"According to my thinking, people can understand. According to my inquiry, which could meet some people."
This is Shen's epitaph, though has yet to understand the meaning of this sentence, but that does not prevent me in a dream between the mountains and rivers back to Phoenix.
Day 1
Bound by the Shenzhen Western Huaihua the K504, the people are still in Guangdong, the heart was early in the Phoenix and flew to the western Hunan.
The old name for the town of Phoenix pole, located at the junction of western Hunan and Guizhou. The first time I heard the town when the pole was reading books and reading Ming-Hao Tang of "Biography of Tseng Kuo-fan." In fact, the pole is not so much the town of cities, as it is seat of military stronghold here in ancient times the two Han Miao ethnic ghettos cut-off point for the anti-China uprising in Miao, I do not know where North Korea which on behalf of, the
The "court" Start stationed themselves there, and built the town in accordance with pole Tuo River Town, built high walls and a watchtower, soldiers stationed here, exceptionally sturdy, the history of the town of Chiang has been the rate of 800 soldiers pole Taiping defeat in Xiangtan.
I do not know Since when has the town changed its name to Phoenix pole, Han Miao two days of ethnic disputes that have long been history, stationed themselves has become a memory, but the green of the Tuo River is still flowing, walls and watchtower in accordance with in, the river Diaojiaolou according to the, Tracy up folk songs to drift according to the ... ...
Driving through Shaoguan, and started off Dayaoshan of tunnels, the tunnel one by one, the longest walk away for almost ten minutes. In a tunnel, the darkness outside the window, cell phone no signal, surrounded by unfamiliar faces, really isolated the.
Hunan mountain side.
Boundary in Hunan down when the sky is already dark, the temperature much cooler than in Guangdong, perhaps the high Dayaoshan the spring to stay in Hunan bar.
From Chenzhou, Hengyang this way in the past has been to Changsha, the two stations, but one or two hours by car, train travel has naturally become the people's choice, and my neighbor also started a change at every station. And different strangers chatting, listening to them speak different dialects, which is a fun, but also a kind of fate, in one or two hours later,
We may never meet again possible.
Car to Zhuzhou, day of rain, do not they also intermittent until Changsha, ask the person on the train from Changsha: "Outside the rain was heavy it?" "Big, to hold up an umbrella it!"
Lower the temperature inside the compartment, and can feel the coolness Cecil, but even cooler is in their hearts.
Lying on the table, head with his arm in a collision sound of wheels and tracks, the daze of sleep in the past ... ...
Day 2
(A)
Or is it not used to the table when the bed pillow arm to do, or too excited or worried about the rain outside the window, in short, in a complex state of mind in the wake.
Outside the window is still black one, do not know is still under the rain.
Vehicle long past the Zhangjiajie, carriage is also empty lot, scattered with small number of people.
Across the aisle sat a man and a woman, like me, but also backpacks, wearing jeans, sneakers, The difference is that each of his arms holding a big drawing board.
"You are going Jishou it?"
"Yes ah, we went to Shun. You?"
"I went to Phoenix."
Jishou Yongshun in the north, "Border Town" in the story took place in there, but Phoenix Jishou south, is the hometown of Shen Cong-wen. Wanted to invite their peers, it seems is not intended.
Gradually the sky light up.
The rain stopped, and my heart is also warm a lot.
Train suspension springs in a small station called Hunan.
Out of the window not far from the railway where there is a small courtyard, is the kind of a typical farm small courtyard. Brick tile-roofed house surrounded by anti-gentleman of the brick walls not people, the wall 32 peach trees, garden trees and splendid bloom. There is no wind, the smoke rising slowly host family told me that breakfast is being prepared. See the smoke, I suddenly felt all this was so lively.
If the smoke on behalf of angry words, it would only see my vehicle exhaust is always dead in Guangzhou.
In the rest of Xiangquan enough, the train move ahead, and 7 o'clock, when, and who wish to reach Jishou. Jishou is the capital of western Hunan Miao and Tujia Autonomous Prefecture, but also a very clean city.
Out of Jishou railway station, on the bus to Phoenix.
Day 2
(B)
From Jishou off to Phoenix to be an hour's drive. Car along a mountain stream against the epidemic, because it is early spring, water, not many, many parts of exposed river stones, is that great, at the bottom of the deep soil buried in the stones. Want to come here in summer water potential large, they would not only have the foundation stones of these can be based on it?
Amazed at the scenery outside the window, mountain, water, trees, there are patches of rape is harmonious, but also volatile, and still feeling just scenery, cars a turn, Xiuse also rushing toward us.
Here today, gone with the car who asked what the time has come to Phoenix.
Car started downhill with the car told me down the slope went to Phoenix in this.
Looking down from the Peak, Tuo River, from west eastward to the river's south bank, along the mountain, patchwork of overlapping the tile-roofed house. The river, there is always half of the house, hanging in the air, the following bamboo shore, which is under the Diaojiaolou Shen pen.
Out of the car, to the plum I called to tell her I arrived.
Plum is a B & B owner.
Before their departure, at the mill on the lost of posts about people together to Phoenix, and stay on the phone. Later, I received a text message from strangers, self-called plum said, the family opened the B & B, if I so wish, to the Phoenix can live her family.
Plum and his husband to the station to meet me. Plum and her husband are the County Theater actors, parents are the county's retired cadres. Plum's home by the two ethnic groups, and Plum's father was a Hmong mother was Tujia, Miao, plums, and his brother as is, while the plum's husband and sister both are just Tujia. What a big family of ethnic harmony, living in her home, I would rather become a minority, in fact, in Phoenix this land, I will always be minorities.
Plum's home built in approaching the summit where a three-storey building of the small independent hospital. Standing on the third floor, overlooking the ancient city exactly. Plum told me that the building is Huang Yongyu hill opposite the Villa, he will return to Phoenix a year to live on for some time. Speaking of Huang Yongyu, remembered his "March Phoenix", I think of Guangzhou Road to "Yi Goods Hall" three characters.
Sitting on the third floor balcony, the distance is wrapped in a thin morning mist in the South Mountain, at the foot of a brick layer upon layer upon layer of tile-roofed house, ears roundabout is Tuojiang side laundry beating Miao women's clothes with the wooden club, " bonbon "sound, looming bursts of folk songs, feeling really have to" float up the. "
(C)
Phoenix Street did not last long, only about 500 meters or so, nor wide, large enough only 56 personal lines side by side, the street is a green stone of the paved one. Ming and Qing Dynasties are the ancient buildings on both sides of the street, the street side, or used as stores, or used for hotel, hotels, without exception, was hoisted in front of a plaque, a letter to "xx Inn" and other places, presumably rare, but is pretty end in harmony.
Few people, the streets flowing with a kind of quiet, as quiet as the water flowing Tuo.
Phoenix street shops selling mostly to local specialty stores just sits there quietly and does not deliberately attract customers, even if the guests asking about the price, but also a friendly whispered response, for fear of undermining the quiet-like.
Phoenix specialty are batik, Jiang Tang also silver. Along the streets of almost every store is selling these things.
Q. What is plum with a friend to do a gift. Plum thought: "a little small silver bar! Silver will be oxidized, will change color yellow, but the old is an eternity under the color of the heart!" It's saying, I am scared for days language!
Phoenix is the largest batik, batik shop selling a next one. A little turban from childhood, to a foot square in a pocket, or even sets of clothes, white flowers are blue. Indigo Blue is a unique Miao, Miao white flowers are unique decoration to symbolize good fortune. Plum said: "Each batik products are isolated." Though not understood the meaning of one, out of the Blue's share of love, is still a lot of the election.
Street at the end of the road Sutherland narrowed, large enough only two sidle off, the former line of dozens of meters, but suddenly see the light, the original unconsciously I have out of the scope of the ancient city.
Road built along the Tuo River, Tuo River into the Yuanjiang, over Lake Dongting, Meeting the Yangtze River, I do not know whether it down that path can also go to got the Yangtze River? If feasible, I do not know Shen Cong-wen has passed this year is Tao?
Tuojiang water quietly flowing slowly in the foot. Water is not deep, but it resonates with a green Wang, must have the new green grass and mountains and water pollution in this bar. No wind, the water calm as a mirror, Jiang across the mountains, Forest River built Diaojiaolou, as well as Keke willow, are all clear and accurate reflection of them.
Ship, parked in front with a boat, is a fine ship. Long and narrow hull, bow proud of the high tilt, I wonder if that time in bixi group of people crossing on the ferry across the river to whether this is really a boat.
Not see the owner trace, cable was tied lightly Bangbian the willows, the boat placed sidelong pole, the one ship, a willow, a pole, and the water reflection, really is "Nowata no boat from horizontal."
Tuojiang out of one kilometer along the Old City, and then Shui right up the hill is the tomb of Shen Cong-wen.
Fenzhong can not see can not see any tombstone, only a stone, which is the tomb of Shen Cong-wen really did not expect that Shen's behind the land is so simple. Phoenix outstanding of colorful stones are stones, but also maintained mined look, there is no trace of artificial carving. Catch a glimpse of the four lines of engraved stone words - "do as I thought, people can understand. According to my inquiry, which could meet some people." Do not understand the meaning of this sentence do not understand why the tomb of Shen Cong-wen's so simple.
While the hearts of many do not understand, still presented a chrysanthemum, to express my respect.
"A soldier, or else die trying, that is, to return home."
Down time, walk up the hill opposite the one with the Tao, to see a monument to see this sentence. Chew this statement in mind, do not understand the second seems to have the answer. Among the buried in his homeland behind for the early years, risen from the ranks of the Shen Cong-wen is concerned, is really a "return to their homeland." Perhaps Shen Congwen view, select the "Back Home", select your roots is to choose the landscape and home integration, home of the mountain is quiet and simple, and behind the land has also claim the right to quiet and simple.
Thought of here, looked back and saw multicolored stones nestled in the shadow between the trees, if not beforehand, but also had no idea that was behind a monk of the land?
Come back to the ancient city along the road that go far away to see the Hongqiao.
Hongqiao is a bridge opening of the bridges are three-hole. Hongqiao built when, why, rainbow in the name of, I do not know, did not want to inquire more willing to speculate according to its own understanding of why, under the name Rainbow: Hongqiao bridge opening of the three holes are nearly perfect semicircle, as 3 rainbow across the Tuo River.
Phoenix Hongqiao town remains a major crossing tool, only difference is that the bridge built a triple eaves of houses, buildings, the middle pedestrians, both sides were separated into many small rooms, multi-selling local specialties, there are one or two are sold Shen Cong-wen works, and outside the same price, although already there, "Border Town", but still can not help but buy one.
The bridge there is a teahouse, there is miaojia folk songs add to the fun, hear a Hmong girl singing, the shock of Teana, I see this kind of thing sounds so Tracy float of the bar.
Author: colinyun
