When the plane slowly向那the broad expanse of land close to when I saw through the porthole-like neat grid of grass field, as well as scattered in the green grass scattered on the white, and blue interlaced winding rivers, I know I is necessary to enter the magic Hulunbuir prairie. This piece is located in the territory of China Rooster "comb" position of the land, away from my hometown of Pearl River Delta, thousands of miles away.
Hailar leaving the airport, the autumn wind gently blowing over.
"Beyond the Great Pearl" Hailar
Hailar is the center of Hulunbeier city, "Beyond the Great Pearl" laudatory. This prairie city surrounded by the mountain, Yimin River through the city, the city is divided into two parts, east of the river in Hexi. In our accommodation Hulunbeier hotels, opened the window you can see yiminhe river slim long, winding, as we have seen on the plane. River jade-like color is deep blue, a yellow-green pools of the plants embedded in the river is already a very beautiful picture. This is my Hailar, right Hulunbeier first impression.
Bordertown Manchuria
"Gate"
To Hulunbeier tourism, Manchuria, a non-a must. Sino-Russian border where the "gate." In fact, it was a rail across the Russian border inspection of the bridge, it is already some wear. Located in the territory of a door lintels are embedded with "The People's Republic of China" emblazoned across the former Soviet Union's "door" above are "CCCP" message.
The whole "door" in very rough shape, and some products, like the Russian style. In Manchuria, several companions had bought a high-powered binoculars. Although he knows that is not true Russian goods, but after some bargaining, from more than 200 referred to more than 100, much cheaper than in Guangdong, they contented to buy it. I did not buy, and later returned to Hailar, accidentally went so far as the price of 80 yuan to 150 yuan to buy a companion purchased under the 50 × 50 telescope. Watching companion's face, and my heart feels proud of.
Door near the pillar of China, 1993, li, No. 41. There is a tower not far post, with the Russian guards standing guard on top. We are looking in the past with a telescope and found that the young soldier just sat bored to read newspapers ramp. His hair shaved very clean, leaving only the head of the circle, "Watermelon", the entire shape is like a little more American soldiers. For the visitors side of the uproar, he had about used to it. We use telescopes to see him, and he also put the telescope take in the face. We waved to him and says loudly Bye-bye, he also waved languidly, echo Bye-bye.
It is worth mentioning that the road from Hailar to Manchuria to go through "mass graves." This is the year after the Japanese invaders in the construction industry in order to deceive the public and the killing of Chinese workers buried alive a witness. Military Engineering tens of meters deep in the ground, looked from the outside, but a large prairie soil slightly arched in a number of small packages. If it were not a local friend told me, I really do not know if there's such an important historical testimony. In fact, later discovered that the Japanese invasion of China like this leave a "traces the crime of" There are several places. Hulunbeier geographically belongs to the Northeast region, the history of the administration are also several classified the Northeast, "Manchuria" is the name of the first ring, but many people do not know that it is in Inner Mongolia.
Dalai Lake and a whole fish feast Hulunbeier named, from the territory of Hulun Lake and Bell Lake. Locals call the Hulun Dalai Lake. This was the first kidney-shaped lake in Inner Mongolia is located in the western Hulunbeier, but also the fifth largest freshwater lake in China. Circumference of 447 kilometers, maximum width of 41 kilometers, the deepest of 8 meters. We went there a view, a vast vastness of the waters to the beach with the feel almost. And the waters of the South is different is that there are no pollution. Lake rich in fish, we have to see a lot of people have branded the lake to the sale of dried fish and a dog.
Before he came here to hear the famous Chao Chao whole fish feast, try a meal, and indeed well-deserved reputation. Put a table was full, full of various fish. I did not know the fish has always been, so remember a few names, carp, catfish, carp, as well as specialty Dalai Lake's "beautiful white shrimp", in short, Yuemo 10 dishes, all of the various approaches of fish . For self-catering way that is quite versed in Guangdong, and this taste of Gordon and a whole fish feast may be not very good, but we forget it is typical of the kind of expansive grasslands. Master point of the 10 dishes in one breath, we do not feel anything, the first course up, we are very surprised everybody, because that dish large enough, the little basin, inside the piles of dishes to take a tip. Then second, third Road, a more than a large "basin" were brought to, I also attend to modesty, and his mouth the more the larger Zhang, finally could not resist each on a dish, on the way soon as Gui Jiao Ye . The weight of such a dish, a full equivalent to the four dishes of Guangdong restaurant. So one must register, equivalent to 10 dishes 40 dishes! We hasten to say that not so much, but no match for the master's enthusiasm, the last despite the desperate efforts of everyone still left a lot. We feel very sorry, but the owner does not believe that Italy, for them, the guests can not eat it, indicating their hospitality enough Shi-cheng. This is a "whole fish feast" experience, I have realized that the people of the prairie, "really."
Honghuaerji Pinus sylvestris Forest Park
Honghuaerji about 100 kilometers south of the Hailar, local small. Scene is very simple: a large grove, a lake, some scattered on the forest lakeside cabins. But this place, but it is my most memorable trip, the highlight.
This is a fantastic fairy-tale world, and has a bright fairy-tale world, the unique and lively.
That oval-shaped lake, even in the sun have also maintained a blue-Yingying colors. Lake there is a hill, overlooking from the top, blue lake in front of charming and spread, like the side of the block inlay sapphire crystal mirror. Several head of cows leisurely gray water in the lake. Dome, spire, flat, or four or oval, or pentagonal, all kinds of shapes cabins are available for tourists, the appearance of painted yellow, red, blue, green and a variety of colors, bits and pieces scattered on the lake and forest edges on. Point of view from which random shooting, is a Nordic style postcard.
Jimuyuantiao, endless lush forest Pinus sylvestris, from thick to short distance toward the extension of a pity that our camera did not shoot the ink wash ability. Pinus sylvestris called Hailaersong, the north valuable conifer species, there is the "Green Queen" known. In such high latitudes of the border zone, even in the winter to keep evergreen. Pinus sylvestris grow slowly, but the tree upright, Keke was tall and straight tapered upward and graceful.
Fast down the sun, and the distance the edge of the setting sun there is a large piece of flat grass, a vague shadow of the wooden fence, indicating it was once a pasture. Slanting sun to shine above the green grass to cast a layer of light yellow, it is an evening-specific colors, to lure us down the mountain to recover.
When we cross the woods, walked it a lawn, the sun's rays, the angle has been very low, thick grass hanging over the golden yellow, but also enveloped us. We rushed to pick up the camera, lens everyone's face and hair on the temples are the golden glow of a strange, spread out the slightest way. Reclining on the wooden fence has been abandoned, and perhaps everyone's mind flashed a shepherd and shepherdess bar fragments.
Ranch in the golden dusk, and later became a freeze-frame memory of the moment, like a burst of soft wind, gently across the heart, people moved to cry.
Honghuaerji night's very cool, very quiet. There companions burst into Chosho, distant echoes around a few laps before coming back pocket. Twinkling stars in the sky, bright and clear. Hisai city, I have never seen such a long time the beautiful Star, and looked up the occasion, I was reminded of the childhood hometown, so many stars in the sky is so bright, when I can clearly see the Milky Way.
There companions brought a CD player, a quiet night under the stars, music, extraordinarily clear and pure. But I do not dare to listen, here and now, music and a little emotional that tears come easily, it is also difficult to make good sleep a night I am afraid.
After a night in the cabin in the morning discovered the wonders of another one. The lake on the floating layer of blurred smoke a camel wander fairy floating around. The sun gradually rises, drive a smoke. Smoke and the battle and retreated, the lake was misty milky layer gradually dyed yellow, with red in Phnom Penh, and finally dissipated speechless.
In Hailar, there is a well-known Western Hills National Forest Park, Pinus sylvestris. Because of the time relationship, we did not go. I heard that the Honghuaerji coarse than Pinus sylvestris, but not the size of the Honghuaerji big woods.
Grassland, grassland
See cattle and sheep pastures arrival Hulunbeier ago, I made a dream, I and my companion riding on the high horse, moist and dense grass in flooded Matui, grass Grand Duo Grand Duo mixed with pink flowers .
This is clearly not a true prairie, at least not now grassland.
To the grassland know, the beautiful flowers is a grass killer. If a lawn begins to grow flowers, it shows degradation of the quality of the grass. I think my dream is not a pure prairie, the number of folders a bit swamp the taste, beautiful and dangerous.
And this year's drought has inevitably undermined the pastures here, I saw the plane on the lattice-like grasslands, is said to cultivate high-quality artificial grass. The large tracts of natural grasslands are degraded, in fact, we have not see the "wind-swept pastures see the cattle and sheep," a spectacular sight, without the wind, the grass is already so low, relatively sparse. But the kind of endless green, have not seen our gang prairie southerners, it's not consistent with "the green and wild boundless," the image of the.
There are a lot of prairie grass clumps protruding, in the flat on the grass seem unusual, it is remarkable. Local friends say that this is Malian, is president of grassland degradation, when out of cows and sheep do not eat. We walked all the way to see and sometimes surrounded by cows and sheep on the Malian equatorial that can be difficult to find grass to eat food, and feel that the situation really difficult.
Droves of cattle, sheep, and horses are the most exciting grassland us beings. Mercedes-Benz car on the highway, roads on both sides is the endless green pastures. Every far, there will be a group of cattle or Bothriochloa flowers, and sometimes a few hundred head, and sometimes thousands of head. Team-based and tidy, towards a direction of the word began, a leisurely stroll in the grass. The morning, most of them grazing on the road the car indifferent; noon, there are some leisurely sideways would lie down, rest comfortably in the sun.
Morning and went out and saw a lot of cattle and sheep are all moving in one direction. Local friends said, and sometimes flocks of cattle and sheep is not one, but they do not need human care, every day the time will be automatically their friends, in droves to their familiar place to graze and Start the day "self-grazing", the evening will automatically go home. We are very interested in the way careful observation, it really did not see a few people. Large crowd of cattle and sheep scattered on the vast grassland, seen from afar like a large green blanket on the scattered black and white pearls. They had an air of laid-back people envy, and sometimes on the road will be Cuanshang to spend a few head cattle, marched Fangbu Youzaiyouzai way from the car before crossing. That was no one's posture, it is very chic.
Most of what we saw two types of cows, a Holstein hue, the locals said, is called "Holstein" higher than milk, and some fine varieties of milk a day can even be 70-80 kg. The other is the "yellow white flowers", milk production is lower, also the best day of 50-60 kg. So some people on ways to use baking oil "yellow white flowers" dyed "Holstein", dyed a 200.
Ganqing here than in yellow and expensive it is black, and the big cities the choice of boys and girls head flows in the opposite, but much cheaper price, then the big one cow only cost 200 yuan, in the end is the buffalo honest ah.
Relaxed compared to cows, sheep are obviously more timid shy. There we saw a sheep, goat, and looked gentle, people may feel tender affection. Unfortunately, they are more afraid of-sheng, met with people to come, far on the "Baa Baa" cried and ran away.
In the evening, the sun in the vast grasslands to the edge of the earth and sky painted a magnificent orange-red in the sunset twilight of the illuminated, groups of cattle and sheep lined up neatly after they are no longer grazing, in the wordless in order to winding in different directions with the beauty of the morning away. Glorious sunset to play in their body, feeling really very beautiful. Apparently, they go home, but how did they know the home? Strange.
Us and the cattle side by side rows, gradually dispersed cattle, ox has gradually become 3322 to go hand in hand. Later, after another neighborhood, I saw a cow calmly pushed a people's Chapman, Enron owned "home."
Prairie road, "peacock"
Hulunbeier an area of 253,000 square kilometers, larger than the one in Guangdong Province. In the vast expanse of grasslands, it is difficult to see a few more cars, a few rooms, a few people, only a myriad of workaday grass, cattle, sheep. Drivers, the road will be opened very fast car, followed by stirring up the dust a long film-screen, then a lot of flavor. Road on both sides of the grasslands can often see some paths, the driver will sometimes turn into the car to go, and sometimes even open on the grass. Ah, the original trail on the prairie is so open out. "There are no road, people walk more, but also became the way."
Along the way I did not see the number of traffic police, but added has been continuously an oncoming vehicle "three high" car intimidated. Those who are placed in the car just like they should in a large haystack, is used by herdsmen to prepare for the winter forage. Forage under the weight of Yanyanshishi, cargo traffic by city standards, is a serious "super, super-long, extra-wide." Haystack sometimes sit above the human that looks and feels like an ant sitting on the big box. Over the front of the car, haystack out a large portion of both sides of the cross, I thought it was facing the wrong direction, and later discovered that the car has grown a large portion of the back. There companion to a car of this dress is called Kai-ping peacocks, would be delighted appropriate image.
Golden Horde Golden Horde is the only nomadic tribes Hulunbeier now tourist attractions. Prairie plants are already very small door of the yurt by herdsmen, and gold account Khan's yurt is also a concrete puzzle, and also arranged for a variety of traditional Mongolian wrestling, horse racing and other performances, we must charge the full travel of. Therefore, we have little interest, but they are riding a horse. As to the grassland must be riding on the steppes of Inner Mongolia in real ride some. Although never really had a horse I ride, for this half-hour horseback experience of paying a wear three fingers, dismount, when a leg is almost paralyzed price.
To the Golden Horde to the day Jiaoyangsihuo, the sun so that the small slope obo takes on a somewhat shiny. Riding a horse I went to turn obo. Obo In fact, a very crude stone heap, and the young men and women there is not commensurate with the romance of dating. However, I prefer to believe that people to pray as a place where man-made mound. Left three times, right three times, silently counting the walk and, in fact, I did not promise any specific wishes, just to make this a purely circular motion, the experience of a pure and simple soul pray ceremony.
Wine mellow love is as high as
Prairie Wine - "refreshing"
Southerners go to Inner Mongolia, are most afraid of is the "wine off." Before starting ask a lot of people declined to toast the method, generally there is no clever, nothing more than a "uniform" and the word, for example, bring a medical certificate gastric perforation and so on. In short either adhere to drinking any alcohol, or drink as long as the first port, you can not drink down. The best drunk, the master will be particularly pleased that you have enough gratification enough friends. I was told that a "trick": a start to behave generous desperately to drink, and then vomit like to make a moral one, will drink from the mouth spray to Saxiang 4. The drastic move, the owner in order to maintain the situation, certainly not let you drink, and see you so readily to the body to make sacrifices, be sure to you a new light, as a friend.
By Hulunbeier found that "wine off" sad indeed. Local everybody is a hero, including the seemingly delicate Leiruo the Girls Hero. Friends of the locals to wine theory, "prefer to leave a stomach hole, to prevent heart left a seam."
I think that this time even if a medical certificate to say, the effort is also hard to spray hops, the most critical is the atmosphere is pressing. One into the grassland, the table is the hand on the shining white meat, bowl of tea, grasslands nostrils the breath from. When dressed in robes of Mongolia pull hoarse Matouqin elderly, dressed girl singing Zhu Jiuge a toast to us, the warm and cozy atmosphere has the people can be caught, it had had to "filled", and even have to pretend to be sober intoxicated, will not have to pretend to drink will drink.
Mongolian toast etiquette, use the ring finger pick wine three times, said the Respect, Respect, the Respect parents, before they can drink. The reason to use ring finger, reportedly because the thumb, index finger and middle finger are used archery bow. Before starting to hear that some people drink less as much as possible, all five fingers stuck it into a bowl, three "pick" in the next half of the wine, poured out. But I did not dare to do so, although the Mongols is a bold and nation, not very particular about the kind of enthusiasm in the face of it I beg your pardon does not respect other people's etiquette.
Fortunately, this group of local friends told us southerners more care, introduced a "refreshing wine" to us. It is used in Daxing'anling, "northern red beans," Vaccinium uliginosum as raw materials and the production of wine, taste sweet and delicious, drink and fruit juice is almost up. I really like, so most of the time Take it to cope with frequent toast. I see a girl's sake, Hulunbeier's friends also open eyes eyes closed eyes with me before. Can not think of this as the wine juice is hidden subtleties, and after a few glasses I began to blush. It also is not until you leave the steppe, I only tasted the bitterness of it is very powerful.
Off "Wine customs," a walk in the grasslands drunk the day for us Hulunbeier friends farewell, I thought that after several days of exercise capacity for liquor already have stay on top, but we must on the plane, and drink a big deal on the plane rest, do not worry because it can not be drunk tour grassland scenery, just like their predecessors had in the past.
So some of the little opening, in fact, only drink a small glass of white wine, the rest of the time is still "refreshing" instead of just drink a little more just. Has also feel just fine, blush, and I think this is a normal response. The master spirits high, impromptu and write poetry. Not to be outdone I went from knowing of a making an unworthy sequel to, and the last one or what, "Love is as high as mellow wine." Who knows? Perhaps the time has begun to play a role in alcohol.
To the Hailar Airport, Terminal head when I suddenly feel dizzy, so rack sunglasses, eyes closed, sit-ins. Companions, the owner shook hands in farewell and goodbye, someone called me, I staggered walked over, and I do not have to see unclear who shook hands, they ran straight down the shoulders of the companion. To hear everyone scrambled, there is called escorted me, have asked me to take luggage, there are called to find the wind oil. Then it is time for immigration clearance, I have thus been adopted by frame in the shoulders of fellow security checks. In fact, my head is clear, but "involuntarily."
Jiujin come and go, and have a security door in the hall waiting for planes to sit down, I have also "put pieces together body and soul" of. Companion that around here, people are accustomed to seeing such things, so I just secretly laugh at the border inspectors and did not make things difficult. In any case, I was such a time this way on the plane, did had a "wine off", how can say this is a special thing. I do not know how I always do not feel embarrassed, it was said that in the grasslands drunk not embarrassed. Far more than it? I am a sacrifice, so that grassland friend instead of "mind left a seam," Mody bad? Furthermore, how can we not come to steppe drunk one? Although the only "refreshing", that is the steppe of wine ah.
Really is easy to drink liquor, I still miss.
Farewell, and grassland. You let me get drunk, and so farewell ceremony, may not rude, right?
Plane took off, and the window is a black night sky. In my heart gently puts on a sweet-sounding "Hulunbeier Wine Song":
Raised the wine of joy,
Opening an emotional singing voice,
Cup filled with deep love,
US drunk mind.
Drink Hulunbeier wine,
Grasslands affectionate heart to stay,
Drink Hulunbeier wine,
Our friendship be everlasting and unchanging.
Travel Tip:
1. Hulunbeier is one of six major scenic spots, but also in the ecological level, Inner Mongolia, the richest place. Hulunbeier grassland to Daxing'anling represented by forests, in order to Hulun represented by numerous lakes, Xianbei "Ga Cave", Dalai Nur human skull tie, black hills, and many other ancient sites of cultural relics, as well as Russia, Mongolia, bordering facilities caused by a unique exotic border constitutes a three-dimensional rich tourist resources.
2. Hulunbeier the best tourist season is from May to August, average temperature in August at 13-28 degrees. Entered in September, the weather cools significantly. Year, 5 months of snow-covered, the minimum temperature of minus 40 degrees. But the ice tour Hulunbeier conduct on fire, and here is located in the northeast, ice sculptures, skiing and complete the project.
3. Hailar latitude even higher than those in Harbin from Beijing, the train is subject to three capital cities in the Northeast to get to for a period of about 30 hours. Flights between Beijing and Hailar weekly, three, four, five, days open, sailing time is about 2 hours.
Author: fannylian
