"Life between heaven and earth suddenly, such as a long journey passengers. Want to go alone in the horizon, so that the time had on the road like a. Ma Yong measures to the next is not a desire, on the blood, and without thought, never forget. In May 2002 was my 24-year-old birthday coincides with the Tibetan Year of the Horse of water and Sakyamuni's birthday, all right, only to be starting.
"May 1 join the company's activities in Macau, Zhuhai, tour, come back the report submitted his resignation. Streamlining of equipment, if not return the expansive freedom of the soul in that place would be happier. 10 collar wages get on the company to Guangzhou delivery vehicle, the driver thought I was home, we must take me to the train station.
"The train began to go to Lanzhou. And strangers chat, always smiling, polite but cold. I do not know how many times travel alone, and most prefer to walk on the road does not belong to the past and the future in front of all the unknown, has limitless possibilities.
"Plan to go Qinghai-Tibet line, to Lanzhou to Golmud to buy tickets the night. In time, and in the drizzling rain through the city, bought a fool Ricoh machines.
"On the train found my position in the middle of two big men, are discouraged, station soldiers know that they are friends find my car still capped and immediately booked to go. That their return to Golmud, and I said I went to Lhasa. Who is going to Lhasa? Was asked, I would jump the aisle called, I呀! A girl down from the upper berth, so know the girls, Solan measures and Hong Kong, Lhasa, came Mr Choi. Adventure continued. Suranand measures by the friend entrusted with Mr Choy to Lhasa sending him to Shannan. To Golmud She has friends coming to pick, I can reach ride. Military friends to see me find a companion for me happy. Get off with everyone eating, Suannai, the first sub-drink cans of fresh yogurt, like chunks of tofu, really liked. Golmud Fengshahenda, but bright and sunny, the first time to see the snow-capped mountains of Mr Choi had been rushed to come up with the camera filming them.
"Did not expect Solan measures no friends to the afternoon, the phone can not get through, we are worried that they worry. (Later found out he could not find themselves playing to go) take the truck after discussing the decision. Qinghai to Lhasa to find delivery fleet of 150 one-person bargaining. Sitting on a big high wind cabin, feeling okay.
"Qinghai-Tibet Railway. May the Qinghai-Tibet Railway is not green, been to the west, used the window Napian deserted. Mountains have snow, we can see glaciers, extremely pure blue sky. Qinghai-Tibet Railway starts soon, with China Railway 13 Bureau of wilderness exploration team of such houses and tents, human activity brings a little life to the plateau. Lan measures with me car, a long with lovely apple face, she said her name means auspicious, good name, I was punk, emigrated. May be the team does not fly up and could not walk for long had a bad car, and all vehicles are stopped and so on. Really bad, I have time for the next birthday to Ma Yong measures, Mr Choi holidays are also a limited time to do away delays. Reminders driver can not quickly want to transfer but less than the total stopped, just sit and look at other people passing.
"Sun has just fade, twinkle lights up the stars have been. More than the United States, the world's only pure bright Xinghai, Bear constellation far away, this bright and lofty. People, tiny incomparable. Past after another, once young and frivolous, in the hometown of the roof to see the Star to fall asleep. In conjunction with the star who has been hidden in the back of yellow, the feelings of calm, there is no resentment in her.
"Asked another car the next morning Mr CHOI sleep well, he said that heating is too small, almost cold. In this cold would be life-threatening, I said that He was sitting in my department, he and I sat this Solan measures. Transfer the driver after the first give candy, eye Deep bearded big man, that he is a Russian sneak off to, and in Qinghai long time. This carriage return on the heating turned up too high, I have nose bleeding. They said that I first entered Tibet, Tanggula I do not know whether the past, Solan come up with measures of glucose injection injection points for everyone to drink, whether it be a useless, I believe that he could in the past, and never retreat. Tanggula faster when the headache, head like a needle in the thorn, I am calm and collected. To pass off the running back and forth between the monument and the streamer. Wind colorful flags fluttering sound of the wind horse is standing on map of point of view of 10 million times in place? Mood remained so calm. Mr CHOI They called off, but he and Solan measures had to lie down, but fortunately not serious. I can admire if nothing had happened to activities, but only with the will to control. Dinner walk to the street, outdoor temperature is low, wind and cold, can be so brilliant Star, enough to arrive way too hard. Favorite this free time.
"After the fourth day morning Nagqu County, Tibetan-style house, white wall street is making up the cow dung cakes, and really chic. Sometimes several houses between the trees sprout new trees to a small village in a quiet and peaceful, as much southern flavor, watching I do not know where you are. Fan Master laughed a little girl you are very spiritual, certainly safe to Ali, have the opportunity to take my car again, the next to charge less points.
"Has finally arrived in Lhasa to see the famous statue of the Yak. Suranand measures to accompany us to the auspicious day hotel. Auspicious days in Beijing West Road, there are a lot of backpacker travel. Mr CHOI live in triple room, I would like to single room, thinking that soon to leave the sub to him. I live 301 services is a Tibetan girl, helping to take backpacks, attitude very well. The room clean and tidy beds, furniture and all Tibetan-style wooden table with lockers, each door has a chair. It sat reading a leisurely chat with the sun. Finishing things, Huanyi bathing, dirty clothes on the bag inside to the hotel, since it was Naqu wash. Noon Suranand measures to take us to the Jokhang Temple Square, 8 Gallery cafe to eat. I am vegetarian, point vegetable fried rice, they have to beef curry. Whether or not to butter tea? Want! Waiter to take a thermos flask, this? 15 pounds, and strive to drink, can be anti-altitude sickness, and hydrate the skin. Looking glass m yellow liquid, smell the smell of mutton a little flavor, aroma and not greasy. Vegetable fried rice is a carrot, and green vegetables scrambled eggs, there is a feeling in Lhasa in order to live a good point, so the weight of rice eaten for more than, 15 pounds of butter tea has also been slowly three finish. Gallery 8 Cafe location is doing well, dine and wine at the same time you can see the square in Lhasa and the surrounding mountains, the Peak attachment do not always have clouds. If resident in Lhasa, to enjoy every day how good this kind of life. No one hurry, expression cold, the sun so pure, and even the air of serenity and easy. But unfortunately I'm just passing through.
"Go to 8 Gallery Street, pedestrian flow, such as weaving, Tibetan, businessmen and tourists between the shuttle. Everywhere can be heard to the taste of butter tea and Tibetan incense, body, such as sleepwalking, to too easy, almost could not believe that the hearts of countless people standing in the Holy Land on, no one felt a little strange land. Lan measures tell us something eight gallery street stalls throughout most of the wholesale-style, remember the value of nothing. Still interested in side to side to understand what pulled she asked. Cream ice cream 1 1, pure milk flavor. Children who spoke English with the run. Walked selling ethnic clothing, knives, Thangka, transfer through the tube, jewelry, precious stones, food ... ... of these stalls for those who say no enthusiasm to attract the owner. Fancy a sixth mantra and the Sun Moon Star engraved bracelet, likes to buy to wear.
"Back to the auspicious day with the good tomorrow morning 8:00 Solan measures to take us to the Potala Palace. Until now remained, such as sleepwalking, dug out the dead grandmother's photographs, the world's most loving people I have, but she died when I was not at home ... ... grief, the cry.
"Very early on to go outside and sit up, bright sunshine has been all-pervasive. Young foreigners upstairs, said Good morning! Back to him the same greeting, there is no strange feeling. Mr Choy in the 3rd floor on the other side waving, and he up early. Direct measures such as Solan until 9:00 or so, perhaps they could no Tibetans in attitudes to time, think her friend did not credit, ranging from the.
"Stands the summit of Red Hill in Lhasa, Potala Palace, the golden dome Lingyun, group F, touchdown magnificent, despite the millennium snow, still dazzling. She founded on Red Hill's waist, and the mountain on the potential, layer upon layer is built, with a steep cliff peak integration. The main building from the White House and the Red Palace composition of the middle Red Palace, the White House points on both sides. Abdallah loss of access to language, I think it should go down to it, unless to participate in its formation process, to pursue its causes and consequences, if they can not help it, just only for the adventures, it could accelerate the disappearance of Ali's trip so do not Guge . Silent walk through the various palaces, when the palace of the people? Princess Wen Cheng of the voice and facial expression disappeared into the clouds Which film? Nowhere to imagine. Would prefer that year an entourage to accompany her to the snowy plateau ... ... Chuanshanyueling into the Lama Temple, the famous V Dalai Lama, the lama explained by the number of gold and precious stones, looking back to see the wall of a Bodhisattva Han-style line drawing practices, rounded lines, smooth, kind face of the Buddha. Says with deep emotion, and even pray together, let me not take go on bar! Potala Palace, the glittering golden dome on top of seven, are brackets supporting, high and low scattered in the blue sky to fall will shine gold.
"Out there Huangruogeshi feeling. The bright spring sunshine gentle as water, my mother is pulling her turn by turn cylinder. A group of wild pigeons flew gently.
"And Mr Choy went to 8 Gallery Cafe to eat fried rice and vegetables. Met Solan measures, she said to go to see friends and uncomfortable injections, and injections but also the afternoon, we all go their respective ways. But she told me to Ali, the border must be cards. Mt this year, too many people, Ali had to do outside the Tibetan border card can go in, I do not know. Suranand measures there is no way, she said we can ask a travel agent to help.
"Jokhang Temple. This famous temple was built in the mid-7th century AD, is located in the center of Lhasa, the Tibetan Buddhist temple golden eyes. Buddha Temple is the main body of the Jokhang Temple is the Jokhang Temple in its essence. Hall Princess Wen Cheng from Chang-Zhu Gong brought to the Sakyamuni Buddha in Tibetan Buddhism as a whole faithful conversion center. 23 F Dan Lamu between the law-enforcement classes shrine, is the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa City and the entire law-enforcement Goddess. A huge golden dome top four were built in the mid-14th century AD and 17th century, they erected in the central city of Lhasa, such as the Dapeng Bird started gold wings, particularly in the plateau shine bright sunlight. Clear-year month, spring, summer autumn and winter, day and come to worship the Buddha turning around the endless stream of faithful pilgrims. I often contact the Buddhist thing, have their own views on Buddhism, the Buddha in their hearts, not to any other places. Into the practice of Buddha Temple to see things, sat rows of chanting monks, tourists stand by butter lamps do not put out the millennium. Older Zhong Lama Lama to distribute money, tarpaulin stand in the sunshine outside the temple atmosphere, mysterious and solemn. Long walk by turning the Road, studying Tibetan prayer wheels as 11 rotating turn, tentacles reach of all the oil is constantly being turned perennial sake bar. The walls of the corridor on the Buddhist legend of the beautiful picture. Up to the Golden Summit, one point from blessing of Pak-chi, good people, that plume of blue smoke of your desire to be able to bring heaven on? In Jinding maintenance side of the labor side of young men and women singing in antiphonal style, to someone else before The Travels and read, did not think I have seen. 1000 experienced difficulties kowtowing to the faithful here and the door closed, eyes bright and serene. All things gave me the impression that they are peaceful quiet.
"Asked the border to travel card, 200 yuan a person in charge said, it can not guarantee that has ever. Back room of the auspicious days to 8 Lang studied it, to live 301. To the border guards, they say or do the border card to find travel agencies, called the unit out to prove or official stamp. Around around in circles, looking for Ali to the truck and saw the nearby residential areas, the high gate decorated with skulls hanging from the sheep, and the other tenants, yak skulls, very Tibetan characteristics, shoot them down. Back to the city to find Solan measures, and she took me to her sister's cafe. Email a friend, ask you where? They also think of the work from nine to five on the gently laugh and wife asked me where he comes from, tell her I went to Ali, the need to do seal the border card, you can lend me a good? She said no, next to Solan measures of the friends that I can help you. His father's Political Consultative Conference in Lhasa, the little boy took my ID card out. 20 minutes after the hand over of a piece of paper back. I know that spent two weeks in Lhasa, the border card swallowed their anger do not retire, and do not know how to thank these strangers in life, or God to fulfill me?
"Many hotels outside Lhasa, have message boards, find companions, car rental news everywhere. In Asia hotels, auspicious days, eight Long science, snow ran for the door, there was a Mr. Zhang, a message to Ali to find companion car, time, and I am almost. Hit his mobile phone but can not get through, I left my room number asked him to contact me. Never thought that they were simply mistaken, others thought I was looking for Mr. Zhang over, including Hu, Long school for the first time in eight meetings, and later met again at the lake. At that time there is no bad impressions of each other's counterparts.
"Itself to Norbulingka. Is not a weekend, and few visitors. Norbulingka There are many tall trees, wild flowers bright side paths, green grass, air floating catkins, snow or fog, the future is hard to imagine before the Lhasa have such scenery. Walk the zoo and saw monkeys, bears, sheep, deer, rabbits these animals, feelings, and the mainland about. Did not visit the building, a leisurely Huangdao the woods, looking for stars lying in the shade of pine trees, I gradually came to sleep. Until a gust of wind from Yula wake up, after they get out but the sun bright, the sky is like that snow and rain is just a catkin, Spring Dreams no trace.
"The evening to see Mr CHOI, his summer holidays were nearly finished letter into Tibet, not news, just to stay in Lhasa, Tibet just after, I did not find a car to Ali. They lamented about it, I wish he had time to be properly play again, he wished me well into the Da Ali. Such a good companion, turn into a passers-by.
"Long back eight other studies found that sexual intercourse two girls came back and he is a fellow. 1 is also the first time to Tibet, planned to go to Shannan, and the other came from the Tiger Leaping Gorge on foot, but also on the Everest base camp. Both young and dedicated, eager to extraordinary experiences, not seeking fame and fortune, only for the soul ever since the fire.
"Zaiqu Ali office in Lhasa, the Tibetan antelope, to find a car transport company to Ali. Set the last one votes, 20:00 drive. Back to the urban area to the Agricultural Bank of China to collect the money and will not use its ATMs, go find someone to help ABC quarters. 5:00 p.m. to find out is repair (after the way cars are constantly bad). Other passengers, onlookers, I observed on one side, guess someone else's identity and character is very interesting. Some people are talking about one meter outside the Shiquanhe, and also my next destination, listen to and they said that a car company in Shiquanhe to Champlain, I interrupted, may also Shiquanhe ride. They are Sight, and you go there? Yes. A person? Yes ah. Who heard me say this very surprised look of the students I do not like the gas backpack girl. They Wenchangwenduan then said there is with the David. Hope is a good companion, or rather walk alone. Car repair to 22:00, to find the location of the innermost of the bunk beds, beds and quilts such as garbage-like smell dirty. David sat in front, seat, front is the endless landscape. All clothes to sleep, dream, hear the voice of his sister.
"The morning to see the beloved beige baseball cap has been dirty. Sat down in front of the engine cover, the Tibetan teacher Tashi is very straightforward, Qinghai master Xiao Li likes to chat with pretty girls. And David chat, he talks about his outdoor clubs and activities, such as companion could wish for, I am a rookie with the line of words, he is Laolv. David told me to turn lakes alone express my admiration. There is also a vehicle to Ali, his surname Dong, behind him chairman. Tashi is still the master not only the straightforward honest, does he know I went to turn lakes Ali, both puzzled and admiration, I found that this indicates to me on the way popular attention, it is not surprising to me, has always been love of freedom and arbitrary, in the eyes others Lane would want to provoke their protection. Tashi master brought a case of Wahaha, each drink will be to me. The Director has snacks, so when I excitedly looking around, we will from time to time someone called Fei-Fei and then! Then snacks come from the air. Given to David, and he got to know each named after his brother. He said that in Lhasa, he was sent to Tibet to meet the big brother, big brother few days ago lived in a Tibetan house, I envied very luminous eyes. To chat with him very happy destiny staggered so that we may eventually have their own direction.
"Left Lhasa road is poor, almost a blind alley and saw a mess of the rut on the ground, Tashi teacher often can not see a way out from our place to find a way out. Ironically, he drove long period of time would be asleep, she let the magic sound of brain-like wearing a heavy metal, so that is also according to not hit wrong, then he deliberately pulled to the pits on the open car along a bumpy he jumped in his seat several times, never tired of. We are on one side and said he was as cute as the old urchin. Almost all the passengers are asleep, Tashi is equivalent to rocking the cradle of the game, but he is really tired, there are times he opened eyes closed for five minutes, but fortunately this time the road could be open 20 large wind side by side. His brother told him to rest for Xiao Li. Did not take long car was broken. Mourning his unfortunate birthday tomorrow, are still on the road.
"Night, see the Star, such as the diamond sea. Did not think this is the worst night of the entire trip. Evening to go through a few more than 5000 meters above sea level the lot. Beds so poor huddled fully clothed, when Sishuifeishui headache, pain when compared with more than Tanggula. Britain followed the car were up, each time by a hammer as heavily hit, fight back with the hope that the night quickly in the past. Today's birthday, his family still do not know I came to Tibet, just love wayward uninhibited forever be regrets.
"When the sun comes out they all wake up his younger brother to see their minds at ease, headache, Ye Hao-point. Li was driving during the day, a beautiful lake in the Lu-yu want to go when you are afraid he would not stop, the two twitter, and Tashi master probe from the upper berth ask, you say? Would like to shoot off that lake. Then go to ah, we pointed Xiao Li, Xiao Li Tashi master knock shoulders, you stop, let them go! Xiao Li 2 stare We stopped the car, and we washed the past, the beautiful blue lake in the loess into a quiet child, such as Office, the lake there are sheep and shepherds, I took three men to see that the shepherd in master hand behind her back out into his eyes, not very friendly, and pulled his brother on the run, he asked how baffling it? I say that others do not want啦! Tashi on the car in front of master said that this lake there, but also lost to Wahaha. My brother said, Feifei you first and I went to turn mountains, turn Kanyama sub-Lake better. Thought, good. Night sit on the engine cover as much as possible shrunk to a small group, or a cold. Lights illuminate the street to see a hare, see the light and ran, white legs and tail a channeling hop quickly disappeared in the darkness inside, and the window will always be immortal Star.
"The road to the Shiquanhe mountain is different, as if particular desolate loneliness, a blue river side of the road, grass, or yellow, grassland desertification caused by burrowing rodents everywhere. Shiquanhe Ali capital, is located in the Gobi Desert in a flat full of sand, Shiquanhe flows from here, which is India's "river of God," one of the sources, but was dressed very colorful garbage. Younger brother and chairman of a good day off with me obtain other car to tha cheen, the younger brother not to do the border permits. Live Ali Guest House, the cheek of the waiter that we are a student, cheaper point, after the waiter to the manager agreed to call 35 yuan / person. The room fairly clean, a few days without rest, see the bed do not want to move. My brother said, where there is a bath, take a bath! Immediately take things, look at my brother pulls from his backpack, Bear, slippers, Tai Erge poetry, umbrellas ...... rookie is a rookie laughs, but also took out did not finish the glucose injection, this time he grabbed the throw into the trash. Why? Rookie! Who is drinking this it? Buy bags of do not understand? Guest house opposite the reception of the external bath of Posts and Telecommunications 10 yuan / time, large washing special washing, bathing do not know when will the next time. Back to the hotel with the good sense and then go out Xianshui a small supper. I read books, go back to holding his brother's travels have been written a few words Wai Zhuotou sleep, poor child.
"People's Armed Police Detachment of the morning to go running border cards, to tha cheen of the Tibetans are in the same village come to help us to do, people line up to take bundle of the hands of all identity cards. We line up side edges and a small guard soldiers speak, and in Tibet, the majority of soldiers is Sichuanese the way the restaurants are mostly of Szechuan Restaurant, so language is not a problem. Small soldiers say that they still thought it was foreigners like you do, then my fellow Can insert a team? I asked him, and so we are routed to you all of the work. His younger brother also joined the lobby, next to Sichuan Province again a woman, she said come with me on, then walk into the office with his brother to go immediately. People fight over queue, though did not understand also know that we will not abide by the rules. I'm sorry, it is difficult to change bad habits from the civilized world to bring one. Within a short while his younger brother holding a card out of the border, and I thought I would not say a word. Bid farewell to the villagers to go on the street to eat, Shunbian Mai dry food, a little look at a few blocks left over, surprise, also available online, 8 yuan / hour. Roadside stalls have colorful paper wind horse flag, but also bought some, in turn mountains to the grandmother when. Tibetans on the streets to see there are different strains, different costumes, specific and it is not clear. Sugar for their cooperation in taking pictures, honest people with a smile Let us shoot and told them that le, (good luck) and the soil Kat its (thank you), the only of the two Tibetan, but enough, for those who Listen to me people will smile back to the same thing, they just smile and good, this is probably the Tibet lies its charm. My heart is here, you can see.
"1:00 to tha cheen can not find the car, his brother said, carry the big car. I would like to try one in favor of. Chairman, I do not carry the big car, why not clean and comfortable to ride go? He wanted to stay in this ride, I am looking for the coach and his younger brother. Asked the station to the Post, just a car. And the driver took a backpack after a good talking to and so on. A curious look at our Tibetan Grandpa that he and I looked at each other and finally gaze fell on a knife around his waist. Eight Gallery Street saw knives, I feel bad not to buy. There is the true in front of his younger brother up to talk to, with a smile Can you give us a look? Uncle took it down a bit in the first, and scabbard pattern ancient beauty of the blade is not sharp, but I love it. My brother asked sale? Began his shaking his head, then he think, pointing to the legs, legs, sick means to rule, to sell. My brother said he bought it eight gallery street no matter what the 50 is good, he wanted to help me talked about 50, out of the five fingers, uncle than a six, and we shook his head. So he walked away, I said, unfortunately, in fact, 60 do not worry, my brother said that he was funny you play do not seen he did not walk a longer distance? Sure enough, the car Tantoutannao look at it. I would go, he came again several times, or 50 after the three Fan sold me. Hide it properly. On the road of the most interesting thing is that these accidents and strangers. And we go to tha cheen the same car is a medium-affluent family, grandmother cab ride, young people and our crowded compartment. They account for a favorable position of the beds well. Me and my brother that the family package sitting on the left Qinghai named Wu and his dishes. It was motion sickness, the driver pulling tarp to prevent the car to open the back of a dust cover on the rush days come, I put down jacket hat, baseball cap, sunglasses were all wearing, useless. Asked his brother feel about that? Fortunately, because the car bumps a lot and clutching a rope tied like a package, like jumping on a horse jumping. Xiao Wu, but scolded non-stop, he sat in front of a Tibetan girl, and that the family did not know what relationship, but obviously see that she has no place in their eyes, and they sit separately, and were crowded, Xiao Wu, but also push Open, saying she was dirty, there are insect head. I patted her, let her sit in front of me, I was feet can not move soon numb. Unfortunately, the language barrier, could not tell her, and become more resolute, everything will be in the past. Cold night hit, relying on his younger brother heating. They have quilts clothes, we only wearing clothes. Xiao Wu from his side of the Tibetans who pulled the quilt cover, brother, to learn from him a little bit, and finally dragged coat completely over, we wrapped inside. Temperatures in the minus ten degrees, so cold, water is frozen, and according to her brother's arms, face began to fever. Relying on his warm and at ease, two fish, in the cold to each other, at this time warm enough. See the rise of Stars flash, we are whispering, those of Tibetans have been next to the good laugh, until I head into the overcoat is not out of Tibet. Middle of the night cars are not moving, and go find a house and tents parked on the roadside. Some people sleep on the roadside frost, the vitality is so strong. Flashlight careful not to step on the name of them, some people say to use a borrowed flashlight use, look at the past is the driver, walked with him a small room, the driver said, okay, go to bed! How so! We call up to Tian Han frozen, and you put everybody to sleep on the Diuju! No! dead lift him to his car, he would go back to the cab. Really funny, that type of driver. Overnight, morning and see something different under carriage, all dirty, Ashen, Xiao Wu, the food was horrendous Britain to understand why the food here is expensive, beloved brother of a button the camera bag was a bad one transversion At noon, to sit on the roadside shop, grandmother holding grandson, the young mother, pour butter tea bottle out to you, the driver poured two bowls of invites us to drink, small Hao foam noodle, it may not accustomed to, and the Tibetan people so close to drinking butter tea to see their meals, a little envious, my brother used to take, that his mother take a clean bowl upside down on the inside surface of highland barley mix with butter tea, the younger brother of tsampa to Ban Hao gave me. Sour tastes sweet, the Han people's stomachs can not digest, eat a bit on it. Tibetans have always smiling, looked at us, like conniving children.
"Gang Ren Bo Qi, Tibetan means" mountain of treasure. " According to legend, the Buddha Sakyamuni was still human, the guardian god of 10 parties, various Bodhisattvas, gods, human, Asura (ancient Indian mythology, a kind of evil spirit) and the heavens, the musicians are all gathered around in the holy mountains. A time when Year of the Horse, it has become the Year of the Horse Gang Ren Buchin years of Natal. Pilgrims are said to be the lap of Mt Xijin lifetime sin; Mt 10 laps in 500 suffer from reincarnation from hell; 100 laps of Mt Buddha ascended to heaven in this life; in the birth of Sakyamuni Year of the Horse Mt circle is equivalent to the 13 annual rings, a twelve fold increase of good deeds, Kamiyama Burang County is located in Ngari Prefecture, is Gandise mountain peak, elevation 6638 meters, the appearance is like a huge crystal diamond, surrounded by eight lotus-shaped group of mountain ranges around care, Xuefeng white crystal, as Saint. With the Tibetans call it "Our Lady of the Mountain" Gurla peak of 100 km distant away from the sea, between the two peaks is the holy lake Manasarovar Lake and Ghost Lake Laon wrong. The way the arrival of tha cheen eolian dust, located in the small village at the foot of Kamiyama has gathered a wide variety of colored races and tents. Go for a long time on the road has been too much and not accustomed to the sound. To Kamiyama Hotel (on the rows of houses) in this particular time has not been any empty room. Guest House in the open space on the bar, however a lot of tents, go look at the three camp beds, bed mats only, but also 60 a day. No way, who told we have no tents, and fond of outdoor activities, said the straight brother of his tent brings, because in tha cheen can see a distant lake, then I do not know it was a ghost lake, he said that if go camp, where more than good, ah, I go along. Villagers say that the village side of river is very clean, fetch water from there everyone drinking, but now come to so many people, leaving behind a lot of rubbish. Numerous riverside tents, Tibetans inside laundry, shampoo, and even toilet sight. We would have liked to see such a wash in the river could only retreat. Encountered chairman, to meet very happy. To his wife that dinner, and then borrowed a brush went to Ghost Lake. We do not know look in the vicinity of the Ghost Lake in fact go up very far, leaving tha cheen 200 meters back, sacred solemn wave of Qi in the mountains of the post-jen on the exposed mountain top, tha cheen become very, very small, a little voice can not hear. At the foot of the loess with the weeds, Ali's land, the wind swept along by spreading a mess, like come to Tianjin Tou. Jaded, and later think it may come to the stage, and went to clear a small river, the river there are numerous fish. There is not based on a flood of snow, so clear the water is safe to drink, my brother took out a small liquefied natural furnace burning in the back where the wind easily boiled rice, because I am a vegetarian, he also should not meat, put in rice and tofu , and then bubble the mixture of glucose and milk drinks. Lying on the grass eating picnic style so there is happiness, such as river fish, now suddenly have a feeling that I know what to say the following words of his brother, and indeed he immediately speak out, and shock, such as electric shocks. It feels very familiar, like the recently experienced the same thing, so in asking us when to come to it? He was not aware of my strange said of course not, are the first time. Is not the first time, the original thought that the Tibet is arbitrary, but it is Cheng pulls back, including the people and things encountered along the way, in the Qinghai-Tibet railway and Lhasa waste of time, and his younger brother met are doomed, the original I jumping around, and finally the fate of palm ... ... Zheng Butuo
"Back to tha cheen when the strong winds, a step a back, this fatalism where the river had to come over to drink its water. So go on like this, the past must come to, to go to let it go.
"Tempted to turn things on Piedmont, chairman of wife's shop. Start departure. Hill, many people do not need to turn to find a way, just walk behind a group of Tibetans. The result is wrong with them on a very high cliff, go up, I felt wrong, no one above. Montreal are the clothes, the atmosphere weird, as if there are stones on the blood coagulation, I am very sensitive person, brother, guess, and Tian Zangtai! The idea is not afraid, my brother took out cameras to film. And then go back to much trouble to go forward. So forward, down, steep and slippery cliff, followed by his younger brother climbed up and down Mianbugaise. Way kidding, thirsty to drink spring water. Those who say that saw Mt le! No people do not answer with a smile. Here before we hit the real side of Tibet. Lu-yu knock long head of the people, respectfully courteous, take sugar to them. Tibetans see the cook things in the past only to talk to, they have a friendly hint to sit back to drink butter tea. Drunk many times know more than before but good butter, which put a lot of good friends and saw empty to fill up the cup. I take rabbits to them, the language barrier can not prevent the feelings of harmony, surrounded by cow dung fire, and enjoyable. This scenario also occurred on the road several times, tired, went into a warm fire next to the Tibetans, and their exchange of food and a smile, instant noodles with butter tea foam.
"With the higher terrain to go up even more tired, backpack heavier. Younger brother, carrying a bag and camera bag mountain does not want to become his burden, followed behind him to go and refused to help me get something. Want to arrive before dark place to stay. At last the afternoon of the tower velvet Temple, elevation 4985 meters, just to see Gang Ren Bo Qi side. There streamer heap, many hada cabinets. Brother to take for others and his own hada also Guashang Qu, prostrate prayer. Seen on the road to Beijing and Kunming, mountain climbers have been stay there, and Kunming, admire my brother said the little girl for the first time in Tibet to turn on the mountain, but also their own backpack, great! His companion well-equipped, but also invited porter. This is normal, I just look at the limits of their own which can be indulgent to what extent. They stay out of tents on an empty solve my accommodation needs. To see the moon rising in the mountains, the warmth like old friends, why is peace of mind? Why am I not excited? Because in doing has been done thing?
"Ten o'clock the morning of departure. Front Zhuoma La Pass, elevation 5630 meters, the highest mountains on the way place. Proudly watched it pass away a little scared and I can go Ping Lu, climbing not work, but never back. Decided to rely on willpower to switch mountains, the spirit of such a tenacious but the flesh is weak, and gradually walk, feeling less than oxygen, but not strength, pace, step small. There is no road at night under the snow off the ground is muddy rocks, young and strong men whistling Tibetan jump-on, looked up his brother, on visual smile. He wanted to pull me away again refused. Bite the walk, a fall, well-meaning grandmother pulling me up, to the block of sugar, said the child slowly, wrinkled and also conceal the kind, thinking of his grandmother's, agreed to cooperate with his younger brother also wanted to switch to mountain Mt obtained reward to her. If she knows the state-owned days, no one will blame her death, when I did not go home. Nerves are numb, but was finally climbed up! Zhuo Mala Mani Dui pass on a huge streamer hung in the wind the sound of the crash, people put up their own competing streamer and hada, flying the flags of paper wind horse They cried the high, yeah Suosuo Suo,啦soso soso! excited cry and prayer deafening. White-haired old devout Kamiyama kowtow to the top of prayer, one by one the faces wrinkled contented smile. Inspired such a place, the wind scattered out of paper wind horse flag, no study has been told that they did cry out, I come! I do not go home when you call, you said I never see you on the go, I do not believe can be the overhauled Tianrenyongge! ... ... calm down and find a younger brother, he shot photos. Silently down the mountain, Tuoji measures also knot the ice, no one stays on the road the flow, people are all run down not stop the momentum. Brother said that there Tibetans to help him with the backpack, especially one little girl told him several times, he agreed that he took very impressed. To restore some strength to see my brother so hard for him to take the camera bag.
"Do not want to take off their shoes over a river, but not with the masses to cross the river walk along the river, thinking that there will be parts of the past, did not expect a wide rivers and large can not find a place in the past. They refused to turn back, hard to move forward, everyone had Shui up the mountains. Otherwise go back to his younger brother said that, I do not want, this time behind came a monk, his hands forward. Follow him, but he was too fast, and Yi Mei fluttering about disappearing in front. We followed the footprints, he said that he is not immortal. To encounter a place where no footprints in the river among the Tibetan people fetching water, curiously asked what the water in the past? Their gestures that the water is good, pointing to the body, which means drinking here and there all good and gave her a drink, there is rust taste, probably iron. Middle of the river a few stones, my brother looked a little hesitation, that the family have come to see if we have to cross the river, and the father and son should first backpack to take in the past, looking for bamboo articles to his brother, he stays later, to see if they move quick I would like to own In the past, the river rapids beat, the last piece of stone from the quite wide, and stopped and did not dare move, pull my son over the younger son with a smile behind them, only gently pull one I stood on shore. Looking back, almost could not believe. Once again deeply grateful.
"Back to the crowd, India and Nepal Christians to go counter-clockwise over the face, as well as foreigners insisted on alpenstock mixed among the crowd, always considered normal, and everyone is equal, what are the points inside and outside are equal. To have had some roads in the steep slopes, next to the river, if not carefully slip will fall from the high slopes of the river, walking very carefully. It was a crevice in the side of the road excavation, good people to imagine that this land is Aura, with that same river. Yamaguchi finally arrived at, as well as a few kilometers to tha cheen. And his younger brother chat, I know that time is running out together, he added a switch to lake, Xinjiang, with the go.坐在路边休息,昆明大哥又在前面,背着大大的包,爬山似闲庭散步般也不见多快却总在我们前面。弟弟若不带我,和他一起也会很快的吧。他向我们笑笑又散步似的走了。出山口发现有人在卖??百事可乐!这文明世界的象征才3元一支。虽然知道这里的东西贵,便宜一定不是好货,还是忍不住买了。两人举着可乐,象庆功酒一样豪气万千地干杯!果然假货,不过心情很好。还有卡车停在这里,去塔钦2元一个!众人纷纷上车。数公里而已,我们决定走完它,前面的辛苦都坚持下来,庆幸我们意见一致。已是晚上八点,走在灰土飞扬的荒野路上,远处夕阳如醉。希望时间停止。
> 回塔钦天已黑了。普兰县文化局来搞活动,搭了一百个帐篷,才20元一天,而且所有东西都是新的。没有电,服务员送来蜡烛。抖开床单和毛毯见上面印的是大红双喜,大笑起来。
> 在塔钦休息顺便找车去玛旁雍措。下午去找董事长义哥,他不在,去他哥哥值班室,弟弟忘了背后才叫董事长,他问董事长去哪了?我拼命忍着笑,董大哥没听出来,他说阿义不在。到处找车,弟弟假期有限不能待多久。终于和他争执,我说你一定先走,不和你转湖及去新疆。他说不服我。
> 上天一直在照看我,弟弟帮我找到三个徒步转湖的同伴。正坐地上发呆,听弟弟叫阿飞快来!过去看见一个大胡子,后面一个戴卷沿帽的家伙。大胡子第一眼给我的印象衣着虽褴褛,眼神却食草动物般的善良,想都不想说好的和你们走。戴卷沿帽的有点眼熟,他也认出我,是你!我们一起叫,在八郎学见过,想不到还是走到一起了,他姓田,后来叫他胡大。尼姑阿尼拉最后从房间里出来打量我一番。找同伴是她的主意,她不想和两个男子转湖,坚持再找个女孩,我,就是那个幸运儿。他们刚好两个帐篷,三个睡袋,住的问题又解决了。他们还找到车去霍尔,大家挤上车,商量徒步转湖的从霍尔开始,坐车转湖的饭后出发。霍尔的晴空下,我们象家人一样同桌吃饭,棕头鸥在头上飞来飞去,快乐尖叫。天下没有不散的筵席,车子再送了我们一程,和弟弟分开的时刻到了。弟弟把小液化炉留给我,我掏出那把刀送他。他对我的新同伴说,请照顾她,麻烦你们了。感觉到他真的难过,弟弟说再照张相吧…我笑得一派无忧,自己的胶卷不知有意无意,没有一张与他的合影。看他从此远走,想起仙剑里灵儿的一首诗:既不回头,何必不忘?既然无缘,何需誓言?今日种种,似水无痕。明夕何夕,君已陌路。
> 又开始新旅程。新同伴经观察和西游记的组合很相似。胡子大哥是虔诚的藏传佛教徒,今年也是他本命年,他侠义心肠,背最多最重的东西且身有绝技,是孙悟空。胡大喜欢吃喝,时不时要休息,象猪悟能。阿尼拉几乎什么都不做,到时就叫胡子大哥做饭,扎帐篷,她享受现成,早晚做功课,是唐僧。我什么都不会,受他们照顾,只知跟着走,十足无能的沙和尚。当然这些玩笑话只有自己知道。
> 玛旁雍措在神山东南26公里,周长84公里,水面积412平方公里。又称玛法雍措，藏语意为“永恒不败的碧玉湖”,是世界上最高的淡水湖。传说是特提斯海的女儿,与岗底斯雪山相爱,不幸被点化成湖泊,又有传说很早以前阿里贡居湖中有一条非常大的鱼,一次大鱼游到玛旁雍措里漂浮在湖面,仿佛母亲抱着的婴儿,至今藏族民间称它母亲怀抱中的碧玉湖,也就是说她是女性或母亲。
> 开始转湖大家也不知路，只是围着湖走，取水方便。其实也没路，走在草地上很累，脚踏上去不着力。一直就没什么好路，除了草地沙堆就是乱石,还要过河,不停脱鞋再穿上。好在四人都能吃苦。大哥说要有适应过程,下午很早就把帐篷搭好了,离我们营地不远的是尼泊尔人花花绿绿的帐篷,他们穿一点点衣服往湖里冲,不好意思再看。
> 独坐湖边,碧蓝沉静的湖水清如眼波,小鱼儿水中嬉戏，白云和雪山倒映湖面,恍若天堂。母亲,终于来到你身边,为何心中悲伤不能自抑?湖水轻柔地拍起浪花,最爱的蓝色,多想沉入这片蓝色里永不归来,安睡在母亲怀里……感觉大哥在不远处看着,轻轻叹息,与大哥同行不知幸与不幸。
> 大家都想到湖里洗澡,又怕冷。佛教徒认为：玛旁雍错的湖水是来自神山的融雪,是圣水,是胜乐大尊赐给人类的无上甘露,用此湖水净身能清除人们心灵上的“五毒”（贪、嗔、痴、怠、嫉）,灵魂得以洗礼。饮湖水可祛除百病强身健体。朝圣者如绕湖转经,可得功德无量。大哥和胡大要找牛粪走开了。他们离开后我和阿尼拉试着到湖里去,很冷,不敢象尼泊尔人那样冲进去,就掬水洗脸,同岗仁波齐的山泉一样甘洌清甜。晚上煮东西,让我欣喜的是,大哥和我一样吃素,不用担心不方便。每次做饭,他先给胡大和阿尼拉煮好有肉的再煮我们没肉的。 (阿尼拉是尼姑,她吃肉前念咒,有没有用我不知道)。湖边有四个门：东为莲花门,西为垢浴门,南为香甜门,北为信仰门,大哥要在每个门打水回去给家人朋友,所以背了一大箱矿泉水瓶。饭后阿尼拉焚香念经,大哥和胡大为宗教争吵,胡大是汉人,在新疆多年差不多维化了,他既不赞成伊斯兰教也不赞成佛教,我们这三个都是佛教徒,此后路上,为吃素和宗教等问题吵个不休。这晚久久睡不着。
> 第二天精神都还好,四个人拉开走。希望和他们分开,好有单独在湖边的时间,可大哥不管在我前面还是后面总是注意我的动静。中午休息又坐湖边发呆,大哥在不远处说,真想好好地痛哭一场,让我的心活过来。知道他明白了我的心情,正午明媚的阳光下,玛旁雍措变幻着不同的蓝,那木纳尼永远保持着欲离开岗仁波齐的姿态。棕头鸥无忧无虑地在水面上飞舞,歌唱,幸福的鸟儿你歌唱吧,千年的时光只不过你歌声里一刹那啊!
> 下午突然刮起大风,根本不能行走。立刻找地方扎营,很快就下大雪,大哥很担心,帐篷都不太结实,如果雪大的话被埋了都没人知道。我坦然无惧。早上醒来感到很冷,帐篷真的塌了,雪溶化成水顺着脸流下来,我的耳朵冻坏一点。还好都活着,出来看见天地都白了,只有不远处的圣湖仍骄傲地冷静幽独。大哥说你唱了一晚的歌,可我没唱歌啊?他说,你几乎睡着就打呼噜,我担心雪把大家埋了都睡不着,你倒唱着无忧的歌。不好意思,太累了。收拾东西出发,我走最前面。二十分钟后把他们丢在后面很远,天青地白,苍茫之间唯我驻足,一切不复存在,终于明白前不见古人,后不见来者,念天地之悠悠,独苍然而涕下!原来天地造物之伟大,再无可让我觉得长久永恒的事物,开始明白母亲要我知道的东西。
> 遇到几个转湖的喇嘛见我们四个汉人也转湖很惊讶,阿尼拉给他们钱和食物,我和他们照相,这些表情单纯的朋友与我站成一排,洗出来的相片只有我的脸白一点。晚上休息放下背包竟不适应,虽说在这海拔4587米的地方空手都相当于平地拿40斤的东西,但习惯天天背包,好象这样才能平衡。一路上有很少数藏胞和喇嘛转湖，不少人坐着车转。我们常常在听到身后汽车的声音时自动走到边上让路，一车藏胞都满脸惊奇地看着我们,我向他们挥手,胡大却骂他们的车带来很多尘土。当然也有尼泊尔人,印度人和老外的车,除了这些就只有母亲的微笑,轻轻地微笑,轻轻地波浪,却不容接近。
> 经过四个寺庙。有三个佛教徒,逢庙必进,见佛必拜。胡大无奈地跟着不停埋怨。有座悬崖上的庙我几乎上不去，大哥让胡大替我拿包他拖着我走。我们在寺里要开水泡方便面,大哥带我拜佛献哈达,告诉我每座佛像的来历和故事。有老外好奇地四处参观,寺里喇嘛拿出据说可治百病的灵丹妙药,我们都不动心,老外很欢喜地掏腰包买了。中午阳光很强,埋头走路衣服被汗湿了,不敢脱。抬头见太阳周围有一圈很美的光晕,五彩的光环,阿尼拉说这是少见的圣迹.我想可能是空气折射的原因,不过给人感觉还是神圣而怪异。经过一个山坡看见上面有野天鹅,同时发现人造的山洞,用石块垒成,只留一小小的口。阿尼拉又说那就是修行者密修的山洞,常人都不知如何上去。可能因为累,我双手浮肿,手套都戴不进。走到一个石头建成不知何用途的建筑物,进去看还有房子的规模,面对湖的那边有许多刻着经文的石头,石堆上还有个牦牛头骨。把它拍下来,石堆上的牦牛头骨,背景是圣湖。后来知道,无意中又和弟弟相遇了,头骨是他放上去的。拍完后胡大说头骨他要带走,我不许,两人小小地吵起来。大哥过来平息争吵,他叫胡大不要胡闹,胡大翻出糖和饼干大吃一通,又说口渴把大哥替家人带的水喝了两瓶,我为大哥生气,因为是从已走过的不同地方打来的,大哥示意算了。胡大发现我们的垃圾袋在他背包上挂着又火了(一路走来,所有垃圾都被我和大哥捡起来放在垃圾袋里)。我过去和他吵,他激动地叫,你们这些佛教徒,环保主义者!大哥再次来劝,当然不会真的动气。斜着眼看我几次后,他叫我小辣椒。午饭是面饼和午餐肉方便面。大哥让阿尼拉和胡大先吃,胡大吃了一点就把整个肉罐头丢了,理由：太油腻。猪八戒!我在心里说。阿尼拉矜持地吃了点面也给倒了,丢下碗筷做她的功课,我和大哥啃面饼。最后收拾残局的也是大哥。四个人象个小小的人类社会反映出不同的类型。晚上阿尼拉和胡大吵架,她是广州人,现在持英国护照,为这个路遇武警时她有点紧张,胡大却开玩笑对武警说我们中有外国人。他们吵得很厉害,阿尼拉更口吐脏话,大哥在两人之间来回劝解。胡大一直帮阿尼拉背帐篷,这下把它丢到地上扬长而去。我忙去捡,大哥却先抢过去,他想照顾我,可他已背很多东西,胸前还挂着水,我怎么争也争不过,阿尼拉看我们争冷笑着也走了。这下午的路好象特别长。很惭愧不能帮大哥做什么,他却总是乐呵呵的说不要在意,他们的言行只能伤害自己,你看圣湖多美,湖边还有那木纳尼,一路看着它们走,一生之中难得几次。晚上找地方搭帐篷,本来选好一个山坡,大家把帐篷拿出来才发现山坡上有群野狗虎视眈眈,我对它们叫小狗乖乖,大哥说这些野狗比狼还凶,于是掉头就跑。可惜开始捡的干牛粪也没带走。
> 这天可以回霍尔了,上午阿尼拉独自在前面走得很快。我们三人在后面,路边的杂草丛很多小虫飞出来,象蚊蚋,又不吸血,黑压压地往脸上扑。胡大戏称是阿尼拉使的法术。赶上她时她与藏民在一起,说不走了要坐车回塔钦。我们把东西还给她,骄傲的阿尼拉再见都不说就离开。看来用唐僧比喻她不恰当。仍要感谢她帮了我,只是今天一定要回到霍尔,否则没法住。经过一座小山, 上面有寺庙,大哥说那就是即乌寺,我早想去那住,在湖边待段时间,可转湖必需要转满一圈才圆满,就是说我要回到霍尔才算一圈,挣扎的厉害,又不愿半途而废。下午心情很坏,休息时突然又有和弟弟在河边的感觉,我知道大哥和胡大接下来要说什么话,果然他们说了出来,沮丧地不能言语。上天再次告诉我,逃不开宿命。越走越累,积压的坏情绪爆发出来,放声大哭。大哥和胡大围过来问是不是累了?胡大要帮我背包,哭着甩开他。大哥说让她哭去。发狠似的走,过河鞋也不脱就冲过去。半小时后平静下来,非常惭愧,很少在人前发脾气,感谢他们包容!胡大说你们关内女子脾气真怪,平时好好的,发起脾气象魔鬼。大哥为了让我高兴一点说他还有一个大瓶的百事可乐,我们走到前面的大石头那就分来喝。胡大一听很开心,他马上加快速度,我却想起转山结束时和弟弟喝过的那瓶。他在哪?他好吗?其实我不喜欢可乐这类饮料,但在这些路上喝的却让我觉得很好,从此把它当成一种胜利的慰问品。
> 看到远处一点白色的东西,应该是霍尔。往那方向走时不知从哪冒出两条大狗,虽不是藏獒,看它们凶猛的样子也差不多了,大哥马上拿出一段未端绑着石块的绳子甩动着,胡大让我躲在他背后,他甩着水壶,两条狗惊天动地地狂叫,蠢蠢欲动,要命的是我们都没力气。五分钟后一个藏族妇女才跑来喝住它们,天啊,最后一点力气也没了。好象走到牧场里,四处是牛羊,可能随处都有狗埋伏着,不敢停留。
> 回到霍尔象回到天堂。晚上住在藏族人开的小店里。商量行程,大哥还要转山十次,胡大回新疆,他们都要先到塔钦。我说想去即乌寺,大哥说我明白你为什么来,希望你待几天就回来,你是个聪明孩子。其实这几天都有机会离开他们,但我知道大哥在关心我,在这出任何事都会连累他们,不愿意。去即乌寺一个人很困难,要经过那片牧场,或者搭车。总找不到车,连去塔钦的车也没有,三人坐在路边任来往的闲人看。胡大说这里离湖近可能有鱼,圣湖的鱼吃了很补,不!大哥和我叫,旁人说什么不,我们都去打。可这是圣湖啊!那又如何,金珠玛米用炸药炸呢。这是我们的母亲啊。想起一路上人活动过的痕迹,狮泉河堂而皇之招小姐的广告,转山路上的垃圾,塔钦的小河……等青藏铁路建好后,人来得更容易,西藏还能保留它的原貌吗?我的母亲湖还能如此清澈宁静吗?
还是想去湖边。可是找到一个小货车后没多久它又坏在路上了。再次回到霍尔,大哥还在墙根下坐着,向他们跑去。胡大说老天不让你去即乌寺。还能怎样,母亲让我平安转湖,把她的阳光,风雪,她的幽蓝给了我,母亲说虽生如白驹过隙,还是要走完整个过程,不可强留此地。又住一晚。早上拦到回塔钦的车,已坐了9个人的小货车硬塞下我们3个。离开她,把这颗蓝色的泪滴珍藏心底。
> 这次算扛小厢,和两个藏族兄弟挤在小小的车厢里,我和大哥坐最外面,腿在车外晃荡。胡大盘踞在装牛粪的袋子上,象国王坐在他的宝座上。少不了的是尘土,又和大哥一起心情好点,看到来去的车不管人家听不听得见,都大叫扎西德勒!后面的藏族兄弟就大笑。到检查站停车检查,凡有车过去,我都叫并挥手,藏胞笑个不停。最后一部车我忘了,他们却叫起来,扎西德勒!这次换我笑。请他们唱歌,他们不懂,于是我唱东边的草地上啊金拉索,他们懂了,两人合唱起来,很优美的男中音,旋律悠扬宛转,我大力鼓掌。只有胡大不以为然,他说新疆人更会唱。可能是吧,我更珍惜人与人之间这种情谊,从送我去火车站的公司司机,到军人朋友,索兰措,蔡先生,弟弟,大哥,胡大……没有他们,我不会一直平安顺利。祈祷他们一生平安!
> 回塔钦又没的住,大哥带我们到藏羚羊公司的办事处。实在对它厌恶,它的车老是坏,浪费乘客时间,床铺肮脏不堪,管理不善。大哥说阿飞你一声不响跑出来让家人担心,现在去给家里打电话。乖乖去打,姐姐听到我声音马上哭了,不怪你了,回来过端午节吧。打完电话出来又下雪,人们躲进屋子里,我独自在空地上旋转,这神山下的雪,洁白的祝福让我独享,何能有幸!希望我思念的人能感觉到,同一片天下的你我都不是孤独的!晚上胡大带着睡袋睡车上,我和大哥与司机们打地铺。睡在一屋男人中间亦无忧无惧,他们知道我独自转山转湖都很佩服,而且有大哥一起什么都不怕。第二天早上,大哥说我又唱歌了。他的脚没好不能开始转山,不能劝他,明白他的执着与追求。不想走青藏线,胡大说那从新藏线回去。
> 再次告别大哥,留下对神山圣湖的怀念。又到狮泉河,找到去叶城的新疆货车。要经过的路是:日土,乌江多玛,松西,界山大阪,甜水海,泉水沟(死人沟),奇台大阪,红柳滩,康西瓦大阪,三十里营房,黑卡大阪,麻扎,麻扎大阪,库地大阪,叶城,途经昆仑山口和岗底斯山脉十来个海拔5000以上积雪山口,含氧量为海平面的60%,全长1100公里才150元/人。到班公湖下车去湖边照相,鸟岛没时间去。想着检查站会登记所有来往者的资料我就一个劲翻登记本,找不到弟弟名字,司机怕得罪武警硬把我拉走了。喀喇昆仑山脉很雄伟,山体大部份是苍黑色的,突兀如怒发冲冠的刀剑,但不知它缘何愤怒?开始下雪,很快飞雪漫天,能见度只有2米,路仍很差。不久风雪停了,路边可见到汽车轮胎和零件这类东西,看来没走完这条路的车不少。经过一个不知名的湖泊看到黑颈鹤,司机不停车,怅然而过。之后两次看到藏羚羊,都是六只一群,瘦瘦小小的,看到车就飞快地向山里跑去。
> 经过6700米的界山大阪(新疆和西藏的分界点),下车在界碑边拍照纪念。已习惯在高海拔的地方活动,司机好心地劝我不要跑,还是跳个不停。到死人沟之前司机说那里的人很可怕,长年氧气不足,他们的脸,嘴唇,指甲都是紫色的,我说那就不去吃饭。到了才知是哄我玩,所有人都正常,不正常的是乌鸦,奇大无比,又肥又懒,如未日法官都坐在电线杆上。饭店有几只鸡,还没乌鸦一半大。新疆司机要吃大盘鸡,很想对老板说不如把乌鸦杀了可做多两盘,怕被人骂不敢说。在这里吃了路上吃过最好的醋溜白菜。从死人沟出来胡大打瞌睡,我也有睡意,一路坐车只要天是亮的都会看窗外,现在居然有睡意,心生警惕努力坚持。在麻扎差点遭遇车祸,公路随山势盘旋,一辆新疆牌照的货车突然从对面冲来,两车快撞上时我们的司机急打方向盘,那部车差点掉下山去,所有人都从座位上跳起来,睡意全消。青藏及新藏线有个规矩是遇见军车必须要让，过去不少军车队，有次见首长车里的上校抱着氧气袋，我心生骄傲。
> 从麻扎下来进入叶城,气温升高,空气中水份多了,感觉肺叶张开,鼻血也止住了。途中下车吃饭,照例又是四川饭店,老板问我,你是什么族?这句话怪怪的,原来我没用防晒霜,除了被眼镜遮蔽的眼睛,脸全黑了,加上这些天只有吃,住,行,没其它欲望,性格中的狂野不羁表现在神情上,难怪他以为我是少数民族。我笑说是藏族,叫兰措。换上夏天的衣服,没停留就去和田。新疆因为地域的关系比北京时间晚两小时,晚上十点太阳还高挂着。一路追随的雪水汇成河流灌溉着这片土地,天空没有西藏那么蓝,阳光仍明媚,公路旁都是高高的白杨,路边有人的地方就有凉床,老人,妇女和小孩都坐在上面,看着很适意。这时又发生一件有趣的事,快到民丰县时司机停车说车坏了要修,反正一路上都习惯车坏,我下去玩。没想到等了很久,胡大说其实他们做礼拜去了,这里随处都有礼拜堂。果然车上的维族人都不见了。等得不耐烦去路边的村庄,绿树荫里的屋子全是树枝编成,没有片瓦,房顶仅仅用草盖上,不敢随便入内,站在一户门口,一个光屁股小孩儿在砸早熟的核桃,他看到我也不害怕就给他照了两张相。我很注意有没有美女,视线内的女子无论什么年纪都戴头巾,穿裙子。胡大说伊斯兰教规定女人必须戴头巾穿裙子,象我这样在新疆乱窜又衬衣仔裤的是异类。在和田住天鹅宾馆,服务员是维族女孩,认识胡大,她悄悄问他,我是不是维族?想不出维族名字逗她玩,又说是藏族。这里物价便宜,用西藏吃一餐饭的钱就能吃很好的东西,只是肉类为主,我吃素让他们不能理解。经过清真寺,匆匆进去参观了一下,想象不出人们礼拜的情景。胡大带我去玉石街,早就知道和田著名的特产是玉。在新藏线看到有人用马和驴驮成堆的山石,胡大说可能从五吨石头里也淘不出一块好玉,运气好的话可能一下就找到了。山何其无辜,就为有玉,被人为地破坏,而人的欲望永不满足。玉石街名不虚传,其实不想来这里,购买是支持采玉,但想想为我担心那么多的姐姐,她一直想有块玉……买了两块水滴形的白玉,温润淡雅,有一点瑕疵。去很多卖刀具的店没找到合适的英吉沙刀,有点遗憾。这里水果论公斤卖,正好杏子上市,买了几斤,味道很好,杏仁也能吃,维族女孩笑说我是只吃素的野猫。
> 坐车经过塔克那玛干去库尔勒。没水的地方也没绿色,虽是沙漠公路却看不到沙,窗外一片戈壁荒漠,小小的旋风迂回不已,公路右边就是分隔西藏和新疆的岗底斯山脉,想着前几天还在那里,满心怅惘。整车的乘客除我和胡大都是维族人,放着维族歌曲。没看到心目中的美女,胡大说,维族未婚女孩苗条健美,结婚后不外出工作,只管家务和生小孩,很快肥胖臃肿。她们的眉毛和眼睛都很美,睫毛长而卷,眼珠黑亮,在那如帘的睫毛下掩着神秘的目光。想和她们交谈却感到不舒服,我的胃,膝部都有问题,在西藏无论是风雪中行走还是不定时的三餐都没事,到新疆一直紧绷的弦放松了,或是吐鲁番盘地的海拔低,心悸,胃部抽搐,耳膜一阵阵地痛。隐忍,蒙头大睡。
> 到库尔勒还是清晨,胡大要回乌鲁木齐,我去库尔勒火车站,他说小辣椒保重,有时间去珠峰徒步!笑着挥手再见。转身从晨练的老人那问到去火车站的方向。这个城市和内地的中等城市差不多,买好晚上去西安的票到市区闲逛。感觉不出在新疆,全国大多数城市都同化了,看起来都没自己的特色。为家人买水果之类的特产。进站时车站的维族保安检查包,他翻我日记时被拒绝,便以此为借口不让我进,想发脾气又忍住,我解释说是私人东西他又让我进去了。
> 想着要回家却没欣喜,身体累,精神也累,以后是可预知的平静生活,趴窗边发呆。看铁路旁的野花,飞快的速度看不清它的模样,叶子修长,开深紫色花朵,不知它有没有快乐。
> 到西安也是早晨,不能作多停留。买好票把包存在车站，带上相机,有5小时参观西安。翻出地图坐公车来到鼓楼。时间太早,管理员说不能上去,坐路边看老太太跳舞,拍第一缕阳光照到鼓楼上,群燕飞舞,再去不远的钟楼,晨钟暮鼓的成语起源于此。每年新年日本人会包下寒山寺给他们的人敲钟，希望不会在这里发生。按地图来到清真大寺,时间早,又不让进。真遗憾。顺着墙走,在刚开门的工艺品店买兵马俑和农民画，还有钗，不知是不是玉环失落的那只?来到一条副食街,看到当地居民去一家小吃店也跟进去。要了素包子和稀饭,没想到包子极大,包的粉条和酸菜,老板还送上一碟醋,一只大肥猫在脚下打转。再搭公车去大雁塔。当年金榜题名,天下皆知,塔底第一层的入口处刻着某年某乡某某中进士,能把名字刻在这里应是多有成就的事。同众游客爬楼梯,走到第六层已全身无力,快撑不下去了。回来坚持着上城墙,正午只有我在徘徊,回避现代建筑，遥想盛唐当年,开放的风气吸引来各地人物,空前繁华,被李白们吟着唱着朝思暮想的长安，多向往啊……突然一阵昏眩,手里的袋子掉在地上,被我当成自己的马摔碎了。和西安缘尽于此。
> 回家!父母搬了家我找不到,打电话叫爸爸来接,前后一个月零三天时间,经过一万多里路,却找不到自己的家门,独自微笑。我知道,这段路结束,新的路将开始。
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作者：qjggmm
