D1 (04/28/2001)
After a night of twists and turns, the delay in the dawn finally came, on her own a heavyweight bags hastily out of the house, the heart, as children came out of the bird seems to have out of body, flying over the grasslands in Kham.
Plane finally took off, and the city far away, the sky near ... ... ... through the cloud cover, more like through time and space ... ... ... come, come, again, a clear outline of the city, Chengdu in sight.
Accommodation of traffic in Chengdu hotel, no loud noise, but it is foreigners who are familiar with Hotel (foreigners!?). Room little
The water faucet is also poor, but everyone enthusiasm will rush to settle out of hotels have been completed in preparation for a well-known goods, Chengdu snacks. But looking at the streets of Chengdu, a city of skyscrapers, shops downtown, it is interesting is that it is maze-like Backstreet streets, there are tricycle rickshaw pullers Dengzhe filed the meantime, the hotel also has hot side of the gear, what a fascinating city ah! Unfortunately, time is limited, only to rush trouble.
D2
Early in the morning, travel agencies, car and got to pick us! "Hardship Summer Camp" Start啦!
The car out of the city, the first stop on a radial straight west of Luding. Not to mention the way Murano, via Kangding, a car man growled Kangding Love Song, a cursory look at the Paoma Shan YO. Also by the "elegant woman, Ya Rain" Yaan city famous for rain, we would like to take a look at a large with open eyes, like a porcelain doll Ya'an beautiful women, but unfortunately no one way.
Noon to reach Luding, Yishanbangshui (Jinsha River) and sunny mountain, small street vendors everywhere selling cherries, a dollar a pound! We eat bread Meng.
Not only to Luding, then a non-famous can not afford to the Luding Bridge, and fly wins not to mention, around and there are always Yougejiaodai really dangerous! Wrist thick interlocking chains, and even become a bridge 100 meters long, each chain, a long interval between a palm of the hand, luckily has paved the middle of the narrow boards, but that every person walking on it is still more than Guli, faltering as a hero-like pictures of the next phase, as was the bridge to could not help but laugh.
Continue in the afternoon to the west, destination xinduqiao. As the sun sets, we have far to see a few tents, White Tower looming in the distance, vegetation is sparse, a time when in May, not all the re-green the grass and sky with gray clouds pressed over, xinduqiao up. Our accommodation is the only hostel here - the first Tibetan Kham village, Mansion is a gold and silver to wear the black tower-like Tahan, and we follow him into the dark of the Tibetan story buildings,
The second floor is a column full of beds of the ward - our collective big Tongpu the room outside the kitchen and a small restaurant, full of Tibetan layout,
The wall is a colorful Tibetan carpets, faint with butter tea taste.
Put down luggage, we will immediately go to the nearby Ta-chien-hi guides foot lit, rows to a small village, no shadows, barking smell, which bark sounds extremely violent, terrifying, and approached to see Shique found that only a small black dog, small stature, but bark like a roar, and Lee ferocious teeth, cold green eyes shot until the guide explained that it was when the Tibetan mastiff, and everyone was suddenly, servant mastiff famous fruit than to meet. And went for a while, went to the temple, and there is a monks can speak Chinese, for the time being to act as our guide. The main hall on the hillside, as xinduqiao area 4,000 meters above sea level super, there are different degrees of altitude sickness, panting, unable to fast line, but it was Jiaoruan dizziness, rapid heart beat, looking pale, monks tells us Many eminent monks of the legendary story, lead us to read the precious ancient worship the "golden" book (written in gold through the book) and as the town of Temple treasures of the human form conch ... ... ..
Raozhi the mountain monastery, there is a gentle slope in the middle of flat land covered with quartzite 2, one end of a pillar, quartzite Central slight depression, Yibing ax and a knife lying on it, just listen to Temple a Monk spit "Tianzang Tai" in the heart not help a shiver with cold the next.
Setting sun, such as blood, Si Xiali Sound from the Dark惨惨, razor cold reddish Qingguang, there are eagles in the sky circling distant hillside streamer flies, monks leisurely about the burial process, as well as the stone pillars, knives, axes of the usage, We listened in silence, suspected the evening's appetite ... .... Back to the hostel on the way, see the sunset afterglow Qingsa on hillsides, scattered with black slate roof of the White Tower of small mud exist side by side, quietly stands with trees , crown mirrored in the ramp-hui in the shape of the incomparably beautiful, everything is so quiet calm.
Dinner is a pure Tibetan yak butter tea, flour fruit, yak meat and vegetables, Kham region of high altitude, low boiling point, rice tastes bad bad loosely, but the food while not even the delicious, but we still eat, " forthright. "
D3
Night without words, each tossing in, or a splitting headache, or adjacent beds grunt upsets no peace. Early in the morning everybody swollen eyes, opened the door a look, wow thiophene! Silver Art Su-wrapped, thousands of miles Piao, everyone Mangba winter clothes to wear, really wanted to play in the snow back to wild! Night goose feather,
Our car is also a thick layer of snow Think for a bright sunny Shanghai, people dressed in summer clothing in the streets are filled with sweat, could not help Qing Xiao.
Mobilization, leave! Stunning scenery all the way, the original boring hillside suddenly snow play were extremely clear Yan, far and near pines and cypresses, such as powder loaded Yuzhuo general, the foot of a shrouded plains, occasionally interspersed with a clusters of black dots which approached and we have to It was found that groups of black yak ... ..
The way westbound, against the wind Maoxue, noon arrived at the world's first high-City - Litang, cold and hunger among the Sichuan Province in a small restaurant in the United States and the United States fought tooth festival meal. Rice BI, they huddle in the cold in the snow and wind toward Ker Monastery, allowed to gaze longingly into its towering temples, they found it near the temple door wide open, but the shadows without a trace, guess may be too much snow, lamas were off the main Dianmen, not out of the welcoming, and had to feel disappointed with the response.
Afternoon drive straight Inagi, as the blizzard eased the car has always hovered in the 4,500 meters between the ups and downs of the mountain, suddenly to a strange mountain, mountainside with boulders of various sizes throughout, and even put some of Jiji edge of a cliff, the companies whose the next could not help but pinch into a cold sweat, the mountains can be called to free three feet flat, full of bumps and hollows of the canyons, exotic landscape may have been cause for suspicion here is the ancient seabed, while the tour guide's explanation had also confirmed this is contiguous to Inagi The Haizi Shan, crossing the Haizi Shan, Inagi it to snow after the great prime Yen Ching greet us ... ... ..
Inagi a considerable degree of localization, guess may be more reason for mainland tourists, some hotel restaurants decorated very modern, but the lovely Tibetan folk customs have not changed and is very honest enthusiasm. We were warmly received snow wolf child, snow wolf wife is a legend, this is a local tax collectors, the latter due to love to travel and abandoning "tax" investment "Tour", for others humorous, and his brand new hotel opened, what are all for nothing new. Inagi local rich in geothermal resources, in addition to hot spring bath outside, even the laundry, flushing toilets with hot water are indeed a luxury.
Became exhausted, lifeless night.
D4
Heaven for the United States, blue skies, because we are only for a short stay in Inagi not went to Aden, for one day only in Inagi collecting folk songs. We are marching with the Tibetans in general a slow leisurely pace, through the Trinidad Green Yang Lin, demonstrated in front of us is rolling hills, and extending into the foot into a piece of their rice fields (rice Daocheng is to abound in the plateau region well-known), Tanaka a compact shape Tibetan pigs, black coat was shiny, groups of a family and with a mouth to servant trouble, villages scattered distributed in the plains, this region of the houses are naturals at the wall, two-story building, much less possession of the residential areas to the use of bold colors and unrestrained, the only bright spot is the trapezoid Tibetan painted bright windowsill. There Tibetans sitting leisurely in the first door he saw we expose friendly and shy smiles, children are curious to the end as we, the plain or sporadic, or into the existence of discrete poplar planting a beautiful, straight trunk in the sun suffused with a soft silvery white color under the tree Lindera stretch, density delivered, I murdered a lot of film for them.
At noon in a small restaurant for dinner, during which there are thick wipe Yan loaded Tibetan girl with a beautiful silver long-necked pot Xian butter tea, another a pair of performances from Little Sisters of Tibetan Tibetan dance, is really a very impressive and immediately a brother nosebleed, such as injection, when everybody was Jue Dao ... ... ..
The afternoon to the local project is the largest hot spring hot spring bath, car cited us to the summit, we saw a huge swimming pool ocean eyes,
Separate bathrooms for men and women, but no one to turn, deter everyone. JULIA and I decided to take a chance, imagine the kind of hot spring water and melt in the hot feeling, how a cool Zile De!
D 5
Early in the morning from the Inagi, assembled the road, went to towns and, passing sumdo, a pedestrian Duo to rush off to Temple.
The sun was shining all the way Pine clouds and shimmering turquoise, there is a Mu Banqiao across the shallows, streams murmur, Toyama Baita, even more quiet. Step-Rusi, everywhere through the tube, along the winding corridor, turn clockwise through the cylinder while the line is still a Whisper Rudian sound of chanting filled with butter flavor, Fat Jong Temple with all the same hall was dark, Lama The red in the flickering candlelight, under extremely eye-catching. A time when the monastery was rebuilt, the courtyard filled with wood, we are within walking distance and the line, from time to time a small zaba curious peep from the little window where we are ... ....
Continue westbound, we are still in the foothills between the time the now, the winds and the line, the way is OK to think of being known as the Bam Kamiyama home towns and how beautiful it is time, a hillside town YR front of building multi-purpose concrete, wall tiles posted, style has been completely finished, pedestrians were mostly the Han Dynasty loaded very uninteresting, tour guides pointing to the distance an obscure mountain is Bam Kamiyama, really disappointing, only a small The service was very good restaurant, a stone of beef were unforgettable.
Lunch has been completed, Sichuan, the last leg of the trip, but also the highlights of this trip - it was near wing. Continue all the way travel fatigue, it is interesting actually appeared in a roadside clumps of cactus, but also turned a valley, amazing sight appeared, the valleys of rivers flowing like jasper, the two sides of buildings everywhere, cars come to the , and the way desolate indeed is a big contrast to the too-wing. Next get their cars and found the shop gem, and we have to stay at the hotel wing is said to be the best local hotels, really pleasant surprises. Dinner is authentic Tibetan, everyone staring at a table butter tea, rice pudding, Baba, walnuts, highland barley wine, bold timid or less tasted a few mouthfuls.
D6
Early morning departure from the get-wing, along the penetration, but after the city determined qu winding up the mountains, the river very closely resemble southern trees, green fields .... The very poor road conditions, mountain narrow, we almost posted cliff walk can not help but fear, frightened, more than two hours later, we entered the forest, due to the high altitude of reasons, trees in coniferous forests mainly out of trees surrounded our car stopped at an Xiaoping, the slope of the mountain village, eyes suddenly cheerful, a yellow-green of the meadows, such as along the carpet like a sponge, surrounded by snow-capped mountains surround the face of our field of vision is the most open White Mang Snow Mountain, Longitudinal and line, through the layers of pine forests, snow-capped mountains, such as a jade belt, Wang was the immediate , undulating hills, Tianyu connecting, silhouetted against the snow-white peaks of the blue sky, mountain breeze refreshing, everything is relaxed and happy, the Peak more than 4000 meters above sea level, we will be gasping for every little trick a grassland on a group of Tibetan girls, dressed in colorful Tibetan equipment, see us to raise the camera will be Fuseshita body, head buried too Didi De, simplicity was very distressed. Along the forest trails, and everyone there each arm, some leaning on a walking stick branches made, step by an asthma walk the hill, do not feel tired in Yueshuixiaoxiao Peak Lookout there is a red pavilion, a very cute, but also the best location overlooking the snow-capped mountains, the small pavilion at the foot of the crowd creak creaked, as if we are unable to bear the harassment, distant snow-capped mountains because of heavy fog and not clear, but we are still "Kacha Kacha" drastically press the shutter, rest for a while, still backtrack.
Going car Come on everybody, emotions were running high, all the way Uygur, ethnic, popular, opera, Minor, each play an active role, ultimately the driver instructors are deeply infected, roar a "friend" on the edge of the cliff of the mountain, the loud and clear voice resound Grove, enjoyable!
D7
Tak Wing morning out into the mountains, along bumpy, near midday we reached the midpoint of the entire trip - under the pro-scenic area, and we will also work with keeping us company for a number of days the car worship, switch to Siti's horse - mule, And at this point is not who pick horses, but horses pick talent (according to thin decisions). I was a little skinny horse picked to see if it looks like a thin yellow, very lovable, but this is my slim Zicun caused by heart Qiexi also tied. I am riding in Xinjiang have had experience, so do not be afraid, but very much enjoyed. The beginning of the line section is uphill, bare slope, and almost no vegetation, we are under the sweltering heat, with the mountain's ups and downs, on horseback rock with laughter (on horseback to maintain a balance skills), encounter steep slopes, have to dismount on foot. Groom were all Tibetan, very interesting, more or less understand at least some Chinese, all the way down not very lonely. Magnificent scenery, mountain canyons, masculine aggressiveness.
There are not many in the next pro-village, entrance to the village with slate-chip stacked in the Mani Dui, each stone carved on both the scriptures and the beautiful textures. This is a lovely small village located in the mountainside in a gentle slope, the tens of families, each door has a green, shady terraces and walnut trees, there are drains throughout the village, as quoted in the Peak springs used for drinking and irrigation. Groom gave their guests welcome us to their home, we were divided into two groups went to two.
We went to that house has a large courtyard, Tibetan houses are very spacious, but because of the small window appears Ershi room dark, the roof of the central government to open a small skylight, poured down a bunch of light beam to illuminate the ground shiny The bronzes, there is a solemn feeling. Hospitable host sent the hot tea and nuts ... .... Used the lunch rush, out of the room and saw the Tibetan girl, reclining on the gate, outside the house under the sun shine into a beautiful silhouette, in the courtyard of the walnut tree under the old mother in spinning, all this is so simple and beautiful.
Helping You launched, and then further on is a virgin forest, and giant tree Zhetian temperatures have also decreased. Let us ride and the line, but also the same as the groom willing to cleanse drinking spring water quench their thirst. Rhododendron forest in full bloom, red and white form a contrast, Qingli exception. Beyond that, the Huting sound of water came from far and near, a turning, startled eyes fleet has a waterfall, the water to clear, taste is extremely sweet, water vapor mist below, you may have to sit rock, or lean grass, can not tell the carefree, here is the magic of "dumb rule Ruquan waterfall."
Sunset, summer heat fading, we move on after a rest, and sometimes climbed the steep Panzhi attached leaves, and sometimes leisurely walk through towering trees in between the song and the way they groom, singing loud reverberation in the forest not be extinguished, Even soon as whistled also very vivid ... ....
Faint sound was heard, followed by fire is near a more see the incomparably beautiful cottage, the open space on the front of the house burning flames of the bonfire, and our camp is up. We now are cold and hungry, baggage will be completed to settle a pro to a hut, house living in harmony with a more fragrant candles in the original table is cause for slander is saliva dripping food, although a simple dish, at the moment they felt extremely delicious, everyone at the moment the state of no less than with the Tigers down the mountain, a moment will be among the clean sweep. Fond, everyone around the campfire chatting, the Tibetans were joyful jump "Guozhuang" - a simple and fun dance rhythm, a bit like a dance student at the time line, we jump enjoying themselves.
Plateau mountains, surprisingly cold at night, that night was memorable, because the memory of the night is only a "cold" character, although the quilt and sleeping bags have been used, but the biting cold that still torment me one night.
D8
Morning, we black the eye socket up, opened the door, the golden ray of sunlight passing Lin Shao, projected on the tip of the distant snow-capped mountains, sky blue Meihuo have to have a sense of towering trunks of the trees will be straight stabbing Sky In such an atmosphere, we launched along the mountain and on the way beautiful scenery, not much will we come to the sun meadow - a jade-like in the mountains surrounded by grassland, guides for us to prepare a traditional Tibetan clothing, everyone Phi wrapped linked to wear, competing with the "horse" and the mountains photo, I feel completely fresh. But the twinkling of an eye between the cloud blocks out the sun, it began to rain, the temperature dropped sharply, we launched a last resort back to camp, walking in the woods, the Chou-point fall foliage on the Susu sound, soft hoofs, set off the forest, the more issued by the quiet and groom have the occasional one Liangsheng shouting across the pond as the water ripples, Xu Yujian resumed calm and quiet of this very heavy sense of time seems to have solidified a.
Back to the camp, the rain is getting up, everyone had to hide, opened the cabin Board, first heavy rain outside the house, the house is only light rain, but as more and more dense rain, the rain is also growing in the house, everyone had to stop there stood Lang Yanxia listen to the rain hit branches of the voice chat is actually only between the rain, and groom's whistle sound is far from coming again, mixed with water chestnut, and hanging bells sound, and our heart jump for joy up whom . Then left towards the holy lakes, holy lakes not far from the camp, across a coniferous forest and fir forest, jasper-like "8"-shaped lakes are seeing the distant tip of the snow-capped mountains looming in the clouds, shore, wind and horse flags fluttering in the wind, although rain was underway at the moment, but we have our hearts so that we have decided to pilgrimage around the lake a week, according to a clockwise direction, and we start from the left bank of the rock pile, wind and rain, slippery mud, walking up and a considerable effort, finally to "8" at the bottom, here is a dry river bed (at the time the dry season), chapped lines criss-cross, as in numerous things, and remembered reverently sixth Shingon, drinking a saint lake it is surprisingly sweet ... ...
D9
Early morning I packed my things, bid farewell to the camp, Return Journey at the time when we went down another road, more ups and downs of the mountain, more dense forests, along line made countless fine spring day. Rest of the time, overlooking the mountains stacked barrier, despite the rising breeze was blowing, blue sky overhead, sun, foot loess Chishui heart, pride Dunsheng. With the elevation of the reduction of summer heat is also encroaching up, the vegetation gradually less then exposing the optical backbone of the hillside. Sweating when the lovely village of the next possession again with its refreshing to meet us, along the village's canals consistent over the village, Mashimo to the foot of the mountain, we are a long absence, the van had been waiting for a long time, and the next were Malays, Hu Wang about Man is the dust and sweat is red-scarred face, and simmer with laughter ... ..
We are out of the car under the possession of a track towards the South, went straight to Yunnan. Car dealers for several hours, the immediate scenery suddenly see the light, the high mountains in Sichuan gone, replaced by gentle mountains, lane width, and flat, and vast plains, lush vegetation, the air is humid up, distant soft hillside in the sun emerged in blue-purple, green meadow nearby mountains dotted with colorful flowers and with the blue sky the same color stream, so Yunnan's land, he would really beneath our feet, and almost everyone cheered in the car together.
At sunset we arrived in Zhongdian, a group of Ashen's "bumpkin" carrying their own luggage wrapped in a big ceremony, under the eyes of the crowd into the Zhongdian Hotel, 8:00 outrageous only hot water and I JULIA (loud noise Also It's our?) decided to go outside, wash, wander through the streets. -Street shops to medicine shops and travel agencies are mostly square crowd waiting to be ignited a bonfire, bath son depth alley, every single room is the shape of rooms, outside a bed with sofa, inner room is the bathroom the layout is extremely suspicious ... ... .. wash out is the lanterns, the belly is empty city singing, happy coincidence today is also COCO 25-year-old birthday, we give his own views insisted eat a big meal is not rushed to a nearby hot pot restaurants, Chattering a while the menu is already crowded little circle, it was arrived not survive, the wrong potato chips as the Health and munching apple slices, full table laughter ... .... During the meeting, Tuibeihuanzhan, but also cherish the memory of some 25-year-old green years, thoroughly enjoyed themselves and dispersed.
D10
Songzanlinsi is the size of the possession of a great temple base is divided into a number of courtyards, each representing different domains of the reservoir, under the guidance of our tour guides near Hall, is still a rich butter flavor, but the monks of the Chinese language is surprisingly good, and were long and very Chou Cheng-chih, but desperate and female customers do not want a photo, can be annoying!
A Temple is preparing to leave, Hu Ting-street cry sound bursts, was originally a monk dead, is going to burial, while the monk's burial, outsiders can look at really (depending on the Tibetan rules, burial among relatives of all the rest have To avoid, a woman is regarded as taboo.) We are a group of both curiosity and fear, the final decision still have to take a chance. Mighty funeral procession led by monks in the middle are relatives, finally they are spectators, Tian Zangtai the hills not far away, and with the walls enclosing the scale compared to the big xinduqiao a lot, I saw green grass on the patchy even many white objects, tour guides say that they are human bones, came closer, it really was dense the bones, bone, skull .... in the sun suffused with fluorescent, surrounded by blocks of shadows weaken it kinds of climate of fear, everyone from the initial dismay will soon calm down, the head of a small team or even a kick Zaba played Lao Gao to a skull.
The funeral began, Zhongseng the stretcher carrying the body flat on the floor, the body covered with a blanket, very strangely uplifted, and open a quilt, the original line of the bodies were tied into a ball, knees bent, hands clinging to the knee, the first buried between the knees, is not difficult to see that this is an elderly person. There are monks brought his whole carefully placed in the cask has previously buried in the pit, and then everyone careful to cast the body of salt and butter, then sprinkled a thick layer of charcoal on one side we see a loss tour guide explained that very few eagles this season is not suitable for burial, while the status of the dead was a high monk chanting monks, supposedly should be cremated, but now comes barley Qi Miao, cremation very easily lead to fires, and hence corpses buried into the ground first, save, wait until the autumn was excavated cremation, salt and charcoal is undoubtedly used as a preservative. Tian Zangtai at the moment there is no atmosphere of grief, there are lamas in the candy to the crowd, dressed in red cassock and a group of small zaba sat on the floor, laughing and joking, and perhaps in Buddhism, the death is just detached and another starting point for Bale.
Afternoons Bita Lake, elevation over 4,000 meters, standing at the park entrance overlooking snow-capped mountains, such as the hump-like along the cotton one, vision is the blue sky behind him on the slopes of the mountain is full of blooming rhododendrons, a pity that the text can not make out its the United States. Bita Lake is a virgin forest, but the scale much smaller than the next possession, scenery is also a bit less rustic charm, especially in sub-Na Pianhai particularly disappointing.
D11
Baishuitai is the way to go to Lijiang, the first one attraction, as the birthplace of Dongba culture, where local people will naturally become the ancestors of the Holy Land. Box decorated with perhaps the only being used in hieroglyphs - Dongba paper, Shashi fun. Unfortunately, bad weather,
It began to rain, waiting an hour after the strike strike strike, for the time being with what the driver borrowed buttered tea flavored with a heavy umbrella bar. Baishuitai the origin of its name is due to spring water here is rich in calcium carbonate, the event of condensation formed a lime, so it covers the entire hillside pale lime layer, in some places it is adjusted for a long lime to form a terrace-like layers of a platform, overflowing with blue springs, the Qing Yan incomparable. Rain baishuitai even more quiet, all the way gurgling streams, there are small groups of cattle with our chance encounter from time to time, leisurely eating roadside leaves, overlooking the distant mountains, rain and fog, the smoke winding like Margaret's Baiyun Mountain between, do not have a bone-Yi Road, Xian Jia show, the forest, there are numerous small pools, in the trees, moss, and relieved against the blue sky showing a blue, green, yellow and different colors, combined with pools of varying shape and the rain it seems clear the air, bright, almost strange.
To continue to the road, all the way cloud cover mountains, really would like to thank This rain, the kind of wet clean air, and "white clouds, see the depths of others," the mood is indeed give birth to a paradise for himself.
Coming from the river roared far lead us to the "Tiger Leaping Gorge Nature Reserve", car winds along the mountain road, the Pentium cliffs on both sides of the Jinsha River valley between the roar of the huge gap to make water become more swift heavy, rumbling water deafening. Our occasional tiger jumped in Teacher Chang 1, his family's homes after a steep Hill Road leading directly to the river bank, so there are four of us decided to stay overnight Chang teacher's house a small inn, a tiger jumped explore style and the remaining few of us have rushed to Lijiang, a path set up camp on the way in the last tiger jumped pause, is said here is the triple jump in the middle and lower section of the most boring, but when the person riverside, rock Lan Jiang, spray flying, it's still terrifying.
From the tiger jumped into the town of Lijiang, there are still more than an hour's drive, getting deep twilight, are among anxious to find that a car turning, suddenly in front of a brightly lit, Lijiang in sight ... ...
Pen-line now, suddenly felt silent, perhaps related to the text of Lijiang has been too much need for me to go into here, but for me, Lijiang have a special side, perhaps because the first one I heard about his story occurred in Lijiang, but also perhaps because of the kind of living conditions in line with some of my ideals, in short, Lijiang to me more like a fragile dream, I'd prefer to think of it carefully Cangzaixinli bar.
- End
Author: _ceair502188231