Shanghai - Suzhou, a tourism zz from sina, tourism, travel tools description
1, the train
T716 Shanghai - Shanghai, Suzhou, Nanjing Express 10:00 10:40
T715 Nanjing - Shanghai, Suzhou Shanghai Express 17:54 18:42
Note: Be sure to look at train schedules in advance, the website for reference only http://www.ctrip.com/supermarket/train/trainsearch_1.asp; Suzhou to Shanghai by train is very tense, must be purchased in advance.
2, bus tour a road: Tiger Chiusi Villa Park, Lingering Garden Huanxiu Guanqian Street (Grace) Xuanmiao Temple Humble Administrator's Garden Lion Grove (Suzhou Museum, Folk Museum) North pagoda Silk Museum Station Tour 2 Road: Tiger Qiu Qing Tong Station North pagoda in Humble Administrator's Garden (Lion Grove) view of Front Street Towers Nets Garden Canglang Ting Pan Gate Scenic Tour 3 Road: Railway Station, West Park, Cold Mountain Temple, Suzhou park clear pond water park Imperial Garden Road Tour 4: Train Station Silk Museum, North Temple Pagoda Guanqian Yiyuan Tang Yin Yin Ma Bridge, the tomb of Hengshan mazhuang Canglang Ting Phoenix Cemetery, West Kuatang Mudu statement Gardens lingyan shan Road, Tin Ping Shan Tour 5: Phase Gate Towers Humble Administrator's Garden Lion Grove plate gate scenic Note: Take this Wu Lu car can cover essentially all of the area, please optimistic about the direction of moving buses.
3, taxis, Suzhou City is very small, attractions in close proximity, about 15 yuan or so can change from one attraction to the next attraction.
4, accommodation you can choose hotels; but I think your choice of bath is somewhat better, Suzhou relatively large bath with Dragon King and the Great World; Dragon King in the view of Front Street near the 18 per 1, for an overnight charge 15 yuan a , private room 30 yuan to 12 hours.
5, 117 yuan fare ticket (Humble Administrator's Garden, net Lions Park, Lingering Garden, Park, Lion, Tiger Hill), Cold Mountain Temple 10 yuan, 5 yuan Fengqiao scenic spots
6, the map you can go here to see http://www.aroundsuzhou.com/traffic/suzhoumap.htm; you to Suzhou, with 2 million and 4 yuan two kinds of maps, personally feel that 2 yuan could be getting out a map of 3 yuan determined not to buy.
Second, my experience and attractions guide
At about 9 o'clock to meet at the train station, the results of the first truck is 10 o'clock; to wait until 10 o'clock Take a train, arrived in Suzhou 11 minutes. The train, spent 3 yuan to buy a map (the bulk of the, Robert reminder there are 2 yuan a map); station you are often asked is not tourism, too annoying (Robert think that for the tourist city of Suzhou to create adverse). 2-way on the tour, go to Humble Administrator's Garden, was the result? The car in the wrong direction, and then ride back to the Humble Administrator's Garden (Robert reminded some attention to the direction of the bus).
User's experience according to buy a ticket into the Humble Administrator's Garden. Humble Administrator's Garden was built in the Ming Dynasty, Wang Xianchen the first owner of the park. He Jiajing, Zhengde years Guanju to monitor the Censor in later life career is not proud, dismissed from office and go, to buy land garden, use the "homebound Fu" "clumsy by them as political" sentence was intended to, named for the Humble Administrator's Garden. Park main attractions are: Lan Xue-tang, hibiscus pavilion, Panicum italicum incense Hall, looking booths, far-Xiang Tong, small Canglang, leaving pavilions, such as floating Chui Court.
All park hours east, central, and western, residential four parts. Suzhou is a typical residential house is decorated for the garden museum exhibition. Eastern bright and cheerful, to distant mountains Hiraoka, pine grass, bamboo dock Qushui dominated. Main attractions include: Lan Xue-tang, decorate Yunfeng, hibiscus pavilion, Tianquan Pavilion, Panicum italicum incense museum. Central for the Humble Administrator's Garden essence, water area accounts for 1 / 3 to the water main Ikehiro Shumao scenery nature, roaming among the scenery of the physical layout of mixed high and low scattered buildings, prioritize. Main attractions include: Yuan-Xiang Tong, Xiangzhou, He Feng surrounded by kiosks, see Hill House, a small Feihong, loquat park. The west of the main building as close to the residential side of the mandarin ducks Thirty Six Museum, the pool was L-shaped, which is characterized for the Taiwan Museum of sub-zhi, corridors ups and downs, water reflection, do not have fun and beautifully ornate. Main attractions include: Thirty Six mandarin Hall, inverted photo studio, and who is sitting in the same Xuan, water, gallery and so on.
East Park, Lan Xue Tang introduced the eastern part of the main hall, Church Natori indulging in Li Bai's "independence between heaven and earth, breeze sprinkle blue Snow" poem. Founded in Chong Zhen eight years (1635), according to park owner Wang a "return home vegetable garden," records, Lan Xue Ying Tong, five thatched cottage, "things that laurel for the screen, then there are mountains, such as sites, all kinds of vertical and horizontal plum. plum other than a bamboo, bamboo Pro shag, Danmu Vatican sound, from the bamboo in the past, "the environment enclosed. In front two bungeana vigorous Guzhuo, tall bamboo wall, dripping green, lake exquisite stone, grass folder tracks, anything connected walls. Church faces south three-bay, "Lan Xue Tong" plaque hanging, long window landing Hall separated the middle of a screen door, screen door south of a carved lacquer, "Humble Administrator's Garden panoramic map" screen door north of the "Bamboo Chart "The paint used in all the traditional carved Suzhou, process, screen door on both sides of the apron carved figures Ge Shan mountains.
Infix Yunfeng Lan Xue Tong North, mountains towering in the shade of bamboo trees, Shanxi, North Twin protesting, called the "coat-bi." Infix Yunfeng, together wall peak for the return home of the garden vegetable garden spots. Wang a "return to home vegetable garden in mind," Blue Snow In front is a pool, "pool south peak special effect, cloud decorate the tree tip of branch, name, called augmented Yunfeng. Bingzhi pool left two peaks, such as the palm, such as sails, that the Joint wall peak. "two peaks of the late Ming and Stones masters like Chen Yun works used by lake stones, exquisite Xirun to snow ZHAO Yuan Dynasty landscape painting as a template. Augmented form of bottom-up Yunfeng gradually swelled, its summit Euwe, like clouds like, Kui-Ran independent, next to no support. 1943 Summer Night, augmented Yunfeng suddenly dumping injure. Later, in the garden of experts under the guidance of Peter Wang stars re-stacked in a this high Liang Zhang, Ling-Yao Jiao's Qifeng, and now this peak mottled moss, vines Fenpi, there are many old-fashioned.
Lotus pavilion pavilion is a beautiful ancient Chinese architectural forms, with the surrounding landscape and the composition, the form of flexible. Lotus pavilion roof Juanpeng Xieshan Ding, Fei Qiao corners, half built on the shore, half stretch the water, and spirit empty shelf in the water waves, the standing water's edge, beautiful Qian Qiao. This pavilion facing the wide pool, water Qing-Qing, Shang He is a good place for summer. Walking Hibiscus pavilion, lean on a railing around us, we can see pool of green, Fendai water, romantic beauty in the blue water like a fairy slim and graceful flow of Meimu hope, a little breeze Zhou Qi, setting off a green wave, sent blowing Hexiang, enjoy a taste of the flowers ... ... charming, elegant, and virtuous of the strength of character.
Tianquan Pavilion is a double eaves and an octagonal pavilion, a tall canopy, external form corridors, dignified simplicity, Wai-chu, had to sit between the threshold, you can take breaks to enjoy. Around the lawn surrounded by flowers and trees lined. Peking Pavilion Gang Xiao-Po, lush forest. Pavilion reason for taking "Tianquan" is the name because it has a well below, this well all year round does not dry up, water quality, sweet, they have been referred to as "Tianquan." According to "Qianlong Cheung Chau County," recorded in the Yuan Dynasty Dade years, this temple is called with a large Hong Temple. It took another 100 next year, the remaining Ze monks live here, and built an "East Studios." Fasting before wells, called "Tianquan." Suzhou is flooding rivers and lakes, rivers and more bridges and more wells will be done, but was go down in history is rare. Wang Yi-Jian "return home vegetable garden", the retention of these wells, also added a dash of the garden pastoral scenery.
Panicum italicum Hall Panicum italicum fragrant incense, fragrance rice refers to the previous wall Jie Wei farmland, harvest season, autumn rice sent waves of fragrance, heady, museum its name. Panicum italicum incense for the eastern part of the main museum building, surface water, The Hills, in order to Danyanxieshan structure, bright and spacious interior, long windows boxwood carvings on the apron, a total of 48, fate, according to experts to research, one for "The West Chamber" , another for the "golden ear with shrimp paste." The "West Chamber" one, there "will be Yuanyang Zhang jump off the wall", "copy red", "Changting Farewell" and other scenes Diaolou fine, the level of rich, lifelike. Sunset, afterglow touch of incense floating down the Panicum italicum museum's floor length windows. The apron with exquisite wood carvings, the Museum of Panicum italicum decorated ancient incense elegant, do not have fun.
Han-Qing Ting landscape architecture, in order to change a multi-kiosk. Pavilion is a not only the roof of the hut walls, exquisite light, generally from the roof, columns and story platform and three body parts. In the garden can be points, scenery, viewing, but also for human rest, enjoy the cool air, shelter from the rain. Humble Administrator's Garden Pavilion is not only more, but different forms. Han-Qing Ting live in one corner, the scope of relatively cramped space. However, gardeners in order to make the end of the tall white walls, built of a combination of semi-pavilion, a master from the two main pavilion singled out on the water surface above the flat seat, like Chinese Room, both sides of the Vice-ting slightly to the back, about North Korea started, it seems another non-Corridor Gallery, the main pavilion made two opposite direction, the Deputy Pavilion issued an opposite direction, the entire pavilion is like an artful Phoenix, to the originally straight, monotonous walls fluttering added momentum. Reclining beauty Tingbian by a small sitting, sunlight and white clouds of water, the koi traveling in the Netherlands lotus light swing.
The park introduced the complex gallery leaning Rainbow Pavilion straight west on the winding corridors, sitting East, west, behind the promenade meandering, before Mizuki Kuang Yuan, is to enter the garden after an excellent viewing point. Ting the right is a bamboo youju Wu, tingqian have a bluestone bridge, the name "Sentiments of Hongqiao," Qiao Lan, stone embody the style of the Ming Dynasty, Ming Dynasty seems Humble Administrator's possessions. Standing Kiosk, in the middle open water, Quqiao split water. Summer, full lotus pond Hongchangcuigai, a southern style. Shade depths loom a beautiful, exquisite pagoda, which is used by the King of the way, will park outside Qian Yumi away by the admission of the North Temple Pagoda. A means "King" and "far borrowing" a good example.
Wu Bamboo youju architectural style, the idea of clever and unique bamboo youju Wu is a pavilion for viewing the main east central pool scene. Citing periphery of corridors, Hongzhu white walls, cornices Qiaojiao, back gallery, the face of wide pool, next to parasol shade, bamboo hygiene conditions. Pavilion's wonderful also because the surrounding white walls of the office opened a four round pai lou, the hole loop hole, the hole sets of holes can be seen at different angles staggered overlapping sub-ring, ring, and even the strange circle landscape. 4 hole door not only transparent, light, elegant, but also formed a four windows set off flowers, small bridges, lakes and mountains, Wu Qing-yun beautiful bamboo box View picture, which means Meaningful. "Wu Zhu youju" plaque for Wen Zhengming body. "Shuang-ming through the breeze through the month, moving view of water contemplation Mountain" couplet for the end of the Qing were calligrapher Zhao Zhiqian wrote a book to take on the joint used in conjunction two words, point out the human and Temptress Moon, a close harmony with nature, feelings; the second line is with a dynamic one static and one virtual one real mutual background, contrast, exist side by side.
Xuexiang Yun Wei Ting Xuexiang means plum. Yun Wei, means flowers flourish. Citing suitable for early spring shower the plum, the pavilion next to the plant plum, subtle fragrance floats. Around the bamboo green, lush forests, winding river plate line, and quite interesting cities in the mountains. Pavilion for the rectangular pool in central and western territories in the mountains, look simple and light and plaques Kiosk "Sange between wild birds" as the contemporary painter Qian Jun匋the book.
Harvest Park Pavilion growing number of loquat tree, loquat fall pregnant bud, winter flowers, spring results, summer, mature, and contains the four seasons of the gas, forming numerous Kanemaru. Harvest Pavilion, both of South Park, a tribute to the name, but also symbolize the harvest festival. Ting the middle of the wall has opened a square Chuang Dong, window hole is the side of Taihu Dan, stone next winter there is bloom in summer there are banana to form a natural three-dimensional picture. By loquat Park pai lou, Harvest kiosks and Xuexiang the formation of clouds Wei-ting a set of scene, this is the art of gardening is one way.
Ting Ting Yuxuan east of the Harvest, with the surrounding construction Qulang phase. Xuan ago Yihong water, planted with flowers; side of the pool are plantains, Bamboo, Hsuan after a cluster of banana cultivation, before and after the form a contrast. Southern Tang poets Li during the Five Dynasties period, there poem reads: "listen to the rain autumn bamboo, leaving follow-old chess Monk"; the Song Dynasty poet, Yang Wanli, "Autumn Rain sighed," The poem reads: "Banana Leaf Semi-yellow lotus leaf-Bi, two autumn one voice" ; modern Suzhou weeks Shoujuan home gardening "banana" poem reads: "A banana leaves, drizzly rain, dream heard Suiyu still sound." here, plantains, green bamboo, the leaves are, regardless of seasons, as long as a rainy night, as rain falls on different plants, plus listen to the rain, people's mindsets different, since to hear a taste of all the rain, a perfect realm, do not have flavor.
Malus Spring dock leaning Rainbow Promenade winds through the east wall displaying exquisite museum homes are separated by small independent spring crabapple dock. Books-style brick chic style places, the wall embedded in the hospital. Begonia hospital a few trees in early spring Blossoms looks, modesty, such as Zi Yan Xiaojiabiyu show quality, there is absolutely superior class beauty. Literati whom emotional Acura. Garden shop to use three colors red, white and blue pebble mosaic pattern made crabapple. Hospital coffee table decorative patterns are patterns Begonia. There are many attractions title, garden, though small, quiet elegant, is the ideal of leisure reading.
Yuan-Xiang Tong Yuan-Xiang Tong, surrounded by Hall, is the Humble Administrator's Garden in central main building, in the original Ming Zhengde if the villa site of the Church, for the time of the Qing Emperor Qianlong built bluestone Wu Ji was the original. It is surface water and build, Dan Yan Xie Shanding, Miankuo 3. Church North platform, spacious, clean water Kuang Lang. Hechi wide Hongchangcuigai, pleasant fragrance. Church Natori Zhou Dun-yi, "Reminiscence" and "Hong Yuan Yi-ching," the famous line, water planted lotus, named for the Netherlands. Summer pool, lotus leaf Tada, He Feng Pumian, fragrance far to send, is Shang He's good at. Park owner to take flowers speaks for itself, expressing the gardener noble sentiments. Delicate clear glass halls decorated floor length windows, specifications and tidy, due to the long windows and penetrate air, surrounded by a taste of the scenery, mountain light water, shadow, panoramic view, as if viewing landscape scroll. Elegant and refined furnishings.
Small Feihong Suzhou Water Village, Humble Administrator's Garden is a water park, there is water there must be bridges. Humble Administrator's Garden, there are stone Itabashi, stone arch bridge and so on, the small Feihong the type system is very special. Suzhou garden the only covered bridges. Northern and Southern Song Dynasty Baozhao take "Bai Yun" Poem "Tiao Fei-Hong Qin River, pan-fog light strings get named." Zhu Qiao Lan reflected upside-red water, water sparkling, just like Feihong, so that the name. Rainbow, is across the earth Once the storm is a brilliant color bridge, the ancients in order to rainbow bridge metaphor, the intention wonderful. It is not only to connect water and land, but will also form the bridge as the center with a unique landscape. Xiaofei Qiao body for the three cross-beams, slightly arched, showing eight-character type. There million words on both sides of the bridge parapet, three eight columns, covering Gallery houses decorated with upside down under the eaves Fang Mei son, the bridge at both ends connected with the Qulang is a beautiful covered bridges.
Small Canglang take small Canglang Song Su Shun-qin "Canglang Ting," called the Pavilion name implies recluse Hermitage. Delightful Miankuo 3, south window sills north, the two faces of water, the appearance is very unique, like rooms of non-room, seemed to be boats of non-boat, like the bridge of non-bridge, completely on a rack in the water Shuige. Shuige across Ikegami, will surface again, broken down into this end of the tail in the water park was to create a seemingly endless stretches, superb artistic. Pavilion, surrounded by the tranquility of water constitute the open hospital. Past the ancient city of Suzhou literati, elite government officials a number of others, whether it is China or in the general housing estates mansions, have special attention to the modification of a small space, this small space is the courtyard, and the water garden is a small Canglang this unique one hand, it reflects the Jiangnan style, on the other hand, due to water landscaping, courtyards with each other inside and outside the building by the King and a special cool environment.
Wind in the pines Shuige pine, bamboo and plum in the Chinese traditional culture known as the "three friends of winter" in the literary impressionistic garden, especially love for the cultivation of such "than Germany," the plant, to express the owner's thoughts and feelings. The cold does not withered pine, evergreen, the ancients would be the metaphor for those who have noble moral sentiments. Song of the vigorous Guzhuo posture is often painted into the map of the Chinese garden, one of the main tree species. Matsukaze Shuige also known as "listen to Shofu office" is to look at the pine Kikunami. Save this Shuige sharp rectangular space enclosed by the gallery between the door and out the other three sides, plus a half semi-wall windows structure. Roofs have large eaves, cornices Qiqiao particularly high, showing trippingly want to fly, elegant ethereal elegance of, the entire building instead of using structured just north of due south direction, but in excess of 45 degrees oblique angle volley shelf in water can be Yang avoid ventilation, best suited to summer viewing. Pavilion side of the number of trees planted with pine, the wind blowing, pine away movement, Greenfield sounds, color sound are prepared, is tastefully in a landscape.
Xiangzhou Xiangzhou as "Fang" type structure, there are two cabin floor, quintana free and easy elegance and their poise silhouetted in the water, even more Qian Li and elegant. Xiangzhou sustenance of the literati ideals and sentiments. Xiangzhou, using a Qu Yuan's lines, "angel," the story, "Songs of the South" has to "take the angel Come Kakitsubata, will be left Xi maid" in a sentence. Ancient often use herbs to describe the people with lofty, here to Lotus landscape to metaphorical vanilla, and very decent. Classical gardens in China, a large number of stone boat, the Humble Administrator's Garden Xiangzhou probably be called a form of the most beautiful one. The bow of Taiwan, front cabin is the Pavilion, in the cabin for the pavilion, the stern is the Court, Court played floor, gentle ups and downs, the proportion of the size of properly, reminiscent of ancient times, Suzhou, Hangzhou, Yangzhou mountain area of soft warm water, boats such as the cloud picture. Xiangzhou in the water's edge, just east and west north-south to the river flow and the junction, is surrounded by water, one side according to shore, formed by the three stones of a springboard to boarding of the "boat", standing on the bow, wave ripples from the surrounding open and bright, Manyuan Xiuse, it is cool heart. Sun heat, but here, He Feng bursts, raise the eyes cool. Xiangzhou bow on the question hanging there Wen Zhengming write the amount of future generations is also designed specifically for inscriptions. Xiangzhou this Han Chuan, construction methods and elegant compact, attractive, people feel a kind of virtuous personality pursuit.
He Feng Ting-ting have been wounded by the Netherlands on all sides are derived from the central pool is situated in the garden islands, all surrounded by water, the lake a net plant Lotus Hong Kingston, Lake switchgrass Cecil whirling, Dan Yan hexagonal pavilion surrounded by transparent, booth there hold column joint: "Lotus surrounded on three sides, Liu, semi-relaxed and a Fangshan Tan." used here is very appropriate. Especially the joint of the "wall" with the word well, is the most open pavilion buildings, no walls between columns, so line of sight is not blocked, I feel empty transparent and bright, Although there is no wall, but on three sides, lush riparian willows seamless, 4 weeks surrounded by hibiscus nestling not Mimizaza to Wai Hong has become a soft green wall do? Moving exaggerated and rich imagination, make this an increasingly diverse island kiosk, Ting-ting, pleasant. Wind walls move, the green waves rolling, fragrance lovers, color, smell, shape superb. Chunliu light, Sappho Yan, relaxed and Ming, tungshan quiet, He Feng pavilion surrounded by the summer of summer is not only the most suitable, and all-season. He Feng surrounded by it from a height overlooking the pavilion, the whole pavilion out of the water, cornices Chutiao, Hongzhu upright, base jade white, is clearly a full embrace of a lotus pond Guang Cancan pearl.
See Hill House Hill House is surrounded by water, see, on both sides of Bangshan, from the west through the flat into the bottom of the covered bridges, while the upstairs will have to climb through the gallery or rockery stone steps. It is a southern-style residential-style buildings, double eaves and Juan Peng, Xie Shanding, steep powder wall Daiwa, color elegant, Ming Wa upstairs window, maintaining the simplicity of the wind. The bottom is called "lotus Champs," the water along the outer gallery is located by the king, by virtue of rest may be near when the concept of fish, the reward lotus, Zhu Jing-Yuan is the park in front of the picturesque generally start slowly. To see the mountain top floor, Tao once wrote, said: "Mining Ju Dong-li, the leisurely to see the mountain." Gochang this floor can be beautiful panoramic view of the park. New Jade Spring beauties, Colorful; summer Xun Feng Xu, the Hexiang rounds; autumn pool Lo Tik wind, cold blows; Full House warm sun during the winter, snow and pleasant. Previously, no high-rise buildings in Suzhou city, Tang F, long-term perspective this may be overlooking the outskirts of mountains. According to legend, the house Qing Xianfeng, the Taiping-zhong WANG Li Xiucheng-year period of office of the. Miyama-storey without danger-Song and smooth, with the surrounding landscape constitute a balanced picture.
Magnolia Hall Magnolia Hall, is an independent closed the quiet courtyard, it is in Humble Administrator's Garden, owner of residential areas and the junction area is the park owner had met with the guests and handling the daily affairs of the main venues, Magnolia Hall A spacious courtyard sleek . Tall brick wall, as if drawing paper, wall painting rattan grass, walls are built under the flower beds, planting holly and bamboo, with a few peaks Stone Lake, Magnolia, and sweet-scented osmanthus, color, aroma and pleasant. Magnolia Hall has name "pen Flower Church", and Wen Zheng-ming former residence of the "pen Flower Church," the same name. This shows that the original park owner and Wen Zheng-ming Wang Xianchen intimate relationship between the different general; Furthermore, "Dream pen flower" is also a scholar in ancient times as a pursuit of creative inspiration. In this study painting in fact this is a great enjoyment of life.
West Park, introduced the appropriate two booths left in the Journey Into Amazing Caves, stacked with a rockery. Rocks along the stone paths, there is a hexagonal pavilion at the Peak, which is "appropriate two booths." It is squat in the park and the western boundaries of the cloud garden wall, kiosk-based high six home side window pane for the plum blossom design. Board should two pavilions overlooking the central sights. From Garden View, from the progressive layers of scenery was launched, should highlight the two kiosks in the gallery above the ridge so that the whole scenery in the garden has become endless stretches to form a very far-reaching landscape of space, which is gardening skill "neighbors borrowing" a typical example. "Should two" comes from an interesting story. Tang Po Chu-yuan were simple knot with the adjacent door, courtyard with tall willow stuck in the wall for two Gongshang. Bai Ju-yi praise poetry: "The Moon a good path with three nights for two green Yi-Chun" in order to describe the people in the neighborhood live in harmony. At that time, Humble Administrator's Garden in the Garden and the West belong to all the 2, West Park, the owner did not build high-rises, instead heap mountains built pavilion. Western companies to watch in the booth he was very much the envy of the park scenery, while the park owner in the garden can also taste some high-rise overlooking the Pavilion through kiosks into the scenery, a rich landscape, would it not Miaozai! A pavilion should 2, Tim King added with more intelligence, and thus, a good poetry, a much-told story, has created a wonderful pavilion, a landscape.
Wave Gallery in the West Park and in the garden at the junction of a water gallery, is rarely seen elsewhere, good structure. From the plane point of view, water Gallery was "L"-shaped ring pool layout, divided into two sections, Linshuei and build, the southern section of the entrance from the Journey Into Amazing Caves, to the Thirty Six Mandarin Ducks Hall only; northern section of the stop down photo studio, floating in the water. Here is a wall separating the original, the West Garden wall of water as a horizontal dividing line between the two parks, where the planning was torn into the King. Clever craftsmen through the wall for the Gallery, Ling water built at an absolutely ingenious survival tactics to break the garden wall stiffness, boring situation, the gallery's lower overhead, as if at large in general, depending on water potential作成ups and downs, bending twists and turns like, so that the resilience of the landscape space, with rhythm and pace of the United States. From south to north, after a series of morphological changes, the sudden appearance of a significant turning point, pull it to the wall some distance away from the park to make it prominent in the pool on top of paste with low water, about volley, gallery top cover change, such as kiosks, Linshuei Branch Li-chu, two small stone balustrades, like stool in general, in the corridors near the inverted waveform near end office photo studio, set up a hole in its lower water tunnel, so that across the gallery too, so park in the western river systems interlinked, Gallery body also overstating to the highest point. If the distance, water Gallery, Piansi Changhong lying waves, imposing extraordinary.
Thirty Six West Garden Center Yuanyang the main building, beautifully ornate, Southern called "18 Mandala Flower Pavilion", the North called "Thirty Six Mandarin Ducks Hall." A building at the same time there are two names, which is ancient buildings in the form of a mandarin duck hall to screen, cover, yarn Ge will be a hall is divided into two, beams with the flat side of material, they use round material, like two - hall merger, its role is appropriate for the southern half of the winter, spring, northern half of the desirability of summer and autumn. Mandarin Duck Hall Miankuo 3, look for the hard-Peak, flat square shape and are built Siyu sharp corners save exquisite penthouse, called Snappers. Northern half of the pick on the water surface, from 8 columns shore museum body aircraft in Ikegami. Ginkgo wood carving museum's central hall, a glass screen will be separated into two. North Hall (rear hall) Linqing pool, summer, autumn, when your window can be seen in He Chi Fu Qu float, mandarin ducks playing in the water, the Eastern Han Dynasty General Huo Guang big "(in) the garden digging a large pool, plant colored water lily, the raising of Thirty Six pairs of mandarin ducks , hope of illuminating as heavenly Phi Kam, "Hall were allowed a free choice meaning of plaque for-wen Hong Jun-year period, Suzhou scholar wrote. Since ancient times, Suzhou talent, the number of Ming and Qing Dynasties scholar highest in the country, Hong Jun is one of them. He became a folk legend with a legendary figure, mostly because he married a generation of Sai Jinhua concubine courtesan. Sai Jinhua's story was being written novels, Hong Jun is all the more famous. South Hall is a 18 Datura stramonium Museum, appropriate for winter, spring residence and offices of the South Xiangyang, small courtyard, walls both warm wind also gather and make room have adequate sunlight. Datura stramonium or camellias. Qing Dynasty, Zhang Luqian to build this museum had planted 18 rare camellias, winter flowers are dying out, but such as the Ao of the bloom camellia Yanhong fighting snow, "a tree 10000 Qi swallow fire, snow red-hot half-days." Performance a vigorous vitality, and demonstrates the unique beauty of this plaque is a late Qing Dynasty in Suzhou Museum, another scholar Lu Jun-xiang's inscription. Lu Hung scholar candidate and then in Suzhou, where Hong, Lu euphony "red, green," the Red (Hong) a green (land) with-eup, two scholar to write the same building plaque for the hall elegance. Thirty Six Mandarin Ducks used a continuous four-volume museum ceiling arch-shaped, both curved appearance, cover top of the beams, but also take advantage of this arc-shaped roof to reflect sound, enhance the sound, making residual sound curl, linger linger. Friends of the owner of this feast, parlor, leisure, the environment elegant, in the hall paved side red Qu Shu, piper get xiao yin singing songs. Antique furnishings, paintings hanging panel, furniture and furnishings to configure precise and appropriate.
Inverted inverted photo studio photo studio to watch the reflection in the water-based attractions. House divided into two levels, downstairs is a "worship Wen Yi Shen's Studio", the text refers to the Wen Zheng-ming, Shen refers to the Shen Zhou (Ishida), which are two of Suzhou famous painter, Shen Zhou Wen Zheng-ming, or the teacher . Humble Administrator's Garden of the famous Yangtze River, with the great painter, poet Wen Zhengming inseparable. At that time, the main West Yuanyuan Zhang Luqian to express their admiration at the Guangxu two decades (1894) purpose-built for this House to mark the occasion, he will own collection Wen Zheng-ming, Shen Ishida portrait and the "Wang Zhuo G Park, Kee "rubbings, as well as Lu Shu-Yu Su," added Park in mind, "stone embedded in the downstairs around Liang Bi. Apron on the middle of painting and calligraphy engraved Zheng Banqiao authentic. Surface water in the column on one side of the long inter-installed exquisite transparent windows, the window there is a low wooden columns. Written just the opposite direction, present their water viewing. Accompanied by a wave corridor left and right to have "and who is sitting in the same Xuan", especially the reflection of these picturesque scenes do into the eyes. Underwater moon, pool, clouds, wave shadow floating, great scenery. Upstairs was originally a gardener daughter of Wang's study. This floor, surrounded by sweet-scented osmanthus planted numerous autumn tours strike Withered reward Gui, cinnamon, such as wine is drunk. Whether reading parts calligraphy, painting, or poetry, viewing self-entertainment, are the environment, pleasant, sweet fragrance.
Who is sitting in the same kiosk with a very chic Xuan, Xiu-folding fan-shaped. Su has the word "Who sitting in the same? Moon, breeze, I", therefore called "Who sitting in the same Xuan." Xuan was built according to the water, flat fan shape, roofing, Xuan door, Chuang Dong, table, stone stool, and Xuan top, lamp, wall plaques, gooseneck chair, half-columns are into fan-shaped, it is also known as "Fan Pavilion. " Within the fan Chuang Dong Xuan Du Fu's poem hanging on both sides together "exalted as to be, syphilis from the selfless." Kiosks located in the foothills of fan water's edge, very good location, tree height and the male, stone buildings vigil, people in Xuan, no matter Wang Yi Men and yes, lean on a railing overlooking, or under the window of myopia, small sitting rest, can find beauty all around, constantly. In the fan-ting the soil after the hill there is a kiosk, called "Rittei." "Li" or skin of bamboo hat, kiosks for rounded shape at the top of a more gentle slope, just as a skin of bamboo hat, set off in the exuberant foliage of the Cao Shu, the discard all decoration, minimalist simplicity. Hill kiosk micro, with symmetry, lined tingqian landscape, just like a Dai Li fisherman fishing leisurely. Predecessors had Xieci praise: "The Inter-radish flower tread marks a blue, smoke cloud edge loophole danger pavilion. Li-card before the League eaves Mino sleeve of a robe, exactly right fishing Ting. Red edge implicit Xia Temple, green, wrinkled paintings Jiangcheng. Huai Ya-ling Liu Heng Long around, sitting listening to cry Ying. "Who sitting in the same Court and Rittei are two different kinds of landscape architecture and art are also rare in the classical gardens in the pictographic building. Pavilion, Xuan integration seamless. Rittei mountains have a double octagonal building, the tall and magnificent, Shashi attention. Dense forest hills, green grass and green building seems to float in a shade, and so they called the "floating Tsui Court." Style high-rise volley, elevation Ge fan decorated with exquisite paintings. Golden Pavilion overlooking the four weeks, the whole green hills and clear waters, sky was clear and green beauties with one of great vitality and makes people feel good, music is not thinking back. Fan Pavilion, Rittei, floating Tsui Court, followed by location near the water, mountains, the Mountain, they are of various shapes, sizes, from low to high, and step by step, like scales in the duo, Lai, microphones, all in one, so that who revel in the sweet melody of years.
Office of Court House to remain as a single-layer, lightweight body, surrounded by windows, Pavilion front platform, Genei Perhaps the most interesting is the three-dimensional carved wooden ginkgo Qing Song, bamboo, plum, magpie flying cover, relief, Lou carves, sculpture in the round The combination of blade skill, skilled, clever idea, the "three friends of winter" and "magpie Mui" two kinds of soft patterns together, seams leave no trace, nature itself, the garden is a rare flying cover fine. From the overall shape of view, to stay to listen to-ko is an abstraction of the boat hall, hall before the platform, such as the bow. The left side of the pond planted with lotus, lotus during the growth of its leaves, bud, flower, fruit Zi Jie You have state, viewing period of expertise, from the spring and early summer the surface of the green emitting little money into the summer season pool of canopy, Can Hua thick leaves until autumn, each stage has its unique beauty. As the saying goes, flower hundred days of red, the flowers and then the United States ultimately "grind to dust scattered into the mud," Canhuabaiye people dwellers of the bleak evening scene, except they do not charge dry autumn pond there is a fragmentary conception of beauty, Li Shang-yin have "to stay too Withered Lotus Sound", once said, to stay to listen to the Court is to take the name of this poetic. Flowers thank you, people have old, King still around, love memorable, touch human mind, hair people meditate. "Dream of Red Mansions" back to 44th, Jia Baoyu and Lin Dai-yu riding riding Gusu mother stays immobile wood-fang in the water swim tours, Tai-yu see the lotus pool of water, said that I most do not like Yi-shan's poem, Hi, he is only a "keeping many Withered Lotus Sound ... ..." Lin Tai-yu is a highly literate woman, sentimental, extremely intelligent, but aloof aloof from worldly affairs, unwilling to follow the crowd, that is why right phrase to express Lengji Lishangyin quiet beauty poems resonate. Although this is where the description of literary works, but she appreciated such a poetic realm also appears in the Humble Administrator's Garden in the West garden. The Sound Of Nature Nature in China, or the magnificent gardens to play a tune of joy, or joy, or beauty of movement.
Citing from the top in the end Ta Ying Ting Wing and the surrounding panes were being octagonal pattern, is the garden, one of the finest buildings in gorgeous. Court stay to listen to berth, looking back Taying kiosks, to feel a wonderful letter. Widened the narrow vertical water level, separated a certain distance from the inlet of the Zongshen Gan on the enhanced, then save the tip of an octagonal pavilion and India into the water, like a pagoda, dignified contend. True false pavilion tower, connected actual situation is, after all the western garden a unique landscape. In the Humble Administrator's Garden, there are two related to landscape and pagodas. A rainbow in the reliance by the park kiosk to look too far outside the Northern Pagoda, there is a water feature is made of it by Taying Pavilion. Seen in the garden pagoda is an entity, while in the west garden of the pagoda is a virtual body seen. Whether Magenta afar, or false tower close up, have produced a wealth of associations people left a deep impression. Taying kiosk location is not prominent, has reached the end of the garden. Smart owner built in the water will do at a kiosk that if the entire West Park, compared to a melody and beautiful music, then Ta Ying-ting is the last one note. Music grinds to a halt people feel awkward, but here is formed with the Ta Ying-ting a complete movement. And even better, not only have booths, as well as shadow, just as the final song left behind audio and awakens without a break, people aftertaste.
In the Humble Administrator's Garden walk inside, feeling really good, beautiful scenery, no matter what the perspective of both a picture.
Lion Grove next target, do not listen to that carrier tricycle in front of you for a lion from the Humble Administrator's Garden very close to, and take two minutes to go. Less gossip Syria see description bar.
I. A Brief History of Lion Grove Lion Grove is located in Suzhou City, Jiangsu Province, northeast corner of Garden Road, No. 23, open area of about 14 acres. Classical Gardens of Suzhou Lion Grove is one of the representatives will be included in the "World Heritage List," with China remaining the largest group of ancient rockery. Rockery superb lake, known as the "rockery kingdoms."
Lion Grove was built in the Yuan Dynasty. AD 1341, days such as the Zen monk came to Suzhou preaching embraced by his disciples. Yuan to positive two years (1342), his disciples for the days to buy land estates such as the Zen Buddhist temple built. Days such as the Zen master in the peak due to a monk attained enlightenment at Zhejiang and Jiangxi Tianmushan Lion Rock, to commemorate their own shop, called "sub-division forest", and also because the park over rocks, shaped like a lion, Yiming, "Lion Grove." Highest peak in the park as "Lion Peak", another "with Hui", "spit on" and other names peak, construction of "Li Xue Tang", "lying cloud chamber", "means joined the league," "asked meige", etc. . Park more than bamboo, bamboo Zen abbot between the Jie Mao's nest, built a "curling into the", "Yu Kam-pool", "small Feihong (bridge)." Park is completed, a time when many artists come to practice Zen poets, Poetry and the inclusion of "apprenticeship, Lin Ji Sheng collection." Famous words are: Zhu Deren's "Lion Grove map", Ni Zan (No. Yunlin) The "lion's plaza panorama banner," Ben Xu's "Lion Grove 12 attractions map." (Ni Zan and Xu Ben's paintings in the Qing Dynasty by the Royal collection, modern times have Nobumitsu room photocopies of the original works in current whereabouts are unknown). Lion Grove this reputation significantly, to Yuanmomingchu, the Quartet has become a famous scholar and write poetry and painting of the land.
If Zen Master Xie days after the disciples dispersed gradually deserted temple garden. Seventeen years Ming Wanli (1589), Ming Xing mendicant monks of due to Chang, reconstruction Lion Grove Sung-eun Temple, Buddhist temple hall, reproduce thriving scene. To the reign of Emperor Kangxi, the Temple, garden separated from the father of post-Xi Huang, Hampshire prefect Huang Xing-Zu bought the name "garden-related." Sanshiliunian the Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong (1771), Huang Xi high school champion, intensive mansion, re-engineering courtyard, called the "five song won." To the middle of the Qing dynasty, Huang Iemichi decline, Park has dumped ?Y, but still a rockery. 1917年,上海颜料巨商贝润生(世界著名建筑大师贝聿铭的叔祖父)从民政总长李钟钰手中购得狮子林,花80万银元,用了将近七年的时间整修,新增了部分景点,并冠以“狮子林”旧名,狮子林一时冠盖苏城。贝氏原准名筹备开放,但因抗战暴发未能如愿。贝润生1945年病故后,狮子林由其孙贝焕章管理。解放后,贝氏后人将园捐献给国家,苏州园林管理处接管整修后,于1954年对公众开放。
二、狮子林的主要特点
1.以“假山王国”著称于世。
狮子林假山是中国古典园林中堆山最曲折,最复杂的实例之一。元末明初建园时,搜集了大量北宋“花石纲”的遗物,经过叠石名家的精妙构思,假山群气势磅礴,以“适、漏、瘦、皱”的太湖石推叠的假山,玲珑俊秀,洞壑盘旋。象一座曲折迷离的大迷宫。假山上有石峰和石笋,石缝间长着古树和松柏。石笋上悬葛垂萝,富有野趣。假山分上、中、下三层,共有9条山路、21个洞口。沿着曲径磴道上下于岭、峰、谷、坳之间,时而穿洞,时而过桥,高高下下,左绕右拐,来回往复,奥妙无穷。两人同时进山分左右路走,只闻其声不见其人,少顷明明相向而来,却又相背而去。有时隔洞相遇是可望而不可及。眼看“山穷水尽疑无路”,一转身“柳暗花明又一村”。一边转,一边可欣赏千姿百态的湖石,多数像狮形,大小小有五百来头,有怒吼的,有憨睡的,有嬉戏打闹的,或躺或立,或大或小,或肥或瘦。也有像鼋的,像鱼的,像鸟的。还可找到十二生肖图,真叫人看得眼花缭乱。在假山顶上,耸立着著名的五峰:居中为狮子峰,形如狮子;东侧为含晖峰,如巨人站立,左腋下有穴,腹部亦有四穴,在峰后可见空穴含晖光:吐月在西,势峭且锐,傍晚可见月升其上。两侧为立玉、昂霄峰及数十小峰相映成趣。清代文人朱炳靖钻过假山后写道:“对面石势阻,回头路忽通。如穿几曲珠,旋绕势嵌空,如逢八阵图,变化形无穷。故路忘出入,新术迷西东。同游偶分散,音闻人不逢。”确实,把狮子林假山迷宫比作诸葛亮的八阵图,毫不为过。个中滋味,非亲临不能体察也。
2.与佛教有着千丝万缕的关系。
狮子林是禅宗寺庙园林,惟则法师为禅宗高僧。园因寺而闻名。在佛学中佛为人中狮子,狮子座为佛之坐处,泛批高僧坐席,林即禅寺。因此,狮子林本身即是一个宗教用语。禅僧以参禅,斗机锋为得道法门,不念佛,不崇拜,甚至呵佛骂祖。所以狮子林不没佛殿,唯树法堂。而建筑题名全都寓以禅宗特色。如立雪堂,为讲经说教之堂。其名取自慧可和尚少林立雪之事:达摩祖师在少林修禅时,慧可为拜师在门外站了一个晚上,积雪没膝,后被达魔祖师收为第子,修成正果成为禅宗二祖。如卧云室,为僧人休居的禅房。还有指析轩、问梅阁等,都是以禅宗公案命名。即便独生子林成为私家园林,这些建筑重建后,题名依然不改,可见狮子林是禅宗与中国园林相互影响的一个详细例证。
3.狮子林对皇家园林的影响。
在狮子林的沧桑变迁中,有一位皇帝对狮子林倍加赞赏。曾五次游览狮子林,并留下大量题字和“御制诗”。他就是清高宗弘历,即乾隆皇帝。乾隆二十二年春(1757),弘历二巡江南到苏州,他取来倪云的狮子林图展卷对照着观赏狮子林。赐匾“镜智圆照”于狮林寺,双题五言诗《游狮子林》,此诗后被刻成御诗碑并新添一景名为“御碑亭”。 1762年,乾隆二游狮子林,因爱其景,为狮林寺题额“画禅寺”,在他临摹的倪云林《狮子林全景图》和倪氏原作上分别题字。将临摹之作“命永藏吴中”。 1765年,狮子林已归黄祖兴所有。乾隆游狮子林后(时称涉园),题下“真趣”匾额,又作“游狮子林即景杂咏”七绝三首、七律一首。回京后在颐和园和承德避暑山庄各信建一座狮子林。 1780年,游狮子林后作《狮子林再叠旧作韵》。 1784年,乾隆再次南巡,见到了徐贲画的《狮子林十二景点图》,十分感慨。游狮子林后,在《游狮子林三叠旧作韵》中写到:“真山古树有如此,胜曰芳春可弗寻。”这位75岁的老人自觉年事已高。只能“他日梦寐游”了。乾隆五次游览狮子林,题写三块匾额,留诗十首、临摹倪云林《狮子林全景图》三幅。在皇家园林掀起了摹拟江南山水,效法江南园林的高潮。 1771年,乾隆在颐和园长春园东北角仿建狮子林,由苏州织造署奉旨将狮子林实景按五分一尺烫样制图送就御览,建成后名景点匾额均由苏州织造制作,送京悬挂。 1774年,承德避暑山庄建成,东部是以假山为主的狮子林,西部是以水池为主的文园,合称“文园狮子林”,乾隆对此园非常喜欢,称之“欲傲金阊未有此”。皇家园林广泛采用了江南园林中廊、桥、漏窗与苏式彩画,引入堆叠假山的各种流派,大大丰富了北方园林的内容,是我园园林艺术史的重要一章。黄熙在中状无后,重修府北,并以乾隆御笔的“真趣”匾额新增“真趣亭”一景,在淡雅的苏州园林中抹上了如此富丽堂皇的一笔,也是皇家园林对苏州私家园林影响力的一个典范。
4.近代建筑与古典园林结合的产物。
狮子林自无代以来,几经荒废,几经兴旺。历次的重修都打上了深深的历史烙印,反映了当时的历史、文化、经济特征。颇具争议的是最后一代园主贝润生对狮子林的重建。清咸丰年间,狮子林年久失修,叠石亭台坍塌;由贝润生购下重修。植花木、浚水池,增建燕誉堂、小方厅、九狮峰、牛吃蟹等景点。园周环以长廊,上置“听雨楼藏帖”、“乾隆御碑”、“文天祥诗碑”等碑刻71块。建湖心亭、九曲桥、石舫、荷花厅、见山楼、人工瀑布等景点,峰石依旧。又购园东住宅,建族校、家祠,在修建过和中采用了部分现代的建筑材料,如水泥、钢筋、彩色玻璃等,修建了部分西洋风格的建筑,留下了造园上的败笔和有争议之处。但也很好地保护了原存的建筑和假山,搜集了大量文物,使一代名园得观光辉。
三、狮子林主要景点燕誉堂:燕誉堂为园内主厅之一,富丽堂皇,高大宏敞,装修精美。名取自《诗经:“式燕且誉,好尔无射”,表示名高禄重,荣宗耀祖。此堂建筑上为鸳鸯厅,正中用屏门一隔为二。染架一面用扁作,一面用圆料。南北二半厅地下、墙上图案各不相同,家具陈设式样各异;南厅有窗,长窗用透明玻璃。北厅无窗,长窗用彩色玻璃。燕誉堂是苏州园林鸳鸯厅中最佳的一例。燕誉堂前庭内,高大的白墙下筑花坛,牡丹丛植,玉兰夹峙,寓意为“玉堂富贵”
九狮峰:九狮峰位于小方厅北亭院内。院内花坛内,有一座高大的太湖石峰。石峰多孔的巨峰,形态俯仰多变,气势雄伟。仔细端详依稀可见九头不同次态的狮子,故名“九狮峰”。此峰用若干块湖石镶嵌接叠,而无斧凿痕迹,叠石技艺相当高超。
指析轩:指析轩是园内正厅,两层楼阁,高爽轩昂。批析轩原为禅僧讲公案、斗机锋的场所,“指柏”是“赵州指柏”的简称。现为贝氏重建,底层有围廊,翻轩有挂落。轩内屏门正上方悬挂光绪进士王同愈所书“揖峰指柏”匾。轩内家俱陈设有天然几、花几、供桌、太师椅、正中置铜鼓,古色古香俗称“诸葛鼓”。登楼南望,可见对面奇石林立,兀峰矗立,即狮子林的假山群。
真趣亭:真趣亭为歇山卷棚顶,三面设置吴王靠。亭内悬挂金底绿字乾隆御笔“真趣”匾,是清高宗弘历1765年所题。亭内雕梁画栋、金碧辉煌,显示出与私家园林截然不同的皇家气派。此处为园中主要观景点,东品百狮山,南赏假山群,西观山林瀑布,低见画亭曲桥,犹如一幅徐徐展开的山水画卷,充满诗情画意。
门厅、轿厅从园林路进入狮子林东大门,即原为承训义庄正门。门上悬乾隆书狮子林御匾。解放前为私宅时,不轻易开启解放后遂辟为狮子林正门,过高槛即是轿厅,为旧时停轿之处,与车门相对的还有西门,两门上方各有砖额,分别题为『右通』、『左达』。
燕誉堂“燕誉堂”出自『诗经』“式燕且誉,好而无射”。燕誉:燕而娱乐之意;无射:始终不已之意。此厅为全园之主厅,原是园主宴客所用。 The hall, which is the more famous gardens in Suzhou Yuanyang Hall. The so-called Mandarin Duck Hall is a hall with the screen door, hanging off the north and south was divided into two parts, seemingly from within the Office of two connected, but the arrangements are different. North Hall of the beam with logs, the South Hall of the beams and columns with square wood, two doors and windows of the Office of patterns, furniture arrangement vary, plaques also have their own title, while the general entertainment hall is the master of the Nan Bin, after church is the hostess of the office meeting with ladies.
小方厅这可不是我们家里的方厅呀。此厅特点为建筑及构件呈正方形,三亭拱卫是一小巧玲珑文会雅集之所。厅背窗下是“金砖”。此砖特别烘制后为清代皇宫铺地专用。厅左右各有大型空窗,东窗外是素芯腊梅,在粉壁映衬下恰如一副腊梅图。西窗外则是城市山林,一派生机。
九狮峰出小方厅,即见厅园中的九狮峰。此峰立于粉墙之前,初看涡孔遍布,无甚奇特,细察似九头小狮自在嬉耍。观赏此石如看空中云多变幻,须配合想象,妙在象与不象之间。庭院内东西各有半亭,挤出空间以突出九狮峰。
指柏轩指柏轩原为禅僧讲公案,斗机锋的场所,现为贝氏重建的大型楼底层有围廊,翻轩有挂落。轩内屏门正中上悬王同愈所书“揖峰指柏”匾。屏门后有楼梯可上楼,三楼又称听雨楼因园主于此收藏『听雨楼帖』,石刻拓片而得名。在此凭窗片而得名。在此凭窗眺望,可见对面奇峰林立。
见山楼此楼推窗可见假山峰,取晋代陶潜:“采菊东篱下,悠然见南山”诗意,故取此名。不过这楼贴近假山,二楼有直接通假山的通道,可谓依山建楼。见山楼的面积仅为指柏轩的十分之一,即衬托出指柏轩的高大,又不与假山争高低,可谓匠心独具。
花蓝厅本名“荷花厅”,民国三十四年曾在此举行苏州侵华日军向中国军队投降仪式。六八年此厅焚毁,后从娄门内郑宅移花蓝厅一座至此。所谓花蓝厅是一种小型厅堂,厅中步柱不落地,改成很短的重莲拄,柱端雕成花蓝状。
真趣“真趣”匾额乃清乾隆帝游狮子林时所题,亭内画栋雕梁金碧辉煌,显示出与素雅的江南园林建筑完全不同的皇家气派。亭四周景色如画,东可见邻水的花篮厅;南则见近处假山与隔水相望的假山群,西边有山林瀑布,向西望去,湖心亭、九曲桥与石拱桥把湖面分隔为近、中、远三景,显得意味深远。
暗香疏影楼此楼楼名出自名句:疏影横斜水清浅,暗香浮动月黄昏。梅贵疏贵斜,忌密忌直,疏梅之影横斜倒映在清浅的水面上,黄昏时分月上枝梢,有暗香浮动,这幽雅醉人的环境,真是赏梅咏梅的佳处.推窗南望,可见红梅绿树,树丛中飞翘的屋檐便是问梅阁。
飞瀑亭由暗香疏影楼南行数步,可见飞瀑亭。此亭为卷棚歇山顶方亭亭南有瀑布自山顶飞流直下,亭中有石桌与四只石鼓墩座此可听水流飞溅声,但因山石树木阻挡,并不能看到瀑布故亭内悬额“听涛”,与湖心亭“观瀑”互相呼应。
石舫在江南的园林里,往往有石船点缀其中,寓园主高洁、脱离尘俗、寄迹江湖之意。这里是仿真石船,尾舱两层,上层通平台,游人可到此眺望远景。石舫上书对联如下:“柳絮池塘春暖,藕花风露宵凉”
湖心亭亭筑于湖中央,故有此名。从亭中西望有瀑布飞泉。瀑布共分五叠,跌入飞溅,故湖心亭中悬匾“观瀑”。湖心亭是观瀑佳处,而它本身又在湖中占中心位置。当游人沿池绕行时,它始终成为视线的焦点。连接亭的九曲桥与南面的拱桥一平一拱、一曲一直、一轻一重,形成了鲜明的对比。
问梅阁此阁是西山中心景物,阁外有梅数枝。阁内窗纹,家具装饰地面花纹皆雕刻成梅花形,屏上书画也都取材梅花。此处乃西部最高处,可以东眺山地,池中有湖心亭架曲桥,全园山色历历在目。
双香仙馆所谓“双香”是指梅荷之香;因亭外近处有梅花,因亭外近处有梅花,山下有荷花池。冬天梅花暗香浮动;夏天,荷花香远益清。在这里能享受到这两种清香,好似仙人居住之所。荷花与梅的清香都是纯洁的,带给观赏者以高尚的享受并使心灵得到净化。
亭筑亭筑于环廊转折处,建筑形状如打开的折扇,因此得名。由扇亭内向外望去,近处有假山,山道蜿蜒水边,北望岛上紫藤架与石拱桥,东望是黄石假山“小赤壁”,池水在山下洞中穿过,好似一幅生计盎然的立体画卷。
文天祥碑亭出扇亭,沿高低起伏的长廊东行,可至半亭。此亭壁有文天祥草书诗碑:静虚群动息,身雅一心清;春色凭谁记,梅花插瓶座。整块诗碑高一点五米,宽零点七米,只见两行草书大字洋洋洒洒,跌宕生姿,笔断意连如飞如舞。由此几乎可以想象当时文天详运笔疾速,一气呵成的场面。
御碑亭一七七五年乾隆皇帝南巡游此园时作『游狮子林』御诗一首。后黄氏刻碑立石,以示皇帝临幸荣耀,留念后人,为园中古迹之一。文革中碑曾被毁,现碑文乃是文革之后按原有断碑拓片重刻,而碑座、碑顶为旧物。
修竹阁修竹阁飞跨池水之上,西连湖心岛,东通复廊,因此阁内南北墙上分别有砖额“通波”与“飞阁”。修竹南北不设墙,在阁内北望,可见小溪,蜿蜒于山间,曲折幽深,南望则见曲折、错落的石岸围住湖水一泓,似山中小湖,颇含野趣。
卧云室卧云室为假山环抱中的方形楼阁,从南面看,屋顶是横脊极短的歇山式;从北面看,楼阁向外凸出。报厦内是楼梯,报厦内是楼梯,报厦的屋顶是半个四方攒尖顶。两种形式连接在一起,造成奇特的外观,每层屋面内六只飞角,这种形制为它处所少见。
立雪堂一进立雪堂,可见一幅对联:苍松翠竹真佳容,明月清风是故人。这副对联反映了主人以松竹风月为友,脱俗超尘的情趣。 “立雪”指是北宋时扬时和游酢一起去向程颐请教,程正在午睡,两人就侍立等侯,这时下雪了,等程醒来看到他们时积雪已有一尺深了。
狮子林,素有“假山王国”之称。园中不仅多竹,而且多狻猊石。山中有太狮、少狮、吼狮、舞狮、醒狮、睡狮或蹲、或斗、或嬉不可胜数。而不可思议的整座群山,状如昆仑山,山脉纵横拔地而出,以隆起的狮子峰为主,山峦奔腾起伏朝四面八方蜿蜒伸展。第一路山脉自狮子峰起,向东北方向越棋盘洞,入地脉达小方厅北庭院花台假山,终于九狮峰。第二路山脉从狮子峰出发,朝西北方向循山间小道跨石梁至见山楼前隐入溪池。第三路山脉,狮子峰往南穿环廊墙到达立雪堂庭院假山。第四路由狮子峰起,山脉向西南流动,跨过飞虹小桥,委蛇往南,越武陵洞口沿西南方十二生肖假山池峰直达双香仙馆假山岩谷,终至骆驼峰。第五路山脉,狮子峰向西,亦跨飞虹小桥,继续往西行至西端假山群峭壁突然潜入山池绽达摩峰,渡飞瀑逆上四叠达飞瀑亭南面假山为最西端。五路山脉如蛟龙般伸至全园,开成了山环水绕的旖旎风光。狮子林假山另一个显著的特点就是是以小飞虹为界,大致可以分为东西两大部分。东假山环围卧云室而筑,地处高阜,有遇百年难逢滂沱大雨,也能一泄而干的特点,无水浸之患,被称为旱假山。飞虹桥西,假山临水而筑,谓水假山。山水相依,宛如天然图画。孔子曰:仁者爱山,智者乐水。到姑苏游狮子林乃仁、智者也。
南方多美景,小巧精致。
接下来就是虎丘被誉为“吴中第一名胜”的虎丘,又名海涌山、海涌峰、虎阜,位于苏州古城西北,距阊门3.5公里的郊外。虎丘海拔34.3米,占地约20公顷,山体为距今一亿五千万年的中生代侏罗纪时代喷发的岩浆凝结而成的流纹岩。远古时代,虎丘曾是海湾中的一座随着海潮时隐时现的小岛,历经沧海桑田的变迁,最终从海中涌出,成为孤立在平地上的山丘,人们便称它为海涌山。 “何年海涌来?霹雳破地脉,裂透千仞深,嵌空削苍壁。”宋人郑思肖的诗句形象地道出了虎丘的由来。如今虎丘虽已远离大海,人们依然能感受到海的踪影,海的信息。人们来到虎丘,未踏进头山门,就看到隔河照墙上嵌有“海涌流辉”四个大字;进山门后,一座石桥跨过环山河,桥被称作“海涌桥”;上山路旁的一些怪石,圆滑的石体是因为海浪冲刷而致;憨憨泉因为潜通大海,又被称作“海涌泉”;拥翠山庄月驾轩内立有清代学者钱大昕书写的“海涌峰”石刻。虎丘曾有过望海楼、海泉亭、海宴亭等胜景。在历代文人笔下,更可见虎丘与海的渊源,“海当亭两面,山在寺中心。”(白居易)“宝刹近城郭,峰从海涌来。”(顾瑛)“尝疑海上峰,涌起自天外。”(王鏊)
虎丘的人文历史可追溯到二千五百年前,和苏州古城一样历史悠久。相传,春秋时期,这里就是吴王阖闾的离宫所在。公元前496年,阖闾在吴越之战中负伤后死去,其子夫差把他的遗体葬在这里。据《史记》等书记载,当时征调十万军民施工,并使用大象运输,穿土凿池,积壤为丘;灵柩外套铜椁三重,池中灌注水银,以金凫玉雁随葬,并将阖闾生前喜爱的“扁诸”、“鱼肠”等三千柄宝剑一同秘藏于幽宫深处。据说葬经三日,金精化为白虎蹲其上,因号虎丘。 ”宋代苏州州学教授朱长文则认为,虎丘因形似蹲虎而得名,并说:“然观其岩壑之势,出于天成,疑先有是丘,而阖闾因之以葬也。 ”清乾隆帝弘历也表示赞同:“本来岩壑擅天成,虎踞偏称金气精。 ”相传,吴国灭亡后的数百年间,越王勾践、秦始皇、东吴孙权,曾先后来次探宝求剑,结果都一无所获,徒劳而返。
虎丘由帝王陵寝成为佛教名山和游览胜地始于六朝。东晋时,司徒王及其弟司空王珉各自在山中营建别墅,咸和二年(327年),双双舍宅为虎丘山寺,仍分两处,称东寺、西寺,刘宋高僧竺道生从北方来此讲经弘法,留下了“生公说法,顽石点头”的佳话和生公讲台、千人坐、点头石、白莲池等脍炙人口的古迹。六朝时的虎丘即已建有佛塔,陈代张正见、江整二人咏虎丘诗有“远看银台竦,洞塔耀山庄。”和“宝塔据高垄,经台镇岭头。”之句,可为佐证。这是虎丘见于记载的最早的塔,废毁已久。
结束南北朝分裂局面,使中国复归一统的隋文帝杨坚,笃信佛教,于仁寿年间(601年-604年)下诏各州郡建造舍利塔,并由“有司造样送往当州”,也就是附发了塔的样式,以便统一规制。于是,虎丘历史上便有了第二座塔,位于山顶东晋王琴台故址,不过,据古建筑专家刘敦桢考证,它只是一座方形的木塔,早已无有,决非保存至今的以砖结构为主的八角形塔。这一结论已是毋庸置疑的了。
到了唐代,为避唐高祖李渊祖父李虎名讳,虎丘一度改名武丘,寺名亦易为武丘报恩寺,仍分东西两寺。颜真卿诗有“不到东西寺,于今五十春。”之句。那时虎丘离城虽近,但无大路和河流可通,游人需从田间阡陌穿行,如遇雨天还要涉水方能抵达,交通极为不便。宝历元年(825年),五十四岁的白居易出任苏州刺吏。这位热爱苏州风物、对虎丘情有独钟的大诗人有感于此,便领导苏州百姓自阊门至虎丘开挖河道与运河贯通,沿河修筑塘路直达山前,又栽种桃李数千株,加以美化,并绕山开渠引水,形成环山溪。事后,诗人写有一首五律《武丘寺路》:“自开山寺路,水陆往来频,银勒牵骄马,花船载丽人芰荷生欲遍,桃李种仍新,好住河堤上,长留一道春。”虎丘山下溪流映带,碧波潺缓,远远望去恍若海上仙岛;从此水陆称便,游人络绎不绝。为纪念白居易功绩,后人称塘路为白公堤,即今山塘街,河为山塘河,皆长七里,号称“七里山塘”。此后一千一白多年间,山塘成为连结阊门与虎丘的唯一纽带,是从苏州城去虎丘的必经之路;既是阊门商市的延伸,又是虎丘风景名胜的前奏,历史上两者有着不可分割的关系,所以明清两代虎丘的多部山志无不将山塘包括在内,一并加以记述。
然而,当初白居易开河筑堤不到二十年,唐武宗李炎在位时,崇道辟佛,发动了一次大规模的灭佛运动,于会昌五年(845年)诏令没收寺院土地财产,毁坏佛寺佛像,强迫僧尼还俗,史称“会昌灭佛”。远离长安的苏州也未能幸免于难,建寺已五百余年的虎丘东西二寺当即被拆得片瓦无存。但过了不久,佛教又得到恢复。重建的虎丘山寺合二寺为一寺,并从山下迁移到山上,,逐步形成保留至今的依山而筑的格局。山下则另建东山庙和西山庙,以纪念舍宅为寺的王、王珉兄弟。五代时期,中原分争,江南一隅比较太平。当时苏州是吴越国钱氏政权统治下,仅次于都城杭州的重镇,国主钱第四子钱元、钱文奉父子治理苏州数十年,大事修建佛寺、构筑圆林。据记载钱元“每游虎丘山寺,前路引望已欣动颜色。比至,必规画修缮。”虎丘的寺院和胜迹在这一时期也得到了维修和发展。特别值得一提的是,根据现代修塔施工中,发现文物的文字纪年和塔的形制判断,虎丘现有的佛塔,就是五代最后一年后周显德六年(959年),亦即吴越国王钱弘在位的第十三年,至北宋建隆二年(961年)的建筑。建成后十七年,吴越国“纳土归宋”,苏州正式归入宋王朝的版图。
北宋至道年间(995-997年)苏州知州魏庠奏改虎丘山寺为云岩禅寺,由律宗改奉禅宗。景元年(1034年)诏以宋真宗赵恒御书三百卷副本藏于寺中,为此四年(1037年)特建御书阁。皇初(约1044年),又改禅寺为十方住持。此后常为禅僧挂锡之所。南宋绍兴初(约1131年),高僧绍隆到虎丘讲经,一时众僧云集,声名大振,遂形成禅宗临济宗的一个派别“虎丘派”。绍隆法师名重宇内,声闻海外,“法席鼎盛。东南大丛林号为'五山十刹'者,虎丘遂居其一。”绍隆于绍兴六年(1136年)圆寂坐化于虎丘。虎丘旧有隆祖塔院,在东山庙畔,昔时日本使者来华至苏,必定要朝拜隆祖塔,可见影响之大。宋代在山上创建的还有应梦幻观音殿(石观音殿)、转轮大藏殿、水陆堂、陈公楼(双井桥)、千顷云阁、和靖书院等。
元代至元四年(1338年)到至正四年(1344年)年间,云岩寺有过一次较大规模的修建,塔的维修也第一次见于记载,现存的二山门(断梁殿)即当时所建。同时修缮和改建的还有大佛殿、千佛阁、三大士殿、平远堂、小吴轩、花雨亭等建筑,并铸造巨钟一口,疏浚环山溪六千余尺。元末群雄并起,至正十六年(1356年)张士诚占领平江(苏州)割据称王。为保卫城池,选中水陆要冲的虎丘驻军布防,在疏浚环山溪的同时,沿溪修筑了一座环山城,将登临之人岁无虚日的名胜之区变成了介戒备森严的军事要害。一时“山上楼台山下城,朱旗夹道少人行。”(吕志学句)但虎丘土城在军事上并未发挥作用。至正二十六年(1366年),朱元璋派大将徐达、常遇春率军征讨张士诚,围攻孤城平江(苏州)达十个月之久。相传徐达的攻城指挥部就设在虎丘,而常遇春亦屯兵于虎丘,与张士诚军激战于山塘至阊门南北濠一带。
明代是虎丘历史上的多事之秋,曾三次发生火灾,毁而复建。第一次,洪武二十七年(1394年)“僧舍不戒于火,寺焚,延及浮图”。至永乐初(约403年)修塔,建大佛殿、文殊阁,十七年(1419年)至十九年建妙庄严阁、千佛阁、大悲阁、转轮大藏殿、天王殿、旃林选佛场等。第二次,宣德八年(1433年)“火复作于僧舍,浮图又及于灾,而加甚于昔焉。”距第一次灾后修复竣工仅十二年。巡抚侍郎周忱、知府况钟闻知云岩寺住持南邱立志复兴,率先以俸禄捐助,苏州官民纷纷施以财物。自正统二年(1437年)至景泰四年(1453年)约十五年间,先修复宝塔、重建大佛殿,而后构建敕赐藏经阁庋藏敕赐《藏经》、三大士殿、伽蓝殿、香积堂、海泉亭等。嘉靖万历和天启年间。在知府胡瓒宗等倡议和赞助下,又陆续修建了万佛阁(妙庄严阁)、西方殿、伽蓝殿,天王殿。千手观音殿、大悲阁、转轮大藏殿、千佛阁、悟石轩、和靖祠、五贤祠、申公祠,仰苏楼等,并再次修塔。但时隔不久,崇祯二年(1629年)第三次失火,大雄宝殿、万佛阁、方丈楼观,一夕而毁。十一年(1638年)至十三年(1640年),巡抚张国维捐俸重建大雄宝殿、千佛阁,并修塔。据刘敦祯教授考证,塔的第七层即当时改建。
清代,虎丘经历了一个盛极而衰的过程。虎丘最兴盛之时,为康熙至乾隆期间。康熙帝玄烨和乾隆帝弘历都曾六次南巡,每次下江南都要光临虎丘,并曾驻跸山上,有几次从浙江回京途经苏州还要重游虎丘。祖孙二人先后在虎丘题写匾额楹联数十处,吟诗不下二十余首。现今头山门所悬“虎阜禅寺”竖匾,就是玄烨的手笔。为此虎丘于康熙二十七年(1688年)至四十五年(1706年)先后建起了万岁楼、御碑亭、文昌阁,以及宏伟的行宫“含晖山馆”,接着又重修了大雄宝殿、千佛阁。乾隆十五年(1750年),再次全面修整,十九年(1754年)建千手观音殿、地藏殿,三十八年(1773年)修塔。当时山前山后轩榭亭台逶逦参差,多达五千零八十余间,共有胜景二百多处;白堤春泛、莲池清馥、可中玩月、海峰雪霁、风壑云泉、平林远野、石涧养鹤、书台松影、西溪环翠、小吴晚眺,号称“虎丘十景”。虎丘衰落之时,为咸丰十年(1860年)至同治二年(1863年)的兵火摧残。 1860年,太平天国忠王李修成自天京(南京)挥军东征,一路势如破竹,迅速逼近苏州,溃败的清军在城外枫桥、虎丘、山塘、上塘、下塘和南濠、北濠一带纵火,大火延烧三昼夜。 “山塘七里繁华梦,赢得姑苏一炬红”(俞平伯诗)被誉为“红尘中一二等风流之地(红楼梦第一回)的苏州阊门,繁华商市及虎丘、寒山寺等胜迹,旦夕之间化为废墟。1863年虎丘又成为太平军苏城保卫战的西北前哨阵地,曾在附近修筑防御工事。战后的虎丘,殿阁楼台仅存断壁颓垣,唯有破败的云岩寺塔、二山门。二仙亭和石幢兀立于荒烟蔓草中;危塔暮鸦,西风残照,人迹罕至,荒凉不堪。同治十年(1871年)起山寺殿宇才略有恢复,但因陋就简,规模已大不如前。光绪十年(1884年),状元洪钧、词人郑文焯等集资于憨憨泉坡地依山势创建拥翠山庄。辛亥革命后,1918年吴中名士金松岑、费仲深、汪鼎丞等募建冷香阁于拥翠山庄北,并于阁旁植红绿梅数百株,成为品茗赏梅胜地。此后十余年,又陆续修建了头山门、石观音殿、申公祠、三泉亭、致爽阁、可中亭诸胜。但八年抗战期间,胜迹失修,树木被砍,又出现了荒凉景象。
新中国建立以后,虎丘胜迹才真正开始全面修整。 1953年到1963年短短十年中,维修加固了疮痍满目、开裂欲倾的云岩寺塔,重修了二山门、大殿、千手观音殿、小武当、小武轩、百步趋、十八折、拥翠山庄、申公祠、五十三参、御碑亭、上山路、陈去病墓,重建了悟石轩、平远堂、花雨亭、通幽轩、玉兰山房,新建了东丘亭、放鹤亭、孙武子亭、涌泉亭、海涌桥,疏浚了剑池、第三泉、环山溪,在元末张士诚土城残基上修筑了环山路,并在保护古树的同时,大规模绿化,植树二万二千多株,山前山后满目苍翠,尽改往昔荒芜面貌。 1961年,云岩寺塔以及二山门,有国务院公布为第一批全国重点文物保护单位。可是,从1966年到1976年十年“文革”中,虎丘不但整修和建设陷于停顿,而且受到了人为的破坏,石刻、佛像、匾额、楹联、书画损失严重。七十年代后期起,虎丘又进入了一个加快步伐恢复发展的新时期。到1989年建国四十周年时,失修、破损、无存的建筑、石刻、匾联逐步得到维修保护和复原,重建了千顷云阁、五贤堂,新建了分翠亭、揽月榭、云在茶香、万家烟火等景点;1980年至1982年,新建“万景山庄”盆景园于东山庙、隆祖塔院遗址一带,荟萃苏派树桩盆景和水石盆景数千盆;1981年至1986年,对云岩寺塔的塔基和基础进行了加固,使这座倾斜已达2、34米的千年古塔转危为安;年以后,重修了二山门,重建了巢云廊、平远堂、养鹤涧、头山门两廊,疏通了第三泉经剑池、千人石、白莲池到养鹤涧的古水系,并将崎岖不平的环山石子路和山坡小径全部改铺成平坦的石板路。与此同时,大力载种竹、茶、樟、杉、松、柏、梅、桂、樱、枫、玉兰、银杏、石榴、枇杷、柿、枣、桔、栗、杜鹃等。如今,西麓的红梅、绿梅,东麓的樱花,后山的毛竹、杜鹃、白云茶,都已蔚然成林;人工培植的书带草、麦冬草和长春藤等也取代了以往山坡、路旁野生的杂草。春花、夏荫、秋果,冬翠,四时佳景清丽可人,千古名山生机盎然。
1998年,虎丘以其整洁优美的环境井然有序的管理和优良的服务,被评为十处全国文明风景旅游区之一。
2002年,苏州山市虎丘山风景区日前通过了质量管理体系和环境管理体系的国际认证。此前,风山景区已获“全国十大文明示范风景区”和国家旅游局确认的高等级“AAAA”景区等评定,此番通过质量管理体系和环境管理体系的国际认证,标志着该景区百尺竿头再上层楼,将从科学化过细管理和环境的可持续发展等多个方面进一步优化质量刷新形象。
二山门(断梁殿)
断梁殿,是虎丘二山门,1961年列为省级文物保护单位,建于元代,至今已有六百多年的历史。因脊椽由左右两段接合而成,且全殿不用金属构件作紧固,只用竹、木钉而闻名,是古建筑的宝贵遗产。它的外形结构是单檐歇山式,它的檐端轮廓,它是从中间两柱开始,向两侧逐渐升高,形成圆弧曲线,给人轻灵之感。
憨憨泉憨憨泉位于虎丘上山路西侧,相传,梁代天监中,神僧憨憨所凿,距今已1400余年。此井泉至今清冽甘淳,有“井底泉眼潜通海”之说。旧时,寺僧在此汲水,沏虎丘白云茶,以奉佳宾。
试剑石试剑石位于山路东侧,是虎丘山非常著名的一块石头,此石中裂如剑截。相传春秋时期吴王阖闾令干将莫邪铸剑,成而试之,劈开巨石。巨石旁另有一石,刻有“试剑石”三字,为宋吕升卿所题。
枕石相传,晋代著名高僧生公,就坐在这块石头上看经书,疲倦了就睡在这块石头上。这块石头又称“蜒蝣石”,因为它形如蜒蝣,而且以前这块石头有粘质,扔石子上去它能够粘住不下落。
万景山庄万景山庄,又称“盆景园”,位于虎丘东麓,为近年新辟。园内陈列有数百树桩、水石盆景精品,集苏派盆景艺术之大观。如首届中国盆景评比展览中荣获“特等奖”的《秦汉遗韵》桩景,荣获亚太地崐区盆景展银奖的《云蒸霞蔚》等。山庄占地25亩,园内地形起伏多变,松声塔影,景色优美,令无数盆景爱好者为之倾倒。
孙武子亭孙武练兵场位于千人石东,相传为春秋时期著名的军事家,被尊为“兵圣”的孙武在此操演吴宫宫女的场所,“三令五申”的成语就出于此处。在其旁筑有“孙武子亭”,由张爱萍题匾,并题:“孙子兵法,克敌制胜,娇娘习武,佳话流传”刻于碑上。
真娘墓古亭为“真娘墓”旁的纪念亭,真娘确有其人,原名姓胡,名瑞珍,北方人。能诗善歌,唐朝安史之乱的时候,被恶人骗买堕入妓院,老鸨强令真娘接客,真娘遂投环自尽。
冷香阁冷香阁位于拥翠山庄北面,是品茶观景的最佳埸所。在其庭中植梅三百株,每逢仲春,红苞绿萼,疏影暗香。阁之上下都是五楹,东、西、南三面环以廊,高爽幽静,别绕清趣。
第三泉第三泉位于千人石之西,深二丈许,壁间取苏东坡“铁花秀岩壁”句意,摩有“铁华岩”大字,相传“茶圣”陆羽曾在虎丘寓居并品评此泉为天下第三,岩间筑亭,为文人品茗雅集之所。
致爽阁致爽阁,又名“虎伏阁”,位于虎丘塔西南,为虎丘山之绝顶,因四山爽气,日夕西来而得名。阁外平台旷朗,微风扑面,在此远眺群山,胸襟舒畅,景色秀丽,特别是西南的狮子山,酷似一只蹲伏回望虎丘的雄狮,构成著名“狮子回首望虎丘”景观。阁内陈设一套极为珍贵的明式家具。
云岩寺塔云岩寺塔,俗称“虎丘塔”,是著名的“中国斜塔”、江南第一古塔,也是古城苏州的象征。该塔建于五代后周显德六年(959年),建成于宋建隆二年(961年)。至今已有一千多年的历史,八面七层,塔高47.7米,塔身最大倾角为3度59分,是全国第一批重点文物保护单位。自1982年来,每届深秋,成群苍鹭,聚来虎丘,栖息毛竹林梢,飞翔古塔周围,出现“万千鹭鸟伴古塔”的壮丽景观。
剑池剑池位于“千人石”上,“双吊桶”之下,《吴地记》曰:“阖闾葬其下,以剑为殉,故池也以剑为其名”,是虎丘最为神秘的地方。剑池崖左壁有篆文“剑池”两字,相传为晋代大书法家王羲之所书。右壁有北宋米芾所书“风壑云泉”四字,意思是侧耳听风,举目观岩,抬头观云,低头看流。写尽剑池风光,令人留连忘返。
千人石千人石位于虎丘中心,为天然形成的大盘石,由南向北倾斜,平坦如砥,气势雄伟,中有两岩石凸起,顶面平坦,四壁如削,实为罕见。站在千人石上环望四周,东南是松柏低窥,西北是轩阁迭连,近看剑池,仰望宝塔,镜界开朗,景色壮丽。
二仙亭始建于宋,清嘉庆年间重建。亭内石碑二方,分刻唐末道家吕洞宾,五代宋初道家陈抟二仙像及传记。
可中亭在千人石北,又名可月亭,取刘禹锡诗“一方明月可中亭”意。明清时为曲会聆歌赏月佳处悟石轩悟石轩旧为“得泉楼”、“万岁楼”。此轩正处虎丘正中高地,坐北朝南,凭栏眺望,虎丘诸胜,悉塑眼前。
白莲池白莲池,在生公讲台东,据《姑苏志》载:“生公说法时,池生千叶莲花,故名”。池中有石一方,叠于它石上,名“点头石”。清王宝文书“点头”二字。
五十三参在白莲池东,前有五十三级台阶,均由花岗石砌成,高峻而又宽阔,两侧石栏饰石狮三对,憨态可掬,以示灵威。台阶升至第二十七层,铺石加宽,以置香炉供作拜台。这五十三级台阶,取佛经中“五十三参,参参见佛”之意名“五十三参”。又称“走砌石”、“玲珑栈”。从下往上攀时,每登一级,均可瞻望到大雄宝殿内安坐的佛像,善男信女可一步一拜,以表虔诚。这也是佛教中的一种祭拜形式。
大佛殿大佛殿即为著名云岩寺佛殿,虎丘佛寺自东晋始建,经唐、宋、元、明、清至今已有1600多年历史。最盛时有寺院几十处。
御碑亭宋时称“御书阁”。元时为“妙庄严阁”,后毁于火。清康熙、乾隆两帝南巡,皆驻虎丘山,均留有墨迹,就此处建御碑亭。现亭中有御碑三块,分别是康熙、乾隆的御制。
千顷云在万家烟火西,取苏轼“云水丽千顷”句为名。
五贤堂出大雄宝殿东院门,紧挨其壁即五贤堂。为纪念唐代韦应物、白居易、刘禹锡,宋代王禹、苏轼五位古代贤明而建。五位贤者,四位曾任职于苏州,一位晚年寓居于苏州,和苏州结下了不解之缘。五贤堂硬山式屋顶,五架屋,粉墙黛瓦,长方形的门上嵌“旷代风流”四字砖额,建筑形制十分简朴,深处于大雄宝殿、小吴轩两个高敞的建筑之间,更显其庄严肃穆。
平远堂取“平林远野”之意。堂前筑平台,临崖砌石岸石阶,高愈丈。下临养鹤涧,景色殊胜。
小吴轩“小吴轩”取孔子“登泰山而小鲁”之意为名。苏东坡游山到此曾说“登泰山望小鲁,登虎丘望小吴”。
养鹤涧在平远堂下,万景山庄后。恢复后的养鹤涧,在其西端叠一黄石峭壁,源自第三泉的水系经剑池、白莲池,流到这里,从峭壁上直泻而下,形成一哗哗作响的瀑布其下以黄石筑石涧,蜿蜒曲折百余米,一直延至东部环山路。瀑布流经石涧,形成涓涓细流,潺潺东去。涧两侧的岸坡上,种满各种植物,春夏秋冬四季皆宜,形成一幅四季变幻、有声有色的“塔影山涧”图。
涌泉亭相传萧梁天监中高僧惠响“凿石为井,泉涌三丈”,故筑“涌泉亭”。
揽月榭从环山路沿石径而下,一榭面南临水而筑,浅浅的歇山式屋顶,飞檐微翘,其下矩行台基,四角立石柱全部开畅,唯北面中间建一墙,开一方形空窗,把岸边翠叶构窗景。榭的东、南、西三面贴水附建回廊,设短栏。通敞的构筑,广收后山葱翠,似一艘画舫,停靠岸边。四周绿意染目怡神。夜晚月落水中,水波吹破明月,使人不禁伸手揽月,故名其“揽月榭”。
小武当相传此景是春秋时吴王移自楚国武当山胜景,故称“小武当”。是虎丘最古的遗迹。此处,前为一椭圆形的池塘,上筑小桥,非常古拙,“中和桥”,过桥是一座青石牌坊,三门四柱,已是旧石残柱,柱上雕有蛟龙祥云,坊上石梁刻双狮戏球,坊额“吴分楚胜”依稀可辨。武当山在湖北省,旧属楚国,故称其为吴地的楚国胜景。
通幽轩原为宋尹和靖故址。后改建为“陆羽楼”,楼毁。清嘉庆时改为“牛马王庙”。旧时每逢农历除夕,欠债人到此躲债而得名“赖债庙”。
玉兰山房因四周遍植玉兰而得名。据记载旧时曾有玉兰一株,甚古,名冠吴中,相传南宋时从闽移植于此。清同光年间犹存,后毁。解放后重建此房并补植玉兰,早春时含苞欲放,景致幽雅秀美,恬静舒适。
拥翠山庄著名的拥翠山庄位于虎丘二山门内西侧,总平面呈长方形,占地一亩余,此园依山筑屋, 层造而上,各建筑之间点缀峰石花木,有小园林之胜。山庄结合地形,巧借园外景物,布局灵活,视野开阔。在此可仰视虎丘塔,远眺狮子山,俯览虎丘山麓一带秀丽风景,别有情趣。
虎丘不同于一般的苏州园林
晚上去了观前街看夜景,这里就象上海的南京路步行街,路上有很多专卖店,周围有好多的百年老店(饭店),虽然不能和上海南京路相提并论,不过还是值得一去的。晚上借宿海龙王洗浴中心。
第二天又要出发,直奔寒山寺。
以一首诗而闻名中外的寺庙,要数苏州寒山寺。唐朝诗人张继写了一首《枫桥夜泊》:“月落乌啼霜满天,江枫渔火对愁眠。姑苏城外寒山寺,夜半钟声到客船”。很多到苏州游览的人,都把寒山寺列入日程,以便亲自体验一下诗中的意境。寒山寺在苏州城西5公里外的枫桥镇,始建于梁,原名“妙利普明塔院”。据传,因唐代高僧寒山曾在寺内主持,故名寒山寺。 1000多年内寒山寺先后5次遭到火毁(一说是7次),最后一次重建是清代光绪年间。历史上寒山寺曾是我国十大名寺之一。寺内古迹甚多,有张继《枫桥夜泊》诗的石刻碑文,寒山、拾得的石刻像,文徵明、唐寅所书碑文残片等。寒山寺最著名的是那口钟已流落到日本,但不知下落,现在的钟是1906年日本人士募铸的。很多日本人士对寒山寺很熟悉,能背诵《枫桥夜泊》诗。寒山寺每年都要接待成千上万的日本旅游者。其中许多日本游客专到寒山寺去度过除夕之夜,聆听寒山寺的钟声,他们认为,枫桥在辞旧迎新之际,听到寒山寺的钟声,能消灾去祸。听完钟声,再吃碗面条,新的一年就万事如意了。当然,他们更希望能到钟楼上亲自撞一下钟,因为这样就更能够得到上苍的保佑。
寺庙的规模比较大,我们常说:“山不在高,有仙则名;水不在深,有龙则灵。”寒山寺应该是比较显赫的寺庙吧!有机会可以看一看,不过我很遗憾,没有看到罗汉堂(走路错过了),下次再去吧。枫桥景区没有什么意思,除了一座枫桥以外没有其他的东西,还是不去为妙。
之后立即去留园。
留园位于阊门外留园路79号。留园始建于明代。万历二十一年太仆寺少卿徐泰时罢官归里后,筑东园和西园。西园后舍作佛寺,即今戒幢律寺,东园即今留园前身。当时东园杂莳花竹,垒有假山,其中“太湖石一座,名瑞云峰,高三丈余,妍巧甲于江南”,相传为朱勉采凿,乃北宋“花石纲”遗物。乾隆四十四年,瑞云峰被移入织造府行宫。徐泰时去世后,东园渐废。五十九年,园归刘恕,经五年修复和扩建,于嘉庆三年告竣。园名“寒碧庄”,又名“花步小筑”,俗称“刘园”。园中有奇石十二峰,名奎宿、玉女、箬帽、青芝、累黍、一云、印月、猕猴、鸡冠、拂袖、仙掌、干霄,名重一时。其后,经咸丰更申战乱,园渐荒芜。
同治十二年,盛康购得此园,大加修治,并改“刘园”为“留园”,谐其音而取“长留天地间”之意,留园之名始于此。盛氏留园泉石之胜,草木之美,亭榭之幽深,盛誉一时;山石之奇,以冠云峰为最。辛亥革命后,盛康之子盛宣怀流亡日本,园遂衰败。 1927年,北伐军二十一师司令部曾驻此园。 40年代,侵华日军和国命党军队先后在此饲养军马,门窗挂落破坏殆尽,残垣断壁,几成废墟。 1953年,人民政府拨款对留园进行抢修,1954年元旦开放,供人游览。
留园现有面积2.331万平方米,建筑占全园面积1/3,以建筑空间处理精湛著称。厅堂在苏州诸园中最为宏敞华丽,大而能精,工不伤雕。园大致可分为中、东、北、西四部分,园南有祠堂与住宅两路三进,前厅后楼,颇高敞。园中部系原“寒碧庄”基础,虽有局部改观,仍不失为全园精华,西为山池,环以楼阁,贵以长廊,峰峦回抱,明洁清幽;东为厅堂,参以轩斋,间列峰石,重门叠户,曲折多变。东、北、西三部分是光绪年间扩建。东部主要是一组以突出冠云峰为主的建筑群。北部旧构多毁,现辟有盆景园。西部以土石假山为主,漫山枫林,平阜曲水。总揽全园,嘉树奇卉,怪石清流,凉台馆,风亭月榭,高矮迤俪,宛转相续。整个园景以长廊为脉络,通幽度壑,随形而变,循廊而观,处处有景。
园中精物甚多,有古木交柯、绿荫、明瑟楼、涵碧山房、闻木樨香轩、可亭、远翠阁、汲古得绠处、清风池馆、西楼、曲溪楼、濠濮亭、五峰仙馆、环我读书处、揖峰轩、林泉耆硕之馆、佳晴喜雨快雪之亭、冠云峰、伫云庵、冠云亭、冠云楼、至乐亭、舒啸亭、活泼泼地等。清代学者俞樾撰有《留园记》,现刻于门厅木屏上。
留园之后就是网狮园了。
网师园,地处苏州古城东南隅阔家头巷,被誉为苏州园林之“小园极则”,堪称中国园林以少胜多的典范。 1982年被国务院列为全国重点文物保护单位。 1997年12月被联合国教科文组织列入《世界文化遗产名录》。
网师园的造园历史可追溯至八百年前。南宋淳熙初年,吏部侍郎史正志于此建万卷堂,名其花圃为渔隐,植牡丹五百株。清乾隆年间,光禄寺少卿宋宗元在万卷堂故址,营造别业,为奉母养亲之所,始名网师园,内有十二景。乾隆末,园为瞿远春购得,增建亭宇,叠石种树,由于瞿远春的巧为运思,使网师园“地只数亩,而有纡回不尽之致;居虽近廛,而有云水相忘之乐。”至今网师园尚总体保持着瞿氏当年造园的结构与风格。同治年间,园归李鸿裔,因与宋代名园沧浪亭相近,李氏自称“苏邻”,更园名为“苏邻小筑”。 1917年,张作霖购此园,改名为“逸园”。 1940年,园为文物鉴赏家何亚农买下,并对此进行全面整修,悉从旧规,并复网师旧名。 1950年何氏后人将园献给人民政府。 1958年,网师园再经整修后对游人开放。
网师园是古代苏州世家宅园相连布局的典型,东宅西园,有序结合。即以池水为中心,由东部住宅区、南部宴乐区、中部环池区、西部内园殿春簃和北部书房区等五部分组成。全园布局外形整齐均衡,内部又因景划区,境界各异。园中部山水景物区,突出以水为中心的主题。水面聚而不分,池西北石板曲桥,低矮贴水,东南引静桥微微拱露。环池一周叠筑黄石假山高下参差,曲折多变,使池面有水广波延和源头不尽之意。园内建筑以造型秀丽,精致小巧见长,尤其是池周的亭阁,有小、低、透的特点,内部家具装饰也精美多致。
网师园意谓“渔父钓叟之园”,园内的山水布置和景点题名蕴含着浓郁的隐逸气息。全园面积仅8亩多,做到了感觉宽绰而不显局促,主题突出,布局紧凑,小巧玲珑,清秀典雅,成功地运用比例陪称关系和对比手法,获得较好的艺术效果,是苏州中型古典园林的代表作品。
买了两张黄牛党的火车票(一定要提前买车票呀),回到上海。两天的苏州之行让人感到疲劳,收获很大。原来以为苏州园林就是一个大的公园,现在才知道苏州园林有很多的小园子组成苏州园林。有机会去苏州不可不去苏州园林。
Author: zzzsssccc