August 27 Friday overcast, light rain sunny
An early awake, some excitement, some tension is necessary to achieve the dream of so many years, and my heart is really not a good feeling. Days, micro-light, the airport is the peak and visitors crowd. Qu Wang Lhasa three flights a smooth take-off within half an hour, A340 has been sitting full to the brim, I ask myself over and over again, I would really go to Tibet to it? 8:50 arrive Kunga airport. Kunga airport is the design of our veterans, because of traditional Tibetan architecture will be integrated into the vocabulary of modern design and have been winning. However, I am from the airport side, it appears that more general, perhaps because of dust covered the bar of its essence.
Today is cloudy, but the roadside scenery has been Jiaoren enrapture. Slowly flowing Brahmaputra, the distant snow-capped mountains, an oasis of water, has shown a golden poplar leaves from time to time to see sheep and cattle do ... ... This is the Tibet? An hour later to Lhasa, we stay there in the autonomous region hostel. Walk from the main entrance guest houses, about 15 minutes away, Wolia is asthma Shi Shi, whole body weakness, mountain sickness began. Think of someone else's advice - less talk, less exercise, more rest paused for finishing, the inverted-bed will be sleeping. After waking up, feel better.
After lunch, the sun, transparent air, Ming Can-sun, blue sky was so lovely, this is my dream of Tibet! Lifting his original dream in front of difficult language to describe this feeling. We can not sleep in the room, and decided to stroll the streets.
Road is not wide, and both sides of the mostly two three-story house, a shop next to one. Car few people a lot. Camera carrying tourists, strode the foreigners, begging children, Lian hawkers selling items. Turned a bend, The Potala Palace has been startled eyes, did not think even in the city center! If Beijing East Road, not to the Potala Palace Square and the separation of the Potala Palace will be more shocking. We are slowly up the stairs, but I do not know the Potala Palace at noon and closed. Helplessness go on Barkhor. Chat with the taxi drivers, consulting chartered to Zetang, he expressed interest, leaving the pager number.
Bajiao Street stalls are filled, but not Chengdu, the market was so noisy. Bajiao Street for beginners to those who dazzled, but we did not buy anything, just look around. Jokhang Temple is in front of countless men and women believers in the knock heads and other body length. Their hands with a pair of protective gear, it is boldly going to rush forward in a smooth, issued on the stone floor sonorous voice, mouth mutter prayers.
We are from the side door into the Jokhang Temple, the monks at the first hint we Jinding. Just on the roof, all of a sudden lightning rained without warning, only to escape under the arbor. At this time beside a group of young monks are gathered around a man wearing a black leather jacket, often billed as a look at turned out to be Simon. If it is not personally see it, I can not believe lamas also an avid groupies, chasing Simon Yam photograph, signature, Simon Yam very satisfied with the appearance, did not think about themselves in the snow-covered plateau, there are so many admirers.
Once the storm, the sun shines, he wanders the dark blue sky, golden dome has become more magnificent in the sun. Looking to the Potala Palace, somehow reminded of Bacon's "Urban Design" in the discussion on urban nodes, feeling a few cities, echoing the relationship between nodes is very interesting, his discussion seems to have a deeper understanding.
Under the golden dome, and we really started to enter the center of the Jokhang Temple courtyard. Courtyard surrounded by a long corridor, there are colors of believers, monks pay homage. Jokhang Temple is only one of the main hall, but the square around a large hall surrounded by many small rooms, each for eight or nine, "a" of the Buddha, Manjusri, Kuan Yin, Maitreya, King Kong and other law-enforcement. Basilica of Princess Wen Cheng Zhu Gong has brought 12-year-old life-sized golden Buddha statues sitting Takaashi a meter eighty. Gold like the wooden pillars of the former is said to more than 1,200 years of history, is the original year to construct a temple. Christians have always used the forehead tap poles, in order to obtain the Buddha's blessing, poles are rugged. The mural is about four weeks to construct a temple over the year, as well as the origin of Lhasa. Can be said that the completion of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa is due to expand gradually formed. For many Tibetans, the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa only means real. We visited the finished, it ranks as the turn around the Buddhist temple by turn full circle. This turn out by the Road, Central, Hundreds of refined copper by turning the cylinder, it is the right hand turn through the cylinder, the left hand counting beads, along the lines clockwise direction Rao. Necessarily have to be in a clockwise direction, otherwise there is no merit, and only sin.
Hall to get out, see people who are still in situ at noon kowtow, doing the same gesture - such as length first, they do not seem to hurry into the temple, there is time, then really want to count them. Unfortunately, some faint the first time for pain, fearing violent reaction tomorrow, we hurry back to hostel.
Tomorrow, go to the Potala Palace.
August 28 Saturday Qing
The Potala Palace is almost a symbol of snow-covered plateau, which is so great to look up and see them; its story is so much, we are again a few times can not be all about.
From the outside, it is easy to separate the White House and the Red Palace, the White House in the next, the Red Palace in the last. The White House is the Dalai Lama's office location, the Red Palace is the chambers. We are from the main entrance into the Potala Palace, the Dalai Lama in exile since then, the White House was almost abandoned, basically an open room. Been through a dark corridor, on a platform, one enters the Red Palace. We are on the outside can see there are numerous Jinding Red Palace, in fact each one corresponds to a Jinding Dalai Lama. The Lama said, according to the Red Palace, in addition to VI, the Dalai Lama, whose whereabouts are unknown, the ancient monks were buried their dead. I have heard in another way, VI, Dalai Lama Xingqingzhongren, eager to live freely, and often die very young, it is not recorded in official history. The pagoda of the consumption of gold is the largest pagoda of the fifth Dalai Lama, some more than 3700 kilograms, it is because the Dalai Lama V, the greatest achievement is that he realized the theocratic rule. 13 Dalai Lama pagoda is the most valuable, and we follow a group of students in Beijing, they asked the Tibetan guides, opening 13 into the non-Dalai Lama Lama. The pagoda was built in 1936, that is, three years after the Dalai Lama passed away. With more than 400 kilograms of pure gold, precious stones on the 10000, is the second largest Pagoda in the palace. Lama at a very low church, take the next ladder leads to the several layers, and very gloomy. According to tour guides, then the rest of the pagoda are "not big", also more than 100 kilograms of gold! Golden Summit is the next Dalai Lama Temple lifetime use, respectively, for the throne of their time and cassock, and read the scriptures.
The top there is a palace of the most important Temple, not great, but is said to be built Songtsan is the Potala Palace, the first. Temple calendar for the Dalai Lama Tsongkhapa and footprints, there is a very small, like HANGTEN small footprints. Zhugong the middle of a standing Buddha, tour guides say that Phoebe took shape naturally, did not add engraving. This world a total of four, and the other three in India and Nepal. I dare not say no letter, but feel amazing!
Is Fu Xiang, the ear Huwen of singing, accompanied by the rhythm of percussion, was originally a number of Tibetan women in the repair of the roof. Tool is a rod, following a pie material. They used a tool for rammed earth, stepping on the same steps, in the context of labor songs. We seem to be the first time I saw such a natural feeling reveal deeply by this work to bring the joy of the infection.
Yesterday at noon and left the driver of a pager link, he called Nyima Tsering, Santana to open a white taxi, to be fluent in Mandarin. After some discussions, we have worked out tomorrow to Zetang Xigaze route, timing, and basic by 400 yuan / day calculation, if the road well together that we have to eat regardless of domestic control.
The afternoon Drepung Monastery. Drepung Monastery is located in the western suburbs of Lhasa, more-pei Wu Zi mountain south slope, is the Gelug Sect monasteries in Lhasa, one of the three. Far will be able to see the bare hillside on a group of large-scale buildings, built on mountains, like a small castle. Jin sihou ubiquitous chip stone walls, bluestone road, yellow walls, powder wall and winding alleys, Yau deep, small courtyard, full of surprises for a visit. Drepung Monastery was built in 1416, was built by a disciple of Tsongkhapa, Tsongkhapa himself presided over the opening ceremony of light. First half of the 17th century, the expansion of the Dalai Lama V, Drepung Monastery, Drepung Monastery and the Dalai Lama, therefore has a very close relationship with the Dalai Lama are the Drepung Monastery as his mother. Drepung Monastery has a chin measures (main hall), four Zhacang (monastery) and 50 Kang villages (shag).
Chin's Basilica dedicated to the main hall measures Jampa Buddha, that the future Buddha. Bring up the rear is a devastated, bluestone black windows, the profound sense of history, if Xiaoxue here, I do not know what should leave behind a few artistic photos.
There are many young monks in this self-cultivation, worth a visit is the afternoon after debate. Debate is that red walls surrounded by a circular places, there are towering old trees, lower berth white pebbles, the environment quiet. Lamas to clap the way the debate, when one felt that their views more persuasive when the first statement of its own high-five again. "Pops" the voice of one after another, the sound crisp, I do not know whether they feel pain. I have seen some ecstatic, this ancient methods are a kind of enlightenment of people power.
From the Drepung out, we transfer to the Sera Monastery. Sera Monastery is located in northern suburbs of Lhasa salad Wu Zi Mountain, which integrate with the village, but also in Lhasa, one of the three major Yellow Sect monasteries. One measures chin (main hall), three Zhacang (monastery) and 32 Kang villages (shag). Regrettably, however, when we reached the Sera Monastery is 16:30, all Dianmen is closed, as the same as the Potala Palace, "work of"! We turn full circle around the temple to see for the sun to meet the Sour Milk Drinking Festival and the new Buddha Taiwan, it points to close among the clouds, cloud-shape has a strong religious imagery. Unfortunately, failed to catch up with the festival.
Once again, we hear the morning song heard in the Potala Palace, but even greater momentum. Mother away, a group of people to repair the roof. The approximately 20 people, men and women, holding the same tools, tread the same steps, singing in tune with each other. Under the blue sky white clouds, so pleasant chorus, make us forget the fatigue, forget the earth.
Way back to Lhasa five minibuses, the conductor asked whether we have the evening party tickets. Andy Lau was originally to perform small group children to spend 300 yuan to buy a worst of the votes, the most expensive to be 600. When he heard that we in the Jokhang Temple and the Simon one parent's house, he would even say that we are so lucky, and he is so unfortunate. The Potala Palace Square, famous high quality products exhibition is being held, we have found one of the stalls selling bone necklace, crazy and bought a string of dozens of bone necklace, ten-dollar string of more than five years ago doubled. Square, there are many selling Tibetan medicine, and a pity that we know very little.
August 29 Sun Qing Zhuanyin
7:30 to leave the hostel, Nima master has been waiting for us in the gate. He has brought his cousin plays Dan, also a taxi driver, by the way together to worship. We once again along the Lhasa River, Brahmaputra fled eastward, all the way missed.
Car when crossing the Sangye less than ten o'clock, just in time for the ferry. With our "same boat" is a group of Tibetans from Yushu in Qinghai Province, they pack a minibus pilgrimage to Tibet. Highways point of view, the Brahmaputra is very wide, but it does not seem to deep, and so we really get to the River Center, only to find calm rivers hidden vortex. Master Nyima catch a glimpse of the house pointing to the opposite, saying that Samye Monastery, does not seem too far, it in fact it took more than an hour before arrival of the other side against the current, said this is the very fast speed, luck is not Good time to spend two hours. To the other side, and then replaced with Dongfeng truck, truck with little or no flood roads and hills in the bumpy, 25 minutes after the temple.
Samye Monastery was built in the mid-eighth century AD, which means "unexpected Temple", is the oldest in Tibet, "the Buddha, Dhamma and Sangha," Sambo complete formal temple. The layout of the building in accordance with the Buddhist "mandala" and designed a circular hall tower wall where the proliferation of its main hall square plane, reportedly based on the Han, Tibet, India and the integration of three different architectural styles, a layer of Tibetan, two-story Han-style, three Indian-style. But I am not so clear to distinguish the difference between these types of style and appear to have been hidden since. Sharp corners of hall save the big top of the hill slope is slow, modest and there is momentum; the four corners of the kiosk out of a far-reaching eaves, but it is a sub-light. Each layer has a wonderful frescos and statues, especially in the third layer, surprised to find a clay Buddha Huan Xifo seated, very interesting.
Nyima and sub-Dan holds solid butter imports already prepared to give each block Hsien-butter statues, each will worship the Buddha, the Buddha will each donate, or more, one corner. From the hall came out, they worship the clockwise direction a small hall for each, every tower a throne of King Kong. According to Nyima said that Tibetans believe that their death, the soul will be returned to Samye Monastery, so there are a soul temple, which hung a streamer with colored strips of cloth, there is the soul of the function. Another small temple dedicated to the burial stone, a freshman small, are glossy black. Nima tells us that small stones are smashed bones, and large stones is equivalent to chopping board. Tibetans believe that "Falun often turn" (this, and Falun Gong are two different things), the reincarnation of the soul will eventually, so the body which is not saved, in addition to the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama. Since the sheet metal in accordance with Tibetan Buddhism, the very few able to find graves. Sky burial in them, are sacred, committed suicide, was stabbed to death and can not be women in childbirth and so on, these unknown factors, the per capita can not be burial, they can only Shuizang or cremation. While the same tribe is not eligible for burial of their loved ones, can only refer their friends to participate. In fact, the Sera Monastery in Lhasa next to a mountain is a place for burial, but we can not close.
According to Nyima said that in the Samye Monastery there are many hills around the caves, the cultivation is a lama at many monks live in the cave to several months or even years, they rely on the faithful to bring food are maintained. Tibet's history, almost all of the enlightenment and monks have self-cultivation in this retreat.
Then taken the ferry back to the road again Samye, almost unbearable, and wait for them to immediately jumped out of cars go, the fares are Shihai treat us as foreigners, ten yuan / person, and their reason is useless.
Back to the other side is two in the afternoon and continue to drive forward, came to Zetang. Zetang is the Shannan Prefecture is the largest town in this Yalong He imported the Brahmaputra. Shannan Prefecture is considered the birthplace of Tibetans in Tibet's first king, the first palace, the first temples, the first piece of farmland, the first Tibetan ... ... were born in Shannan. We plan to visit two temples: Changzhu Si and Yumbulagang.
Chang Zhusi here was one of the oldest temple, built in AD 641, according to legend is the demon and rejuvenating Songtsan for the town was built, the latter worked Songtsan Shannan, Culture and the Winter Palace into a princess. Temple little circle between the veranda and the main hall there is a small courtyard, looking very dilapidated condition and fewer tourists. Temple of its treasures of the town is a pearl Thangka - Goddess of Mercy into a princess, Culture and resting hand embroidered map of Thangka painting.
Yumbulagang to come from Chang Zhusi walk 20 minutes further south, it is built on the Yalong He east coast of a small hill, far away will be able to see it solemnly stood. Yumbulagang meaning "doe legs after the palace," very strange, is the first palace in Tibetan history. According to legend, benzene believers in the second century BC king of the underworld as the first generation was built into a princess, Culture Songtsan after the Summer Palace in Shannan Prefecture, is now the Gelug Sect monasteries. Hill was not high enough to make us short of breath, standing on the roof overlooking the valley, it is the harvest of wheat, I do not know if there is a piece of farmland is the first lie? As the sky was getting late and we did not notice the temple murals, and later heard about the father said that Tibetans here murals evolved monkey God, inadvertently fit with the theory of evolution, is not it still wise than the Darwin?
Shannan Prefecture Prefectural overnight guest houses, standard room 120 yuan / room, relatively clean, hot water very well.
August 30 Monday Qing
Today from Zetang to Shigatse, about 350 km. Dawn of the Brahmaputra is a different story, suddenly a ray of sunshine, is suddenly the clouds, the clouds changing, so that the distance of Castle Peak dust is a variety of colors, I am here to really understand what is Dai-color.
After a Gonggar Airport, Nima said the master of the song soon after Germany Temple is his most admired temples, want to go Jingfo, although this is unplanned, and we agreed. When asked why he most admired Teh-Temple, Nima said the monks of this monastery the most good, both rich and poor alike, but also to please drink butter tea. Chu Teh-Temple on the road south, turn into about one kilometer, looks better than the Changzhu Si Huan. Because there is no tourism "pollution", feeling very leisurely, not tickets, but also can be anywhere camera. One into the Terakado, master it by pressing a clockwise direction, 11 Baiguo, devotion to knock on the main front of the hall, three heads, it seems he did the best that the Buddha here. The monks lead the way to us, without saying a word, auto zone you into a back room, we saw the statue is another statue of Huanxi Fo. Description of the second floor mural burial process, as well as the people Pigu story. According to the master said, here is the side of the town of Temple treasures were Pigu, it is not easily seen by people. However, we have seen all the other treasures - conch. Lama took us to the kitchen, an old lama from a very old out of the cabinet where Hada wrapped with layers of conch, in my view, this conch is common, and we have seen the only difference is that there are conch similar Tibetan designs. Lama introduced the Road The conch is a Tibetan monastery June 9, 1993 at the second threshold of a long out, according to common sense is almost impossible. But I have already come to believe that, here is the one with the gods of the land. Please pray for them Nyima Lama, a monk holding a conch touch his head, back, shoulders, we can not escape convention, asking the gods willing, today is the birthday of Lu Zhenhua 29-year-old could have such a chance to be destined by . Sure enough, a monk invited us to drink yak butter tea, Nyima that smells bad, there is no feeling.
About ten o'clock we are back on the road. After the bridge over the Qushui scenery beautiful, the Brahmaputra on the other side like a paradise village in general. An hour later the road becomes difficult to go, right there, a team of military vehicles, more than 60 vehicles to 10 km / h speed of the slow adoption, we can only stop at the depot next to a small restaurant for lunch. Owner of less than 30, from Sichuan shehong to Tibet has for seven years, this restaurant's a brick by brick They are hand-built, vegetables by Lhasa to give a lift to bring the car in the winter cold, life is very sad , but the lovers are optimistic and cheerful. They said that in quite good conditions here Kaifan Guan than those in Ali's hometown better. We hear very much emotion, where that is not a life, change me, right?
After a Otake card, a good one more. Line of sight suddenly see the light, the scene was still a big difference, murky and had a look at the morning sky clear up the road seems to lead to the horizon straight. Turned a corner and allowed to gaze longingly nest you see there is a house, after the Tibetan city of Shigatse to. Shigatse is very small, Tashilhunpo three golden dome is the most eye-catching.
Tashilhunpo on the city side, is one of the Yellow Sect of the six temple was built in 1447. And the Sera Monastery is similar, but also a big village. Tashilhunpo is a disciple of Tsongkhapa the eighth, I built the Dalai Lama, to 1600, served as the monastery of the Panchen Lama IV France and Taiwan, since then, bar the Panchen Lama Temple to become the resident. There are four main hall for the 26 meters high Jampa Buddha (future Buddha, the Buddha), the four Panchen Lama, Panchen buried five to the pagoda, the tenth Panchen Lama of Lama . A few years ago after the two were new. IV, the greatest merit for the Panchen Lama, Dalai Lama V, he helped set up a unified political and religious power during the Cultural Revolution, in addition to his previous life outside of the pagoda of the Panchen Lama were destroyed. After the Cultural Revolution, special approval by the State Council, presided over by the Panchen Lama built a 5-9 World of buried tower, while the Panchen Lama since the buried tower over the opening ceremony of light, overwork, suffered a heart attack 52-year-old dies. Department of State was also the special allocation and gold, repair of the tenth Panchen Lama, and even the floor are inlaid with turquoise and other precious stones. Said Panchen Lama passed away, the staff with saffron, sandalwood materials such as 108 kinds of rare drugs and saline bath, scrub, wrap with silk dense smoke out of water, and so forth until the water completely dry, then coated with gold powder, made body of law. Pagoda waiting for the completion of four years, some more than 10 million believers come to worship. Remember a few years ago we often see on television masters, has now been a金身plastic has become the people to worship the Buddha, feeling strange, hard to explain.
Temple of the main hall tie these two are new, compared with yesterday's reading of the Temple, the lack of historical sedimentation. But today the sun was shining golden dome shining red walls, the color contrast like heavy oil, especially good-looking is the shadow color, very hierarchical.
Once again, we come across cases where the Potala Palace, the tour guide Ho Tung, Tibet Travel Service, and speak well. We ask some questions, he told us very much admired his travel to Tibet, saying that if Namco can not find the car to go, you can contact him back to Lhasa, leaving the pager :126-8185060 (8.08506 million?).
He also said that the road from Gyantse Shigatse was water will back off, only backtrack. It seems that we only lived in this two night.
Nima in the temple bar the door chanced his former apprentice, I heard the side of Mount Everest tie Temple Friendship Hotel can also be the drivers introduce guests, free accommodation, we are too lazy to find hotels, also agreed. I did not realize the standard rooms here are not that expensive 160 yuan / rooms, quilts a bad odor, no hot water, the old power.
August 31 Tuesday overcast cloudy
From Shigatse to Gyantse is only 86 kilometers, but since last night, a night under the rain, roads are very muddy, Santana limitations allows us to go very slowly. Nima make a sub-Dan to drive himself to one side chanting, praying all goes well today. After more than ten kilometers from Shigatse, floods put a bridge washed out, and we had to detour, but saw a丰田越野车a set into the river, could not move, chartered is that we have met four times a foreigner. Heart has been cold, half of it urges, off-road vehicles Besides this, Santana, let alone do! Nima name of calculations, if the foreigner so that we ride, we can also help him try to drag the car out, I did not realize translation of a rebuff, saying that foreigners generally does not permit others to ride, Nima had to give up this idea. Is hesitation when coming across the river to open a tractor, we are overjoyed, along the lines of tractors successfully crossed the river, Nima proudly than that of a gesture: Sorry, we are taking a step in!
We are in the fertile valley of Gyantse walk through, here is a tributary of the Brahmaputra Nianchu River, fertile land, full of harvest scene, is the granary of Tibet Unfortunately, our luck is not a good days have been gloomy. 11:30 arrived in Gyantse, the ancient city of Gyantse six or seven hundred years of history, is the last post must pass through Tibet to Lhasa on the land, there is a result of the movie "Red River Valley" well-known cases of hill forts and baiqoi monastery. Some new highway opened to traffic, flow reduction, there is no so much the building of Shigatse, Tibetan is a very lovely town. We look at the cases see the tall, like a small hill fort and the Great Wall in general baiqoi monastery walls, each one of Tibet's cities have a regional symbol proved that Bacon's theory of urban design. There are about 4,000 meters above sea level here, and we began having just taken a few steps short of breath, much like the feeling when you first arrived in Lhasa. Street is paved with stone, made of stone on both sides of the houses are built, every house is just like they should, surrounded by a small courtyard, the roof corners are higher than the roof, stuck in colored streamer and tidy, he also has a change.
First go baiqoi monastery. Baiqoi monastery in Tibet, the rival sects, parity, establishing, therefore, is characterized by coexistence of the various denominations in a temple, (the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism sects have, Sakya, Kagyupa) each has existed in monasteries all There are several halls. We are far from seeing the white pagoda, 32 meters high, sub-nine-story, 77 Buddhist temple hall after hall, 108 doors, 100,000 Buddhist statues. The most amazing is the central tower of the four directions of Miao-Hui Zhao a pair of eyes, the line quite a modern flavor, makes Fu Xiang Lian Pian. In the main hall on the second floor, dedicated to the bronze sculpture, Tan Miao, very beautiful, surrounded by a clay Buddha, masks varnish, said there are Tibetan medicine ingredients, and masks, as in, no wonder even a small mask is also easily hundreds, is justified. We have a lot of problems, but today I saw a guide, he went to India, when four years old, read the university before returning to Tibet, and would therefore be in Tibetan, English, Hindi, Nepali, that is not good in Chinese, I really let people angry.
Gradually overcast days, and we were quickly on the hill fort, Nima and sub-Dan said above, there is no Buddha, they are not gone. On this a few days to get along, I deeply feel that all the people of this religion, religious nation, not just a belief, but also a way of life, a habit. Nyima said that if he has time, once every couple of years is necessary to worship the Buddha. Panchen Lama in the Jokhang Temple then touched the top, they all went to the family; later, when the construction of the tenth Panchen Lama, who is also the whole family to Shigatse to worship, donate money. In the tie Temple, I casually said, Panchen Lama to live in such a dark place more uncomfortable, Nima orthophoto Road: He is to live the happiness of all mankind, how can I care about whether they comfortable. We are hesitant to make irresponsible remarks of.
From the baiqoi monastery to see the back of the case of Hill Fort, mysterious and high and steep, there are more than 4100 meters above sea level, we have to climb very tired. The movie "Red River Valley" story, drawn mainly on this. Look at the situation, location and appeared to not completely here. "Case" is the old administrative divisions of Tibet units, rather with the county. Cases in which the Executive - were the living and office space, are generally built in small hills, easy to defense, and rich in dignity. A small hillside homes has become a patriotic education base, which display the Anti-British