That same year there were four individuals travel in Xinjiang. In addition to me, and the other three are French. According to their pronunciation of the name that I have played a Chinese name for them. Philharmonic friend (Alban), and Weiwei Yin (Vivien) are two brothers, there is a way off (Loic) - Towering natural classmates.
The first time we met, we discussed the road. I remember the French edition of China opened a towering natural guidebook - which sandwiched a bookmark. His finger points somewhere, saying that "we want to go here." I pulled out a map book, found the place: Muztag. Altitude of 7546 meters, the Pamirs. Prior to that, "parents do not travel to distant lands," I, Teng in a hot-head - I know, I hit a can not refuse temptation.
A month later, people in Kashgar. From here, the beginning of our Muztagata trip.
The summer in southern Xinjiang, the air filled with the taste of the sun. In a bright morning, we boarded the shuttle bus Kashgar to Taxkorgan. Bus line which is commonly referred to as Pakistani roads, keep on going up to Khunjerab port. Encountered a few passengers on board Hong Kong, according to which a MM said that the mainland people to go in this direction, they had first to apply for border passes in Kashi - not in front of checkpoint will not be released. Hear I am very worried to know where to do this呀.
Before noon, to gez checkpoints get off checks. A car who had always, as I am detained with. Now that I think, in my performance that day, enough to impress any recruit sales capitalists. Skip this process does not form, because it is grinding more than 30 minutes, my identity card charge there, people were released later. Xi Zizi Ben on the train, kindly wait for my driver resumed. Joy, however, gradually give way and the increase in altitude, people began to squint paste into the semi-sleep state. Mo is about 12 points and more like the road a customer called me and said, "Carla Curry Lake is up, we have here, under half-way."
Out of the car, Kara Curry lake before us. Mountain breeze swept the lake, rolled-up wave after wave of light waves, patting the shore, looking far, the green from the shallow water deeply, rippling with, such as the passing of stones. The mountains above the lake side, proudly a Xuefeng, feeling very close to the peak is rounded, than the peaks of those thin, a bit more kindly, but without losing dignity; noon, the sun shone on top of a layer of orange-Long Zhao the red light, a kind of breathtaking power of intake, which is Muztagata. Even now, many years later, I still glance at the face of this mountain is difficult to expressions of feelings, first thing that strikes a child inside their own homes off for too long as a child, what has been released, in addition to acting wildly happy, open pairs Arm front of it barking "Muztahgata", others know nothing. "Muztahgata" I have learned in the car now, which means "Father of the iceberg."
They were three, I do not know anyone who read the table above sea level, saying that 2900 meters. Weiwei Yin, pointing Muztagata, claiming that our goal is to reach the snow line. Yanba everyone some irrepressible lofty and rest, go the whole backpack full go, set off on foot!
The first lake upstream along the card to go there is a peaceful grassland, streams vertical and horizontal. No signs of human habitation on the grassland, scattered with grazing horses, laid-back shape of the object of envy. Go for a while in front of tasikmalaya a path from the road off to the mountains of Pakistan, through the grasslands, forming a beautiful extension of the line. The end, is a small village; the village behind, as if close at hand, and that is call our snow-capped mountains. Although near looked at, however, the village has a full walk took one hour. Village, no people, but they unexpectedly encounter a French ass, old man lying in the sun entrance of the village do. His entry from Pakistan, and told us a bit Kan travels. What impressed me most is that he speaks of "Taliban" - is very powerful, chances are would be in power and so on.
Do donkeys in France, everyone from the village to continue into the mountains behind. At this time, differences emerged --
Village a stream is obviously melting snow-capped mountains of water, shunxi-on, is the most natural route; however, not far from the pass look inside, we see a clear car India, seems to just stay long.
Controversy in the Philharmonic and the towering natural brothers friends, between a talk about following the stream, one finds that rut, clamored on the more on the enthusiasm, no one who is not satisfied. 2 fights blood upwelling of the road is not a passenger made a statement; for me, intuitively feel more secure walking streams, but said nothing, because no one did not want to offend. Those of us from childhood are required to "warm, good, Kung, Kwok-him, so that", and many have cultivated a habit of - could even say that instinct - to be a clear stand whenever the time, love to sit on the fence choice. Neither amicable, and afterwards not of shared responsibility, best of both worlds; Well done, that human weakness, but also won the reputation Laochengchichong. My consciousness was very high, on the spot sitting on the fence. In the end, "rut school" prevailed, and we discard the stream from the Yamaguchi Entering.
The first 1 hour to go very easily. 2,3 o'clock in the afternoon, the sun very well, although the mountains and the lack of vegetation, and scenery are few, but looked up the visible peaks, let's spirits are not reduced, all the way walking and talking. Talk to the school and teachers, the students found that the world is one, are Tongsu "revolutionary history." I remember a teacher has always been a towering natural that unnecessarily browbeat, but have changed their style a certain day, they had done to encourage: "Vous etes futures bourgeois." (You are the future of the middle class.) Came here, they can not help but laugh Sa , it is thieves. Asked only after understand that these words with us now to say "the times" has a similar humorous effects.
The time to shed, turned a Road Hill, stepping on the foot of gravel, a kind of hard to explain the anxiety in the air ballooning with, like the same smell. At first, yes I am a bit can not keep up the pace of their three, they walked down a length, but they did not, etc. I mean, can only keep pace with the tight. So with a few back, began to sweat, back in the 40 kilograms weight is also out. Would like to propose a break, but the idea of coercion in this Yoshikatsu hearts go on: "Sa foreigners can do it, I am why not?" So to pull its weight compared with their teeth. Wait until the road was finally asked one passenger and the first break, I have a butt to sit on the floor, and my heart like the old Q proud. Mountains, wind, sweat was dry, and body chill, and in short-sleeved sweater outside, added a piece - I have brought the most thick clothes, and then move on. Khan also walked one, was again dry, and so several times, breathing became heavy, and could hear his breathing; this not what is more painful is that feel like cold, and a vague headache , a while a while children like children like to be split, and hate only find cooper Carpenter put my head up to the hoop. Q. How do they feel the road a passenger said that it was altitude sickness, he will have, but they all landed on Mont Blanc, slightly better than I would like to point. Fortunately, the number of rest and more, you can drink water, sit resume recovery. However, the ensuing problem is that kettle underwater very quickly. Weiwei Yin backpack, there are water purification tablets, but saw no water in this way. I shook my own water bottles, nearly half left.
The sky dimming, we are further and further deep. Just because living in this mountain, Muztagata instead of sight. Once again, we sit down and rest, an unexpected scene occurred:
Weiwei Yin drinking water, muttering that kettle where the water is running out, he turned right side of the Philharmonic friend said: "You have two bottles of mineral water bag not do, give me a bottle."
Philharmonic Peng rejected without thinking: "No, this is my own to buy."
"I do not how much water the kettle."
"You drink fast, what my business!"
"You're his mother really selfish!" Towering natural urgency.
"Pooh! This Road, who is to go to?"
The next two brothers, my first experience of a French-language swearing Daquan, indeed complement the classroom inadequate. However, to see if they swore at each other viciously, but I made cold palm, speaking less than life and death, just is not enough water fills Zende the panic and draw the line at some point? Ma Zhao gang secretly "nascent," the guy as he also could not help but figured that he left how much water, eat more of the bag. Suddenly find themselves also think so, but it happens filled with dark thoughts my mind. They also Jijiwaiwai to Ma Zhe, but soon as hear the way a customer Flaring: "speaking, all his mother to shut up bar!"
Then with one sentence: "Now the U-turn too late."
A deadly silence. Warm response from the moment I thought this proposal, but the body seems to be a force pulling, still sitting on the ground intact. Mixed with missish Yoshikatsu heart at this time and again prevailed, and suppress all other thoughts, "is to be removed, the first one I will never go back." So stiff for a few minutes, the two brothers iron her face, each on her own bag, went forward, followed by road is also a passenger stood up, finally me. No U-turn. But this argument gives us the psychological cause are enormous, four people meandering the line, watching as we each go our separate ways have been, not a collective of.
Walk in the end, I felt the sweat, from the head, the body being constantly squeezed out of a wet sweater. My strength seems to be through such forms, ranging from the loss of my body, leaving only a progressive limp for Chou Pinang. Physical limits, can still manage to support competitiveness in the will; real torture is in the heart of the war, because when we are back on the road, I know I missed the last opportunity to request suspension of the journey. Evening daylight is faded, almost every moment, evening mist on the heavy layer of. I have been haunted by a kind of panic, as if not the night before, but step by step, go into the dark side. I have some regret the one hand, questioned the significance of this trip the one hand, they deny their own challenge. May be the role of altitude sickness, which meant the end regret piled up, long into snakes began to bite my nerves. Hysteria is almost instant burst, I could not help curb the emission of all kinds of foul language, Mamalielie to curse these three bastard deceive me to come here; I do not even aspire to something even a little effort, they Qiandaowangua. Because of my moving, they turned back, looked at me in dismay, even though I do not know what to say, but they seem to understand, complex silent walk in front. Now think back, I was sure that is revealed to no very nice shape. After that, I Fyodor Dostoevsky wire be interested in something, because people is such a great presence, who went so far as to hide the other himself. In the future when I changed to a convention of the Mask for all kinds of warmth-like Si mixed in the city, I often cold-called to ask ourselves: This is the real me?
Tianquan dark. In July of the Pamir night actually so cold, cold waves hit, I have the name of shiver, regret did not multi-band clothes. Ate a few chocolate, no avail. Nearly 10 points, I dragged two legs, I suddenly felt dizzy, people suddenly lighter. Quickly in situ stood a moment, the soul re-homing. Sa I stopped them, saying that Buxing Le, camping on the bar here. They said OK, and then walk forward, to find good spots. Is being walked on, head-on gust of wind, faint voice heard! We spent physically and mentally, like the red balloon of gas, suddenly plump up again. Towering ran a slide in front of children ran up a hill, and then swept our excitement shouted: "Here it was!" We Hula soon as all rushed up. In front of the valley, there are a few lights, like a nomadic people, standing height, the children of the children crisp sound, such as the Teana came.
I have forgotten how the door to the yurt. The only impression is that the two find themselves all wet trouser legs, as if wading through a creek down the way Ben. Yurt owner is very warm, and let us all in. But the problem is he did not understand my words of Han. Are hard to deal with it, come in a girl asked me in Mandarin: "Where are you from?"
I immediately said the general situation, and spend the night in a night. Girl agreed, let's go next door to the yurt with her. Re-seated, that I think of it asked her: "You are what family?"
"Kirgiz." She replied.
Four individuals to bag turned out to eat and started dinner. Ran looked at the towering elevation of the table, almost 3900 meters. Yurts l fire, and warmth from every pore penetrated into my body, and I will bite the bullet and the way, was a warm fire licked the entire line ablation. Just ate two chocolate, without a moment felt a while nausea and vomiting. Hold in a half a minute, and finally feel that not, hurry Duomen out of the stomach up badly, the whole spit seeds. Who seemed to light, and feel that they float up faster, so that the cold wind of the will, consciousness fairly clear, and slowly rub back yurts. They are three little nervous and asked if I have something. I waved his hand as a signal to still OK. Kirgiz girl rushed out and pour a bowl of tea to me, say something to drink hot bar. A milk tea drink, the thinking about a good point, it turns violent reaction, so I rushed out to go Tude be emptied as normal. I bent over, hands and insisted on his knees, then sad, but it happens speechless. Road, a passenger out of my Rotary inside. The girl did not dare to let me drink tea with milk, and a bowl of hot water. I rinse the mouth, and then drank one to the pressure on, but my stomach even this saliva are sung no less than by immediately come on top again. I had just stuck outside the door, they sprayed the. How much a day without food, spit into this third, his mouth full of bitterness, I think probably the bile out. My head in the circle expanded to look at the immediate dark and clear, then legs, a soft thump on the planting go on.
After the memory is fragmented. It was my frame into the yurt and took me into the sleeping bag next to me moved to the fire ... ... fire beep Bobo to ringing, faintly hear the towering ran the next day to borrow a horse herders send me down. Several moments full of regret as the ivy-like my mind, I began to miss home, as if he lay dying, then all of the sense of an end.
Wake up when the yurts quiet, just me. Sat up and found that head hurt, and have no other discomfort, I think of last night's case, Huangruogeshi. Walked outside, morning sun shone on his face, I suddenly felt like the gushing vitality of the sun, unlimited. With rapt attention, the old man in the Kirghiz far have greeted me, and gradually the past, chatted with him. Han, then only one point, he said here is the summer pastures, we must move away before the cold weather. Asked what his family, he said, and his son, daughter to stay together, spoke it pulled me to his house yurt sit. Old man on the warm side of tea, I drank while Delongwangshu - as early as pastoralists have heard what the horse breast drink a wine, so can not help but discuss the old man drink. Beginning he did not find out, I was not even say with hand gestures, the old man happy, and to acknowledge that what I say, give me a bowl of wine. Wine Xia Du, spiritual head on will come up and they find it is not very strong, drank the two bowls. Thanked the old man, self-satisfied to come out and can not give the carefree.
Sun has been in the mountains above the generous sway with its heat, the entire valley was shining bright and a lot. Then I discovered that I really was Muztagata feet, and the rise was its stalwart of the body. With the Muztagata distant sea, then another seat more than 7000 meters of snow-capped mountains - kongur peak. Two snow-capped mountains guarding of this piece of wilderness, the herders have driven out of their own flock of sheep, up to the hillside, a short while, countless white will spread the green meadow, on ... ... I was suddenly a great happiness surrounded, feeling experienced by all yesterday, nothing. The sun shines into my heart, and I thought of Wang Luobin song - "In that distant place", so they sing together facing the Pamirs. Singing attracted a group of Kyrgyz girl, around me, chattering; Road, a passenger and they are also being recruited Sa came, and look at me look like a vibrant, excited children one by one hug to congratulate me, saying that do not need to send me down the.
Back to the yurts, everyone wants to go to higher altitudes to dampen. Last night, the girl accompanied on one side, Gen Woliao the moment. She called spit Dole dry cloth ratio, the Health School in Artux school holiday to relatives to live here for a while, by the way Bang Bang hands. Provisional start spit Seoul dry cloth over the time invite us down, but also that they live in a living here.
From the ranch up, are we trying to noon before going to bed, hot lunch when some mashed potatoes. They brought the table maximum is 4,000 meters above sea level, this place has no reading of the. We talk a bit and decided to move forward with ease, to backpack all down, each bring their own water bottle, then a half-day sprint. Lu said that a passenger on the spot to give up, saying that more willing to lay here and enjoy a half-day sun. Philharmonic Peng, Weiwei Yin and I, went on to start. Not while I lagged behind, although there is a night of recovery, but it was almost physical. Muztagata never had a close, but one to turn the beam is a concave down valley Zaifan one to beam, but also go on a concave valley, endless; and more and more difficult way to go , more than 4000 meters, has little meadow, and full of rocks, in some places to be hands and feet Cai Xing. 15:00 more I tried to climb a big rock directly and avoid long detour results Jindao unable to leave, people threw it down, combined with some slope, but also down a bit from the roll. His reaction was quick, Bao Zhetou go on, who overwhelmed the several places.
The moment, I suddenly decided to give up. Climb this big rock is one of my bo, passed, would give her new hope. More important, my heart's desire to fell and 708 pieces he can not fight and fragmented. U-turn to go down when the heart a tight, and then empty yo, I know, and then washed the snow line back here is highly unlikely. To the local noon, half laughing at himself with the way a customer said that he failed, he was philosophically asked me: "do its utmost, and there is nothing to regret it?"
Before dark, friends, and towering Ran Philharmonic has down. Philharmonic Peng further than I am far, but later tired, give up. Went to snow and ice at the end only the towering natural one person. Night in the mountains camping, four individual drill in a tent. Road, a passenger next to me, mysteriously said to me: "Hey, I'm the first and paste the Chinese people so close to sleep." I said: "Unfortunately! You're not woman." Tent was silent for several seconds, and then burst out laughing.
On the third day early in the morning downhill. I would like to go through Kirghiz people's pastures, but several times above, the error went away Here's a very long time. Return was easy, we spent the whole day and returned to a lake next to the card. See the CMB highway, saw a car, I smell the smell of the city, but also to join the embrace of it.
A day later, back to Kashgar. After half a month, returned to Shanghai. I know people say all black gotten thinner, I was thinking, is a boy become a man.
This concludes the subject of the story of this effort, but still lingering on, after some words are still accountable.
The first is to wash Pile unpleasant pictures. The shop to shoot the film in my Muztagata wrong to the others, but give me a roll of "switching" over the meeting of the film. When I found several days later, rushed out of those this has become out of print. My photography hot from a comeback, and have always focussed on the text went.
The next turn of events even more I can not believe. Chat journey was the best way a passenger and left Shanghai in the summer of reunion Meet in the coming year, he brought another wave of students to Fudan University, with a few games that we play ball, then get together with both sides on. However, access to 97 years, the end of winter, when the French came the message: the road is a passenger in the Al-prepared knob skiing inadvertently reconnects, died. Those days are a bit trance-like, six months ago are enough to sleep in tents and Tobe's brother, Zende actually Tianrenyongge it? Later, a road went off a home, Grenoble, France, that is work them out. Although not winter, but because of my insistence, the French took me to a friend or a knob on the Al prepared by the resort. There is no snow in the mountains is a thick coniferous forest, so familiar, like most of our tour of the Tianshan Mountains with the ... ...
Then accompanied by friends and Weiwei Yin Philharmonic two brothers, and later saw towering over his brother ran, with swim Hangzhou. Fast forward several years, I do not know whether they are now from the "future of the middle class" among the middle class of the current?
Back in the Xinjiang Turku dry cloth ratio, I sent the receipt of the photos, gave me back a letter too. I remember that was also written in the past one or two, but over time scrubbing, but somehow the message has gradually broken. Now, she wanted to come should be a nurse in the hospital lovely.
As for me, to borrow a phrase lyrics is "without love there is no savings," wandering in Beijing and Shanghai several times between the excessive drinking is still only drank uphold the high talking past. Odalisque to do hair, sit, then Xuanzong, Tim smiled ear.
Youth, ah, the truth is the snow-capped mountains on a crystal of snow, when you full of joy, thinking that it is in the hand clutching heart, in fact, the technology was opened, drop by drop from the fingers to go between the Plaza, since unknowingly. He died before he was gone, and the living conditions injury, this early summer night, remember Muztagata, my snow-covered tombstones youth.
2003/6/12 Shanghai
Author: eric_cj
