"My love-hate Aden"
She sat on a low wall street with stones piled on the road on the left is the classic red Daocheng grasslands and Huang Shulin, and she pointed at my side pockets side and another two take their children of the women said with a smile, voice, vague is unclear, seems to be surprised in my pocket a big look. She smiled both hearty and innocent, but if there were several women, unique to conceal and introverted, just with a particular hairstyle her hair loosely in a bunch of rolling down a ramp to the right a very loose braids, neck pink scarf tied around her, hanging a string of bright beads. I stood beside her a little while, like a photo with her desire to particularly strong, just boss walked over, asked her photo, she was also candid camel, they agreed to conceal a smile when the eyes look to the Quartet's feelings are particularly vivid, her face slightly red, and Jia prominent chin a bit sharp, I helped shoot a good boss, the boss quickly requested a photo shoot for us, that moment I suddenly felt that she was really beautiful, she really have that kinds of difficult trek I would like to pursue after the journey to the kind of America, boss pressed the shutter, and that moment, in this beautiful entry Inagi, although the journey with extreme fatigue, but a trace of excitement and moved by the integration of the into a calm, and slowly helped me to open the door to enter the Inagi ... ...
(1) My brothers and sisters when the boss came in, we are in the hotel lobby couch waiting for him, three of them should be the latest set of 12 individuals arrived in Chengdu, the aircraft would be no delays to eat more for depriving the to a decent dinner. Boss look very different and I imagine his voice calm and dry refining the tone of let me imagine him as a robust and tall appearance, although the fact that there is a large gap between appearance, but then the whole hard After the trip, I naturally accept the reality, this is a really worthy of our trust boss. Were also in the hotel lobby, when, where they send Quwang airport car, that moment, with the Ya-li, and Juan-Juan hugging, shaking hands with the boss, and Wang Jian, if it is thought they have said donkeys were the The bag quietly carry the weight of the poly-dispersed, it seems to me they're all orbital damp, would like to send a message to tell his boss Quwang the airport road, but eventually hold back, then had to endure arduous journey down, and And with more joy to suffer down, what is there is not help the bargain.
But boss into to the hotel where the identification of the time, we can not help but smile, and he the donkey head, gave us identify anti-, and he pointed to the water Lin says that I am also sure that because of seeing my identity card, and then pointed at her, said she, pointing to her, she said, but fortunately has not arrived yet, pointing to his and pointed at her she was his point. But I obviously some mistake, to the hotel later, I would hold the list have been living in a hotel would let people who contact it, or the first contact a man more convenience, Pine Valley, ah, but the receiver came across is that a female voice, she told me after a few words of courtesy 'Shui-lin' also come, I was thinking about how to be that the woman ah, or make a phone call to contact it, wow thiophene, baritone ... ...
But the pleasant sound of water alone is more than one person Lam, everyone's voice is full of features, I did not know her younger sister had never been seen in her silver bell-like voice announced her clever and able, although they are still Sophomore students, Chengdu has become the inside should be the local Terrific put a lot of things are arranged quite good; there is Pine Valley that need to be translated to Mandarin, and she put it more difficult when I feel the more flavor, Return Journey in Danba and the boss Kanjia scene makes me the most memorable; from Zhuhai A Ten, she was like calling someone's name really naive; Huang was full of sound, her wandering love reading when the sound extremely beautiful, full of writing these sentence the person, that is, I want that feeling; Jian Wang, and Ya-li's voice are so suitable, simple and honest and light-wan, a sonorous, with gentle, mutual linger a long time without a break; HAOKU of the Juan-Juan, began to would also like to maintain the mystery, but she was nicely accompanied by the voices of men and women who make pure envy of the scripts on the star to make some time to become her speech Session; Finally, little brother, my first day and he sat Finally, patient to tell him what kind of song for him what kind of song is not suitable for him, because his voice is not enough light, etc., but do not want last night in the K room, the interpretation of his songs are very exciting, but can not find any sound defects, not like a broken gong drum is also not bad, alas, appears to be the beginning of my lack of hearing on bar. Therefore, very often are not able, with some visual things to judge a person, Dumb is the best example, in the car, she is almost silent, but in Danba, so full of Tibetan-style bar, she has always insisted the Tiaoatiaoa, ... ...
Really want to go there to come back to the Qing Wei Danba full bar, watching Big Brother boss and that the Tibetan dance with pride and satisfaction, but also want to return to Aden residential campfire向那epigenetic studies of Tibetan dance Guozhuang, really want to listen again sound, let's let him look around how many people, reading aloud together at the dinner before the "street of love" ... ...
But should not everyone will go to miss everyone's voice, Huang Towards the end of the journey to us tell you a solemn fact, along the way, sitting behind her how excited Debu Shuilin sleep from time to time to remind her attention look at both sides of the great beauty of the spectacular, but the voice sounded every time her head will be about water, forest shoot, originally thought it was a goodwill gesture, but until then, water, forest only tell the truth, because Huang Yi Miqi Several of the sub is too high ... ...
High Huang, her dedication to carrying a tripod, and sometimes left to imagine that those who can not touch the beauty of the shuttle and busy in the icy gray Temple of Gore Peak, in the simplicity of the Tibetan family attic where, in the Danba valley beside rivers, at the entrance of the red grass Inagi, she also became the best scenery. Huang Ping, but not everyone as mesmerized as photography, Juan-Juan and the Arab-Ten did not even bring the camera, I think they are the heart and mind is in the photo is a wonderful and carved a happy excited soft hard an instant, ... ...
Anyhow, the heart will carry memories of those happy, whether or not eternal, at least be accompanied by some distance, regardless of whether it will bear in mind that everyone is eager to cherish. Really want to pull everyone's hand again, I am happy brothers and sisters, with whom we work, is kept trained on us, experiencing the pain and bold, that choice and fear, that courage and mutual assistance, and that strong and hope ... ...
(B) that the dog Mountains October 1.
Although the first night after the boss has also brought a collection of them and several local old Mix to play late into the night to go clubbing, but we still get up at five o'clock as planned. Although this first night felt uncomfortable but did not go clubbing with them, but slightly more sleep than they are some of the difficulties I have to get up, still feel very uncomfortable. Very nervous the first day of the trip, because Erlang Mountain Tunnel pairs into single-out constraints, we have the original Link which necessitated the temporary change to when you have to go Siguniangshan here, but the evening rush xinduqiao to live away from the really Some far.
Days is also dark with each other is also some strange and can not relax our journey began. Dawn, when we have gone through Dujiangyan, a few of the Yingxiu, although some of the traffic congestion began to divert to Jiuzhaigou, where we have this road has been very smooth. A pale green water began to accompany us, seems full of life journey.
Overcast sky and allows everybody to some unfinished sleep, breakfast before and after the time we are all very silence. As Huang Chun master drive to bring everyone into the mountains into the United States, and some enthusiasm for the journey started a little bit of surface. The auspices of boss is a genius, he has in this respect of capital, first of all he has a torrent of mouth, which we judged the mouth there is a unique feature film particularly suitable for the shape, then he has the inherent right journey the passion, and then he has the unqualified hearty ho mentality, so he started over from the beginning we introduce themselves, pro-and the atmosphere began to ripple in this though has not been a big backpack filled with filled with the Iveco the warmth of the car.
It was suggested that began to sing, and it seems that time just bright days, those hazy mountains in our field of vision. We agreed to sing a national anthem! This is our entire journey, one of the best chorus, those mountains, if heard, will feel our heartfelt love for these mountains and rivers, it would give me to make a proof of bar! Then, so the sun in the morning shadow of cloud on the break to give us a burst of cheers! The cool and bright light in the sun playing on the roadside rivers and hillside forests on the mountains early autumn color changes began to appear exceptionally brilliant colors and thousands of plants showing the distribution of the atmosphere, coupled with blue days and white clouds ... ...
Mountain begins to move forward, and upward, and we rushed a high-altitude Balang Shan, the Peak, we are down, wow, instant, I suddenly felt unusually cold, I am prepared to walk a few steps trying to find a good angle went to shoot a few photographs, because the mountain to the valley below it looked set in the mountains winding back the feeling is indescribable beauty of both shocked again, but this time they threw a halo head almost Zaidao hastily back to the car Think about this day, most of the clothes are still stuffed backpack ready to gradually add a few days later, but do not want to wear too little the first day of some miscalculations, but only the first way, and good news is there is bright sunshine accompanied by we have come to live laughter.
Emotion at a cat's nose to reach the first climax.
Blue sky, white clouds, and disappeared when the peaks are the four girls have become a scramble for the perfect photograph of the office. This is our murder film or digital memory at first. That mountain is really beautiful, Seiitsu handsome, yet mysterious, in order to surf the clouds set the best rely on, in the time dimension, becoming one scene of mountains and rivers of that cool and bright and eye-catching first gift of this journey.
The man, that Tibetan eldest sister, but also appeared at this time. I am also busy taking pictures, she advised me to come to the roadside to eat after finishing her string of yak and lamb dishes, you can also send me a few well-known small apples. The reason why I remember her because she told me to be 'fat brother'. This has never heard of the call that moment made me feel curious and interesting, I promise her that I would buy her after finishing the dishes, of course, then she really give me a little golden apple, with Jisi funny, She described listening to A Ten New Year's by a line of people to Siguniangshan lived, we have come has grown to arrange the first lunch.
Ya-off after at this time spit, and also fully indicates that more than two days following her painful journey, at such a high counter at any time of the place where, together with motion sickness, it is really, very tough. However, Ya-li is lucky, not only because of Wang Jian has been meticulous care of her, but also because after three days of painful suffering, she was the destination of this trip scenic fundamental improvement in Aden, which is what real happiness after the pain ah, that moment I really, really envious of Ya-li. The Ya-li which has since restored the joy and vitality, giving everyone a pleasant journey to add more memories ... ...
The afternoon walk through a beautiful valley known Danba, where it has been followed by our clear rapids of the other side of the confluence of some of the black muddy river, a long black and white waters also insisted on a confrontation, but the helpless had to flow to the south, from shoulder to shoulder to completely embrace, it is well-known Dadu River ah.
And then to the later in the afternoon, I finally beat it, has been sitting behind a row, in such a mountain road, although some cold uncomfortable I really could not bear significant bumps, so I sat down the front of a a small stool, the stool seems that the poor are likely to collapse at any time, but it did not collapse, perhaps the way of our happiness infected with it, it has also insisted on death to span the last four legs upright. Although this ride very tired, but the vision is very broad, but the next few days I spent most of the time this is the case, it is tough, but it can be the first time to all-round way the colors suffered roadside landscape and the level of rotation of strange beauty.
Kamiyama is such a wonderful scene in the front appear. Sun has been stuck back in the distant mountains behind, but in front of us, but there's a magic mountain, near the peaks and ridges on both sides are dark, forming a V-shaped, blue sky in the evening Liang hold up the sacred context where snow-capped mountains, and the golden sunset light scatter on the snow-capped mountains of the jian, that moment, to hear, see, feel, are cheering. Accompanied by hail, is that the first full day of the second抢拍climax. Then as the car to go any further, I suddenly saw the side of the rolling mountains, due to high altitude did not grow any tree, but it happened to be the setting sun above the mountain the whole Ying, golden, and that the mountain seems to strongly suck the sunset colors, and the following have been dark, in stark contrast to the plateau at the moment extremely impulsive, yellow master car just a stop, I will be rushing body lying on his side of the window抢拍, roadside multicolored streamer static at the moment Geostationary feel the rhythm of the wind, but also waiting for the sky was bright and the stars appeared one by one ... ...
Gradually dark days, passing the public grassland tower unclear when we have to see what the scenery. 22:00 and more cars in the full emotional singing of singing in antiphonal style, and then stay the night, we finally came to the location, also known as the photographer, was the paradise xinduqiao. And the day's lunch, as dinner, the same could not leave any special memories, as if everyone is tired and faint not comfortable being spent in a second floor after eating a small hotel ready to sleep.
There are more than 3000 of the altitude, my heart beat very fast. I settle down in the house briefly and then prepare for a visit to the toilet and then to bed. Came down on the first floor of the entrance at dark and for some people wash something, I also went to the toilet where she was asked, pointing at her side to tell me the distance in front of the wall than the distance would always go, I At that time can not help but somewhat surprised that this little hotel Putonghua is also quite good woman washing dishes, side headlight tune into the thought flashed a beam straight ahead.
That the dog appeared at this time.
Look at other small dogs, it appears to me the first night of sleep fragmentation abomination, completely shut down by the first day that I would like to adjust their own health plan. In fact, when I arrived had heard the barking of dogs, but not too much attention, but this time, and that soon as the dog was not called me while barking the edge flutter over, his mouth has touched my legs, because I Kaiyuan headlights simply did not see the street light shadow of the dogs, I ah to soon as screaming, suddenly jumped to the side of good far away, "how it is here, dog!."
"I have just been that dog to threaten, but forgot to tell you," then women also formed and began washing dishes, and God, the original is our huangping just how not hear out of this moment the whole turmoil, the already crazy heart jump, this time for those dogs is not their own back room, lying in bed, a long time could not sleep, listening to roommate's boss to find a cold Yao Chi early years together, listening to a few people next door up big early early cried cried out ... ...
The same situation was also that woman washing dishes. But also because that dog. She finished the day's travel diary after hearing roommate's A Ten to fall asleep after some exaggerated breathing, in the fear with this rhythm at the same time, there was news out of the window intermittent dogs barking, and she slept the night. Of course, these are the only known the next day, but the next day when they finally figure out that women are not washing dishes female, nor Huang, but that the poor Pine Valley ... ...
(C) She was sitting on a low wall on the side of the road October 2.
No light from my bedside a small window in time to play house in, we have been next door to a group of early Ming miles uproar spoke words of people to Naoxing, felt faint bulge of the head, set teeth, since ... ...
Gradually in the days when the car lights out xinduqiao, and then the valley has been the top plate to a higher line, where the mountains are high and rolling plateau seemed to be especially the cool and bright morning, the air is thin although particular Fresh. Have not seen any signs of human habitation along the way, and only a narrow mountain road, coiled in the valleys, the time face down, sometimes up, sometimes a big turning back, these hills are not too many basic plant, only some yellow grass Austin covered with mottled mountain.
In fact, strange to say also, though seems to have tired to unbearable limits, but does not think that time passed slowly, and perhaps a variety of landscapes and the unique appeal of Island continue to impact on the plateau in the city where some of anemia and the pale eyesight, making further able to adhere to the view to see ah ah, and then any time in the tired years have flashed by.
Climbed over Gore Temple Hill, the following is a county Yajiang, Yajiang more pleasant sounding name, the name of this road are particularly taste, Yingxiu, Wolong, Japan Lung, Xiaojin, Danba, eight United States, Ya-jiang, Litang, Inagi Japan watts, Aden, as well as we had to go north line of Yaan, Luding, Kangding ... .... Yajiang is a special place, yellow master to tell you that in time have a high Anti-Daocheng pulmonary edema caused by the visitors, will be urgently sent to two locations, one of Zhongdian, Yunnan, and the other is that it is Yajiang, there is only 3000 the relatively low altitude of more than wandering into a number of tourists in the western Sichuan Plateau major Inn. Here we hurried off, the car had started to up up up up, turn the scissors curved mountain several large mountains, in the collapse of several people tortured Jiyu came to the world's first high-Town - Litang. That was the way to climb over the mountains suddenly see a valley grasslands to reach a post-town, although there has been no summer grassland that green color and race, when the General Assembly, the grand and lively, but more than 4000 meters high above sea level is constant facts. We are here, this full-featured high-our second town to eat lunch, but the only one here to eat our lunch the two places, of course, the return of another. This is a very special lunch to start that big sister said, suggesting that we eat with pot, I did not find out what it meant, to tell her that we eat stir-fry, but the big sister insisted that there is a plateau, stir-fries cooked but not easy to come out on the cold side , or should we eat even the pot, we four went to watch the future, they decided that each of the ten-dollar pot of the company. In fact, even the so-called pot is to a lot of vegetables and meat in a pot, under the combined fire and boil the cooking together tells us, it is so careless, it suddenly became a rare consensus on all along recognized delicious . I am no exception, although that is starting from Dayton lunch, I have no appetite, but still forced himself to eat at the time think it tastes quite good.
Delicious ready to bid farewell to his departure, met the ride's Mix Zhiqiang. My last one came out from the restaurant and saw the car door stood a man, he was greeted enthusiastically came, someone told me that he is also from Beijing, Zhi-Qiang was also passionately that we wear the same hat, but he is not only a big backpack, there are a set of photographic equipment, cool ah. Zhi-Qiang has been walking the Hailuogou public grasslands, glaciers and towers, today from Litang rushed Inagi, while later on another one into the Inagi Zhiqiang left alone, but he wanted to go on foot from the Inagi Haizi Shan play day and thought of Aden Kamiyama including the idea to turn to make everyone quite sighs and admiration, especially the numbers that he could only go back more than a dozen such a big segment of time.
Drove it out of Litang to again climb high altitude mountains, after Tojiyama several prelude, came to the famous Haizi Shan. It should be the highest elevation in the entire route where the most distinctive landscapes, one of the road we stopped, we stop taking pictures, Zhiqiang took a group photo after our group photo with us, our next to the large Great small ancient fabric, the great ice age of the gravel matrix and some do not but do not have taste Haizi, but also some meadows above the growth of the pale blue flowers, everything is filled with machines and strange gods, Haizi Shan landscape can definitely make a huge geographic territory in the unique.
In fact, many things have not been able to have time carefully taste, in such a place above sea level all its own that should have been suppressed impulses shouting mood as calm themselves. Just like cars and then drive from Haizi Shan to the following line, and gradually see the vertical cliffs and rivers combined with the Hai Zi another kind of landscape scenes, then the mountain rise steeply and the color gray, like some of Huashan taste, rather than that gray Haizi Peak yellow color. Transformation, vision and memory, it seems that we can not dress like the frequent gifts, and only in their hearts over and over silently very vulgar words, and too beautiful ... ...
Beauty of our arrival, once again coming before Daocheng the road to the left there is a color feast. Under the blue sky is a hint of relief in yellow, and green mountains, near a row of yellow-green hugged Yang, woods, forest is quiet and clean out the lake, the water reflected upside-blue sky with white clouds are reflected upside-swaying golden shadows of the trees, lake here is a piece of red into the marsh, color, levels and light, at this moment unreservedly to start bad far to busy people.
Go back to the road on the road on the right there is a closed end of the barley, the way side street is a very low number of stones stacked in a small wall, that grow very special Tibetan women sitting there, I think she was very beautiful Her beautiful smile, her beautiful eyes Refreshing, a photo when she was arrested together with my hands and beautiful ... ... that she is ordinary but Tibetan women as a special representative of the eyes to go with the full integration look, you will find that those Tibetan women warm and simple smile is like a sign here, they kind of curious foreign guests, welcome, a little bit of excitement and the inherent modesty of women are well explained by the unique plateau style. That is, in that moment, in that combination of spectacular color next to her typical smile, I feel my true, I have come to Inagi ... ...
(Iv) a final decision on October 3.
Early morning, no need for anyone to wake up and I sleep cluttered already an abrupt end. I really envy the water forest, when he was in Chengdu, is also having a cold, but he made him a good night's sleep has been plenty of energy, and I was on the contrary, although the last night in the hospital where they check Inagi opened another medicine, although the Ya do not like nor as to the transfusion, as to the oxygen, like Pine Valley, but I was accompanied by rapid heartbeat and random thoughts but was removed without sleep, I think of last night was one voice singing in a hotel inside the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, I really do very envious of their mental state. Highly reflective and physical condition of the poor and allows everybody to exercise caution, the original hot springs bubble to go and only gave up the plan. Up later, Pine Valley has been good, and now she does not think that head is not her own, and Ya-Ye Hao a number of post-transfusion, and I, although there is no absolute tough headache, etc., but could not sleep, no point appetite, feeling not a little effort, can not be more action, chest tightness, heart, head occasionally hum a few times ... ...
But all had to continue, we need to rush to the real destination - Aden.
Breakfast when I drank the owner people to drink yak butter tea, the first drink I felt bad taste, really wanted to sink the pot holding, I heard that can also be anti-high counter, but ultimately not a good opening.
Daocheng County, just getting out of cars, we saw was the beam of morning handsome eyeful of beauty. Huang Shulin the middle of a film still can not bear to retreat mixed green, spooned from the color of the indelible, as well as light blue accompanied by brown flood waters, far past those yellow mountain, ... ...
Rare flat section of the road hurriedly closed, we began to bypass in that colorful mountain, red, purple, yellow, green, sometimes alone, sometimes clustered, in the dream of Aden on the verge of time, played a prelude to a leisurely, clean up was already tired, and somewhat contrary, due to high pain and depressed mood. In fact, in any case can not refuse and that the impact of beauty, canyon appeared in due course disappear again in a timely manner, housing and cleverly place Zhuizhe lush hillsides, consumption of cattle on the plateau, like spilled pearls, fast running streams and the occasional flapping of the flood Qiao Li rocks and rock walls beside the cuckoo Villa is located in the ravine's side of the road opening and closing clouds spread the sometimes chaotic and sometimes the sun back, oh Oh, there are the smiling faces of the Tibetans and enthusiasm that simple wave of the posture, ... ...
At the Geneva Township there, waiting in long queue on the team, we had a village Shihai downed a little girl, poor Tibetan children were sitting on a small stool in front of the picture suddenly blocked my heart full of grass, but fortunately the end she Huo Tuotuo actually jump up and went to the wall, no matter, I also put down a hanging heart, and then buy a ticket when a Yuanhu Hu's little face in the window below, naively looking at the We are, I pity to touched his head, asked him if he is not on the school, he smiled and nodded naive, two black eyes filled with simple brilliance, then there is no hypocritical and finishing inside, but filled with The most authentic innocence, it seems that long, long time ago before seen those feelings. Cute kids, cute kids, from Danba to the Jiva, the one along the way have brought a particularly good mood.
Inagi County. At the Geneva Township. Aden Village.
Tile in Japan, which is now the Shangri-La village, we have been so close from the goal. But in the end this section of the road is very hard, and we sang along with almost circled the road in these deep valleys of the River in the cliff road, for each point the cheers of Autumn and the snow-capped mountains look forward to at the moment behave exceptionally strong, just like that mountain The deep black of the occasional dry spells, colorful mixed land scattered in the jungle, but it seems high tall and straight, with a simple but solemn stance incomparable, such as a roots in the plateau period of demand, telling the had of the history, but also calling distant friends.
Snow has not had time to appear, the road appeared a rare monkeys, car dealers come, those beautiful full of monkeys to the right side of the spiritual mountains leap to go and quickly disappear, really like a fantasy that it is fleeting is not a short-lived dream, but then, that dream is like to have a cutting edge, with the dark mountains in the horizon, the cut the next chunk, and then left to God, God will decorate these parts into a sacred white, bring us throbbing, insights and cheers, and that is hard to find the snow-capped mountains we ... ah ...
Speechless with the taste, we have entered Aden village, or rather, the village was built in the valley, from the Tibetan residential areas began to experience to the following so-called small hotels, roads to drive down deep. However, no use in continuing, had to re-up, looking for shelter is a painful thing, because it does not take the tent if you want, you have to return to begin to see those houses where to look for a place to live. The cold plateau, allowing more people to choose a residence, that is, so that we in the family's house on the ground with Tibetans living two nights may be that this house, that is, give us 12 individuals left side of the stove of a place to see a few wooden chairs arranged and that is perhaps where the family's living room bar, In this way, each person also received a daily 80 yuan, almost the entire journey of the most expensive accommodation. Sleep on the floor, but there's nothing wrong, brother Let's talk about last year, they are also not had to go Kawanishi, a colleague did not sleep in a bed playing ground floor shops, replied when asked by others, where the high altitude can be a meter is one meter shorter do!
Start with a simple passion for the owner to help us cook the cooking. This room space is very high, which is above the stove in a square area is without a roof, and can not be lofty look to the sky, which is exposed in that plane at the sky, is that the roof of a large platform, Our short merry time begins from the masters of cooking needs in that a length from outside the house is very steep climb up the ladder to the platform.
Elderly home owner on the roof of the platform, he waves enthusiastically at us about all that, but also let us eat the red fruit ignored him, he told us that the previous two is the Gulf of Aden in the two summer Kamiyama 3 Nuoduo Ji and Xian Nairi, although he is very clear voice, but I understand, he told us it is difficult to King Bodhisattva and the Bodhisattva Guanyin, I smiled and nodded to him, and was informed that Yang Maiyong see from here to be hidden behind a Xiannai Ri. This is the fence on one side of the roof, followed by another layer of roof, that following the previous parapets at both filled with wheat straw, Huang Cancan, the combination of the distant snow-capped mountains and blue ridge, plus roof and white clouds, blue in the past world, has become the ideal background of all pictures. Aden can be down here, saw a lot of the village houses, many of the long wood tied together under the two fences made of unique lines show the plateau, Pine Valley and the idiot they also let us seize the opportunity to sit above the overhead , and we are also spared in the above terms and details of each one, Pine Valley is also hard to climb up from the second floor of an old wood under the eaves of those straw stacked pile of wood from her to start a another one She looks the entire crawling process is fully exposed, but was finally thoroughly transform, in the straw stack was left inside her bright smile. In fact, a smile at the moment really hung in everyone's face, we roughhouse with each other, but also to take photographs combined with each other to stay in the memory is a another sweet lens: The young girl innocent and lovely smile, and bright yellow jacket, water, a large face, he wanders the dark forest Yuan Huhu majestic snow-capped mountains, Huang took a big barrel of professional, brother channeling excited to pound go, boss was gang fights on the ground ... ...
Because there is no appetite for lunch, but still get something to fill, combined with the past few days are kind of like a bit of a half-cooked rice grains Sanzhao a particle, it is hard to swallow. According to plan this afternoon to go to the frog sea tomorrow, one day time to Chonggu Si and Luorongniuchang, but the abrupt end of the lunch, everyone was informed that at present the afternoon failed to find the horses frog sea, only on foot, back and forth about three hours, but also to know that this journey is to pull the top four or five thousand meters. Swept a while my heart hidden, but still with the departure of large forces. Women host family is our guide, she was carrying a bag, wearing a cap, did not talk much, occasionally laugh about, so go with us quietly. Come down from her house did not go far, we wish to turn right, across a small meadow, we entered the canyon above the step on the way out, the forward had not move much farther, climbed over a few large rock, an occasional start when some Cailin valleys dotted eyes, my heart rate has reached an unbearable level, painful breathing, I only looked at the shadow gradually curved upward hidden it in the mountain valleys, there is no people can know that the feeling of heartache, that feeling comes from giving up, it feels even more from the off with everyone. So, I tried to give up such a waiver, and then go up some, but also for some, You Xiang Juan-Juan back down, I was up a while, in that there are some purple mountain shrubs place, and I came back, the frog sea perhaps forever into the memories of the Mix photographs.
Go down, Juan-Juan and Huang together, two kids in the recruiting business, Qian Ma, Juan-Juan and I at the moment seemed to suddenly see the hope that the beautiful sea frog seems to sparkle on the plateau wink to the layers of waves We smile, we are on horseback, chic to breathe the rarefied but Qinglie as if the air like cold beer, he was blown off and the sweat was already a bit messy wet hair ... ... but finally riding on the horse we did not get out How far, in a very dangerous place where the child is called us down, but also struggling to climb a length of only have to find that riding on the stop-and-so is also a difficult and painful and is difficult to support, the operator the bar, for tomorrow's Luorongniuchang, I am no longer what has been filtered out of the commercialization of the simplicity of the original Tibetan boy in order to increase money without argument if I have a problem in three-jin, let us Juanjuan quietly and then go back from here.
Rain has hit the Jackets from time to time, the cloud seems to be increasingly heavy, and that the original is also more difficult to see the looming Kamiyama its true capacity, and faint bulge of the head, like the weather, our mood has been dark and extreme, but also for the high anti - The fear gradually evolved into the slightest of worry and fear. Back to the Tibetans at home in other tourist package under the large panel covered with trying to sleep would be a too-rapid heartbeat, but only to make themselves tossing in a few days, a bad night's sleep at the moment is not only the dizziness caused by the direct performance of the More is psychological. Muddle-headed water-lam brother fools and others have returned, along with long descent of the Huang Juan-Juan, and simply do not travel the Ya-li, the end, only five of them boarded the frog sea, saw only pay the price and effort can be able to see good scenery. But the next console yourself, do not give up, but remorse for this too much, saying the phrase Juanjuan well, people can and strength to fight, but can not pick on a high anti-ah.
However, the high counter, or recruited, and younger brother to come back after the painful, while the two women is so Chengdu, the time to find shelter here. This family also did not have no where, even before lunch we slapstick of an open-air platforms that have been seized the night, but pitched a tent. Sleep in a little while a little brother at the moment, and just returned from the sea to return the frog boss, who sat in our package that room under the chair, I was also, that two young women came in Chengdu, standing stove and门之间与主人商讨着什么，据说小弟虽头痛难忍但一见此两人便全部好转，老大劝他藉此前去搭讪，可怜小弟还是小弟，迟疑着不动。没办法，我只有忍着每一个动作都会带来头脑嗡地一晕的痛苦，故作从容地走上前去，对了，两手应该是抱在胸前或是插在抓绒衣的口袋里，记不清了，只记得她两个快人快语和我们之间简炼的几句对白。
“你们哪里来的啦！”，想我的声音应该充满着一丝关切，“我们是成都的，因为到的晚，这里原来订好的住处现在都没有了”，“噢，这里肯定特紧张，我们也是找了几个地方最后才在这里定下来的，几个人只有住在这地上了，你们多少人哪！”，看她们虽然有些年龄却还气质不错，“我们八九个人，有孩子，你们哪里来的？”，“我们哪儿都有，我是北京的。”，“我们那儿也有北京和上海来的朋友，大家约好的一起过来过假期，谁知这儿情况这么糟糕。”，边说着她们显然有些沮丧，“别着急，我们老大神通广大无所不能，他会帮你们想办法的。”……，噢，这个原本没有什么特别却因为后来被老大等人在一个小屋里等待水林我们从络绒牛场下来时而演绎成情景剧的片段给我留下的记忆越来越模糊，所以不能再写，剧本与事实还是要保持应有的距离。事实是，我们正说着，老大和小弟就已经迫不及待地走过来，我已经替他们打开了局面此时也可放心地去外面的洗手间了，也可暂避一下他们妒忌与怨恨的怒火，清醒一下自己的头脑。外面的风好大，似乎要把身体的最后一丝热量都榨干，一辆越野车停在路边，我缓慢地行走时驾驶座上的男士和我搭讪，不用问，肯定是里面某位少妇的家里人啦，互相寒喧着时，两位少妇已走了出来，说着晚上和我们打牌一块挤地方住的话，一边说着到下面去叫他们的人，我便趁机回到屋子里。就是这样一个片断，好像挺生动，又好像挺苍白，像一组影子晃过去，还记得后来那两个妇女又返回来说非常幸运地在下面花大价钱找到了一个旅馆，还有第二天上午在等马时还看到那少妇，后来中午骑到前往冲古寺时还见到那位男士还又寒喧了两句，但一切都是这样地匆匆，彼此擦肩而过之后，就和其他许许多多擦身而过的人一样，经过这艰辛而痛苦的旅程后，又得回到自己那固有的喧嚣生活之中，好在我们与别人不同的，是还有人愿意去演绎那个片断，也许是为了小弟，也许是小弟为了大家。
晚饭后大家开始在这有限的空间里寻找自己的位置，此时外面开始飘雪，冰寒的空气可以从任一个角落来侵袭，来不及细想明天的天气，大家赶紧在做完旅途最常规的事情——吃药之后放睡袋、铺地垫、找椅子，而华彬和小弟以及我却都有些难熬啊。我睡在最靠近灶台的位置，快速地心跳、胡乱的思绪、浑身的虚汗，一切都令我对此行充满了懊恼，就好像曾经在羽毛球场上对自己的双打拍档讲的那样，我最恨的时候就是我最恨自己的时候，而此刻，是再贴切不过了，我恨自己，恨这种糟糕的状态，恨这一切糟糕的表现，当然，也对明天的洛绒牛场之行充满了疑虑。一路都沉默少语的阿呆真的是一个热心的人，阿呆此刻对我的照顾与鼓励是我永远难忘的，就像后来在丹巴的晚餐上，娅莉小妹等都逼着我和阿呆喝酒，当时我当然喝了，因为今晚，她在我最无望的时候却没有无助，她在我最痛恨自己的时候却没有痛恨这旅程！我曾经沮丧地自言自语，但愿我能活着回到成都，阿呆却在一旁告诉我，说什么呢，要知道你是很棒的，我还等着你给我寄照片哪。是啊，我让大家用我的相机拍下了我们这群零乱的睡相，呵呵，这些客观的条件我都不在乎，而谁又会知道，这时我觉得呼吸特别地困难，身心极度疲惫而精神却混乱而亢奋，睡在睡袋里我觉得无比地压抑只好扔掉它只盖着藏民家里的被子，然后任每一次转身与反复都让心跳经历一次冲击，也忍受着头脑的一次次过电般的眩晕。小弟此刻也是无眠，始终被猫叫搅扰着难以入睡，我忽然想到自己带着速效救心丸不妨给他吃，但给他吃后我就在想，这药是否适合在他有高反时吃，如果它使血管扩张，那血流量加大不就更显得氧气不足吗，于是我便开始极度地担心，在捱着自己的诸多困难时还得时不时地观察他一下，听他的呼吸是否正常，是的，就是这些现在想来都可笑的事情就在当时依次地发生了，在那种由于各种原因而造成的环境中，思想可以凌乱不堪从而更加拖垮从出发那时就不太好的状态。而最关键的是，此刻我在心中一遍遍地斗争着，明天究竟上不上洛绒牛场。
噢，对了，灯熄了的那会儿，我还为大家背诵了读研时写的两组句子，一首是《蚊之死》，一首是《流浪的爱情》，在老大的要求下，又重复了一遍《流浪的爱情》，痛苦的我把这些笨拙的原来都快随着岁月游走而永远成为过去的句子带给大家，因为我爱大家，即使在那痛苦中，我仍然希望用这些潜意识里还想起来的句子，给大家的旅程带来一点点特别的滋味……
大家的呼吸渐次地均匀了，小弟也香甜地睡去，我辗转着，偶尔盯着灶台上面那没有棚顶的四角天空，唉，在这高原，自己完全被压制了活力，多么地无奈，只有任那雪片静静地洒落，听不见声息，也看不见一颗星星。我斗争着，斗争着，最后告诉自己，身体最重要，冒险则不值，明天的洛绒牛场不要去！
是的，明天的洛绒牛场不要去。这就是旅程第三日我最后的也是最痛苦的决定。
（五） 跪拜央迈勇十月四日。
清早在老大他们对于昨晚是否有一个陌生人在黑暗中坐在屋子里桌边的讨论中醒来，但我没有像大家一样地起床，想想昨晚的决定，倒不必起了。大家起来后有的收拾简单的物品准备出发，有的坐在矮桌旁边吃早饭，都不知道是都有谁叫了我，也不知道是哪个瞬间，天啊，我来干吗呢，我用了三天的路程，难道真的在大家都前往洛绒牛场时我还孤独地躺在藏民家的屋地上，然后等天再黑时看看大家拿回来的照片吗……，起来，必须起来！
匆忙起来，当然也没来得及怎么吃早饭，灌上一壶水，匆匆地赶着上车，这时大家都已在车上坐定了。然后车盘下去，在未到达熙熙攘攘的人群前，我们便下来步行，穿过集合着的大规模的马群，来到买马票的地方，这时才知道，我们出发还是晚了，这里暂时没有属于我们行程的马。等马，用了快一上午的时间，但也正是这段时间，坚定了我对这旅程的最后信心！
愉快的心情和重新找回的激动就从我和水林跨上马背的那一刻开始。急流在路旁击打着节奏，藤萝缠绵着挂在梢头，雪山泉水在山坡上舒缓地流下，簇簇红叶像一丛丛美丽的野花。每一个或骑马或步行的游客此时都好像张开着微笑的脸，每一个藏民马夫或男或女步子都显得那样的沉稳而有力，时雨时晴的天气，空气清新得像可以看见氧气的影子，雨水打下来时就像是在浸润曾经干涸的情绪，阳光播散时就又像是在揭开尘封的期求，骑在马背上的感觉好极了，轻微的颠簸像优美的节奏，流淌在这美景的长河中，一点点愉悦，一点点平静，在经过三天的煎熬之后，终于可以享受自己的无悔旅程。
很快就来到冲古寺，这里的地势非常开阔，高山下面留下一大块草地，草地上长满了错落有致的树木，树木分散地依傍着带着精美曲线的溪流，游客三三两两地散步于此，或席地而餐，或在河边拍照，山坡上面有的是草甸，有的是森林，而右侧就是我们可见的第一座雪山仙乃日。云的颜色是洁白的，但洁白的云大块大块地组在一起，遮挡了神山的真容，不过也并不觉得特别遗憾，此刻的心情像一座宽广的海洋，盛装的全是幸福的体验和对旅程的珍爱，神山虽然隐没在云层，但心情早已超脱。
再往前走一段后人马再次歇息。坐在那平缓的山坡上，任清凉的风拂过，看上下左右，竟有多种地貌，一侧的山岭是葱郁的森林，背后的山坡是无边的草甸，对面的峰壁是嶙峋的青岩，左面的远处是雄伟的雪山，下面是溪谷与河流，泛黄的矮树夹带着红色的灌木，白云覆满的天空偶尔会撕开一条湛蓝的裂缝，整个像一部迭荡起伏的交响乐，好似生命的每一种感觉都可以在这里找到应有的依托……
云流动的速度真的很快，他们飞速地擦过峰峦，但任凭前面的云如何地迅捷却从者甚众，天空始终无法打开湛蓝的胸怀，边骑马边等待，在身旁的盛景里感受着亚丁这真切的每一点细节。阳光在我们快到洛绒牛场时打在左面的夏诺多吉峰上，那俊朗的雪峰现出苍劲的刃脊，然后一瞬即逝，又被云层相拥着隐却在希望的最深处。
洛绒牛场到了，央迈勇峰雄伟的三棱锥体带着斑驳雪岭的苍壁就在眼前，这个在藏民家平台上望过来躲在仙乃日身后的神山，今日，终于在我们历尽辛苦和争斗后伫立在我们面前，虽然越来越多的云层丝毫没有让我们得见整个山峰的真容，但此时，胜境自在内心，不要再多想，快让我跪在高原的怀抱里，拜一拜这神圣的雪山……
洛绒牛场这里只有几顶大帐篷，绿色的和灰白色的，在这里，水林我们和两个马夫每人泡了2袋5元一袋的方便面，算是在寒冷中填了点热量，又喝足了水，在苦等一段时间仍无法见到蓝天后，为了不让大家更多地等待最晚上来的我俩，便在这里向下面步行了。高原上的植物就在身边擦过，那色彩别致生动且充满对生命力的渴求，此刻，满足的与幸福的心情占据了整个思维的空间，来过了，在这遥远的地方，踏下了曾经多么犹豫的足迹，也许从此，再没有什么情景，会感受如此的磨难和磨难后最珍贵的体验。
骑马回来的路上，仍然是快乐的心情，与来时不同的是，此时感受到寒风呼啸着从后面追过来，抽在冲锋衣上，再加上冰凉的雨滴，真的有些寒冷，此时也才真的发现，一套好的冲锋衣裤和装备在此次稻城之行是多么地至关重要，虽然可以感受到风的推力，但风真的没能吹透我的外套，骑在马背上的我真的有些暗自得意，一扫购置这些衣物时的心痛之感。
带着我们的两个马夫在我们还没完全出得景区门时的急流边上把我们扶下马来，他们一路不怎么说话，而且就算他们说话我也不怎么能听得明白，给我牵马的马夫长得瘦高，脸和所有的藏族男子一样有些狭长而且眼窝往面郏里面陷去，鼻梁高挺，头发微卷，他一般是不怎么牵着马缰绳的，但在我上下马时却格外小心地扶住我，虽然没有什么交流，但我感觉他人很好，虽然他很爱惜自己的牲口，但知道我徒步的困难，他几乎一直坚持着让我骑在马上，我和水林这趟往返已经是他们俩人的第二趟了，下来后他们便牵着马悠然的回家了，想他们回到家门后，就不再需要我们刚进景区时那样原始地趴在山坡上流下的泉水处喝那冰凉的雪山泉水了，而是可以喝上一碗热乎乎的酥油茶或是烫上一杯热酒，为这个旺季多少赚到的一点钱而满足上一阵子……
看着他们舍不得骑而是牵着马的身影逐渐消失在向侧延伸的路上，我和水林也看到了等在这里的车，大家下来得都比较早却一直在等我俩，那一刻我不知激动得对水林嘟囔了几句什么，然后便张着笑脸什么都说不出来地上了车，这车里真的是那样温暖，是那种大家聚在一起所特有的那种温暖，有人说我们迟到了要表示些什么，我说让水林唱支歌吧，水林顺口唱了几句'马儿啊你慢慢些走'……
完成了旅程的终极目标，似乎心情也完全轻松下来，而身体感觉也随之好了很多，开心的很多细节从此便再也收拢不住。快乐的第一个主角是被娟娟亲眼目睹整个过程的阿Ten，阿Ten用特有的白话普通话亲切地一遍遍地呼唤着我的名字，那我也只好向前伸直右臂再将手掌与手臂垂直使手心向前迎向阿Ten，“谭俊杰！集中——！”，阿Ten真的好乘好配合地看着我就不动了，然后我手掌向前猛推击中阿Ten，口中喊一声“倒——！“，她便顺势倒在屋地上——的床垫上，稍会儿便是起来和身边的观者一起哈哈狂笑。不过阿Ten被集中的过程还没结束，接下来我作同样的动作，但手掌与她不再有接触，她被集中后再被掌力推倒；然后是她被集中后被我用眼神击倒；然后是被我用意念击倒……，旁边的娟娟是不是也被自己的笑击倒了，呵呵。
是不是之后众人便开始撒欢式地在这屋子里摆开各种狂野的造型了，我替华彬设计得其实挺完美，想象中她披散着长发挡住一只眼睛，留下另一只却现出冷漠和带有几分仇视的眼神，然后双手死死地抠着屋子中间的柱子，一只脚还蹬在柱子上，嘴里叼着老大的那把别人从国外带给他并带有海拔显示功能的瑞士军刀，刀刃还向下滴着血……，可惜的是由于当时我头昏而没能帮华彬完成这个造型，只是任大家在地上无序地滚来滚去随便作了些简单的狂野组合而已。
然后老大的情景剧在饭前开始了，演绎的是昨天成都少妇的那个片段。我们都在屋地上，他走出来，娟娟是民居家里的主人，小妹演那个令小弟心神荡漾的少妇，一定要注意老大的走路的姿势以及问话时的表情，尤其是那个该拍个特写的嘴巴。只见他沉着脸作沉稳状，然后缓步向前迎向小妹，双手反掐着两个后腰，肚子向前挺着，“你们几个人哪？”，天哪，绝妙的声音配上绝妙的嘴型和语调，带来的当然是大家的狂笑。后来大家竟狠心地让我出场来演我自己，唉，多无奈啊，大家狂呼几遍我都没有出来，突然一静，我即时说，所以现在大家都看到大牌的作用了吧，狂笑之后我还是试着和按我的姿势走向小妹，但草草的表演赶紧结束，还是老大以及小弟的表演更生动亲切，当然抛开事实这个剧本的话。
开饭了，大家围坐桌边竟一起大声地朗诵了这首《流浪的爱情》。似乎就从这时起，这几个零乱的句子成了这旅行的主题诗。从这里到七日返回成都，火锅大餐前大家还在那么大的厅堂里不顾四周的目光而一齐朗诵：因为我要流浪/所以我没有爱情//因为我没有爱情/所以我要流浪//如果有一天/我拥有了爱情/那将是流浪的爱情//如果有一天/我真的拥有了爱情/我会让我的爱情/不再流浪。
这组句子在饭后露天的篝火晚会上被用到了极致。那时我由于想找到帽子抵挡那寒风而出来得最晚，没找到帽子只带着头灯走出来时，大家都已经欢乐站在篝火的边上欢声说笑了，还未等我看清楚那篝火上面正烤着的两个乳猪是什么样，就被大家要求着必须将《流浪的爱情》教会给每个人，这个倒不难，趁着主人在那旺火上面用刀割开猪皮然后撒上盐巴等作料的会儿我们就都可以默诵自如了，然后好吧，每个人用自己家乡话当众朗诵！老大还是首当其冲，用义乌话翻译这首诗是真的好难啊，听他们的用词与原音相差最远了，难为老大和王坚大哥，还真有本事，然后依次地我们就听到了广东话的诗、武汉话的诗、广西话的诗，水林当时被我们逼着用江西话但他好像最终还是逃掉了，黄平用客家话的朗诵特别有感觉，她也读得特别投入。轮到小弟小妹和黄师傅三人一起出场了，小妹用重庆话先读一句，小弟和黄师傅用成都话再重复一遍，其实也不等他们读完，大家都可以同声而和了，原理也较简单，稍变些音再在句子后面加上一被拖了长音的'噻——'即可，这也成了大家接下来几日最常用的一个语气词，你这噻他那噻，呵呵，最后小弟都急了，不止一次告诉大家，不是每个句子后面都应该加上噻的！用成都话背诵黄师傅还觉得不够过瘾，更是用成都普通话再给大家秀了一把，这时我也才明白成都话不同于成都普通话，最后连娅莉和王坚大哥都秀完了之后，这个篝火大会的序幕算是带给大家放纵的快乐幸福后成功地收场了，但快乐幸福便不再收场，故事才刚刚开始……
第一个节目老大就拿出了自己的绝活，真感谢藏民主人家的小院是一个天然的大舞台，再加上高原寒凉的风，为每一个表演都造足了声势，只见老大来回走了几个直线和折线，并哼着特有的节奏，向大家展示着他枯藁的身材和所谓的休闲装正装，还有，哈哈，泳装。若不是为了最后这一项，老大的表现可以打九十分，但最后有谁看到过穿着厚厚的冲锋衣展示泳装的啊，看不过去了，我只有拉上华彬冲上去向大家展示情侣装了，当然最后是被大家哄下来了，然后老大就借着这个开始组织他们以前出游也必有的项目，自己演自己。
一年以后，我又一个人来到亚丁，也不知是不是见到了神山，但夜晚的寒风仍然是那样猛烈，我瑟琐在主人家的院子里，点燃一只孤寂的烟，等待最后一丝幸福与希望，没有人可以体验这样的凄清，那随风而落的每一点烟蒂，都像过往的太多零乱回忆，伴着思念与痛苦走了又来，……，就这样，让我也说不出什么对白，华彬出场了，我们互对暗号，本来正想着组织些什么样的临时对白，华彬倒最直接，来吧，快让我们入洞房！随之而起的狂笑在寒风中冲击着亚丁原本宁静的山峦与天空，也挑战着高原地区我们的快乐极限。然后我们又提议老大表演数日野游后回到家中面对嫂夫人和爱女时的片段，小弟作为志愿者演起了嫂夫人，一阵娇嗔的吵闹……
在我的鼓励下，大家都开始寻找自已最亲密的旅伴，然后目光对视五分钟，而且我要求大家一定要有眼神的接触，老大去找了娟娟，小弟去找了小妹，华彬是不是去找了阿呆，最后剩下水林只有去找黄师傅了，对视过后在我的鼓动下，每个人都去真诚地拥抱自己的旅伴，小弟小妹在那儿吵着也没抱成，而华彬和阿呆则抱得最紧，这也还没结束，我又要求大家快去拥抱五个亲密的旅伴，但大家似乎开始还没反应过来什么意思，稍后就一堆人同时向我冲来，我只有抱住了头……
主人家拿来了藏袍等服装，然后我们便开始组合着跳舞，老大和小妹最先跳动，也跳得不错，然后在我的提议下，大家开始反串了，水林着女装而娟娟着藏袍，这样依次下来，然后快乐的舞蹈就着这刚才的拥抱和这着装的舞蹈就开始在又红又旺的篝火旁，我们开始还跳着小鸭子舞，就是那个节奏啊噻啊噻的我叫不出名字的舞，但高海拔下有人犯晕，我们只好停下来，这时主人家那个两天来一直忙于张罗的大哥叫来了主人家年仅十七八岁的藏族后生，那后生长得挺英俊，性格缅腆，一对大眼睛挺亮，而且他的脸不像一般藏族男子那样长而是有些圆圆的，他唱了一只好听的歌给我们，是用藏语唱给大家的，大家在寒风的篝火旁一阵感动，然后就手牵着手和这年青后生一起学起了锅庄，是的，在这亚丁民居的院子里，在这烤着两个乳猪的用木头绊子点起的篝火旁，我们跟着一个多么朴实的青年学着那充满了盛情的舞蹈，虽然我们的动作还有些不协调，虽然我们的步子还是那样零乱，但那随着篝火旺了又旺的，是我们荡漾在亚丁夜空的幸福快乐……
跳累了，怎么这高高的亚丁还真的容易让人气喘吁吁啊，那也无妨，正好席地而坐，吃上块鲜嫩的烤肉吧，用藏家那把刀割开一块又一块的美味，然后放在嘴里，任那篝火中随风飞出的火星扑面而来，热乎乎的，夹杂着木头燃烧的特有味道，扫过狂歌的我们，再冲向身后那已经飘起在高原夜空的漫漫雪籽……
（六） 无言的别离十月五日。
都不知道主人家是何时起床的，清晨冰凉而新鲜的空气使人心神一亮，屋后面那里早已有主人架起了木头绊子，一锅水已经烧热，洗了脸又漱了口，想想昨晚那就算是几天来最好的一次睡眠，再想着今天将返回到雅江，心头中一阵轻松。
回到屋来，大家都纷纷开始整理行包，在这藏家的屋地上，大家的东西是最散乱的，但也是背囊中的行李利用率最高的时候，一片狼藉的景象出现时，我们便在结束了那似乎几日不变味道的早餐后逐个离开，我是最后离开的两人之一，临走时还找出了管肠胃的药叫一小伙子转交给主人家的老伯，那是昨晚我答应给他的，虽然这临走时没能见到他。临走时没能见到的还的主人家十五六岁的姑娘，当天从青蛙海下撤回来后不久，那姑娘和另一位妇女蹲在屋地上面用刀削土豆，我和黄平在分别各自照了捣酥油茶的照片后，便一起邀请她过到外面屋子里照张相，那地刚好从窗子处斜射进来一束光线，打在挂着几块糌巴的柜子上以及地上的那个捣酥油茶的筒上，我们想她过来在光线里就肯定可以突出其原本清秀的脸庞，但她说等削完了那些土豆才可以拍，我们没有强求她，只能任光线时有时无然后逐渐暗淡下去，最后等到喝完两碗酥油茶睡了一会儿过后，醒来时阿呆已经坐在灶火旁帮我烤所有汗湿的衣服和帽子，而那清丽的藏族少女早已不再那削土豆了。就这一早，我们离开时，匆匆地离开时，除了记得见到了那个总是围着灶台给我们做饭的男子外，没有看清主人家的另外一些人，上了几级木梯，跨过高高的门槛，车停在路边，背后淡去的是有些阴暗的藏家民居和那充满着特别情愫的悠悠的味道……
云海出现在我们盘回的亚丁至日瓦的这一段惊险的路上，太阳还没来得及升起在山峦的上面，整个山脉在有一点光亮的晨空下面显得黝黑，而那些云却是洁白的，白的如雾如纱，从山谷的中间动感地飘来，像一条展开的白色缎带，缠绵地拂动在我们的脚下，从这山谷一直向前，那缎带便融进无边的云的海洋，而向后，却更是丝丝缕缕地亲吻着山岭上葱郁的随着秋天的到来而开始着色的森林，也更是在亲吻被那一束束立体式的曲线所感染了的清晨就出来赶路的我们！
欢呼着我们稍一向下，再拐几个急弯，哈哈，此时前路茫茫，刚刚还在下面的云海，却已经遮挡了前路，兴奋与茫然，还有几分恐惧，伴我们走过这一段路，此时再也不见刚才的那些连绵的来时因为天晴还全部褐青而此时因这两日阴雨而全都将头顶染白的雪山，然后我们冲出那些浓雾，一片片金黄色的彩林在清晨显得那样眩目，伴着云海后面那有些逶迤的日出，一起又冲了出来……
穿过那些多彩的山峦，飞驰般地掠过一个又一个纯朴而且微笑着向我们挥手的藏民，随着地势有些开阔，稻城县城旁那大片的黄杨林又出现在眼前。在上午宁静的空气下，在两天经过景致的全面洗礼后，这树林黄得特别纯净，在蓝天白云的下面，简洁而又不矫情，再加上一群眨着好奇大眼睛的藏族孩子以及远处山坡上成群的耗牛，在一条淡蓝色带着柔美曲线的河旁，像一只清悠的歌谣，吟唱着宁静与平和，而背后，也许是萌动的激情。
在稻城县城里我和华彬跳下车去，捡了两袋子苹果上来，总还觉得这高海拔的苹果味道真的有些不同，再加上匆忙挑来的一对银镯，快速地伴着快速动作而产生的头晕跳回到车里，随着道路修整的杂乱场面和亚丁人社区自助服务中心的逐渐退却，稻城县在我们又看到那片红草滩时已经随着不经意的光阴而暂时远去了……
远去的不仅仅是那些留在艰辛之路上的足印，还有我们翻过的海子山，那刚往上盘时的壁立的崖壁和时有时无的海子在朦胧的车窗里向后飞过，然后是那奇特的由一个个大小不一的砾石覆盖而成的充满斑驳沧桑气质的海子山顶，一个个亮晶的小海子像点缀在其中的饱含灵性的眼睛，一条路就这样地伸向远方，一条路也就这样地留在身后，来了，走了，来过了，走过了，不敢瞬间暴发的激情却没有走，压抑在内心的，是多么想破口而出的一声狂吼啊，在这青藏高原的东端，让天空和影子证明我们自由的流浪的心！
理塘这里是一片开阔的大草原，那草原中间有一些弯曲的小溪流，虽然没有黄师傅提起的赛马会时的热闹与隆重，但围着那连锅连喝上几碗热乎乎的汤的确是不错的方式。再上车时依然像来时一样地不太打得起精神，但不一样的是此时没有搭车的志强了，想此时他又在何处，不知他是否真的从稻城徒步去海子山，也不知他是否真的准备着去转山，但无论如何，此行的我是没有那样的福份了，一个海子也没看到，俄初山也没有看到，神山的真容也没有看到，但车开动又翻山时，我们又看到了路边的那个兵站，在一望无垠的枯黄色的高山草甸上，兵站充满了神奇，不知是否真的如黄师讲的那样是中国最高海拔的兵站，来不及细想，一种强烈的满足感涌了过来，是的，好多都没有看到，但又看到好多，就这样，够了。天空似乎越来越阴暗，好像痛惜这无言的道别，其实又何必痛惜，流浪而快乐的心从来不会随便停留，也不会随便地从曾停留过的地方溜走……
雨稀里哗啦地下个不停，雅江到了，我们随便找了家小旅馆，像每天一样，从车上一个个地把大背包传下来，再看着一个个女的男的把偌大的背包背上，组合着去找住宿的房间，疲倦到极点的我们真的很难兴奋起来，女孩子们仍然锲而不舍地议论着如何如何可以洗一次头的诸多方案但一个个地被老大制止，吃饭时老大也没有了车里一路的高谈阔论，肚子痛地极度煎熬，无法再抛出一个个掷地有声的结论了，痛苦地连喝碗汤都难，痛苦地迸出一句，吃完饭我们还是去医院，一定要快速治好，为了回到成都后的大腐败活动。华彬、老大与我匆匆结束这本来想点却没有雅鱼的晚饭，一起来到这家旅馆后面的雅江县医院里，医院的后面就是一条涌动的江水，江水畅快的流速就像年轻女医生那生猛的性格，我们都来不及讲述病况，她就一阵洪水泻地般地给我们来了一次高反的知识教育，总之，所有都不是因为别的，都是因为高反，先处理老大，开了一些药，然后是我，开药还要打一针，最后是华彬，开药加输液，取药时的那个年龄颇大的大姐肯定是个藏族人，她那略带害羞的爽朗的笑加之对我们那有些新奇的眼神可以告诉我们一切，她在医生诊病时坐在医生对面的桌子旁，看着我们，时而插几句，譬如说起这里海拔较低、去稻城路况特险前段日子还有车翻到山下、越往外走会越舒服等等，偶尔还会低下头去笑一阵，脸都快贴在桌子上了，动作非常羞涩，声音却异常爽朗，头还要向右歪一些，一条特别粗黑的辫子显然没有经过仔细的修饰，她麻利地帮我取药并告诉我吃法，然后还热心地帮我把输液的很多东西拿到输液室。
狭小的输液室里坐着一个满头是血又干又黑的男人在输液，华彬就坐下来，而且只能是在他旁边，我和华彬接下来把老大劝走了，当然老大虽然表示出热情地想留下来陪但还是轻快地离开，但愿他别想成是华彬我们想要一个单独的空间，呵呵，我们可真的是想让他多休息啊。没想到这里的护士手法很好，一针打完我都没觉得痛，然后伴着华彬输液时那滴嗒的节奏，我们拿出她的数码相机，逐个地欣赏和品评每一张照片，从角度到光线、从组合到色彩、从人物到情节，一张张拍摄精美的照片就像活脱脱的一样，使我们快速地度过这原本应该非常枯燥的时光。
走出医院时雨好像是暂停了，华彬也就没再冒失地踏进来时的那个水洼里，虽然仍然要忍受无法洗头的痛苦，但相信输液后她不会再像原来那样忍受头痛的煎熬了。回到旅馆时好多人都还没睡，娅莉拿来了瓜子，当然了娅莉好像永远都有吃不完的好东西，王坚大哥和水林我们一起香甜地吃着，低海拔的轻松使大家谈论着轻松的话题，而且这个地方竟然还有电视可以看，《粉红女郎》中万人迷的浅笑使水林那原本就有特色的眼睛一刻都无法离开电视的画面，我真替他担心，辛苦了这么多天，还得这样劳神。
终于电视在午夜被关掉了，我快速地睡去，带着第二天水林和王坚大哥抱怨的鼾声，我相信他们的抱怨，在那么疲惫的时候，一切都有可能，好在他们没像以前有的朋友那样形容自己是——'睡在一个工地上'。连续翻过高山的一天就这样地结束了，水林虽然很惨却坚持着没忍心弄醒沉睡的我而只有等待我翻身的时候试图快速地睡着……
（七） 别让我拒绝快乐十月六日。
歌声又回荡在车厢里。游离了几天的灵魂终于又回来了。雨停了，而且令人振奋的是，一夜的雨染白了连绵的山，虽然来去只隔几日，却又是别样的风景。出得雅江，便开始翻越高尔寺山，那白雪覆盖的一切都美仑美奂，显得特别地不真实，漫坡的丛林、桀傲的松树、高山的草甸，都覆满了依稀的洁白，飘缈而又具体，像任意的轮廓却又充满细节，那不同地貌恰巧组合了生动得充满了灵感的画面，整个都幻化得像一场梦。
梦就是梦，整段惊险的路况让我们无法在最具冲击力的景画处停车拍照，那令人惊艳的一切，就只能在回忆中了，但我们还是选一些地方拍了照片，虽然在车启动时向后退了一截弄得有些紧张刺激，但在这样的背景里留下快乐的影子足以让大家开心得像一个个孩子，而且我想如果没有人的影子那也许有人就会认为那景色也许是经过特殊的滤色处理吧。实际上没有，看看呆子和小妹那鲜黄的衣衫，看看黄平在三角架旁专注的背影，看看王坚大哥巨酷的墨镜，这一切，都是真实的，都是快乐的。
快乐的这些美景只能算是今天的一个小前奏了，车很快就爬到高尔寺山顶，这里视野开阔，一望无际的雪原会瞬间冲开久违了的胸怀，快停下来吧，在雪地里狂欢。用脚踏在那些高原的雪野，味道是那样的特别，别再吝惜每一点体力，此处已经没有紧张的呼吸，在这苍茫的像童话一般的高原山顶，一切忧郁的和不快的都深藏在雪野的背后，留下的是纯粹的快乐。有的人把脚印印下来，有的人走向远处感受辽远的心境，有的人仰天狂吼，有的人匆忙支起专业的器材，也有的人去远处解手，更有的人偷拍了解手的老大！最后，大家再也忍受不了，多日来的旅途情感一并爆发，让我们在雪仗里放掉所有的情绪，女孩子们明显比较团结，因此受到攻击的当然是水林、小弟和我，老大还在一旁记录着一个个可爱的瞬间，哇，有的打得真准啊，专往脑后衣领上面砸下来，然后任这高原雪球瞬间融化后的那一刻刺骨冰凉激凌一下，再任大家疯一样地扭成一团又一团，摔成一堆又一堆……
累了，打不动了，喘着粗气了，快看看用数码拍的杰作，数码的优势就在于即拍即看，当时水林的相机过到娟娟的一张脸部特写，露一点黄色的衣服，背景是白茫茫的雪原，然后是人物的脸部，水林不自禁地叫出来，哇，好大啊！
快乐的情绪还没有结束，我们盘下高尔寺山后驶过新都桥，往返路程的安排刚好使我们可以在沿途住在不同的地方，也刚好可以在时间上基本错开，此时虽然没有来时老大和阿ten的儿歌对唱大比拼，但也没有了来时的夜色，因此那充满韵味的沿途风景便毫不保留地在路旁展开，一排排似黄还翠的路边杨树，一脉脉连绵起伏的草甸高山，一抹抹淡淡的峰间雪顶，一条条弯曲环绕的静静河水，一簇簇样式别致的藏式民居，一丛丛路旁的野蒿高草，于是停下来，或走或追，或说笑或打闹，或简单或疯狂，在那充满曲线的路旁，轻松的心情打动了一切，……，被大家拍下了一张冲进草丛用嘴衔住枯草的照片，本来以为够酷而且最能品味自然的直接味道，却不想回来后洗印后竟被少数人误以为在办事呢，唉。
再往前行，阳光逐渐地来了，我们就在这阳光中来到塔公，这里有著名的塔公草原和塔公寺，记得来时的路上夕阳的最后色彩即将消失，朦胧中看见很多喇嘛在路旁行走，便可感知这里浓郁的宗教气氛。我们的车开过塔公城后停在草原中间的路上，向回走一段是刚路过的寺庙，向前便是有很多马可以骑的草原，我向回走，准备去拍那寺庙外面的转经筒和那转经筒旁虔诚的藏民们，路上遇到了一位老人，她干瘦的脸庞又黑又小，刻满了高原阳光下那特有的皱纹，但目光却像是在坚毅与平静之中游离，我和黄平给了她一些钱，她便站在不同的角度让我们拍照，从近到远，直到她那驮背的背影像一个符号一样地从印在白云蓝天里到消失在草原的地平线上，一群鹰像战士一样地从空中飞过，我调整相机准备拍下那飞翔的雄姿，一位藏族大姐爬上旁边的山坡，那里有很多的经幡，她的身影在背光下变得黝黑，经幡上面趴着一只正待起飞的鹰，而对面的山上，是整个山坡的白色经幡，山下则是笨教的一座座白塔。
再走过去，已经站在转经筒旁，几个藏族老人快速地边转经边走过去，看过来的目光好像是有很多话要说却又好像是什么都不想说，我静了静，然后开始和他们一样，来转经，不管那转经筒是大还是小，我都一个个用力地去转用心地去转……
这不短时间带来了我的慰藉也带走了好多的体能，我再往车停处赶过来，车子又已经向前开到草原上有很多马停的地方，小妹他们有的还在马上，而娅莉她们却已经吃上了藏族大姐那香喷喷的烤肉串，一洼洼的水点缀在草原上，从侧面看过去，是一个又一个映照着蓝天白云的镜子，走过去，那镜子里还映下快乐的脸庞，所以就开心吧，开心地喊着大家快上车，也开心地买那大姐的两串烤土豆，看着山脉在草原的右方向上抬起，还有那雪山在前方勾勒出天际。
快乐轻松时的旅程显得更快，我们在中午阳光充足的时候来到八美，有人去张罗午餐了，我和黄平呆子华彬等人静静地敲开了路旁一家藏居的大门，其实敲门开始并没有人应，我们轻轻地推门而入，向右对着那漂亮门居的门，门前这里是一个小院子，院子的右侧堆一些粗木，中间是一块空地，民居分上下两层，外墙和屋檐的色彩用白色红色和黑色等色彩组合而成，门旁拴着一条狗，在狗的叫声中一位老人和一个孩子出现了，我们纷纷在院子中央和她们合影，或是拍她家漂亮的民居，用心地去观察这最真实的藏居，你会觉得每一个细节都充满着质朴和生动，那门，那窗，那墙，那花，那桩，那狗……，再到居室里面去感受吧，进来后一楼特别阴暗，半摸黑地从一个很陡的木梯爬到上面，一个居室里面墙壁都挂着粉色的纱帘，从一些窗子里透进来一些外面反射后的光线，于是整个房间里都充满了朦胧温暖却又特殊的气氛，一边是长长的窄窄的床铺，不知主人是如何住呢，是成一字形睡在上面吗，墙上还挂着些画像，整个房间都显得有那么一点点神秘，出来再往另外的方向，发现其实这里面房间有很多，在一个厨房旁没有摆放什么太多家具从而也不知是作什么的房间里，有一扇木窗，从这里向外看去，可以看到蓝天白云，和那有些绿色的却被白雪覆盖了顶部的山脉。这是一种多么美好的角度，黄平架起高高的三角架，我从她的镜头里望出去，经过那专业相机滤析过后的图案充满了清晰的美感与一种说不出来的宁静，……
从里屋走出来来到楼上外面的一个露天平台上，此时老人和孩子还有应该是孩子妈妈的妇女就安适地在这沐浴着阳光，那墙壁是木头垒成，中间有一扇窗子，窗子后面就是刚在里屋见到的粉色纱帘，而此时刚好形成一个带着色彩的镜子，镜子里面清晰地刻下远处的白云，和一棵像油画中才有的那种味道的树，窗下有一小凳子，妇女和孩子此时就坐在这儿，面前一个小桌，摆着酥油茶壶，一只小猫懒懒地趴在壶边，阳光在大部分没有被云遮避的时间里精彩地打下来，我们就可以懒洋洋地靠着一边的柱子，然后等着轮流和这油画一般的家人及情境去合影了。
下来，告别老人和孩子，还有人舍不得地和那小孩子照相，也是在临走时他们问过了以后，才知道这原本一直被我当成男孩的小家伙实际上是一个小女孩，大家都爱怜地给她一些文具或少量的钱，在这还没有一点商业味道的家里，我们感受到的是一种无限的满足，看着房顶上妇女又开始打理晾晒的谷物或是麦秸，我在那堆粗木上摆了个事后被大家称为狂野的造型并被华彬拍下来之后，我们在大家的招呼声里离开了这个精美而且充满温情的小院子。在这个院子旁边的一个拐角墙处又和大家摆了些故作冷酷的造型之后，我们去吃午饭了。
下午的路一直在峡谷中行进，一直伴着那湍急的河流或是叫作江水，阳光还是比较慷慨地经常洒下来，打亮我们愉悦的而且在饭后有些困意的心情，所以当一段塌方造成的车辆暂停并没有使我们有什么懊恼，倒是在这样清新的空气和阳光下走上一阵子，反倒成为大家共同的愿望，于是三三两两，大家走在青翠的山间，时而从山峦的间隙中掠过雪山的一角，时而有清瀑从坡上舒缓地流下，时而是道路拐一个急弯，时而是山崖成一面苍壁，但不变的，是那一直有些咆哮的湍流，打击着特有的午后节奏。黄平锲而舍地扛着她的三角架，呆子在离开车子后也显得有些健谈，水林在身后出现拐弯后又消失，小弟和小妹不知是不是故意丢在后面的路里，只有老大和娟娟华彬阿Ten他们一直向前，也终于在我们轻松地走过一段后才发现他们已然闲坐在湍流的岸边，老大和娟娟坐在一块伸向江中的大石块上，阿Ten则用衣服盖着头，坐在河滩上这块大石留下的阴影里躲避高原阳光的灼射，华彬却已将脚部脱光，碰触着湍流的每一个按抚，我冲下来，任由老大拿一个枯竹竿去拨弄水流，任由娟娟带着遮阳帽冷漠地望着江心，我爬到这大石块他们两人的中间，让阿呆给我拍下了这清新的一刻，倒是娟娟在老大扭头过来问我是否想合照时淡淡地说，他是把我们当背景，……
车子来了，大家上车，再往前接上早已又往下冲了一截的此时是抱着三角架的黄平。然后一路带着顺畅，我们冲进丹巴，阳光此时还有些烈，不是我们想象的那种夕阳，肯定要先去看了拍了那著名的丹巴碉楼，然后大家才会下来找地方休息，于是沿着那江水向右拐，不远的地方，我们望向江对岸，一幢幢据称有千年以上历史的碉楼展现在被阳光和山体的阴影切分成上下明暗清晰对比的两色里，我们都有一点好奇，也都有一点失望，因为这碉楼群没有想象的那样多，也无法再到江对岸去爬上那山去爬上那雕楼了，好在还可以感叹那些建在有些陡峭的山坡上面的建筑，尤其是灰色带一点点艳丽色彩的房屋，况且小弟还说那座斜着的雕楼下面的房子里，去年曾有一位绝貌的小姑娘……
再回到丹巴县城，在这终于有更多现代文明味道的街道上，我们看到的还有偶尔一过的丹巴美女，但我们没有来得及寻找更多，就被找住处的琐事带回到现实，后来在华彬的凌牙厉齿下，我们硬是将丹巴县城也是这一路遇到的最好的酒店的价格杀到了可以接受的范围，然后带着我们走回车里时大家的欢呼以及女孩子们对终于可以洗头发洗澡的即将实现的愿望的憧憬，我们又依次运下一个个大背包，各自安顿。
在老大的要求下，我们没有到外面去找阿Ten强烈推荐的今年春节她一人在此度过时所吃到一家小店里面一个老头所做的酸菜鱼，而是直接在这宾馆的二楼大厅最靠里角的大圆桌上开始了完美的聚餐。大厅里还有两桌客人，但我们毫无顾忌地朗诵了我们的旅途主题诗《流浪的爱情》，在别人诧异和惊羡的目光里，我们开了几大瓶红酒，一路上的高反和海拔使我们大家禁酒到今日，而且更重要的是，黄平因为要在四姑娘山再呆上几天，明天中午就得和大家分别，这晚餐是旅途中大家全部的最后相聚。很多有意义的事情发生在这里，首先在老大的畅议和大家的想象之下，我们定下了此生今后再遇时的接头语：A对B严肃地说，集中！ B作害羞状，少来！然后合阿Ten带给大家的那句经典，啊呸！之后是热烈的拥抱。这晚餐刚开始，大家就分头来练习这组动作了，然后是黄平一个人的经典告白，从老大开始，她细述了每一个兄弟姐妹在她心中的印象，然后和每一个人碰杯，真的不知为何，此时似乎有一种难以言表的亲情在胸怀里荡漾，原来经过艰辛旅途的心胸却也如此地狭窄，盛不起几句离别的话语，呵呵，看黄平评点每个人，王坚大哥成了最可依靠的好男人，雅莉成了最幸福的女人，小弟帅得有刘青云一样的眼睛，黄师傅酷得最集中的是那副墨镜，她也发现了娟娟的才华以及阿呆的体贴，她也没忘华彬的口才阿Ten的坚强，她也还在和水林玩笑和调侃，当然，她也问了我那个问题，爱辉，你是不是真心地想帮我拿三角架？我端在空中的杯停了停，犹豫地说，也许是，也许不是……
一个旁边的有些醉意藏族大哥过来给我们唱歌给我们敬酒，他的歌声雄浑而苍劲，充满康巴男子特有的音调，他在歌中唱着美丽的丹巴山水，豪爽的丹巴藏民，也当然有美丽的丹巴姑娘。已经喝了几瓶的我们当然也不会有半点犹豫，来吧，品尝着充满藏族风情的有一点点另类的豪爽的味道，我们一起吞下旅途辛劳后上天赐予我们的纵情与快乐！又是黄平，非常棒地回唱了一首对这藏族汉子来说多么遥远的地方传唱而来的民歌刘三姐啊，黄平的歌声与汉子的歌声风格迥异，却有着同样的令人无法忘记的绕梁之音，每个人的脸好像都红扑扑的，仅有的一点点红酒旋转在大玻璃杯子里，像炽烈的舞女的裙，耳畔好像有着傻傻的调子，如果你要幸福你就红着脸……
沿着夜晚的丹巴街道三五成群地逛着一家家特色的小店，在夜深时竟还可以欣赏特色的藏族饰品，买一点心仪的小东西，虽然我和雅莉先回来了，但没多久，冲回来的华彬拿来用数码机拍下的一个特色酒吧的室内充满藏式风情的布置与装饰的照片后便兴奋地向大家宣告，那是绝对需要也绝对值得一去的地方，于是在老大的随之召集下，大家先趁华彬和娟娟连续误撞裸身男子，也就是小弟老大和王坚等的当儿，我们各自洗漱休整，然后在午夜之前，向小酒吧进发了。
青稞酒，酥油茶，狂热的音乐，小木桌，花座垫，浓郁的藏情，这里可以任每一个人展现不同于车厢里的另一面，呆子再也呆不住了，她一刻都没有坐下来过，水林则展示着蹦迪时的各种特色的动作，小弟和小妹在那里偷时间窍窍私语，娟娟也不再去默念什么将进酒而是点燃一只烟，在音乐里闭上眼睛轻轻的甩头……，好像又一轮杯盏交锋，夜更深而情更浓，人更醉则舞不休，又一个藏族汉子冲了进来，拉起每一个人，一起跳起了锅庄，这还不够过瘾，他硬是拉着被他称为舞蹈家的藏族老板娘大姐，教大家跳起那精彩的动作，于是，他们在前，我们在后面，电视里放的是长袖翻飞的画面，我们则笨拙地跟着大姐与汉子，认真地弄着每一个动作与姿态。藏族大哥是边跳边敬酒，我们是边学边饮尽，几曲过后还不够，汉子说不跳阿坝锅庄，要跳我们甘孜锅庄，于是又见大姐灵巧的手臂，上下舞动时，脚步也踩踏挪移着节奏，那姿态与身段真的好美……
小弟醉了，我扶着他走下巷子里一段长长的台阶，这可怜却又幸运的小家伙，他才二十出头，就在这快乐旅途中快乐地醉了，也许我们也都醉了，好像没有人来得及细想这快要黎明的天空还有没有清朗的星，对啊，那时，天空中到底有没有清朗的星。
（八） 爱恨之间十月七日清晨出发。想到今天就要回到成都，虽然十分困倦而心情却也还比较放松。似乎一路无话，只记得我几次问几天的路程里坐在我身旁时间最多的阿Ten，我今天看起来有没有什么不一样，她却说了几个答案都没有说出来，我也没有说出来，直到和所有人分手都没有说，其实是那天我换了一副眼镜，把那全框的眼镜换成了一个半框的黑眼镜，但没有人察觉，也许是没有人想到会有人带着两副眼镜吧，也或许是这旅程的快乐是在内心而不必去留意外在的任何细节吧，也或许是旅伴之间是一种距离之美而不必在意细节吧……，可中午未到时，我们过了小金来到日隆，黄平下车了，在我们对她的一个个叮嘱里面下车了，接下我递给她的三角架后下车了，背着她的摄影包下车了，戴着她那顶红色的帽子下车了，……，她要或是孤独或是享受地在这里再住上几日，她可以白天去沟里摄影晚上在镇上泡吧，她可以想我们或是忘掉我们，呵呵，车开动的那一瞬，我们挥手，然后老大突然说，快回头再看她一眼吧，也许今生就再也无法遇见。是啊，也许今生就再也无法遇见，无法遇见这些可爱的共同经历磨难与快乐的兄弟姐妹们，我猛地一激凌，赶紧回头，却没能再看到她的身影，视野里只有那代表着快速发展和商业化的刚建起来的一个个小宾馆。
再经过猫鼻梁时没有人再有来时的兴奋，然后车开始翻越巴朗山。这段路来时没有什么感觉，可此时怎么这样惊险。像在一面垂直的山壁上开采出来的时上时下时回时转的山路，还要时不时地躲过冲过来的大货车，错车一瞬间的风声就像是旁边悬崖里呜咽的低咽，对面的山上洒满着斑驳的白雪，整个山脉充满着力量，也充满了挑战。车子有过两次惊险的瞬间，一次是突然遭遇原本是高频率出现的180度急弯，但好像没有反应地直着像前，就在前沿快到悬崖边缘时才猛地向左拐过来，阿Ten猛地用手抓我的胳臂，却不想我也试图去抓她，然后我们俩一阵狂笑，随后在老大和华彬在我们身后津津有味地讨论天南地北的美食之际，一辆货车在我们刚拐一个弯后冲过来，黄师傅猛打方向盘两车几乎是擦着错过，而旁边就是那深不可测的深谷……
终于又到了景色清幽的谷中卧龙，一条河上有一座小木桥，水林适时地跳上去拍照，趁着有人去张罗饭时，我们逛了会路边摆摊的野山货，然后又买了烤玉米和烤土豆，先开始香甜地吃起来。
下午行车很快，我们在四点多就已经回到了被大家大呼文明世界的成都。洗漱和短暂的休息，订票与简单的商讨，六点钟，开始了疯狂之夜的序幕，从盆盆虾吃到孔亮火锅，有我们的人也有老大他们原来雪宝顶之行的队友，大家尽情地吃着，我也尽情地吃着，直到最后我被他们拖着从火锅旁离开，这几世未有的美食啊，为何为了急于去唱歌而让它浪费在这香浓的汤锅里？在一家比较奢华的包房里我们终于疲倦到极点也亢奋到极点，大家唱到黎明。
有些人在没有来得及告别时就告别了。小弟小妹、水林。再醒来时看到水林留在桌子上的字条，然后和老大娟娟王坚雅莉他们去吃一碗热乎乎的面条，送他们上了去往机场的小巴。在有些酸酸的味道里拥抱和握手，然后看着车开动，再用短信祝他们一路平安。
... ...
写到这里，真不知道对亚丁之行是爱还是恨。这里面，有疲倦到难以忍受的奔波，有恐怖到几乎面对死亡的高反，有幸福得难以言表的激动，也有别离时那由衷的淡淡的伤怀……
所以说爱，是因为爱。所以说恨，也是因为爱。在那爱恨之间，竟没有一丝界线。
于是能够肯定的，便是对这爱恨旅途和队友们最真切的思念。
最后，我当然也忘不了，忘不了那些代表着未来和希望的可爱的孩子们，那些可爱的丹巴孩子和稻城孩子们。在日瓦买亚丁景区门票的时候，一个圆乎乎的小脸就在车窗下面，天真地望着我们，我怜惜地摸了摸他的头，问他上了学没有，他笑着天真地点着头，黑黑的两个眼睛充满着纯朴的光彩，那里面没有任何矫情和修饰，却充满了最地道的童真，好像是很久很久以前才看见过的那些感觉。可爱的孩子，可爱的孩子们，我们真的没法忘记，这一路艰辛的旅途里，只要有孩子们的身影，就会有几丝的慰藉，他们会毫无保留地向我们路过的车辆举手敬礼，无论是男孩女孩，无论他们是在赶路还是在河边捶打着衣物，无论是背着书包还是空手一人，他们都会举起小手，嘴里似乎还天真而激动地呼喊着些什么，那一刻，真的感动和爱怜得有些醉了，于是，我也会情不自禁地挥起自己的手……
（2003年10-11月）
作者：ahxg
