only.
Cong Bao yak meat, yak meat, fried green peppers, green peppers scrambled eggs, spinach tofu soup, a bottle of highland barley wine, two Hanamaki, bowls of rice, two pickles, 278 yuan. No wonder so few dishes tonight, we no eat.
Hotel clerk live in Qinghai Lake, I Yu, Xia room. Xia, and Yu sleeping sleeping bags, woo the extra blanket to me and I put two folded blankets Dianzhe, build a quilt, it would not cold.
2003.10.4. 6
Highland barley wine last night, there is a problem that they had drunk Feng Tu De drastically, a few of us do not drink nothing.
Morning, starting from Qinghai Lake hotel clerk when the beans start the next salt. A while, ice crystals into snowflakes, snow, under the more greater.
Drove for some distance, the roadside was waving to us, one grade for the Green E, CMB planted on the roadside.
Small packets of the car slowly stopped to go back. As the driver asked us to help get the car up. Packet to take a rope ready to drag the car up, I let the driver with our car, I woo to his wound.
Yu just get wet paper towels to wipe the driver wound on the right ready to hit can be affixed to the driver of my posts say "useless." The driver looked down, I saw the right side of his head that he had a hole in approximately 10 cm, is still oozing.
I think I took a roll of gauze, and U3U4 went out to play for the anti-leech foisted on them as leggings. I took a look gauze, it really is a medical gauze. I looked at the wound, holding the hands of gauze did not dare move, then packet back to the driver's seat, I let him look to the driver package, I am in fear, said: "I will not." Packet angrily said: "Zebu will be! "
Acquire a gauze packets in the driver's head around a couple of laps, I noticed a rather loose around him. I said, whether or not to multi-packet layers of the wound, which reminded him that he removed the gauze and took out two penicillin capsules, break apart, sprinkle the powder into the wound, again with soiled with blood on the gauze pack. Fast gauze bag over, packet should be scissors, I quickly took out his Swiss Army knife from the bag, packet of gauze cut to about 30 cm long 2, tie on the driver's head, the junction between the face stuffed with gauze.
The driver asked me: "There is call? My Shoujimodian." I quickly come up with mobile phones, fortunately, signal and battery is full. I helped him dial the number, he did not understand the words, I basically speak with each other.
The 2020 packets cross in the middle of the road, with a rope with Pakistan. I am worried that packet Yi Fa Li, 2020 a rushed down the other side of roadbed. 2020 pulled the rope broke, and parcel to the driver said: "No way," got on.
Outside it was snowing heavily. I put Jackets, look outside. Many drivers behind the stop, wait and see developments, prepared to help.
Now only the car onto the sidewalk below, but car revolver stuck in the dirt. Finally, some carts, the driver drove the car to the sidewalk at last, started.
We continue to proceed. Snow gradually smaller, and then stop, the ground has become wet from the ballast of ice, and then dried.
We are open, a Pakistani than we, it was just the accident of the car. I am very happy.
Today, drive to Dulan, in a restaurant for lunch.
Rice finished soon, and shop owner over asked: "Otherwise you want to eat Huang River fish? First entered the."
Wang and immediately looked at me and said: "do not eat. Can look at it?"
I followed her into the kitchen, hands-woo is also going to bring her camera. My camera somehow does not work.
Taiwan board in the kitchen, there are two black plastic bags, which stood 10 Huangzhong each fish, each weighing about a pound. Huang River fish are salt water fish, which died out of Qinghai Lake.
The boss asked me in detail the source of Huangzhong fish, he carefully asked me: "You're not the China Central Television, right?" I avoid the edge, saying: "Do not fish into the Huang River. You do not enter, illegal fishing would be no market in . "
After dinner, others rest, 2020 to repair. I take advantage of this rare time to look at the county seat.
County is very small, two T-junction is the main street of the. I found a photo studio and found that not a battery is dead, but the battery base oxidation, wipe enough. Bosses do not charge for repairs, I am sorry, buy him a roll of film.
I took the opportunity to chat with the boss, asked him in the local living conditions. No business here, the original basic bankruptcy of enterprises.
At this time, over two police officers, come take a large plastic photo, hung around the neck or attached to the wall kind.
I gently asked: "Here people eat Huang River fish?"
Young denied that the police immediately.
I said: "I saw the restaurant."
Young police officers thought for a moment, tactfully said: "Huang River fish is shipped from the Qinghai Lake, where fishing was stolen. There is no matter, I am here, what the tube."
I said: "fishing fishery in Qinghai Bureau of order is issued, it should be in Qinghai are valid, how would you can not control it?"
Young police officers asked: "Are you a reporter?"
I said quietly: "I am not a journalist, what relationship?"
Young police officers with a curious look happy to say: "You light bar. Exposure, some people in charge of."
I said: "Exposure is only temporary. You are the police, but also should be aware that the maintenance of order depends on a long-term system, relied on the locals."
Young police officers also found a reason: "That's people who eat food she does not know is that Huangzhong fish, I do not know who is not a crime."
I stared at him: "I do not know who is not a crime, you are the police, do you believe this?"
Young police officers quickly said: "I certainly do not believe."
He and a little older that have been silent police suddenly gone, I went to, and studio bosses to continue to explore the topic of employment.
Out of the studio, I was walking down along the road have been. Highway at the end, to the right, there are villages, there is the presence of the villagers working on the ground. I carefully looked at the venue on the heap is rapeseed.
Site edge of one about two three years old, chubby children, I do not know male or female, alone Wanni Ba, with a small shovel to shovel dirt into the half of it urges Bang Bang Ice plastic tubes go. I'm sorry I brought the candy on the car.
The time is coming, I went back with the team members to join. Cars are still maintenance, front Kaohuo in the room, a smile on my case and asked to write the manuscript there, I said I would like to return to Shanghai and then sent along with him, and he said, want to send a series of reports published Monday. I said that a computer is like writing. So, I found an Internet cafe and found that the keyboard is dead, but are not equipped with WORD, I then did not Xiegao Zi, has only taken EMAIL.
I left the night before in Shanghai, East China in September to participate in NPO (nonprofit organization) training in the NGO (non-governmental organizations), made an initiative of the letter, the proposal to NGO should come together to share resources, many NGO back the letter expressed support for green power still waiting for root me an answer. I returned to Shanghai and then your answer.
A happy National Day on the 27th letter asking paragliding school thing. I now have no time and money to learn paragliding in.
Qing Feng sent some photos of sad people, there is one entitled "I just want my salary," content is an arm around the women burst into tears after a badly beaten person. Qing Feng is a Ph.D. National Chiao Tung University, university teacher, reside in the ivory tower, but it has always been concerned about the bottom of society, for the rehabilitation of schools is also very concerned about. To see this picture, I think we NGO's Legal Aid Center is concerned with remedies, I have to pay attention to is the ex ante prevention, let my kids do not leave school to know how to protect themselves.
An hour the whole, I left the cafe.
Back to the repair station Kaohuo, I Yu, Xia, Wang Sao talk about feelings, repair stations are also interrupted the old lady, she was actually very advanced concepts that boring marriage, women do not marry, then they should not end up with. Divorced, son to the man, a girl to bring their own daughter was also caring son that are not used.
Car repaired, we returned to the car. I woo women to talk about why the bottom and our idea is the same: the bottom of women in marriage have nothing to gain personally embodies the marriage of the unreliable, so the concept and we are in agreement. In fact, between the extremes are interlinked. However, I am the future, if divorced, son daughter, I have to bring their own. From his (her) came to this world, until he (her) age, I have for him (her) have the responsibility, I want to give him (her) to provide material life, providing education, and most importantly, to teach He (her) love life, no matter what.
21:30, we began to start, burn the midnight oil. And I have been changed to Feng Yu opened on the Cherokee. I put in my sleeping bag cover and Yu, Xia's legs, the three girls too warm in the night.
Middle of the night, cars paused at the Golmud, eat barbecue.
2003.10.5. Day
Pharaoh is very severe altitude sickness, first headache, suck the Xining to buy canned oxygen, then all the way spit incessantly.
Car to the Tuotuohe, Xia has contacted a Bureau of iron in a good hospital, a 20-year-old girl with enthusiasm to come out to meet us. Doctors recommend that Pharaoh immediately down the mountain, Xia whispered: "He and our team together." Pharaoh himself timidly to the mountains.
Took drugs, that girls receive warm to room oxygen Pharaoh, Xia, Feng buy oxygen bag, the other people to refuel, and or hang out outside, I accompanied the Pharaohs. Girl Let me also oxygen, I laughed refused.
Feng, Xia came back, we went to eat, stay in the room resting Pharaohs. Noodle with eggs, they all spoke highly of Wang and delicious, I did not feel anything special. Noodle with toughness, I have always liked noodle.
Back to the hospital, Pharaohs much better, we decided to move on.
Packets like to put the tape in the car, front is very quiet. That afternoon, we three girls chatting in the car, I am making particular mention of NGO. Later, I go to bed, and Feng said: "Well you will continue to spin a yarn." I Zhuangshui, listen to how they say that I, Yu said: "Her Stories."
I sleep when the front of the car horn is broken, front to be overtaking when you yelled: "toot --------" us laugh. Lam said: "She cried both have passed, which you cried." Of course I embarrassed to cry.
Plateau beautiful night, half-way we take pictures stop.
We are three girls in Song Xing big time, even in the Great Court does not love to sing in public, under a lot of songs I sing, my volume is too small, the sound is not out of place.
We have come to the foot of the Tanggula depot, and stay there, 4 girls in one room are housed separately from two boys.
2003.10.6. 1
To sleep last night, the feeling of suffocation, he felt trapped in the hole, could not move, only the first outside.
Night Banxing half-dream, not entirely awake, but sleep interrupted several times. Basically, you can still sleep, but there have been a nightmare.
The morning, get up, they are three no sleep, all slept, woke up later, no longer sleep.
Morning, left the Tanggula depot and began turning Tanggula. Tanggula 5231 meters high, since we already have two days of altitude sickness, but felt too Tanggula obvious.
12:00, he drove to a place to stop to eat lunch. In the absence of electricity (local is the diesel power generation), the hotel dark and the. I have dark restaurant diary. After a long time before meals up, just let me diary.
Table, the front said he was not eaten to the Huang River fish. What he said was in Sichuan, I did not understand too much, but it should not hear wrong. I pretend not understand, did not answer. After dinner, another transfer, I Wangsao and children to sit together. I Wangsao chat, I intend to talk about noon, said he was not eaten to the front Huangzhong fish, she laughed, showing that I did not hear wrong.
At about 9 pm, bus to Lhasa. As Wang and insisted on live in a standard room, Xia first contact a good hotel. I insisted on not live, you want to find other Mix the Jokhang Temple. Yu is also with me. Woliang to the Jokhang Temple next to the auspicious day hotels, three years ago when I came to Lhasa came here, most posters here.
Settled accommodation, Wolia to see posters. Posts on a variety of languages have. There is a post, written in Japanese, which I can basically understand, they want to go to the time and our consistent (The most we spent two days in Lhasa), but I can not read location, location, using a Katakana . I am not convinced, staring at Katakana watched about a minute (I also remember the order of the total Katakana), has finally come out to fight they want to see that Namco, not me, and woo the place to be, anger I rarely curse curse the Japanese one, although he should blame my own bad Japanese.
I see yu find a burial, and with his contacts, he called Guangyu. We sat in the bar for a while, two of the little girl from Hong Kong and our peers have. Guangyu an appointment tomorrow to look for cars, tomorrow we meet again.
We live in a room have a man who is a male. Like many mature Mix, he enthusiastic, naturally greeted us, told us, "9 o'clock before the temple free of charge." Yu graceful and I talk with him. His burial tomorrow to see.
2003.10.7. 2
7:00 get up at 8:50 to the Jokhang Temple, the monks have been guarding, and I can not woo a fare-beating. We are both second to Tibet, the Jokhang Temple the first time has been entered, in order to comfort themselves, no further Mai Menpiao go. All because of my dawdle, we could not go. Yu said that I "write articles fast, act slow."
Have a direct entrance to the Jokhang Temple Drepung car. Drepung Monastery and Sera Monastery a little like, built on mountains, a temple connected into a whole. Drepung Monastery, some women can not go, just not many tourists, the old monk stood at the window to allow me to watching. I asked him why women can not enter, he said that what is inside the Buddha, the Buddha does not allow a woman into. As usual, I can not remember the name of Buddhism and the Tibetan people. I playfully asked: "Buddha does not like women?" Old monk mouthful of teeth exposed laugh.
Back to the auspicious days, we wash the bath, ready to go to the Jokhang Temple sun.
14:38, Yong sent a text message: "You went to Majiemi it? I think burial back."
My SMS is full, I let him woo replied: "Majiami night to go. Night to turn your back. Nervous ---"
Yu finished my lunch, in the Bajiao Street on the stroll, 15:25, Yong replied: "Ha. I will not go back at night. Noon, to go back."
In the Barkhor, I bought a shawl, but also can be used as bed sheets, small quilt, 50. I saw the shawl with a very practical Wangsao can be used to cover legs, by the inspiration and decided to buy a shawl.
Xiao Zheng, Yuan asked me to give them with a bracelet. Buy one and get out of hand decoration to give Xiao Zheng, Yuan, and to own, to others ------ suddenly bought a 95 yuan. I stopped in a timely manner.
I woo the new entrance at the Jokhang Temple in full bloom in a small courtyard next to the butter lamps rest, sitting on the concrete around the incense altar on the stage, back facing the sun, face toward the Changgui people.
Three years ago, I watched these people all day long Changgui, the first reaction was: "They do not work here?" Three years later, I no longer use to do some banking, Miss is not very well developed in Shanghai The foreign senior staff, and became a volunteer, I have life, have more work experience, I began to understand Changgui people, even some envy them.
2003.10.8. 3
2:30 am, Yu told me to get up. Many Mix also got up so early, obviously and we go the same way the.
I drank to my sister Wang Chong good milk, bring diaries, and fruits, hurry down the stairs. Guangyu they have in the yard, when the whole 3 points, a car to the other one has not arrived yet.
3:04, the first two cars arrived. I woo and a pair of male and female visitors to Beijing on a car, Guangyu and another four people live in another car.
I want to sleep on the bus, boarded it and did not sleep, and sometimes a few people to speak. I watched car after a Gyangze, Maizhokunggar. Approaching, I insist not live, close your eyes rest for a while.
Car to a place to stop here a number of vehicles have been the road block, we should all look at the burial.
We spent about ten minutes in the car, set out.
Days was also black, but fortunately, many people with a headlight. Tibetan driver taboo to see celestial burial, refused to lead the way, just tell us, "along the path on to."
A length away in front of people stopped, and said no way. A group of people standing on the stupid road. Some say: "turn back the whole, the latter were to go forward." I said aloud: "all hang out in situ, followed by those who find the wizard." Hang out so you do not move, the last person to find the wizard He just took headlights.
A moment, that person back, the driver still refused to Tibetans down.
The beginning of the previous Pathfinder, the speed is very slow, gradually began to bright days, I am afraid I wasted time, regardless of the same car to block Beijing's boys (he opposed because I was a girl I explore the way), adhere to the Pathfinder. Gone a length, followed by someone shouting: "Road to find." We began to explore the way of the return of stone steps along a mountain road.
Half-way out of satin ladder Temple monks block, must we have allowed our last Tianzang Tai Mai Menpiao. Thus, we have to spend 25 yuan to buy a ticket.
Gradually bright days had no headlights of.
We are doubts have taken the wrong road, suddenly appeared in front of a huge eagle, then to two. Should be up. Gone through a mountain to a flat slope, there are many eagles in front of neatly parked in a row on the hillside. There is a stopped up the fence where the fence where there is a circular xintaizi, more than half are gravel, and a small bud-shaped place is half puzzle stones, and above there are several thick struts, it should be is Tianzang Tai.
In front of the mountain, constantly flying out of a number of eagles, like the bombers, a smooth, silent flying over from the mountains, very spectacular, but also some horror. When the eagles began to swing to near the ground when the wings to start with 23 meters width of the wing. When it fast landing, feels like it wants to come to peck the same. One group after another silent eagle came from the mountain side, such as numerous eagles in the mountains over there. Falls on the slopes of the Tian Zangtai are hundreds.
Our fence stood above the top of the hill, to discuss where to see clearly. Suddenly someone said softly: "Look!" Just ahead of us 23 meters away on the rubble stood a huge vulture, there are two three year-old child is so high, fat swelling. Some fear we are. Vulture, and are not afraid of us, comfortably stand, he served as our camera.
The southwest corner fence has a locked door, a group of foreigners standing. A black women toward us, in English, asked: "Can we picture it?"
Me and a girl next to me at the same time replied: "you can shoot." Further girl replied: "Wait a minute burial began can not be photographed."
I talk to girls up, she called the Chinese, for the first time a person to travel along the Sichuan-Tibet line here. Dare to go to Tibet for the first time out is really severe, this arduous trip also brought negative impact on her, and she said she never want a man to go out. It seems, or I do step by step is better. Hope that China will be one out later, when the bitter, after all look at the wealth. People still rely on their own, particularly in the case of girls.
I went to China of foreigners there, Wolia want to look into the inside fence, foreigners would also like, decided to follow a foreigner Wolia mixed in, if they can go.
A group of people idly waiting, cold days, there is frost on the ground. Northeast China, and a girl plays a game of kick the game as a child in order to heat, I left carrying his diary stays in the chest, right hand and write, left fingers have been stiff.
The sun came out, started a little warmer. Some people began to wonder: "Today there burial?" I am also worried about did not in vain, and they feel that their views were very cruel.
Fence east of the door suddenly opened, and everyone Bay in the past. A young Tianzang Shi standing in the doorway, saying not allowed to enter, but also quietly into our hands, I whispered "Thank you."
We have come Tianzang Tai beside Tian Zangtai involuntarily around the circle. Then everyone scattered standing, the young Tianzang Shi let us stand to the west, face toward the East.
Tian Zangtai next Shijiu where the fire ignited. I took out a diary from the plastic bag ready to be recorded, when a group fall out of paper towels, I habitually pick up the paper towels, but not back into the plastic bag, they dare not put into the fire. I am holding a towel dumbfounded, and finally the courage to dip a paper towel back into the plastic bag Xuexing Qi.
I continue to write diary, people around looked at me with envy, someone asked: "Are you a writer?" I said it is not. It was then asked: "Are you a reporter?" Yu-generation I answered: "Yes." I hastened to deny that.
I record, catch a glimpse of Yu Tian Zangtai walk around rapidly. She returned to my side and said: "Quick! Cut nails or hair, into the fire, three times around the Tianzang Tai, hands together and even, and got an O - ME - MI-BE-ME-HO, is both a respect for the dead , but also for their good. "My nails have been cut off in the past on the road, but fortunately I have a waist-long hair, very close, I will let yu give me a little hair cut, I put a lock of hair and put into the fire里，不好意思双手合什，我的双手自然交叠在身体前方，我也没有念六字箴言，只在心里默默记诵。大家都已经站好，只有我一个在绕天葬台，我颇不好意思。
回到刚才站的位置，我继续作记录，有人发出“SHI—SHI—”的声音，我抬头，看到年轻的天葬师对我发出这种声音，同时双手的食指交叉成十字形，宇对我说：“不要写了。”我收起日记本。
西南角的门--------刚才我和华以及一群外国人站的位置--------忽然就开了，一个年轻人背着一个木箱走了进来，正挡在路上的我们慌忙让路。
年轻人背着挺沉的箱子，小心地在鹅卵石上放好。箱子很小，底边约为50*50厘米的正方形，高约1米。这样小的箱子，我立刻想到少数民族的团身葬，也有的叫做屈肢葬。
头戴金黄色帽子，身穿同样颜色的华丽的长袍的老天葬师用长长的三角刀撬开封箱子的木楔子，从箱子里面掏出绿底白花的毛毯，毯子像是新的，毯子边缘却已磨破了。接着掏出许多装着液体的塑料袋，不知道装的是不是防腐剂。
老天葬师吃力地拖出一个大白布口袋，像拖货物一样拖到鹅卵石上。白口袋里装着一团东西。
老天葬师用刀割开口袋，把尸体从里面拽出来。从花白的短发来看，是一个老年男子，很瘦，身上许多血痕。
老天葬师把尸体的手和腿打开，尸体的高度应该在1.70米以上，面朝下。
老天葬师左手用钩钩住尸体臀部，右手长刀划下从臀到小腿约50厘米长的一条肉。游客发出各种声音。
第一刀划下后，接着是第二刀，第三刀--------然后是头部，一刀下去，出来一绺头发，露出白色的头盖骨。老天葬师动作很熟练。
旁边，几个年轻人拿着树枝或长绳，不让秃鹫、老鹰靠近。突然，年轻人控制不了局面，秃鹫一下子冲了过来，年轻人和天葬师退到一旁。
一群秃鹫冲过来，密密麻麻，我们什么也看不见，只看到有的秃鹫站到同伴身上。秃鹫稍微隆起的地方下面应该就是尸体了。
秃鹫毛乱飞，我们纷纷拿东西捂住鼻子。有人说“(死尸)味道很重”，我没有觉得。
约十分钟过去，秃鹫混战结束，地上一具完整的胸骨骨架，连着腿骨；旁边几只秃鹫拖着的长骨头应该是手臂骨；再远点，几只秃鹫把连着颈椎的头骨拨来拨去。
天葬师们驱赶走了秃鹫，把骨头放到石台子上，开始用锤子砸骨头。我和华绕着天葬台转来转去以看得更清楚。
锤子砸下去，骨渣、肉沫四溅，我们纷纷后退。我发现塑料袋上有一团黄红色的浆状物，不知道是骨髓还是什么。我没有别的的装书的袋子，只能拿纸巾将浆状物擦掉。我捏着沾了浆状物的纸巾，不知道该放哪儿，反正是不敢带回去了。旁边有一个浅浅的土坑，里面有不少白白的纸巾，我终于将纸巾也丢在里面。
我注意到尸体的脚心的肉已经被吃掉了，但五个脚趾头是完好的，只是被砸后，脚趾头显得松松软软的。砸过的骨头洒上糌粑粉，扔到鹅卵石上。
身体处理掉了，天葬师开始处理头部。看起来坚硬的头盖骨，几锤下去就像瘪了的篮球，再几锤就像碎了的瓦片。
从开始，到结束，不过40分钟。
游客们退出，有一些人已经提前走了。
半个小时后还有第二个天葬。我想看，看第一个是新鲜，第二个则是调整心态了。我们几个留下来的人聊天。有个男生的裤子上溅了血迹，他说：“(血)越擦越大”。我发现冲锋衣的左袖口内侧也有一团浆状物，我擦掉了。大家在天葬开始之前都有如果衣服上沾到-----就-----的想法，现在都表示“不迷信”。我说：“我们都很节俭，衣服回去洗了照穿。”大家都笑了。等了一会儿，他们不想再等，我们是包车来的，我只能和他们一起回去。
回去时，我发现山坡上有一种蓝色的小花，花形像牵牛花，比牵牛花小，花瓣是白色的，靠近边缘是蓝色的，很美。我采了标本，又拍了照片，然后赶上宇。
我第二次采集标本--------这回是一种白色的花，花瓣细长，像头发一样蓬蓬的--------和宇走失了，所幸北京的这对游客赶了上来，我们三个结伴经过直贡梯寺回去。下山的路有些陡，男生拽着草时，手被有毒的草扎了一下，针刺一样的痛，红肿了起来。
我们到了停车场，车却不见了。以为是车挡道，停到山下，我们向山下走。我们看到路边有个木牌，上面写着“STOP”，还画了个箭头。我奇怪既然是“停止”为什么还要画箭头。
我们走了不少的路。一群藏族修路工经过我们，其中一个指着我手里拿着的蓝色花标本说：“这个治感冒。”我问他怎么治，是叶子还是花。他比划着告诉我把花用开水烫一下吃。
北京男生说我：“你是老驴吧？”我问：“你怎么知道？”他说：“凭感觉。”我问他怎么感觉的，他不说了。
我们三个正往山下去，男生一回头，发现寺院旁有个岔路口，有车停在那儿，原来“STOP”是停车场，要是写“BUSSTOP”或“PARK”我就不会误会了。
我们往回走，在路过一处泉水处洗手，准备吃我带来的苹果。这时，一辆崭新的客货两用小车向山上开过，小车的拖斗上放了一棵树，乍一看，像车开花了。树旁边有箱子。车经过时，味道很难闻。
北京男生严肃地看着车经过，然后对我说：“这是运死人的。藏族习俗，运死人的车要放一棵树。”
我们走回了停车场，同伴都在等我们。
来的时候是夜车，不觉得怕，现在看山路，真陡。我正在想只容一辆车过的山路是不是要分时段上山、下山，对面忽然过来一辆车，还是卡车。卡车靠着山体停下，我们的中巴沿外侧经过，司机收起了后视镜。我望着山下，心想可别掉下去了，被天葬。
回去的路上，路边有许多树，还有小河，或是滩涂。黄色的树，蓝色或绿色的河水，水边的沙滩，国内我也去了不少地方，没见过这样美的。我们的司机说现在藏民也像汉族那样双休日就出来玩，在水边烧烤，洗衣服。
我们两辆车的司机是叔侄俩，开我们车的是侄儿。他谈到他叔叔时，表示不理解：“他找了个汉族女朋友!”
经过一个地方，有牌子写着“松赞干布出生地”，我想看，当然没有人理我。
路上经过一个岔路口，沿岔路口上山就是藏族另一个重要的寺院，甘丹寺。我想看，但同车的人都说累了，或是寺院都差不多，都不愿去，我只能放弃。第一次从西藏回来后，我买了一大堆关于西藏的书，有的只草草看了一遍，有的一遍都没看。现在这些书都在合肥。早些把这些书好好看了的话，我这次在西藏能看懂很多东西。不过，我还会第三次来西藏的。
车回到了吉日，每个人付清了自己的费用，我和宇回到房间。勇发来短信，他今晚去格尔木，现在在玛吉阿米，我和宇赶到玛吉阿米，勇和他的一个朋友在这儿，后来勇的几个朋友又陆续来了。
看样子，勇和他的朋友们都是有一定经济实力的人，也有时间能在拉萨慢慢泡着。宇是单身贵族，还有父母要养，我已经做了志愿者，我们两个捉襟见肘的人只能听他们谈新式的户外装备。
我和宇点了酸萝卜牛肉丝，味道不错，就是份量太少。还点了印度油炸薄饼，配上香料士豆泥。我最爱吃土豆，油炸薄饼也相当不错，四张饼宇吃了一张，其余三张全给我抹了土豆泥吃了。
勇点了羊排，用刀把羊肋骨一根根割下来，分给我们。我和宇都吃了。我和宇看天葬前听说过它的血腥，打算看完后吃一个星期的素食的，没想到我们基本上不受什么影响，虽然我觉得被分割后的尸体很像菜市场里挂的--------
下午4点半，勇回房间整理东西，他5点半的车。我和宇继续到大昭寺晒太阳，然后沿着门口的步行街一直走到了布达拉宫。
3年前，我在拉萨想买一些学藏语的书，得知学藏语的书和磁带刚刚卖完。 3年后，我再想买，又被告知“刚卖完”，我曾托VINCENT给我在美国买，没买到。只有寄希望于在日本的阿英了。
霞发来短信，问我们在哪，他们请我们吃饭。我和宇于是赶过去。昨天他们追问我们在哪，我就是不说，他们已经猜到我们干什么去了。
吃完自助火锅，我和宇回吉日，霞跟着我们回去，看看自助旅行者的“家”到底是什么样的，也看看是什么样的招帖能让驴友们一见如故，共度好几天甚至更久。
回到吉日时已经晚上9点多，我和宇去洗澡，霞看完新鲜回他们住的宾馆去了。勇已经走了，房间里安排了另一个人，这回是个女孩。
下午14：04，古人来信：“你还好吗？准备什么时候回来？”
我回信：“刚看完天葬。约20号到上海。”
14：10，古人来信：“好啊，是托塔说有辆进藏车出事了，所以我不放心你。呵呵，昨天电视上看到你，很好看哦：-)”
他和托塔关心着我，我很高兴。我们的节目播出了，我很有成就感，可以向阿英、爸爸、妈妈交代了。我问：“能不能向电视台要一下录像带或光盘？谢谢。”
17：22，古人来信：“电视台播后一下子有十几个新人来注册，我有好几个朋友来打听你哦，嘻嘻，要不要给你介绍啊：-)”
16：56，静来信：“你回上海了吗？我在霍山天天都下雨，不过还是挺好玩的，别忘了把游记发给我。”
我把“刚看完天葬。约20号到上海。”发给了她。
16：58，静回信：“有什么感想？晚饭可以省下了。”
2003.10.9.四
早上7：15，霞来到我们门口接我们。王嫂和孩子因为要上班上学，已经乘飞机先回去了，王哥继续和我们呆一起。
中午，停车吃饭。下午，过八一、林芝县城。
林芝地区空气湿润，山上树木茂密，山脚有村庄，稻田，有马儿在耕地，小桥流水人家，真是江南。路上还有不少湿地。
傍晚，我们的车在路上堵住了：前方一辆大卡车陷进泥里，出不来。后来来了一辆挖掘机，新开辟一条路，我们才得以通过。
晚上，我们到鲁朗，吃了当地特产的石锅炖手掌参，在招待所住下，我和宇一个房间。
2003.10.10.五
早上，用昨晚没吃完的石锅炖手掌参泡饭吃，味道很好。
一路的风景几乎处处可拍照，难怪说“风情万种川藏线”。
我在车上赶<华西都市报>的稿子，工工整整地抄白纸上，准备传真过去。
我左手拿梨子吃，右手写字，发现白纸上有一截梨子柄，我正准备把它拂掉，它自己动了，还会伸缩。我对它再熟悉不过了：蚂蝗。
正在开车的小包回过头来，幸灾乐祸地问：“蚂蝗是不是被保护动物？”
我没有理他，让坐在车门口的小陈把纸上的蚂蝗拍掉。
这几张纸背面是复印的<标准日本语>课文，放在包里有一段时间了，好像只在看天葬那天拿出来放在塑料袋里。因为要赶日记和稿子，停车休息时我常常留在车里写字。难道蚂蝗是宇或小陈他们带进来的？他们自己并没有感觉啊。我只能再一次证实：我招蚂蝗。
路上有不少动物。有两匹马在路边。我们的车经过时，一匹马受惊，跑到我们车前面，小包开着车，中速追赶着马，还喊“驾驾”，我愤怒地叫小包：“你慢点!干嘛要吓它!”到了一个稍微宽阔的地方，马机灵地躲到路边。
小包和一辆大卡车会车时，小包的车在颠簸，坐在后排中间的我向前冲了一下，他们都笑了，以为是小包刹车的缘故，我说我在看鸟。我们的车前方地上站着一只鸟，黑色的背部，白色的腹部，漂亮极了。我怕小包的车轧到它，起身看。这是我第一次发现鸟有这样漂亮的。不久前，我第一次和世界自然基金会(WWF)上海分站的一群志愿者出去观鸟，那时还笑他们看到鸟比看到美女还激动，阿髅认真地纠正我：“是比看到帅哥还激动。”也不过3个月的时间，现在的我看到帅哥也许会多看两眼，但决不会有看到鸟儿的怜爱之情。
车到波密，住下。明天要赶早出发，想避开施工封路。宇睡了，我出去转转。
李老师说西藏有一种林蛙，希望我带一只标本回去。我碰运气的话，可以拍到它，标本是不敢带回去的，我没有本事捉到它，我也没带乙醚和瓶子。
公路两旁是新盖的门面房，两层楼，马赛克贴外墙，完全现代化的汉族建筑。门面房后面，过了桥，就是传统的藏族村庄了。我进了藏族村庄，沿着曲折的人家，终于到了村庄的尽头，这时已经是半山腰了。几匹马儿在草地上吃草，马的身后就是茂密的树林。我知道晚上一个人进山有多危险，我站着看了一会儿，返回了。
回去时迷路了，转进了藏族人家的院子里。我没有翻围栏，而是沿着院子一直走。走到尽头，居然院门是开着的，出了门就是村子的大道了。我顺利地回到了招待所。
2003.10.11.六
早上3：30起床，4：00出发。
路上，山脚是红的绿的黄的树，山腰是白云，山顶是白雪，美得无与伦比。
我们的车过了一处群山环绕的小盆地，山脚有村庄，马儿在吃草，好一处风光。幸而这是在遥远的西藏，要是在上海，肯定有人要盖别墅了。
12：50，我们的车还是在一处柏油路面被挡住了，要等4个小时，便道也不准走。
紧跟着我们的是一辆公安局的车。过了一二十分钟，修路工跑过来告诉我们可以走了。我们赶紧跟着公安局的车下了便道。所谓便道，其实就是山坡，从山坡直接下到山脚，那儿有一条路。山坡很陡，小包说至少有40度，我都有了下车自己走的念头，宇倒是很镇静。
我们平安地下到便道上。
很快就到了八宿。上午波密的风光真美，以为川藏线都是这样，到了中午，忽然山上就没树了，然后变成土山，空气变得干燥起来。从八宿出发，一路黄土高坡，车辆带起的灰像白云一样。
出了八宿，正在开车，有手机短信，是古人12：11发来的，我过了2个小时才收到：“我朋友在苏格兰皇家银行，现在招一名财务，主要是做办公室里的报销等工作，一个月大概5000元左右，你愿意去试试吗？如有意，回来后马上联系我。”
进外资银行是我还在中国建设银行时的梦想，现在机会来了。
我立刻想到烟和衡理，我要是去苏格兰皇家银行，太对不起他们，没有人能代替我。
前不久，烟交给我一笔费用，公益事业需要各种开支，这实际上是烟自己的钱。我的工资也在里面，不过我一直不好意思支取。来西藏前，我一次支取了两个月的工资，因为我身边的钱够我去西藏，却不够我回来的了------
这时我才意识到我付出了多少，很想对烟和衡理娇娇地诉苦：“我为你们作出多大牺牲--------”
烟和衡理都是做管理者的人，眼光锐利，不用我说，他们会知道我这次，以及之前和以后为公益事业放弃的工作机会。
我一直奇怪衡理怎么挑中我的：他只在户外见过我一次，就对烟提起我可以协助他管理复兴学校。而烟之前也只在户外见过我两三次，读过我两三篇文章，就对我说：“你以为我不了解你!”烟后来修正了一下：“我了解你在上海，不了解你在合肥。”我在合肥的经历像我的简历一样透明。
烟是WWF上海分站的上届版主，古人是这届版主。有意思的是，古人一直反对我到烟的办公室，他一直催促我“找工作、恋爱、结婚”，我淘气地问：“顺序能不能倒过来？”古人严肃地说：“不能。”我生气地说：“我不工作就嫁不出去了？”古人再也不敢说我了。
一个小时过去了，我平静了下来，也想好了怎么回答古人。
晚上，车到了左贡，在政府招待所住下。我给古人回信：“很想去，我正为钱所困，但我不能对不起烟和衡理，我答应他们接手复兴学校。一切会好起来的。谢谢关心。”
我发现了自己的脆弱：那么多梦想，关于NGO，关于救助弱势群体，几乎全部放弃了，为了一个月5000元。还有阿英，他会对我失望的。如果我是因为生活所迫而出去工作，他会理解，但我现在并没有到那一步。有烟和衡理的关心，我也不可能到那一步。
烟和衡理很清楚我一个人在上海的生活成本有多高。我和一个女孩子合住两室一厅，女孩子和她男朋友住在一起，房租、水电费我和女孩均摊。我有一次对烟和衡理抱怨水电费的不公平，衡理立即严厉指责我：“不要算小钱!这些会严重破坏你的心情!”衡理要把我培养成为杰出的女性，不能容忍我成为琐碎的小女人。而烟则提出了他的赵氏解决办法：“你也拽个男的和你一起住--------”
其实我和女孩子相处得很和谐，同在上海屋檐下，我们都懂得谦让。实际上，我们很少见面，我经常加班，回家已是深更半夜，他们已睡下。早上，我们也避开共同用洗漱间的时间。
2003.10.12.日
今天一直翻山。路上，我和霞在聊天，我在谈动物保护，正在开车的锋忽然问我：“你喜欢小孩子吗？”
“喜欢啊。”我说。
锋没再说话。
霞递给锋一纸盒牛奶。过了一会儿，锋递了一纸盒牛奶给我，我说：“我不喝，谢谢。”锋说：“空的。”
我们都笑了。锋要是把纸盒随手扔到外面，还得我捡起来。锋已经说我是“垃圾婆”。
下午车到芒康，停下来补胎。这儿是川藏线和滇藏线的交界处。我们在一家面馆吃面。面本来应该有韧性，但经高压锅一焖，变得软软的。
晚上到巴塘，在巴塘住下。
2003.10.13.一
今天在山路上，与军车相遇。我数了一下，有七十多辆。
我是上午唯一数车的，结果，下午一有军车，锋就对我说：“数数!”他说我“有心”。我数到一百辆时睡着了。
今天总共有约三百辆军车。山路很窄，当有军车通过时，我们只能退到可以会车的地方，看着前方山路上不断出现绿色的军车车厢，没完没了。
下午，我和锋在车上“摆龙门阵”。路过工地，有帆布搭的简易厕所，霞问我去么，我说不去，于是车没停。这给了锋灵感，他威胁我：“再惹我就不停车，看你怎么求我!”
晚上6点50，我们到“世界高城”理塘。老王和霞在面馆点晚餐，我到街上转转，买了10斤桔子和大小苹果各4斤。我看到比山楂略大的小苹果时，问：“这是什么？”藏民回答：“乌就。”我问：“多少钱一斤？”他说：“包就。”我明白了他说的是五角(一斤)。他说的“好吃”我倒是听懂了。
吃完晚饭，我们继续赶路，到了雅江。雅江的住宿很紧张，一番周折，我们三个女生睡双人间，加一张床铺。男生们则各显神通，反正都睡了。
2003.10.14.二
今天过的军车约有270辆。
中午，我在睡觉，老王说：“她睡觉了。”
霞说：“所以才能养精蓄锐，不累。”
老王又说了什么我没听清，霞说：“她遇到什么都不惊不吵，坦然接受。”
他俩共同评定我为“九段”。
锋问：“说谁？”
霞说是我，锋不说话了。
下午，我们到康定，这座城因一首情歌而闻名。有意思的是，我和宇、霞都是待字闺中的“溜溜的大姐”。这儿，汉藏的和谐完美地反映在了建筑上：藏式建筑注重窗户和雨檐的装饰，新盖的汉式楼房在铝合金阳台处加上藏式装饰后，一下子生动起来，而且一座楼一种风格。有一座楼房，是一家单位，称得上建筑美。再看旁边那些稍早一点的汉式楼房，那么苍白、单调。我想起有人评价上海的一些“欧洲花园”：在门口放两座雕塑就敢称“欧洲”，要身材没身材，要气质没气质，还好意思不穿衣服。
宇来过这儿，推荐我们到了一家卖牦牛肉的商店，味道果然很不错。
我们到一家小店吃血旺。不出意外的话，这是我们“最后的晚餐”了。今晚，我们准备侥幸过二郎山，明早就分手了。
晚餐堪称价廉物美。吃完晚饭，大家对两周的行程作了总结，好几个队员作了发言，我没有发言，一直抓紧时间趴在餐桌上写日记。
出了饭店，我们直奔二郎山。路过大渡河铁索桥时，我正在车上睡觉，霞叫我：“快看铁索桥!”
铁索还是当年的铁索。铁索上横铺了约10厘米宽的木板，木板与木板间的空隙也有10厘米宽。木板上面，和铁索平行的方向，用五列木板连了走道，三列在中间，还有两列分别在两边。从中间的三块木板并排形成的走道上走过去不可怕，从两边的单块木板连成的走道上走就有些吓人了，可以看到脚下的河水。霞不敢从单块木板上走，我则冒险踩在直接架在铁索上的横木板上。我踩的时候，有些害怕，木板要是断了，我就掉到江里了，虽然我手抓着链子。
过了大渡河，没多久，我们的车被一个穿制服的人拦住了。从这儿到成都，可以一直走山路，很远。新修的二郎山隧道还没有完工，分单双日通行，单进双出，按规定，我们的车应当明天下午5：30才能走。
我们停的地方恰好有一个小店。我和霞吃雪糕，宇不吃。
我和霞在车内坐着，我透过车窗看到身高1.76米的锋搂住矮小的店主，两人亲昵地笑着。一会儿，锋探进头来，对霞说：“给我100块钱。”霞给了他。
又过了一会儿，锋在车门旁转悠，却不进来。坐在副驾驶座上的老王催他，锋说：“他并没有直接收钱。”老王说：“钱都给了，还怕什么。”这时，店主站到我们车边，摆动手叫我们走，我们于是走了。
我问锋：“你怎么知道价钱？”
锋说：“店老板说，一辆车50。”
我又问：“你怎么知道要找店老板？”
锋似乎答非所问：“一般找店老板就行了。”
我们很气愤，商量着曝光什么的，但收钱的是店老板，不是穿制服的人。
有不少车和我们一样。这无本生意真是好啊，对店老板来说，则是双重利润。
车进二郎山隧道时还有收费站，我们的车收20元。二郎山隧道完全可以并行两辆车，要不然，那个穿制服的人也不敢收钱。
2003.10.15.三
天还没亮，王哥、老王、小陈陆续下车了。
我们已经到了成都市，我让锋先去火车站，我买了当晚10点多去西安的票，这正是锋想要的时间：既不耽误我请他吃火锅--------从我29号凌晨到成都起，一直是他照顾我--------也不让我有机会再烦他一个晚上。
我们先到一家通宵营业的面馆吃面，然后送宇去岷山饭店，那儿有去机场的班车，宇离开成都去深圳工作已经十年。再送霞回家。剩下的人到了锋家里。
锋的安排是：他和小包睡觉，我写稿子。我当然不肯，在机子上录入了一点写好的稿子(只写到刚到拉萨)，我就在沙发上睡了。我快睡着了，锋这个勤快的单身汉还在拖地，电视里一遍又一遍地播什么火箭上天，后来才知道是载人火箭上天。
中午，锋还在睡，我起来赶稿子，来不及把已经写在纸上的稿子录入到机子里了，我直接写没写完的部分。小包也起来了，看我写，并在我吃东西时帮我录入已经写好的文稿。
小包看到我写的我和宇、霞都“待字闺中”，问我“待字闺中”是什么意思。我看着他，他不像开玩笑，我不好意思解释，就不理他，他于是问锋，这时锋已经起来了，在厨房洗脸。锋说：“就是还没有出嫁。”小包恍然大悟：“原来就是嫁不出去的老妹子。”
下午5点40，我匆匆把文章写好，和锋出去吃火锅，霞为我践行。家住滕州的小包已经有人来接，加上他感冒又腹泻，没和我们去吃火锅。
锋的侄儿和我们一起到火锅店，吃了两碗蛋炒饭就去上班了，剩下我们三人一边吃，一边喝雪花啤酒，一边聊。
我这才知道锋原先在政府部门工作，91年时，刚工作的他月薪达到600元，但法律专业的他只工作了8个月就为了自己的理想而辞职了。我戏称在政府文化部门工作过的他“难怪你看起来有文化”。
我感谢他们一路上对我的照顾，而且我的费用是最低的，连别人的一半都不到。霞说：“你的要求也是最低的。”
锋坦率地说我“迂腐”。路上，他们有时说要轧死动物是同我开玩笑，我也知道是玩笑，但我不能容忍他们吓唬动物。锋还建议我“不要找个志愿者”，我奇怪地问：“为什么？”他说：“一个还能忍受，两个就受不了了。”在路上，我威胁随手向车窗外扔空矿泉水瓶的锋：“再扔，把你的脑袋敲成菠萝!”后来，锋好多了，而且是他自己有了环保意识，并不是怕后脑受敌。
锋批评我和宇一样，对同龄异性戒备心太重，不能像对待比我们小的异性那样自然、宽容。他说男人不是通过年龄来划分的。一路上，我和宇对任何事都不抱怨(我和宇都是老驴，知道路上会有各种事，也知道这些事以后都会成为“好玩”)，唯有对小包颇不满。和我们差不多大的小包言谈举止常有出格的地方，这恰是身为单身知识女性的我和宇最忌讳的。我们习惯了男同事的彬彬有礼，虽然我们也知道在我们面前被迫彬彬有礼的男同事可能一转身会极其下流。锋的提醒使我意识到，对我和宇来说，我们在路上遇到的男人可能才是真正的、真实的男人。
我问锋以后怎么办，极限体育对体力要求很严格，他已经33岁。锋说他不参加比赛，但可以做组织者。锋、霞、我，我们都从别人眼中的“金饭碗”跳出，走了自已喜欢的路。锋说这是“不归路”。其实，任何一条路都是不归路。
晚上9点50，我们离开火锅城，去火车站。霞已经事先给我买了4个面包、2袋牛奶、2瓶橙汁。
到了检票口，霞对检票人员说：“她东西那么多，可以送她上车吗？”检票人员看了看我说：“男的可以上车。”于是，锋一直送我到座位上。车快开了，我催促锋下车。
22：15，霞发来短信：“一路顺风!我们会时常想起你的!：-)”
我回信：“你们是谁呀？哦，是对我很好的人嘛。保持联系。想你们了怎么办？呜呜------”
23：50，霞来信：“我们和另一个报社的朋友还在单身情吧喝酒哦!想加入吧？我们会祝福你并想念你的!”
我回信：“哼哼，我还要喝!流口水ing”。
00：16，霞来信：“看来你只有一个人在车上喝雪碧了!喝酒醉了多危险啊!”
我回信：“不喝了。我要睡觉了。回上海慢慢喝。男生排队买单呢。”
00：28，霞来信：“好羡慕哦!睡个好觉，做个好梦哈!”
2003.10.16． Four
中午到了西安，买了明天晚上回上海的车票。记不清几次路过西安，却从来没有停过。
背着沉重的行李的我只能在火车站附近住下，还好，邮政公寓4人间才18元一个人。
房间里已经有了一个女孩，她热情地问我姓什么，我迟疑了一下，说了我真实的姓，没说名字。她倒是把她的全名都说了。
她问我什么安排，我说没什么事，准备出去转转。她说我们一起吧。我说好啊，多个伴也挺好，还可以节省费用。
她忽然说：“可以帮个忙吗？”
我警觉起来，问是什么。她让我发条短信给某个人，她要找一个人没找到，只有通过这个人来找。我答应了，但告诉她我手机电不多了。
她口述，我在手机上输短信，她说“我叫------”，和她刚才告诉我的姓名完全不一致。我若无其事地一边输短信，一边问她：“是你吗？”
她说：“是我。我有好几个身份证，在全国各地都有朋友。”
我没再问。
她还要继续口述，我借口字数太长，输不下。她央求我再发一条，我很勉强地答应了，同时告诉她，对方来短信我会告诉她，来电话我不会接的，我卡上没钱了。她说对方不会来电话的。
她说发的这个人是她哥。我没有哥哥，不清楚妹妹对哥哥说话是什么语气，但从她发短信的语气来看，对方不可能是她亲哥哥。不久，收短信的人回信，说他也找不到那个人。
我和这位告诉我她姓张，在短信上又姓王的小姐一起出门。时间不早了，只能去大雁塔。路上，我很想甩掉她，又怕激怒了她，晚上防不胜防。
锋说我对异性太戒备是不准确的：我对同性也充满戒备。
她在路上话很多，且多为“高见”，我努力不去听。她的眼光很敏锐，说我“独立性很强”。我进房间时为了解释我带了那么多行李，说我刚从西藏回来。
我盘算了一下，论智力，她应该不是我的对手。但她阅书不多，阅人不少。有一点她没看准：我看起来比我的实际年龄要小，而且带着书卷气，在外面常被当成学生，她也以为我是八十年代出生的学生。此时，我轻描淡写地说：“和导师在那儿有个课题。”如果她再问，我就会抛出<上海城市受损、退化生态系统的近自然恢复>，我已经准备把自己冒充为达良俊老师的学生，反正达老师不会生气。还好，她没有再问。
到了大雁塔，大雁塔在慈恩寺里面，她不进去，说在外面看看就行了，我轻松地一个人进去。出来后，我故意对她说：“不进去是对的。慈恩寺门票25元，进大雁塔还要门票20元。”我猜到她可能没钱了。
大雁塔门前的广场上，有一片人工草坪。这种草需要大量的水来维护，而西部缺水。英国的草坪很美，因为那儿的气候适合长草。大雁塔门后的地方被封了起来，看墙上的效果图，建成后会和前门一样是一片拿钱砸出来的人工草坪。这么宝贵的两片空地，如果用来种本地树种，不但维护费用很低，对调节整个西安的气候都很有益--------
回去的路上，我提议停下来吃晚饭，她到IC电话亭前说要打电话，我想听她电话的内容，殷勤地说要等她打完电话再一起吃饭，她坚持要我直接去吃饭，我于是先进了饭店。
我快吃完了，她进来了，什么也不吃。
我们一同回到宾馆，房间里又来了两个女孩，我放心了。我洗漱回来，这个姓张又姓王的小姐已经把我去过西藏宣传了一遍，一个女孩问我：“西藏好玩吗？”我淡淡地回答：“还好。”姓张又姓王的小姐和另两位小姐交换属相，问到我属什么时，我镇静地问：“干嘛？”她没追问。我和她对于对方来说都是谜，我对她不感兴趣，但防着她。她对我感兴趣，但不用防着我。
她和另一个女孩出去了。我给手机充电。我在她们回来时把手机和电池收到包里，包放在被子里，手穿过包带，睡了。
2003.10.17.五
我们的房间紧靠着铁路，我发现火车鸣笛的声音不但有长短的区别，还有高低之分。但我还是睡得不错。锋已经发现我“你好能睡哟”。
我起床时，那个可疑的女孩还在睡觉。我把行李寄存好，放心地出去了。
原计划上午乘公交车去兵马俑，下午去博物馆呆到要上火车。在火车站广场，我禁不住劝说，上了东线一日游的旅游车(兵马俑在东线)。我再次后悔自己的“善变”。烟一直批评我工作容易受干扰，他说“定了计划就要执行”。我已经意识到所谓“成功人士”就是比别人经历了多得多的挫折的人士，他们的成功只是他们善于反省而已。
旅游车上有导游，讲解得不错。只是到了景点会进去，已经到门口了嘛，好在几个景点都还值得一看。我们去了西安事变时蒋介石被捉的地方，我看到两块大石头上的小洞--------西方有报道说蒋介石的名字寓意着他有一天会“介于石头之间”--------有人往上爬。我也往上爬，不顾同车导游的反对。石头上安了铁链，抓着铁链的我也介了一回石，从小洞下来时，洞里的土有些湿润，我稍稍滑了一下。除此之外，难度是有的，但不是很危险，我的硬底鞋不适合于攀岩。我下来时，听到有人议论：“她是专业爬山的。”我很佩服当年有人穿着睡衣、拖鞋也能爬上去------
中午，车停在一个蓝田玉的销售点门前，我对蓝田玉不陌生，我初中时就在一本小说<海妖的传说>里读到李商隐的“蓝田日暖玉生烟”，不过我什么都没买，虽然我一直想着作为女孩子，我应该带着一块玉防身，宁可信其有。跟的旅游团多了，都会有一点辨别玉器、珍珠的常识。
下午去兵马俑。我在上午几个景点都准时到了集合点，只有兵马俑迟到了二十多分钟。如果不是想着车上的人在等我，我可以在兵马俑呆一整天甚至更久。
回到火车站，我沿着站前的马路一直走到了古城墙，在上面走了走，发现城砖破损的地方居然是用水泥补的，划成了砖的形状，颜色非常刺眼。梁思成早在半个世纪前就提出“修旧如旧”。梁思成的妻子，美丽的才女林徽因曾在北京城墙被拆掉时说：“你们现在拆掉的是真古董，有一天你们想恢复了，恢复的是假古董!”那对夫妇亲眼看着北京城墙被拆掉时是怎样的痛心？如今，他们的儿子梁从诫(“自然之友”的创办者)正为环保而四处奔走------
时间到了，我回到邮政公寓，取回行李，上了火车。
2003.10.18.六
事非经过不知难。以前总笑那些做了领导的人下班还想着公事是公私不分，不会享受生活。等到自己有一天也独挡一面，才知道作为组织者是没有下班时间的，锋和霞已经笑我“出门还带着公事”。在西藏的日子里，我已经把回来后一直到复兴学校寒假结束前要做的事、要见的人大概想了一遍。
我发现我已经离不开公益事业。经历了古人告诉我外资银行有个工作机会时的痛苦选择，我知道以后再有这样的机会我不会再那么痛苦了。
中午火车到上海，晚点一个多小时。下了火车，我直接乘地铁去徐家汇的办公室写游记。游记是私人的东西，我不想占用上班时间，星期一上班以后要做的事情一大堆呢。
半夜，游记才写了一部分，我没有回家，而是在办公室里铺了防潮垫，钻到睡袋里过了一夜。
2003.10.19.日
今天继续写游记，不写完不回家。同时登录MSN。朋友们在MSN上看到我，纷纷来问候，我很感动。
作者：hudiehua
