Filed Lugu Lake, people will automatically think of "mysterious", "primitive" and other words. In recent years a number of media enjoy rendering, the Lugu Lake, the words no longer a person familiar with the mainland, "the last matriarchal": "walking marriage tribe" of these two terms have become synonymous with the lake.
Spring Festival this year, I and a group of Hangzhou, travelers club, self-help travel enthusiasts came to Yunnan. With a bewildering for those yearning for the original Pure Land, by a miraculous feeling has always been encouraging with no grievances without any regrets, all the attractions of Yunnan into the back seat, enjoying nearly 13 hours gut "Snow" Road thrill ride, with Dreams Omen went straight to the imagination of the altitude of 3,000 meters of altitude the mother lake.
When close to this piece of legend in the ideal world, when, that is, all the way from the hilltop overlooking the lake, spiral-down period of time, we started a little bit confused, and scenery in general! At this time the mood can only use these words to describe it. Today's weather is not good, just did some snow, some dark sky. Reflected upside the lake, natural lake Tianyi is not the legendary beauty of color, and even less than the clear Erhai Emptiness.
Car to the famous Moso people fell into the water village, get off later, we looked for a local small-customer characteristics Muleng Fang Zhan settle down, three-story buildings, three to four room, only one public toilet in the downstairs large House of a corner, I do not know whether the beds clean, anyway, we have brought sleeping bags, will trouble points.
Lunch to eat in their kitchen burning, and boss on the pot is called "Su-Li Ma," the Mosuo wine, heard that it is brewed with barley and sorghum, flavor is good, a bit like we are in Zhejiang Tian Jiuniang, but the taste is more to mellow some. Most go with rice is a local one, "Zhu Biaorou" tastes a bit like ham, but heard that it can be placed for 10 years without rot, but also put the longer, more mellow flavor. There is good wine good food, along with everyone a little bit hungry, so this past few days, we ate lunch Dao Shi the most delicious meal of.
Afternoon, we walk together along the lake, standing on shore, watching the rippling rows of Zhu Caochuan in the bays where there are several floating on a lake island, repent and the shore blocks of an ancient and elegant Muleng Fang, suddenly felt deep down by an unknown land surrounded by emotion, was not familiar with their own atmosphere of a troubled, just a kind of exotic atmosphere do? I can not Compose out of that feeling.
Looked for a Zhucao Chuan, two dressed in national costumes to Mosuo guy paddled oar, crossing the lake we went to the music of water island, it is a pity that there is an island of the lake, which is known as "the last toast Manor "As these two days can not go to the repair. Mosuo heard the most bizarre is that their unique form of marriage, is "walking marriage", men and women between the couple, the woman called the man, "Abdul," said the woman, man, "Assia." They are not married men and women do not marry, each living in their own mother's home, the man the night before only to a woman's home overnight and early morning leaving the mother to return home to participate in productive life. We are most interested in this course, is the legendary marriage customs of the Mosuo people go. So he rushes to ask this is called "Japanese and Chinese," the boatman. Such as "do you go before marriage?" "You have the number of Assia" sort of boring topics, and good, "Japanese and Chinese as" very warm and frank and we answered the question 11. He said that they did not like the legend of the wild walking marriage, although there is no law or moral constraints of their marriage to go with, but their great respect for the feelings of a young man may have many Assia, but once the senior of age or have a children, they take the marriage relatively fixed object, but still life will live in their own mother.
Le water on the island there is only one of the Tibetan lama temples, Mosuo to accept far-reaching effects of Tibetan culture, and their children go to school also used in Tibetan and Chinese language in both languages. North-west of the island in the Mao Xiuzhu a between a pile of rocks, as if Mani Dui, but not seen streamer with only a few rags of, in the branches flowing, exotic colors dignified moment together.
Return trip, the "Japanese-Chinese" in response to our request a week and a half hours around the island. (We are the original 30 yuan per person based on the total rate of 50 dollars tip, and then the simplicity of the nation will undergo post-market-oriented development.)
"Japanese and Chinese," in our strong invitation to teach us began to sing the Mosuo folk songs, to the effect that "beautiful Lugu Lake ah, ushered in the dawn; towering Sierra Leone ah, stitch around the clouds; a loving mother, stood in the doorway why she so happy Yeah, hey!!! because the daughter had grown up "and songs dragged on very long tail, drawing the other ferry passengers Mosuo A Zhu is also opening up the throat singing. So are the echoes far and near the lake, the lake's cool levels, together with the mountains and valleys are loaded into the song, people find it a pleasure indulged.
In fact, this is also seen that the first folk Mosuo people's idea of matriarchal society. Since families in the form of Moso, the mother's blood to maintain the lifeblood of the family, but also the supremacy of the status, so in the Mosuo people's eyes, gave birth to a daughter, is a very glorious one, because it means her daughter can be will continue the family blood. A man, he and Assia gave birth to a child does not belong to him, he does not make the obligation to support dependents do not enjoy the right to old age. Mosuo people's children are owned by the woman's family, upbringing, and adult, but also of maintenance mother, uncle or aunt family. So, if you walked into Mosuo people at home, to see men and women of the house, they thought they were husband and wife, then you are wrong. Because in their families, all members are born with the mother, they are brothers and sisters.
At night, we click "Japanese and Chinese," introduction, Tashi came home to participate in the courtyard bonfire party, (did not expect to participate in such private party is to be received tickets, 10 yuan per person) in a 20 square meters or so homes a neighborhood , surrounded by the audience and surrounded on nearly three or four hundred people, the venue is a small group with a group of Mosuo girls holiday best tread rhythmic dance steps, side with the cheerful singing duet, "mada microphone Ahamada咪... ..." , while singing and playing are people dancing, but you Mosuo people in the group have been unable to find their faces to express feelings with duet and simplicity of the original. But there is also a tube wherever he goes, people who deliberately alienate the sake of shoving and jumping into the audience. How such a scenario is smaller than our last night together on the way and indulge in a bustling Yi married a bonfire. Less than half an hour, we can get away with just Antan why the impact of commercialization will pollute the ground so fast, though the lake's natural environment has not been destroyed, can be Mosuo people's culture (at least one chapter) have been contaminated.
Came out, we also visited a few households Mosuo people, for this mysterious form of national thinking, you can not look at a few adventures, articles can be perceived. When you enter these with the mother as the core of the courtyard house, a loving grandmother will you Mosuo diverted to the warm fireplace next to a pot of butter tea on a steep, with warm Oi mamma a thick folder of the dialect of the language Moso answer all your ignorance problem.
In the Mosuo people's eyes, everything is alive. The survival of their own this piece of territory are much more devout. They worship fire. Therefore, every household in front of fireplace for a Vulcan tablets, with its fine food festival. They worship in front of the Lion Rock (Gorm mountain), that it is the incarnation of the goddess Gorm, the annual July 25 is a grand festival of the goddess worship.
The next morning, accompanied by intoxicating glow of the lake shore, we are holding indescribable state of mind to leave the complexity of this piece of mysterious land. As a visitor, we feel that we have always only an outsider can not be relaxed and happy to enjoy its weird mysterious ethnic cultures. It is the mystery of love and marriage with the Holy Spirit told us that a culture of life is very far from the familiar culture. In particular, its form of marriage, there is a saying that: This form of itself is consistent with human vitality, which even the future of marriage and family, inspiration and the primary mode of development. This argument, at least in our group have been irresolute Fei on various pretexts in the siege outside the self-styled "singles," where the alien is highly endorsed.